Quoted from Seatmandan:

Each half of the gumball globe molding (front & rear) have sidewalls molded into them that separate that area from the pinball area.

Quoted from TheLaw:

...or use small screws/nuts when replacing.

Quoted from bigd1979:

Just loosen the rubber a little.

Quoted from Seatmandan:

Have you tried adjusting the switch? Remove the grey rubber cover and loosen the 2 screws and move the bottom of the switch away from mini PF until the small button pops out, then re-tighten. If the button on the microswitch is sticky (flaky) then replace the switch with a new one:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1860

Quoted from stpcore:

I'm toying with the idea of offering some alternate clock face decals for TZ. The original decal on my clock was falling off. While getting ready to order a replacement I thought about printing a new original clock face (I do vinyl decal printing).
So this is just a prototype example. I like it on my machine and thought I would ask if there would be any interest for others? It's reverse printed on removable clear vinyl with a translite diffuser. It installs in the same location as the original decal. Because it's removable vinyl you can reposition it if you miss lining it up on your first few attempts so no wasting a decal (or your money) because of a simple mistake.
This particular color scheme best matched the original clock decal colors but I can change the colors easily if you prefer something else. In addition, I will be increasing the vibrancy of these colors on final prints as this is just a first attempt.
Thanks!

Quoted from Coyote:

If the option is enabled, the clock top I can display "real time" while in attract mode..

Quoted from AlexSMendes:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amber_(color)
The color amber is a pure chroma color, located on the color wheel midway between the colors of gold and orange.
https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amber_(color)
The color Amber is a yellowish-orange color.

Quoted from Billy16:

As far as I know, this is Amber...

Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Or adjust your rocket coil... seems to be very weak....

Quoted from per3per3:

I'm hoping someone can help me out that has replaced their TZ translite. I just received and installed a new one that I bought from Little Shop of Games but they source through Planetary Pinball Supply...so it's a next gen which I was assured is just as good if not better (richer colors) than the original. Anyways, I turn the machine on and I can basically see almost every individual LED bulb shine through the translite...it doesn't look good at all. The new translite's backing almost seems translucent and it doesn't look good at all. I'm using normal one LED non-ghosting bulbs from cointaker, so it's not like I'm using ultra brights or anything out of the ordinary for backbox illumination.
Does anyone else have a next gen/PPS replacement translite and is yours like this?
Is there another supplier and is the product better?
Thanks!
P.S. It's significantly more noticeable in person vs. in the pics

Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Maybe the coil is old/weak or loose... maybe the kicker arm is not aligned...

Quoted from Sparky:

I was unloading my TZ from my truck by myself today, and I'm pretty sure I tore my right bicep and at least strained my left bicep. Just got back from Urgent Care, and I see an Orthopedic surgeon next week. Very strange hearing the sound of walking on loose gravel in my arms and watching the muscles move around under the skin like worms! I'm extremely sore tonight, and I expect to be sore all weekend. Anyone have experience with a torn, partially torn, or strained bicep (between the bicep and elbow)?

Quoted from Luppin:

thanks. ok, no set rule. but knowing the machine in depth, I believe it should be so, especially regarding the 4 combo shot, which is otherwise impossible to get intentionally. Also, that shot is not making points otherwise, and it's not otherwise relying on skills (as said, it cannot be achieved in another way apart from luck). So adding this adjustment only improve the variety of shots to the game, while is not subtracting anything to the game.
I mean, the situation is very different, for example, from the shot at Khan hole in TS with the upper right flipper. In that case you CAN normally shoot at the Khan hole with the upper right flipper: that is a shot! So modifyng the angle of the held upper flipper in order to make the Kahn hole automatically is a cheat in my opinion, because it makes the game easier.
But as explained this is not the situation in TZ, so I think this modification should be done.

Quoted from scampcamp:

At times the ball does not go in all the way & just comes back out (sometimes not) even at a good speed. Is this normal? Thanks

Quoted from scampcamp:

Why is this? Is it part of the programming? What's stopping the ball?

