I'm new to Pinside, but I've had my TZ for about 12 years.

I am considering putting LEDs in the back box. Who has them and did you do an interesting color combination to highlight the translite artwork? Would you post a photo of it with the translite on and off?

Also, I saw mention of an LED added to the piano and slot machine. Where is the best place to mount the lamps? Photos?

Thanks

I wouldn't let a broken clock or gumball machine stop me from buying a TZ. Those things can be fixed, pretty easily. For me, a good playfield and a non-hacked power board would be number one and two, although the power boards can be repaired or replaced too.

The slot scoop can also be replaced, but it's a real pain.

Look for discoloration, possible burn, around the magnets. It's not usually as big an issue as it is on TAF, but worth mentioning.

I wish I could get Mike to return my email. What's the secret?

That chrome does look fantastic.

I just added clear flipper buttons, lit with color-changing LEDs. Pretty cheap mod that I think fits in the theme of the game. I have a light strip for the door on the translite too, but haven't installed it yet.

BTW, this is the nicemite.com version, not the ones that are $30 a pair.

I had a similar issue. Mine was a loose connector.

I checked pins and solder pads on the boards, but everything looked good. So, I removed the connector, twisted about 8 times and reconnected it. It worked. Apparently the torque created by twisting the wires, kept the connector in proper contact with the header pins.

Might not be your issue, but it's worth a shot.

I thought I had a rare TZ, complete with the special limited edition "smokey sub tunnels".

Nah.......they were just dirty.

After cleaning.
tz sub tunnel.jpg

They were all black, including the blue rubber bumpers. I finally got brave enough to take them off, and clean them.

I kept spot cleaning around the slings, and they would get dirty again. I figured the dirt was in the tunnels, and I was right.

Actually, it wasn't as bad as I was expecting. I removed and cleaned all of them, the slot scoop and others too.

There were a lot of screws, unplug and remove the Eddy Sensor, and three roll-over switches from the tunnel in my photo.

It's where the dirt and grime is hiding.

I remember Greater Southern. I bought a CV there, around 2003, at a surprisingly reasonable price.

I'm going to pony up and replace my clock board and housing.
I'm really tired of fixing my clock, and the housing was drilled for ventilation.

I also need to add a Cliffy's protector for the slot machine and shooter lane.

How does that purple board look installed? I'm trying to imagine it in my clock.

Cheaper even after shipping from Germany?

Never mind, I see his site now.

Currently $130 + $17 for shipping to USA. Does this come with LEDs, or do they have to be ordered separately?

I see the options for different colors, just not sure if I need to make a selection if I just want standard LEDs.

Thanks.

As for the clock housing itself, any difference in them? Do these new boards need ventilation?

I haven't had any problems entering high scores, and I am running 9.4H.

There are two different tiers of high scores; one is with the extra ball buy-in, the other without. The preset scores are higher for the buy-in. So, if you get 650+ million, I think, without using the extra ball buy-in, you should be able to enter your initials. However, I think the lowest buy-in score is closer to 950 million.

I did a little more cleaning under the playfield. Here's what is hiding under the door, no wonder my door panel lights seemed a bit dim. I cleaned the underside of the inserts as well.

TZ_Doorlights.jpg

While I had the glass off, I also added this blue shooter tip from Titan Pinball.

tz_bluetip.jpg

Can't wait to see how those stainless clock arms look installed.

I agree. The main theme that made it into production is more fitting. However, I would love to have the other tunes, and have them switchable.

Too much to ask, I'm sure.

I think the best "mod" is lubricating the spindles for the clock gears. Mine was really loud and I can't believe how much quieter it is now.

If you decide to lubricate yours, make sure you use a plastic-safe lubricant and use it sparingly.

Not really a mod I suppose, but it really makes my TZ more enjoyable to play.

Yes, the shafts the gears rotate on. I used Brain Lube, which says it's safe for plastic. I bought it from Marco.

Just be very careful when you disassemble the gears. Pay close attention to the time on your clock, before you take it apart, and how the gears are assembled.

Polished stainless hands with the proto clock face would look great. You plan on tempting us with photos of your one-off project, or would you consider selling a few pairs of the stainless hands?

I would verify that the voltage is correct, at the lamp sockets that are burning out.

All of my backbox lighting is LEDs, with the exception of the blinkers. I have a few of them in playfield inserts, but I haven't had a problem with any of them burning out. There are a few that blink differently during attract mode.

So your issue is with the controlled lamps, not GI?

