Hi guys, new to the club!

Picked up TZ yesterday.
Only way to get it out of basement was to REMOVE the head. There had been some construction after it went in there.

I have everything connected except J116 and J118. They look the same and both send +12v to optos.
J116 goes to cabinet optos and J118 goes to custom opto sw 10 pcb. What is the custom opto pcb and where is it? Based on the drawings it looks like the plugs would be interchangeable. Both have the ground and are pinned the same. The cabinet optos do not show a ground but both plugs send a ground out.
I would appreciate any help. I am sure i can follow the wires to see which is which if no one here knows.
TIA
Cliff

Thank you!

Are those signs often missing?
My game does not have them.

Comet sells a dimmer for the strips.

Was the 8" strip clear or frosted.
I think that is the perfect amount of light back there. No dimmer needed.
Is that a strip from Comet?

Who are the sources for the back board decals?
I am liking the spiral so far.

How are decals applied?
Are they peel and stick?

How do the batteries go in?
All positive up? All + down? Staggered?
Reviving a game that has not seen power in a few years.
Looks like battery holder has been changed. No plus , no minus

All positive up.
Thanks

In test my "clock is broken".
It took a while to repair the test buttons.
Now that i have access to test, the clock does turn in all of the modes. I suspect i am supposed to look at the matrix on dmd and see changes?

Thanks.
I do not recall any sounds at all except plastic on plastic gear noise.

Thanks.
I will check out the connections.

Is it available at marco?

I have the superlube already.

I pulled the face cover off the clock, cleaned exposed optos and got 15 min and 30 min tones in test.
Nothing from 45 min or hour.
I pulled it all apart. Looks like things got pretty hot one day
Is there a way to test optos out of the machine?
What is the correct bulb for these?

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yzfguy : i did some looking back. You ordered a Caspers Clock Board.
How do you like it?

I prefer to repair things like this but it looks like finding correct parts are only half the battle. The design itself makes it problematic.

Placing order for caspers from pbl tomorrow.
Thanks

Yes, i agree.
I normally would repair something like this but parts are hard to find and it is designed to fail.
So, rather than stress and go to all of that trouble, i am ordering the replacement after work.

Same question here.....

Check to make sure the shaft has not expanded due to age. On my machine the end of the shaft is plastic and was peened so bad it dragged in the coil sleeve. You can see if it moves easily without disassembling.

After I cured this it was good, but intermittent. I found a shooter tip rubber down in there slowing things down. (I just got the game a couple of weeks ago)

Please excuse me for being a knucklehead but i see the em2 and the entering the twilight zone stickers but what is the third one? Is it the one on the ramp?

They do look fabulous and i will be ordering as well.

Installed new clock board and yzfguy mod to get clock to work.

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Your efforts were really appreciated!

I am probably going to remote my battery pack rather than nvram on this game. I know both can live together but seems like a wasted effort to me.
I like the clock keeping time.
Before there was nvram i mounted the battery holders next to the coin box for easy change.
What are others doing?

Thanks. Thats what i figured.

What color is the right bulb condom under the clock and what color is the one beside the slot machine?

I'm in!

Are these 2 tits supposed to be here? If the ball rolls down slowly it gets stuck on the pop and the tit.

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It rests on one plug and the skirt of the pop.
I will look up the posts and consider the change.
I am also planning on rebuilding the pops.
If the pop were more sensitive it might move the ball. I am sure the cup of the switch is full of dusty dirty goo.

I am looking to put all LEDs in my game.
Do i need to add OCD board(s)?
I want all LED, so do i need a board for GI and Feature lamps?

Thanks for all of the input. I have leds in High Speed and if the lights are off in the game room the flashing can be hard on the eyes. I will wait and think it over.

My game has code L3.
I will be upgrading to 9.4CH so i can have ball save on all 3 balls.

Looking at ipdb i noticed there were also sound updates. Since my game has old code it is safe to assume it also has original sound roms.
Is it worth buying latest sound roms as well?

H is home: freeplay only
CH is home and "coin op" ?

All of my games are coin op so freeplay wont work for me.
My parents would rarely give me a quarter to play. Now I have a bucket of quarters in my game room. Help yourself.

Had no idea who ted estes was.
Googled him. He works for jersey jack now.
Thats cool.

It looks like yzfguy adapter.
Does it fit over the end of the shaft where the minute hand is?

Where did the side art come from?

Does anyone have a problem with the stand up target to the left of slot machine bending backwards from impacts?

I looked at the chute for sale at PBL and it has an arm behind that target. My machine does not have that.

Is that on all machines ? If so, it is likely mine has broken off.

So you have the reinforced target without the support?
Changing the target again may be easier than adding the arm to the scoop.

On my game the mounting bracket and the spine of the switch both bend.
An "L" bracket on the front probably will not help me and there is nothing behind it to mount it to.

I will try the reinforced one. If that doesnt work i will weld an arm onto the chute.
Thanks for all the help!

