(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago

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Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (3 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (1 year ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (4 months ago)

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#10565 3 months ago

Hi Everyone, not an owner, but about to start a PF strip and clean for a good friend of mine. I'd like to make this as nice as I can for him, but truth be told this is not a table that I have a ton of familiarity with. Are there any must have mods/recommendations that y'all recommend?

I plan to spend tomorrow reading through this thread and getting myself more familiar with everything, but figured it also couldn't hurt to ask. I thank you all in advance.

#10569 3 months ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

Joan's videos might help you -- I've personally found them informative.
Part 1, you can find the rest on his profile:

Oh these will be great. Many thanks.

Quoted from PinballAir:

Label the wires when disconnecting mini playfield.


#10571 3 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

The magnet for the upper pf diverter (dumps the ball down above upper flipper) is highly recommended. There is a separator plastic piece for the gumball machine that keeps balls from jamming up in there. The lock panel flashers mod is nice but not really necessary. Reinforced target needed for piano target. Stock one takes a beating and gets bent back, causing air balls. With all games, I highly recommend ocd boards with leds.

Awesome. thank you so much!

#10577 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

LED shade of white for inserts:
What do you prefer?
Warm White?
Natural/Cool White?
All 1SMD?

That's going to come down to your tastes. I have terrible night vision, anything dim and dark is miserable for me so I like my pins bright. I go natural white for: white, yellow amber and then the associated color for blue, green, red, purple. And much to the dismay of Taxman (RIP) I go 4 SMD.

I've read through the first ten or so pages of this group and must say it is one of the better and most helpful ones out there. It seems like a really solid and passionate group of pin owners. I cannot wait to get this PF started. It's great when you can help get a friend's pin back up and running.

#10578 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Opto Confusion:
Left-magnet opto switch (#83) out.
Had to pull the ramp to inspect.
Orange lead disconnected.
Whew! Problem solved!
Not so fast...
After the solder repair, the switch is still open in test (should be closed until beam is broken).
Meter reads 2V at working optos elsewhere on PF, but 29V at #83.
29V???? WTF?
Photo shows left- and right opto connectors.
All looks Kosher but clearly is not.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I am guessing you checked multiple times to make sure this wasn't a mistake/meter error? If so, again I don't have a ton of knowledge with this game and don't have time to look in the manual before heading out to work, but if this has an associated resistor (which many do) I would check that first. It's also worth checking the voltage from the PCB to see where that is at.

#10585 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Hi, NG. Thanks for your help. I did check and recheck the voltage at the switch and couldn't believe it read 29V when it should read just 2V. I will replace the opto and see where we are. I will have to ask LTG for help reading diagrams if I hope to find the associated resistor and just where the power for that switch leaves the PCB - or even *which* PCB. Do you *not* recommend just replacing the opto and seeing what happens?

On my MM, there is a PCB under the PF that has a resistor stack on it for the optos. Resistors bring down the voltage so it's the first place I would look if it's that high at the switch. The opto itself is pretty simple and I doubt it would cause what you are experiencing voltage wise.

I have my friend's manual here and have the day off tomorrow, so I can dig a little more.

#10620 3 months ago

I spent a good seven to eight hours breaking down my friend's PF. Oooof I don't think this game has ever been shopped out. My lord, this is going to be a long one.

I was also surprised by how puzzle like it is put together, it's a pretty neat PF setup. I can't say it's one of my favorites to work on, but I can't wait to get it back to its glory. Thank you all for the mod suggestions as well as other links. I'm feeling pretty good about this.

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#10622 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Whewwwwwwhee. That'll look completely revitalized once it's all cleaned up.

Just wooof! Normally a vacuum and a dry rag and the PF is looking solid again. This one I had to go the naptha route and even that didn't touch some of this. It is legit caked on grime. I hate to do it, but I think it's magic eraser and simple green time tomorrow.

