Ann Arbor, MI
Robby a must?
To me the only musts are the piano, and powerfield switch kit.
(Topic ID: 63352)
Linked Games
Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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Quoted from MK6PIN:My coolest find though.... ( besides the topper)...found at the same time on eBay w set for my TAF...I don't sit down when I play, but way cool accessory....
Holy shit on the ceiling...that's awesome!!!
11 months later
1 week later
Quoted from Tmezel:How about the door for the playfield. Looking at several locations and maybe having it lie down like it is on the translite.
I understand it's white on the cab art, but that thing just looks too white for me (unless it will be painted at some point). Just looks plasticy & unfinished IMO...but I wish you luck.
Def can't put it in the shooter lane blocking the skill shot though.
Quoted from Starscream:Go for Ingo's clock board,
And you can get it from Boryguard (sp) now
Quoted from TrainH2o:How does that purple board look installed? I'm trying to imagine it in my clock.
Anyone know? Mines still waiting to be installed.
EDIT: Doubt you'd be able to see the color though with the decal in front and all. Maybe form the side, but that doesn;t concern me at all...esepecially since there's a lot of purple in the game.
3 months later
Quoted from Lermods:How much would this detract value relative to a game without it?
I think the post is there because earlier versions of code didn't have much of a ball save.
Uff having a hole in the PF would take it down hundreds for me.
It's there because whomever did it sucks at pinball and desecrated a nice machine (nice outline posts).
But yeah without seeing the rest of it it's hard to tell. Inlane switch hole is blown out pretty well so machine might have other issues.
Quoted from dmacy:I would say 4k would be my personal top for this one and would throw a PF in it and honestly that would be a bit too much to spend.
It's not the prettiest TZ I've seen that's for sure. I might buy it for 4 though if it was clean inside...I'm ASSuming the garbage on the PF is just Novus....some wear around inserts etc.
Quoted from Lermods:What I'm seeing out there is some pretty high priced TZ's lately, most are $6k and up. if this one is between 4 and 5k, that leaves quite a bit of room to make improvements if desired.
I don't see most as 6K. Boston has the price @ 3700ish for what that's worth. Remember, TZ are usually dolled up with mods that can move the price upwards. I think you could get/pay more than 4K for it, I just don't know if I would...But yeah i already own one. I just don;t like the idea of having to fill a gaping hole right in the middle of the flippers. But if you can get passed that it's fine.
Quoted from Lermods:inside pic...not looking for CQ here,
It's a lot to do with how much work you want to put in. I can tell you now, from that small picture of the inside that is trying not to show us anything, seems to me to be PURE BLACK subways. This means it's going to take a very long time to clean up and get spiffy.
Some people like that, and I kind of do. But it's a question of value there.
Quoted from Lermods:Looks like I may pass on this one, the post bothers me and while Im happy to do some work. I don't want to spend all my time doing it.
Yep the thing aboot a TZ is there are plenty more left. I mean this was gonna be a real dirtball duty here. Elbow grease doesn't bother me and I like the change they go through, but I stay away from hole in Playfields.
tz.jpg 1 year later
Quoted from Pmaino:Just changed out the switches on my mini-playfield. Makes a huge difference and wasn't hard to do. I highly recommend doing this if you haven't already.
I've said many a time this is probably the best mod for TZ. If I only had 1 it would be that. Looks so much cleaner.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Pmaino:Here is an update on my shooter lane clean up. Here are the before and after shots. Clear coat is still curing but I think it looks a lot better. Let me know your thoughts.
It looks like a shooter lane that has been clear coated. It doesn't look better, or worse to me.
2 weeks later
Quoted from ramegoom:I'm new here, just got a TZ. What's the 3rd. magnet?
It's an additional magnet in the right loop that the game was originally suppossed to have; it still exists on the prototype versions.
The software is still in the game, so some people drill a new whole and add the magnet.
Quoted from Thor-NL:Have all the items to make this happen...
But i am too faint of heart to drill that playfield
Yeah I wouldn't want to drill mine either. It also comes down to the 3rd mag is a "neat trick," but isn't used very much, and not worth it (for me).
1 week later
I'm having a horrible time with my Shooter Lane Diverter. For some reason, it will not open all the way up, it just sort of pulses and moves like 1/5 of the way and goes back to it's resting spot....ball dribbles into the normal shooter lane.
Tried a new coil, but it's got to be something silly. It's as if there isn't enough wiggle room for the coil to suck in the metal piece, that moves the hub & screw thus moving the actual diverter.
Very annoying...and it's location isn't helping.
1 week later
Quoted from TheLaw:"It is normal for the powerball to change color from white to pearlecent color as it ages. This in no way effects the playability or the ability of the game to detect it's presence in the playfield! Cleaning of the Powerball IS NOT recomended. "
Page 2
Quoted from MK6PIN:Seems I read somewhere back that the size and weight vary between original and the repros....any input or truth to any of that?
Time to dust off this old chesnut
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-powerball-original#post-396273
Quoted from Nightmare:Can we finally put this debate to an end? How should the pop bumpers be? I have Orange at the bottom, Red at top left, and Yellow at top right. Is this correct or no? It would seem that which ever skill shot color you get, that pop bumper would light up. I don't feel like my order is correct. Thanks
There is no debate, it was put to rest years ago in this thread....search the thread! I'm on my phone so can't do it for you
Quoted from JoJoBear:Look at the lightning bolt inserts on the mini-playfield. Notice how the top-left is red, top-right is orange, and the bottom is yellow. This matches the correct order for the bumper caps. Took me a while to notice this little tidbit myself.
