(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago

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#1056 4 years ago

It's just white plastic. I plan to paint mine.

I got it for my project TZ which I'm waiting for the cold weather before 'crossing over in to the zone' and starting. That's a story for another day.

I see the power ball in my pin is light tan with brown crackle like marbling. For some reason, I though it was more blue/purple mother of pearl colored. Not sure where I got that idea, I checked the power ball in pinball arcade which is also light tan. Well maybe I will paint my shooter rod mother of pearl colored anyway.

2 weeks later
#1107 4 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Proud TZ owner as of last week!

Blue behind the translight logo is a nice touch.

#1136 4 years ago

This area? Grabbed a few angles from inside my project TZ. Waiting for cold weather before starting.






1 week later
#1177 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

when was the last machine produced?

Searching around online, I found the first prototypes were made in Feb/March '93, and release was April.

The latest manufacturing date I saw on www.ipsnd.net was 8/23/93, but I didn't click every single one, and many don't register there.

#1179 4 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

I thought they remained in production for a few years

That wouldn't work in those days. No OP would want to buy a new pin that had already been on location for a long period elsewhere in town.

The factories probably ran nights and weekends. Imagine the endless truckloads of cabinets, playfields, circuit boards, and parts that arrived daily.

1 week later
#1196 4 years ago


#1214 4 years ago

How may GI bulbs in a TZ playfiled?

Need to get some parts lined up for my project.

#1216 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

16 on left
13 on right

Thanks, that's a good start. Some 'cool white frosted' LED should brighten it up, and their bluish tint should match the theme.

Next I have to decide on black or white rubbers.

Anyone have comparison pics?

#1218 4 years ago

I floated some black and white oil paint on water, then dipped my white shooter rod to get a swirl effect.


#1223 4 years ago

More pics plz!

#1242 4 years ago

If you scroll up, you can see the image of his back box. The doorway is white on the side of the back box, not orange/yellow.

#1263 4 years ago

I didn't realize the trough had four switches to count balls. That does make sense, to determine if the gumball machine needs to be loaded.

It seems that with extra balls installed, I would just get the power ball less often. No fun in that. I think I will stick with 5+1.

1 week later
#1272 4 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I did these coin return inserts a few years back.

Nice touch!

1 week later
#1331 4 years ago
Quoted from bdaley6509:

Finally joined. This is mine, pre CPR mini playfield, slot mod, etc.

Nice! I love the spiral back wall and bright lighting. The two tone clock is an eye catcher too.

Need to do something to make mine unique, but fixing the clock is low on my long TZ project list, but the cool weather is coming, and I have ordered some parts, so it's high time to start. hehe

It seems every TZ that I play on location does not play very well, and I wondered if the TZ gameplay in Pinball Arcade was nothing like the real thing, but I recently played one that rocked, and I won a few free games. Now I know that TZ can kick ass in real life, and imagine once my project is done, I am going to be a happy camper.

3 weeks later
#1356 4 years ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

anybody out there looking to buy one of those TZ slot machine toppers?

Not sure. Never seen one before, and no results on google image. Post a pic here!

#1361 4 years ago
Quoted from kevinleedrum:

Here's one I found on Youtube.

Ahh.. I was looking for a slot machine shaped topper. I had seen slot machine parts on other pins like Fester on TAF, but it's the first I have seen that. Pretty snazzy!

1 week later
#1396 4 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Is there really no Twilight Zone TV Series tie-in with the gumball machine?

None. Gumball machines are whimsical childhood Americana from days gone bye, which fit the theme perfectly.

I know in TAF on Pinball Arcade they had to change Festers face because they didn't have the license for Christopher Lloyd's likeness.

Would love to hear other TAF inconsistencies!

#1405 4 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

Does anyone know where this wire piece goes?

Right. The end with larger connectors with the black and white wires goes toward the transformer and power switch box. Specifically the one at the very end of the line connects to the transformer and the one next to it goes to the power switch box output. Look closely to determine the end one since they are tie wrapped together. Looking closer I see one is male and one is female, so you can't go wrong.

On the other end, the flat connector with the red/black wires goes to the coin door harness near where the door hinges, and the square connector is not used.

It seems besides supplying the 120vac to the transformer, that cable supplies it to the coin door area where it is not connected. The hose covers the wires where they pass over the tilt sensor area and under the left flipper.

#1430 4 years ago
Quoted from Mateo777:

populated twilight playfield for bout $1000

I think the fact that all the wiring is gone, is a deal breaker. Maybe there is a TZ out there that already has the items listed above and needs a populated playfield, but I would not start with that.

Spend that cash on a better camera.

2 weeks later
#1452 4 years ago
Quoted from PjM:

Where do I find the top(lid) for the gumball machine. I am missing it. Thanks.


Maybe just go to the grocery store and buy a jar of something with a similar red cap, if your not that fussy.

1 month later
#1517 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Does anyone else have a hard-plastic protective top over your main ramp switch?

Nope, no cover or holes for a cover. Looks like another difference with your early machine.

What is that yellow plastic under it? I have red.

#1519 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

red over the lock and that whiteblue outline map in the upper right corner

OK, that part is the same. If you get bored, you can think of some fun way to decorate that plastic cover (without modifying it, since it is unique.)

#1521 4 years ago

Some would say it is worth the value of a nice TZ, minus the cost to repair it.

That being said, nobody wants to pay a lot for a project. They can roughly estimate what is costs to fix, however some fixes are not as easy as they appear, and other issues will probably be found once the initial items are fixed on a 23yr old pin that has not been maintained. Projects sell well at auction, but they get a cut.

Maybe $3200 as is, but shopped and repaired, you could get a decent price.

#1524 4 years ago

Wow, that black on black armor looks great!

1 week later
#1591 4 years ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

right loop "ball grabber" drops the ball and it rolls slightly upwards, the left spiral magnet will catch it.

