TX-Sector
Gottlieb, 1988You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider RGarriott.
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Hey guys I just joined the club. The TX is going to look really nice next to my Robo-War. Its not perfect but it does boot and light up. I am in need of a speaker panel with displays and a translight in the backbox though. Anyone have a lead on one.
Well I just got off the phone with PBR and they no longer have speaker panels. They also dont have any 27" legs, he is having a had time getting them made. I did however get a new shooter rod assembly. So thats a plus. So the search continues for a Backbox speaker panel with or without the displays. I would be ok with a file to print my own also if anyone has that.
Has anyone done a mod of the lights of the teleport ramp to a 47 LED or something like that?
Quoted from mrm78:Hi from Germany I am a happy owner of an TX-Sector. Its my first Pin. Greetings Marcel Cevani
Hello and welcome
Quoted from Jkush18:Anyone have a link to the manual or know the dimensions of the back glass by chance??
The translite/backglass is 20x25.
I am mainly needing the Edge Connector, 0.156" Plug, 19 Pin Single sided edge type connector
Rib between pins 4 and 5, pins 7 and 8, pins 11 and 12 & pins 15 and 16. This is for the display.
Im ok with running new wires and adding new connectors to the other ends but really need the 19 pin edge connector.
Quoted from Jkush18:Where is A10P2? Says it’s in the cabinet? I’m having trouble with my reset on the sound board. I know the board is good.
A10P2 goes to your display. Its in the upper right corner of the backbox.
Quoted from Jkush18:Is that the connector giving you issues as well? I can’t seem to get the sound board to reset any tips? I have a logic probe arriving today.
My issue is I got a game with no backglass or display/speaker panel.
If you are having sound issues, look at the connector coming off the sound board. You could have some collapsed pins. The connector may need a rebuild.
Quoted from DawnP:We are going to be working on our TX soon and I was wondering if you guys could tell me if the left ramp and wire form are supposed to be sitting directly on the pop bumpers? We have a new set of ramps we will be installing, maybe that will fix that. Thanks, Dawn
The wire form sits really damn close if not barely touching the pop caps, that is correct.
Quoted from DK:After 3 years of trying to line up the right TX I finally got one!
Time to party! TX TX TX!
Excellent. Welcome to the club.
Quoted from mbaumle:The manual states that #455 bulbs are supposed to be used in the energy level insert. I’ve only ever seen regular bulbs. Anyone put blinkers in there? How’s the effect?[quoted image]
I have blinkers in mine. I tried both, regular bulbs and the blinkers. The regular bulbs didn’t cut it. Very stagnant and boring. The blinkers are a must.
Quoted from Colehvac1:Tx sector restoration 1 is done, now i can start on number 2
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Looks great
How are you lighting the backbox?
I have done the ground mods at the transformer and have added the extra ground at the mpu/driver connection. I have done that to 5 80b games, very easy and makes everything reliable.
I have a question for ya. I have been noticing lately that sometimes when the ball activates the right inlane switch that its making the center ramp drop target fall. I thought I was having an issue but then watched a game play video from Tattyadams and noticed his do the same. Its not happening all the time so what activates the change to the inlane dropping the target?
Quoted from cottonm4:Time to give this thread some life.
Mine arrived with 28" legs on. I could barely get to a 5.2% slope. This made the pin play dog slow. I like fast. I now have it set to 6.5% slope. It is steep and the play action has improved tremendously ! Even when I first ran it up to 5.8% slope with wood blocks under the bak legs, the ball seemed floaty.
The manual shows the option of two different flipper coils. There is the standard A-17875 flipper coil. And there is the A-20095 Super Flipper coil. This pin has the A-20095 Super coils installed. These super coils handle the 6.5% slope with ease. I would prefer a hotter coil but Steve at PBR says what I have are the hottest. He makes his own coils so I think I will try to beg him to make me a custom pair in a little while.
To get the 6.5% slope, I had to install a pair of 31" legs on the back, keep the 28" legs on the front but extend the levelers a bit. I don't like this solution and am thinking about other ways to approach this. In the end, I will probably be chopping legs in half and welding them to different measurements. For instance, my 31" legs may be getting cut down and welded to make 29" or 30" legs. And the front 28" inch legs will probably be cut and welded into 25" legs. I will discuss this more at a later time.
Fortunately, the game is playing 100% and I am not having any kind of electrical problems.
Not the best pic but you can see I actually have a TX. It has the Vitrigraph play field which is in super condition.
[quoted image]
In the meantime, I don't know how to set a Gottlieb up for Free Play so I went with my mechanical mod.
Here is my first mod. To make it easy to add credits, I used a micro switch, some 3M double back tape, a small block of wood, and some wire and alligator clips.
1) The microwitch sits below the coin return lever. It is double back taped to the coin mechanism.
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2) Due to clearance issues with the coin return actuating lever I had to double back tape a small piece of wood to the lever. This block of wood is what actually activates the microswitch.
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3) And then 2 alligator clips are attached to the terminals on the coin switch.
4) All I need to do to add credits is to push the coin return.
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Cheap to make. Easy to make. And works like a charm.
And easily reversible if that need should arise.
Looks good. You can also place a jumper on the diode board for the start button to add a credit each time its pushed.
I have cut and rewelded a few sets of Gottlieb legs, If you happen to do it again have the fabricator cut at the bottom plate where the leveler goes and then cut the leg material to length and then weld the bottom plate back on, that way you will not see the seam in the middle of the leg. The weld is at the bottom so its nice and clean with a factory look.
Quoted from cottonm4:How do you guys with 28" legs on both front and back manage to get a 6 degree slope on your play field?
I have my front levelers all the way down and the back 3" all the way up.
Quoted from cottonm4:Is this play field post under the apron something Gottlieb used on its pinball machines? All I know is sometimes when the ball hits it just right I get a Lazarus ball from it. I have not seen this anywhere else.
I'm thinking of putting a post rubber onto it and see what happens.
[quoted image]
Yes that is a feature of these games, I have my 4 80b games with rubbers on the post. Its some nice bonus play when it pops back up to ya.
Quoted from cottonm4:What kind of slope are you getting with your 3" difference?
Ill check later today but Im pretty sure Im about 6.5.
He is my Tx. I have a restore thread of this game. Check it out. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-storage-shed-tx-tx-tx
I recently installed a speaker line converter and a Velodyne 120w powered 10in sub and man what a difference. The sub brings the whole audio package to a new level. Awesome add on.
Quoted from cottonm4:What is a speaker line converter?
Where do you buy from?
Any tricks to setting this up?
https://www.amazon.com/AUTUT-Impedance-Converter-Adapter-Speaker/dp/B07QNPCK8Z
The line convertor i guess takes the audio and makes the speaker able to process it better. Solder speaker wire on to the cabinet speaker, run those wires down to the one side of the line convertor and then RCA cable to the powered sub.
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West Point, IN