Quoted from Manny65:

Possibly the ball is being held up on the micro-switch wire at the start of the piano subway
[quoted image]

Quoted from Manny65:

Possibly the ball is being held up on the micro-switch wire at the start of the piano subway
[quoted image]

Quoted from Manny65:

Glad you got it sorted

Quoted from LTG:

Assuming it is an easy push or medium push switch, learn to adjust it better.
If it's a hard push switch, dump it, not meant for pinball.
LTG : )

Quoted from Davi:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9672

Quoted from awesome1:

Does your game have the 3rd magnet? Almost all do not.

Quoted from mbaumle:

Multiball magnet grab only works if you have the 3rd magnet installed in the game. Here’s what it looks like:

Quoted from mbaumle:

No more kits, but you don't need one. dmacy and myself installed a 3rd magnet/opto in my game during his swap just a month or so ago. If you're already familiar with the process having installed it on your previous game, the hardest part in the whole process is drilling into the stainless ball guides, and making sure the areas you've drilled into are perfectly lined up for the opto beam.
Some takeaways from my kit-less installation:
Optos must be "shimmed" up about 3mm from the playfield in order for the ball to break the opto beam at the ball's widest diameter, and to ensure proper timing of the magnet's ability to catch the ball. I found that a paint stirrer from the hardware store is about 3mm thick, but any material can be used. I used digital calipers to take all measurements before drilling the holes in the guides. No template or anything was required. "Measure twice, cut once." It doesn't have to be perfect, but it has to be damn close.
My process: With the guides installed, stick a ruler across the top directly over the center of the magnet core. Mark in sharpie along the top on each side. Then, with calipers, measure the distance from the base of the opto to the center of the beam PLUS the added 3mm of shim. Mark that on each side of the guide under each mark you made from the ruler. That got me perfectly centered and ready for the drill. There's a few guides that show the use of painters tape to help with alignment. I didn't think that was necessary, and didn't use it.
Regarding the drilling, a drill press is absolutely necessary, as are a ton of sharp bits, oil to cool the bits, and a LOT of patience. Go low and slow, and let the bit do all the work. Start with a small diameter drill bit, and work your way up to 17/64 size. This was by far the most time consuming portion of the installation.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/imagine-if-you-will-a-twilight-zone-playfield-swap/page/2#post-6717814
Solder the wires onto the optos, and run them through the playfield, screw down the guides, then screw down the optos just behind the holes. Everything should line up.
I cheated with the wiring of the optos into the 10-opto board. Pinsider "Dumbass" has a "plug and play" board that installs over the connector. All you'd need to do is wire in a connector for the extra opto pair, and crimp in a connector. No hacking of the original board is required. The process is highlighted here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/imagine-if-you-will-a-twilight-zone-playfield-swap/page/3#post-6743681
Lastly, add the associated driver board hardware, install the magnet, and punch the wiring into the existing connector.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/imagine-if-you-will-a-twilight-zone-playfield-swap/page/2#post-6734791
And that's really all there is to it. It's not a technically demanding job, but it's not at all easy. With Dumbass's board, all the challenge goes into measuring and drilling the rails for the optos.

Quoted from arthurrag:

Hi,
Any suggestions on how to get the balls from hanging up in the piano. They go in but sit in there and do not roll out.

Quoted from arthurrag:

Hi,
I removed the washers that were originally tilting the device. Checked my level from 5 to 6 degrees on the high side and reassembled with toothpicks in the screw holes and all seems to be working now. I'll see how it goes over the next few days. Thank you to all for the help.

Quoted from Manny65:

Great diagram ... think I've seen that before somewhere

Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

Let’s see what I can do [quoted image]

Quoted from Sunsfan23:

Does anyone currently offer those red or blue clock housings? I’m interested in purchasing one

Quoted from NYP:

Source for new clear clock housings? Only ones I was able to find were in Australia, if anyone knows where these can be bought please message me, TIA