(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago



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#2534 3 years ago

I literally today just read about the pop bumpers. Lawlor confirmed that the flyer was correct. Further research apparently also confirmed this from a secondary source.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2684/Bally_1993_Twilight_Zone_Bumper_Caps_Order.pdf

1 month later
#2807 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Somewhat out of the blue, my game developed the dreaded reset. Started resetting when cold and when both flippers were pressed. Went through pinwiki and couldn't quite find the exact fix, but I think it's a bad br2/c5. I systematically and individually went through and unplugged j101, 102, 114 and the z connector, no change. Thought it might be the thermistor, but I swapped in a spare board I have that was repaired by John wart and the resets disappeared so far. The br was registering below 5 for resistance, which pinwiki suggests is too low so I think that's at least one issue. I don't have the proper tools to remove the rectifiers and capacitors (just a crappy solder sucker I use for transistors) nor much experience so off the board will go to John.
Seems like just a matter of time before we all start having reset issues.

Happened to my TAF recently....so far the TZ is intact.

That said, Rob Kahr has developed this unbelievable fix:
http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html

fixed our TAF reset issues, no sweat. For me, definitely better than repairing the board poorly, which is likely what I'd have done!

4 weeks later
#2945 3 years ago

Looking forward to trying this kickass mod in my TZ sample

#2980 3 years ago

I have been doing some work on my TZ and I noticed the backboard has a lot of little holes stamped into it - do all TZs have this? I never noticed this before. There's also a wire going into the bottom of the backboard but I can't figure out what that's for. Is this a stock thing or is this some mod that maybe doesn't work anymore?

#2982 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

The backboard should only have.. uh.. 7 or 8 holes. Two on each side for the brush brackets, and then three or four along the bottom to screw into the playfield.

I'll have to take a picture; they're not mounting holes, and I'm not actually sure if they're clear through. They sort of look like they were stamped in there.. Pretty weird, and there's WAY too many of them for it to have been an accident

#2986 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

It sounds like you probably have one of Tom's custom startfield backboards ...
http://home.myfairpoint.net/vze8f4tt/tomstwilightzonepinballmachineaccessories/id25.html

That's got to be it! ...Except mine doesn't light up. I'll have to figure that out. Thanks so much! I don't think I'd seen this mod before..

#2988 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Huh - First I've seen that before, too.

Will report back when I get it working... I know i've seen Tom's site before, but I must never have clicked this particular page. I've been meaning to look into EL wire to hook something up on my TAF so this is sort of good timing...

Also - I was in another thread and the OP mentioned something about certain early games going out with a *different* version of the translite art. This was *completely* news to me. Coyote - ever heard of this? I imagine the differences were only slight, but still...

#2994 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yeah - at first that's what I thought you were referring to. Some translights were made with the stars "cut out", small pinholes, around the logo. From previous discussions, I can't tell why or when - Ie. If it .was an early thing, or a specific manufacturer o over time, since some later game had it installed, and my NOS translight ordered later, does not.

Oh that's right - thanks, I guess I knew about the stars being cut out but didn't associate it with being a prototype - I was mistakenly thinking the art must have been different. Pretty cool to find out that ours has the cut outs! This game keeps getting g cooler and cooler

#3000 3 years ago

RAMEGOOM's clock mod:

I will post pictures once I get my TZ back together (in the middle of a tear down), but I installed this clock mod last night.

First of all - unbeknownst to me (thought I had an original), my clock had been replaced with a Rottendog board. While I am a huge advocate for RD's Fliptronics and power boards, and the clock mod does a great job fixing the flaws of the clock design.. it just never looked that good.

Well, now that's over. As pictured in the other posts, the light is very full and consistent - and a hell of a lot brighter than the original or RD solutions (full disclosure: I have not spent a lot of time with Ingo's board)

The instructions were far more detailed than is common, and CLEAR. I can't stress how big of a deal that is. Most mods you get a printout with a couple sentences and maybe one picture, but these were very well-written and clear.

The inclusion of the spacers and the extra C-washer were great nice touches that weren't necessary but are a hallmark of a well-thought through process.

If I sound like I'm gushing a bit, I am - Ramegoom also helped me out by sending me a part I needed to test this mod, IN ADDITION to the board itself. Totally worth it, I think - especially if you have put LEDs in the rest of the playfield.

1 week later
#3020 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Nice mod!! Compared to the other pins in my lineup, TZ seems to be lacking some pizazz. Those interactive lights are just the ticket!

I really like this too! I do wonder if the lights could be turned down a bit - it may be the video but they seem like they sort of overpower the other playfield lights. But man that is awesome Nonetheless!

I wish somebody could improve the Rod sound clips in the same way. They still sound atrocious to me. I wonder if Chris Granner still has the tapes? Hell I'll transfer them to digital myself!

#3028 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Im now in the TZ club! Picked one up yesterday and love it so far. Cabinet is beat up, but i'll deal with that at a later date- playfield and everything else is in great shape.
I have ordered the Flipper Fidelity Pinsound speaker kit, along with a PinSound board. Anyone running this that can chime in and let me know if its a huge different vs stock stuff? Hoping to be blown away by it.

Make sure you get the downloads for PinSound. The Chris Granner DCS mix is all I ever use any more. There are 4 total on the PinSound community boards - one's called HorrorShow which is pretty cool but is kind of messy if you get a really hot game going. Lots of reverb, etc. The DCS mix sounds GREAT. I wish we could find a better source for the Tim Kitzrow "Rod Serling" samples, as those sound really bad. But otherwise the music (IMO) is way better than the Golden Earring tune looping.. over... and over... and over.. and over!

Did you get the Stereo cable with the PinSound board? Those mixes also sound better in stereo. the FF upgrade is great, although I don't personally have it on my TZ along with the PinSound board. I'm sure you'll be blown away! let us know!

#3030 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Awesome!! I plan on using the Chris Granner DCS mix myself. I can't wait to try it out.. what an amazing pin TZ is.. been looking for a good one for over a year and finally found it.

I totally agree - my TZ sat for a few months this year while I was working on other pins, and while I finally finished installing the 3rd magnet opto and the 4 door flashers (what a huge difference, by the way!). Can't get enough. Now I want to go back to working on the PinSound stuff so I can dial in the sound better. It's good but I still have the stock speakers so I am looking to upgrade soon...

Got Lost in the Zone for the first time last night since finishing the 3rd magnet opto, and little did I know that the 3 balls would line up on the Spiral and come crashing down at once! it was awesome!

#3033 3 years ago

I gotta say... it really was a pain. Adding the magnet itself is super simple (especially if you have a sample game, like I have - playfield all drilled and opto bracket already installed). The hard part is adding the opto transmitter and receiver. I felt like I had to disassemble half the game to get it to work, and most of the instructions out there were for retro-fitting a production game - well, my wiring wasn't quite the same, so it took me a couple weeks to even power the game back on after I did some testing. Turns out all the research I did was good - I finally understand the wiring matrix now, too!

I would never *eeeever* (any Jericho fans? lol) install it in a production game. I just don't have the guts or the patience. That SAID... holy crap was it worth it!

Also, the *correct* wiring for the 4 flashers (see coyote and lyonsden's awesome TZ Sample thread) is really really cool, ultimately simpler, and IMO far more worth it.

#3034 3 years ago

I accidentally clicked on one of my bookmarked pages just now, and it was an old page describing the development of TZ. This quote jumped out:

"Another interesting piece of trivia is the initial rule set for MultiBall on Twilight Zone. Originally, the MultiBall had a roving jackpot shot. The jackpots were lit in order as: Piano, Camera, Dead End. (This explains why the Camera has a "Jackpot" label in the flyer.) The Lock shot would relight jackpot after the third one was collected on the Dead End. The consensus of the design team, and others at Williams who played that version of the rules, was that jackpots were awfully difficult to make, and that MultiBall was pretty frustrating as a result."

