(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago



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  • 8,167 posts
  • 602 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 seconds ago by Rdoyle1978
  • Topic is favorited by 323 Pinsiders

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#6897 11 months ago

Picking up my TZ this week, hope to be a member of this misfit toys club soon, but on another note, following this thread on alligator clips and molex connectors, I've used these posi tap connectors when I installed my auto car starter this winter as I hate those crimp on ones often used in the auto parts/ add on accessories. These are really simple and you can remove them and only leave a small hole behind (in the insulation) and no soldering. Not sure how you all feel about these. Here is an Amazon link, but I find them a little bit cheaper on ebay. amazon.com link »

#6918 11 months ago

I have a brand new in the box INGO clock board with both warm white and blue led's. Never installed. The TZ I was supposed to purchase fell through and I subsequently purchased one from a fellow pinside member that already had one. So PM me if interested. Authentic German language packing paper thrown in at no charge!

Item sold....thanks for playing

1 week later
#6951 11 months ago

Two questions, the stainless steel bracket on the back of the clock (angled one), is its purpose to keep the ball from flying into the back of the clock? it seems the long screw(upper left facing the clock from the front) that holds it on has stripped a bit and it keeps getting loose, causing the bracket to turn slightly and stop the ball from rolling past. I'm thinking I'm in need of a new clock housing.
Installing the diverter magnet, the two sided tape seems somewhat inadequate to hold it as its come off twice now and I'm thinking 5 min epoxy? any thoughts?

1 week later
#6964 11 months ago

What are people using for Mylar replacement for the playfield? Marco makes one that covers most of the playfield, but I'm concerned that the Door area is not as smooth as the rest of the playfield and it will be lifted a bit. I see one on ebay that seem to mimic the original ones. Anyone use it? recommendations? Thanks gents.

#6966 11 months ago

While playing a game today, all my flippers suddenly started oscillating. I shut her down and upon restart, its stuck in testing mode. (9.4) I have GI lights, but no other lighting (led ocd board). I checked the fuses all good, I checked the flippertronic board and I'm getting 75v at J907 instead of 50. I checked the input to the bridge and its 50 vac. I removed the board and did a diode check on the bridge and its seems to be ok. could a bad cap cause the voltage to get that high? there's nothing else on that circuit.
Update...after some more checking, I had no 18vdc, ultimately my BR1 rectifier bit the dust....

2 weeks later
#6979 10 months ago

Gumball popper (VUK)- I was attempting to replace the gumball popper coil sleeve, but can't seem to figure out how to remove the ball pop from the end of the shaft? Anyone got the skinny on this....I'm trying not to remove the optos to bench it just to do this...I'm sure its easy once you know how...

#6983 10 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yup. Small phillips head screw in the bottom of the cup, when looking straight down on it.

Yes...found it...actually saw it in the manual too this morning while looking for something else....

2 weeks later
#7021 9 months ago

Does anyone notice a loss of magnetic power on the magnets on the upper playfield during say a powermania mulitball? They work fine during a normal "battle the power" single ball, but I definitely notice a loss in the ability to move the ball significantly. Any thoughts?

1 week later
#7039 9 months ago

I picked this up in Allentown yesterday, but forgot to get the info on where the ground alligator clip attaches to. for those who have this particular robot, where does it attach to? I know the harness attached to J133, I assume if your using the ocd board, it attached to it as well.

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1 week later
#7078 9 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

That is insane. Plus $100 shipping! It will sell for $1,000 I bet. Wish there were more of these!

ahem....1725.00 Bamm!....

#7082 9 months ago

Just installed Pinsound in my TZ...awesome upgrade. I'm not a sound guy by any means, but even with the original speakers, Wow....pretty cool.

1 week later
#7140 8 months ago

does anyone know who makes a custom lockdown bar that's engraved (robot and sprial as I recall)? I saw one posted on facebook the other day and can't find it now and was curious who made them and if available.

3 weeks later
#7250 7 months ago

Bonus multiplier , can someone explain how the bonus multiplier is activated during play? I noticed it the other day during a game and never noticed it before. Rule sheet says its activated by the right in lane "when its lit" lit for the dead end, spiral and left ramp. Can someone shed some light here...I'd like to get this going again!

