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(Topic ID: 203705)

Twilight Zone: Switch matrix issues-RESOLVED!


By Seatmandan

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by apscarpelli
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IMG_4173.JPG
IMG_4172.JPG
IMG_2187 (resized).JPG
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WPC89 CPU compnt-side ZAZ FEB2017-10 column7.jpg
CPU-TZ-lower (resized).JPG
switch mat-tz (resized).JPG

#1 2 years ago

Just recently I started having a strange issue with my TZ. during gameplay, the optos on column 7 stop working. these are the auto-fire kicker ball detector optos, the load gumball ball detector optos, right ramp enter optos, and both top and bottom mini playfield exits optos. In addition, the 2 playfield leaf targets for the millions at the pop bumpers stop as well. Basically, the entire column. this causes the autofire kicker as well as the gumball load popper to keep firing nonstop. When I go into the error report, it states "ball popper opto is stuck"

Now, I've done some investigating, and the problem seems to be linked to the connector plug at J206. If I press on the plug while in switch edge test, I hear the beeps as if the switches start to work again. when I release my finger pressure, it beeps again, and stop working. The games CPU had previous battery leakage damage before I bought it, and appeared to have abatement work done. It's worked fine for the last year and a half and just started acting up.

Now, I had this problem show up a week ago, and I temporarily fixed it by re-seating all plug connectors in the backbox. It has popped back up!

Is the problem in the CPU board, or could it be in the 10-opto PCB under the playfield?

All help is appreciated! -Dan

switch mat-tz (resized).JPG

CPU-TZ-lower (resized).JPG

#2 2 years ago

Make sure it's not the IDC connector, and that you don't have loose wires in the connector itself.

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Make sure it's not the IDC connector, and that you don't have loose wires in the connector itself.

I went through and re-seated the IDC wires in the connector, and it seems good. I think that the pressing on the connector to trip the switch row on or off was in the pin header, but still not 100% sure. Could the IDC connector sleeves buried in the plastic that slide onto each pin (8 of them) be bad?

#4 2 years ago

You can perform a continuity test to be sure the traces aren't corroded.
Column 7 is highlighted in picture but the same route can be measured on the other 7 columns.
WPC89 CPU compnt-side ZAZ FEB2017-10 column7.jpg

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I went through and re-seated the IDC wires in the connector, and it seems good. I think that the pressing on the connector to trip the switch row on or off was in the pin header, but still not 100% sure. Could the IDC connector sleeves buried in the plastic that slide onto each pin (8 of them) be bad?

Check Zaaza's continuity test, and then check for cold-solder joints, as well.

It will only by the 10 opto board if - when the switches all go dark, the Upper Left 5 Mil target does NOT respond. If it DOES respond, then the opto board's dropping out of the circuit. (Losing power, etc.) Though, pressing on the MPU won't change that, so the opto board is likely fine.

#6 2 years ago

Zaza/Coyote, thanks for the feedback so quick! I will check more into it tonight.

Quoted from Coyote:

It will only by the 10 opto board if - when the switches all go dark, the Upper Left 5 Mil target does NOT respond. If it DOES respond, then the opto board's dropping out of the circuit. (Losing power, etc.) Though, pressing on the MPU won't change that, so the opto board is likely fine.

Coyote,

Yeah, I'm thinking the problem is definitely at the CPU column connector, or the traces back to the U20. when the column fails, ALL the switches on that column fail including the 2 millions target switches. (middle left 5 million at 77 and Upper left 5 million at 78) This board has a bunch of jumpers installed in this area previously by a former owner to deal with the acid damage I believe. I can update with photos later.

#7 2 years ago

Okay, then it's not the opto board, you can rule that right out.

#8 2 years ago

Is it possible that the power driver board could in some way be creating this issue?

#9 2 years ago

No - that would affect the WHOLE switch matrix, not just a single column.

#10 2 years ago

Gotcha. Another note- I can't seem to find the part number for the 9-pin IDC plug. I can find the pin header but not the plug. do you know the part number for it? Is it this one? (9-pin in list)

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=68

#11 2 years ago

UPDATE:

After investigating the CPU board, I discovered there were TWO problems that I needed to fix.

1.) the J206 Pin header had a faulted Pin 7. Replaced the CPU with a rottendog (also upgraded my ROM from L4 to 9.4H) This fixed the faulted pin
2.) The J206/7 9-pin connector had a bad connector inside of the number 5 pin. Didn't realize it, but this column was also out.

Fixed both of these issues (replaced connector/replaced CPU) Twilight Zone is back to normal!!!
ALSO: 9.4H is a great update to L4

dropped some coin on the new board, but wanted one anyway. Also, I will eventually be sending the OEM board out to be looked at/repaired.

Repairs were already made, this board had acid damage in it's history with who knows how many blown out traces. See pictures

IMG_2188 (resized).JPG

IMG_2187 (resized).JPG

#12 2 years ago

Looks like the alkali damage was never fully neutralised and is causing issues again. The battery holder is also starting to corrode - get that replaced as well!

#13 2 years ago

Install Lithium batteries on your TZ MPU so it will keep the time for 5+ years without worry of them leaking. For your TOTAN and IJ, I would have NVRAM installed since there is not a midnight madness mode on them so you don't need the time/date to work.

1 year later
#14 1 year ago

Guys I have switch 73 check right ramp not working. I replaced the optos and did not fix the problem. I thought that was the problem. See J206/207 connector. Not sure the wires are in the connector in the right order? J206 causes PF exit to error out as well on top of right ramp error 73.

IMG_4172.JPGIMG_4173.JPG
#15 1 year ago

If the wires were in the wrong order, you would have a LOT MORE issues than just that one or two switches.

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

If the wires were in the wrong order, you would have a LOT MORE issues than just that one or two switches.

Looking for an answer....... Where do i start with check right ramp 73..... I messed with one of the optos before replacing and it worked fine for a while and now that I am trying to sell it the optos don't read the ball going into mini PF. Kills the whole game and the only error code on this.

#17 1 year ago

Well, in switch test, does the opto show open or closed?
If closed, when you wave your hand between the sensor, does it switch at all?

If it's open, then the opto (or receiver) is not getting it's power/signal from the Opto Driver board. Could be a broken wire, bad crimp on the pligs on the opto board, or a bad LM339 on the opto board. (Or, the opto could just be dead.)

If it's closed, and it opens when you wave your hand through it, then.. well, it's working.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Well, in switch test, does the opto show open or closed?
If closed, when you wave your hand between the sensor, does it switch at all?
If it's open, then the opto (or receiver) is not getting it's power/signal from the Opto Driver board. Could be a broken wire, bad crimp on the pligs on the opto board, or a bad LM339 on the opto board. (Or, the opto could just be dead.)
If it's closed, and it opens when you wave your hand through it, then.. well, it's working.

Not sure if open or closed, if the square is already there or not. When waiving my fingers thru it does nothing. Square comes and disappears on Power PF exit. Quickly looked at Opto board under PF and I suspect something there. J2 was labeled and resistor on the board looked like it had been soldered on. Will take it off tomorrow for a more thorough inspection.

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