(Topic ID: 41355)

[SOLVED] TZ clock stops in Clock Chaos

By cogito

11 years ago


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  • 29 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by cogito
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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#1 11 years ago

Hi everyone, I was hoping someone might help me with the following problem:

I'm working on a mostly functional twilight zone, and my clock is showing some strange behaviour. It is completely functional in every test and mode in the game, except for Clock Chaos. When I reach Clock Chaos, the call out plays and runs on the dmd, while the clock moves counterclockwise into the 6:00 position. However, the clock stops moving as soon as the call out finishes, pointing to roughly 6:55. As soon as it stops, the credit dot appears, and the clock stays dead until the end of the 3-ball game. When I interrupt the game by starting up the diagnostic menu I get the "clock is broken" message. Running the clock test shows no malfunctioning optos, and after one test the credit dot disappears again and the clock works normally. Also, simply starting a new game after the "clock chaos" problem game resets the clock, and everything functions as normal until I hit the next clock chaos.

I'm running rom L-4, and have recently installed a replacement clock board (Ingo Kramer's, which I'm very happy with). Since my old clock board was not functioning, I don't know if this behaviour was already present before I replaced the board. I don't think Ingo's board's the cause, primarily because the problem is so specific! I was wondering if you have heard of similar stories? I browsed the pinside site and I found one person with the same problem, but unfortunately he hasn't solved the problem so far.

Do you happen to have any advice? Thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Nico

#2 11 years ago

Bump. Ideas, anyone?

#3 11 years ago

You have a clock error. One of the interrupters is not breaking an opto, or has been making contact and has some cracked solder joints.

Sometimes the hands are not tight enough to the gears, and the minute hand does not break it's optos. I had to put another thin washer in mine before the clip.

It's a little pain in the ass that clock. I heard it was left out of FH because of this.

#4 11 years ago

I just noticed an interesting tidbit. When testing the clock in fast forward, all the minute optos get tripped, indicated by the test beep and the cross appearing in the appropriate opto checkbox. However, in fast reverse, the 15 minute opto doesn't show the cross when the minute hand passes. The test beep's there though. I'll try adjusting that opto slightly and see if that helps. The fact that I have one of Ingo's most boards makes me seriously doubt that it's a cracked solder joint. Ingo knows his stuff.

#5 11 years ago

Nico - everything can be, also a cold solder joint. If it is so, the cold solder joint can only be at OPTO1. Look carefully at the 4 solder points on the back of the PCB, if the solder point are good.

BUT - I do not believe, that there is a cold solder joint.

Your problem is mysterious, I never heard of that.

What do the diagnostic LEDs on the board say, especially what does LED1 show, when the minute hand passes through OPTO1? It must go off, when the minute hand passes through. If it goes off, the fault is not on the board, but elsewhere "outside" the board. If it does not go off, the OPTO might be bad (it would be the first time for one of my boards), or the OPTO has bad contact in the socket (take the opto out 2 times and in again) or nethertheless a bad solder joint.

But I suppose, that there is some hardware-misalignment with your minute hand or the minute hand is worn out.

Please see this site:
http://pin-logic.com/tz_clock_fix.htm

Please keep me/us informed, the problem is "interesting".

-Ingo TZ-Clock_fault_Nico.JPGTZ-Clock_fault_Nico.JPG

#6 11 years ago

I wonder if this is what happened to me... I've never had a clock issue, but after a game earlier this week I noticed the credit dot and test report said "clock is broken". I just did a quick clock test and it was fine after that, credit removed, attraction mode functioned perfectly, but haven't played it much since then.

#7 11 years ago

Ingo, excellent suggestion. As soon as I get back to my machine I'll check the diagnostic LEDs, which I had turned off until this point. I'll keep everyone posted.

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from cogito:

Ingo, excellent suggestion. As soon as I get back to my machine I'll check the diagnostic LEDs, which I had turned off until this point. I'll keep everyone posted.

For this reason, the diagnostic LEDs are there
Do not put in the resistor network the wrong way, the white dot on the resistor network (Pin1) MUST notch with the silkscreened 1 on the board (see instructions on my website)!!!!!!!

