(Topic ID: 63352)
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Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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1 week later
Just recieved my TZ decals from PPS, and it has me a little concerned- Head decals look fine, but to me, on the main cabinet, the red on gumball machine looks faded, the orange on the clock looks "creamcicle" or peach rather than orange, and the yellow around the sun looks faded rather than bright yellow.
I included one photo that compares the yellow-orange-red in the door on the head (correct in my opinion) to the "faded" yellow-orange-red on the main cab decal.
Thoughts???
EDIT: If I didn't know any better, I'd say the yellow on the printing of the main cab was jacked up- looks like there's not enough yellow
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:, the yellow print is wrong.
I agree. It's almost like there wis little to no yellow during the printing of these... It's not the lighting/flash. If you look at the photo where I have the head decals sitting right next to the cab one, you can see the difference. the head decals IMO are perfect. The real kicker to me is the peach colored clock. It is definitely screwed up. I looked at 10 different HEP photos, as well as a TC photo, and it's obviously wrong.
Quoted from Neal_W:I notice the sun is a white circle between the letters T and Z in the last photo. On my cab, that is almost all yellow, with just a thin section of white at the horizon
I agree. In these decals, the yellow is so muted you can hardly make out the break between the white sun and where the yellow starts. I'm really not happy with them. About the retailer whom I bought them through- I bought TOTAN decals from them and they were spot on!
1 week later
Quoted from NathB:My first post on pinside
Quoted from NathB:I love playing but don't have much knowlage of how these things work (or how to fix them)
You jumped right into the fire as far as being new in the hobby/owning your first pin relates to maintenance & servicing. TZ can be a bitch when trying to sort errors & issues out. You found the right place though! Congrats!
Here's a new one... (to me, anyway)
Was looking in the manual at the Slot machine kicker bracket/coil assembly and noticed something weird. Why does the manual call for an AE-25-1000 coil (see picture) but all of the actual games I've seen (including mine) have an AE-24-900 coil installed? Are they the same coil?
Quoted from Coyote:seeing you sand it up makes me cry.
I guess I could've stuck with the ultra-fade... TZ was a black & white show after all!! BUT.... I really like the original colors... and I like resto projects!
1 week later
Finally finished my TZ restoration. This ones a keeper for sure. the PPS Next gen decals for the main cab were a little muted, but I'm happy with the results
Quoted from TheLaw:but the GLM powerfield switch kit really is a sleek look.
I've seen that one talked about quite a bit. I'll do that one for sure, maybe in the fall. Are the rail switches more sensitive than the stock microswitch ones?
Quoted from Djude:Or, is there one of these available in the aftermarket. The rod goes down into the top of a solenoid under the play field.
I use this place whenever I can- http://littleshopofgames.com/product/twilight-zone-bridge-wire-actuator-12-7082/
Quoted from scampcamp:Just wondering if any of you decided to put in other post rubber colors besides the original black? If so... what did you think looked best?
I put in superbands red, blue and yellows throughout the game and seem to get tons of air-balls off the two next to the ramps. Might change back to black
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from scampcamp:sometimes the ball has a hard time kicking up all the way to get to the gumball machine
There's a mod on here somewhere that shows someone adding washers to the auto-fire kicker arm pivot to take out the slack so it strikes/launches the ball consistently every time....
Quoted from scampcamp:I did make a Marco order but hopefully I can cancel since it's Sunday & they probably haven't packed it yet..... they have enough of my $$
What did you order? just a few new microswitches and diodes? If you don't have any on hand, it wouldn't be a bad idea to keep the order and have them on hand for when that switch, or any other does need to be replaced. A few things about those switches- when they start becoming intermittent (flaky) it's usually the actuation button on the switch body itself that gets gummed up, and in my experiences it's just better to replace them. I like to stick to the original cherry switches that Pinball Life still carries because you can interchange the wire actuators, and use the "switch body" as a replacement on different microswitches. The Marco ones are the newer style where the levers cannot interchange.
Here's the Pinball Life one I spoke of: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1860
You will also need new 1N004 Diodes for those: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1N4004
Hope this helps. -Dan
scampcamp, the ball eject trough has a powerball sensor that detects the powerball BEFORE its shot into the skill-shot scoop and ejected out of the slot scoop. your problem may be the powerball detection sensor/board which is
near the shooter lane under the playfield
Quoted from Neal_W:often the connector there can have cold solder joints.
my game has the harness plug wires that are notorious for causing intermittent powerball detection soldered directly to the pins on the header. it works great, I do have the aftermarket replacement board set (red boards) but haven't installed yet since the soldered original is still working fine
Quoted from scampcamp:it worked correctly but did eventually stop. So
what stopped? powerball detection? you mean the game loses track of the powerball? if so, then everything we've said about the 2 different eddy sensors is relevant. Ramegooms post sums it up great. in my experiences, it's usually the trough sensor/PCB that's the culprit on that issue. don't think its a microswitch in the slot kicker...
I'm pretty sure the only time the slot kickout delays firing the powerball is when it pauses to say "POWERBALL"
This occurs when:
1. the powerball is in the lower trough, and is the next ball served (thus being detected by eddy board #1 at the ball trough) EDIT: and is shot INTO the skillshot, not the rocket kicker
2. the powerball is served to the slot kicker via the gumball machine through the lower subway (thus being detected by eddy board #2 under the LH subway)
I'm pretty sure the eddy boards do a lot of "ball tracking" that we don't see, thus keeping track of where the Powerball is.
Also- I'm running Game ROM L-4, I believe the the 9.4H Rom has addressed some Powerball tracking issues, and may behave a bit different than what I'm describing for my game
4 weeks later
Quoted from Coyote:So, uh.. silly question for those that have gumballs in their machine..
What happens when you have to take the center ball guide out, and the balls get everywhere into the machine?
Each half of the gumball globe molding (front & rear) have sidewalls molded into them that separate that area from the pinball area.
2 weeks later
Well, I was gonna say Little Shop Of Games- I bought mine back in April from them but looks like they are out as well.. 
Quoted from Bigbossfan:Anyone know where else I could look to order one from??
EDIT- Thought it was K's Arcade- was wrong, changed it to LSOG
Marco sells the sensors, but they look to be the OEM ones... No trough board though
Trough sensor:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16528
subway eddy sensor:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16535
Quoted from Bigbossfan:Anyone know where else I could look to order one from??
