(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago

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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Mikespinball
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Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (3 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (1 year ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (4 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#9398 10 months ago

Hi guys, new to the club!

Picked up TZ yesterday.
Only way to get it out of basement was to REMOVE the head. There had been some construction after it went in there.

I have everything connected except J116 and J118. They look the same and both send +12v to optos.
J116 goes to cabinet optos and J118 goes to custom opto sw 10 pcb. What is the custom opto pcb and where is it? Based on the drawings it looks like the plugs would be interchangeable. Both have the ground and are pinned the same. The cabinet optos do not show a ground but both plugs send a ground out.
I would appreciate any help. I am sure i can follow the wires to see which is which if no one here knows.

#9404 10 months ago

Thank you!

#9455 10 months ago

Are those signs often missing?
My game does not have them.

1 month later
#9688 8 months ago

Comet sells a dimmer for the strips.

#9700 8 months ago

Was the 8" strip clear or frosted.
I think that is the perfect amount of light back there. No dimmer needed.
Is that a strip from Comet?

#9722 8 months ago

Who are the sources for the back board decals?
I am liking the spiral so far.

#9731 8 months ago

How are decals applied?
Are they peel and stick?

#9743 8 months ago

How do the batteries go in?
All positive up? All + down? Staggered?
Reviving a game that has not seen power in a few years.
Looks like battery holder has been changed. No plus , no minus

#9744 8 months ago

All positive up.

#9766 8 months ago

In test my "clock is broken".
It took a while to repair the test buttons.
Now that i have access to test, the clock does turn in all of the modes. I suspect i am supposed to look at the matrix on dmd and see changes?

#9768 8 months ago

I do not recall any sounds at all except plastic on plastic gear noise.

#9770 8 months ago

I will check out the connections.

#9772 8 months ago

Is it available at marco?

#9778 8 months ago

I have the superlube already.

#9780 8 months ago

I pulled the face cover off the clock, cleaned exposed optos and got 15 min and 30 min tones in test.
Nothing from 45 min or hour.
I pulled it all apart. Looks like things got pretty hot one day
Is there a way to test optos out of the machine?
What is the correct bulb for these?

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#9781 8 months ago

yzfguy : i did some looking back. You ordered a Caspers Clock Board.
How do you like it?

I prefer to repair things like this but it looks like finding correct parts are only half the battle. The design itself makes it problematic.

#9788 8 months ago

Placing order for caspers from pbl tomorrow.

#9791 8 months ago

Yes, i agree.
I normally would repair something like this but parts are hard to find and it is designed to fail.
So, rather than stress and go to all of that trouble, i am ordering the replacement after work.

#9803 8 months ago

Same question here.....

#9855 8 months ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Have another issue slot machine scoop so very very weak amd ever so often it will not come out at all the game will go into find mode firing all solenoids and after about 5 minutes ball will come dribbling out

Check to make sure the shaft has not expanded due to age. On my machine the end of the shaft is plastic and was peened so bad it dragged in the coil sleeve. You can see if it moves easily without disassembling.

After I cured this it was good, but intermittent. I found a shooter tip rubber down in there slowing things down. (I just got the game a couple of weeks ago)

#9866 8 months ago

Please excuse me for being a knucklehead but i see the em2 and the entering the twilight zone stickers but what is the third one? Is it the one on the ramp?

They do look fabulous and i will be ordering as well.

#9877 8 months ago

Installed new clock board and yzfguy mod to get clock to work.

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#9879 8 months ago

Your efforts were really appreciated!

#9883 8 months ago

I am probably going to remote my battery pack rather than nvram on this game. I know both can live together but seems like a wasted effort to me.
I like the clock keeping time.
Before there was nvram i mounted the battery holders next to the coin box for easy change.
What are others doing?

#9886 8 months ago

Thanks. Thats what i figured.

#9887 8 months ago

What color is the right bulb condom under the clock and what color is the one beside the slot machine?

#9893 8 months ago

I'm in!

#9920 8 months ago

Are these 2 tits supposed to be here? If the ball rolls down slowly it gets stuck on the pop and the tit.

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#9923 8 months ago

It rests on one plug and the skirt of the pop.
I will look up the posts and consider the change.
I am also planning on rebuilding the pops.
If the pop were more sensitive it might move the ball. I am sure the cup of the switch is full of dusty dirty goo.

#9925 8 months ago

I am looking to put all LEDs in my game.
Do i need to add OCD board(s)?
I want all LED, so do i need a board for GI and Feature lamps?

#9932 8 months ago

Thanks for all of the input. I have leds in High Speed and if the lights are off in the game room the flashing can be hard on the eyes. I will wait and think it over.

#9936 7 months ago

My game has code L3.
I will be upgrading to 9.4CH so i can have ball save on all 3 balls.