In my opinion, those are the best "mods" to add to a pin. The ones that Bally and Williams were too cheap to put on all production pins, like the door panel flashers and the Spiral sign. I also add those that improve game play, or protect from plastic or playfield breakage.

The only true cosmetic mods I have added are the plastic gumballs, and recently I changed out the amber pop bumper cap for one that truly looks orange.

I did order Ingo's clock board, simply because I am tried of fixing my OEM clock boards. I also plan to create and add my own graphics to the very back of the playfield.

That streetlight does look nice.

I am not opposed to anyone modding their pins, I just prefer a more traditional look on mine. I forgot that I did add the decorative decal to the diverter.

So far, I have only put red LEDs in my red inserts. It really makes the color pop.

Yellow has been a disaster. I don't like the cool or warm white in the yellow inserts, so I still have the standard 555s. Amber; I have not tried yet. I might try the Comet Sunlight, next time I need to order lamps.

I would like to put an orange in the orange insert for the mini playfield. It needs to look a little more orange.

Are you talking about all the feature settings in the menu? If so, I simply go with the factory defaults, with the exception of the minimum volume and power saver GI level overrides set to on.

I've never seen that sticker. Maybe I was robbed.

Thanks, just not sure what to do with it.

This is the Spiral Sign that was left off the production pins. It sits above the entrance to the left spiral loop.

lamp.jpg

I don't have the spiral sign in my TZ, but Marco has the blank plastic. You'll have to use water slide decals to make the lettering.

Yes, it's a bit funny to see the plastic for sale new, without the text.

I need this. Can you post the link to the guide?

Should be one each; red, yellow, orange.

The OEM orange was more amber and really didn't look that orange to me. I ordered an orange cap and like it much better.

Make sure you put them in the correct position. Look at the inserts on the mini playfield, and match that color scheme. This way the correct color bumper lights up when you are awarded a jet bonus.

Cliff calls it a drop switch protector. It's generic and he says the same one will work on various games.

I ordered one along with the slot protector, and a few for my IJ, last week.

I'm not much on mods, but I did install the plastic colored gumballs in the gumball machine and the gumball insert door flashers.

As for protectors, Cliffy's slot protector is a must have and his drop switch protector isn't a bad idea.

I forgot about your LITZ comment, buy the home ROMs.

They have a LITZ practice mode that allows you to do just that. However, it won't allow you to save the LITZ score while in practice mode. Otherwise, it operates the same as the commercial ROMs.

Double-post.

I personally don't like most of the TZ mods, but it's all personal preference.

Want to bling out your game? Go for it. Want to keep it mostly stock? Sure, it's your game.

I like LEDs in TZ for the reasons mentioned, but don't really like them in my IJ. I do like the plastic or glass gumballs, door flashers, and some type of sprial sign as these should have been on the game to start with. At least from what I have been told.

I like the diverter and lamp post decals, and a less busy backboard decal too. What I wish would be developed is a lamp post that doesn't show the wires or use zip ties.

Yes, take the clock out of the game.

Make sure it is at 12:00 before you start taking it apart. Also, if you clock is really loud, use this or similar lubricant to quieten it down.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-BL

What's missing? I can't tell from the photos.

You can get or make a cabinet and boards are available. I'm sure the translite isn't impossible to find and color DMD would be an option for the display. Finding a transformer might be tricky. I've never looked for one.

I think he was talking about wiring in the lower cabinet; at least that's the way I took it. If that's the case, it wouldn't be a huge deal. Wiring would have to be run to the flipper buttons, start and buy-in buttons, speaker, tilt, slam switches, and coin door. Power to the transformer wouldn't be huge, but finding the correct transformer and the service box might.

You would ideally want to find a cheap, beat up compatible donor pin, and start from there. Seeing how TZ is a widebody, that's makes it more difficult.

Your link didn't work but I found the listing.

Missing that I see are:
1. Slot Machine Scoop
2. Lower Flipper Bats
3. All playfield wiring loom connectors !!! Seriously, WTF !!!
Maybe other parts, but this is what I see from a quick glance.

Looks faded under the door panels and wear from the lower flippers.

The notch in the front and rear of the clear part of the gumball machine, is where the clear plastic divider fits. Without it, you are going to have issues.

This would make a good looking TZ piano if you add a DIY scroll and it were the right size.

Approximate Size 2 1/4” x 2 1/2” x 1 5/8”

piano_(resized).PNG

The only one that I can find on mine is the one in the shooter lane, as shown in the other thread.