(Topic ID: 86590)

TZ GI OCD (omg wtfbbq etc)

By neurokinetik

10 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by andre060
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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ClockLEDs.jpg
#1 10 years ago

Just got my GI OCD board from LED OCD installed, and have had a chance to play around with it some. It is installed in a TZ. I really had no idea how much I was missing until I installed this board!

Most of the experience has been positive, but the choice of LEDs used in the GI will have a big impact on your experience.

First, it appears that my choice of using the PinballLife premium ghostbuster frosted dome LEDs for the GI may not have been the best choice (they were installed before I even knew about this upgrade board). The non-ghosting nature means that they start to flicker or shut off when you get them too dim. I'm finding that 5% gives flickering, anything below that is pretty much totally off. The backbox LEDs are all single-LED and they seem to respond better at the lower levels. However, I wanted warm white for the playfield GI, and I found that the PinballLife single LEDs were all too greenish for my tastes. The ghostbuster warm whites are much closer to the tone you get with an incandescent.

Next issue that I ran into is the clock. I've had a PinballLizard LED board in my clock since 2002. It uses four SMD LEDs. Unfortunately, they are DC, and as pointed out in the GI OCD instructions, you may have to reverse polarity in any DC LEDs you are using. Of course, the clock LEDs are all the wrong polarity, which meant I had to remove them and resolder them in the opposite configuration. Would not have been a terribly big deal except I ended up lifting the pad on the last LED (it is ALWAYS the last one that has a problem. ALWAYS.) I was unable to hack anything together quickly to attach that last LED so I decided to put in a spare ghostbuster remote LED into its place. Of course, the color and brightness is not even close to a match. I've never liked the cool white that the PinballLizard board gave, it didn't match at all with the rest of the lights, especially when they were incandescent. Seeing it with the warm white in there looks much nicer, and matches the rest of the GI. So I guess I'd like to know what others have been using in their TZ clocks? I'm about to dissect a PinballLife quad warm white, and solder in its individual LEDs into the normal PinballLizard locations (after I create some semblance of a new pad for the one I lifted). I think that will work perfect here.

Speaking of the clock, that is one place where the GI OCD really makes a huge difference. I've been used to seeing my clock blink on and off during clock chaos, but with the GI OCD, you get a "pulsing" effect that is way cooler, and probably is what it used to do when it was using normal lamps. It's been so long since I've seen one with lamps that I forgot.

#2 10 years ago

Here is a video showing the difference. The multiball start and jackpot are just a couple of the big improvements. The game likes to dim the GI at certain times to make the flashers more dramatic.

#3 10 years ago

Here is a second video showing the GI OCD board in action. This is a before and after that shows how the clock looked before I installed the board, and after. I also fixed the LEDs in the clock, replacing all of them with PinballLife frosted single cool whites (because that was the only type that I had a matched set of four of on hand). They are actually warmer than the SMDs that came with the PinballLizard board, so I am happy that I achieved the look I was looking for. The camera makes them look much more blue than they really are (they actually look pretty close to incandescent in color tone in reality).

#4 10 years ago

Now all you need is LED OCD to clean up the inserts.

#5 10 years ago

The TZ clock was one of the things that I had reservations about. I knew people would likely run into issues with it, and it's a pain to have to open. My own clock is still using the original board, but I had installed the Pinbits LED kit in it a long time ago. Mine were reversed polarity as well, and when I went in to fix mine, I pulled new LEDs off of a couple of Cointaker Frosted bulbs.

Another guy using a GI OCD in TZ said his clock is using Ingo's clock board, and I don't think he had any issues with the polarity.

#6 10 years ago

Nope, no issues with Ingo's board, but they're all socketed anyway.

#7 10 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Now all you need is LED OCD to clean up the inserts.

Yep, that is next, though the only cleaning up needed is the flickering, as I have no ghosting due to the LED choice.

Here is a pic showing the clock board with the new LEDs installed.

Post edited by neurokinetik: moar info, added pic

ClockLEDs.jpgClockLEDs.jpg
#8 10 years ago
Quoted from herg:

The TZ clock was one of the things that I had reservations about. I knew people would likely run into issues with it, and it's a pain to have to open. My own clock is still using the original board, but I had installed the Pinbits LED kit in it a long time ago. Mine were reversed polarity as well, and when I went in to fix mine, I pulled new LEDs off of a couple of Cointaker Frosted bulbs.
Another guy using a GI OCD in TZ said his clock is using Ingo's clock board, and I don't think he had any issues with the polarity.

Quoted from kevinleedrum:

Nope, no issues with Ingo's board, but they're all socketed anyway.

Yep ... my board is fully compatible with GI OCD, there has nothing to be changed; the GI on my board is fully rectified.

- Ingo

#9 10 years ago

I'm particularly susceptible to flicker which makes me wonder for the actual GI's that light the play-field if I should use the non-ghosting type? I have an STTNG so GI OCD for the shields is something I'm looking forward to (and, likewise, an LED OCD).

#10 10 years ago
Quoted from m00dawg:

I'm particularly susceptible to flicker which makes me wonder for the actual GI's that light the play-field if I should use the non-ghosting type? I have an STTNG so GI OCD for the shields is something I'm looking forward to (and, likewise, an LED OCD).

Keep in mind that non-ghosting LEDs only prevent ghosting (which is little flickering that occurs when the bulb should be completely off). Such non-ghosting LEDs don't solve the core problems I have with LEDs (in games not designed for them), which is that they

1) Cause the game to lose it's ligh effects because there is no variation in brightness. The LED is either off or at 100% brightness
2) Depending on the game, it may quickly cycle between on and off when the game is trying to have the bulb be "dim". This causes very annoying flicking (to me). This isn't solved by non-ghosting LEDs.

From your post, I suspect you my be intolerant of these conditions much like I am... and non-ghosting bulbs will not fix it.

#11 10 years ago
Quoted from altan:

Keep in mind that non-ghosting LEDs only prevent ghosting (which is little flickering that occurs when the bulb should be completely off). Such non-ghosting LEDs don't solve the core problems I have with LEDs (in games not designed for them), which is that they
1) Cause the game to lose it's ligh effects because there is no variation in brightness. The LED is either off or at 100% brightness
2) Depending on the game, it may quickly cycle between on and off when the game is trying to have the bulb be "dim". This causes very annoying flicking (to me). This isn't solved by non-ghosting LEDs.
From your post, I suspect you my be intolerant of these conditions much like I am... and non-ghosting bulbs will not fix it.

Which is what GI OCD and LED OCD do fix.

8 years later
#12 1 year ago

Anyone know if GI OCD is compatible with the Caspers Electronics clock board?

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