Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider per3per3.
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So...I have a really nice TAF currently on the market that I am selling to hopefully buy a nice TZ. It dawned on me that I should just throw out a trade offer to you fine folks in the TZ club as someone who would like to be a future member!
Your TZ for my TAF...who's interested?
Please PM me if interested and we can work out any +/- cash situations if they make sense.
Here's a link to my TAF:
I'm hoping someone can help me out that has replaced their TZ translite. I just received and installed a new one that I bought from Little Shop of Games but they source through Planetary Pinball Supply...so it's a next gen which I was assured is just as good if not better (richer colors) than the original. Anyways, I turn the machine on and I can basically see almost every individual LED bulb shine through the translite...it doesn't look good at all. The new translite's backing almost seems translucent and it doesn't look good at all. I'm using normal one LED non-ghosting bulbs from cointaker, so it's not like I'm using ultra brights or anything out of the ordinary for backbox illumination.
Does anyone else have a next gen/PPS replacement translite and is yours like this?
Is there another supplier and is the product better?
Thanks!
P.S. It's significantly more noticeable in person vs. in the pics
Quoted from wizard_mode:whoah that looks crazy! I have the repro "starlight" translite on my machine and the lights do not shine thru at all!
Where can I find the repro "starlight" one?
Quoted from stpcore:If you want to PM me I do have translite material and can send you a blank piece cut to the original translite size. Double it up behind your new translite and that should diffuse the light enough so you aren't seeing those individual LEDs.
PM sent! My only concern will be that the light won't shine through enough if the translite has a double back...but I'd be willing to try it?
I just installed the ingo clock board and when I turn on the machine the minute hand goes to the 12 position as it should be the hour hand goes to the 6 position? The board is definitely right-side up, it's clearly marked and that aspect would be hard to screw up. In clock test, it confirms that the machine thinks it's showing 12:00 and when I move the hour hand around in test its the exact opposite of what it should be (eg if the hour hand is at 8 it shows 2 as the time).
I was very careful, per the installation instructions, to not touch the gears at all.
Please HELP!
Quoted from arcadenerd925:My ingo clock board didn't come with install instructions. is the one posted @ the bottom of the clock page still relevant?
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/tz-clock-instruction-english.html
That's what I used. Let me know if you need any help as I just did it this afternoon
Quoted from stpcore:If you want to PM me I do have translite material and can send you a blank piece cut to the original translite size. Double it up behind your new translite and that should diffuse the light enough so you aren't seeing those individual LEDs.
stpcore's solution worked like a charm! The LEDs are no longer visible and the translite looks amazing! I was concerned that too much light would be blocked but that's not the case at all.
Alright...so I have a minor issue that I'm hoping someone else has encountered and resolved:
When a ball drains and lands in the center outhole, the kicker that moves the ball into the trough sometimes get caught up on the switch that tells the machine that a ball has drained. This has caused the kicker arm to get stuck and not retract properly. It used to happen periodically and I've noticed it happens more frequently. If it doesn't retract and gets caught up on the switch, then a ball that lands in the outhole won't be able to register as drained. When I physically move the switch to ensure that the kicker arm doesn't hit it, the kicker arm is having a hard time retracting more than about 50%. The kicker strength in terms of launching a ball into the trough seems perfectly fine...it's the retract motion that's the issue.
I tested the mechanism and it freely moves back and forth...so there's nothing that seems to be impeding it's movement. A few questions:
- What is that mechanism called that kicks the ball from the outhole into the trough (in case I need to order parts)?
- What do you think I need to do?
Thanks!
Quoted from per3per3:Alright...so I have a minor issue that I'm hoping someone else has encountered and resolved:
When a ball drains and lands in the center outhole, the kicker that moves the ball into the trough sometimes get caught up on the switch that tells the machine that a ball has drained. This has caused the kicker arm to get stuck and not retract properly. It used to happen periodically and I've noticed it happens more frequently. If it doesn't retract and gets caught up on the switch, then a ball that lands in the outhole won't be able to register as drained. When I physically move the switch to ensure that the kicker arm doesn't hit it, the kicker arm is having a hard time retracting more than about 50%. The kicker strength in terms of launching a ball into the trough seems perfectly fine...it's the retract motion that's the issue.
I tested the mechanism and it freely moves back and forth...so there's nothing that seems to be impeding it's movement. A few questions:
- What is that mechanism called that kicks the ball from the outhole into the trough (in case I need to order parts)?
- What do you think I need to do?
Thanks!
After doing some additional research, the 'Outhole Kicker Assembly' is the thing I'm talking about. I would assume that if it moves freely, it's likely just the spring? Should I also replace the coil tubing and the plunger & link assembly?
Thanks!
Quoted from toeskneez:I have a question for all the TZ owners out there. I have a great machine, that plays well, everything works pretty well and I am really happy with it.