Is the playflied angle set to 6.5 degrees?

Maybe the magnet is recessed and the ball is just sticking in the depression. (maybe during ball search, the magnet is fired, and that shakes it loose) If you try with the glass off, when you hit the right ramp, can you confirm the magnet is on?

#1614 4 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Then I light gumball and try to make the shot. I get around the orbit and it just keeps going

There is a diverter that sends the ball over to the gumball machine VUK called 'gumball diverter'. Use test 4 (solenoid), number 6 -repeat. You will hear it open/close in the test and if you stand on the right side of the game and look between the ramps, you can see it flip.

If that works, then the switch in the right orbit must not be working. It tells it to open when the ball is coming from the right. Do a switch test to confirm.

1 week later
#1664 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

missing artwork?

The plastic from my 6/93 TZ has the same white area printed on the left side as that one. Two differences I see are that the blue used on mine is much darker (mine looks dark blue, yours looks sky blue), and mine has no part number printed at the bottom.

I assume mine is original, since it is warped and filthy. I got my busted/filthy TZ in a 2-fer deal last summer, so it has been sitting, waiting for the cold weather to start shopping. I spent last night cleaning metal ball guides, and the night before that on subways. I will be putting up high scores in a few more weeks/months.

#1683 4 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

what's this ramp about?

Seems like it would show things down a bit. Info here:


1 week later
#1697 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

weird "carriage" problem

How does it feel mechanically? With the power off, hold the rod that pulls it down. You should be able to push it down against the spring with medium resistance, and the spring should pop it back up freely. Maybe the coil sleeve is binding up, or the pin that the carriage pivots on is binding up. Maybe the coil bracket under the playfield came loose, and it is misaligned.

If not a mechanical issue, maybe one of the coil wires are not soldered on securely. You can test the coil electronically in the menu 'T-test' -> '#4 solenoid test' -> '#5 R.Ramp Diverter' - select repeat, and it should activate over and over.

#1737 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

My ramp diverter (carriage?) still Doesn't work.

I was just putting mine together and noticed that the moving the mini PF around applies torque to the rod for the carriage, and makes the tilt movement tight. I moved the mini PF position until the carriage tilted easily by hand.

It could also be that your rod is bent and applying torque which is binding it.

2 weeks later
#1819 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

lower right flipper power coil now is drawing 5.5a

I assume that means when pressing the flipper button. I have never put a current clamp on one. I wonder what the other flipper measures when flipping.

#1822 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

New coils (got two, so I could have a spare, now..) and new driver chips are on the way

While waiting for parts you could ring out the all the coil wires to ground, and to each other -

Unplug J902 and J907 from the fliptronic2 board, which totally disconnects the 4 flipper coils.

Measure resistance between a lug of each flipper coil and the cabinet ground and confirm it is open. (no shorts to ground or other components in the harness)

Measure resistance between a lug of each flipper coil to a lug on the the other flipper coils and confirm it is open. Check all 4 that way. (no shorts between coils in the harness)

1 week later
#1863 3 years ago

The powerball is supposed to be white?? I like the patina on mine.

I have been telling guests that it's a 'marble', but ceramic would be correct.

1 week later
#1896 3 years ago

Often the ball kicker on my TZ kicks the ball out of the trough, and the ball hits the post and bounces back in to the trough, and repeats until it finally it lands at the plunger after a bunch of tries.

Any experience with adjusting this??

#1899 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Adjust the side angle of the ball trough shooter lane guide.

Yup, gave the shooter lane ball rail a little extra bend. That did it. Thanks.

#1910 3 years ago

Right, BW DMD games with 3 coin slots were export games. My Fish Tales is the same, and still has the German instruction cards and individual slots for 1DM, 2DM and 5DM coins.

Re imports can have lots of hacks, heavy wear, bad cabinets, etc.

Bottom line.. As usual, don't trust photos when buying a pin. You have to see the game for yourself. That is the only way to confirm the condition/value.

#1921 3 years ago

That sounds great!

I don't bother with plastic protectors on any of my games, just large nylon washers in certain spots like the front of the slings. I guess if I had something super rare, and no plastics could be found at any price, then I would.

#1956 3 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I'd say the yellow on the printing of the main cab was jacked up

I notice the sun is a white circle between the letters T and Z in the last photo. On my cab, that is almost all yellow, with just a thin section of white at the horizon, but it might be the lights in that room, etc.

In the end, I would not stress about it myself, but maybe the merchant would give you a bit of a refund or credit if you brought it to their attention.

1 week later
#1970 3 years ago

That would make this the third revival. Here is a short history if you don't want to read all the wiki pages:

The story of the accident that occurred while making the TZ film was interesting. I remember hearing about that when the film came out in the 80s, but did not know the details.


#2011 3 years ago
Quoted from NathB:

Thirdly how many balls should one credit give me? At the moment I get four for one credit but should it be three?

Welcome to the Twilight Zone!

Standard pinball has been 3 balls since the end of the EM era. Manufactures pushed that on operators to increase revenue across the board.

TZ is one of the games with the extra ball button, which I could never resist, and set a bunch of 4 ball high scores. I disabled the EB button and just set it to 4 balls for consistency on my TZ.

#2043 3 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

Joined the club today. I am sure I will be combing through this thread in depth soon!

Nice looking TZ, congrats! I'm always in too much of a rush to get a pin home to remember to get pics of the trip.

1 week later
#2086 3 years ago
Quoted from Djude:

the rod that controls the ball drop mech on top of the ramp to the Battle the Power appears to be broken

You get one for a few bucks + shipping...


1 week later
#2107 3 years ago

Where does that connector go?

EDIT - OK now I see, it goes to that 4 pin connector.

#2136 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

they left the f**king "I" out of the cut

DOH. I didn't even notice! The name is probably trademarked.


