(Topic ID: 16040)

Twilight Zone Repair Question

By Matt1724

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by Matt1724
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 11 years ago

Hello everyone

Last week I bought a Twilight Zone and we’ve been playing it regularly with no problems. Today, I come down to a bunch of errors relating to the mini playfield, so I open the manual and see it’s controlled by the high power driver “A-16116”. I opened the pin and that board appears discolored “black powder’sh” on the top and bottom.

After cleaning the board and inspecting it and I didn’t see anything wrong physically (no I don’t have a DMM yet, but I will soon). I plug the board in and was shocked when I didn’t receive the errors and the mini playfield passed the tests. Hooray…(I thought)

So I get ready to play again and missed the skill shot and down the shoot the ball goes and that’s where it stayed.

Evidently Solenoids 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 8 are down while solenoids 4 and 7 work normally. These are most of the kickers and poppers which explains why the ball stayed down. They’re all powered by the Power Driver Board connected at J130 (1-9). No fuses are blown, so I can’t figure out why solenoid 4 (popper) and 8 (knocker) would work, while the others are dead and also why the machine is passing all tests at startup.

I know black’sh powder on any board is not a good sign which leads me right back to the “high power Driver at A-16116 but I can’t understand why the mini playfield works if that’s the case and why I’m not receiving errors.

Can someone with a Twilight Zone manual look at pages 3-14 and 3-15 and confirm or deny that Solenoids 1-8 are controlled by board A-16116 before I send this out for repair please.

This is my first pin and thus my first attempt of tech support and repair on a pin….so be kind…

Matt

#2 11 years ago

I just read a article about flipper dust and that it conductive and could cause a short, seeing that this board is within a few inches of the flipper maybe that was the black residue i whipped off the board and the flipper dust caused a short initially. Cleaning the board explains why the mini-playfield started working again but not the loss of solenoids.

#4 11 years ago

I checked the fuses and they all appear ok, but I agree with you and will change them anyway. Dumb question but is there a difference between the fuses sold online that say "pinball use only" compared to the ones I can pick up at local radio shack?

#5 11 years ago

Don't just replace them. Get a meter and check them.

In particular check F105, F104, F103 and F112. ( F105 is likely your bad one )

No such thing as pinball only, these are slow blow fuses and get the right AMP rating.

LTG

#6 11 years ago

+1 on checking with a dmm, Often times a visual check is not enough and even if a fuse looks ok it could be blown.

#7 11 years ago

I've got the DMM now, and I'm ready to check some fuses when I get home.

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from Matt1724:

Hello everyone
Last week I bought a Twilight Zone and we’ve been playing it regularly with no problems. Today, I come down to a bunch of errors relating to the mini playfield, so I open the manual and see it’s controlled by the high power driver “A-16116”. I opened the pin and that board appears discolored “black powder’sh” on the top and bottom.
After cleaning the board and inspecting it and I didn’t see anything wrong physically (no I don’t have a DMM yet, but I will soon). I plug the board in and was shocked when I didn’t receive the errors and the mini playfield passed the tests. Hooray…(I thought)
So I get ready to play again and missed the skill shot and down the shoot the ball goes and that’s where it stayed.
Evidently Solenoids 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 8 are down while solenoids 4 and 7 work normally. These are most of the kickers and poppers which explains why the ball stayed down. They’re all powered by the Power Driver Board connected at J130 (1-9). No fuses are blown, so I can’t figure out why solenoid 4 (popper) and 8 (knocker) would work, while the others are dead and also why the machine is passing all tests at startup.
I know black’sh powder on any board is not a good sign which leads me right back to the “high power Driver at A-16116 but I can’t understand why the mini playfield works if that’s the case and why I’m not receiving errors.
Can someone with a Twilight Zone manual look at pages 3-14 and 3-15 and confirm or deny that Solenoids 1-8 are controlled by board A-16116 before I send this out for repair please.
This is my first pin and thus my first attempt of tech support and repair on a pin….so be kind…
Matt

You're saying 4 and 7 work? If F105 was bad, 4 and 7 wouldn't be working. So it's not the fuse.

Inspect J130 (9pin connector) and the cable on the power driver board. Burnt, cracks or cold solder on the pins. Also, J107 pin3 (violet-yellow) it feeds 50v. Same thing, burnt, cracks or cold solder on the pins. They all feed those coils.

Also what did you clean that board with? Compressed air I hope?

#9 11 years ago

Confirmed with the DMM that the volts were good, checked for burned connectors and bad pins and replaced all fuses anyway. Then, I started retracing and gently tugging the wires of all the effected solenoids and sure enough one popped off with the slightest tug (01 slot kickout).... I soldered it this afternoon and that was it...just a wire hanging on thread causing me all this grief.

Thanks you all the help and suggestions.

If you have any advice for what a first time pin owner should do for routine maintenance on a street rescued pin, I’m all ears. I’m going to change the batteries now as I don’t know how old they are.

Thank again,

Matt

#10 11 years ago
Quoted from Matt1724:

Confirmed with the DMM that the volts were good, checked for burned connectors and bad pins and replaced all fuses anyway. Then, I started retracing and gently tugging the wires of all the effected solenoids and sure enough one popped off with the slightest tug (01 slot kickout).... I soldered it this afternoon and that was it...just a wire hanging on thread causing me all this grief.
Thanks you all the help and suggestions.
If you have any advice for what a first time pin owner should do for routine maintenance on a street rescued pin, I’m all ears. I’m going to change the batteries now as I don’t know how old they are.
Thank again,
Matt

Nice, I'm looking at page 3-6 of the manual and retracing it. Good catch.

#11 11 years ago
Quoted from Matt1724:

Confirmed with the DMM that the volts were good, checked for burned connectors and bad pins and replaced all fuses anyway. Then, I started retracing and gently tugging the wires of all the effected solenoids and sure enough one popped off with the slightest tug (01 slot kickout).... I soldered it this afternoon and that was it...just a wire hanging on thread causing me all this grief.
Thanks you all the help and suggestions.
If you have any advice for what a first time pin owner should do for routine maintenance on a street rescued pin, I’m all ears. I’m going to change the batteries now as I don’t know how old they are.
Thank again,
Matt

First tip...don't replace the batteries...move them off board by using a remote battery holder, like this one...http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1783&parent=228

Or, you can roll your own.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#12 11 years ago

Thanks, I'll get the remote battery holder ordered. Seems like an easy solution to avoid a bigger problems
.

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