http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

I'd go through the reset check list to narrow down what needs fixing.

LTG : )

Watch what they do, ask a few questions, don't get in their way. Then you'll learn more about your game and may help you in the future.

LTG : )

http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html

A fix, but not a solution.

I see you're in TX.....by chance is this happening now that your air conditioning is probably kicking on? Have you checked the wall voltage? I doubt that's it, but stranger things have happened.

When it happens during gameplay, are you flipping both the flippers at the same time (drawing a load) or does it just happen?

Have you tried reseating the connectors? Specialy the Z-connector?

Ditto...These do work but it's not a total fix. I've used them in the past and have a couple around for backup.

And J101, J102, J114, and J210.

Having same issue.. but with rottendog installed. Following to see what your solution ends up being! Good luck wish I could provide some advice

Here's my quick and dirty list of things to do regarding resets.

1. Eliminate any plugstrips, splitters, extension cords, etc.
2. Reseat J101, J114, J210
3. Reseat Z-Connector

Still having resets?

4. Replace J101, J114, J210 headers AND connectors.

Still having resets?

5. Replace Z-connector

Still having resets?

6. Replace C4
7. Replace C5

Still having resets?

8. Replace Q1 voltage regulator with an ezSBC LM323K regulator. https://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/psu5.html#.XQp_FOhKhaQ

J102 or J210?

Sorry, I meant J210 on the MPU, not J115.

J102 doesn't have anything to do with the 5V. J102 is for solenoids, flashlamps, flippers.

then you mean J210, not J201?

Sorry was going from memory...changed. Thanks!

I like this order. If you have any improvements at all with step 2 and 3, steps 4 and/or 5 should help a lot.

There is so many things to try listed here I'm almost scared to post anything but I'm going to anyway as I just cant help myself.

EDIT: <paragraph removed as I really spoke my mind here on what I read in this topic>

WARNING RANT COMING!

You know whats missing here...

There is not a single voltage measurement posted from the OP nor requested by anyone. The best that was done was he was pointed in the right direction by LTG so its assumed that these measurements are good as the OP posted he performed the procedure and found no issues; yet everyone assumes that there is a low voltage problem because they seen it all before and go through all the steps to correct this issue with absolutely ZERO voltage measurements. Based on this post:

I feel we did nothing to assist the OP to understand or diagnose his issue as his problem may actually be as simple as a loose ASIC ... but there is no way to know

END RANT.

I'm just going to ask three question of marioparty34 and am not going to post any more in this thread.

1) What was your voltage measurements at TP2 on the Power Driver board?
2) What was your measurement at pin 32 of the game ROM, or on pin 2 (center pin) of U10?
3) If you remove all connectors EXCEPT J210 from the CPU board, does it give you the same reset sequence as seen in your video or does D20 blink normally?

The problem is that most voltage measurements in these situations are not helpful. Voltages are usually fine until something causes a dip which triggers the reset. Unless you have a scope you have little chance of actually seeing the voltage dip. Most meters aren't nearly sensitive enough. So in a lot of cases it is simply easier to treat resets symptomatically.