1 week later
#2151 3 years ago

When I got my TZ, the balls were stuck in the upper right 'robot shot' multiball lock. A part was laying in there, blocking them. Take a look around, and all will be revealed.

Maybe the slot machine kickout has an issue, or the VUK for the gumball machine does. The subways are clear, so when you stand the playfield up, you can see any issues.

2 weeks later
#2246 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

So... maybe lifting the pf & messing around caused the difference.

The powerball sensor position adjustment is critical, and often the connector there can have cold solder joints.

#2253 3 years ago

Back to your original question. No, there is no reason the power ball should kick out of the slot machine any different after plunging it, than the other balls.

If you go to switch test mode and plunge it in, does it trigger the slot machine kicker switch like a standard ball?

1 month later
#2458 3 years ago
Quoted from Timmah:

Problem #8: The extra ball button was a disaster.

Get a new one for $7.55


#2459 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

I have an issue with the slot machine scoop breaking the plastic above it when hit hard with a ball.

Is there a broken weld, letting the top of the scoop flex if you push up on it?

#2473 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

When I switch the machine on the clock lancets keep rotating.

Do the optos all appear to be working in the test mode, showing the time counting?

#2488 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

press them in for better fit..seemed to work for about 10 minutes

Reflow the solder on the connector pins (header) on the board where they attach.

#2520 3 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Also you can look at the inserts on the mini playfield - they line up color-wise with the pops.

I have seen that statement many times, but don't agree. Mine was Red,Yellow, and Amber at the bottom when I got it, like pinball arcade. Also the original Bally flyer is that way.

I feel it is more aesthetically pleasing with the Yellow in the upper right. (breaking up the similar red/amber side by side)

We need Pat to settle this!

#2522 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:


The parts list does show the yellow at the bottom and amber in upper right.

#2527 3 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Does anyone know why LEDs would slightly dim when flippers are used?

Probably failing caps in the power supply circuit they are connected to.

1 week later
#2614 3 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Does anyone have an extra TZ speaker panel.

www.pinballsearch.com found some:


#2683 3 years ago
Quoted from wizard_mode:

I got a weak mini flipper. Seems like it intermittently lags the main flipper as well. I tried cleaning the flipper board opto switch but I am still having the issue (this fixed the issue on my Judge Dredd so I tried it on TZ). Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Swap the left and right flipper button opto board as a test. They are identical, and you can see if the issue swaps to the upper right flipper.
Marco has the dual opto flipper boards in stock for $20 each if needed.

#2702 3 years ago
Quoted from wizard_mode:

So, are there actually 2 optos on the board?

Yes, 2 optos. That allows you press the flipper button lightly and hold the lower flipper up and press the rest of the way to operate the upper flipper, which is handy for trapping balls with the lower while using the upper flipper in multiball, although not easy.

#2704 3 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

do you see anything wrong?

Your ramp looks like it is attached to the upper PF correctly.

1 month later
#2955 3 years ago

Stole the day-glow plastic marbles out of a kids game called Tumble. They add some much needed color in my opinion.

IMG_2109 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#3004 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Could someone confirmed which fuse controls the right side GI?

Fuse 106 through 110 are for GI and located in the lower left area of the driver board. That should narrow it down.

#3019 3 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

pinduino driving a strip of addressable LEDs on the plastic ramp

Nice mod!! Compared to the other pins in my lineup, TZ seems to be lacking some pizazz. Those interactive lights are just the ticket!

#3060 3 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Second problem that has happened before. ( I don't think it is a result of changing out the clock board) I now get F1,F3,F5, F7 EOS flipper error. The game shuts down when I press one or both flippers.

I hate coincidences. Disconnect the cables going to the clock and give it a test. (you can even disable the clock in the settings so you don't see clock errors when testing unplugged)

1 week later
#3066 3 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

Twilight zone kicker problem

As you noted - the times when it shoots out weak, it is not all the way against the kicker arm.

Is the game level, side to side and at a 6.5deg pitch?

Does the switch have too much spring, not allowing the ball to settle? (sometimes they get gunky and stiff, which holds up the ball, and the switch needs to be replaced)

There appears to be some divet there, which is not helping. You may need to repair that also. (see threads here about repairing scoop hole wear)

To remove the coil sleeve, you have to remove the coil from the bracket, and the sleeve will come out the back side. (it may be very tight, indicating it is deformed. If the new sleeve will not go in, you need to replace the coil)

#3068 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

or get a rocket kicker protector from Cliffy

That's a good idea!

3 weeks later
#3129 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

my rocket plastic snapped.

I bought one of those last year. The quality was good on these:


1 month later
#3295 2 years ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

I use 3 led and 4 SMD from there in my games. The ablaze 1 LEDs are real dim, at least the concave clear ones I got were. I never tried frosted.

Right, comet has a lot of strange options. Don't end up with something too dim!!

1 week later
#3358 2 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

I'm just going to get some nice semi-gloss black vehicle wrap

I used this on my FT, which is enough for 4 legs:
5ft x 1ft (5 Sq/ft) Avery SW900 Supreme Gloss Orange Vinyl Car Wrap Film


I am thinking of doing my TZ legs in white.

2 weeks later
#3397 2 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

1smd non-ghosting from Comet will do you good.

You might find 1smd is not bright enough, but try it out.

1 week later
#3454 2 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

6.5 degree PF with the rear Levelers extended all the way and the fronts bottomed out

Same here.

Three leg holes. Use the bottom two leg holes front and rear.

#3474 2 years ago
Quoted from TZpinboter:

All the legs on my TZ are the same length and I am pretty sure there are only two holes for each

Mine has 3 holes for each leg and large bolt plates with 3 holes that can be seen from inside. Maybe your bolt plates were worn and swapped with standard ones or maybe your cab was swapped and decaled.

#3551 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

my TZ is much more prone to SDTM when the ball comes from up above...

Avoid the clock target between the ramps to reduce the SDTM.

#3622 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Toothpick is aligned with the hole on the outside of the rubber! No good?

