Also found this photo on the web...does the ramp actually lay completely flat on the top face if you flip it over? It is kind of hard to tell at this angle. Mine curves back downward after the 180 turn, as it heads for the out-hole in the ramp.

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ramp should lay flat

That plastic in particular is a bit think and over time it will sag

Okay, thank you. I've got my work cut out for me!

Got my prototypes installed today Clear ramps! Man this looks amazing, Thank You Jody G!!!!!!

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look awesome!

when/where can we get the next round?

Hey Hilton, I am tuning in the molds this week and should be ready to run them on demand going forward. I will be able to offer them in different colors as well. Jim is going to try a set of purple ones, and I was thinking smoked black would look good also. And of course, I'll have the original red available. Pricing will be $125 a set. They are also available individually should someone only need one.

Looking fwd to see some colors for sure.

I think Blue(to match pf blue) could be cool.

I will for sure take a set! Just meet to see some colors.

I'm sure I'll be getting a set too. Can't wait to see the colors. Thanks for offering these!!

I am ready to run some, but I'm having trouble getting colors at the moment with some things being shut down. I'll be sure to post up a color spread when I receive them.

Count me in for a set when these are made.

Ran a few test colors today...red, smoked, purple and light blue. I still am waiting on a darker blue as well.

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Amazing !!!!!!

looking good!

Excited for the dark blue!

Hard to tell in pics or if just cause test run... are there bubbles in there?

Good eye! No bubbles...just weird reflections off the micro texture in the plastic. I probably shouldn't use the flash for these. I've had bubbles before, and it's usually a sign of being too hot. Those ones get rejected if it ever happens.

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Will you be able to get pics of them fitted in games at all?

Would be awesome to see with normal lighting behind them.

Still thinking the dark blue (like on PF) will be awesome looking!

I'd like to get pictures of each...but I need to find someone willing to put them in with standard white GI to get an accurate image.

I will volunteer to help you, I have 2 Tx sectors I’m restoring

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2! Hard machine to get and you have two
-Mike

I can also help if needed. I have a NOS ramp set, but think I might spring for a dark Blue set instead. I have one of Jody's ramps in my spring break and they are very nice.

J.

Any fellow TX owners have one with the Vitrigraph playfield? I'm trying to find out if all of the examples out there have had the "plastic surface" trimmed by hand as needed when the pin was built. The few examples I have seen look kind of rough.

The regular looks much better.
There is good reason it was only tested and then canned.

Yes, 2 I’m restoring, one for me and one for a friend. Anything can be bought if your willing to pay, me and my friend were willing to pay up!

After finishing RoboWar last year I've been searching for a TX Sector and I can finally say that I've joined the Club! I didn't get many photos as I'm storing it at a buddy's house while I move. The machine is all original except for having a Lisy80 installed in place of the MPU. I don't really care for this solution, so I've ordered a Swemmer 80B MPU replacement board which I'll have soon.

Unfortunately, it was advertised as 100% functional but when I arrived at the seller's place the music wasn't working! Sound effects are there but no music. No red LED on the soundboard. I'll start working on that soon, I have some experience with fixing 80b sounds. Can't wait to see it in the lineup next to Robo-War!!

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Colehvac1

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sweeeeeeeeeeTTTTT

Im ready, cabinet restoration is happening while i wait for other parts

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Are you going to use decal set for the cabinet art?

Yes

Clear and blue...I can make the blue heavier if requested...I was thinking of leaving it on the transparent side for the first attempt.

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So excited to find this thread!
I am new to the pin community (longtime googler and lurked from time to time, but never registered), and I have become so obsessed with TX-Sector over the past year or so. I thought it would be easy to buy one when I first started out as a newbie enthusiast, but I have never seen one for sale, haha (for any price).
Happy to be here, and enjoying looking through this thread!

Picked up a TX Sector yesterday

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Wow, that's one of the very few with a Vitrigraph playfield......me jealous!

If anyone wants to part with their TX-Sector, let me know! I’d love to slot one right beside my Robo War.

I have a few issues with my TX, mainly the flippers feeling sluggish & weak. I have no other Gottlieb games so I have no frame of reference what they should be like. But I can not make the left ramp shot with the right flipper, and barely make the right ramp shot with the upper left flipper.

This game got very little play and mechanically everything is in pristine condition. Voltage is only slightly below 25V.

Also the slingshots are weak when the ball hits them lightly, are there supposed to be capacitors on the slingshot switches?

I'm not sure if this game was working properly and just started acting up, or if you just got the game....Since it seems to have affected all of the solenoids, perhaps first check that your machine is jumpered properly so it is operating on the correct voltage. My TX is also running on 230 volts so I'll attach a photo of the jumper connector.

Are your flippers worn out? Are your EOS switches not adjusted properly? If the EOS opens too early the flippers will lack power. Of course, if your flippers need to be rebuilt they won't work well. Do you have the correct flipper coils installed?

The slingshots...are the switches in good shape? Not making good contact? Correct coils? I dont see any caps installed on my TX slingshots.

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Thanks for the photos of the underside of the playfield @duffysarcade, I couldn't find any high-res pics of it.