OBVIOUSLY later games did not agree with this sentiment! I find TZ's jackpot to be much easier than a lot of other games.

3 weeks later
#3100 3 years ago

This is a badass upgrade, looks great

1 week later
#3130 3 years ago

Here's a pic of my topper
Not part of the pin I know but it's from my wife's favorite episode

IMG_1330 (resized).JPG

IMG_1331 (resized).JPG

#3133 3 years ago

Those are the only ones I've ever seen for sale. I seem to remember somebody posting a couple of ideas for alternatives but not sure if they made it for sale.

1 week later
#3149 3 years ago

I'm not at home right now to check, but can't you get at that bulb from under the play field?

2 weeks later
#3214 3 years ago

Throw it in a tumbler with walnut material if you're sure it's designed that way with the marbling; same effect as the comet with a lot less work!

1 week later
#3237 3 years ago

Replacing bulbs with LEDs is probably the best plan as far as learning - just know that most of the time the LED bulbs have to be inserted in only one direction - if one doesnt work, take it out and rotate it around.

A lot of folks seem to prefer frosted - i think that's the standard approach for a bulb which is visible above plastics - for those underneath inserts or playfield plastics you can do clear ones. Experiment!

TZ looks really good with LEDs, although you may wish to keep some of the flashers as incandescent - sometimes they can be pretty blinding

#3264 3 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Yes I found the opto board. It is a new replacement and has the pins for the 3rd magnet. I think the magnet is wired up as I see wires coming from it. I just need to track it down now. Easier said than done. I will give it a try this weekend.

Do the 1-board opto boards have room for additional optos?

#3283 2 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Do you have any suggestions on a retailer for LEDs? I would like to start adding some to my TZ. I am going to start with the inserts I guess. Likely all white bulbs with the covers on them.
Thanks

People swear on the Comet LEDs - I have a lot of games that need work so I tend to order tons from PBL and have yet to have a problem. Comet has tons more selection when you really want to get crazy, LEDs you can position in any direction, different configurations, and more warm LEDs which offer the benefit of the new tech but have more of the warmth of incandescents

#3285 2 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Excellent. Thanks very much. I love this forum. The info I get on here is wonderful. I have a Pinball Life order in the making so it is perfect timing.
Do you think it is good to just use white under all the inserts?. I figure I want to make it easy since this is my first time adding LEDs to a game. I am trying to keep it simple.

In general, yes - however you may find that some inserts look washed out if you go too bright. You can get those bulbs with 3 LEDs or one big fat one, or the ones you can position... It's a bit overwhelming at first. I basically just put white in everything first then try other colors out in places where it might make a difference. Sometimes it works, sometimes not.

My PF is a sample, and so I have the green lock insert - which basically is too dark to really see well. I added a super bright there which really makes the green "pop". If the insert was red, a super bright bulb would look orange-ish which isn't so great.

One other thing - you can overdo it with the colors but sometimes it looks great - I added a lot of purple to the back of my old TAF and it just looked amazing. YMMV.

best course imo is to get mostly white but get a few bags of 10 or so colors so you can experiment.

#3287 2 years ago

Also I find that I have to bend the wires on the bulbs to 45 degree angles quite frequently so they make better contact. At first I thought I was getting bad bulbs, but I have not in actuality had a single bad bulb yet.

Also remember that LEDs must be turned one direction only, so if one doesn't work ensure its making contact (as above) and then try removing it then rotating it and replace it in the socket. Incandescents don't care which direction the power is flowing but LEDs do. Get the inserts set, the some different LED styles in the Gen illumination, PRN

#3296 2 years ago

Both Comet and PBL do a reasonable good job of explaining what you might use where - e.g. Frosted vs concave vs flat lenses. There are so many options I gave up for a while and then went slowly as it wasn't fun to have this deluge of items to sort through. Of course, I was doing the taxes for our company at the time, so I was already feeling that way

1 week later
#3334 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

I saw one online years ago like this with fiber optic lighting. Was really cool, but I would never have the patience to do that. If I did, I'd probably put it in STTNG instead of TZ.
So do no cool TZ *attainable* backboards exist?

I have this one - and sadly it was done with EL wire, and looked amazing at first, but lately you can't even tell it's on. Fiber optic would have been much better, but live and learn I suppose!

#3337 2 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Ok, I know it will sound like blasphemy, anyway: is there some alternative version for the translite? I know the original is packed with amazing references to the tv episodes, and I love it a lot. Anyway It still looks a bit on the cartoonish side, unlike the tv series. I would love a graphic similar to the original tv series, maybe even in b&w. More adult, deep, scary.
What do you think?

The only one I've ever seen is the actual Black and white translite done for that black & white TZ game , which looked A-mazing

TZ has my favourite translite I think. At least until iron maiden is made!

#3348 2 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I was browsing for sale games, came across this TOM and in the background of this photo I saw what looks like the B&W TZ that someone was working on a while back. Maybe he has a B&W translite? Its Great American Pinball.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-theatre-of-magic-10
EDIT: It's picture 5 of 9

Yup, that's the one and (as far as I know) only

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-and-white-tz-coming-soon/page/4

I never thought it would look so cool but man there is a reason the show holds up (the writing!) but the look is just phenomenal

#3360 2 years ago
Quoted from onemoresean:

I installed the white clock board and used the warm white LEDs.

I see you have the IGT topper. Damn you! Lol looks awesome

#3368 2 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

My freshly restored TZ with black powercoating, courtesy of Pat / BR80 here on Pinside. He's going to post the entire restore process on a different thread, long story short- it came out amazing!!! Love the black look.

Wow, that looks amazing! What sort of work was done on the legs and rails?

Also, what's the story with the carpet you have?

#3370 2 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

Nice retro arcade carpet

Sorry, I meant where did you buy it

#3373 2 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Also, i'd like to point out in that pic TZ is sitting next to a Jim McCune cab and HEP playfield restored MB. It would be hard to tell the difference between the restores of them and Pat/BR80's restore of my TZ unless you really broke out the magnifying glass and critiqued every detail.

OUT. Standing. I hope my MB looks every bit as good once I'm done with it (um...) but you've given me some great ideas~!

2 weeks later
#3445 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Got my TZ today!!! I'm officially in the club!
Only issue now is that in order to get to 6.5 degrees on the slant, I have to screw the front casters at the way in (lowest point) and raise the read casters all the way up (highest point) and still I'm at like 6.3 degress!
I don't like the way it feel, because the casters are raised so high, that there is a wobble to it.
Is there something wrong with my floors? The previous owner had it set about half way in the back, and quarter way in the front to get 6.5 degrees.
On my MMr, the back legs and front legs are screwed all the way in (lowest point) and that comes in at about 7 degrees, which I like for that game.
HELP!

This happened to me when I got mine - turns out the wrong legs were installed AND they were in the wrong holes. Check your leg length and make sure you have proper length B/W legs and that they are in the right cab holes. Good luck, enjoy the best pin ever!

#3450 2 years ago

Yep, 3 holes all around...

#3479 2 years ago

Mine is a sample, and also has 3 holes cut. I had the legs installed in the wrong legs initially and could never get the pitch right. I think this is my only game that still has the legs it came (to me) with. Standard w/bs.

You should be able to get fairly close by adjusting which holes you're installing in, but you'll have to test to see!

#3502 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

On another subject, does anyone know where to get replacements for the bulb condoms, like the red one on the gumball ramp sign?

PBL sells them

#3544 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

What the trick to keeping the ball from coming out of the bumpers and going straight down the left outlane?
It's brutal! I'll be having a pretty good game, and then I end up in the bumpers and have what feels like zero control over what happens from there.
Love the game, but I'm not sure about those bumpers.

