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Quoted from Pin_Guy:This board is a superior to the Two-Bits board as the voltage rail on top of the board is far enough from the mounting screws that you will not need to use insulating washers to mount the board; if you are building this board, you will want to use the 5mm LEDS.
If building the Two-bits board get the 3mm LEDs.
Is this the only difference in superiority?
I might begin to tackle fully populating my two bits boards. Is it safe to say the locations and component values (resistors caps etc) are 100% accurate in the excel worksheet and I do not need to cross reference with WPC89 schematic? @Pin_Guy? Again thank you for providing that document. Made ordering everything a breeze.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Yes, the list has been verified, you will want to buy the 3mm LEDS for D19-D21 for the TwoBits board
you rock!
Almost done with mine. Maybe had like only few spurts of a few hours to complete this over several months. It was fun I must admit. Getting in a solder routine where the perfect amount of time/ solder produces perfect solder and component side fillets is thrilling! Well maybe not thrilling but satisfying.
Thought I ordered everything but obviously not. I originally just purchased the non ic parts and then some and some must have been forgotten about.
Nvram is coming, cpu from k’s arcade and 1 more mouser order.
Let’s just hope it boots lol.
B6EB5E72-83D2-4DB0-A307-654218ACBA44 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pin_Guy:VERY NICE! It looks almost exactly like mine I do like the attention to detail in orientating all of the resistor color codes in the proper direction, top-bottom and left-right
SIDE NOTE: I'm not sure if you did this or not, but I found it's easier and cleaner to remove all of the header key pins prior to installing them in the board as it's super easy to just pull the pins out of the new header with a pair of pliers.
I just clip the pin at the base on the connector side with a very sharp pair of flush cutters. On the board side I solder the pin anyway for good measure.
It boots!!!! Solid d21 and blinking d20.
All I can really do is use a logic proble to check if stuff is strobing etc? Do not have any switch matrix test gear or anything.
Now I can attempt to fix the original board. There are some blown out traces from prior repairs. I don’t have to touch those areas and they seem to be holding up just fine.
69FDE500-8421-43D4-AA1A-59CC3694C1A4 (resized).jpegBDFB1CF4-2984-4E99-AF19-5C3D08196734 (resized).jpegC78578B4-B096-4CEF-89D9-DE6ADA8B298B (resized).jpegYou're currently viewing posts by Pinsider langless28.
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Tyngsborough, MA