Quoted from Pinballgeek:all i can say is poor Tz
It's like..... I don't know..... everything that I (and probably most TZ owners/fans) love about the game is coated & masked with a bunch of garbage... What a shame..
Quoted from Coyote:that was too much of a stretch...
"Don't touch The Doors...don't touch THE DOORS....DON'T TOUCH THE DOORS
1 week later
Quoted from arcadenerd925:How was the gumball install?
Easy. took less than 2 minutes. First, I divided them into 2 equal piles. Next, I removed the gumball lid and pressed each one in where the 2 halves if the clear globe come together. slight bit of an "interference fit" but no problem
Quoted from scampcamp:Is that a red clock housing or the reflection from the piano mod? Either way.... it looks great.
Red Housing. Was going to do a Blue one, but when only red was in stock at the time when I restored it. I like it as well!
Quoted from Jimmyapple:3) I need a new/spare speaker panel. Anything available under 150? Or know how to fix a dent in the plastic?
Little shop of Games has them brand new. It says 9 in stock. I bought a bunch of TZ stuff from them. Great people!
http://littleshopofgames.com/product/twilight-zone-speaker-panel-31-1420-50020/
you have two flipper return springs on there. the smaller one is the correct one, but the larger one is from an older type of flipper assembly. 2 springs = double the resistance when the flipper is actuated. this could be contributing to the weakness. Remove the larger spring around the coil shaft. Keep the smaller one connected between the "wing" and the EOS bracket
EDIT: Also, I read on Pinside here somewhere that there are different length coil stops. not sure if this applies to this game, but may contribute to the problem
Here's a good thread outlining "everything you need to know about flippers.......and more!"
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
Quoted from Timmah:So I rebuilt my left flipper and... oh my. The ball absolutely explodes off of the bat now.
That's great news! The game is so much more fun when everything works and sounds right, including flipper strength!
Quoted from Timmah:es indeed I soooo wish I had done it years ago - it's such a huge improvement and other than removing the old coil sleeve, it really wasn't all that hard.
Can you successfully backhand the left ramp with the left flipper while the ball is cradled? If so, then that's success!
Quoted from Luppin:after around 30/60 seconds, the clock stop misbehaving and the machine works perfectly
Could it be thermistor related?
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Post some pics when you install them!
I need to paint them first, I think gold for TOTAN, what color for TZ? Red?? maybe Blue?
Quoted from wizard_mode:switch 2 (lower right) on the power field does not spring back open for some reason
Have you tried adjusting the switch? Remove the grey rubber cover and loosen the 2 screws and move the bottom of the switch away from mini PF until the small button pops out, then re-tighten. If the button on the microswitch is sticky (flaky) then replace the switch with a new one:
Quoted from wizard_mode:Has anyone actually tried cleaning these little switches though?
I have with electrical contact cleaner. works so-so, but really should be replaced. What I've found out is the less a game is played (sits for weeks or months at a time) the more they will stick initially, but then "loosen up", even with the electrical contact cleaner.
pretty easy to just swap the DA3 switch body, add a diode, swap the blade actuator, and you're done for now. then do the GLM mini-PF switches swap later- that is an all day event from what I read about it!
EDIT: here's the cleaner I've used. Like I said it works, but is only short-term
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI
1 week later
Quoted from d0n:but you can't tell time with it.
it's really no different that one of these. Clocks and watches have been around for years without numbers or tick marks.
Also, the clock is really only used to tell how much time is left in a door panel mode, correct?
Quoted from stpcore:OK, so this is the test prototype version 4. I've added numbers to pay homage to the original clock style and have brightened up the clock face in order to better see the clock hands while in motion.
Looks great!! I still like your original with no numbers better!
Quoted from cheshirefilms:hold down the left flipper and keep it down, till you smoothly slam the ball with your middle flipper into the camera.
Sorry if I sound like a dick, but everyone I know that's been a TZ fan since day 1 (1993) and an avid player of the game knows this!!
Quoted from vilant:Question about the pop bumper caps. It was mentioned earlier
Quoted from stpcore:Got my blue clock housing from Mantis Amusements for $50. It's perfect.
The Red one is pretty sweet as well!!
Quoted from scampcamp:I noticed that when it's in a resting place that it slants to the back slightly.
Your Crossover wire ramp is not seated properly. Either at the mini playfield end or at the right metal ramp end. this was how mine was when I bought it
EDIT: Also- the metal wire leg attachment directly below the bridge diverter will need to be loosened and re-tightened too
Quoted from scampcamp:do you see anything wrong?
It looks good, but you might want to loosen the attachment at the mini PF as well as the one directly below the diverter, and see if the ramp can be moved "back" towards the rear of the machine. On mine, the two wires that seat under the metal ramp weren't in all the way causing the ramp to be sitting more "forward" in the machine. at the other end, the mini playfield itself may not be in the correct position, so check that as well. It bight be sitting too forward in the machine also.
At the end of the day, the wire ramp sitting too far forward (towards front of machine in top view) is what causes the diverter to not lie down all the way. Its not the wire/coil under the PF, so no need to try fixing it by screwing with them
EDIT: I should also point out- The main cause of mine not seating properly was the wire ramp at the metal ramp end behind the clock. It was too far forward my about 1/4 of an inch, essentially it wasn't really seated. That, along with the nut under the diverter fixed it
dirverter not seated (resized).JPG
dirverter not seated-02 (resized).JPG
Quoted from scampcamp:do you see anything wrong?
I studied the photos a little more, and it looks like your mini PF could move rearward more. That may be the cause
EDIT: Look at the picture of mine in my last post. That's what the mini PF should look like seated in that metal channel (1st image)
Quoted from scampcamp:Something strange happens now though... when the ball goes up curved metal ramp... the ball diverter tilts down way before the ball gets there like it's doing it pretty much after it goes by that sensor on the metal curved ramp. Not sure what I did for this to happen. Thanks again for your help
Yeah, that's strange- I think the diverter is a delayed action triggered by the opto at the top of the metal ramp where the wire bridge begins- I'd check there first
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Mine does the exact same thing, I too am curious as to why. It just hasnt bugged me enough lately to post, lol.
I think the way the diverter works is like this.... and if it's not, then I'm sure the Twilight Zone Yoda Pinsider Coyote can chime in and let us know!