Don't let the ball go to the bumpers seriously.

#3579 2 years ago

Sigh... just realised the outlanes can be adjusted...

#3594 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Question on the right orbit: If you do not use the left flipper as the ball exits, should it be a clean return back to the bottom of the playfield? Currently on mine it will hit the mini playfield leveling post and bounce over towars the slot machine area.

When I hit a ball into the right orbit, if I don't use the top left flipper, the ball rockets SDTM

#3646 2 years ago

Good lord Coyote, have you ever thought about writing a book? There's such an awesome story in this machine

#3664 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Trust me, I don't want to sell it but at this point in time, It's a move I must make. I got other stuff going on at the moment. Just sold my BSD and my 2017 modded Metallica is next
BSD has given me some room to do a Sell + Trade for TAF. TZ is about the only machine I would do that for. I plan on keeping my all time favorite Indiana Jones tho. I played some TAF today and that thing plays amazing! So you like TAF better that TZ?

Wow man I was going to offer to trade for my sample TZ, which has the prototype playfield, 3rd magnet installed (with optos), correctly wired door flashers, EL wire star field back board, plus every mod available.... then I saw your price for the TAF! Holy Shniekies!

#3675 2 years ago
Quoted from hockeymag8:

Hi guys - my Enter/Begin Test button just stopped working (far right). Other 3 work. I pulled the bracket and checked the red and black wires and they are tight. It worked up until now with no issues.
Any suggestions what else to check or do these just go bad and need replacement? Thank you!

This happened to me when I got my project doctor who. Make sure that piece of wire which handles the ground is tight too, the solder can separate. Your buttons may also just be dirty.. jam it up and down a whole bunch and wiggle it around and see if you can get contact. I had to hold mine down and wiggle it back and forth, side to side and it would eventually connect

#3677 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Looks like it's level.
However, with the power off, the ball does not seem to stick to the magnet. On the spiral ramp, the ball looks to hold a little bit just above the magnet (not directly on it).
The magnet itself has some wear on it, and has some black scuffs.
Also, I'm not sure if the magnet on the right ramp is working or not, but sometimes when the ball auto-launces, it will not make the full orbit around to come out where the spiral is.
Any ideas?

...With the power off, the ball should NOT stick to the magnet. It's an electro-magnet, not a rare Earth magnet. That means it needs power to work Think about it - if it just grabbed the ball all the time, how could you ever get the ball past it?

You need to take the glass off, power the game on, put it in test mode and turn the magnet on - THEN see if it sticks

#3684 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Makes total sense. Will try it out tonight.
If I do need a replacement, or just want to replace and have new magnets in there, do I just need these:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1837

Yes if it's the magnet that's burned out - but I think you should be able to see it physically burned. You might want to test the corresponding optos too, in order to make sure they are turning the magnet on and offf at the appropriate times.

#3688 2 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Quick question for Ingo clock board peeps- Does the clock HAVE to be at 12:00 to do a board swap from, say a rottendog board?
Or can it be at whatever time, and as long as you know what it was and re-assemble back to that.
I tried to install it over the weekend and it would not work. I did NOT zero it out to 12:00 though.

I believe it can be done at whatever time, as long as you reassemble it exactly where it was. The clock does a self check on startup. But it's never 100% perfect - how "off" was it?

#3691 2 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

The clock started it's self diagnostic on boot up and during the initial forward advance, it just stopped and froze, then peddled the press enter for test report deal. Game has zero credit dot, so I know it was clock broke error. It's the same thing it did to me when I got the game when the original optos on the front (minute hand) were flaking out. It's almost as if the front optos on the new board were not working/registering. I studied it and it looked as if the minute hand WAS breaking the opto planes, so I'm at a loss. I did NOT go into clock test and run that, I turned it off immediately for fear of frying something.
EDIT: after the Ingo clock board failed to work, I replaced it with my working board and it worked fine again.

Interesting. I'd ask Ingo if there's anything you need to look out for. I find it hard to believe the board is bad but maybe the optos aren't getting a good connection?

#3759 2 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

Neat little mod I did on the coin slots, let me know if you want the artwork I'll post it then

I like those! Mine say "tokens" but it would be fun to replace them...

#3786 2 years ago

I am away from my game right now but I've always suspected my front art is a decal, placed on top of the original screened art. What might be the best way to remove it without damaging the screened stuff underneath? Assuming I can verify that there is indeed a decal at all

#3828 2 years ago

Just to jump in here on the decal, screen print debate: I have a sample game made in (I think) March or April of 1993. It is definitely a sample - I have a confirmed sample playfield, white door behind Rod, etc.

My game is also wrinkled around the legs, and while I suspect the front might have a decal, the sides are most definitely original. There is a tiny bit of fade and you can tell the side rails have never been removed. So those sides have a bit of wrinkling - the white vinyl underpayment makes a lot of sense. I was always confused and a bit worried about how a there could be wrinkling if it was screen printed.

#3868 2 years ago

Folks, I am slightly considering putting up my sample TZ (with sample PF, star-cut translite, original screenprinted cab, etc) for sale in order to pare down my collection. Would it be appropriate to ask for a price check here, or better to start a new thread? Thx

#3879 2 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

I think you'll get better results from a new thread.

You know in hindsight it's a stupid question - you guys should be trying to talk me out if it!!

#3885 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

If you sell your sample, it will be very difficult to find another if you want one back.

I know.... I know... :/

#3930 2 years ago

TZ is one of the few games I personally would not put NVRAM into, because I like how the clock shows the correct time. NO other pin does that, to my knowledge.

CFTBL also plays different songs based on some algorithm calculated from the day of the week (I think?) and you have your midnight madness games . I seem to recall at least one Pin with a Christmas. But otherwise, adding NVRAM is set it and forget it. (I'm a fan of Pinitech's stuff because I met him and he's a great guy)

#3945 2 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

What is the consensus for replacement battery type to use for the three AA batteries (and not NVRAM chip )?

Those energiser industrial batteries are what I use, they're only a couple bucks more than regular batteries

#3952 2 years ago
Quoted from waveman:

I've switched to the Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries. They are supposed to be leak free, so it's worth checking out.

Yes! Sorry these are the ones I meant

#3953 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

You guys are crazy. Lol batteries????? This is what you do. Take your game to show that Rob Anthony works at. $30 bucks done. Thanks for playing. Yes they have to be soldiered on. You need a adaptor. See photo. Boards are still a 150. If you ask me the cheapest why to know that board will last a longggggg time. Go ahead keep checking the batteries twice a year. Why? I dont like resetting stats and high scores. Lol. I dont rotate games out so it's worth it for me to do it

Ok you didn't read the previous posts about why TZ isn't a good game to add NVRAM to

#3967 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

I did. I don't care about the clock reading correct time when it's off. Lol. Do you really look at the clock for the time? I care more about the board did you read that? Sorry I guess I'm in the minority here. The thought of batteries just makes me cringe. I have seen so many destroyed boards. Some people don't even know pinball machines have batteries.

Well that definitely makes sense to take the worry out - crap, that reminds me I have to change my batteries

No, I don't look at the clock for the time (hell, it's usually slightly off even with batteries ) but I do like how its *supposed* to be correct.

#3992 2 years ago

I'm staying in the club! Talked it over with the family and my son (the biggest proponent of selling the TZ) has decided he wants to learn to play better so decided to learn on the TZ. I have to say I'm pretty happy not switching up, I go those big stretches without playing for a while, but every time I go back, I love the game even more.

That said: the mech that grabs the ball when it goes up the right ramp, to keep it from going to the MPF is dropping the ball occasionally. I haven't ever had an issue with it so I don't know how it works - is there a magnet in there or something?

#3997 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

If your game is apart, then fix it the right way and put a nut on the rear posts. Or, put the plastic spacers back, if you still have them.