3 months later
#7513 4 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I tried doing this but all that happens is the ball actually gets stuck there instead. I'm 100% using the same type of post and rubber ring as in that image. I experimented just partially screwing a mini rubber as pictured into the playfield, using the screw that you remove from that guide to fit the post, but it looks very strange and I have an OCD about weird hacks.
The ball drops out of mine onto the flipper probably 50% of the time I'd say.
Hadn't thought of trying to dampen the ball hitting the adjustable ball guide by using some rubber or something, that's pretty ingenuous!

I use this post https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5004-01 it works with no issues for me since I installed it in the existing 1/4" screw hole right above the hole, the upper one ( I think it holds the metal guide as I recall). I tried the standard post with the rubber ring(even the very small one) and it would get stuck. You can try it with the post you have the small ring on...just remove the ring...once you see how you like it....order the smooth one...same difference really, I just think its more appropriate.

-1
#7556 4 months ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

I wanted to share details of the custom television set topper I've made for my TZ. It's constructed of 3/8" oak plywood and pine. The screen is a 10" LCD from an old netbook computer. The TV is running on a Raspberry Pi Zero and is running software from MP4Museum which loops a B&W TZ video file I've made with clips of the old episodes. Blue LED strips on the back door illuminate the silhouette when the lights are off.
I haven't decided whether it will be an actual topper or I'll just hang it on the wall. It is quite large and I'm not about to drill holes into my TZ to mount it. I've considered using neodymium magnets to keep it up there. Open to suggestions on that. Thanks![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

awesome man!

2 weeks later
#7628 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

One of the rainbow LEDs on my german-pinball Ingo clock board has stopped working properly. It only cycles red to off, whereas the other 3 cycle colours without ever turning off completely. I guess the green and blue sub-LEDs (?) have stopped working.
I rebuilt the clock a while ago and it is working perfectly apart from this.
Is it safe to take the front of the clock apart to get to the LEDs without taking the clock out of the game? Will it stay on 12 a clock dead like it is now?
Also where do I get these rainbow LEDs from? I only had 4 when I bought it.
Thanks in advance.

Reach out to Ingo, I recall reading a post a ways back where he said he had them special made for his board....

#7631 3 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Thanks both. Can the LEDs be switched without having to remove the clock from the game?

Probably, but its not too difficult to remove. While you're in there you can lubricate the gears too. (use appropriate lube of course)

#7637 3 months ago

GLM is no longer in business, there is a guy on here from France (forget the name) that sells basically the same kit (which I installed) for the upper playfield switches. I like them, very clean look and really sensitive to the ball.

#7645 3 months ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

Out of stock

With all of the magnets already in game, wont these mods increase magnetism on the balls? Gotta figure the balls will need to be changed out pretty often. Nobody has tried a dead rubber on the other side of the diverter to deaden then impact?

you really need the magnet, it just doesn't deaden the impact, it holds onto the ball too, but just enough though to allow it to fall off. People have used cheaper magnets you can get at home depot and use double sided tape ( I used velcro as the tape didn't hold that well) while your waiting for the other to come back in stock. It really is a necessary mod IMHO.

2 weeks later
#7667 3 months ago
Quoted from BloatedToad:

I went slightly mad with my TZ, yesterday added:
PinSound PLUS V3.5
Pinball Street Lamp
Illuminated Camera Mod
Illuminated Invader Mod
Ultimate LED Kit
ColorDMD
Flipper Fidelity Complete Speaker System[quoted image]

Nice, but I found that that camera really blocked my view of the upper left flipper, so I moved it to the rear of the upper playfield, now I can see it much better...

#7686 3 months ago
Quoted from Methos:

My game only recognizes the Powerball when it's released from the gumball machine. If it kicks out of the out hole, the game doesn't know its a power ball. I take it there must be another sensor somewhere that isn't working?

Yes..in the ball trough small board located there...check how close the ball is sitting next to the sensor...sometimes you need to replace the wire connectors and solder the wires to the board directly
...i believe if the metal ball is sensed the light is red on the other small, board its wired to.