When the ball is hit up the right ramp, and Battle the power is NOT lit, once the ball passes the opto at the top of the right ramp, it triggers a "delayed dump" for the diverter. Once the ball is dumped, and strikes a target, slingshot, rollover switch, etc. then that is that, and the diverter only dumps that one time. If the ball does NOT strike, or register any opto, switch, slingshot in X amount of seconds after being dumped by the diverter, the diverter will fire a SECOND time, thus thinking the ball may have gotten to the diverter after the first dump..
I believe this is written into the software, at least into the L-4 ROM, because that's what I have in my machine.
Hope this makes sense!
EDIT: Just saw Bowlingpin answered above, but in about 500 less words!! sorry for the double post!
1 week later
Quoted from wizard_mode:Can anyone snap a pic of their EB button wiring so I can figure out which wires go where?
Quoted from wizard_mode:Ok its fixed! I took off the scoop and found a thicker than usual washer between the scoop and the PF in one of the 3 screw locations (the one closest to the subway). Seemed strange so I removed it. No more bricks!
Hmmmm... I noticed mine had the same washer (on the I.B. side where it opens into the subway) and I get bricks as well about 20% of the time. I think I will remove that washer!
Quoted from wizard_mode:yeah brick shots are normal for the lock shot
ain't that the truth.....
1 month later
Not sure if anyone is still looking for Proximity board sets, but K's Arcade has them back in stock
https://ksarcade.net/proximity-board-set-for-twilight-zone.html
1 month later
2 weeks later
Quoted from scampcamp:Now I am going to take apart the credit button
Yeah, getting them off is usually way harder than getting them back together. Looong skinny needle-nosed pliers worked for me!
3 weeks later
Quoted from wizard_mode:Anybody done LED star posts with the GLM low profile powerfield switch kits? I was thinking it would be sweet to have the powerfield light up whenever the switches are hit. Wondering where to tap in for powering the LED star posts...
I'm interested in doing this same thing to mine. Would be cool to see a tutorial of sorts, including how to wire the LED chips under the posts
EDIT: I'm pretty sure it has to utilize this board, but wiring it up is what would be nice to see
http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/images/splint21a.jpg
1 week later
Quoted from Coyote:More subjective, I see a lot of people "color match" inserts to LED colors. This is kinda impossible (well, without using RGB LEDs, I suppose) since there are two different reds used in inserts (door parks and outlanes) and I think two different oranges used. Color match, and you lose the slight variation there..
I used all Comet on all my games, including TZ. non-ghosting 2SMD faceted on under playfield inserts. as far as color-matching the inserts, Comet recommends to use warm white on all amber and yellow inserts in order to keep their color true. all other inserts are color matched and look fantastic. I did run into a slight problem on my Arabian nights- The ball lock insert plastics are more of a teal-blue color, and look better to use white instead of blue on them. The genie smoke I used blue and the look awesome.
Oh, and on TOTAN, GI OCD and LED OCD are a MUST, regardless of whether or not non-ghosting are used
Quoted from Coyote:So did they send you two different red colors? I only saw one on their site, but..
The doors are Red, which I used Red in.. The outlanes (special, right?) are dark amber, like the pop bumper, which I used white it. Pretty sure thats how I did it
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Are you using the LED OCD in your TZ?
I will be. I have both GI and LED OCD boards yet to install, but need to switch to Ingos clock board before doing GI. I did both boards on my TOTAN, Which has all Comets including flashers and the game is friggin amazing!! can't wait to do my TZ. I could do the LED OCD board only for now, but will wait tomdo them at the same time when I get the new clock board
Quoted from arcadenerd925:should I still get premium non-ghosting LED's if using the OCD boards?
As far as my games go, I bought the LED bulbs long before buying the OCD boards, therefore I have the Comet Optix non-ghosting in all of my PF inserts. The look great! But like Coyote said, since you already plan on getting the OCD boards, maybe not needed. My insert lamps on my TOTAN with the LED OCD boards look EXACTLY like dimming incandescents, and they are the Optix LEDs
EDIT: on a side note- the Ultimate Optix bulbs are VERY bright.
Quoted from simplykind:One issue left and we're rockin!
What's left to fix? Maybe we can help!!!!
http://www.treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/twilight-zone/twilight-zone.htm
Quoted from Cheeks:Any recommendations on a backboard decal?
Backboard decal #2 with the whirlpool galaxy and spiral
Quoted from Luppin:Do they sell the b&w translite? I d be fine just with that..
I was browsing for sale games, came across this TOM and in the background of this photo I saw what looks like the B&W TZ that someone was working on a while back. Maybe he has a B&W translite? Its Great American Pinball.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-theatre-of-magic-10
EDIT: It's picture 5 of 9
Quoted from Deadpin:So suddenly these 4 lights under the plastic have decided to stop lighting. Everything else is working as normal. Any thoughts on what to check 1st?
When I was installing LED bulbs on mine, I caused a short and blew a fuse. there are probably some more out on the left side mid and upper as well if it's the fuse. check manual
1 week later
What are the point of these clear decals? I could understand the need if these machines were on route
Looks like you found the problem. In your photo, your plugs are in the right location according to the manual. you need a new connector for J121. Brown, return to PF (Pin 1) is melted off!
Replace Plug connector, re-attach wire and you should be in business
Quoted from tonyf1965:This machine is loaded with problems.
Please don't hesitate to share! Maybe we can all help out in some way!
-Dan
Quoted from DruTheFu:Have you happen to take a look at my thread I posted above in #3420?
I took a peek, seems like a lot of great pinheads already pointed you in the right direction! seems to me that all your locked on flashers are board related, the upper RH switch is probably dead and needs to be replaced, and as far as your LEDs fluttering, that's normal unless you buy LED OCD boards from Pinsider Herg and install them.
Quoted from DruTheFu:As for the lamp issue, the issue is not that the lamps are fluttering (forgot to mention they are not fluttering), it's that when running through the "Single Lamps" (T.8) test for individual lamps, additional lamps are turning on when they are not the lamps being selected. For example, when I select Lamp 75 "Power Payoff" to test, not only does lamp 75 light up as it should, but lamps 84 (Piano Red) and 85 (Slot Machine) also light up, when they should not. I'll be updating my thread with a more current Lamp Matrix findings table that I updated after additional troubleshooting took place last night
I'm no expert on that- but to me, it sounds like lamp matrix issues which I believe are CPU board related. There are usual checks for that- re-seat all ribbon cables & connectors, re-seat (push in) all chips, etc. Is there any repair work/corrosion on the CPU under the battery holder spot? If so, that could be related.
