(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago



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#2201 3 years ago

Hi all, just became part of the club a few days ago. Have been ironing out some issues and I've got it working 100% except for the clock. Looks like the 12 o'clock opto is not registering when the minute hand spins when it's in test mode. Is the opto replaceable? Where can I find the parts to repair the clock?
P.S. I'm absolutely loving the game, so much fun

#2204 3 years ago

Thanks for quick response guys. I enjoy doing board work and I want to keep my TZ all original (at least for now) so I would like to repair it before I bought a replacement board. I'll look at Mouser for the optos. Think I'll keep the incandescents for now but it's good to know how to switch it. Just curious though, isn't there a direct replacement LED without having to swap out resistors?

#2208 3 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

There is, you can use the 12 volt midget bayonet socketed bulbs. I tried that, but wasn't bright enough, so I removed the sockets and soldered the LEDs directly to the board. Simple procedure to replace those parts. Be sure you use a desoldering machine, or braided solder wick when removing the components.

Ahh I see. Nicely done. No worries, I have the whole set up.
Did a little digging last night. Marco has the replacement optos but they cost about double what Mouser has.

#2226 3 years ago

Switches can be "normally open" or "normally closed". Most are normally open, and close when the ball is over the switch arm or sensor. I like to roll the ball over the switch trigger to see, as compared to just lifting the play field and manually triggering the switch (a switch can be good but needs to be adjusted to actually work). So having the balls removed does not make it more accurate, testing the switches by using a ball to activate them is. If the balls are in, you should see the trough switches closed. Take a ball out and roll it around it test mode. The switch will be named as it is activated on the screen. If doesn't activate, check to see if works manually. If it does, adjust the switch. If it doesn't, buy a new switch.
I had a problem with VUK because the switch needed to be adjusted underneath. My guess is the switch where the ball drops into scoop after launching is not registering the ball was there. It just sees it in the slot scoop and fires it out. Hope that helps.

#2228 3 years ago

Did you try adjusting it first? There are 2 screws that hold the switch in place. Loosen the screws and you can move the switch around. Push it up closer to the trough and see if that works. If not then buy a new switch.

1 week later
#2262 3 years ago

Also make sure the identified red wire on the cable assembly goes on the same way you took it off. At least one of the cables (auxiliary cable) has ports that are perpendicular to each other. So the cable has a small twist. Twist it the wrong way and you'll have problems.

#2264 3 years ago

Well if it was working before you changed the ribbon cables and that's all you did, then at least one of the cables isn't on properly. Pull them all off again and slowly put them back on and triple check it. If even one pin is off alignment it won't work right. Make sure you didn't bend any pins too.

#2278 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Hey, does anyone know the exact measures of the clock decal? It will be truly appreciated!

Just so happens I have my clock apart. The sticker is 3-5/32" square. I leave it to you to convert to metric

#2279 3 years ago

Got a technical question. Just replaced all the optos on the clock. I thought since the new and old optos have writing only on one side, and the dot on the new opto lines up with the circle on the board, that I installed them the right way. Clock is still broken. Can't get the motor to spin even when everything but motor is unplugged (no voltage at the motor driver board either). What should the dot on the new optos be lined up with? Here's a pic.
IMG_20160623_205419_361_(resized).jpg

#2286 3 years ago
Quoted from litz:

Optos won't affect the motor operation. Game should still spin the motor, even if only briefly before giving up.
So ... first thing first, you need to verify the optos register in clock test.
Then you need to figure out why there's no power at the motor driver PCB.

Got everything working again and I'm pretty sure the same 3 optos are reading constantly closed 2,7,&8. All resistors are good, the diode tested good, and continuity tested most of traces (2,7,&8 traces). They all tested good. What board in the back box is reading the optos?