What's the cause? Does the nut works its way off? (Not in front of my game)

#4004 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Oh, *Jeez*, I'm an idiot - apologies. I was talking about the lock cage, and after re-reading your post, I saw you were talking about the bridge diverter. Sorry. Ignore everything I said. Oops.

Ha! You should have Seen my face reading that

#4021 2 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

By "diverter thing", do you mean this thing? Do you mean that the ball bounces off this diverter but remains on the wire rails, or that the ball bounces off this diverter and falls off the wire rails?

For me, it bounces off the diverted and falls off the wire rails, usually slamming down on the PF

1 week later
#4084 2 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

I just use Goo Gone or De-Solv-It if it's being stubborn. Try to keep it off the decals as much as possible, but I haven't had issues with it. Apply to a paper towel, dab on, wait, scrub, scrape, repeat as needed. The more you can have on there without running the better.
I use a plastic razor blade along with it for scraping (or a credit card).

Goo-gone will eventually damage the decal, so don't use a lot, and dont' let it drip, and DON'T put it on for too long. You do need to let it sit for a minute or two so it can break down the adhesive, but just gently work it with the credit card or the plastic blade, obviously don't use a metal blade

#4089 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

All good advice, I did all of the above, rubbed a few blisters on my fingers, but no big deal, no damage to the decals, the powder coat guy says he will blast the stuff off the rails.
I'm thinking I will do ink black and clear coat, anyone have any suggestions of flake or anything?

What's a couple fingers when you have a beautiful cab!!

#4090 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

So I'm finally in the club! Got it from a fellow pinsider. The game is in amazing shape and has lots of cool mods! Just got it off the truck today so I'll post more pics later. I would like to thank Coyote for guiding me through the process. He was very informative and helpful.

Glad you got your game man!! Coyote is THE MAN. Nobody knows more about TZ.

#4109 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Very nice! Been considering that as my playfield has a couple rough spots... but nothing severe enough to warrant the effort.
Do they sell the mini playfield sepetately?

I believe they do; you may even be able to buy a "sample" version which does not say "flip here".. but there are still ways to validate

#4111 2 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Quick question please? I have a Pinbits 3rd magnet opto. I think the opto might be bad. ( I took the ramp off and tested it.) I have emailed Pam at Pinbits a few times but no response. I was wondering if I could replace the Pinbits 3rd magnet opto with another brand? Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks guys.

An opto is an opto - you can replace them with anything from PBL or Marco as long as it fits (I think there are 2 different sizes)

Just test whether you need a transmitter or receiver so you don't have to replace both. Use the camera test on the transmitter and see if you get the dots on your camera/phone

#4114 2 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I don't think this applies to the Pinbits one for the 3rd magnet kit they sell. Their website says that their opto reciever is a special one that eliminates the need for the add-on board, this may mean it has firmware/logic on it or something, which would differentiate it from a standard opto reciever.
LitzDoc, definitely wait to hear back from Pinbits
Maybe some other TZ Pinhead could add to this?

I remember this kit - IIRC the special part of the kit is in the little cable with the driver in it; the optos are just the slightly taller ones since they don't have a proper guide to screw into (the factory 'sample' games had screw holes in the metal ball guides so you don't affix them directly to the playfield).

Anyway; up to you - hopefully one of the other TZ-ers on the site have the same kid - but if you buy a replacement opto it should cost you about $3 and the soldering time

#4120 2 years ago

I've had pins sit for 4 weeks but I'm surprised the board took that long! Customs is sloooooow though..

1 week later
#4216 2 years ago
Quoted from gblaz:

You should remove the balls from the ball trough anytime you raise the playfield and certainly if you are flipping the machine upright. Otherwise they will slam around the machine randomly when the playfield tips and could smash something (possibly even the playfield glass). You don't necessarily have to empty the gumball machine each time, but if you are really moving the machine around I would.
As to how, some roms have a setting under the Tests section that will empty all of the balls in the trough and the gumball machine. Otherwise, you can empty the trough easily by carefully flipping the lever mechanism under the apron. This will flip the balls into the shooter lane where you can grab them. You can then run the gumball machine test to empty it out one ball at a time.
Good luck!
- Gblaz

You SHOULD, but not everybody does. I stick a flipper rubber in the trough exit hole so the balls don't come out; if you put it in there vertically there's no chance they will move. you don't want to leave it like that obviously but it works for quick stuff

#4230 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Voice actor Mark Silverman played a spot on Rod Sterling for Disney's Tower of Terror ride. I wonder if he would ever be willing to record high quality versions of the callouts. I'd pitch in for that.
Unfortunately there would likely be some sort of licensing requirements that would make it impossible.

Rod's voice has to be licensed separately from the game, and as Mark is the officially recognized voice for Rod by the Serling Estate, He would certainly need something in place legally. he's a Tier 1 Voice of Disney so ... yeah it would be expensive.

Ive been working on some updates lately too but ended up having a lot of actual jobs lately so I have to prioritize my voice for those. I should be dry in June though so maybe soon

#4235 2 years ago
Quoted from canea:

Can you swap out music with Pinsound, or just call-outs? (Sorry, probably dumb question, but haven't ever thought about trying a pinsound). I would love TZ even more with some of the more atmospheric, minimalistic music from the shows.

Eeeeeverything that makes a sound can be changed. Music, callouts, sound effects. I am working on a complete Doctor Who revamp which replaces all the callouts with modern episode quotes, and some of the sound fx as well

#4244 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

I was on the fence about pinsound. For the $350 bucks I had better stuff to spend it on. Pinsound is still a new idea. I recently just bought my TZ and it was already installed with a flipper fidelity kit. They had a corny Chris granner pre dcs sound mix but after a while it got old. So I went on the pinsound forum and download a mix someone else posted. And wow incredible. It just took TZ from a awesome game to a bad ass game. The sound is crystal clear, stereo sound, full adjustable. I thinking about getting one for my last action hero. With real ac/dc tracks

Which mix are you referring to? There are 5 I think. Granner DCS mix, Original, Tim Kitzrow "remixed", Haunted House remix, and one other I can't think of right now

#4247 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

I had mentioned the Granner DCS (as a must have and one that I was using) but afterwards I went to increase the RS call-outs and realized that I had actually been using the TK remixed. It is the one with the cleaner guitar rifts and slap bass. So this is the library that I currently enjoy the most but plan on augmenting it. This being said my GF actually disliked the music at first but doesn't comment on it now.
Unfortunately all of the Tim Kitzrow RS call-outs, across all current libraries, are distorted. Almost all of these can't be lifted from the series as they are custom to the pin. So, who has the best RS impression here? Many would pitch in for sure. I could post something online looking for someone to do 'custom' voice over work

Working on it - will have samples in June

#4249 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

It didn't have a name. it was the last one i listen too. It says twilight zone 1993 zip by gerald. That's what it says on the website. It's great. I love all the new backround music. finally a beat to the music i don't mind listening to. You know some backround music just gets so damn annoying. also the voice overs on power ball and custom call outs through out the game are cool. add a color DMD. just takes a great game to the next level.

I will have to find that; I'm not sure I've heard that one.

#4251 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

i just went on the forum. it's still there. download it. convert it, and enjoy. i think you will like it.

Found it! checking it out...

I really wish the PinSound guys would post more about the shaker... I want to put one in my Doctor Who! ... and Monster bash!

Okk... so I downloaded the "gerald" mix.. and - this is the original music for the game! Have I been rickrolled?

#4254 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

It shouldn't be the orignal. The original is corny. ???? I don't know.It starts with a killer bass line. Are you sure you got the correct one? Tell me more about a shaker for pinsound? Dr who? I love my Dr who

Pretty sure, man - the bassline is from the song "Twilight Zone" by Golden Earring which is on the original table.