Pachinko balls are pricey but a great idea. Seem more appropriate given the translight.

I replaced the LH ramp switch.
Now the LH magnet sw is out.
I suspect i may have moved those wires a bit too much.
D'oh!

Do mirror blades get scratched when you lift the playfield or are they removed before you lift?

I think i will install the art , see if i can glue felt to the sides of the playfield and make laminate protectors to slide in between if i have to lift playfield.
I guess i knew they would get scratched.

My scoop sent it down the outhole every shot.
I removed the scoop and found the tap that is bent over the top was broken.
I welded that. Now it only goes down the out hole 40% of the time on the powerball And 10% on the steel balls.
Before that, it barely could reach the slings. I found a shooter tip down there from the previous owner.

Thats CLASSIC!
That must have been quite a surprise!

I have had the game for a couple of months and been playing it. Ball would occaisionally get stuck in the arch of the lock entrance. I would use a wire tie to push it around. Might not get stuck again for 30 or 40 games. I knew something was up in there. I am doing a tear down shop job soon. I would get "it" out then.

Well tonight it got stuck and she "passed a stone" so to speak....

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It has been written many times on pinside that classic arcades is at best a crap shoot.

I am also using the clock shaft spacer and have had no issues. ( like yzfguy ).
I posted a pic a few pages back.

As for the slot machine, i am using the factory coil and many times it shoots the ball down the out hole. So it is powerfull enough if it is functioning correctly.
Be sure the plunger is in good shape and that nothing has fallen down there.
When i got my game, there was a shooter tip down there which made it seem weak at times.

On the instructions of yzfguy i also cut the top off a clear post using a dremel tool.

I believe i used one of these.

pasted_image (resized).jpeg

Yes, ball shoots out of the scoop and straight down the middle.
I tried a lot of fixes.
Eventually, I elongated the holes a little and aimed it toward the sling.

Any guesses what this is?

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Excellent!
Another TZ mod!

Search classic arcades on pinside.
Ordering anything is a crap shoot.
I too have purchased from him.
Crap.
I posted pics of high speed sling plastics that were not even close to the correct color

Yzfguy: attach a pic of the post YOU used on this.
After i fitted my clock with a standard playfield post i realized you used a post like the ones above the slot machine.

I do not like to speak badly of anyone.
My warning of Classic Arcades is based on my High Speed restoration.
CA sells "Hot Stamped" pop bumper covers for HS. They are not hot stamped, simply printed.

Attached is a photo of HS slings i bought from him at Allentown. I found the color difference unacceptable.
If there were absolutely no other options, his stuff is fantastic.

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Not very fancy , but the Casper Electronics board works well.
You may have the use the yzfguy mod.

I wanted new plungers as part of the rebuild of my pop bumpers.
Shopped around and bay area amusements was the cheapest so i ordered them.
I ordered a couple of the williams manila envelopes for the manuals and paperwork because only bay area sells those.
I got the envelopes but the 3 plungers have struck out on there own, somewhere between Nevada and Boston.
The post office put tape on the box so they knew something happened.

My question is: what do you suppose the post office does with all that treasure that they have no idea what it goes to?

LOL

I like that.

D'oh!

That is well said.

if you have the part number google it.
I believe that part is used on multiple games and if so you may snag in on EPAY or possibly somewhere else.
But start by googling the number

Anyone have trouble with LEDs being too tall for the pop bumpers.
Did a full rebuild with everything new.
The 555s fit fine. The LEDs fit in one but not the other two.
All light sockets are the same.
I suspect 2 of the bodies are shorter than the third. One is bright white and the other 2 are not as bright.
Are there 2 heights for pop bodies?

Finished shopping out my machine.
Everything works well except the lower left flipper.
Starts out strong but warms up and gets weak.
Is this coil wired correctly?

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Yes. It is new.

Closes at end of stroke and tests good for continuity when closed.

Thanks guys.
I will do both tonight.

Yeah, it looks that way from that angle but they are not.
I got home too late tonight to dig into it.

I had time tonight to dig into left flipper issue.
I turned game on and it booted up.
I wanted to play the LH flipper until it got weak.
When i pressed start i got danger and tilt.
Then i had a clock is broken in reports.

This game played well the other night when i shut it down except for LH flipper got soft .
All 3 tilt switches are open.

Yes eos on all 4 flippers are open.
The tilt issue and clock issue may be related to flippers and may not be.
In test the tilt switch was pulsing with it disconnected. I pulled the main harness as it enters the head and the tilt switch opened. I may have some chaffed wires from lifting the playfield so many times

And the eos all closed when flippers were activated

I swapped my flipper boards and now the other flipper goes weak! Thank you for the suggestion coyote.

I am looking to buy new Flipper Opto boards.

Marco sells the "Gulf Pinball" version and PBL sells the "Home Pin" Version.
I see that the home pin version is more complicated.
Is it worth the extra $$.