-Ingo

PS.:
Here is an excellent write-up, of "How to make Twilight Zone´s clock to work smooth without the "crappy" noise". See in the middle of the site.
http://www.pinballark.com/especial.html

#9 11 years ago
Quoted from german-pinball:

What do the diagnostic LEDs on the board say, especially what does LED1 show, when the minute hand passes through OPTO1? It must go off, when the minute hand passes through. If it goes off, the fault is not on the board, but elsewhere "outside" the board.

I just checked, and the diagnostic LEDs do indeed go out. So, it's safe to say the board is functioning properly. I was wondering, could the problem be caused by the black hour opto interrupting cogwheel not being mounted in it's correct orientation? Because to my knowledge, Clock chaos is the only mode where the clock reverses into the start position, which is 6 instead of the other modes' 12 o'clock. I consulted the manual, and I think my cogs are properly aligned.
In the test menu, the clock advances an hour when the minute hand passes over the 4. Could other TZ owners confirm that this is how the clock is supposed to work?

#10 11 years ago
Quoted from cogito:

I just checked, and the diagnostic LEDs do indeed go out. So, it's safe to say the board is functioning properly. I was wondering, could the problem be caused by the black hour opto interrupting cogwheel not being mounted in it's correct orientation? Because to my knowledge, Clock chaos is the only mode where the clock reverses into the start position, which is 6 instead of the other modes' 12 o'clock. I consulted the manual, and I think my cogs are properly aligned.
In the test menu, the clock advances an hour when the minute hand passes over the 4. Could other TZ owners confirm that this is how the clock is supposed to work?

Look on my website, go to TZ-Clock-PCB and then click on the french flag. There are at the end some (bad) fotos, of how the black hour interrupting wheel must be installed.

I googled a bit ... and yes, the cpu can be confused, if the big black hour hand gear
is not installed correctly. Look at the wonderful site of Dr. Ed Cheung and look for the following term "Reassembling the TZ clock gears":
http://www.edcheung.com/album/album08/pinball/tz.htm

-Ingo

#11 11 years ago

Well, this was an anticlimactic evening. As I was uncoupling the clock from the playfield to check the black gear position, I noticed a glaring assembly mistake that I never noticed. The entire backplate assembly (back plastic with motor, and gears) was mounted 90 degrees counterclockwise! Seriously, this TZ apparently has been mucked about with quite a bit. Excited that I might have found the cause of my problem (and ashamed that it took me so long to notice), I assembled the clock correctly (according to your pictures, Ingo). However, upon hitting my first clock chaos the problem once again reared its ugly head. Well, at least the mechanism of the clock is now in order, and this troubleshooting is relaxing in its own way With that small improvement, I'm still in the dark about my problem. So, good pinsiders: what's next?

#12 11 years ago

Well, I ran into an older thread on RGP, where someone was experiencing the exact same problem as I am: http://rgparchive-removed.com/rgpforum/showthread.php?t=193784

I'm currently on the L-4 ROM, and my next order of business is to get my hands on a functional 9.4H. Who knows, maybe this will be the solution.

#13 11 years ago

Recheck on warping of the minute-hand.
Mine was slightly warped and registering when going clockwise, but skipped one on counter-clockwise (how apropriate

#14 11 years ago

Hi Thor, thanks for the help! Ingo's diagnostic LEDs already showed me that the minute hand interrupts all opto's appropriately in both clockwise and counter-clockwise directions. Furthermore, the minute hand seems dead straight to me.
I ordered a ROM update today, so let's see if that takes care of my problem. For those interested, a dutch internet store sells a "special" version of the 9.4H software. I'm not talking about the coinhack in 9.4CH, but instead a 9.4H version in which the texts for the third magnet are added again. Check for version 9.4F in the following link: http://www.flipperwinkel.nl/winkel/contents/nl/d73.html
I'll let you how things play out.

