(Topic ID: 235373)

TZ Ground Short Row 1 - Battery Issue?

By girm100

5 years ago



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#1 5 years ago

I am having an issue where my TZ says "GND SHORT ROW 1 IS STUCK CLOSED".
Over the past few weeks, the TZ was rebooting when both flippers were hit. As a bandaid fix, reseating J114 and J210 would buy me some time. Yesterday it happened and when I rebooted, I got the noted error. Read the related forums and trying reseating and starting with certain connectors unplugged with no success.
I noticed that there was some minor corrosion on one of the batteries. Mostly localized to one spot and no apparent leakage beyond the battery. I replaced the batteries and it booted with "Factory Settings Restored / High Scores Reset" without any ability to start a game or enter test/audit. Rebooted and the "Short Row 1" message returns.
Not being the best with my tech skills, I'm wondering where the best place to start is to tackle the issue.
Thanks

#2 5 years ago

Far as resetting, sometimes reseating J101 and J102 help as well. But if continues, you liikely need to repin the J101, J114, J210 and the male header connector as well.

Far as the battery corrosion is concerned, please post a picture of the MPU board. Sometimes it is tough knowing/seeing the corrosion. I personally use NVRAM to get rid of batteries forever. Lithium batteries are the next best thing over using alkaline batteries.

"GND SHORT ROW 1 IS STUCK CLOSED"

Quoted from girm100:

without any ability to start a game or enter test/audit. Rebooted and the "Short Row 1" message returns.

This is a sign that you may have lost +12V digital.
Can you verify LED1 is lit on your power driver board?
Better yet, Can you test the voltages on the power driver board, especially at TP3 (LED1) to see if 12v is there. If LED1 is not lit, then F114 might be blown.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#LEDs_and_test_points_on_WPC-089_Power.2FDriver_Boards

#3 5 years ago

Thanks for the reply.
I don't have the tools for testing voltage on hand but have access to one. I'll try to get my buddy to come by tomorrow.
As for right now, the LED1 bulb is lit although it is dimmer than the others on the board (not sure if that matters). I've attached a photo for what its worth.
Also attached a photo of the battery damage. Mostly crystallization on the battery that I wiped off the contacts on the board. Not sure what angles or areas are best to decipher corrosion damage.
Unfortunately I also don't have a F114 replacement fuse lying around. Are there any "non-startup-critical" fuses that I could swap in just to test it out? I'm not a pro but I'm guessing all the fuses probably need to be in place.
Any further help would be much appreciated!

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#4 5 years ago

Testing the voltages on the driver board would be best. I linked testing on post 2.

Can you get a shot of the parts directly under the battery holder? Fumes tend to damage there.

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from girm100:

Unfortunately I also don't have a F114 replacement fuse lying around. Are there any "non-startup-critical" fuses that I could swap in just to test it out? I'm not a pro but I'm guessing all the fuses probably need to be in place.

F114 is for the lamp matrix. That would indicate that all of your controlled lamps are out. It's 8A/SB but you can (in a pinch) take F101 and F102 on a Fliptronic-II machine (which your TZ is). F101 and F102 should be 3A/SB and while it's not the correct value it will be under-fused which is acceptable (to use in a pinch for shorted wiring test purposes).

#6 5 years ago

This is the best I could do for a shot under the battery holder.
I'll give the F101 swap a try to see if there's any noticable change.

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#7 5 years ago

There has been some work done to the MPU below the battery holder, but at least there is no corrosion.

Do you have any other WPC games?

#8 5 years ago

Nope this is my one and only pin.
I'm not surprised there was some work done. I did get this machine from a guy who has a reputation for making some less than quality hacks to his machines.
That said, I have owned this machine for about 8 years and it has been running pretty consistently during that time.
Did the fuse swap with no noticeable differences.
Unless you've got any other ideas for me to try, for the time being we'll have to wait until I can get the voltages checked.

#9 5 years ago

I've had the same problem. The mechanic replaced the voltage regulator because he blew the regulator. He replaced it with the wrong voltage, I couldn't open a test menu of do anything. After I found that out I replaced it and all the failures were gone. So check your voltage at the test pins.

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