So the PinSound board has code to connect up and operate a shaker motor, but the designers haven't officially released how to actually connect it - there are pins to connect already on the pinsound board, but you need a relay (I think). Somebody did connect one and did a couple posts about it, but it's too complicated for general use just yet.

I believe they are working on a product so you can buy a shaker from them which just connects to the board directly, and then you can program it with a simple text file. Hopefully it will be around the $100 price point like their speakers, which are very high quality.

#4267 2 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Definitely looking forward to checking out what you come up with callout wise.

Yep, I am rolling off my 2 May jobs in the next couple days (well, actually next week after packaging and invoicing) then I should be able to try a couple things in the 2nd week of June. I don't have anything starting up yet until end of the month; I'm going to see Iron Maiden this weekend so those days are out!

#4281 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Indeed, this will be very interesting!
I suppose that the challenge now is that with a PS we can rework all of the original RS based call-outs and add whatever else we'd like. Rob, will you be doing the voice over work yourself?

Yes, sir that is my job

To clarify (not sure if this is what you meant), but for clarity: none of the callouts in the game were Rod Serling. All were performed by Tim Kitzrow, who did a great job. My voice isn't exactly like Rod's but my impression is good enough to 'get by'. Mostly I do narration and animated work but this is too fun to let pass by. Caveat emptor

#4282 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

The speaker wires on my machine were monkeyed with. Does anyone know if. The 2 speakers for the back box are supposed to be wired in seires and the bottom speaker is wired in parallel?
I am having sound issues.

Yes, that's standard WPC wiring. Stupid design, but that's how they did it.

#4288 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Awesome! Yes let's say that I have been reaching out to see if 'anyone' would be interested but just crickets at this point. Understandably so but a response would have been appreciated
Are we faced with any challenges here for doing voice work 'in the style' of someone else or saying things that were authored by someone else?

IANAL but my understanding is Rod Serling's likeness and actual voice recordings are licensable, but a sound-alike (voice actors are VERY familiar with this term!) is covered as a sort of "parody". I am not sure if PPS is going to come up with some sort of issue because of this type of recording, but they do not hold the license for Rod Serling -beyond what is depicted visually on the game - as far as I know. But again, not a lawyer

#4294 2 years ago
Quoted from Taxman:

Back to the Future changed Marty because Mike Fox would not sign on and Fester on Addams is a close but no cigar image. Very common to make enough difference in images to avoid when a star won't sign on to the overall theme. But you do need the license to the theme. Sound alike actors are on many pins like POTC. And even what versions of the songs on KISS saved money depending on if is was the original crew or whoever was in the band that year.

Good points, all -

#4299 2 years ago

Owners with third magnet installed:

I have had my magnet and optos installed for quite a while now - maybe a year? Anyway I haven't played a good game on the TZ in several months. Last night I fired it up and got multi ball, expecting the spiral to load, but

I got the standard shooter lane multiball... any ideas why?

The optos are tripping in test and the magnet works during 'spiral' mode. So what gives?

#4301 2 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Do you have the right rom chip in it? I'd imagine that since that feature was removed from the game extremely early on, that subsequent roms had that code removed or deactivated. If you do have the right rom in there, I think it's a setting in the menus that you have to change.
But I could be wrong.

Yeah I have the home ROM. It worked in the past, I don't think I've changed any settings - I haven't done a reset, batteries still working, etc.

#4303 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

The game Needs to know that the power ball is in the gumball machine. So, before it will catch, you have to have a game where you shoot the powerful into the gumball. You have to do this everytime you enter attract mode. (Power game on, or exit test mode.)
Then, you need to have LESS THAN two balls in the lock.

Damn! Forgot this rule, I know I've read that! Thanks coyote.

Oh! Crap I still owe you some sample study photos/investigation !

#4311 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Hit it Rich slot app... Does anyone know who's performing the callouts on this slot app? Incredibly similar....

That's Mark Silverman, but it sounds like he had to record that really fast (or they just chose those takes). video game sessions are brutal

#4313 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I wonder how much time would be required for a serious pro like Mr Silverman to crank out a good set of callouts, especially considering we could put together the originals for reference.
Is there an existing list?

There is - it takes about 5 minutes, there really aren't too many in Rod's voice.. lol
But Silverman is the Official voice actor for the Serling Estate... I think anything he does in the name of Serling has to be licensed. He's also a Voice of Disney, as he does Rod's voice in the Tower of Terror (that means $$$$).

Here's the callouts list:
http://hem.bredband.net/b257182/tzquotes.html

#4315 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

$$$$ might be doable if enough people wanted to get together and fund it.... $$$$$... probably not.

Haha.. I'm really not sure what his rate is, but I think the issue would be paying the lawyer to write up the contract with the Serling estate so that he'd be allowed to do it at all

#4317 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

I think that merccat has missed the previous thread about you taking this on this month, as time allows Let's forget the other guys on this

I did a test run yesterday, and my throat is a little scratchy from music rehearsal on Thursday, but I'll get back to work!

Let's not joke around though - Silverman is an amaaaaaaaazing dude, and his voice is a lot closer to Rod Serling's but we're gonna make this work

#4319 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0798944/bio?ref_=nm_ov_bio_sm
"Trivia (2)
In promoting his voice appearance as Rod Serling in A Paranormal: Still Life (2005), NBC said that he "is the only voice artist recognized by the Serling estate"."

That's what I've been saying, you got it

#4327 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Hey guys ill be looking at getting a TZ hopefully in the near future. How much does a nice HUO usually run? Is there a place where i can buy this topper?
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ah-Q2hNzf8U/maxresdefault.jpg

I've been looking for that topper for a year and a half... if you find one, let me know

It comes from an IGT Slot machine which is apparently very hard to find. I'd buy the whole machine if I could find one.

Price? I do not believe there are that many HOU floating around, never were. Not sure - 7-8k?

#4330 2 years ago
Quoted from gblaz:

Ok, so looking at that topper... as I understand it the gumball machine doesn't actually have anything to do with a Twilight Zone episode. If that topper is from a TZ themed slot machine, why do both the pinball and the slot machine have a gumball machine on them?

That's an excellent question - I do not know the answer! The gumball machine is not part of the plot of any episode, nor is it part of the title sequence of any of the 5 seasons of the show.

It was added by Pat Lawlor - my guess is they had an idea to do the gumball machine first, and worked it into the game. It kind of works in the curio shop theme of the translite.

#4332 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Depends on condition, and if you can find a deal.
Boston Pinball tracks Ebay sales. In the last year, seven sold on Ebay for an average of $7839 each. That is similar to retail price.
The Pinside price listed is $5550 - $6450. I consider that a good reference price for one in good condition when buying from a private seller.

Do you consider those accurate for a HUO game? I was thinking significantly higher due to the relative rarity

#4335 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

HUO means very, very little. If they never touched it - never cleaned it, never changed balls out or cleaned rubbers, then I'd price it below a non-HUO game in better condition.
It's the condition of the game, not necessarily it's ownership.

Well that's a good point - I guess I was interpreting "HUO" as 'very well maintained, very good condition' - but you're right, in and of itself, it doesn't mean much

#4338 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I did a test run yesterday, and my throat is a little scratchy from music rehearsal on Thursday, but I'll get back to work!
Let's not joke around though - Silverman is an amaaaaaaaazing dude, and his voice is a lot closer to Rod Serling's but we're gonna make this work

Quick update on this, I ran down to the studio yesterday and did some takes- came out pretty good . I need to edit, eq and normalize and incorporate into the game. I am not sure whether I'll add effects to the voice like it sounds like they did with Kitzlow. There's a little bit of reverb on there.

#4342 2 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Definitely interested to check this out as well.

All right just don't expect a miracle, but it will be an improvement !

#4344 2 years ago
Quoted from johninc:

I expect a miracle!

