(Topic ID: 211291)

Two Bits Dash 35 Build

By JT-Pinball

6 years ago


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    #8 6 years ago
    Quoted from JT-Pinball:

    Well got most of the Valid Power Detector in. Wound up putting a couple capacitors in other circuits just because it was convenient because I had them out. I’ll try to post pics later. My build sheet calls for a 2K 1/2 watt resistor at R113 and R16. I only have 2.2k 1/2 watt so ordered 2k 1/2 watt. My schematic are from Xenon and they do not show 1/2 watt there. Got 2 k 1/4 watt. Got a few parts board and few working MPU sitting here and they all have 1/4 watt. This some upgrade or just the build sheet I have?

    2.2K 1/2W for both R113 and R16 is fine. You want even values for a 50% divide. 2.2K will be close enough, but less precise and bonus of using less energy.

    you want half watt resistors because at 2K the resistors would be using about 0.22w which is too close to a 1/4w rating. If the resistors do start to burn open they can go in a way that ends up killing u14 with over voltage.

    For ease and speed of assembly it works best for me to stuff parts smallest to biggest and them in steps by component type. Stuff all the caps then solder them. Stuff all the resistors then solder them. Then the diodes, etc...

    #15 6 years ago
    Quoted from Grizlyrig:

    @ barakandl , When building a board like this for example, is there any side effects or problems with the idea of using 1/2 watt resistors where it would call for 1/4 watt?
    Keeping the same resistance value of course.
    -Mike

    The resistor might not physically fit. Higher power rating is usually larger in size.

    power ratings on a resistor is a maximum. They work up to that power rating before they self destruct.

    If both resistors are 2000 ohm the resistor divide is 50/50 so there will be about 21v across each 2000 ohm resistor.

    (V²) / R = Power (watts)

    (21²) / 2000 = 0.2205W

    a "quarter watt" resistor =0.25W.

    Seems best to overshoot resistors power ratings by at least 50% to avoid it burning over time. It is common to see R16 and R113 burned on the bally MPU. No other 1/4w resistor on the bally MPU needs upgrading.

    The 82ohm 2W resistor can be eliminated by using NVRAM and jumpering CR5 and CR7. That sucker burns up too. I would use at least a 3w resistor there. 5w gets a little tight.

    Knowing the that 12v unreg supply commonly reads as high as 16v...

    (16²) / 82 = 3.12W

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    2 weeks later
    #22 6 years ago
    Quoted from JT-Pinball:

    Yes I realized that C81 was missing. I installed it prior to testing the board. Seems I have one last issue. I got board installed in a game. Hot Hand in this instance. I had a Bally -35 in the game so I set the new board up the same way. Game boots and enters attract. Plays fine except the score and credit displays all roll. Didn't do it before so I know it is not the displays. All data on displays is correct. I am guessing this is an issue with blanking or zero cross? Guess I will have to run a few more test. Anyone thoughts?

    The 555 timer circuit creates a display interrupt pulse around 320-360hz. That pulse tells the CPU to update the displays. You can check that signal with a frequency count feature on a DMM. It is labeled as "DISPLAY INTERRUPT" on the schematics, goes to a PIA port.

    Rolling displays is usually a power supply issue. Last time I saw it a lead of the 230v filter cap had broke loose.

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