#10625 3 months ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I'd start with Simple Green and avoid the abrasive. Only use the abrasive for stubborn dirt that you want to remove. Remember that the dirt will come back as the game is played. It will come back faster if you don't clean out the subways on the game.

Agreed, microfiber and green and then ME if needed (which I fear it might). Who knows SG is pretty dang aggressive on its own.

Oh subway is already out and waiting for its bath. Everything that can be removed and cleaned will be.

I'm also doing all new sleeves, springs, flipper and pop rebuilds...waiting to hear back from my friend on mods. I'd like to upgrade to the Mantis slot scoop as this one has been welded and is a bit deformed. I think the diverter magnet is a must too. This thread has been an amazing resource.

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#10626 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Source for used, WPC89 coin doors, anyone?
My coin door and frame look awful. Too much rust/corrosion and the door doesn't close smoothly. I don't want to take it all apart and refinish it. Too much work, too much expense. I would rather find a used donor door and frame. Any ideas where I should look? I wish there were a bone yard I could visit.

I would just make a WTB post. I plan to upgrade the coin door on my MM when I do the cab, but that won't be for some time. Pinball life has new for under $200. They sell the raw frames for $10. You can maybe look around for the skins, for like $40 or so. That would put you in a great place.

#10627 3 months ago

Hey Everyone, quick question, I am about to start the mech rebuild process and I noticed my friend's PF has a 15411 and 11629 coils for the bottom flippers. The manual calls for the 15411. Before I order up another I just wanted to check in with y'all to make sure the 11629 wasn't some sort of "upgrade" or Williams bulletin or something.

Does anyone know why the left flipper might have been changed? My default is usually it's what the operator had and used, but I wanted to make sure.

#10629 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Nope - should be 15411's. The tech bulletin only changed the part number for the EOS switch, and called out usage of the longer coil stop (shorter flipper travel)

Thank you!

#10643 3 months ago

I am not sure if you are aware, but if you have the coin door open, the power to the coils is killed as a safety feature. So you won't get a reading.

As per the upper PF magnets, check all of your connectors and check your manual to see what fuse is associated with them.

#10648 3 months ago

My apologies for asking, as I have not yet gotten to break down the mini playfield, but I was wondering if it uses the same magnet cores as the playfield? My friend's magnets have some wear and I know I can buy new cores, but if the minis were the same I would just swap them out. I know the body is the same, and the manual shows the same part number I just wasn't sure if they used the same core.

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#10651 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No, the Mini PF's cores do not stick out through the playfield. I am not sure you could unscrew them deep enough to mount properly on the Mni PF. You can try; would involve just screwing the adjustable core down enough.
But the Mini PF's cores will NOT work in the main PF, because the cores are 'fixed' - non-adjustable.

Thank you, I was wondering if they were fixed or not given the limited clearance. New cores it is!

#10653 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Smart idea!
Harvest two pristine magnets from mini-PF!
That never occurred to me, so I took out the cores and dressed/polished them.[quoted image][quoted image]

Those came out great! Did you just grind them and then polish?

#10702 3 months ago

I got the second coat of wax down on my friend's PF today. Tomorrow I shall start repopulating. As they say thoughts and prayers...

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#10707 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Lookin' good!

Thanks. However it turns out will be an improvement.

1 week later
#10835 89 days ago

Making some progress. I hoped to have this wrapped up and delivered to my friend this weekend (fingers crossed). Quick question, he bought the Comet pinball light kit complete with upper PF star post lights. Has anyone installed these? If so where did you run their lines through and to?

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#10857 87 days ago

I just want to say, that out of all of the groups I am and have been a part of this has by far been the most helpful and positive. You guys are all great ambassadors to the hobby.

#10862 86 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I'm probably the biggest help hog up here right now, so, at the very least, I should second this sentiment. Thank you, nerdygrrl, Coyote, Manny, and LTG in particular. Y'all da' best!