I could also just change the optos on my original board but I do not know if it is the 4 pin or 5 pin version. I am in Maine and the game is in Massachusetts. Marco offers the optos as well.
I bet I could get the optos from Allied or Mouser but again do not have numbers.
For $18 it is just easier to buy the Gulf Pinball Opto Board from Marco rather than change optos for $6 each.

Who has used what?

If the shaft has those "pinched" stops, you could grind them off with a dremil but i do not have any idea how to recreate them once they are gone.

Does the rubber on the shooter rod protrude beyond the black housing ?
On my game the rubber is well inside the enclosure. The ball bangs on the steel on lame shots in the shooter lane.
Seems like the rubber should be proud of that metal.

Heidi Klun seal of approval

The casper clock board is cheaper.
IIRC $109

Label the wires when disconnecting mini playfield.

Hi guys. I am having an issue with row 4 in the switch matrix.
Shouldnt switch 74 : gumball popper , show open in test with no ball in it?
Doesnt this switch activate the VUK to the gumball machine?

Never mind.
74 is an opto so it should be closed.

They have a video of the colordmd for tz on their website.

Was it working and stopped or did you remove the power field and now it doesn't work?

I am having an issue with Row 4 in the switch matrix.
I am still collecting facts and I will post on the general forum once I have all of the symptoms.

If I do not use the game for several days I get an error.
The game will boot ok. (Using 9.4CH Eprom)
You know there is going to be an issue if it prompts you to go into reports.
If it doesn't give you the prompt, all is fine.

If you leave it in attract it is fine.
If you go to start a game it spits out a ball then gives the (2) Danger warnings and goes into tilt.
Sometimes if you plunge the ball it will shoot it back to the out hole and give a second ball ( and tilt that one also) and other times it will not.
The error is always "the clock is broken".

If I use the game everyday. There is no issue.

If you go into test (again, please keep in mind I am still gathering facts)
(14) Plumb bob is closed
(24) Always closed is blinking
(94) 30 second is blinking.

You will hear the gumball VUK (74) shooting with nothing in it.

Usually, within 8 to 10 minutes of searching the tests, it will correct itself and all is well. There is no clock error and it functions fine. There is no tilt and it is fine. You can boot, reboot, and play a game(s) normally.

I am not going to use the game for a few days and do a full switch test to see/record condition of all switches in that row.
Then I am not going to use it for a few days and boot it with J212 disconnected.

Before I had this narrowed down, I believe it was still tilted with J212 disconnected. BUT, this was as I was trying to figure this out so I will not submit this as fact yet.
If no one has any insight to this, I will post as its own thread on the main forum.

Do the magnets in the orbit work?

sorry, missed that part

did you test the upper pf entry switch to see if that works?

I generally probe the molex plugs from the rear ( where the wire goes in)
That way they can be connected during test AND you are less likely to distort the actual connection male or female.

Hmmf. Why didnt i think of that?

Does anyone have any flashing bulbs in the back glass?
Just doesnt look like there is any spot for one that is appropriate.
They would go nice behind the stars but there are no sockets there.

Thanks for the help on the backglass flashers.
I thought the black sockets were just sockets tgat got changed out.

So, they did work just not for the correct switch?

Hmm.

The later versions have ball save on all 3 balls.

I am pretty sure that is it.

Manny65 is your game broken or apart for cleaning?

Looks awesome.

It will be better tomorrow.
As Rudy says, "hey, its just pinball"

Are talking about those #4 screws that screw thru the blued spring steel into the wood of the playfield?
You can just glue a toothpick in that hole to snug up those screws.

Sounds very familiar........

LMK if sw 34 is your clock issue.

You have to be quick.
Go to switch test, not clock test.
Look at row 4.
Is 34 closed when it should be open?
Is sw 24 open when it should be closed? Is sw 24 flashing?

When i got my game the scoop always seemed sluggish.
It had a shooter rod tip down there.
Try that

I got this score without LITZ.
I have never made it to LITZ.

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Does anyone have a pic of an original side of the head.
I want to know if the hinge screws are mill finish and if the cabinet corner screws are "blued" or painted.

Thx

See post 9877.
Then look in that vicinity for yzfguy remedy for casper clock.

Dude

Is that the way that one was made?
I cannot see how the white is showing if the red was applied first.

I will bet he is printing those and calling them NOS to avoid licensing.

After owning TZ for 9 months, finally made it to LITZ.
I have avoided the "cheat" and adding more balls to the game because i wanted to make it on my own. It is a fun mode.
The game did get a little confused on where the balls were after and shot 2 into the shooter lane.
When the first ball drained, the game killed the flippers as it should and the second ball drained.

Thanks for the advice!
I will check that out.

That really looks sharp!
Nice choice.

are there any balls left in the trough when you achieve multiball?
You should see one ready to be launched when you look in there from the shooter lane.