It should be aligned with the inside of the rubber. You should move it down.

#3629 2 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

the metal part of that one hole on mine is raised, im concernd its damaging the balls, how would I push it back into the playfield more so its flush ?

Yes, it is just a roll pin. Push it down.

#3670 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

When I lite spiral, and I shoot it into the lane, the ball stick to the magnet, but then it just hangs there. I have to give the machine a little nudge, and then the ball starts rolling down. Any ideas?

If you set the ball there, you may notice either the ball is magnetized or the metal core is not level with the playfield. You can easily adjust the height of those and replace them when too beat up and gouged.

Quoted from Damien:

I took the bolt out and tried in another leg hole, and it held. So looks like it's the bracket.
Would I need to get one of these to replace: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=144
Looks like there is a ground screwed attached to one of the screws on the current bracket as well. Can anyone confirm.

Yes, those get stripped and sometimes need replacement, and yes the each plate has a ground attached or routed behind it for safety. You might want to grab some bolts too if you notice any wear on the threads of yours.

#3674 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

How would you suggest testing the magnet?

I mean - test the balls there and see if they stick with the power off, meaning they are magnetized.

Also, check if the metal core is level with the playfield, or if there is a ridge there.

1 week later
#3819 2 years ago

Noticed the same thing on my TZ - There is a bit of pucker around the legs like decals!?!

Did some searching..

Turns out the BW cabs of the 90's were 'primed' with white vinyl, and then silk screened. That is why they are prone to fade and leave white marks when scratched.



#3908 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

The scratch *appears* to only be in the clear. However, because of the art there (the white and black line art), it's really hard to tell.

You can confirm in the play field repair thread. I believe that rubbing naphtha on the clear will confirm if the damage is the clear coat or the paint. (Naphtha briefly hides cracks in clear, and not in paint.)

#3918 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

only in the clear?

Example -

Also - Make sure keep your new PF waxed with carnauba wax. Wax literally works like a shield layer for the clear coat and paint.

#3961 2 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

I don't have any cables to hook it up.

Looks like that connector is just used for power. That link shows a little inline power splitter for it. That is probably installed in your TZ if you take a look. Maybe under the PF or tucked under a plastic on the top side. Check the upper playfield area top and bottom.

1 week later
#4026 2 years ago
Quoted from Player1:

powerball stuck in the piano from time to time

Maybe some screw or other part fell in there and is laying in the subway, causing the ball to get stuck occasionally.

#4041 2 years ago
Quoted from DruTheFu:

one of the 4 switches not register?

It looks like one wire is not soldered on!!

solder (resized).jpg

#4047 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Today is the day!
Joined the club!

Welcome! How did you get that in there?

#4055 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

It had blown Fuse F112 on the power driver board. I replaced that with a 7A SB, and then when I tried to restart it blew the line filter fuse.

If you pull F112 out, does the line fuse still blow when you test turning it on?

2 weeks later
#4215 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

remove the balls from the gumball machine

Test -> 15 -> empty -> [enter]

to empty the trough:
Test -> 4 -> 9 -> repeat

#4270 2 years ago

Yeah, I doubt all 4 optos died at once. They get weak before failing, and not all at once.

The cable goes to the left flipper board and then goes on the right board. Is the left flipper board getting 5v? Are the opto output signals changing at the board when you press the button?

#4295 2 years ago
Quoted from hockeymag8:

Or was that just a fluke

Yup, likely when you worked on the coil, that cable for the start/coindoor buttons is getting jostled and working on/off. Maybe a cold solder joint on a header.

#4308 2 years ago

I like it noisy. I used to think vol 8 was good for B/W pins, but with multiple in the same room and not wanting to drive out my guests, I have turned them down to 7, which is still pretty noisy with them all playing at once.

#4331 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

How much does a nice HUO usually run?

Depends on condition, and if you can find a deal.

Boston Pinball tracks Ebay sales. In the last year, seven sold on Ebay for an average of $7839 each. That is similar to retail price.

The Pinside price listed is $5550 - $6450. I consider that a good reference price for one in good condition when buying from a private seller.

#4361 2 years ago

The Sparky Pop Bumper Enhancement looks sweet, and you could probably make something similar with holographic glitter paper from the craft store. Would be a nice project for the kids.

#4392 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

For the clock board, get Ingo's (no brainer)!

My original clock board also had some burn from the bulbs and clock errors. Cleaning up the connectors corrected the clock errors.

Since my board worked, I installed white LEDs and resistors in place of the bulbs and diodes, and have been running with my original clock board for a year without issue and I saved some cash. Just FYI.

1 month later
#4562 2 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeTechNerd:

And all looked good for the first week or so, but then the return of the random 'Clock is broken' error.

If your getting a clock error, I would expect you would see the flakey opto in the clock test. You could then ring out the wires with a meter to confirm or eliminate any bad connection. The cables/connections should show a solid low resistance. Beyond that, measure the opto output voltage level.

It could even be something as simple as the clock hand not quite blocking the opto. Some have needed to extend the flag part of the clock hand with a bit of black tape folded over.

#4563 2 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeTechNerd:

That's going to require a deft touch! Be kinda curious how many have actually mastered that technique.

If you watch TZ and other 4 flipper games played in big tournaments, you can see examples of staging where they trap with the lower flipper while simultaneously flipping the upper flipper.

It's typically done by holding the button in partially with the middle finger and then pressing it in fully with the pointer finger, while keeping the middle finger in position. It takes a steadier hand than mine.

#4573 2 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeTechNerd:

I wish! Been staring at the clock test screen until I'm cross-eyed and don't see it,

So you can run the clock forward and backward in test mode and time counts correctly?

If you stop the clock and watch the switch test mode, and tap on the clock, connectors, and cables, no switch fires?