Quoted from DruTheFu:'m strongly considering spending the $42 for the Rottendog replacement A-16100 8-Driver PCB board to hopefully address the locked on flashers.
I think these rottendog boards are good replacements, and, if for no other reason, good surrogates to use while sending out the original boards. I own a Power Driver board myself for a back-up
Quoted from Damien:Out of curiosity, does anyone know what a TZ was selling for back in 1993?
I seem to remember read $2500 USD somewhere
Quoted from Coyote:Would like to hear from other TZ owners on this.
Standard BW legs all the way around on mine. Bought from Pinball Life when I restored it. 6.5 degree PF with the rear Levelers extended all the way and the fronts bottomed out
I attached a pic to show their positioning
Quoted from Coyote:Interesting that others have the same legs on front and back. I'm curious to hear from another sample owner to see if theirs is the same. I guess it's possible that in the moving of my games, I got legs mixed up..! But, hard to say..
I seem to remember reading SOMEWHERE (the internets a big place!) about TZ sample games having the odd leg lengths. I'm really surprised you're not 100% on this one Coyote, you know everything about this game!!
Quoted from Neal_W:Mine has 3 holes for each leg and large bolt plates with 3 holes that can be seen from inside. Maybe your bolt plates were worn and swapped with standard ones or maybe your cab was swapped and decaled.
Mine is an Original TZ cab (NOT sample or prototype) and has the 3-hole threaded plates as well
Quoted from lyonsden:I have a sample and all the legs are the same length. 28.5"
For some reason, I think I remember reading that the sample games were normalized, but the PROTOTYPE games had the different length legs...
Quoted from Damien:Love the game, but I'm not sure about those bumpers.
"Death on the left side" is one of Twilight Zones signature features. You need to learn how to be a "right side of the playfield" type of person and avoid the pops (like Coyote said) at ALL COSTS. Also the dead-end shot from the right lower flipper thru the pops is SUICIDE, and the reward is not worth the risk!
Quoted from Damien:Curious to know what you guys put up as an average score.
Average, 350-600 million, but this is my high of all time- Factory 3 ball settings with special award being an extra ball
Quoted from nosro:I have my left outlane post set to the narrowest point and have fresh rubbers
me too-
Quoted from cavalier88z24:Sorry to interrupt your programming. But finally after a long search it has come home to me. A project twilight zone. In the club! Period
welcome to the club! it's an awesome group, you'll love it just as much as the machine! please share all your restore progress!
Quoted from calprog:Just finishing up my TZ. Had fun restoring and modding the machine. I am adding one last item- The Slot Machine! The machine is nice and bright now like a new machine. All new rubbers, leds, color dmd, rebuilt flippers etc. A ton of new parts.
Why did you use an FL11629-light blue coil on the lower left flipper? this coil will cause airballs and beat the snot out of the slot/clock targets, even the reinforced ones. A properly dialed in TZ can make backhands up the left ramp and all other shots with the called for FL15411 coil
Just curious why you used it!
Quick question for Ingo clock board peeps- Does the clock HAVE to be at 12:00 to do a board swap from, say a rottendog board?
Or can it be at whatever time, and as long as you know what it was and re-assemble back to that.
I tried to install it over the weekend and it would not work. I did NOT zero it out to 12:00 though.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:how "off" was it?
The clock started it's self diagnostic on boot up and during the initial forward advance, it just stopped and froze, then peddled the press enter for test report deal. Game has zero credit dot, so I know it was clock broke error. It's the same thing it did to me when I got the game when the original optos on the front (minute hand) were flaking out. It's almost as if the front optos on the new board were not working/registering. I studied it and it looked as if the minute hand WAS breaking the opto planes, so I'm at a loss. I did NOT go into clock test and run that, I turned it off immediately for fear of frying something.
EDIT: after the Ingo clock board failed to work, I replaced it with my working board and it worked fine again.
Quoted from Coyote:Run clock test with Ingo's board. See what you get.
Yeah, that's my next job-
Quoted from Coyote:Amusing, and if it don't bother you, I'd keep it..
yeah, it's pretty cool... i will look at the right one to see if it has it too next time I think about it!!
Quoted from Vin:in the market for my first pin (which will be a TZ).
Pretty large step for first pinball machine. A properly working TZ is a sight to behold, and easy to maintain, but when they have multiple problems, they can be a S.O.B. to diagnose.... One thing's for sure, cutting your teeth on this title will prepare you for most all other machines!
Quoted from dusin1:I noticed the instruction cards and how the graphics blend with the apron. Are they available anywhere?
I got these back when I restored my TZ....
Quoted from merccat:I believe Pinside downscales them.
Well, sorry to say that that resolution is the same as the ones I printed for the machine. It looks good anyways.. I believe that they came from somewhere here on Pinside. the first 3 came from pinballcards.com as the watermark says and are much higher resolution. I looked through TONS of cards before settling on these!
Quoted from merccat:Could it be that they applied a decal base to screen print on top of?
Yes- Pretty sure that's what "screen printed cabinets" were.... they had a base (white?) vinyl applied to the wood and then that was printed on.. I believe the later cabs like MB and CC had the vinyl applied to the cab wood AFTER they were printed on, like all repros are today
Quoted from Lermods:Looks Iike a decal to me.
Silkscreened on to white vinyl after the white vinyl was already applied to the cab I believe.
There are posts here on Pinside regarding the "generic white vinyl-then screen printed" thing, but I do not know where. The posts all revolve around the removal of earlier ones such as these, versus later ones like Cactus Canyon & Monster Bash which were definitely decals that were printed BEFORE being applied to the cabinets.
EDIT: here's a link I found regarding cabinet printing.
Quoted from Miguel351:Does anybody know if Ingo, german-pinball , is still on holiday? I sent him a PM over a week ago and he hasn't responded yet.
My white board did not work, e-mailed him over 2 weeks ago and never heard anything back
1 week later
Quoted from Miguel351:once you've got everything together and working properly, the accomplishment and satisfaction you'll feel for having a fully working and mostly reliable TZ is fantastic.