Quoted from Coyote:

A little background, for those *really* interested..
Originally, one of the first lock designs had no ramp there and no flap up at the far end (entrance) of the lock. The exit of the lock area was angled down-playfield. (If you look at the kickout, you'll see the red lane artwork on the playfield is still angled down like this.)
The problem with this was that balls shot into the lock would shoot around that tight corner at the entrance, and go flying into the lock. Ball speed would be to fast that the ball would then jump out of the kickout into the spiral. The lock exit was changed, to straighten it off, to stop ball bounce-outs. This didn't really work well. So, the alternative was to slow the ball down - by sending it up a short ramp to then get deflected back onto the playfield, taking a lot of momentum out of the ball, so it wouldn't go flying out the bottom of the lock.
The problem with THAT was that space was so limited, that on a hard-enough shot, the downward deflector would cause the ball to hit the end of the ramp, lose ALL momentum, and come rolling out the entrance.
In that thread, I mentioned that I used lock-nuts to raise up the back of my lock cage, because my plastic spacers were pretty much squeezed completely out of shape. After over six months of playing, it's still not 100% - I actually have balls coming out of the lock exit now. My deflector isn't angled right to slow balls down enough sometimes. (Maybe, 1 in 10 shots when lock is empty.) So it's a tweak I need to get to.

Quoted from Coyote:

My game came with spacers. Over the years (i.e. When I did my clearcoating of the PF) I only had one left, and it was almsot cut-through from the metal pressing down into it. (Overtightening.. ) Likely at some point I likely took it apart, it fell off, and I didn't know what it was for after reassembling. I'm not sure if they were all shiped with the spacers or not - I've heard people say their game didn't come with them, some did. Considering how difficult they are to get on, and stay on while sliding the lock cage back into the playfield, I wouldn't be surprised if many games left the factory with them not on. (If they were even *supposed* to be there..)

Quoted from scampcamp:

I'm thinking of getting this gumball machine mod but was wondering if it would look right without adding the fake gumballs?? I like the stock look to match the backglass picture. Thanks
http://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-gumball-sparkle-kit-tz-4/

Quoted from bigd1979:

I did and looks good... have bunch extra also

Quoted from Bigbossfan:

Long shot I know............but does anyone have an idea where I might be able to get the trough board that recognizes when the powerball is in the trough. Been actively looking for a few months now.

Quoted from german-pinball:

This is my 6 year old son Ingo junior.
Today he soldered his first TZ-clock-board under my assistance. He did a very very good job, all solder joints are perfect.
The board is tested and runs perfect. Same quality as when I had soldered it by myself. PCB is brandnew and has silkscreen October/2016.
As he is dreaming of a new game for his WiiU, he wants to sell the board here in my favorite club.
Ingo is thinking about a price of 95,00 USD. For this price Ingo will add sets of warm-white, cold-white, blue and rainbow color changing LEDs + free shipping worldwide. You save about 50,00 USD to the regular price.
First come first serve.

Quoted from german-pinball:

I am the designer and manufacturer of this board. The board is brandnew with all new parts etc. ....
For more information please look here
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html
or search on pinside for Ingo clock board
I test every board on my tester before shipping, see the tester in action here:
» YouTube video

Quoted from german-pinball:

Replacing 3mm by 5mm does not have a really great effect.
Since you are so desperate searching for an improvement, I can offer you, to etch you a little pcb, you glue with a hot glue gun in the center of your RD-board. Before that, you have to desolder the 4 LEDs or simply cut them out; the pre resistors will remain in the RD-board without any function. Then you can hot-glue the little pcb on the top of the RD-board and solder 2 little wires to connector J2, thats all.
The little pcb has the following advantages:
- fully rectified GI voltage
- I use 130° wide angle superfluxx LEDs
- LEDs are all socketed, so simple change between colors is easy
- absolute flicker free lightning
- you can adjust the brightness of the LEDs with a little poti
I use the same circuit and parts as on my professional board. I would like to send you blue, cool-white, warm-white and rainbow color changing LEDs.
To install the mod, should not last longer than 5 minutes, you only should have a bit of soldering skills.
And the best: All will be free for you, so I can "play" a bit and can help you here in my favorite forum; simply send me a PM with your shipping adress.
I will etch the board this weekend, make a little video and the ship to you - IF YOU WANT ...
The board looks as follows and is placed as seen in the following pic

Quoted from german-pinball:

Thanks for sending the pics; dimensions of the little GI-board are OK.
The sweety should sit on the board like this; 2 solder bridges must be made on the bottom of the board.