When you first start any game are your 2 million and Battle the Power lights lit solid straight away when the game starts (down near the flippers) ? And the 4 million one flashing?
I would have thought that they would start off with the 2 million flashing and then advance as needed. I dont even know yet what advances them, thats tonights reading!!
Love to hear what everyone elses does, and see if this is common, or only on some machines.
I can confirm that my machine mirrors what you described...I hope that's what it's supposed to be doing! My assumption is that this is controlled somewhere in the menu settings (i.e. easy, medium, difficult).
Quoted from Luppin:I need to replace the screw that holds the wire chute to the mini-playfield. Which part number is this screw?
I'm actually in that same boat. A part number would be much appreciated!
Quoted from Neal_W:Fuse 106 through 110 are for GI and located in the lower left area of the driver board. That should narrow it down.
I found it...it's F106. I didn't realize that, in the test menu, you can hold the start button and the machine tells you what circuit and fuse is associated with what you're testing. For instance, I went into the GI test, went to the right side (which was dark), then held the start button and it told me the "White/Violet" wire...I then referenced then in the manual's fuse list and boom...F106! Very useful to know moving forward!
Quoted from SteveO:I need a quick sale. I posted it on a Florida forum as I prefer a local sale but will post on Pinside if I continue to get crickets. Thanks for the input!
If you were in the Northern VA area...you would sell a decent TZ for $5700 in about 20 minutes! Definitely post on pinside.
Quoted from tonyf1965:I stretch over the arm of a wooden chair for a few hours. Sometimes they go on easier than other times. Its strange. Also start at the narrow end not the large end.
Microwave them for 10-15 seconds
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:Gum is the left ramp, ball is the right ramp. After they are lit you can load the gumball machine by shooting the right loop.
To get LitZ you need to light all twelve door panels. Generally those are lit via the piano and slot machine. The camera can also light some of them.
Also, each time you beat the power you'll get a door award. To further clarify, hitting the slot machine gives you a random door award and hitting the piano gives you the currently blinking door award. Once you get all of the door awards then the ? Door award lights and you just need to hit either the slot or piano to start lost in the zone
I've had my TZ for a few years now and finally rebuilt the bottom flippers this past weekend. I noticed that the flipper coils on my machine are different: the left is 11629 and the right is 15411. The right one feels noticeably more powerful than the left and I thought it was wrong but the manual says 15411 is the right coil.
What flippers coils do you all use and recommend? The reason I ask is that the left actually feels more appropriate for the game as the right one feels a bit too powerful.
Quoted from per3per3:I've had my TZ for a few years now and finally rebuilt the bottom flippers this past weekend. I noticed that the flipper coils on my machine are different: the left is 11629 and the right is 15411. The right one feels noticeably more powerful than the left and I thought it was wrong but the manual says 15411 is the right coil.
What flippers coils do you all use and recommend? The reason I ask is that the left actually feels more appropriate for the game as the right one feels a bit too powerful.
First of all, I appreciate the responses and suggestions. To be clear, I just rebuilt the bottom main flippers but did not replace the flipper coils. The right flipper coil is 15411, and the left is 11629. I didn't observe a noticeable difference in flipper strength between these two flippers before rebuilding them, but after the right flipper which apparently has the weaker of the two coils is definitely stronger. Does anyone have an explanation as to why this would be considering the left flipper with the stronger coil (11629) should be the stronger of the two?
Quoted from Seatmandan:When you say "re-built" what do you mean? new coil sleeves, plungers, EOS switches and coil stops?
Is there ANY slop or play in the coil between the front stop and coil stop? (see image)
Does the coil still wiggle? If so, then it's possible the tab on the flipper bracket where the 2 socket head screws attach the coil stop is bent down, no t allowing for a tight fit. This was the case on both my TZ and Indy. I had to take a crescent wrench and bend the tab back to straight.
ANY slight movement in the coil will cause it to act weak
were the coil sleeves free moving when you replaced them?
This photo is from my Dirty Harry
I replaced the coil stop, the coil sleeves, the springs, the plungers and the flipper bushings. There's a little play with the coil, just a little, but it's the same for both flippers. The plunger is moving freely through the sleeve on both.
Quoted from per3per3:I replaced the coil stop, the coil sleeves, the springs, the plungers and the flipper bushings. There's a little play with the coil, just a little, but it's the same for both flippers. The plunger is moving freely through the sleeve on both.
Something I am noticing, which is probably the culprit, is when I have the playfield down and just move each flipper up and down with my hand. The right one is looser (less resistance) than the left. How do I adjust that?
Quoted from jawjaw:Left flipper always felt weak or sluggish on mine. Inconsistent, too. Cleaning the opto helped but replacing the opto board finally seemed to fix it.
I'll swap the two flipper opto boards and clean the opto and see if I feel any difference.
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Vienna, VA