2 weeks later
#4645 2 years ago
Quoted from Bronty:

I found a small locknut in the middle of the playfield. I think its from the red plastic area near the gumball machine.

The only small nuts that are visible in that area are the 2 that hold down the plastic on the right of the gumball machine, and the 2 that hold the skinny plastic in front of that with the picture of the quarter on it.

Just store that spare nut in the coinbox. That's what its for.

#4671 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

that's pretty much what my game looks like, which I thought was really faded. Maybe I am wrong

UV light fades the red to pink or orange initially, and other colors over time, leaving the blue like above. If your gumball machine is red on the side of the cab, then I say there is minimal or no fade.

You can also compare the reds on the left and right sides, since one side always seems to get more sun than the other, if there is fade.

1 week later
#4698 2 years ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

Will probably grab a rottendog today unless someone has suggestions.

Dip q-tips in vinegar and wipe off the acid, then use q-tips with water to remove the vinegar.

The vinegar neutralizes the acid and then the water removes the vinegar. If the components aren't damaged, just clean it up, let it dry, and then test it.

In my case, half of my CPU board was covered with acid, and I could see some fine cracks in traces when holding a light behind it, and they measured open with my merter, so I swapped it.

Remove the battery holder to clean around it, and you can go with a remote holder or NVRAM later. With no batteries, the pin will still boot up. (just open the coin door and press enter to clear the error when powering on)

one other note - you can buy the rotten dog board without the CPU/ROM/ASIC chips, you need to buy an ASIC chip puller tool.

#4719 2 years ago

I had to bend the flap on mine, but kept the rubber.

2 months later
#4905 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Scrolling through Craigslist ads

Hate seeing faded cabs! BAM has cabinet decals in stock.

1 month later
#4993 2 years ago

Don't forget the mini PF.

3 weeks later
#5055 2 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

my translite is quite brown

When I have a discolored translite, I wipe down the white back side with a rag and simple green. Not sure that is the best method, but it takes off the discoloration and greasy fingerprints without any damage in my experience. (I use cool white in the back box.)

#5157 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

and when I lifted my TAF PF up, I realized that I ain't got the skills (and the guts) to disassemble/reassemble all the mechs

Go for it! Take photos as you go and dive in. Plenty of folks here to help if needed, or if something goes wrong. (better to practice on a working pin, than a broken pin, since you can assume if it stops working, just recheck what you touched)

#5164 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

Do mods make a difference ? I was wondering if a few led mods might cause a change...

Yes, but LEDs draw less than bulbs, so not much.

Quoted from BallyWilliams:

Also I noticed this while poking about...any ideas why these connectors have brown marks?

J120 and J121 are GI connectors that draw a lot of current and got hot and have burned over the years. (playfield, backbox, coindoor, topper) The connector and the header (part it plugs in to) need to be replaced. Switching to LED GI bulbs would draw less in the future.

#5247 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Heat output, power consumption and lifespan. I do try to keep it as natural looking as possible.

And protecting GI J120/J121 connectors as well as more illumination!

3 weeks later
#5420 2 years ago
Quoted from joey__p__1966:

How to keep the wood from continuing to give and possible crack . Washer on top and bottom? Anyone make a protector for this? Brace for this post? Anyone know of anything made specifically for this metal post? Edited spelling

A screw in post that is loose is repaired by filling the hole with bamboo sticks and wood glue, and then screwing the post in to the filled hole.

You are asking about a post with a nut under the playfield. It seems like adding washers would only give it a pivot point and not secure it.

Maybe jam some thin bamboo along side the post as you push the post in to the playfield to make it tight.

#5447 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

The right one feels noticeably more powerful than the left and I thought it was wrong but the manual says 15411 is the right coil.

Also, dirty or failing flipper button optos will cause weak flipper issues. Try giving those a clean and swapping the two opto boards.

1 week later
1 month later
#5594 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

what is a good price for machine in good working order with minimal wear?

Pinside has a info page for each game. The TZ page shows $5640 - $6560. I consider that a fair price for a working machine in good condition from a local. (condition is key!)


A pinball retailer selling a nice working machine with a warranty would be well above that, and Ebay prices are above the market value also.

#5606 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

It is not exactly easy to go to an arcade and find these things anymore?

Check the pinball map whenever you're on vacation or traveling. I would also recommend traveling to any pinball shows in your region to try a lot of pins.

You can also get a feel for the pins in pinball arcade. It is not exactly like the real thing, but it helps me identify those that annoy me and I would not want in my collection.

1 week later
#5670 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

popping out 2 balls in the shooter lane

Trough switches OK?

#5672 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

How many balls are supposed to be in the trough?

There could be any number in the trough, depending if you lock one or two balls, but there should only be one in the shooter lane.

#5684 1 year ago

Youssi strikes again...

IMG_5241 (resized).JPG

#5700 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

My slot machine kickout, for example, is like returning a pro tennis serve. Played on another TZ at the weekend that had a much gentler and consistent kickout

My slot machine does not kick out too hard. Normally the ball goes straight to the right flipper and dead bounces to the left flipper for an easy trap. Occasionally a ball kicks out and hits the sling before getting to the right flipper. Those will usually bounce off the right flipper and drain if I don't hold up the right flipper to get control. I confirmed my scoop welds are good.

I see my kicker has an adjustment screw at the back of the armature, and not the rubber grommet shown in the parts list. Using a rubber would make the armature sit so far back that a ball would not hit the switch for the kicker. It seems adjusting that would not only insure the ball sits on the switch, but could back up the armature a little to give it more power.

How hard should it normally kick out??

FYI - I see mantis has reinforced scoops in stock.

#5709 1 year ago

Mine is upper holes in front, and lower in back to get 6.5deg with the back feet raised like all my other pins. Compared to my other pins, that's normally where the legs attach to the cabinet, but TZ is the only pin with extra holes that I have.