Looking at ipdb i noticed there were also sound updates. Since my game has old code it is safe to assume it also has original sound roms.
Is it worth buying latest sound roms as well?

#9939 7 months ago

H is home: freeplay only
CH is home and "coin op" ?

All of my games are coin op so freeplay wont work for me.
My parents would rarely give me a quarter to play. Now I have a bucket of quarters in my game room. Help yourself.

#9943 7 months ago

Had no idea who ted estes was.
Googled him. He works for jersey jack now.
Thats cool.

#9945 7 months ago

It looks like yzfguy adapter.
Does it fit over the end of the shaft where the minute hand is?

#9975 7 months ago

Where did the side art come from?

#9987 7 months ago

Does anyone have a problem with the stand up target to the left of slot machine bending backwards from impacts?

I looked at the chute for sale at PBL and it has an arm behind that target. My machine does not have that.

Is that on all machines ? If so, it is likely mine has broken off.

#9991 7 months ago

So you have the reinforced target without the support?
Changing the target again may be easier than adding the arm to the scoop.

#9996 7 months ago

On my game the mounting bracket and the spine of the switch both bend.
An "L" bracket on the front probably will not help me and there is nothing behind it to mount it to.

I will try the reinforced one. If that doesnt work i will weld an arm onto the chute.
Thanks for all the help!

#10006 7 months ago

Pachinko balls are pricey but a great idea. Seem more appropriate given the translight.

#10018 7 months ago

I replaced the LH ramp switch.
Now the LH magnet sw is out.
I suspect i may have moved those wires a bit too much.

#10019 7 months ago

Do mirror blades get scratched when you lift the playfield or are they removed before you lift?

#10035 7 months ago

I think i will install the art , see if i can glue felt to the sides of the playfield and make laminate protectors to slide in between if i have to lift playfield.
I guess i knew they would get scratched.

#10041 7 months ago

My scoop sent it down the outhole every shot.
I removed the scoop and found the tap that is bent over the top was broken.
I welded that. Now it only goes down the out hole 40% of the time on the powerball And 10% on the steel balls.
Before that, it barely could reach the slings. I found a shooter tip down there from the previous owner.

#10044 7 months ago

That must have been quite a surprise!

1 week later
#10133 7 months ago

I have had the game for a couple of months and been playing it. Ball would occaisionally get stuck in the arch of the lock entrance. I would use a wire tie to push it around. Might not get stuck again for 30 or 40 games. I knew something was up in there. I am doing a tear down shop job soon. I would get "it" out then.

Well tonight it got stuck and she "passed a stone" so to speak....

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#10142 7 months ago

It has been written many times on pinside that classic arcades is at best a crap shoot.

#10172 7 months ago

I am also using the clock shaft spacer and have had no issues. ( like yzfguy ).
I posted a pic a few pages back.

#10173 7 months ago

As for the slot machine, i am using the factory coil and many times it shoots the ball down the out hole. So it is powerfull enough if it is functioning correctly.
Be sure the plunger is in good shape and that nothing has fallen down there.
When i got my game, there was a shooter tip down there which made it seem weak at times.

#10176 7 months ago

On the instructions of yzfguy i also cut the top off a clear post using a dremel tool.

#10177 7 months ago

I believe i used one of these.

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#10184 6 months ago

Yes, ball shoots out of the scoop and straight down the middle.
I tried a lot of fixes.
Eventually, I elongated the holes a little and aimed it toward the sling.

#10204 6 months ago

Any guesses what this is?

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#10206 6 months ago

Another TZ mod!

2 weeks later
#10248 6 months ago

Search classic arcades on pinside.
Ordering anything is a crap shoot.
I too have purchased from him.
I posted pics of high speed sling plastics that were not even close to the correct color

#10259 6 months ago

Yzfguy: attach a pic of the post YOU used on this.
After i fitted my clock with a standard playfield post i realized you used a post like the ones above the slot machine.

#10260 6 months ago

I do not like to speak badly of anyone.
My warning of Classic Arcades is based on my High Speed restoration.
CA sells "Hot Stamped" pop bumper covers for HS. They are not hot stamped, simply printed.

Attached is a photo of HS slings i bought from him at Allentown. I found the color difference unacceptable.
If there were absolutely no other options, his stuff is fantastic.

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#10273 5 months ago

Not very fancy , but the Casper Electronics board works well.
You may have the use the yzfguy mod.

1 week later
#10310 5 months ago

I wanted new plungers as part of the rebuild of my pop bumpers.
Shopped around and bay area amusements was the cheapest so i ordered them.
I ordered a couple of the williams manila envelopes for the manuals and paperwork because only bay area sells those.
I got the envelopes but the 3 plungers have struck out on there own, somewhere between Nevada and Boston.
The post office put tape on the box so they knew something happened.

