If anyone wants to part with their TX-Sector, let me know! I’d love to slot one right beside my Robo War.

Try polishing it with the 3M Headlight Restore kit first. That might brighten it up enough for you to tolerate it, and you won't risk anything.

It's definitely not for me, but I can dig it. It's only t-molding! Would be neat if the t-molding lights would chase in sync with the ramp lamps during a teleport. THAT would be rad.

Start easy: Check your 5v. If it's even slightly high, the sound board will have booting issues.
Then check the Aux Power Supply to make sure it's delivering a proper 12 volts to the sound board. This 12 volts is generated from the solenoid voltage, so double check your fuses.

If you're certain you don't have a voltage issue, and you're absolutely certain it's not the connector (A1J5) dig out the logic probe for some fun:

Z13 on the driver board sends the sound call signals to the soundboard. Grab your logic probe and probe the pins. In attract mode, it should test: Pin 1: high, Pin 2: low, Pin 3: High, Pin 4: Low (this pattern continues across all pins).

Moving farther upstream: Z27 and Z31 on the MPU board feeds signals to the driver board to generate sound call information. Again, logic probe the pins. In attract mode the logic levels should be:

Z27

Pin 1: High
2: low
3: high
4: low
5 high
6: low
7: low
8: low
9: blank (no signal, neither high nor low)
10: low
11: high
12: low
13: high
14: high

Z31 (which is a SN7408N)

1-7: all low
8-13: all low
14: high

No problem! Glad you got it sorted!

Would you happen to have a source for that? Not questioning the truth to it or anything, but I’m just curious to read more about it. I love learning about little details like this.

I’ve also heard a rumor about them using Ken dolls as models. I think in a TNT video, but I can’t be certain. Anyone hear anything like that before?

To me, their unwillingness to pay for licenses is part of the charm. Raven/Rambo, Hollywood Heat/Miami Vice, Robo-War/Transformers, Gold Wings/Top Gun all being shameless low-rent ripoffs is kinda why I like them so much.

The manual states that #455 bulbs are supposed to be used in the energy level insert. I’ve only ever seen regular bulbs. Anyone put blinkers in there? How’s the effect?

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When that left ramp is qualified for a teleport, the right inlane will drop the target.

It’s a great setup for cashing in on a 9x teleport multiplier bonus.

Love all your tutorials! I’ve been subbed for a while now, and your videos are always such good quality. Thanks for your hard work!

The commentary is what makes it good! There's a million gameplay videos of games, but very few that take the trouble to discuss and go into detail of the game. I always appreciate videos like that.

I imagine that very few vitrigraph playfields exist. My first instinct would've been that the early production models would've been produced with a vitrigraph playfield, since the two earlier games, Diamond Lady and Victory, were both nearly produced exclusively with vitrigraph playfields, and the vitrigraph playfield is shown on the flyer. However, a look on the IPSND shows a later production game with it.

I've heard, and this is complete speculation, that on games like Diamond Lady and Victory, a screened playfield was provided to the operator/distributor because the vitrigraph playfields had adhesion problems. I'm not sure how TX-Sector would fit into this, since it seems like the opposite is true: More screened playfields were made.

Yup. It’s in their system 3 games too. They’re known for lots of Lazarus balls. I have rubber rings in some of my troughs, and not in others. I really don’t notice much of a difference.

Part of me thinks the vitrigraph would be early production games. You should add your serial number to the serial number database.

It'll be stamped in the bottom of the cabinet just above the cashbox, or on the inside face of the ball apron. It would also be on the printed circuit boards, assuming they all match/haven't been replaced.

I've always wondered the same thing. I assumed they were decorative.

I’ve been dealing with switch issues on my game as well. Gottlieb games do a really terrible job at switch compensation (read: it doesn’t do any at all). If the games critical switches aren’t operating perfectly, the game simply won’t function perfectly.

Sounds like your transport kickout saucer holes aren’t detecting the ball properly. I was going through a similar issue with my drop target switches. Even slightly dirty, the MPU couldn’t sense them. Even cleaning yielded no improvements… I drilled out the old contacts from the leafs, and soldered in new gold flashed contacts from PBR. Alls working now.

I’m still amazed that Gottlieb let those vitrigraph playfields out of the factory so poorly cut like that. They look rushed. There’s gotta be a story behind the reasoning why.

Given the current evidence, the vitrigraph playfields are definitely later run games. Surprising, considering the flyer shows a vitrigraph playfield, and the flyer is obviously photographed and made pre-production.

Clearly, the vitrigraph playfieds are much less common, so even though they’re poorly cut and don’t look as nice, they’re a really cool collectors piece to have.

I literally just drilled out the switches and soldered in new ones on the drop targets in my game. Used the ones from PBR, and it Took me 20 minutes. Easy. It’s also significantly less expensive to do.