Manheim, PA
Can anyone help with the TZ error “Ball Popper Opto is stuck”? It’s got me stumped a bit as it appears I have power going to the Ball Popper Opto.
A911652F-4036-4A15-9228-7E70771CAE8B (resized).jpeg(Topic ID: 291201)
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Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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Quoted from Barr993:Have you tried cleaning the opto? A dirty one could be "stuck" closed.
I did. I’ll clean all of them...it appears none of the optos are working after trying to play a game on it
Robina
First step to fault finding is finding out what works and what doesn't.
Starting to look like an Opto Board. I've had an LM339 go bad on my WH20 Opto Board.
Don't be lazy, go into the test Menu and spend 10 Minutes testing all your opto switchs
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:First step to fault finding is finding out what works and what doesn't.
Starting to look like an Opto Board. I've had an LM339 go bad on my WH20 Opto Board.
Don't be lazy, go into the test Menu and spend 10 Minutes testing all your opto switchs
I don’t see any Opto switches in the matrix on TZ
Quoted from TheLaw:Well it has plenty
yea but like other titles, for whatever reason the ball popper Opto and others isn’t in that matrix
It will have an Opto Board underneath the Playfield.
Looking at the Manual it has nothing short of 4 different opto Boards scattered everywhere.
Its a complicated Machine TZ.
From what I can tell the Machine is bitching about Switch 74 Gumball Popper.
Its part of the switch Matrix but it steps through the custom 10 channel Opto Board.
If the LED on the Opto Board is lit and the wiring is Good and the Opto Emmitter and reciever are OK then the relevant LM339 on the opto board is faulty.
Not sure if you can swap plugs on the opto board for fault finding but I'm guessing you could, if you are on the ball.
I assume you have checked that the Ball Popper is not actually getting stuck and blocking the Opto. These Machine are often smarter than the Owners..lol
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:It will have an Opto Board underneath the Playfield.
Looking at the Manual it has nothing short of 4 different opto Boards scattered everywhere.
Its a complicated Machine TZ.
From what I can tell the Machine is bitching about Switch 74 Gumball Popper.
Its part of the switch Matrix but it steps through the custom 10 channel Opto Board.
If the LED on the Opto Board is lit and the wiring is Good and the Opto Emmitter and reciever are OK then the relevant LM339 on the opto board is faulty.
Not sure if you can swap plugs on the opto board for fault finding but I'm guessing you could, if you are on the ball.
I assume you have checked that the Ball Popper is not actually getting stuck and blocking the Opto. These Machine are often smarter than the Owners..lol
Yes. The popper is not getting stuck. The matrix claims that that switch is a white/yellow green/violet...I can’t find any switch on that corner of the playfield that matches those color wires....this is frustrating...it’s causing other optos down the line to not function either as a result
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:Is the LED light on the 10 channel Opto Board
yes it is
Quoted from Trooper11040:6 hours in so far and still no luck. This one is making me regret buying this game
these problems are always super frustrating, and make you want to throw the game out the window. but trust me, with time everything is fixable. step away for a few hours to a day, maybe do some switch matrix/opto reading up, have a night's sleep, and come back to it with fresh eyes. you're not going to find the solutions when you feel you must.
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:Is the LED light on the 10 channel Opto Board
Now the LED is no longer lit. I did remove the c1 to check for corrosion and re-soldered it back on
Ok so an update. Reflowed the solder. Got the LED relight. Every opto on J1 is bad so it makes me believe that LM339 is bad on the opto board. I don’t have the skills unfortunately to resolder a new one. I’ll prob just buy a new opto board
Quoted from Trooper11040:Ok so an update. Reflowed the solder. Got the LED relight. Every opto on J1 is bad so it makes me believe that LM339 is bad on the opto board. I don’t have the skills unfortunately to resolder a new one. I’ll prob just buy a new opto board
Every opto on J1 is non functional. Leaves me to believe that the opto board is the issue
874C0904-903A-491E-93DC-0DE268BFC6F8 (resized).jpegIts actually fairly common for the LM339's to go bad on Opto boards. Now they are 30 years old and no-one bother to change out the Electro Caps on any of these and other supplementary Boards.
Looking like I was spot on yet again.
I'd love to fix it, I'm in Australia
Definitely reflow the solder joints on the headers because they often are cracked. Depending on your skills, it should cost about $5 (plus another $5 for shipping) to recap and replace the 339's on the opto pcb.
Quoted from Trooper11040:Every opto on J1 is non functional. Leaves me to believe that the opto board is the issue[quoted image]
Can you test the lm339 using this pinwiki method https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#7_Opto_Board_Testing
Or zaza test process https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-trough-opto-issue#post-5088875
These will verify if the lm339 is bad
Quoted from amxfc3s:Definitely reflow the solder joints on the headers because they often are cracked. Depending on your skills, it should cost about $5 (plus another $5 for shipping) to recap and replace the 339's on the opto pcb.
I actually ordered a new opto board that has replaceable ICs. I’ll send this one out. I unfortunately don’t have the soldering skills to change out the 339s
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