4 weeks later
#7765 62 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Kind of a general question but it’s happebing on my TZ so here I am...
Replacing a bulb last night; I removed the light board with the 5mil/ extra ball / lock lamps. I replaced the Lock bulb, then when I turned the machine back on - suddenly all the lamps in that row on the lamp matrix (start, lock, spiral, etc) are locked on.
Did I blow a transistor somehow?

If They're on the same row?...maybe a diode on the board went?...or some other diode on that row

#7767 62 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

suddenly all the lamps in that row on the lamp matrix (start, lock, spiral, etc) are locked on.

Did I blow a transistor somehow?

Ok, I didn't pull the manual yet, but I thought you said they were on the same matrix row? I recommend getting siegecraft'ss lamp matrix tester https://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=11&controller=product&id_lang=1 to trouble shoot these lamp issues, tells you whether its on the board or playfield

#7769 62 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Yes, you’re right - they are on the same row in the lamp matrix. I was just clarifying that the affected lamps are not all on that same board or anything.
Replaced the diode on the affected lamp on that board... that’s not it. Thinking it’s Q83 which is the transistor for that row. Great. I’ll have to test that later

Use a logic probe to check the output to the row in question, if its pulsing its prob good, if its on solid locked on its something on the board...but since this started with a bad lamp (led i assume) could be either or coincidence

1 week later
#7780 48 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Of course on New Year’s Eve I have to play a little Twilight Zone while watching The Twilight Zone![quoted image]

Still one of my favorite games!

1 week later
#7810 38 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Finally added LEDs. Looks like a different game [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

where to get that clock face?

#7848 36 days ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

Thanks again to all of you. I don't know how anyone would jump into this hobby without a resource like Pinside or a mentor in the business.
I went through the wiki link posted by PinJim and started at the beginning of the checklist. I pulled the power board to check it out and didn't see any issues with the solder so I put it back in and it is working again. Time will tell if these issue keeps popping up or not.
Looks like some board work was done in the past. Not sure though.
Now it's time to get LED's, new rubber, new legs and a few other items.[quoted image][quoted image]

Hard to tell in the pic, but I'd hit that 5v regulator (the component that is getting your. Board hot) with some solder...it looks like a cold solder on the ground...but can't be sure

#7852 36 days ago
Quoted from FlippinJimmy:

Not sure which one is the 5v regulator.

look on the back of the board where its getting dark...from heat....those two large solder spots are the ones I'm referring to. That's your 5V regulator.

#7874 33 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Hard to believe it took me over 3 hours just to strip, polish, ultrasonic the parts, etc. this thing. Thought it’d take an hour, ha ha...[quoted image]

Gotta get those low profile switches now...

#7882 33 days ago

They look like this ...reach out to twister I purchased them from him
15791383435382321319369087034450 (resized).jpg

#7885 33 days ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I got a set of switches from twister and a shadow upper playfield shroud thst he did in black nickel. Both are amazing. Buy with confidence.

Ok, what's the shadow? Not sure I've seen that one...

#7918 29 days ago

Anyone know the type of led Ingo uses on his clock board and matching socket...another modder may be interested in using that type of socketed led...pic if you have too would be great to give him a visual

#7975 23 days ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

That's odd. I've never seen that before. Seems like someone didn't have a machine screw that fit, so they used the torx screw instead. The mini playfield is under the glass, and there doesn't seem to be a need for a security screw.

Mine has an 8-32 machine screw and it must fit below the circular area under the playfield surface...I believe there is a washer in there too.

#8020 20 days ago
Quoted from Zukboy2002:

Thanks fellas didn’t think so I thought I was going crazy get a min, in the process of doing a full restore new playfield and cabinet, all metal parts are powdered coated[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

curious to see how those stainless steel guides hold up with powder coating...

1 week later
#8120 8 days ago

I've found this tester to be great in diagnosing lamp matrix problems...it will tell you if its on the board or downstream on the playfield in no time...well worth the money..make one for switches too....https://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=11&controller=product&id_lang=1

1 week later
#8164 28 minutes ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the tips and experience with TZ upgrades and mods. I don't want to over do it, but I'm good with adding to the overall experience. Another factor is that I ask myself, "will it add value to the price if I every sell it?" Or, is it lost money.
Again, thanks for the ideas, suggestions, and tips.</blockquot

Ingos clock board also a great upgrade

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