(Topic ID: 331139)

Twilight Zone Resets

By garavamll

1 year ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by FathomPin
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

I have had a nice TZ for years.. about 4 years ago, had the infamous resets when hitting a flipper.. Replaced both BRs on the WPC driver board and all was good for 3 years.. started resetting again this past fall and I replaced the BRs again... All good...

Until this past week.. Back to resetting.. Sigh..

Before I just throw 2 more BRs in it.. should I also replace the caps? Which caps? What else might be going on?

Thanks,

Michael

#2 1 year ago

Please go through the reset check list.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Game_resets

I wouldn't touch those caps. Unless you are an expert at board repair. Otherwise you'll F up through hole continuity and have stuff under the caps you can't see or easily repair.

LTG : )

#3 1 year ago

Odds are good it's the headers and connectors. When you took the board out to replace the bridge rectifiers, you also disconnected and re-seated the connectors. You changed TWO variables without realizing it thinking that it was the one (obvious) variable that you changed (the replacement of the bridge rectifiers).

Always replace both the headers and connectors at the same time. Fix 100% of the connection surface, not 50%.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Odds are good it's the headers and connectors. When you took the board out to replace the bridge rectifiers, you also disconnected and re-seated the connectors. You changed TWO variables without realizing it thinking that it was the one (obvious) variable that you changed (the replacement of the bridge rectifiers).
Always replace both the headers and connectors at the same time. Fix 100% of the connection surface, not 50%.

Thanks for the tip.. which headers and connectors tho? There are like 25

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Please go through the reset check list.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Game_resets
I wouldn't touch those caps. Unless you are an expert at board repair. Otherwise you'll F up through hole continuity and have stuff under the caps you can't see or easily repair.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd! Will check out. I know that those caps are a B to get out!

#6 1 year ago

My guess was s those BR’s were always fine and your problem is the z connector in your power harness

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

My guess was s those BR’s were always fine and your problem is the z connector in your power harness

Could be... will need to test them to see.. Will read up on the Z connector ? happy to check and/or replace headers/connectors. thx

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from garavamll:

Thanks for the tip.. which headers and connectors tho? There are like 25

The ones that are responsible for AC input (transformer secondary) and DC output (distribution) for digital logic.

  • J101 - AC input (transformer secondary)
  • J114 - DC output (distribution)

+5V is also available at J116/J117/J118 but it is usually only the DMC that consumes the +5V from these headers.

The "Z" connector is also a valid failure point. You can inspect the (header) pins of the "Z" connector and look for tarnishing.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from garavamll:

Could be... will need to test them to see.. Will read up on the Z connector ? happy to check and/or replace headers/connectors. thx

I believe the Z connector sits between J114 on the driver board and j210 on the cpu board. I removed that z connector and directly splice those wires together on both of my TZ's to elminate a reset issue I had with both of them.

#10 1 year ago

If you'd like to send your driver board and MPU to me, I can do as much as is possible with the boards alone to avoid resets.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#11 1 year ago

If you'd like to send your driver board and MPU to me, I can do as much as is possible with the boards alone to avoid resets.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Used Chris’s services many times. Outstanding communication, fast turnaround, and very professional. A few months ago he did this exact service on the original boards for my STTNG for the same reset issue. Machine performance has been flawless ever since his repairs.

#12 1 year ago
If you'd like to send your driver board and MPU to me, I can do as much as is possible with the boards alone to avoid resets.
--

Do this. I have used Chris’s services many times. A few months ago he did the exact same service on my STTNG for the same reset problems. The machine is now bulletproof and plays flawlessly.

Great communication, very professional, very skilled, and very fair prices.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

If you'd like to send your driver board and MPU to me, I can do as much as is possible with the boards alone to avoid resets.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Used Chris’s services many times. He recently did exactly this repair to the original boards on my STTNG for the same problem. The machine is bulletproof and plays flawlessly.

Highly skilled, very professional. Communicates really well and fees are very fair.

3 weeks later
#14 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

My guess was/is those BR’s were always fine and your problem is the z connector in your power harness

Thanks for the tip on the Z-connector, I'm not sure I've ever noticed it in my ongoing search for the weak connections.

I have found connector issues in all areas of electronics and service people are replacing parts when only the connections are in need of repair. For me, I tweak every connector that has "fat" wires indicating power delivery instead of signal and the resetting issue is resolved for a month or so, but I hear replacing those connectors is the way pros fix it. This harkens back to the age-old discussion of who is truly restoring pinball machines like a pro and who is just tweaking them.

#15 1 year ago

Chopping out the Z connector and soldering the wires together fixed all my TZ reset problems.

It's shrink tubing time, baby.

9 months later
#16 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Please go through the reset check list.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Game_resets
I wouldn't touch those caps. Unless you are an expert at board repair. Otherwise you'll F up through hole continuity and have stuff under the caps you can't see or easily repair.
LTG : )

For resetting issues on my TZ, I have always had good luck re-seating power connectors (IN THE BACKBOX). The checklist LTG suggests helped me find a weak connection IN THE BOTTOM CABINET. My pin had the game resetting a lot, even after trying everything upstairs, so I knew it had to be something in the bottom cabinet, there are only three to clean up and reseat.

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