Quoted from german-pinball:

Already found the time this evening, to etch and build your board. It´s really a sweety and works perfect. I have no time, to make a video now, you can make it, when you got the board.
I did not cut the wires of the parts on the bottom, but bent them a bit, so that the board becomes as flat as possible. Tomorrow I will cut a piece of fish-paper, better we put it between the RD board and our board, to prevent possible short circuits.
For demonstration purpuses only I put the board on an original board and a blank pcb spare of my professional board.
By the way - the solder-bridges on the bottom of the board are not necessary, but I would do them.
But pics say more than words - sweet, isn´t it? In 5-8 days it will be in the US.

Quoted from alistaircg:

I replaced the kicker and it still only works 30 % of the time.
The arm is very loose, would adding a washer help it out ?
the kicker tests fine so it's loosing inertia someplace I think
Also what kind of lubrication does this require, if any ?

Quoted from ramegoom:

In stock and now available: This is an alternative replacement to the factory clock board. All-new construction, it uses the "carpet" effect to illuminate the face of the clock without spilling outside of the housing. The standard assembly is fitted with white LEDs. Blue, green, and red are optional.
The new design is fitted with 12 high intensity LEDs which flood the clock face insert evenly with illumination, while using less power than the original four incandescent bulbs and creating MUCH less heat.
Plug-and-play system completely replaces your original, heat-damaged opto clock board assembly using current-design opto switches. Several prototypes have been tested by TZ owners, and documented on some previous posts in this thread - check it out.

Quoted from ramegoom:

$84.95 retail. However, pinsiders get it for $70 shipped. You need to PM me for that deal.
Makes your clock light up completely natural and even, and can be special-ordered in blue, green or red.

Quoted from Lermods:

Have you ever ordered from them before? Looks like they mistyped on their sale, putting in 100% instead of 10%. They will likely cancel your order at 100% off. Lots of cool stuff for topper though.

Quoted from alveolus:

Unfortunately the wire broke between the coil and the plastic and it is impossible to get to it with an iron.

Quoted from alveolus:

The problem is that on this coil there is no way to access the Center for the drill.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Here's a pic of my topper
Not part of the pin I know but it's from my wife's favorite episode

Quoted from onemoresean:

I just found this in the gallery pics.
I'm not sure if it's being made or if there are other decals available

Quoted from Miguel351:

Sounds like the right spiral opto is shorted to one of the lock optos somehow. The voltage it's sending when it gets triggered is also triggering one of the lock optos.
Go into switch edge test and break the right spiral opto beam (switch 81) with your finger and see if one of the lock optos(switches 84 and 85) triggers as well.

Quoted from Miguel351:

I think I may be heading down to my local print shop to have this printed. It'd be fun to put in my TZ for when I take it to another show and let people try and figure out why it's in there and when my game was made and all that other fun stuff!

Quoted from Damien:

Any suggestions on site to buy from, and is there a list of the types of bulbs I will need?
Do you suggest doing it bit by bit (for example, doing the door lights on the play field, and then moving on to another part?)
Again, I'm totally new to the hobby, not the most technically inclined, but I'm willing and happy to learn.
Thank you all so much. Hoping to be part of the TZ crew soon

Quoted from MikeS:

I found a replacement choke sensor that works with the Pinpoint board! Best news is that it only cost 29 cents from Mouser. No more switch 26 error!
http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Bourns%2FRLB0712-101KL%2F&qs=Pnu8sm4aB7vLBx5Unny8ew%3D%3D

Quoted from Coyote:

Looks good! If I were to color the metal, it'd be black.
This game *always* continues to surprise me.
On one multiball, the game was trying to load balls onto the magnets, for the 'special' release. The second ball missed the middle magnet, and got caught on the left magnet. So, the third ball was supposed to get caught on the right magnet. It missed as well - but not enough. The magnetic field caught it and started to pull it in towards it back down the spiral. However, the game's timer ended, so the magnet shut off, sending the ball shooting down the right spiral towards the flipper. Neat effect!
Later, same multiball, one ball ends up shooting down between the flippers. It happened to hit *just right* and zoom up the side, up the right outlane, then hit the post and rolled into the inlane. Awesome.

