I'm sure the op knows this, but check the voltage on the CPU, I'll bet it's low.

You can at first set the game software for "low line conditions", but after awhile you have to dig in and replace caps, diodes, regulator.

TZ is notoriously bad for resetting as it gets older.

Your OP will already be VERY familiar with its problems.

Yep +1 Low Voltage for sure!!!!

Joe(acejedi)

These symptoms always start when pressing the flippers (1 or both on a game that has fliptronics), but older games have the same problems. The 5V is then a bit low, and during gameplay it gets lower causing resets. Pressing the flippers causes some extra stress for the 5V.

Most of the time (90+%) replacing the capacitor for the 5V solves the problem. The bridgerectifier is also a component which needs replacing at some time. I always replace BR2/C5 when the power driver board is out anyway.

can this issue ever be from the actual power source not delivering enough juice to the machine? or would that be a 'very rare occurrence' kind of thing??

Yes; I have some older outlets in my apartment (110's) that have this issue. I find that using an extension cord from across the room and allowing the machine to idle for 20 mins upon startup will stop it from resetting. You may have to reflow the connections and change out the bridge rectifier.

Every now and than my TZ will reboot when my pool heater kicks on. My game rm is in the pool house and there is a lot of electronics between the pool ,hot tub,pinballs,and all the lighting.I never thought about what I would have running at any given time.I guess I will run a bigger service out theree some day.

The issue is you have a weak cap and of course it's bridge should be replaced at the same time. When ever the cap and bridge cannot maintain the constant level of 5 volts to the CPU board, the drop in current will reboot the machine. If you test it there will be 5v at the TP when not under a load, it's under the load the issues arrise. You can do one of two things, replace the parts yourself and order them from Great Plains Electronics or send it to a professional repair person if you feel you are not good enough to solder in the new parts, however the issues are removing the old ones as to you do not want to pull of the copper tracers on the board which becomes easier to do as the board ages.

If you need someone, I recommend Pinsider: Chris Hibler. Chris has done several repairs for me that where out of my realm of expertise, his work and prices were fantastic.

I would PM him.

Mike

If your ops are like the ones I have around me they could give 2 shits about if there games run right.

A bad power supply can be because any number of things: a gameroom full of pins 50m. away from the distibution board in your home and fed with a thin cable, then when your pool heater kicks in a large current is being drawn, resulting in voltage loss over the cable. That voltage loss is presented to the pinball machine as well and results in the same thing: a low 5V and a reset.

A heater has a lot more power (resulting in much more voltage loss) than a bit of lighting. Just see what's on the label, and add the kilowatts.

In that case: measure the voltage in the socket outlet (with full load, eg. the pool heater), and compare with the jumpers in your machine.

But normally bad connectors, bridge and capacitor are the most common cause for resetting pins.

I've played that exact TZ. When I turned off the machine next to it and let TZ sit for a while - no resets. Which seems to fit the descriptions on this board.

Thanks!

The cure will be found here...
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

And, as always, you may find it several steps before it's time to do any board work at all, which is nice...so you've got that working for ya...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info