2 weeks later
#5803 1 year ago

I have to admit that I have not made it to lost in the zone in over a year and have not been reaching 1 billion in a game, even though I play TZ at home and in tournaments a lot. I changed up my strategy yesterday.

Normally when the ball is on the left flipper, I go for the robot lock shot to keep in practice on that tight shot. I consider it safer than shooting at the right orbit or slot machine. Yesterday I played some games, shooting the right orbit more often, and viola! Made it to LITZ twice with two games >1.5 billion points each.

#5806 1 year ago
Quoted from alexanr1:

Twilight zone pinball machine AS-IS local pickup only

Says 'great condition' but from the 4 poor photos you can see the left side of the back box looks bad, the lock down bar has bolts through it, and the playfield is grimy. You could do better.

1 week later
#5834 1 year ago

Marco has flipper opto boards for TZ also. The set I got from them have been working great.


1 week later
#5854 1 year ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Can't wait to add some goodies. Color DMD, update the game rom (9.4home is the best for it?), Cliffiy protectors, (all wood is in perfect condition) Game Blades, Gum balls, and a better LED treatment. Glad to be part of the TZ owners! This one I think will be a keeper for a long time!
I've seen some manuals on-line they are different then the one that came with the game. Is this a different version?
Is there any must have mods for TZ other then the ones I've listed? Lemme know thanks!

Scroll through the image gallery of this tread for mod ideas. I would start and the last page and work forward for a while and see what catches your eye.

1 week later
#5884 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Also, is it normal for GI not to dim at all in test mode

GI LED flicker when dimming in my B/W pins, so I turn the dimming off. (LED are low power already)

#5915 1 year ago

Seems like 3 magnet would be much cooler, and more valuable if the time comes to move it. If you don't like the third magnet, you could just leave it disabled and have a non functioning core there, so I don't see any down side.

#5925 1 year ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

1.tested wall outlet shows above 115v at all times

I believe resets are mostly 5v supply issues or issues with the ribbon cable connection supplying the voltage to the CPU board, but that is not a bad idea to check the voltage at the outlet, but maybe your outlet or breaker box does not have a tight connection. Does the voltage drop when playing?

#5942 1 year ago
Quoted from mettle64:

I have no idea how to price it. Any ideas?

Their interactive pyramid topper is $275.

2 weeks later
#6011 1 year ago

Of all the color DMD I have seen, TWD is my favorite. I like the brightness and fit of LED, but some have pointed out the large gaps between dots is odd.

1 month later
#6055 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

GI lamps for my clock are still dead.

Maybe all the little bulbs in the clock are blown. Check them with a meter.

If you have the original clock board like me, you can swap the old bulbs and diodes for little white LEDs and resistors and keep it cooler in there.

#6070 1 year ago

Noticed the robot lock kickout was firing occasionally while in attract mode. In switch test mode, I saw the entire column of switches 81-87 blink off and on a few times. Thought I fixed it by reseating the connectors on the 10-swicth opto board, but it returned.

Removed the board from under the playfield and reflowed headers and noticed the 100uF 30v electrolytic cap (C1) there was leaking. Removed that and noticed the trace under it was cracked from the capacitor gunk. Cleaned it up, repaired the trace, and swapped the cap. I expect that resolved it.

Keep an eye out for that cap on the 10-switch opto board for leaks. Mine looked like a small grease stain around it and some corrosion on the metal bracket next to it.

IMG_5688 (resized).JPG

IMG_5689 (resized).JPG

1 month later
#6346 1 year ago
Quoted from McSquid:

This one is ugly, dirty, bent, broken, and incomplete, but its mine.

… and termite eaten! Good luck with it. Hopefully it will be looking like the shinny TZ posted above it soon.

#6352 1 year ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Thanks, I don't know the signs of termites. Do you see evidence of them? Where?

You can see lots of examples in this thread:


You can see where they have eaten away some layers of the playfield here making it weak and spongy, and it has been broken away. The damage to the cabinet is probably more of the same. Probably why the wood rail is missing too.

termite (resized).jpg

#6393 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

The consensus was that they eat batteries.

Yup, my FT has a rottendog CPU board and new batteries die in less than 2yrs and you get the reset message. Sometimes settings are lost, sometimes they are not.

3 weeks later
#6481 1 year ago

No post there on my TZ, and I seldom get a bounce out. One thing I often recommend when things behave oddly is make sure you pin is level.

3 weeks later
#6590 1 year ago

I'm still using my original clock boards. I think the main issue with optos is that the transmitters get dim over time with use, but at home they get minimal use, and should keep going.

2 weeks later
#6636 1 year ago
Quoted from Madmax541:

My TZ rocket launcher causes the ball to hit wire rail.
Is there washers or something to tilt launcher eliminating air balls?

You can adjust the guide under the rocket plastic to aim the ball at the hitchhiker shot. It is adjustable and sometimes gets knocked out of alignment.

1 week later
#6677 1 year ago
Quoted from RVH:

where to buy the steel mounting bracket?

I don't see A-15893 opto board mtg. bracket for sale anywhere using the pinball parts search.

You could start a want to buy tread. No doubt someone has spares on a parts pin.

#6732 1 year ago

All my pins are 6.5deg. Do you have the longer type - 3 inch leg levelers in the back?

#6745 1 year ago
Quoted from BigE:

Now, no booting evident on DMD and get a “humming” that I didn’t notice before.

Recheck all the connectors, I think it is possible to get them out of align by one pin, etc.

#6750 1 year ago
Quoted from starslugger27:

I just installed the color DMD monitor on my TZ, but when I turned on the machine, none of the flippers work. I am not sure what happened or what to do. I appreciate any help. Happy Holidays!

Some easy stuff to try..
Coin door closed?
Do the flipper buttons work in the switch test menu?
Do the flippers flip in the coil test menu?
Fuses OK on the driver board and fliptronics board?
Unplug the data cable to the color DMD and test, anything improve?