Quoted from nosro:

I spent some time trying to manually clean the powerball (with Novus). That accomplished almost nothing after 15 minutes of hand polishing. Aside from tumbling it, I think the only other option is to buy a new one.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-powerball

Quoted from Lermods:

I cut the hole for the coindoor after the decal was applied. You need an exacto knife with a very sharp blade to trim it. Decal was applied using wet method, Dawn and water.

Quoted from nosro:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711

Quoted from Lermods:

They are all decals. Best way to prevent wrinkling is with metal cabinet protectors. Pinball life sells a set for $15.

Quoted from Chosen_S:

score the decal around the protector,
remove the protector and remove the scored cut out decal,
replace the protector with the bolts on,
apply the screws to it that will hold it...
no more leg wrinkle.

Quoted from Lermods:

Decals will show every flaw underneath, including rough sanding marks. That's why it's critical to have a perfectly flat and clean surface.

Quoted from Lermods:

Decals will show every flaw underneath, including rough sanding marks. That's why it's critical to have a perfectly flat and clean surface.

Quoted from fiberdude120:

The metal protectors keep the leg off the cabinet so they dont touch anything but the metal.
The plastic ones still rest on the decal and will wrinkle them.

Quoted from Chosen_S:

No, unfortunately those just hide the wrinkles and possibly create more wrinkles, the metal ones sit under the legs and are completely hidden once the legs are installed... the metal ones hold the leg out 1/16" from the cab so nothing pushes against the decal to wrinkle it

Quoted from Damien:

Was watching this guy play, and he's unreal!
» YouTube video
Curious to know how he keeps getting the Piano Jackpot over and over? I thought that you could get it once, then relight by hitting Lock, and then get a second Jackpot only?
Can anyone tell me how he's doing this?

Quoted from Coyote:

I haven't watched it, mainly because of the length. (Hey! That's 45 minutes I could spend playing my own TZ!) If ya'll have a time fram of when this happens, let me know.
Off the top of my head, it's important to know that every shot that is shot up the Dead End hole ALSO runs over the camera switch. So, while it's not really a 'bug', it is something to be taken advantage of. Moreso in Power Multiball -
For example - the game does not keep track of the number of balls entering and exiting the Powerfield. Once the top exit opto is triggered, there's a few seconds (3 or 4, I believe) where any subsequent hit on the camera switch will award the powerball jackpot. So, by shooting a ball up into the powerfield, and keeping it there as long as possible while getting it to break the top exit opto, any other ball shot into the Camera or Dead End will award a jackpot - as long as the timer remains.
This comes in *extremely handy* during LITZ - shoot the first ball you get up into the powerfield. Every ball after that that is dispensed from the gumball machine will give you the jackpot.
Want a *really* good LITZ score? Try to get Powerball Mania, Clock Millions, and TSQ Madness in the same ball, before starting LITZ. When LITZ is finished, your three mode scores from the Powerball Mania and the two modes will be *added* to the scores you get for those modes DURING LITZ. This will bump up your LITZ score a LOT (depending on how good you are, of course!) and make you LITZ champion!
I digress. Sorry.
Yeah, during normal multiball, the camera shot has to be hit to relight the jackpot. If there is something wrong with the dead end switch, and the game doesn't see a ball hit that switch first, then it will think the ball was shot into the camera hole and re-light jackpot.

Quoted from Coyote:

Not sure what's 'unfinished'. Be itneresting to see that.
.

Quoted from snowvictim:

Yeah, I put up my TZ for sale. Took the ad off after 3 hours. It's such an amazing game I could never part with it...

Quoted from Coyote:

Yup, that's the Powerball exploit I mention in my previous post.
While I know why they didn't add a switch to verify the shot (switch matrix was full!), I only *think* I know why Ted didn't/couldn't address it better in code -
I have a vague memory of Ted mentioning during the beta that "new features" couldn't be added because available memory was almost nil. I.e. He didn't have enough side to add a variable in RAM to store the # balls entering the mini-PF vs exiting. However I no longer have my 10+ year old emails anymore, so I can't be positive on that.

Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Have you looked at the animations using the Pinball Browser? The door sequence in TZ_94H.ROM starts at 0x88 and the last frame is 0x9B.