What the?!?

#4353 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Grab three #555 bulbs, glass ones - you know, the ones that make a neat little 'pop' sound when you throw them down on a hard floor? - and put them in there. Voila! Problem of the pinpoint LED light solved.

LOL

I like these too:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3069

#4359 2 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I see that, but the part linked doesnt have a slot in it, so I am just confused as to how that works.

It only fits into the right side of the button. Took me a minute to figure out too.

You may want to buy the whole push button thing too - your coin slot looks really chewed up

#4362 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The Sparky Pop Bumper Enhancement looks sweet, and you could probably make something similar with holographic glitter paper from the craft store. Would be a nice project for the kids.

Very true - st $2.95 which is (I think?) what they cost at PBL, it was worth the enjoyment of NOT getting out the scissors...

#4369 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Yeah, not a fan either, except with a few select games

Those LED "UFO"s look really good in a game like Doctor Who - looks like it belongs there, but in a game like TZ, it looks a bit much IMO. This is why I like the understated nordman thing - it fills the empty space of the pop and you can put a nice round LED in there and it looks "complete".

#4371 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

As a Pinball And slot machine collector if you are looking for a Slot machine accessory like this you need to shop on the Slot machine forum not the pinball forum. I see these listed all the time on the NewLifeGames forum classified section or you PM some of the many parts brokers on that site. Like pinball, if you want a slot machine part (or topper) you need to shop in their playground to find it and get the best price. Very cool TZ topper BTW. Hope this helps, good luck.

Where is "the slot machine forum"? Is there a Pinside for slot machines?

#4373 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

As I noted in my text, the forum is called NewLifeGames.com

I thanks - I will have to learn to search better on there, when I searched for "IGT twilight zone" Just now, it only came u with one WTB post from 2015...

#4375 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Yep, that site makes me really appreciate all the hard work Robin puts into Pinside

ABSOLUTELY agree

#4397 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Honestly, that guy needs to learn a few things.
If he's going to solder in those flexible LED lights, AND design a board to hold them, then just make your PCB hodl the LEDs directly, instead of having to solder a flexLED flex strip to your PCB. Oy!

lol. I have one of those clock boards, and I have to say it really works well; lights things up perfectly, and when the lights cycle it looks very smooth.

#4402 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Okay, very quick summary time again, since I'm on my phone.
9.4ch will work fine in a real game. It's a hacked version, and the reason we don't have a 9.5h today. You can use it, but I'll have no respect for you.
You can turn off the free play message in Feature Adjustments. It will act normal - displaying how many credits are on the game, with the exception that you can still start a game with 'CREDITS 0' displayed. As you insert coins, it will keep track, and subtract as you start games.
Apparently the link to my manual addendum isn't working anymore. When I get home tonight, I'll post a PDF here for everyone.
It has all the menu changes between 9.4H and the printed manual, with descriptions.

Don't use 9.4ch!!! Ted would be sad

#4408 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

The brightness of theses pop up bumpers is great. However, because they dont fit tight in the cap. I had on one wire for the lite ring break. They jiggle around in cap. Might glue them to the inside of cap. So, I like the look great, just not sure they will stand the test of time.

The instructions do say that you're supposed to glue them in - I too have had a wire on one of mine get cut when I wasn't careful to get the wire in the little depression under the cap. Luckily I noticed before I did it to the others.

#4411 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yeah. I apologize.. it's a little bit of a hot-topic for me. Mainly because as I was testing 9.4H for Ted, emails were going back and forth about small things to add or fix for 9.4 and 9.5H.
For me, it's not necessarily the actual hacking - crap, I have hacked CV and SC myself to change some audio around - but it's the fact it was released and pissed Ted off.

How do you hack the roms like that? I always wondered what was in 9.5; did you ever write that up?

#4422 2 years ago

That black armor looks *amazing*

#4435 2 years ago

dang, finally finishing a draft of my callouts. as usual, took way longer than I thought Will post tonight, most likely.

#4445 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Those plasma pop up bumper lights are amazing. Its a tighter cap.
However, that would be incredible on Monster Bash.
I would want them.

Clearance may be a problem on MB, the ramps are RIGHT on top of the caps, plasma need a little clearance. Have to measure to be sure

#4452 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

OK. I'll clean those out tonight and report back. I don't think I blew anything, I hope not at least, because the rest of the game functions correctly. And what about the 9.2ROM? I had the 9.4CH ROM ordered (it's going on route) but based off of your comments about Ted, I called them and asked for the 9.2 ROM.

You're better off with 9.2 if it's going on route; 9.4 is for home use only, and def not for going on location.

#4454 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

That's what I thought! I know someone hacked 9.4H to make it pay-to-play, but that it was against Ted's wishes and may have introduced other bugs in doing so, so I thought to play it safe and use the latest official release.

Very cool of you. 9.4h has some really cool adjustments but you'd never really notice playing on location, so nothing lost IMO (except Coyote's bugfixes)

#4472 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

There's a lot of litlle tricks and tips in the Club OCD thread. But off-hand, the ramp works a LOT better for ghosting bulbs (non-non-ghosting bulbs?), and each 'make' or 'manufacturer' of LED may need adjustment, since they may handle the ramps differently. However, out of the box, you should see a huge difference.
Edit to add - this goes same for the GI OCD. I have both in my game.

Oh my god, you just need to stop. Every time I read this thread there is more stuff I want to buy!! Lol

#4476 2 years ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

I only use LEDs in a few spots currently because I LOVE the incandescent ramp and hate the LED ramp. I thought LedOCD just helped with fading effects on LEDs... My God, this changes everything.
I did purchase one game from another collector that was fully decked out in LEDs... while I am not a fan I am also not gonna rip them out, so they are still in there. Guess I know what pinball toy I am buying next.

No, LEDs are good from a performance/maintenance perspective. LEDOCD perfects your game - the best mix of low maintenance and modern tech. Plus since you can program it to however you wait it gives you the best of all worlds. This plus Lyonsden's pinduino is like magic.

#4479 2 years ago

I've read that thread 10 times before and I still find new points Ted makes in that first post. Did he ever reply to all the questions?

1 week later
#4496 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

A friend 3-d printed one of these Spiral Arrows for me. After installing it I think that it's the best option for the "missing" spiral plastics. Yeah I know it's not the original design but it looks great! It slips over the Spiral bulb and lights it up perfectly. It really stands out when lit. It's not as bright as it seems in the picture though. I highly recommend this. Great job hanst!

That's not bad! Wow. Cool idea. Somehow you've got to get 'Collect spiral w/ Lit' printed on it

#4501 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Not me, but I looked on EBay to check AlexSmendes comment and found this:
ebay.com link » Twilight Zone Pinball Left Spiral Arrow Flipper Pinball Mod

Looks like the retrotienda guy in espana is way ahead of us! He has some amazingly high quality mods, like the uncle Fester and TZ Piano mods.

#4504 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Just getting back to check how things went, assuming you've been able to find more time for this.
Reverb wouldn't be necessary if it means more of your time. We could always add it later from the audio files

Still working it - I did a run through but wasn't happy with the result - I have tried several combinations with mic placement and how much room ambience to use. Have not found the magic combination. This is a little harder than I thought because I'm trying to match against audio recorded on very old technology in a different sized room. Granted I don't have to match the tv show as much as the pin but that was my intention.

there's also some volume issues that are present in the Chris Granner DCS sound files I use - the music and whatnot. They are too quiet so have to be normalized or adjusted in the config file.

Anyway so I just have to get back to it and do another round. Either way I'll release what I do next as a "draft" version

#4513 2 years ago
Quoted from johninc:

Looking forward to this, thanks for sharing!