1 week later
#2306 3 years ago
Quoted from litz:

The clock optops are kind of a mongrel ... the switch column strobe comes from the 8-aux driver PCB.
The switch row returns go in the normal switch row inputs shared with the rest of the switch matrix.
You can test a clock board out of the game by building a simple test fixture that provides +12 to the board, and has LEDs that light up on the row returns. Any time you transition the switch column from +12 to Ground, you should see the row returns reflect the status of the optos.

Thank you litz! I don't have a test fixture but this put me in the right direction. Found some other issues along the way that I fixed. I'm pretty sure the LM339 on the 10 switch opto board is the culprit. (Unless of course Marco sent 3 bad optos and I happened to put them in the same place )Everything else checked out good, and I don't think you can test the LM339 accurately with a dmm.

#2307 3 years ago

On another note, does anyone know where I could buy screened cabinet decals?

#2309 3 years ago

Well I physically traced the wires out and verified continuity. The harness on the clock (j2 or j3 forget which) , goes directly to the 10 switch opto board, through a diode and then to a LM339. I don't have the schematics but I just bought the manual and should be here soon. Something goofy is going on and the LM339 is the only thing I can't test to see if it's good. If that's not it, what other IC is involved with the clock optos?

#2317 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yes.
You're traing the ROW wire, which is connected to the opto board - on the OUTPUT side of the opto board. i.e. The LM339 on the opto board recieved signal from the opto connected to it, and the LM339 then drives that row to ground.
You will notice that regular game optos are closed normally, (a)ctive when open. However, clock optos are *not* - they're (a)ctive closed.
The clock's column is driven by the output on the 8-driver PCB in the backbox, which pulses all optos on the clock board - optos are wired to the standard ROW (white/xx) wires (which are then connected to the opto board, all switches, back to the MPU)..

Well, you were right, it ended up being the optos. Just bought a manual and spare clock from another member. Plugged it in and everything works. What threw me off was the same 3 optos (new) were reading active when they weren't supposed to be, just like the old ones. Not sure how brand new optos went bad, although I can think of a couple possibilities. Anyway, thanks for the help from everyone.

2 months later
#2632 3 years ago

Question about the pop bumper caps. It was mentioned earlier they were red, amber, and yellow. Mine was 2 red and an orange (amber). The image on ipdb is 2 red and orange(amber) The mini playfield inserts are 2 red and orange(amber). I need to order new caps. Was it originally 2 red and orange? Was it intended to be 3 colors but mistakenly only used 2?

#2661 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Mini playfield is NOT two red and yellow. Mini playfield is Red, Orange/Amber, Yellow. And this is why you don't try to color-mate LEDs.

You're right, lol. I was in the middle of tearing down my TZ when I saw the pop cap discussion. When I looked at the caps and play field they looked like they were both red. I had to hold them up to the light to see the difference. Hard to tell when they're out of the machine.
IMG_20160915_175828_015 (resized).jpg
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3 weeks later
#2765 3 years ago

Yes, that is the DMD board.

#2768 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I resoldered the DMD board ribbon cable connections but still get glitchiness on the color DMD... it has new ribbon cables. Any other things I could try? Thanks

I like to replace the caps,ribbon cable, and put a HV rebuild kit on any original DMD board. If it wasn't done already. I'll also test other components and replace if bad. Do you have another WPC game? If so swap boards and see if that fixes it.

#2769 3 years ago

Any one know where these plastics go? They're all clear, the backing is still on.IMG_20161008_174314_099 (resized).jpg

#2771 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

If he's got the ColorDMD, I don't think he has to do any of the HV stuff?

I know, but it's a cheap kit and everything gets crispy in that area. If your going to take the board out for repairs, might as well do it.

Quoted from Coyote:

Second one from bottom goes on the screw that holds down the shooter/autofire lanes.

Thanks!

#2772 3 years ago

Just realized the color DMD doesn't use the J604 plug. So I guess you don't need it. Regular DMDs do though.

#2777 3 years ago

I would try adjusting the guide first, if that doesn't work, take it out and give it a little bend so its slightly bowed. Also make sure the machine is level left to right. Sometimes the leg bolts move if the jamb nut is not tight.

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