(Topic ID: 181548)

Twilight Zone: what items to bullet proof?

By nosro

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by usandthem
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

I am looking forward to getting a stock Twilight Zone. I want to bullet proof this right away and prevent problems. What can you recommend?

Here's an updated list of suggestions below:
1) Cliffy set (http://www.passionforpinball.com/tz.htm)
2) NOT RECOMMENDED Trifurcon pins for the GI illumination connector (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wpc-burnt-gi-connector-pre-emptive-repair#post-3613866)
3) Pinball Resource enhanced stand-up targets for the Greed (near scoop) and Clock (between ramp entrances) targets. (http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm)
4) Clock board replacement (either http://www.rottendog.us/CLK001.html or http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html )
5) Pinbits Magna-Flip sign reinforcement (http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_2&products_id=133&zenid=7276bf78fb3d2fd73f30b947b43c9903)
6) Update to the 9.4H ROM (http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/wpc.html)
7) Cabinet-leg protectors (http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711) and cabinet-button protectors (http://littleshopofgames.com/product/williams-bally-cabinet-flipper-button-clear-protector-kit/)
8 ) Plastic protectors (http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_2&products_id=153)
9) Mini-playfield switches (http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/index.html?http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/tzmpskit2.html)
10) Eliminate Z-connector (http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Poor_Connections_between_the_Power.2FDriver_board.2C_the_CPU.2C_and_other_PCBs)

#2 7 years ago

Just to be clear, I'm not looking for gameplay mods or bling - just protective and preventive changes.

#3 7 years ago

NVRAM and replace the electrolytic caps...

#4 7 years ago

Stern style leg spacers to protect decals.

#5 7 years ago

A good cleaning, new balls, and a good wax job is a must.

#6 7 years ago

LEDs will reduce power and heat.

#7 7 years ago

do not get the rottendog clock board, only get the German board from Ingo. The clock is the weak point on the game at this age. the stand up target next to the slot scoop also should be replaced and maybe the clock target between the ramps too. not much else needs bullet proofing, though it seems the proximity boards, which recognize the powerball can be an issue, though luckily I have not had that problem. Make sure you can consistently lock a ball, some games get a lot of rejects, but there is an easy and cheap fix. Great game, a dialed in one is a true masterpiece.

#8 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

do not get the rottendog clock board, only get the German board from Ingo.

Any particular reason?

#9 7 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

Any particular reason?

yes, it is bullet proof. the design, engineering and construction are second to none and Ingo is great to deal with. Plus he gives you rainbow LEDs along with other colors so you can change if you want. The rottendog boards fail, Ingo's doesn't I have no affiliation with Ingo, other than I own his board, as do many pinsiders.

#10 7 years ago

And do not put NVRAM in it. Get an external battery holder if you're THAT forgetful and worried about battery leakage.

#11 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

And do not put NVRAM in it. Get an external battery holder if you're THAT forgetful and worried about battery leakage.

right. NVRAM won't allow the clock to keep the correct time when the game is in attract mode, if you cared about such a thing.

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#12 7 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

I want to bullet proof this right away and prevent problems. What can you recommend?

Eliminate the Z connector to help keep 5v high.

#13 7 years ago
Quoted from RoyF:

Eliminate the Z connector to help keep 5v high.

I have not heard of this. Which Z connector?

#14 7 years ago

I'd protect the slings with washers/plastic protectors. For some reason I've broken more slings on TZ than anything else. Likely because the airballs from the the slot standup ... which despite adding the PBR reinforced targets you will still get airballs... Probably the coil power to target proximity factor ... or something like that.

Enjoy your TZ man ... I'll never sell mine.

#15 7 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

I have not heard of this. Which Z connector?

See reference to the "Z" connector in this section of Pinwiki: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

#16 7 years ago

Thanks for all the input. I am updating the first post with all the suggestions in the hope that this will be useful for someone else in the future.

#17 7 years ago

I can vouch for the Ingo clock board. It is very easy to install. He gives you great directions. I currently the rainbow LEDs. I will switch to the blue LEDs in the spring. Ingo is great to deal with.
Fast delivery. Very high quality.

#18 7 years ago

Another vote for the Ingo clock board. It actually fixes the signal processing error inherent to the WIlliams design that causes the failures to begin with.

Cliffy set is a great idea, but in home use is not 100% mandatory, except for the Rocket kicker slot. But a full set is good for peace of mind, if nothing else.

Pinbits protector set is great and looks fantastic installed. Just make sure to get all the sides nice and even for a clean, professional look.

If you can solder halfway decent, I'd suggest the GLM mini switch kit for the mini playfield. It's just as good for looks as it is for function. The major benefit to it is that you can adjust the sensitivity of the switches by way of tension on the rubbers and really dial in how hard you want the ball to hit the rubbers to register a hit/points.

If you do put new decals on, the Stern style leg protectors are the way to go.

If you have issues with the trough sensor, switch 26, you may just want to solder the wires directly to the board. Works for a lot of us and is reversible in case you want to put it back to stock for some reason.

I'll have to go home and look mine over for anything else. Mine's been solid for a couple years now after fixing lots of stuff. Even got played in a tournament at a show without issues(that I know of, they may have fixed them on the spot).

#20 7 years ago

I would replace ribbon cables as well if they are original.

#21 7 years ago
Quoted from pinballplusMN:

I would replace ribbon cables as well if they are original.

pinballplusMN Is there a good place to get replacement ribbon cables?

#22 7 years ago

TZ is the only game I've had twice and the game itself is pretty bullet proof, except for that damn clock. Find a TZ with wear anywhere on the playfield after thousands and thousands of plays. Amazing how the "tech" of playfield protection was somehow better 24 years ago than it is now.

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