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(Topic ID: 46621)

TZ has a bad br5 bridge rectifier and blows f116 fuse.


By PinballHog

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by ChrisHibler
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

My TZ started blowing F116 fuse this morning, and the display only has vertical lines. I tested br5 bridge rectifier and it tested bad. Ive noticed since I've had the pinball that the display had a slight buzz in attract mode. I thought it might just do that because of the pinballs age. Is that correct? I had a brand new display I put on my taf, so I put it on the tz. The display read check fuses f115, f116, j112 & opto 12v supply. The new display also had a slight buzz as well. My question is does the bad br5 have anything to do with the display? The original display on the tz was working last night when I played. The only thing was the slight buzz in attract mode like I said. It also had 1 small dot out in the upper right, this was only noticeable if the screen was full. I'm going to replace the br5 that must have blown this morning when I booted the game, but should I look for somthing else that might have caused the br5 to blow? Should the old display work after I replace the br5? Is there anything i can do about the buzz? I didnt know if the new displays uses less volts and that is why the new one works and the old one just has vertical lines. Should I replace the c30 capacitor? I don't think I can test the capacitor with my meter, or I don't know how to if you can. I hope I'm making since lol. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

#2 7 years ago

I'm going to say that no, fixing br5 will not fix the display. You may as well replace the associated cap while you replace the bridge rect. Since you put a new display into the game and it fired up and showed picture, if say you need a new display also. The plasmas are plasmas. They all use the same power so no, the new one will not use less, unless you get an LCD panel like colordmd or led like xpin. Start by replacing br5 and the cap. Then put in a new Dmd and test. That's where I'd go.

#3 7 years ago

Yes, replace the associated capacitor, which IIRC is in fact C30.

I haven't done all the research on this, but if you are referring to vertical bars, missing 12V has caused that on my TZ. I'm theorizing that one of the dot manufacturers requires 12V but the other does not.

When you remove C30, be very careful. Through holes can easily be pulled. If pulled either use a solder stitch to fix or (gasp), run jumpers.
--
Chris Hibler

#4 7 years ago

I've never changed out a cap. Sounds like it just pops off? Do I not need to unsolder it from the back of the board? Is there anything I can do about the display buzzing? I wouldn't think the display would just go out overnight. I might be wrong, but you would have thought I would have seen signs of fading or somthing. I guess the br5 can go out overnight without any warning? Can I test the caps with a reg. meter, or or any other way?

#5 7 years ago

It sounds like you would be better off sending the board to a pro.
Caps do no just snap out. There is a technique to get them out, along with experience.
You don't want to hack the board.

Do you have vertical lines or bars?

You can't test the cap without an expensive piece of equipment.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#6 7 years ago

Wide bars. I've done a lot of work on boards, just never have replaced a cap.

#7 7 years ago

OK. The wide bars are lack of 12V to the display.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

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