I got the game in non-working condition, the MPU had a lot of corrosion which I cleaned up, and I repinned some damaged connectors. But otherwise the game is like new, works great, no hacks, flipper mechs are like new as well.

The slingshots and kicker targets seem to have good power when they get a solid hit (and the pop bumpers are insane!). The flippers seem especially weak when you trap the ball. I've already cleaned and adjusted the EOS and cabinet switches and checked other basic things like voltages. Not sure if there's anything down the line that's a common point of failure?

koen12344
Congrats on the TX! It is definitely a sweet machine.

Have the ground mods been done on the machine? It is a must on system 80B games with the funky MOLEX connectors carrying the grounds to the transformer chassis. I am not sure it will solve all of the problems you are facing, but ground mods greatly improve the reliability of 80B Gottliebs and they are always step 1 in the troubleshooting process. There are also flipper board mods that need to be done.

If it's your first 80B game you want to read this:

https://www.flippers.com/gottlieb_ground_cures.html

I love the game, I think I had seen it on a video by Classic Game Room, when I got the opportunity to buy one I couldn't pass it up!

I have yet to do the ground mods but put it on the back burner because it was rock solid electronically. But I'll do them and see if it makes a difference.

Other problems are more of a physical nature, like the ball often getting stuck behind the drop target in front of the ramp, stuck behind the right ramp flap and stuck to the left of the lower pop bumper. I feel like the game is a bit sluggish in general, as if the playfield pitch is incorrect, but it is set to 6" with the rear levelers as far as they will go (legs are stock, even the spacers are still on there). Again, I don't know what it should play like

koen12344
My TX is sitting at 6.5⁰. Rear legs are 72.5 cm tall from tip to tip (just the legs. Not with the levelers). Front legs are 69.5 cm long. I am not 100% sure I have the correct legs though, as my TX sits much higher than my other machines (and 1 cm higher than my identical 80B game Robo-War).

The ball should not be able to get stuck behind the right ramp. My machine has a few wire rails in there to keep the ball from getting near the ramp. Maybe take a picture of what you are seeing.

Also, it seems not possible on my machine for a ball to get stuck behind the big drop target in front of the left ramp. Is your drop target centered in the slot? The back of my aftermarket clear drop target is too thick to allow the ball to fall into the slot.

My TX also has the problem of a ball getting stuck near the left lower pop bumper. Maybe a different style post here is the solution.

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Has anyone successfully removed mylar on a TX? I am shopping my machine and I'd really like to pull the mylar off because it is quite hazy. I am afraid of losing artwork or insert lettering.

Thanks

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Try polishing it with the 3M Headlight Restore kit first. That might brighten it up enough for you to tolerate it, and you won't risk anything.

koen12344
The reason for the ball getting stuck behind the right ramp is that your ramp is too low. I had this issue on mine as well. On mine, someone had reinstalled the ramp at some point using the wrong spacers so the ramp ended up being too low for the ball to pass under it. I had to swap the spacer used at the left rear edge of the main ramp for the one mounted close to where your ball is getting stuck. After I swapped them the ball has plenty of room.

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I used freeze method with great success

DuffysArcade Its getting stuck behind the entry flap on the ramp itself.. With the crooked shots I make because of the weak flippers, it enters the ramp too slowly and gets stuck there sometimes.

On mine all legs are 69cm, maybe I have the wrong legs on the rear of the machine? And its indeed sitting higher than the WMS/Bally machines on the front. I'll double check the playfield pitch and maybe try some larger legs in the rear.

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Looks like you need to tweak the flap down a little bit with a slight bend to make it match the contour of the ramp. You can also shave the front edge of the ramp trough lip down a bit to make it sit a little closer to the playfield.

I removed the mylar on mine with a heat gun. Tried the freeze spray method and it didn't budge.
The Mylar on mine was so far gone it had to come off.
I did have some paint loss in the process. Not all the paint loss you see is due to the Mylar removal as there was a considerable amount already missing around the ball drop. I ended up having it restored and clear coated by Keith Holbrook.
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Got a TX Sector and like it a lot! Nice clean playfield and almost no scratches to the cabinet.

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Congrats! Awesome game that is quite rare to find. I bought mine in Germany 1 year ago and have seen no others for sale in Netherlands, Germany or Belgium since. I recommend doing the ground modifications. That has made my TX and Robo-War both very reliable.

Very nice Tx. I just finished shopping mine after it sat for 2 years. Glad to have one back in my lineup after I sold the first one I had.

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Signing in as Member

Last week DuffysArcade told me there was a TX up for sale in Germany. Decided it had to go to Holland .. and went for a 4,5 hour drive to pick it up.
It is in a total origal state with all board with original serial number.
Playfield and cabinet in very nice state.. not new, but practically unscratched.

Putted on the legs and played it. Immediately deciding that the TX and RW stay for a LONG time

Immediately took out the fluorescent tube and put a led in.
Tonight changed some lights in to led. The GI is still to do and will and some bendies in it.

Her are some pics. Have some small mods coming up..
Cheers, and a shout out to John for the notification about the add.

FTN_Ferry

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