(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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  • 15,208 posts
  • 946 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 33 hours ago by ottodawg
  • Topic is favorited by 501 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (5 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (3 years ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (2 years ago)

Post #11803 How to Add 3rd Magnet. Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #11810 Third Magnet Parts List Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #13048 Board replacement options. Posted by DumbAss (1 year ago)

Post #14049 Flipper cabinet opto board data Posted by DumbAss (10 months ago)

Post #14166 More key board data Posted by DumbAss (9 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7412 4 years ago

Just joined the club.

#7418 4 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Can someone take a picture of their power input connector that goes from the power in/aux/switch box to their transformer? Mine looks like it's been (poorly) worked on on the box end and only has 2 of the 9 pins populated. Is this connection supposed to have loopbacks for more surface contact?[quoted image][quoted image]

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#7431 4 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

It is possible to reboot my friend’s TZ when hitting both flippers at the same time, but oddly enough this only happens after you first turn it on. To me, it seems like a cap issue, but I don’t know which one.
After 2-3 minutes it is impossible to reboot in this way.
Any ideas?

I had this problem with a Road Show. For me it turned out to be a cracked solder joint on one of the flipper coil lugs. Reflowing the solder worked for me. Might be an easy thing for your friend to rule out.

#7433 4 years ago
Quoted from Barr993:

In the midst of my first under ramp cleaning, is this plastic supposed to be bent like this?
[quoted image]

Definitely bent for the reason that Coyote mentioned. Ball can get stuck.

#7439 4 years ago

Is the clock turned off in the featured adjustments area?

#7446 4 years ago

Contemplating a refresh on my TZ. Anyone have cabinet decals for sale? Full or partial set? Also looking for a speaker panel.

#7454 4 years ago

Still looking for lower right and left side cabinet decals..

#7462 4 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I haven’t seen this board in other twilight zone machines and just curious if somebody could tell me what it is used for?[quoted image]

Ya, it's a "piggy" board to provide the high power to the DMD when the high power fails on the DMD controller board. It's a plug and play fix....

#7464 4 years ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

LED question: should I be using actual red LEDs under the red inserts? I’ve tried both warm and cool white LEDs but both just give a sort of washed out look that doesn’t do the inserts justice. Thoughts?

I always color match my inserts but use white for my yellow and orange inserts. I’ve used white for reds, blues and greens before but like color matched better. I also use frosted domed LEDs but that’s personal preference

#7478 4 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Is the bigger square one not used?

My game only uses the small one near the ball gate.

1 week later
#7547 4 years ago
Quoted from Parker_tz:

On my twilight Zone I have a 3 slot coin door. The coin door mech closest to the lock gets stuck on the lock down reciviver yellow lever when the lever is flipped in the open position and you close the coin door. Is their any way to stop it from getting stuck because every time it happens I have to lift the playfield and fiddle the lock down reciver lever out of the coin slots. Is my coin door the wrong one does this happen to two slot coin doors? Is this normal on Williams WPC games?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

A 3 slot coin door on WPC games is common for European games or maybe not original to a domestic game. In order to avoid the issue, you need to get used to sliding the lever to the right when you remove the lock bar if you intend to close the coin door with lock bar off.

1 week later
#7584 4 years ago

I just replaced my original clock board set with an ingo board. The original boards are clean but the hour optos were not registering. I'll sell them cheap if anyone needs them.

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