Have time this weekend finally! The first draft I did sounds a bit too much like "me" - I am trying to find a good balance between the room size and the mics used in the CBS studios back in the day - but I need to mix it properly for the machine so you can hear it well over the music. It's more complex than just turning up the volume.

I was going to do some more recording yesterday but I blew out my voice rehearsing (I'm in a band and we are doing a bunch of Queen songs this month.. omg.)

Thanks for being patient - I'll have something shortly! Does anyone have a definitive list of the callouts? I keep finding new ones I didn't realize we're in there

#4517 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

You know, thinking about it..
Some 'Scary Door' (aka Futurama's take on TZ) would be hilarious.

That would be really funny, sort of fits with the Doctor Who updates I've been doing (posted an example in that thread), although that's just with clips from the show

#4520 2 years ago
Quoted from No_Skill:

I believe those are slightly heavier than the originals.

Lighter, you mean

#4522 2 years ago
Quoted from No_Skill:

I think I've read about them both ways (59g and 65g), but could be wrong. The original should be about 63 grams right?

Oh yeah? I had only heard they were 0.02kg lighter. Hard not to feel like we're nit picking! But that small difference could change the feel of the ball

#4524 2 years ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

.02 kg is 20 g and if the OEM ball is in the neighborhood of 60 g that is a HUGE difference.

Sorry, typo - they are from 0-4 grams different in weight

#4525 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Have time this weekend finally! The first draft I did sounds a bit too much like "me" - I am trying to find a good balance between the room size and the mics used in the CBS studios back in the day - but I need to mix it properly for the machine so you can hear it well over the music. It's more complex than just turning up the volume.
I was going to do some more recording yesterday but I blew out my voice rehearsing (I'm in a band and we are doing a bunch of Queen songs this month.. omg.)
Thanks for being patient - I'll have something shortly! Does anyone have a definitive list of the callouts? I keep finding new ones I didn't realize we're in there

Progress made! I also successfully increased the volume on the Granner mix so I will be using that as my baseline

#4529 2 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

For your clock: If you are looking for the brightest, most evenly lighted system available in the US:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4537

I have one of these; it is definitely very evenly lit, extremely low risk of burnout due to the LEDs

#4542 2 years ago

He goes offline for a little while every so often- don't worry, you won't regret the wait!

1 week later
#4592 2 years ago

Damn, that is a really good price! no 'buy it now' i see. wonder how much it will go for? Good lord, replace the legs...

#4594 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

I guess the question is how much does being a sample add to the value of a TZ (to the right buyer), if anything. Any guess on how much a main production version would go for in similar condition?

This is a steal for either - but IMO the sample is worth more to someone who is really into this game. There's VERY few compared to the main run. And the differences are big enough to make it a desirable pin to a collector who knows what they are getting.

Consider if Coyote had only read about the sample TZ all these years, and found his chance to buy one

#4595 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Are you two meaning me explain how it's ''wired incorrectly''?
I'm going to assume that's what you mean, so -
Their board is wired so that when the top right flasher is on, the lower left is also. And it's wired so that the top left is on, the lower right is (criss-cross). This is not how proto/early samples/the flashers were supposed to light.
The lower left door panel flasher is wired with solenoid/flasher #17, the Pop Bumpers. The lower right was connected to flasher #37, the Upper Right flipper flasher.
You know, I thought I had a video.. and I do! Quick one with me tossing the ball around for various light effects:
» YouTube video
Edit to add: My source for this is the printed proto TZ manual, which actually has these flashers still listed there..

This is how I wired my sample game, after seeing the detailed posts describing it all.

I really wish there was a way to get the 3rd magnet spiral multiball to work -every- time, instead of having to shoot a powerball every time I turn the game on. I tried to demo the 3rd magnet the other day, forgetting about the powerball stipulation. Kinda looked dumb saying "it's supposed to work...?"

#4605 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I think alexsmendes is going to help me out - but looking for the left Spira sign made, so I can have it on display at York in my game.

Wasn't there a thread about this? Somebody needed to make a bracket for it but I remember seeing the plastic

Damn. We are definitely coming to York then!

#4613 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Interesting. Never saw that there before. Wondering when it was added to their collection, and wondering if they took the art (with the proper font) from the other Pinside thread here. There HAVE been copied floating around, but the font was horribly wrong and didn't match anything.

No - that's not the right mounting, but it's a LOT closer than the 'flipperwinkel.nl' site above. The metal bracket was L-shaped, equal to the width of the plastic sign. It was mounted so that one side of the bracket was against the top of the powerfield, and the metal then made a right turn DOWN (against the bare wood of the back of the powerfield). The sign was riveted to this back side of the metal. Then there were two screws (normal hex bolts like what currently holds down the left spiral light and all other metal guides) holding it down.
While I don't have my metal bracket anymore (likely went the way of the sign), I believe it was about .5" x .5"..

That plastic doesn't look long enough either / maybe it's the lens but the photo doesn't look quite right

#4619 2 years ago

Has anyone played the Pinball Arcade version of the TZ ? I played it last night, and it is MUCH faster than my game. I have to assume that means my game isn't set up fast enough; but I wanted to hear what others thought about the pinball arcade version.

#4623 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

IMO, I think pinball arcade in general has terrible physics, I bought almost every table and eventually stopped playing it. Most of the shots feel programmed, i.e. I can hit the heartbeat ramp on bop consistently over and over in p.a.... on my real bop I can't do that perfectly.

I agree, but my question was more about the general feel of the table; I've not played a lot of other TZ's and I'm noticing mine needs some repair work, I want to shop it thoroughly this winter. If I need to get it set up differently I'd like to do that as well

#4625 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

That sample game went for $6300 (+$300 shipping).

W. T. F.

#4628 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

I felt it was a good/fair price for the condition of the game (not necessarily a great deal). Was it someone here who got it?

Was the game in rough shape? I didn't look at it that closely I guess

#4637 2 years ago
Quoted from Bronty:

Quick snap from yesterday when I dragged this sucker into the basement
http://i.imgur.com/YKQAYbq.jpg

My original lineup!

#4662 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Does anyone have an extra (or not), TZ flyer and would be willing to part way with? I want one for myself!

Alex, here's one from Ebay -

ebay.com link » Bally Twilight Zone Factory Original Nos Pinball Flyer

#4664 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Thanks, but that's the thing with ebay... when the seller does not ship to Brazil (the case with this specific one), the ebay global shipping program costs an arm and a leg...

That sucks! Let me look up how much to ship to you from here -

Alex, PM me your postal code, I will try to figure out how to ship one to you

#4669 2 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Decal. Without a doubt. My cab was faded just like yours.....

That's interesting - you say the bottom photo is AFTER the decals, right? that's pretty much what my game looks like, which I thought was really faded. Maybe I am wrong

#4672 2 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

There were some sets that PPS made a bit ago that didn't have enough yellow in the mix. Which means that the reds would be lighter and the black not as deep. That might be one of those sets as that's kinda what it looks like.

Check. Man that sucks! Not to go off on a tangent but what's the point of paying the huge prices if there's no QC?

#4682 2 years ago

Eric, can you post a pic of just the bracket with dimensions? Or a drawing even, lol

#4688 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

No, it doesn't risk snapping. I used thin (forget the thickness) Makrolon polycarbonate, which bends easily without snapping and returns to its normal shape (I used heat and vise grip to bend it into an L shape). The "L" shape provides additional strength and rigidity as a bracket (doesn't flop around while the game is being played). While I would be VERY surprised if it snapped from a ball hit, it is easy to replace.
The question I have is that the clear plastic is the way to go if you want to see the missing plastic (otherwise, it is mostly hidden behind the miniplayfield), but I can get a metal bracket made. I'm guessing that the metal bracket would be $15-$20 to get made IF I had 10 made (time on the water jet costs $150/h + labor). I may be able to find another place to laser cut them, but I'm not sure about ending. I could make it out of thin metal, and let people bend their own (which you may have to do to get the bend around the edge of the mini playfield.) Are there 10 people who want a metal bracket to keep the look based on the original design? Especially when the plastic version (in my opinion) is a better way to go?

that's a tough one - it's $50 or so to buy one of the crappier-looking replacement plastics (I have one of those with the spiral and the yellow arrow pointing down, and I've never had the heart to install it), and I think that's what we'd be all in for. The metal bracket would appear to me to be a *tiny* bit more "standard" for purposes of resale of the game. But I'm not selling mine

#4692 2 years ago

LOL... waiting for him to figure it out in 5...4...3...

