Hi all, my slot machine stopped working a few days ago and I am in debug process now. I have a few questions for the collective:
1) When I measure the voltage at the input to the driver circuit it is 71V, while the manual's schematic say it should be 50V. Is this normal?
2) Does anyone have a "full" schematic of the driver board? The manual only shows an example for each solenoid driver. There is no information how to trace signals back from the power transistors (which I can find easily) to the IC driver and to the connector that goes to the controller.

Thanks very much for any advice!
Richard

Thanks for the link to the full schematics - that is just what I need.
Yes I have run diagnostics and all the solenoids fire except the slot machine so I am sure it is either in the driver or the solenoid itself. Tonight I will cross wire another driver to the slot solenoid to see if it activates and also cross wire the slot driver to a known working solenoid to check both parts. It is most likely a bad transistor but I want to make sure before I take the board out because there are a crap-load of connectors on that board. I am a high voltage power electronics EE so I will have no problem finding and replacing the bad component now that I have the full schematics.

Couldn't get the coils to fire by grounding the transistor tab - but I did check the driver by crossover method and it is fine. The wiring is also fine but the coil measures open so I have ordered a new one. That should do it for me. Thanks to all who offered good suggestions!
Best Regards,
Richard

This is a common problem. Many people install a magnet on the back of the diverter which helps to catch the steel balls (does not help on powerball - mine still bounces out 50% of the time).
I'd suggest to search this forum for "diverter magnet" - I am sure you can find pictures and other discussion.
Good luck
Richard

Anyone know how to best adjust the gumball diverter? My diverter gets stuck periodically behind the inner rail (red arrow) and I have to take the glass off, get a long screwdriver and pop it loose again. Does the diverter have play left-right in its mounting? I want to move it a little right (green arrow) so that the arm will always rest on the inner rail and not be able to go behind it.
Thanks for any advice!
Richard

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Thanks Lloyd - is it safe to bend the diverter pole from above the playfield with a screwdriver? Won't that stress the mechanism?

Nice. Thanks for that image of you dancing naked with a screwdriver
I'll give it a try (bending the diverter with screwdriver - not dancing naked)!
Richard

Does anyone know of a windows font that is close to the one used on TWILIGHT ZONE on the cabinet? I am making customized cupholders and want to use a similar font. I'll post pix when I complete the prototype. Thanks in advance!
Richard

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My clock motor driver board is kind of fried. Looks like capacitor leaked and took out the 7805 regulator. I will replace those tomorrow. Does anyone have the schematic for this board? It is not part of the 22 page WPC schematic that I have for TZ.
I am an EE so I like to know what the full schematic is when working on something.

Thanks in advance!

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Never mind. Just found the game specific schematics in section 3.

Williamston is home of one of my favorite breweries - Old Nation! Enjoy a pint for me

OK I bought the really cool time swirl shooter rod for TZ (40mm size). When I installed it I realize I need a new spring, the old one is too weak for the greater mass of the new one. Anyone comment on which spring they use? .33? .35? .46? Or should I just buy one of each and experiment?

Thanks for any advice.
Best Regards,
Richard

The brown spring is what was in there, works with a very low mass shooter. The swirling time shooter weighs twice as much and so even with full pullback the ball can't even make it up the ramp. I just looked at Marco and they have a spring assortment, one of each for like 6 bucks - so I am going to get that and try them until I find the one I like. Thanks!!

Richard

I just bought the same shooter rod - love it. I got the spring assortment from Marco and tried a few until I found one I liked. I have the Blue in now, but think I may want to go one softer - green I think. Springs are cheap - it was like $7 for a whole assortment.
Cheers!

My clock motor failed a few weeks ago and I traced it to a cap leaking on the motor control board - it also took out the 5V regulator chip on that board. Thanks for the heads up about the same caps being used elsewhere - I think I will order some caps and recap all the parts under the playfield.
What about motherboard(s) caps in the backbox? Anyone have to recap those?

Thanks!
Richard

Looks like you are an Ex-Detroiter- Go Red Wings!

Best Regards,
Richard

Definitely check coil mount to bottom of PF. Mine came loose 2 weeks ago. Like you describe, ball coming out weaker and weaker from the slot machine. One screw actually had fallen out and the other screw was loose. I had to repair the wooden holes (wood glue plus toothpicks), let it dry, then screw back the coil into the PF.
Good luck!