TX-Sector
Gottlieb, 1988Quoted from DuffysArcade:I believe it's hard-wired through the transformer block up to the starter and bulb. You'd have to install a relay or mosfet which takes input from somewhere when the game starts and interrupt the power to the lamp. Some digging in the wiring diagram and you could maybe find a point on the sound board that goes "high" during a game and use that.
Thank you , that’s a good idea, I’ll start looking in that direction
Quoted from MarAlb:Yes there is: Haunted House needs 31" legs in the back and 27" in front.
I was about to post just that. You are correct. According to pin wiki only HH requires two different sizes. Mostly other system 80s a/b have 27 inch legs.
Quoted from Jkush18:Whaddya think? Did I bastardize it?
It's definitely not for me, but I can dig it. It's only t-molding! Would be neat if the t-molding lights would chase in sync with the ramp lamps during a teleport. THAT would be rad.
Quoted from mbaumle:It's definitely not for me, but I can dig it. It's only t-molding! Would be neat if the t-molding lights would chase in sync with the ramp lamps during a teleport. THAT would be rad.
That would be sweet. For now it’s just two strips that tie together. Colors can be changed and it has a response to music mode as well but a chase that mimicked the teleport ramp in either direction would be amazing.
Quoted from Vandy89:I like the red LED T molding.
When I restored mine I went with silver.[quoted image]
That looks great .
Where is A10P2? Says it’s in the cabinet? I’m having trouble with my reset on the sound board. I know the board is good.
Quoted from Jkush18:Where is A10P2? Says it’s in the cabinet? I’m having trouble with my reset on the sound board. I know the board is good.
A10P2 goes to your display. Its in the upper right corner of the backbox.
Quoted from RGarriott:A10P2 goes to your display. Its in the upper right corner of the backbox.
Is that the connector giving you issues as well? I can’t seem to get the sound board to reset any tips? I have a logic probe arriving today.
Quoted from Jkush18:Is that the connector giving you issues as well? I can’t seem to get the sound board to reset any tips? I have a logic probe arriving today.
My issue is I got a game with no backglass or display/speaker panel.
If you are having sound issues, look at the connector coming off the sound board. You could have some collapsed pins. The connector may need a rebuild.
Quoted from RGarriott:My issue is I got a game with no backglass or display/speaker panel.
If you are having sound issues, look at the connector coming off the sound board. You could have some collapsed pins. The connector may need a rebuild.
Hmm I rebuilt the edge connectors but not those two. A6 I believe. You wouldn’t happen to know the connector size there?
Quoted from Jkush18:I can’t seem to get the sound board to reset any tips? I have a logic probe arriving today.
Start easy: Check your 5v. If it's even slightly high, the sound board will have booting issues.
Then check the Aux Power Supply to make sure it's delivering a proper 12 volts to the sound board. This 12 volts is generated from the solenoid voltage, so double check your fuses.
If you're certain you don't have a voltage issue, and you're absolutely certain it's not the connector (A1J5) dig out the logic probe for some fun:
Z13 on the driver board sends the sound call signals to the soundboard. Grab your logic probe and probe the pins. In attract mode, it should test: Pin 1: high, Pin 2: low, Pin 3: High, Pin 4: Low (this pattern continues across all pins).
Moving farther upstream: Z27 and Z31 on the MPU board feeds signals to the driver board to generate sound call information. Again, logic probe the pins. In attract mode the logic levels should be:
Z27
Pin 1: High
2: low
3: high
4: low
5 high
6: low
7: low
8: low
9: blank (no signal, neither high nor low)
10: low
11: high
12: low
13: high
14: high
Z31 (which is a SN7408N)
1-7: all low
8-13: all low
14: high
Quoted from mbaumle:Start easy: Check your 5v. If it's even slightly high, the sound board will have booting issues.
Then check the Aux Power Supply to make sure it's delivering a proper 12 volts to the sound board. This 12 volts is generated from the solenoid voltage, so double check your fuses.
