(Topic ID: 182422)

TZ clock won't go in reverse- SOLVED!

By alveolus

7 years ago


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  • 74 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by altan
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#48 7 years ago
Quoted from alveolus:

Update:
It turns out I was burned by 2 bad boards, but it wasn't the 8 driver boards.
Instead it would appear that my brand new Homepin motor interface board is also bad.
I swapped in my 8 driver board into the TZ at CJs and it worked fine. Then I swapped the Homepin board in and the identical problem occurred.
homepin Do you think This is an easy fix or do I need to get a replacement?

Doesn´t the homepin baord have 2 test switches, where you can test the directions???

#50 7 years ago

Means, when you press first button, motor turn CW and if you press the other button motor turns CCW, correct??

#52 7 years ago

And you also tested the voltages on the homepin board at the TPs for +5V and +12V? Are these voltages present and OK, if yes, we will do another test ....

#54 7 years ago

OK, we next ground the 2 inputs separately.

Therefore you should build a short "testcable" (eg. a wire with an alligator clip or so to clip it to a good ground point), one side connected to GROUND (somewhere) and with the other end of the testcable you do the following:

1.
connect to Input DIR1 (you can e.g. put the wire to banded side of Diode D2) - Motor should turn CW

2.
connect to Input DIR2 (you can e.g. put the wire to banded side of Diode D3) - Motor should turn CWW

Do NOT do this test, while the clock test menu is running. And be careful, not to cause a short.

Post the results, what happens,

1.
when you ground DIR1

2.
when you ground DIR2

#57 7 years ago

The purpose of the test buttons is the same. But as I do not have the schematics of the homepin-board and I do ot know, how he wired his test buttons, we do it this way. If homepins testbuttons ground behind the optocouplers, we cannot test, if the optocouplers are OK.

Using my way and motor turns cw and ccw, the homepin board is OK, if not, we can identify, if one of the optocouplers on the board is bad.

#66 7 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

The color code indicates indeed a 10 ‎Ω resistor (same as R5) . That will take out the ir-LED inside U1 in a very short time.
Replacement of both components is needed.

You eagle-eye

Indeed, both resistors have the wrong value.

Replacement of both resistors and at least U1 optocoupler is needed. It seems, that U2 is still alive.

By the way: R3, R7 + R8 are silkscreened 2K7, but installed are 2K6, but this should not matter in this application.

wrong resistors (resized).JPGwrong resistors (resized).JPG

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