2 weeks later
#6764 1 year ago
Quoted from MMP:

I want to find a way to brighten that up. Wondering if a light strip would work.

I agree TZ is a bit dark all around. When I shopped mine, I replaced all the GI bulbs with cool white frosted LED, and am happy with that look, leaving the inserts incandescent. There are plenty of more expensive mod solutions as well. Gumball machine light mod, door insert flasher upgrade, ramp light shows, backbox color changers, and pin stadium.

#6767 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Smoke ramp? Mine has a clear ramp but I thought that was the original color. What’s smoke look like?

Marco sells a clear plastic ramp. My original TAF and TZ ramps are tinted gray.

2 weeks later
#6791 1 year ago
Quoted from Ijpinball:

My new twilight zone

YAHGHH!! The pinball horror pics thread is here..


1 month later
#6904 11 months ago
Quoted from koops:

Awesome! Thank you very much!

I can see from the photo, mine goes higher when looking at where his aligns with the artwork, but I don't have my flipper aligned all the way back to the align pin. Lots of variables when checking that.

#6930 11 months ago
Quoted from Ben38:

If I do that, the ball coming from the right orbit or from the diverter, will hurt every time the rubber that stand between the hitchhiker lane and the camera line. And bounce toward the right slingshot (or sometimes the right outlane... )
Not yours?

Make sure your playfield is level.

#6937 11 months ago
Quoted from Ben38:

Yours don't do that? If you send a ball in the right orbit, and don't catch it with the upper left flipper, where arrive the ball?
Left flipper, sdtm, right flipper?

My angle is 6.5 on all my pins. A fast shot around the right orbit will follow the ball guide and go past the UL flipper and head toward the lower right flipper.

You can probably adjust the position of the upper left ball guide if yours needs it.

1 week later
#6965 11 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

What are people using for Mylar replacement for the playfield?

You don't need to mylar the playfield for a pin in home use, just clean and wax it occasionally.

1 week later
#6974 10 months ago
Quoted from 2pupPinz:

Lol! Thought about that too, except buried in it...DIB. Dead in Box

Funeral plans already checked off!

002 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#6991 10 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

my game have started to randomly decrease the sound volume

When weird things occur like this, reseat the ribbon cables in the backbox and see if it clears up.

1 week later
#7012 10 months ago
Quoted from BenB:

Is this resister supposed to be here mounted here?

Not present on mine.

Possibly added to reduce the high frequency sound from that tweeter, or maybe minimize some high frequency noise?

1 week later
#7049 9 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

I'm experiencing a weird bug lately. During some games, the Power "Hahaha" sound starts playing even when random switches not tied to The Power are hit. I first noticed this after a BTP multiball mode: Even after the mode was over, the "Haha" played every time the Right Flipper was hit. This happened again today. I am using the 9.4 ROM and have since I got this game in 2006, but I have not noticed this before. Is it a known bug, or something more sinister?
Thanks. I tried searching but might have been using the wrong keywords.

Some glitches can be sorted out by reseating the ribbon cables in the back box.

#7063 9 months ago

Here is some good TZ trivia from the local bar trivia night: Who are the 3 people that have hosted the Twilight Zone?

I guessed 2 right.

1 week later
#7088 9 months ago

I have cleaned the back of my FT and TZ translights with a damp cloth to remove some of the dingy brown staining with no issue. I found light cleaning was not an issue on mine.

#7095 9 months ago
Quoted from JFink8222:

Any suggestions for weak upper flippers? I’ve changed the sleeves and everything flows smoothly. However they are extremely weak and lagging. Should I just completely change out the coils? All else works perfect

Sometimes dirty flipper button optos can be the cause of weak flippers, and each flipper has its own opto. They need to put out a solid off/on signal.

#7102 9 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

If I can replace a part cheaply and get things working right quickly, I am going to do that.

That makes sense, but keep in mind that sometimes the issue is that they just need cleaning, and you can also swap them around to left or right, or with another pin and see if anything changes.

#7123 9 months ago

It is a common issue on TZ that the ball guide sometimes needs to be bent a little like shown above to resolve kickout issues. (It has been documented many times in this tread.)

2 weeks later
#7180 8 months ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

The red wire on the right was just kinda jammed into what looked like a disc capacitor when i took this thing out, but it's no longer there, and i doubt it's the way its supposed to be.

That was your thermistor.



#7194 8 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Its weird that the tests don't work, but it works just fine in game.

Whenever I see weird stuff, I re-seat all the ribbon cables and test again.

1 week later
#7242 7 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Should I aim to activate a magnet when the ball is above it to "suck it down" and get a higher speed rebound up and hope it will be enough to reach the upper hole?

That's how I play it. You get extra switch hits and the ball heads for the top which is the object.

1 month later
#7337 6 months ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Anyone have a spare lamp board A-16514? For the inserts near the slot machine entrance?

Probably best to start a "want to buy" thread, and someone with parts machines may see it.

I did a search for 5768-13496-00 and found the same lamp board is used on BSD, so mention that in your WTB thread.

2 weeks later
#7365 6 months ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Is this tab to the left of the U supposed to be straight out like this

Yes, straight out. It attaches on top of the metal that protects the wood rail of the shooter lane.

2 weeks later
#7383 5 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

When I boot up TZ lately, the game always auto-launches a ball around the orbit as is if it were trying to load the gumball machine. The ball then rolls around the orbit and into the center drain and everything goes on as normal.

I don't have experience with that, but it sounds like it is incorrectly sensing a 4th ball in the trough (switch 25), and when it kicks a ball in to the auto-shooter, it then senses the switch for ball 3 (switch 17) not activated so it knows there are then 2 balls in the trough, and returns it to the trough. Is switch 25 working reliably in the switch test?

Switch 65 is the two targets next to the piano, wired in parallel. Are both working OK in the switch test and neither bent where there is no gap?