This, is a true statement! Before I bought my 1st pin, I inquired about a TZ from a person that was selling multiple machines. They insisted I start with a much less complicated pin, which I did. Now, several pins later, having owned a TZ that I fully restored, and having it run reliably in perfect working order is a great feeling.
Quoted from LitzDoc:Strategy on how to get to LITZ
Piano, Slot Machine, Win battle the power, REPEAT... but not necessarily in that order, until all door panels are solidly lit
1 week later
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:An opto is an opto - you can replace them with anything from PBL or Marco as long as it fits (I think there are 2 different sizes)
I don't think this applies to the Pinbits one for the 3rd magnet kit they sell. Their website says that their opto reciever is a special one that eliminates the need for the add-on board, this may mean it has firmware/logic on it or something, which would differentiate it from a standard opto reciever.
LitzDoc, definitely wait to hear back from Pinbits
Maybe some other TZ Pinhead could add to this?
Quoted from KornFreak28:Been noticing the top ball diverter next to the mini playfield moving up at random for no particular reason during play
when the ball is hit up the right ramp, and the diverter dumps the ball back on the playfield, if a switch is not contacted within a certain amount of seconds, the diverter actuates as an "auto-flush" because of bouce backs on the diverter. it's written into the software.
Quoted from BeaglePuss:plan on attempting to re-decal my TZ this summer, so I'm going to start picking people's brains now. What in particular sucked, and what (if anything) would you do differently the next time around? I'm dreading do it, but know that it will be so worth it once it's done.
I've re-decaled 2 games now with TZ being the second, and everything Chosen_s said is really accurate. I didn't however, do mine "wet" with rapid tac, I did them dry because when doing the entire cabinet, I didn't want to have to wait for one side to dry before doing the other side. If you chose to do them dry, a "plug" panel for the coin door helps tremendously when doing the front.
I used a Bosch rotary sander very very similar to the festool sander to remove all the old decals, this process using 60 grit sandpaper. I guess the most important thing when doing decals is patience and preparation. Like Chosen_S said with bondo on the cabinet- make sure the cabinet is perfectly smooth, free of grain lines and nicks. T Hose things will stand out on a mostly black decaled game. THe other thing that's important is use a tack rag to wipe down the cab just before applying the decals. Try to do the decaling in a low-dust environment if you can. Don't do them outside.
Here are some photos of mi re-decal job on my TZ.
2 months later
Quoted from Coyote:Agreed - I wouldn't and won't touch another board, other than Ingo's. The quality is there, and it's solidly built.
My Ingo board was DOA, and still doesn't work. Sits on a shelf in my workshop
3 weeks later
Quoted from Boof-Ed:So decal or not to decal?
Decal. Without a doubt. My cab was faded just like yours.....
2 months later
I had a really weird thing happen with my TZ last night..... My ball lock popper solenoid has need adjustment for some time, so last night I finally did it. After putting the game back together, (drop PF, reinstall balls, glass lockbar) I played a few games and during game play, the entire game died. Now, I have color DMD installed, so it's screen was lit, but all black. I cycled the power, and still the game was in the same state. Powered down, unplugged the game, removed the backglass and went through all plugs, ribbon cables and re-seated them all. I then pressed on all socketed chips on both sound board and CPU including the ASIC.... Turned the game back on, and worked fine. I did have the vertical bars in the display, but after screwing with the ribbon cables, I fixed that too.
I then played about 10 games, and it all seems fine.
Any Ideas?
EDIT: It was definitely the TWILIGHT ZONE!
1 week later
Hey fellow TZ owners, I'm having some weird intermittent issues with Column 7 on my TZs switch matrix. was wondering if any of you can help. I posted the original help thread in Tech Modern Games here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-switch-matrix-issues#post-4094122
2 weeks later
Quoted from cavalier88z24:so I replaced my stock plastic clock housing with a UV green one. I wanted it to be loud as possible. something that really stands out. what do you think?
Well, It's pretty cool, but looks more like the color of Slimer in Ghostbusters than a TZ thing-
2 months later
Quoted from per3per3:the left is 11629 and the right is 15411. The right one feels noticeably more powerful than the left and I thought it was wrong but the manual says 15411 is the right coil.
15411 coils (Orange wrappers) are definitely the correct coils for this game, and when paired with completely re-built flippers as well as a properly leveled playfield, are strong enough to make all the ramp shots, including the left flipper backhand up the left ramp.
11629 coils (light blue wrapper) are way too strong for this game, and are mostly responsible for all the destroyed clock and slot targets you tend to see in some of them.
you probably only need to re-build the flipper mechs, and also replace the coils and sleeves with new ones, and the game will work fine.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:11629's were switched into the stock game mid-way through the run.
Can anyone else verify this? I have never heard of this until now. My game came with 15411's (what manual says) and plays just fine.
Quoted from per3per3:I noticed that the flipper coils on my machine are different: the left is 11629 and the right is 15411.
My Indiana Jones was like this when I bought it (see image) I think the previous owner(s) did this to help with mode hole bounce-outs. I corrected it to the 11629 coils when I re-built them and restored the game.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Lloyd confirmed it back in 2013
Nowhere in that thread is Loyd actually commenting on that. Just some guy saying that he "thinks" Loyd confirmed it... same guy says the 15411 coil is the strongest, and 11629 is second strongest.... 
Again, I think the light blue 11629 coils are fine, but you put your game at risk for damaging parts.
Quoted from per3per3:Does anyone have an explanation as to why this would be considering the left flipper with the stronger coil (11629) should be the stronger of the two?
When you say "re-built" what do you mean? new coil sleeves, plungers, EOS switches and coil stops?
Is there ANY slop or play in the coil between the front stop and coil stop? (see image)
Does the coil still wiggle? If so, then it's possible the tab on the flipper bracket where the 2 socket head screws attach the coil stop is bent down, not allowing for a tight fit. This was the case on both my TZ and Indy. I had to take a crescent wrench and bend the tab back to straight.
ANY slight movement in the coil will cause it to act weak
were the coil sleeves free moving when you replaced them?
This photo is from my Dirty Harry
2 weeks later
Quoted from Durzel:As you can see it is screwed to the bracket underneath using the original lamp screws/screw holes. The lamps are just inserted into the holes in the piano.
Mine goes in the same way. The Piano mod covers up the MAIN service screw for the clock bracket.