#15 11 years ago

9.4F software arrived today. It's the same as 9.4H (it's even called 9.4H in the ROM startup). Sadly, contrary to what that rgp link stated, a ROM update did not solve my problem. I'm out of ideas for now, and pretty frustrated. This problem really has me stumped!

#16 11 years ago

Hey Cogito,

I had a similar problem, but a bit different so I'm not sure if this will help. My clock tested and worked great, but usually after a few seconds into Clock Choas, it would freeze up and stop working.

Never got credit dot though, and upon the start of a new game, it would reset back to 12.00 and work fine for all other modes, until Clock Chaos started again.

I figured something was wrong with the reverse signal, and traced it down to that dreaded Z-connector. I would re-seat it, and the problem would go away for a couple days, then come back.

I finally removed the Z-connector and attached all those wires directly.

Not sure if that will solve your problem, but eliminating the Z fixed all the clock issues I was having.

Try to un-plug and re-plug both sides of it (the Z-connector) and see if the clock works then.

That damn Z was the cause of so many issues for me. Reboots, DMD distortions, the clock... Pin has run great since I got rid of it.

Good luck!

#17 11 years ago

Hi bargoyle, thanks for the tip. Being new to the electrical nomenclature, could you specify further which connector you're referring to? Wire colours would be very helpful.Thanks!

#18 11 years ago

In the head, behind the back-glass (actually it sits right behind the DMD and speakers) in the lower left, there are two plastic molex connectors that plug into each other using the z-connector as a "bridge" between them. The connector looks like this:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2446

Its 7 pins (with one empty...only six wires connect..If i remember correctly), NOT 4 like the picture (just giving you a reference)

Might be difficult to notice at first because the two plugs attach on either side, but once you look closely, you'll find it.

Just unplug one side and re-connect it, then do the same on the other side.

The wires that run through there control the clock and DMD, and if loose cause all sorts of issues.

Fair warning, my problem was a little bit different, so I'm not sure if this will help you or not, but its an easy thing to test.

I can get the wire colors for you tonight when I get home if you cant find it.

Good luck!

Great machine, but a bear to work on. I've had a geneva switch error for months and since it doesn't effect gameplay, I refuse to take that damn gumball machine out again! I hate credit dot, but I'm learning to live with this one. lol

#19 11 years ago

Hi Bargoyle, thank you very much for the reply. I'll give my backbox a closer look tonight, and let you know how I fare. If anything, it's a possible solution I have not yet considered!
And yes, I totally agree about the difficulty level for repairs. Would you believe I purposefully chose this machine as my first, despite knowing it might be a pain to fix? I'm loving slowly bringing it back to 100%. It might cost me a bundle in time and effort, but the end result will be worth it

#20 11 years ago

I couldn't get your link to open... but I am assuming it was my post you were referring to.

Backing up Cogito's desription... he has it down exactly. I have the same problem. I have different ROM's, but I haven't tried tem out... for me, being able to use coins is more important than whether the clock runs in Chaos... I know.. that sounds goofy even to me.

Hope you get it solved. I would love to have both!

#21 11 years ago
Quoted from bargoyle:

In the head, behind the back-glass (actually it sits right behind the DMD and speakers) in the lower left, there are two plastic molex connectors that plug into each other using the z-connector as a "bridge" between them.

Found them, but sadly replugging both connections on the Z-connector a couple of times had no effect. Dagnabbit

#22 11 years ago

And welcome to the thread, lordnorth. I'm sure we'll get to the bottom of this. Could you post an update if you ever get around to trying your other ROMs? 9.4H is not a solution to our problem, anyway.

#23 11 years ago

That was me in the r.g.p. thread ...
Bad news, I sold the machine with the error. Meanwhile we bought an other TZ.

As I can remmeber, changing the ROM was not the final solution.
We changed the whole clock with an other and changed the clocks to different machines with no problem on the other machine but still the fault on mine . So at least it might be a ROM failure due a CPU will not break on this way. It was kind of a nightmare.

Good luck .. I am sure with Ingo "on board" you will figure out !