2 weeks later
Quoted from someoneelse:If you are into this kind of modding stuff this is pretty nice: http://www.pinballdecals.com/TwilightZoneSprialSignPage.html
Before spending insane amounts of monies on a bunch of mods really think aboot what is the best bang for your buck. GLM Switch Kit has always been the best mod out there...because it doesn't look like a mod.
http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/tzmpskit2.html
Quoted from delt31:Anyone know where I can by the spiral sign plastic that was cut from production? Had no idea what the associated light meant. Can't believe they removed it.
Quoted from delt31:this does look good but it's almost 100.
Quoted from delt31:what's with the response? Not following.
Oh that the sign you're looking for is just $20 cheaper than the switch kit. Just be careful, once you start modding this thing it can get out of hand. Mine looks like a French whore, and when I step back and think what is really the "best" or "needed" items there aren't many. Having said that, the sign that was linked for you I have and think it's great.
Quoted from Miguel351:I'd say you're dead on. Looks like it needs about 15-20% more yellow. My original TZ cab's red on the side is definitely red and not pink.
Nice timing! Now take those damn black rubber of your TZ 
Quoted from Miguel351:Mine's at 7deg and you can still backhand the robot ramp from the left flipper all day long. Not that that's a good thing gameplay-wise,
So you're saying you can make multiple ramp & loop shots with either flipper...bu bu they also told me it has "no flow!"
Quoted from delt31:so any tips on properly controlling that ball after it's shot out of the slot machine kickout? I've been mainly letting it hit my right flipper so it goes to my left but sometimes that's dangerous especially with powerball. I've been able to actually cradle it straight from the kickout but can't seem to replicate that each time. Tips for doing so?
Unless you learn drop catch it, dead bouncing to the left flipper or shooting straight for the left ramp are the usual ways to go.
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Drop catch is so cool, but my slot vulk spits the ball at 100 mph, so it's f***ing hard to do it.... Lost so many balls attempting, but I'll never give up!
When I encounter one like that I usually head for the left ramp...not too hard to get that one very reliable.
1 week later
Quoted from scampcamp:Im thinking about having my TZ shopped by a local pinball repair guy. I hear he does great work but charges $1,000 & doesnt take everything off the playfield.
Is this a fair price or should I just try & do it myself? Never have cleaned this complicated of a game. Thanks
That is a horrible price...shameful actually.
1 week later
Quoted from Seatmandan:Finally finished my TZ restoration. This ones a keeper for sure. the PPS Next gen decals for the main cab were a little muted, but I'm happy with the results
You don;t play the cabinet man! 
Looks in great shape...I usually don't like to promote mods, but the GLM powerfield switch kit really is a sleek look.
Quoted from Seatmandan:I've seen that one talked about quite a bit. I'll do that one for sure, maybe in the fall. Are the rail switches more sensitive than the stock microswitch ones?
It's been so long I couldn't remember if one is over the other, but it works perfectly with the GLM.
1 month later
Quoted from Billy16:Ingo's clock board might be on that short list--it works so smoothly and runs so cool!
If your clock is running fine, which does happen, then it isn't needed imo. Of course I have Ingo's clock and still get clock is broken errors so whatever 
I had my clock turned off for years anyway...isn't needed.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Agent_Hero:How do I remove the small bolts attached to the magna flip plastic?
They aren;t bolt, their rivets,. So you'll have to drill them out and then rivet them back in...or use small screws/nuts when replacing.
4 weeks later
Quoted from d0n:I have an issue with the slot machine scoop breaking the plastic above it when hit hard with a ball. Is there a fix or mod for this?
Hmmm...no mod I'm aware of...sounds like maybe it isn't connected correctly. Pics of the area in question?
2 weeks later
Quoted from Neal_W:I have seen that statement many times, but don't agree. Mine was Red,Yellow, and Amber at the bottom when I got it, like pinball arcade. Also the original Bally flyer is that way. We need Pat to settle this!
Proto/sample
1 year later
Quoted from ryanwanger:Question for anyone who has switched to LEDs: which type of white did you use in the backbox, cool or warm?
I actually used cool though out my TZ years & years ago. I might have moved to warm if i did it now but it looks normal to me now 
3 weeks later
Quoted from ryanwanger:Is there something else you use instead, or do you think it's worth the tradeoff of having a dark playfield?
Personally I use my eyes. TZ is my only game (?) that has LED GI and everything is lit fine.
Quoted from ryanwanger:Hardy har har. Do you find it to be equivalently lit compared to something like Game of Thrones or Star Wars?
God no...not even close. But those games are a bit too bright.
I probably switched my TZ over pretty 'early' to LED...as there were a lot of ablaze bulbs in it. But I think in the middle I started buying cointaker...def before no ghosting bulbs were out around.
Quoted from jawjaw:'m also getting the brick outs of the lock shot but I know there is a lot of info on addressing that.
haha look for a dislodged bulb or screw back there...that's what happened to mine.
Quoted from ryanwanger:I think a lot of LED conversions are driven by modern Sterns.
Of that I have little doubt
1 week later
Quoted from pindergast:Is CPR making main playfields for TZ yet or just Mirco? I've read a lot of negative things about Mirco's. There was a NOS pf kicking around a few months ago but that seems to be gone.
Just Mirco as far as I know. Haven't read many reviews but they looked nice.
I always hear weird stuff aboot CPR.
1 week later
Quoted from billsfanmd:Ingo clock board swap. Easy? Looking at a tz with bad close Clock so may do this first. I like the blue. So do I need blue leds and clear case or blue case?
It's not the hardest thing, but you gotta take care when doing it. Keeping your clock hands in the right position and taking it apart etc.
I would just go blue case.
2 years later
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