My question is: what do you suppose the post office does with all that treasure that they have no idea what it goes to?

#10312 5 months ago


#10314 5 months ago

I like that.

1 week later
#10342 5 months ago


#10347 5 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

You don’t want to pay today’s price for yesterday’s game and you can’t expect to get today’s game for yesterday’s price.

That is well said.

1 week later
#10397 4 months ago

if you have the part number google it.
I believe that part is used on multiple games and if so you may snag in on EPAY or possibly somewhere else.
But start by googling the number

#10400 4 months ago

Anyone have trouble with LEDs being too tall for the pop bumpers.
Did a full rebuild with everything new.
The 555s fit fine. The LEDs fit in one but not the other two.
All light sockets are the same.
I suspect 2 of the bodies are shorter than the third. One is bright white and the other 2 are not as bright.
Are there 2 heights for pop bodies?

1 week later
#10457 4 months ago

Finished shopping out my machine.
Everything works well except the lower left flipper.
Starts out strong but warms up and gets weak.
Is this coil wired correctly?

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#10459 4 months ago

Yes. It is new.

Closes at end of stroke and tests good for continuity when closed.

#10462 4 months ago

Thanks guys.
I will do both tonight.

#10464 4 months ago

Yeah, it looks that way from that angle but they are not.
I got home too late tonight to dig into it.

#10469 4 months ago

I had time tonight to dig into left flipper issue.
I turned game on and it booted up.
I wanted to play the LH flipper until it got weak.
When i pressed start i got danger and tilt.
Then i had a clock is broken in reports.

This game played well the other night when i shut it down except for LH flipper got soft .
All 3 tilt switches are open.

#10471 4 months ago

Yes eos on all 4 flippers are open.
The tilt issue and clock issue may be related to flippers and may not be.
In test the tilt switch was pulsing with it disconnected. I pulled the main harness as it enters the head and the tilt switch opened. I may have some chaffed wires from lifting the playfield so many times

#10472 4 months ago

And the eos all closed when flippers were activated

#10473 4 months ago

I swapped my flipper boards and now the other flipper goes weak! Thank you for the suggestion coyote.

#10476 4 months ago

I am looking to buy new Flipper Opto boards.

Marco sells the "Gulf Pinball" version and PBL sells the "Home Pin" Version.
I see that the home pin version is more complicated.
Is it worth the extra $$.

I could also just change the optos on my original board but I do not know if it is the 4 pin or 5 pin version. I am in Maine and the game is in Massachusetts. Marco offers the optos as well.
I bet I could get the optos from Allied or Mouser but again do not have numbers.
For $18 it is just easier to buy the Gulf Pinball Opto Board from Marco rather than change optos for $6 each.

Who has used what?

#10480 4 months ago

If the shaft has those "pinched" stops, you could grind them off with a dremil but i do not have any idea how to recreate them once they are gone.

#10500 4 months ago

Does the rubber on the shooter rod protrude beyond the black housing ?
On my game the rubber is well inside the enclosure. The ball bangs on the steel on lame shots in the shooter lane.
Seems like the rubber should be proud of that metal.

1 week later
#10528 3 months ago

Heidi Klun seal of approval

#10553 3 months ago
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

found on ebay, not mine

The casper clock board is cheaper.
IIRC $109

#10567 3 months ago

Label the wires when disconnecting mini playfield.

#10599 3 months ago

Hi guys. I am having an issue with row 4 in the switch matrix.
Shouldnt switch 74 : gumball popper , show open in test with no ball in it?
Doesnt this switch activate the VUK to the gumball machine?

#10600 3 months ago

Never mind.
74 is an opto so it should be closed.

#10605 3 months ago

They have a video of the colordmd for tz on their website.

#10611 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

No Upper PF Magnet Action.

Was it working and stopped or did you remove the power field and now it doesn't work?

#10612 3 months ago

I am having an issue with Row 4 in the switch matrix.
I am still collecting facts and I will post on the general forum once I have all of the symptoms.

If I do not use the game for several days I get an error.
The game will boot ok. (Using 9.4CH Eprom)
You know there is going to be an issue if it prompts you to go into reports.
If it doesn't give you the prompt, all is fine.

If you leave it in attract it is fine.
If you go to start a game it spits out a ball then gives the (2) Danger warnings and goes into tilt.
Sometimes if you plunge the ball it will shoot it back to the out hole and give a second ball ( and tilt that one also) and other times it will not.
The error is always "the clock is broken".

If I use the game everyday. There is no issue.

If you go into test (again, please keep in mind I am still gathering facts)
(14) Plumb bob is closed
(24) Always closed is blinking
(94) 30 second is blinking.