#4694 2 years ago

So if I'm reading this right, you take the old cardboard thing off, remove it in full, and and replace it with this makrolon piece?

#4705 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I see now ... "Latest batch"
Well, I guess I'll join the club too if you're willing .
Let me know! Thanks man

Darn! I was hoping this was an LE!! hahah

#4726 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Question - Did all your playfields have the two sided rubber-like tape under the ramps? Redoing my PF and my game had this tape under the ramp entrances and not sure if someone added it later, or if that was factory.
Also, it seems factory from the manual, but the plastic that wraps around the right ramp and sits between the ramps.. it has a extra tall stand-off that raises the plastic up so it's not flat. Everyone's like that? I guess it's raised to stop ball traps? Trying to figure out why it's bent like that. Makes deciding if I want to use my NOS plastics more of a PITA

I have never seen that tape under a ramp flap, although I've never inspected an original untouched B/W game.

That plastic can break; may be worth using your original plastic there and keeping the NOS in reserve. Plus you don't need to re-bend it and risk it snapping. TZ is a dark enough nobody will ever be able to tell its an older plastic, just clean it up with Novus

#4730 2 years ago

In other news I took the mylar off my playfield recently, and the game got about 100 times faster! Really re-invigorated it for me. Of course, now it drains SDTM like a bastard! I can barely keep track of the PowerBall when it pops out.

#4731 2 years ago

So I'm having some new hardware powdercoated for my game - all gloss black. Does anyone have an opinion on powdercoating the wireforms for TZ? Should I do it / not bother? I understand the desire to keep the game 'stock' - I basically fall into that category already, but I figured it might be worth a look.

I've seen some amazing work on STTNG where the wireforms seem to disappear into the playfield because there's less light bouncing off of them. (too bad we can't use that photophobic black hole coating that completely removes all light).

#4738 2 years ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Was the entire playfield covered? Mine has mylar on the entire field and I want it off but am worried about the paint under the mylar.

Not literally the entire playfield, but basically -all the exposed areas from the slings to a bit before the diverter wireform.

There is some still near the pops I couldn't get off, but you can't see it anyway . I have to fix one door Insert where the decal pulled up a tiny bit where I guess I didnt freeze the adhesive enough. Just a little 1cm spot. Not sure if I will get water slide paper or just paint or what. It's noticeable but not distracting.

#4739 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

It's your game, do what makes you happy. I mean, who really keeps their TZ "stock"??

Yeah of course - I'm not looking to do anything crazy Is all. I should have asked if anybody is familiar with any damage that will be caused from the ball. I have to imagine the powder coat can chip off or wear down

#4745 2 years ago
Quoted from SilverballNut:

The powder coat should be fine on the rails. It's used on many games including the new spooky games.
I would imagine the only thing that might be visible is if you have a gloss powder coat you may get a dull spot right where the ball runs.

Thanks; makes sense. If I do the wireforms, I may do matte finish anyway, since my intention is to make them less noticeable by coating them in black. I have stock legs, lockdown, side rails, coin door, so I can always bring the game back to "official" stock mode, but this game just. looks. so. good. in black. Trying to decide whether or not to do my MB the same way. Chrome? But I sort of want to do that in some kind of steampunk theme

#4748 2 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Just check out http://www.highendpins.com. He's done a number of blacked-out TZs. They all look awesome. Some games look cool with black trim and stuff, TZ with the black side rails and lockdown bar looks like it should've come that way from the factory. He's also done some FULL black-out TZs that have all the wire forms and other bits in them blacked out. Peruse his photo gallery and be amazed!

Thanks - I think one of the HEp pins is what made me want to do this, but I never went to check out his site , thanks for the reminder!

#4750 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

.. So I'm doing last-minute prep of my game before the York show, and I'm just amazed at the things that crop up.
Since rebuilding, the game has a total of about 900 plays on it, in a year. Not bad. Nothing spectacular, but..
Anyways - come to find out that one flasher bulb is dead, one flasher socket is loose (and won't be able to fix that until after the game), sling rubbers are bad and need to be replaced, one metal guide was loose, magnet nuts were loose, lock kickout was loose, one 5Mil target was loose, and a host of other things I'm apparently forgetting now. But it just amazes me.. I didn't notice these things until I actually took the glass off and started fixing the small things I DID know about..

Absolutely know what you mean - I was just getting a game ready for another Pinsider and I opened up the game to switch out ONE thing, and ended up spending 5 hours on flaming rubbers, replacing bulbs and cleaning plastics, etc. Everything worked ok but needed a good once-over .. but I thought I'd already done everything!

#4753 2 years ago

I have an alternative "collect spiral w/LIT" sign for sale - it's the Pinball Decals one:
http://www.pinballdecals.com/TwilightZoneSprialSignPage.html

$40 + ship

#4757 2 years ago

Getting my TZ armor very soon - had it all powdercoated gloss black by Robert Stone in Marysville, OH. AMAZING WORK. I can not wait to get it on the game....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered/page/3#post-3962553

all the black stuff on that page (of which that link is the latest post) is going on the game.

Also trying out the Pinduino on this game. Cracking it open to do all this stuff has inspired me to fix some of the more annoying things about the game. #1 on the list is that the left speaker was replaced with a totally crappy 3" Data East speaker, and I had completely forgotten about that.

I still have the PinSound remix to get back to... haven't had time to mess with that, as my 'music time' has been taken up with band rehearsal as we start work on a whole new set (all Queen, all the time). I've grabbed a couple of music stings from the actual TV show and I am really psyched to get that in there. The actual show music is a lot 'spookier' than the game. I am hoping I can (some day) figure out a way to incorporate the season 1 (very different, atmospheric) music with Season 2 (the them everybody knows and loves). But first we get the game in good shape!

#4762 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Fingers crossed I sent my playfield out for mild restore and clear coat hoping to have an example worth to display with some of the awesome ones I seen on this post. I PRAY I can remember how to put this back together.......... And now with all of Rdoyle comments on black powder coat I am strongly thinking about borrowing his idea. That would look Great on this title. Starting to think Pinball might be similar to a car restore. A Never ending money drain. But fun.

Boy you hit the nail in the head there. Never-ending money drain. But fun!
Can I ask where you sent your playfield? I need to do that as well

I expect to get the powdercoat stuff pretty soon - i'd seen some great looking games in photos with that powdercoat, but saw a perfectly restored one with all black armor at another pinsider's house. STUNNING.

#4766 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I ended up going to Brian at HSA. Very nice person, his work is AMAZING, and he will touch up with real paint no stickers every inch of the playfield till it looks new including the clear coat. There are many great ones out there but I couldn't find a bad review on him and he was very helpful in discussing my needs. I did Try a few others (no names) but they did not seem interested in doing business or just plain scared the crap out of me to do business with them or my playfields. For me you don't have to be the cheapest in town as long as your work and reputation speaks for itself. I would Really love to see what your machine looks like after your done. And if you would share consider via PM, I was just wondering if the black setup was a 200$ problem or a 1000$ problem. lol Evaluating my budget......

Understood. I got what I thought was a very reasonable quote from a preferred restorer, plus he was able to take the job. I just don't have time