Quoted from Coyote:While it's not recommended - you can try removing the two bottom screws on the back of the clock - this will remove it from the bracket. (Again, it's not recommended, and difficult to get anything but a stubby screwdriver in there..)
This is the only way my Piano mod I bought from DGoett will install.. No other way.. short screwdriver from what I recall on the 1 screw on the back of the clock.
I attached a photo on how I install my piano mod, and remove it when necessary
1 month later
Quoted from flynnibus:Mount the batter holder on the side of the head.
Make sure to mount it high enough to leave room for GI-OCD board if you ever plan on installing one in the future.
ALSO: If you have a Sample/Prototype game, I believe the 8-driver expansion board is here as well on TZ
(Image courtesy of LED-OCD)
4 months later
Quoted from jgadzia:bought a led set for my TZ off of ebay and when i stuck the flasher bulbs in the blinking backbox holders, the flashers dont blink. any suggestions besides putting back the original bulbs?
1 week later
Anyone know where I can get a jpg file of the questions card or the "1c Mystic seer" emblem so I can print it out? I'm building a topper.
Thanks!!!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Check this site:
http://www.mysticseer.com/the-mystic-seer
The guy behind is is named Daniel Livingston, he is a very friendly guy and engineer, and I believe he owns a Williams Space Shuttle to boot!
Thanks for the info! I emailed him that i’m interested in building one
1 week later
Quoted from Kensurfs:I’ll check when I get home. A guy on Facebook has a page with a few cards. I printed them for mine
Actually looking for the Grey and black emblem and mystic seer emblem to print out, in addition to the actual fortune cards. Any help would be great
Quoted from Squeakman:I despised TZ before I knew how to play it. I'd always walk up to it and the balls would drain fast before the real fun started. A friend of mine who plays tournaments showed me one night how to really play it and I fell in love. I think because it starts so damn slow and progressively gets more fun most people never really see what it has to offer. I am still learning new things about it or hearing new sounds and i've owned mine for 4+ years now.
The other thing that typically plagued TZ back when it came out was when things were not working, or broken on the games and that would not allow players to ever see what it had to offer. Finding a game in the wild in the early 90's that COMPLETELY worked seemed to be a tall order. Even the games at the local arcades which were maintained very well, seemed to always have something wrong with them. The powerball tracking, flipper strength and broken clock were the common ones.... I love mine, and will NEVER EVER sell it!!!
DSC05686 (resized).JPG
1 month later
Quoted from Marvin:you can always accept that its an early 90's game and enjoy it for what it is.
I agree. Why are people always trying to change the Pre-DCS synthesized sound into non-synthesized sound? I don't get this. To me, it's what makes those games unique, and part of their identity. I understand the need to upgrade lighting to LEDs because of heat and power improvements, but screwing with the sound seems like you're trying to turn the games into something else. I feel the same way about "MOD-overload" as well
3 months later
Quoted from russdx:Hello
I have a weak top right lock kickout coil. It really struggles when a few balls are queued up. Does this require a new coil or just a new sleeve? Have others had similar issue? how did you resolve.
Thanks
I had this problem about a year ago. For some reason, the plunger bell crank was NOT perfectly aligned to the center of ball #1 in the ball trough. THink of a cue stick striking the cue ball in pool. when one ball was in the trough, it would usually kick it out no problem, maybe take 2 tries. But if 2 or 3 were in there, it would have to re-fire like 3-6 times or more to eject that first ball.
FIX: make sure the bracket/coil plunger strike ball one perfectly in the center of the ball by adjusting the wood screws that hold the bracket to the playfield. Hope this helps you
5 months later
Quoted from jawjaw:Anyone get the clock broken error with Ingo's board? I get it now and then but error goes away. Clock seems to work fine so not sure if that is just a TZ thing.
My white, Ingo clock board was broken right out of the box. Clock Broken error, could NOT get it to work. I must have received a bad board from him..It's now a decoration in my restore shop
I have a Rottendog in there currently, which works perfectly, as did the original board that came with the game. Never an error.
1 month later
Quoted from NibbyNub:Hello everyone. Just picked up my first machine. Now making my first post. Many more to come as I sort through the majority of issues, clean gunk and buying new parts. I have over 20 years of love for TZ and now I own my first. Cant wait to get started.
Excellent choice in "1st pin" however; TZ is a rather complex game, so when things get out of whack, and when have many questions, you came to the right place!!!!
3 months later
1 month later
Quoted from spblat:Cooked up some new apron cards.
The look really similar to mine that I've had for 4 years plus
DSC05695 (resized).JPGQuoted from Manny65:I really like the look - do you still have the file you made?
I did not create them, and cannot remember where they came from. I do not have the file any longer, sorry. I thought It was on this thread way back in the beginning
1 week later
Quoted from misterman:Anyone know what resistor I will need?
Pretty sure it's a diode, and not a resistor
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1N4004
diode (resized).JPGQuoted from PinJim:Also noteworthy, if you loosen the small screws that attach the switch to the bracket, you can adjust the angle of the switch which will effect when it’s activated. Often I’ve found that to be the problem with micro switches, poorly adjusted...
I agree with this. I have seen that the tiny buttons on the microswitch become gummed up, and start to not pop back out and make the audible "click" If that's the case, the switch WILL be intermittent, and no adjusting will fix it.
It's also possible that the 2 screws attaching the switch to the metal bracket are over-tightened. This will also cause the button under the wireform to not pop back out reliably.
So when you manually trigger the wire lever in and out, you MUST hear the "click" of the button I circled below BOTH ways. On bad/flaky switches I've replaced in the past, you may hear it depressing, but not returning and vice versa. It must be an audible "click" both ways. On rare occasion you may hear clicks both ways, but something inside the switch body is not making final contact.
button (resized).JPG
EDIT: ALSO- Make sure when you are soldering the new Diode onto the new switch (unless you buy a new switch with one already attached) you make sure to:
1. Solder the legs to the proper lugs
2. Make sure the silver band on the diode is facing the correct direction. This matters
1 week later
Quoted from DEREKSINDENVER:but after a month I can’t seem to leave this thing alone.
I promised my wife early last year that we would sell TZ when we took delivery of our Wonka.
We still have TZ...........AND Wonka. Hard pin to sell. Especially since I have a really nice original condition one.
