(Topic ID: 237324)

Twilight Zone (TZ) proximity sensor / switch 26 clarification

By Phantasize

5 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Pin_Guy
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

Hello everyone

Last night my TZ decided to stop sensing the powerball in the trough. And it gave me a switch 26 error.

I have been searching the internet, and reading up on the issue, but there is something i think i need clarified.

In my case the red LED on the driver board is constantly on. I then read in another thread on pinside that if i removed the connector to the sensor (coil) board and the LED was still on, this would mean that my driver board was fried. And when i disconnected the sensor board from the driver board, the LED stayed on. So i guess my driver board is shot...? Or is it...?

I wanted to check if the same was true for my working ToM. And this is where i got confused... On my ToM the LED is off until a ball passes the sensor. But if i disconnect the sensor board, the LED actually turns on. So it seems that if the "loop is open" the LED also turns on? And if this is true for TZ as well, the fault could just as easily be with the cable or coil on the sensor board?

So can anyone confirm: If i disconnect the sensor board from my TZ's driver board - should the LED be on or off?

Hope all of the above makes sense despite my poor english

#2 5 years ago

...and does anyone happen to know the resistance of the sensor coil? That would also be really helpful info.

#3 5 years ago

I forget if it is on by default or off. Regardless, it should change when a steel ball is near the sensor. If it is always on, try adjusting the sensor closer to the ball. I've had to adjust mine quite a bit. You can also check the other proximity sensor in the subway as a reference to how it should work.

#4 5 years ago

Thank you for your input.

I know that it is supposed to be off by default, and then switch to on when a steel ball is registered.

What i would like to know is, if the LED should be on or off when i completely disconnect the sensor board?

#5 5 years ago

LED should be off if you've disconnected the sensor board completely.

The likelihood is your driver board is faulty.

#6 5 years ago

Ok. In that case the board in ToM must be different, because on that board the led lights up when the sensor board is disconnected.

#7 5 years ago

OK, i just had another TZ owner confirm, and when disconnecting his sensor board from the driver board, the LED indeed turns ON. So that means that it has the exact same behavior as i expected, and that my RS and ToM also have.

So either there are differences from TZ to TZ that causes this, or the posts saying the LED should be OFF when the sensor is disconnected, are based on wrong information.

So i guess i will start by checking all connections between the driver and sensor board.

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

OK, i just had another TZ owner confirm, and when disconnecting his sensor board from the driver board, the LED indeed turns ON. So that means that it has the exact same behavior as i expected, and that my RS and ToM also have.
So either there are differences from TZ to TZ that causes this, or the posts saying the LED should be OFF when the sensor is disconnected, are based on wrong information.
So i guess i will start by checking all connections between the driver and sensor board.

THey may be talking about two different plugs, honestly.
If they're talking about the TWO PIN plug, the LED will stay on.
If they're talking about the FOUR PIN plug, it'll go out, since the power is getting cut to it.

#9 5 years ago

True, that could be it.

But I understand why it would be easy to assume that if the sensor (2 pin plug) is disconnected, of course the led would be OFF, since it would not be able to sense the ball (or any other metal). But the fact is that the LED actually turns on when the loop is open.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

True, that could be it.
But I understand why it would be easy to assume that if the sensor (2 pin plug) is disconnected, of course the led would be OFF, since it would not be able to sense the ball (or any other metal). But the fact is that the LED actually turns on when the loop is open.

This is correct.
In simplified terms, this is because it's an induction sensor. The circuitry on the controller board is sending a frequency out to the coil board. There are capacitors on the controller filter out these frequencies. When metal gets in front of the sensor, it adjusts the return frequency on the controller board, which then is detected and the switch output is activated. With the *sensor* unplugged, the frequency returned is different (some frequency is returned, as there are caps between the source and feed) so the controller board activates the switch output.

#11 5 years ago

Apologies, I misread your question and in so doing gave you the wrong advice As ever Coyote has the right info

#12 5 years ago

Thats great info, and in that case it all makes sense.

Thank you for elaborating.

And no problem about the wrong advise. It can be hard sometimes to explain an issue in a language other than your native one. But that is what is so great about a community like this - the amount of knowledge and people willing to help out there is just awesome!!

Guess I'll have to pull out the sensor tomorrow and check all of the connections. I measured the resistance of the coil, through the 2 pin connector to the sensor board. It measured 1.1 ohms. That seems a little low?

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Apologies, I misread your question and in so doing gave you the wrong advice As ever Coyote has the right info

It's okay! I'm always considered the 'sensor' to be the whole unit, and not just the coil, honestly. (In which case, then, you would be right! )

Quoted from Phantasize:

Thats great info, and in that case it all makes sense.
Thank you for elaborating.
And no problem about the wrong advise. It can be hard sometimes to explain an issue in a language other than your native one. But that is what is so great about a community like this - the amount of knowledge and people willing to help out there is just awesome!!
Guess I'll have to pull out the sensor tomorrow and check all of the connections. I measured the resistance of the coil, through the 2 pin connector to the sensor board. It measured 1.1 ohms. That seems a little low?

The trough sensor has a few recommended fixes, as from-factory, it's always a little flaky.

The two main points would be to:
1. Twist the red/black wires that feed the coil board. This helps interference to the frequency.
2. Remove the plugs and connectors, and hard-solder the red/black wires to both the controller board and the sensor board. This will ensuire that the IDC connections don't get loose and make a bad connection and cause the board to activate.

1 month later
#14 5 years ago

I forgot to update this post.

But it was indeed my driver board that was shot. A new TDA chip and it was working again.

So for others looking for info about the LED on/off as discussed here, i can confirm that when working correctly, and you disconnect the 2 wires to the sensor board, the LED should turn ON!

4 months later
#15 4 years ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

A new TDA chip and it was working again.

Can you elaborate?

I'm in the same boat here, found that one post that said if the LED stays on, the sensor board is dead. Which is not the case if I'm reading the right. I haven't done the twist and solder yet, hoping like hell that's it.

TDA chip? Where what how?

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from plankalkul:

Can you elaborate?
I'm in the same boat here, found that one post that said if the LED stays on, the sensor board is dead. Which is not the case if I'm reading the right. I haven't done the twist and solder yet, hoping like hell that's it.
TDA chip? Where what how?

Look at the schematics for the controller board. That's where the TDA chip is.

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from plankalkul:

I'm in the same boat here, found that one post that said if the LED stays on, the sensor board is dead.

This is not correct as this is exactly what you will see with and connection break to the sensor (inductor)
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