You will hear the gumball VUK (74) shooting with nothing in it.

Usually, within 8 to 10 minutes of searching the tests, it will correct itself and all is well. There is no clock error and it functions fine. There is no tilt and it is fine. You can boot, reboot, and play a game(s) normally.

I am not going to use the game for a few days and do a full switch test to see/record condition of all switches in that row.
Then I am not going to use it for a few days and boot it with J212 disconnected.

Before I had this narrowed down, I believe it was still tilted with J212 disconnected. BUT, this was as I was trying to figure this out so I will not submit this as fact yet.
If no one has any insight to this, I will post as its own thread on the main forum.

#10614 3 months ago

Do the magnets in the orbit work?

#10617 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Spiral magnets work fine.

sorry, missed that part

#10618 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

And yes, the upper PF connectors are connected,

did you test the upper pf entry switch to see if that works?

#10632 3 months ago

I generally probe the molex plugs from the rear ( where the wire goes in)
That way they can be connected during test AND you are less likely to distort the actual connection male or female.

#10649 3 months ago

Hmmf. Why didnt i think of that?

#10660 3 months ago

Does anyone have any flashing bulbs in the back glass?
Just doesnt look like there is any spot for one that is appropriate.
They would go nice behind the stars but there are no sockets there.

#10676 3 months ago

Thanks for the help on the backglass flashers.
I thought the black sockets were just sockets tgat got changed out.

#10769 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Magnets - looks like you have the left and right magnet connections switched

So, they did work just not for the correct switch?

#10781 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

The magnets didn't work at all until the connectors were switched back to stock - violet/white to right


#10801 3 months ago

The later versions have ball save on all 3 balls.

#10805 3 months ago

I am pretty sure that is it.

Manny65 is your game broken or apart for cleaning?

#10864 85 days ago

Looks awesome.

#10882 83 days ago

It will be better tomorrow.
As Rudy says, "hey, its just pinball"

2 weeks later
#11019 69 days ago

Are talking about those #4 screws that screw thru the blued spring steel into the wood of the playfield?
You can just glue a toothpick in that hole to snug up those screws.

#11027 69 days ago

Sounds very familiar........

#11028 69 days ago

LMK if sw 34 is your clock issue.

#11032 69 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

. I've been in there, testing,

You have to be quick.
Go to switch test, not clock test.
Look at row 4.
Is 34 closed when it should be open?
Is sw 24 open when it should be closed? Is sw 24 flashing?

#11077 63 days ago

When i got my game the scoop always seemed sluggish.
It had a shooter rod tip down there.
Try that

#11097 61 days ago

I got this score without LITZ.
I have never made it to LITZ.

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#11122 59 days ago

Does anyone have a pic of an original side of the head.
I want to know if the hinge screws are mill finish and if the cabinet corner screws are "blued" or painted.

#11129 58 days ago


1 week later
#11161 48 days ago

See post 9877.
Then look in that vicinity for yzfguy remedy for casper clock.

1 week later
#11216 41 days ago


#11222 40 days ago

Is that the way that one was made?
I cannot see how the white is showing if the red was applied first.

#11235 37 days ago

I will bet he is printing those and calling them NOS to avoid licensing.

#11243 35 days ago

After owning TZ for 9 months, finally made it to LITZ.
I have avoided the "cheat" and adding more balls to the game because i wanted to make it on my own. It is a fun mode.
The game did get a little confused on where the balls were after and shot 2 into the shooter lane.
When the first ball drained, the game killed the flippers as it should and the second ball drained.

#11246 34 days ago

Thanks for the advice!
I will check that out.

1 week later
#11277 20 days ago

That really looks sharp!
Nice choice.

#11311 17 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

How do you fix this problem?

are there any balls left in the trough when you achieve multiball?
You should see one ready to be launched when you look in there from the shooter lane.

#11343 13 days ago

That is cool!

#11345 13 days ago
Quoted from Ditch_Digger:

I’m about to Jason the hell out of this forum.

Now THAT is funny!

#11350 13 days ago

Which side of this colordmd is the top?

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#11352 13 days ago

Thank you!

#11362 12 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

They were too hard

That is true and why i rarely played it in the wild or at the homes of collectors.

I have been having trouble getting my color dmd to accept the firmware.
I am going out this morning to buy a selection of thumb drives.
Will the firmware work with rom version 9.4 HC ?
I know is supposed to be 9.4H.

#11393 8 days ago

Yeah what he said.
I broke down and bought one last month.
Money WELL spent!

#11394 7 days ago

The colordmd is the best mod money can buy.

#11398 7 days ago

I bought the 301.
Changed IC on WPC MPU with ease in 25 min. No damaged pads or traces.
Usually that job would consisted of several nights of sweating and swearing.

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