Yeah, My Marco kit for Indy was wrong with a few, and missing a few. The best luck I've had is with PCX pinball off of Ebay.... Here's a TZ link for a shop kit I used
ebay.com link: 1993 Bally Midway Twilight Zone Pinball Tune up Kit Includes Rubber Ring Kit
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:They were all tight, every coil. No damage to any of the coils and machine is in excellent condition so think I can rule out bad coils.
Coils that exhibit tight fits to brand new sleeves can still work properly. the issue is they've heated up at some point in their life, and the I.D. on the coil has reduced. My upper right flipper coil is like this. the only fix is to replace them. you may start seeing flippers that don't go down all the way with the return spring after the game's been played for long periods of time in one instance.
new coil sleeves slide in and out of new coils freely.
Quoted from Green-Machine:Not sure if this is on smoothing but this is bowlingpin pic of his pin on DMD- LCD Vs LED thread
To me, that looks like an LCD version with "Dot XL" turned on. Dot XL is larger dots than standard, which is the same size as plasma andLED.
the LED variety is not capable of Dot XL
Quoted from Green-Machine:Ok so there are pros and cons to the smoothing on different games, is my guess?
I've had ColorDMD LCDs on about 5 different games, and the smoothing on each one always looked weird to me. I set every game to DotXL. seems to look the best IMO
There are 4 settings I believe-
1. standard (dots same size as plasma/LED)
2. Dot XL (still dots, just bigger)
3. Square dot (like DotXL, just square!) can't remember what the real name is for this
4. Hires/Upscaling (smoothing)
Here's a good post that explains it somewhat
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-are-the-best-settings-for-colordmd
Quoted from Green-Machine:I have plans on getting the color DMD LCD for my TZ. So far it seems to be my choice
awesome. You won't regret it! Again, I only have the LCD units, and they are amazing. I have one on Tales Of the Arabian Nights as well and it looks just as awesome!!
TOTAN ColorDMD (resized).JPGQuoted from Green-Machine:trying to justify the cost
I was going to say the beauty with them is that they're portable between games, but from the looks of your line-up, TZ is the only one in need of color!!
Quoted from Durzel:How deep into the bracket at the back of the mini playfield should it be installed?
Mine is 1/2 way in, just like the other guy's post.
Capture (resized).JPG 1 week later
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Sigh..
All right; the TZ is still down as of today. I'm having a problem with the bottom lamp row; the start button, Ball lock 2 (door), the green lock insert, etc.
I have replaced transistor Q83 twice now. There is no way I've had 2 (er, 3) bad transistors in a row. And my soldering skills aren't great but I'm certainly capable of removing a through hole component and replacing it.
I am totally stuck as to what else this could be. The symptoms clearly indicate the transistor is shorted... but is there another possible explanation here? Could a diode down the path be shorted instead?
I have not changed any bubs, nor basically touched this game in months now because of this issue. I'm two steps away from buying a backup Rottendog and sending this out for repair.
I had a very similar problem with a switch matrix column flaking out that I could NOT pinpoint. I even bought a new Rottendog CPU to correct it. Turned out it was a broken spring contact inside the plug connector for the J206 plug. The "knuckle" was broken on one wire end, thus not making clean contact with the pin on the CPU pin header for only ONE wire (J206 pin 7) I replaced the 206 plug and fixed it.
This issue was VERY hard to diagnose. The only way I found it was pushing on ALL connectors one at a time when in edge test. it would make contact for that column (J206 is the column plug) while pushing on it only. In your case, sounds like the row plug for lamps, which is J133. I apologize if you already checked J133 and said so, but its worth a look.
My issue drove me NUTS for 2 weeks straight
-Dan
206 plug (resized).JPGQuoted from Rdoyle1978:Interesting. I’ll give it a shot, I am stumped at this point.
Hoping somebody can point out a step I may have missed; I replaced the transistor but there are also some diodes in that circuit path on the board that I suppose I should check as well.
Yeah. I feel you. Keep in mind that these plugs are IDC, and I initially thought wire 7 had a bad IDC connection to the plug under the cap, so I re-punched it. when that didn't fix it, I looked a little further into the plug itself to see the "knuckle" springboard half INSIDE the female part of the plug at position 7 missing.
FWIW....
EDIT: when you replaced Q83, did that lamp row work at ALL, even for a few seconds, or never even turn back on?
Rdoyle1978,
I did also have an even more similar problem with my Dirty harry lamp matrix. In that case, I had only 5 of 8 of the lamps on a column out, which made it easy for me to pinpoint the area of issue under the PF based on where the on/off separation was. It turned out to be a plug pin header on a lamp board. Cold/cracked solder joint. Since your entire row is out, makes it harder to find
To be honest, since LEDOCD deals directly with J133, might not be a bad idea to disconnect LEDOCD while trying to diagnose this. Just my opinion.
Doyle,
You were saying that maybe something else in the Q83 TIP-102 circuit on the PDB is causing it, here are the chips, resistors and capacitors that in that circuit- maybe it's one of them? I wonder if that LM339 chip could be the problem.
Again, I'm no expert, but here's something to look at anyway....Where's Zaza when you need him!!
TZ J133-9 (resized).JPGQuoted from Zukboy2002:Is there supposed to be something plugged in j120?
yes
01AE5527-6D4D-49DE-9C57-80C586A51999 (resized).jpegGlad to see that it is fixed. Maybe LEDOCD guy can help you diagnose the problem within it. THose sets were NOT cheap
1. remote battery holder
2. Diverter magnet
3. ColorDMD
4. LEDOCD.
5. single PCB clock board (Rottendog is what I used) get rid of the OEM clock board (dual)
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:the only clock board that works properly with LEDOCD is Ingo’s board.
This is not true. The rottendog board works just fine with it. In some instances, you need to reverse the soldered in leads on one or more of the 4 LEDs because of polarity, otherwise the LED(s) will not work when the GIOCD is installed. I had to reverse just one LED on it.
I cannot comment on the Ingo board, because mine that I ordered (white one) was delivered defective, and is now a decoration in my shop. All I am saying is the rottendog board will work also, and it's cheaper.