If you're certain you don't have a voltage issue, and you're absolutely certain it's not the connector (A1J5) dig out the logic probe for some fun:
Z13 on the driver board sends the sound call signals to the soundboard. Grab your logic probe and probe the pins. In attract mode, it should test: Pin 1: high, Pin 2: low, Pin 3: High, Pin 4: Low (this pattern continues across all pins).
Moving farther upstream: Z27 and Z31 on the MPU board feeds signals to the driver board to generate sound call information. Again, logic probe the pins. In attract mode the logic levels should be:
Z27
Pin 1: High
2: low
3: high
4: low
5 high
6: low
7: low
8: low
9: blank (no signal, neither high nor low)
10: low
11: high
12: low
13: high
14: high
Z31 (which is a SN7408N)
1-7: all low
8-13: all low
14: high
I can’t thank you enough. For this I’m going to try and sort this out and I’ll report back.
Quoted from mbaumle:Start easy: Check your 5v. If it's even slightly high, the sound board will have booting issues.
Then check the Aux Power Supply to make sure it's delivering a proper 12 volts to the sound board. This 12 volts is generated from the solenoid voltage, so double check your fuses.
If you're certain you don't have a voltage issue, and you're absolutely certain it's not the connector (A1J5) dig out the logic probe for some fun:
Z13 on the driver board sends the sound call signals to the soundboard. Grab your logic probe and probe the pins. In attract mode, it should test: Pin 1: high, Pin 2: low, Pin 3: High, Pin 4: Low (this pattern continues across all pins).
Moving farther upstream: Z27 and Z31 on the MPU board feeds signals to the driver board to generate sound call information. Again, logic probe the pins. In attract mode the logic levels should be:
Z27
Pin 1: High
2: low
3: high
4: low
5 high
6: low
7: low
8: low
9: blank (no signal, neither high nor low)
10: low
11: high
12: low
13: high
14: high
Z31 (which is a SN7408N)
1-7: all low
8-13: all low
14: high
Just to clarify. The sound board works great if I manually reset it with the reset button on the sound board. It’s just not resetting on its own.
As suspected the sound board is fine. There’s something going on with the reset signal. Sometimes the display will get all wonky at boot but then a power cycle fixes it? I did the ground mods. All new boards. New connectors. Got connectivity along the entire reset line 300 orange black black. I’m stumped.
We are going to be working on our TX soon and I was wondering if you guys could tell me if the left ramp and wire form are supposed to be sitting directly on the pop bumpers? We have a new set of ramps we will be installing, maybe that will fix that. Thanks, Dawn
Quoted from DawnP:We are going to be working on our TX soon and I was wondering if you guys could tell me if the left ramp and wire form are supposed to be sitting directly on the pop bumpers? We have a new set of ramps we will be installing, maybe that will fix that. Thanks, Dawn
The wire form sits really damn close if not barely touching the pop caps, that is correct.
I have a question about TX-Sector. What's the deal with the backglass? Is there a historical reason for it? It sort of looks like somebody took a real backglass, color copied it on cheap paper, stuck it behind a pane of glass, and let the sun bleach it for a couple of years. No offense intended but I just can't get past that look. I always by-passed the game at shows because it looked to me like somebody broke the original backglass and put in a lousy copy, but apparently that's the look the manufacturer wanted. Why? I assume there is a reason why it doesn't have the traditional silkscreen ink or a brighter, more vibrant translite look, but for the life of me I can't figure it out.
Anyone have advice or can point me to a link of how to install a shaker motor and an external powered subwoofer (or even better yet, a Woojer force feedback vest) in my TX?
Quoted from DorkInAbox:Anyone have advice or can point me to a link of how to install a shaker motor and an external powered subwoofer (or even better yet, a Woojer force feedback vest) in my TX?
https://www.woojer.com/
https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/products/pinsub-multi-system-kit
Grab that one to be able to hook up an external powered sub.
Quoted from mbaumle:Start easy: Check your 5v. If it's even slightly high, the sound board will have booting issues.
Then check the Aux Power Supply to make sure it's delivering a proper 12 volts to the sound board. This 12 volts is generated from the solenoid voltage, so double check your fuses.