I am loving all of the trouble shooting. Have you been keeping a blog of your project? I am so curious where and what you started with.

#10863 86 days ago

I am feeling pretty good about this. The re-population has been going much smoother than I would have thought. I am hoping to wrap everything up tomorrow and get it back to my friend on Sunday. This has definitely been a fun one to clean up.

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#10873 85 days ago

OK guys I am stumped. I walked away last night, and revisited it today and I am still stumped. Can anyone tell me where the white opto for switch 81 (right magnet) opto connects to?

Per my breakdown pictures its line runs straight up the right hand side of the PF and exits at the hole on the top right. I labeled my connectors and truth be told my handwriting is atrocious, but it appears its mate is on the center top of the PF opposite side(marked with the blue tape). I have looked everywhere for another option, thinking that maybe the other line says 24 instead of 21 and don't see it and every other plug has lined up nicely.

I am truly stumped. There is no way this will reach across the PF and I don't see any other connectors without a mate.

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#10875 85 days ago

Thanks, the manual is telling me opto in question should be green-grey, and orange-brown. This is like a black and then an orange-grey. I can't see how I would have mixed them up as they didn't get removed until I went to clean the ball guide and then they went right back on.

I'll go back down tomorrow and reverify the colors.

#10877 85 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Maybe they were wrong before you started ?
LTG : )

Always blame the previous guy

Luckily my friend did a tear down on his before I started this, I had him save his photos and he's got some helpful shots. I'll tackle it tomorrow after some sleep. Amazing how something so small can derail your progress.

#10879 85 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I believe that the Grey/xx colors should match. The plug for that opto looks like it is Grey/Orange. The wiring harness I can not see. Grey/Orange is the right ramp. (Powerfield ramp.)
Guessing that you have those reversed. While the Grey/x colors don't matter (i.e. one white LED is the same as another), it looks like you got them reversed.
LED and Opto colors are on page 3-16 of the manual. If you have a sample game (does not look like you do) the manual's wires should match up, color-wise.

So I think this is what you were saying. The ball guide in question has optos for both switch 81 and 83 on them and I have those reversed. And if so, yes, why I do believe that is it. Many thanks for the assist!

#10881 84 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Good luck.
Now that I'm home, I can check my game. However, I have a sample game, so it may not match what you're working on there.

That was definitely the problem. Swapped them around and all is well in the world again, all except for that silly mini pf. I just fought with the stupid post lamps and the mini pf for the last three hours. The long Cliffy doesn't seem to fit well either. It's near impossible to get it around the nut. I ended up removing it. So much for wrapping this up today. So close, yet so far.

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#10887 83 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Do you mean you struggled to pull the old bulbs from those sockets? I can relate! Those two are devilish! You can't grab hold of them to do any real pulling. Or perhaps you're just talking about the star-post lights.
Your shop job is amazing. Mad props to you for doing such a thorough job.

Sadly no, my friend wanted the start posts lights installed and they were a PIA with the limited clearance on the pf.

#10929 78 days ago
Quoted from pinhead_jack:

Hey TZ community - I am preparing to start (another) scratch build and I am looking to pick up a few remaining parts that I need before I get started. Can anyone help me identify the post that is used for supporting the right side of the mini playfield? Is it one part, a combination of parts?? Is there a particular spring size here? Thank you very much![quoted image]

Here's what it looks like, one piece plus spring.

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#10976 74 days ago
Quoted from Purdue:

Hello, i was wondering if anybody has used pop bumper LED rings on their TZ?
I think they would look great but amplify the need for LED_OCD GI, which im already thinking i will need anyways?
Im planning out a full led swap (minus the flashers and blinkers in the backbox).
Comet sunlight frosted 2smd
LED-OCD GI and Inserts
pop bumper led rings
Am i missing anything here? We've got a first timer here

I got those for my friend's TZ that I just shopped out and wasn't happy with their quality. I didn't install them.

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