Untitled (resized).jpg

1 month later
#7498 4 months ago
Quoted from Binger:

In test mode the clock just runs forward. Using +/- buttons does not slow down or change direction of clock. In fact dmd says clock not running— yet it is. Optos are not registering to change the time.

The motor and clock optos have nothing in common, except they share the same connector on the power driver board. Maybe your connector is off by a pin or in the wrong spot? Actually the manual mentions they go the "8-Driver board in the backbox" so check connections there too.

Regarding motor forward/reverse -

The clock is operated through a D.C. Motor Control Board, pt #A-16120, (located UNDER the playfield at approximately the same position as the clock) and solenoid drives 42 and 43 (located on the 8-Driver Board in the backbox). With only drive 43 turned ON, the clock moves forward. With only drive 42 turned ON, the clock moves in reverse. With both drives ON, or both drives OFF, the clock is stopped.

You can see the motor driver board on page 3-22 of the manual and DIR/1 and DIR/2 signals go to diodes D2 and D3 (the side of the diode with the line), so you could use a meter and check those in test mode to see if they are working as described above or not. (one on and the other off for forward and swapped for reverse)

#7516 4 months ago

I think the Main Mutltiball Jackpot and Powerball Multiball Jackpot use the same sound in the pin, but that is another thing to keep in mind. When you get secondary jackpots, are those the same sounds or more intense?

If I'm following.. Pinball arcade has funny jackpot sounds and likely someone stripped the sound files from there or found the files stripped from there and used them for one of the pinsound orchestrations?

I played the videos several times but am not sure I hear the difference. I guess the normal sound is higher pitched and the funny sound is similar but lower pitched??

#7538 4 months ago
Quoted from McSquid:

My pop bumper lamps are all significantly different brightnesses.

Have you swapped the bulbs around just to test those?

#7540 4 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

OCD LED is only for the insert lamps only. Should have nothing to do with GI lamps.

Pops are controlled, not GI.

#7553 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Lifting the playfield on my TZ is challenging.

Haven't noticed issues with mine. The toughest one I have is Data East Jurassic Park. No service rails. Tuff to get out and lift, and tuff to lower and shove back.

#7574 4 months ago

That being said, after shopping the TZ I found (~3yrs ago), I just cleaned up the clock connections, oiled the gears, and replaced the little burned out bulbs with LEDS, and my clock is working since.

No opto has an infinite life, but my originals should be fine for home use, however I did swap my flipper opto boards for new since I didn't want to wonder if they were causing any weak flipper issue, after experiencing one bad one.

#7577 4 months ago

Looks great. That flying streaming rig is interesting. It must be tricky with the bundle of cords.

2 weeks later
#7618 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I turned on my TZ this morning to check something, and whilst the Grand Champion score was right, the other ones were default scores.

The high scores are cleared by default every 1500 games or so by default. That is a setting.

#7642 3 months ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

With all of the magnets already in game, wont these mods increase magnetism on the balls?

Inexpensive carbon-steel balls are the ones that don't magnetize. I use the cheap ones from Marco, and they have never magnetized in years of use in my TZ, TAF, Metallica, and LotR.

3 weeks later
#7696 89 days ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

There is an adjustment at the rocket that controls how the ball is aimed.

Yes, there is a ball guide that you can easily move to aim the ball shooting out of the rocket kicker.

1 week later
#7705 78 days ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Anyone know where to get a plastic set for TZ?

I see www.pinball.center sells various pieces.

1 month later
#7785 47 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thx. Once I find a TZ I’ll grab it!

These get my vote. They extend the playfields design and colors up the sides of the cab.


1 week later
#7806 38 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Nice. Did you put lights under all the star posts?


#7827 37 days ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

I left the machine off for a little while and when I turned it back on the game went straight into a reboot.

Reseating the connectors is a good idea. If you want to diagnose it further, measure the 5v level on the CPU board to verify you have a 5v issue.

#7846 36 days ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

My game is missing parts of the coin op mechanism and appears to be only a "free play" machine per the software. Is this the way they came or did someone strip out part of the coin mechanism?

The 'coin mechs' are removed, and are easy to replace if you want to use quarters. A previous owner kept them, probably because they were special mechs for the tokens they used.

I believe 9.2 is standard ROM so you can select freeplay or coin-op.

#7906 31 days ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

direction the batteries go

All 3 are positive pointing up.

#7913 29 days ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

At times the ball gets stuck on the left magnet after getting kicked out of the ramp/diverter. Once ball search starts it eventually releases. Other times the machine says power ball, does a search, then sends out a regular ball.
I'm thinking this isn't right but have never seen the two upper magnets in action so I'm not sure what to check.
Suggestions please

Maybe 2 different issues? First, reseat the ribbon cables in the backbox and see if things improve.

1 week later
#8007 20 days ago
Quoted from Happy2play:

Hi all, I am in London, does anyone know someone that could help with a TZ? After not using the machine for a couple of years, I am getting the ‘check Geneva switch’ error, and the gumball will accept balls, but the the gumball motor won’t turn to dispense any. Will forcing the yellow knob on the front help? I know very little about how pinballs work, so any basic advice appreciated thank you

There are lots of Pinsiders around you, so hopefully someone will reach out. You might want to start a thread in the main forum, looking for locals who can help, since any WPC pin from the 90s is similar to TZ.

Since your pin has been sitting, the first thing I worry about is the AA batteries leaking on the CPU board which happens frequently. You can unlock the backbox, lift out the translight, swing the lamp board to the side, and look at the CPU board on the left. Carefully check the batteries there for any green acid leakage and replace dead batteries ASAP. Report back if you see leakage or not.

#8027 19 days ago
Quoted from Zukboy2002:

I have one would you know where it goes in the game? I don’t remember and dont see a spot on the playfield for it

It is upside-down and backwards in that shot. It goes at the entrance to the left ramp, on the right side (under the ramp entrance switch).

#8072 15 days ago