If you're certain you don't have a voltage issue, and you're absolutely certain it's not the connector (A1J5) dig out the logic probe for some fun:
Z13 on the driver board sends the sound call signals to the soundboard. Grab your logic probe and probe the pins. In attract mode, it should test: Pin 1: high, Pin 2: low, Pin 3: High, Pin 4: Low (this pattern continues across all pins).
Moving farther upstream: Z27 and Z31 on the MPU board feeds signals to the driver board to generate sound call information. Again, logic probe the pins. In attract mode the logic levels should be:
Z27
Pin 1: High
2: low
3: high
4: low
5 high
6: low
7: low
8: low
9: blank (no signal, neither high nor low)
10: low
11: high
12: low
13: high
14: high
Z31 (which is a SN7408N)
1-7: all low
8-13: all low
14: high
Turned out to be a bad rom chip at U5 on the mpu that deals with the reset circuit. Odd since it was a brand new swemmer board. Fixed that and now everything works great. Thank you for the help!
Quoted from Jkush18:Thank you for the help!
No problem! Glad you got it sorted!
Quoted from sbmania:I have a question about TX-Sector. What's the deal with the backglass? Is there a historical reason for it? It sort of looks like somebody took a real backglass, color copied it on cheap paper, stuck it behind a pane of glass, and let the sun bleach it for a couple of years. No offense intended but I just can't get past that look. I always by-passed the game at shows because it looked to me like somebody broke the original backglass and put in a lousy copy, but apparently that's the look the manufacturer wanted. Why? I assume there is a reason why it doesn't have the traditional silkscreen ink or a brighter, more vibrant translite look, but for the life of me I can't figure it out.
According to what I read a few years ago, the TX backglass (actually a translight) used the first computer generated artwork. This partially explains why the image is so weird and diffused-looking. On top of that many (most?) of the TX translights out there are severely faded. As you probably know reds go first in terms of fading. I only discovered how faded my own TX translight was after I saw a NOS someone was selling. The side-by-side comparison was dramatic and my whole machine looks better now.
Quoted from doghouse:According to what I read a few years ago, the TX backglass (actually a translight) used the first computer generated artwork.
Would you happen to have a source for that? Not questioning the truth to it or anything, but I’m just curious to read more about it. I love learning about little details like this.
I’ve also heard a rumor about them using Ken dolls as models. I think in a TNT video, but I can’t be certain. Anyone hear anything like that before?
Quoted from doghouse:According to what I read a few years ago, the TX backglass (actually a translight) used the first computer generated artwork. This partially explains why the image is so weird and diffused-looking. On top of that many (most?) of the TX translights out there are severely faded. As you probably know reds go first in terms of fading. I only discovered how faded my own TX translight was after I saw a NOS someone was selling. The side-by-side comparison was dramatic and my whole machine looks better now.
The TX translite design is so strange. If Gottlieb was willing to pay for the license, the game easily could have been themed after the 1986 Movie "The Fly" starring Jeff Goldblum. That would have tied perfectly into the transporting ball.
Quoted from DuffysArcade:If Gottlieb was willing to pay for the license
To me, their unwillingness to pay for licenses is part of the charm. Raven/Rambo, Hollywood Heat/Miami Vice, Robo-War/Transformers, Gold Wings/Top Gun all being shameless low-rent ripoffs is kinda why I like them so much.
Quoted from DK:After 3 years of trying to line up the right TX I finally got one!
Time to party! TX TX TX!
Excellent. Welcome to the club.
Quoted from mbaumle:The manual states that #455 bulbs are supposed to be used in the energy level insert. I’ve only ever seen regular bulbs. Anyone put blinkers in there? How’s the effect?[quoted image]
I have blinkers in mine. I tried both, regular bulbs and the blinkers. The regular bulbs didn’t cut it. Very stagnant and boring. The blinkers are a must.
Quoted from Jkush18:I have a ton of spare parts for tx if anyone needs, everything is working and tested.
sound board with roms
Swemmer cpu
Driver board
Piggy back board with cable
[quoted image]
Pm sent!
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Laurel Springs, NJ