Quoted from cogito:

Well, I ran into an older thread on RGP, where someone was experiencing the exact same problem as I am: http://rgparchive-removed.com/rgpforum/showthread.php?t=193784
I'm currently on the L-4 ROM, and my next order of business is to get my hands on a functional 9.4H. Who knows, maybe this will be the solution.

#24 11 years ago

Welcome Tom, and thanks for chipping in. Your very useful switch of the entire clock between TZs suggests that the problem is not caused by anything in the physical clock. That makes sense, seeing how specific the problem is: all clock tests and movement are fine. Thanks for the valuable input!
So most likely the problem is chip related. Ideally, I'd like to list all the logic chips that are involved with the clock, and somehow test their connections to the board one by one. I'd better find out how to go about that.

#25 11 years ago
Quoted from cogito:

Welcome Tom, and thanks for chipping in. Your very useful switch of the entire clock between TZs suggests that the problem is not caused by anything in the physical clock. That makes sense, seeing how specific the problem is: all clock tests and movement are fine. Thanks for the valuable input!
So most likely the problem is chip related. Ideally, I'd like to list all the logic chips that are involved with the clock, and somehow test their connections to the board one by one. I'd better find out how to go about that.

I spoke with a really great expert about your problem and he will look at it. So please stay a bit patient, we wil find the problems, that must be somwhere on the CP-Board.

-Ingo

3 weeks later
#26 11 years ago

That's good news, Ingo. I'm very curious what input your expert friend can provide. I'm open to all suggestions Thanks for helping me get to the bottom of this!

#27 11 years ago

I'll pitch in my thanks here as well.

5 years later
#28 5 years ago

Problem seems to be solved!!!!! - after more than 5 years!!!!!!!!!

A friend of mine in the UK had exactly the same problem.

The problem seems to be caused by a miswired switch in another location in the machine. In the case of my friend it was a miswired switch on the slot machine switch.

This is, what he wrote to me:
"... Just thought I would let you know, that I have now got a fully working clock
To cut a long story short (as I spent hours looking), somebody in the past had soldered the 2 wires on the slot machine switch on the wrong end of the diode swapped them round and the clock is perfect now. ...

I asked him the following:
"... How for hell did you find this fault? It is nearly impossible, to find such a disgusting fault. ..."

Here is his answer:
"... I found it by fluke really, I thought I would just test every playfield switch to see, if they all worked and by pure luck there was still a ball in the slot machine so that switch was on.
As I got to the "lite slot machine switch", I noticed that the right slingshot fired as I pressed the switch? After a quick look underneath at the 3 switches I noticed that the slot machine switch was wired wrong.
I swapped the wire to the correct side of the diode and that cured the slingshot fault and when I started a game and got clock chaos it was fixed

Here is a picture of the switch that caused the problem.

Thanks again for all your help ..."

I must not mention, that finding this fault, took many many weeks and hours of time.

Conclusion: If such a disgusting fault occurs with your clock in clock chaos, check ALL your switches in your machine for miswiring and/or a faulty or reverse connected diode on the switch.

I thought, this is a very important information to share with all of you for same future problems.

Tribute goes to GREAT BRITAIN, thanks my friend!!!!!

PS.:
Here is a photo of the switch (in the photo, it is now wired the correct way)

slot machine switch correct (resized).jpgslot machine switch correct (resized).jpg

5 months later
#29 5 years ago

I've updated the titel of this thread to reflect this solution. I believe your UK friend is the same person who messaged me a few months ago. Unfortunately I didn't have access to my TZ to check if my slot machine switch was miswired.

Now that I've checked my TZ, I can confirm the root of this problem and its solution. The white-grey striped wires of my slot machine switch were connected to both ends of the diode. I had one white-grey wire connected to the non-banded diode side, and one grey-white wire connected to the banded diode side.

I rewired both my white-grey wires to both connect to the non-banded side of the diode, and I can confirm this fixes the weird clock chaos error. My clock is now fully functional.

I've attached a picture that also includes a clear view of the diode. Hopefully this solution will help anyone that experiences the same problem.

20190323_092947 (resized).jpg20190323_092947 (resized).jpg
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