Quoted from Coyote:

Sometimes my game depresses me so much.
1000 balls played since reassembling the playfield after getting it clearcoated. So, I first do under the PF, and no issues. A few loosed screws that required a bamboo shim, but everything else is fine.
Then I start working on the top side. Take off mini-PF and ramps, and start doing an inspection of the playfield and I come across this:

This is making me consider putting down a full-playfield mylar now. All I can say is that this better have happened during some awesome multiball or LITZ.
Then, I came across this, and am wondering how everyone else's game is set up. In this shot, you will see the metal guide ending there at the two bulbs, just up and let of the red pop bumper. Looking at it, you'll see that it ends in the post there.

Now, my playfield has a second hole - hidden under the guide in my pic - that ends the metal guide out, away from the post. Unfortunately, I do not know which hole is original, and wondering where other folf's metal guide ends.
As-is, pictured, any ball hit/shot up the hitchiker will hit that post, and bounce all around the pop bumpers.
When it's moved into the other hole, balls hit/shot up the hitchiker will come sailing down and hit the yellow pop bumper, which will activate and send the ball back onto the playfield center.

Quoted from Coyote:

Honestly, didn't notice a difference on making the dead end shot; just balls coming down from the hitchhiker..

Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Installed GLM mini-pf switches yesterday. They look great, works perfectly, but I ended up breaking my magna-flip plastic...
Any good soul with a spare out there that could help me?

Quoted from AlexSMendes:

The seller won't ship to Brazil.

Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Thanks again but now this one is out of stock...

Quoted from Chosen_S:

The Great Lakes Modular Power Field switches 2.0 have an extra set of switches for "mods".
I'm guessing so something with lights can be connected to the switches as well, I'm curious to know what anyone has done with the ability to run a mod off them

Quoted from dnaman:

Awesome! Yes let's say that I have been reaching out to see if 'anyone' would be interested but just crickets at this point. Understandably so but a response would have been appreciated
Are we faced with any challenges here for doing voice work 'in the style' of someone else or saying things that were authored by someone else?

Quoted from Coyote:

I believe Mirco is still selling his. http://www.highclasspinballs.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=85&osCsid=8684541ba25d9996c877177c4bb472f9

Quoted from AlexSMendes:

The colors of your decals should match the PF colors... They're way off...
I installed these side-art decals below on my machine and they look absolutely gorgeous!
Acquired from a local source and the quality is pretty awesome!

Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Yep..., perfect yellow match and perfect continuity! It must really stink being (color) blind!

Quoted from PinRob:

Finally put these side and back wall art blades in, and was able to do it without pulling the playfield out!

Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Well, at least that was the original idea.... As they say, easier said than done!

No hate here, life is beautiful... I just said the colors were off. (Period). Unfortunately, as seen below, it stinks knowing that's not the rule here on pinside.

Quoted from AlexSMendes:

That one was best implemented... But the thing with this decals is, no matter the angle you look at, it will never provide a correct continuity of the PF art. And that is the sole point of this art.

Quoted from PinRob:

I got it here - https://www.walmart.com/ip/The-Twilight-Zone-Another-Dimension-Poly-36X60-Blanket-White-One-Size/151129132

Quoted from chooch:

Can someone confirm the rubber rings used on TZ? Looking at the manual and kits posted on Titan Pinball I am pretty sure these are correct.
3 Rubber Rings - Flipper Standard
1 Rubber Rings - Flipper Mini
1 Rubber Rings - Shooter Tip
6 Rubber Rings - 5/16 Inch ID
2 Rubber Rings - 7/16 Inch ID
16 Rubber Rings - 7/16 Inch OD (1 extra for shooter lane)
2 Rubber Rings - 1 Inch ID (noted as 1 1/4 "D" in manual for posts above pop bumpers)
2 Rubber Rings - 1 1/4 Inch ID
4 Rubber Rings - 2 Inch ID
2 Rubber Rings - 2 1/2 Inch ID
Where I am confused is on the 3/4 Inch ID rings. If you have posts in between the pop bumpers then you will use 2 of them in the "B" position, however the manual calls for 4 rings so I have no idea where the other 2 would go.

Quoted from jawjaw:

Best thing is to get a reinforced target like the following. They seem to be out of stock often, though.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R
I had the same problem with a few targets on my Shadow and those fixed the problem. For now, you can shove some more padding behind the targets.