EDIT: I also want to say that GIOCD is not necessary on this game. I had mine for about 2 years with only the LEDOCD board installed, which fixes the strobing of the controlled lamps under the PF, because the GI on TZ doesn't really do much when compared to other and later games such as WPC95 games. WHen I finally installed my GIOCD board, I did not notice any real difference. I did, however, notice GIOCD difference massively on my Tales of the Arabian Nights
Quoted from Coyote:IMHO, Rottendog makes horrid quality boards. With experiences of having to fix other local's machines using them, I'll never get one again. And Ingo always backs up his stuff - if you didn't contact him to let him know, it's on you, sorry.
sent him info regarding this, zero response. my TZ had been running the rottendog board for 3+ years no problems.
Also- It's on HIM, SORRY! I did attempt to contact him. The fact that the guy is "always away or out of town" is on him, not me.
Quoted from awesome1:I'm sure you did, but make sure GI dimming is turned on in the system settings.
I did. I do this to all my games whenever I install LED bulbs. Not saying it doesn't help, but when I had my Indiana Jones, I was ready to yank the GI board from TZ and put it in it instead! I never did- Sold Indy- Kept TZ.
TZ is my grail pin, and will never be sold.
EDIT: I see you said ON.... all my B/W games with LEDs have it off. I will try it and see. Thanks!!
Quoted from Navystan:See picture that shows distance from rear plastic ramp to top of glass channel. It's about 4 1/2 inches. A friend with a TZ says his is about 4 inches.
Check your PF side rails to see if they are cracked/broken. this will cause the rear portion to sag. because the wooden side rails are covered in a black, wood grain shelf paper substance, you need to inspect them really closely. It’s the glued finger joints underneath that usually separate.
Quoted from Navystan:Thanks. Will check
Here are the rails I'm referring to- They are INSIDE the cabinet on the top of the playfield. They tend to crack/separate over time causing the portion of the playfield rear of the hinges to sag.
PF rails TZ (resized).JPGPF rails TZ 2 (resized).JPGQuoted from Green-Machine:I noticed his cabinet doesn’t look Like an original TZ cab
Noticed how? Aftermarket decals? Just want to know what denotes a "non-TZ" widebody cabinet by just looking at the outside.
You did not answer my question. You said it does not LOOK like a TZ cabinet to you. Why? What tells you it's not a TZ cabinet from just looking at it?? I've owned 3 widebody bally/williams games, (popeye, TZ, Indy) and all 3 games have completely different cabinet fronts, and the playfield hinge bolts are in different locations. I just want to know how you can tell by looking at the photo that it is not a TZ cabinet. The front looks right to me.
The giany list of widebody games has zero to do with anything.
1 week later
Quoted from Jjsmooth:Nos replacement sling plastics were still in cabinet (with manual!)
This is how my Tales of The Arabian Nights was. It had that plus the sling mylars, and a few operator supplements as well as the big schematic manual. Everything looks as though its never been touched. not even a crease in the operator manual binding.
Nice find!!
9 months later
Quoted from Parker_tz:and I want the original left one.
I just purchased this one a few months ago, and I'm not regretting it at all- Best one I've seen in my opinion. the stupid metal one from PDI that's like 300 bucks is a rip-off.
This sign is very similar to the original deleted one,
ebay.com link: Twilight Zone Pinball Spiral Sign
TZ-Left Sign (resized).jpgMines been on for a while and has not fallen off. I used a jewelers screwdriver to bend in the metal tabs in the wedge socket to tighten it up and that works fine. Like I said- tons of plays, has not fallen off for me
2 months later
Hey all- I’m not really a mod guy, But I really like the Laretroienda Robot, so I bought one. Didn’t come with install instructions, doesn’t look too hard to figure out. it has one lamp, that connects to an under PF flasher or lamp.
My question- what is the best lamp or flasher to tie into for this one? Thanks in advance!!
2440005B-B764-4BDC-8610-0E603ECBFF29 (resized).jpeg4B9C8E14-827D-487F-9ECB-53FB440762CF (resized).jpeg
Quoted from monkfe:Cliffy makes a nice mount for these, angled nicely
That's not what I inquired about. I asked about WHERE to connect it. It came with a perfect acrylic mounting plate, no need for the cliffy thing
1 week later
Quoted from Adipocere:I have Wonka and TZ side by side as well (of course, they're my only two games). I think they complement each other quite well.
They are two of my 4 game lineup and are not going anywhere ever. Keepers.
Quoted from PinballAir:Well tonight it got stuck and she "passed a stone" so to speak....
"LEGO" my damn ball!!!!
Quoted from damadczar:Anyone on here know where to get a new repro or NOS Twilight Zone speaker panel plexi screen?
Classic Arcades sells reproductions on Ebay for 100 bucks. I bought an Indiana Jones one from them when restoring, they are exact replicas.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I hope it was better than my Playboy pop caps from them. Those were total crap. The thickness was very inconsistent and looked awful when illuminated.
Well, I had the Original one and the repro, and could not tell the difference, except my original one had a melted hole in it from a soldering iron mishap, hence the need to replace it.
Quoted from atg1469:The Rottendog board was still working like a champ but I wanted a brighter clock face. So while the new one lit up beautiful, the damn time was never correct and I kept getting the dreaded "clock is broken" error
I had the exact same problem, but with the Ingo board. Rottendog works perfect, Ingo board says “clock is broken” messed with it for HOURS, never got it to work. now it’s a shelf decoration in my shop. I bought the white circuit board version.
1 month later
Everyone has different experiences. The upvote & downvote button is there for just that reason. It's not a "Bible" LOL. Reproduction translites and speaker panels are just what they are- imitations of the original, therefore they will never be the original. To expect that they would be is setting the bar too high, and setting yourself up for disappointment. IMO. If it's really that important to be exactly like the original, then hold out for an original to pop up somewhere.
8 months later
Quoted from Ashram56:Just a question: besides Ingo, there is no alternative clock board of good quality, am i right ?
Regards
I’ve had a Rottendog board in mine for 6 years- tons of plays, works flawlessly. My Ingo board arrived DOA (I have the white one) so it sits on a shelf as a $100.00 ornament
Quoted from Purdue:My TZ is coming back together after a thorough cleaning and some lighting updates.
Have any of you left the plastic lid off the back ramp? I’m thinking it looks way nicer without all that extra plastic.
[quoted image]
Don’t leave it off- it prevents air balls from trapping in the rear right corner
2 weeks later
Quoted from Tricyclejon:Is this real? A black and white Twilight Zone.
[quoted image]
100% real. Guy at Great American Pinball (GAP) outside of Chicago built it I believe.
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