(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago

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Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (3 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (1 year ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (4 months ago)

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#7294 2 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Anyone know where I can get a powerball trough sensor (A-16533)? New or used. I already have the eddy sensor board (A-16534) but everywhere seems to be sold out of both.[quoted image]

You can buy a set of TZ trough sensor boards from http://tanglestech.com/Twilight-Zone--Trough-Proximity-Eddy-Sensor--Replaces-A-16534-and-A-16528-Switch-26_p_36.html

#7308 2 years ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

Is there a good option for the trough eddy board/sensor? I'm working on another TZ and this one has already been hacked to bits.

Tangles has both the trough and subway eddy sensor boards available



#7314 2 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Might have been my post
The one I've got provides 12v and 5v to mods that would normally plug into the power driver board using the standard 3-pin connectors. It is wired to the transformer so it comes on when the game is switched on.
applejuice is the guy that sells it, his website is
I'm very happy with mine. Even though I only have about 3 mods plugged into it currently (including ColorDMD), I'm glad the power draw is removed from the main board.

Looks like he's changed his URL - it's now https://mypinballs.com

The "Mod Power Expander Board for WPC and WPC-95 Games" is listed in his store https://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp

1 month later
#7419 2 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Can someone take a picture of their power input connector that goes from the power in/aux/switch box to their transformer? Mine looks like it's been (poorly) worked on on the box end and only has 2 of the 9 pins populated. Is this connection supposed to have loopbacks for more surface contact?[quoted image][quoted image]

It depends what voltage your country has, as to which loopbacks are required. The front page of the WPC schematics manual has the different pin connections required for the different voltages they supported at the time

#7425 2 years ago
Quoted from Barr993:

In the midst of my first under ramp cleaning, is this plastic supposed to be bent like this?
[quoted image]

Mine was exactly the same, the 2 spacers that the plastic is screwed through are different lengths, so either the plastic sits up on an angle was was bent to that shape. I do wonder whether it was changed through production, so interested to see what spacers other found when they stripped their game?

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#7429 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

It is possible to reboot my friend’s TZ when hitting both flippers at the same time, but oddly enough this only happens after you first turn it on. To me, it seems like a cap issue, but I don’t know which one.
After 2-3 minutes it is impossible to reboot in this way.
Any ideas?

Sounds like a 5v reset - the MPU has a watchdog circuit that will trigger a reset of the machine if the 5v line drops too far below spec. Quite often you see this when both flippers are pressed at the same time. This can occur at random times. There is plenty of info around on troubleshooting 5v reset issues - http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets but the first thing I'd do is re-seat the connectors J101, J102, J114 on the power driver board and J210 on the MPU board

http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html also makes a workaround for the 5v issue which can be useful as a temporary fix.

#7436 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I actually NEED one of these longer posts. Anyone have the measurement of it?
I AM sick of my balls getting stuck there. (My diverter sometimes likes to pretend it's CV Ringmaster, and throw balls.

My machine is stripped and yes it 1-1/2"

#7447 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Does that still make sense if it is no longer possible to reset after a few minutes of being on? I thought it might be a cap issue because of that. I experienced something similar on an older game.

There are many reasons why the 5v can drop below spec and cause the reset, which are all covered by http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets - "If the game is resetting only within the first minute or two, and plays fine after that, skip to Step 8, Failed Thermistor."

#7459 2 years ago
Quoted from McSquid:

I know this is on the specific side but does anyone have any photos of the wiring for the left/main/plastic ramp? Doesn't have to be super detailed, Id mostly just like to know the factory wiring paths so I can recreate it as close as possible. Bonus points of course for connectors and wire colors. I haven't checked yet to see if those are detailed in the manual like the board connections.

Let me know if you need any others

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2 weeks later
#7535 2 years ago
Quoted from AD72:

Looking for a trough proximity switch that is reliable (not the Pin Point POS).

Recommend this one http://tanglestech.com/Twilight-Zone--Trough-Proximity-Eddy-Sensor--Replaces-A-16534-and-A-16528-Switch-26_p_36.html

3 weeks later
#7634 1 year ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

The top habit trail seems to give me a bit of a bounce often when it first hits the diverter(?) that lowers it to the playfield. What are you guy doing to address the bounce? Some of that blue Stern dead rubber?


Quoted from Wmsfan:

I believe I read that 9.4h is the ROM to get for home, is that correct? Game currently has L3- any big differences?

9.4h is the latest. This shows the fixes of the various releases up to 9.4 http://www.robertwinter.com/pinball/dotcom/tech/roms/twilight.html
I can't find the list of enhancements in 9.4h but the main things are LITZ practice mode and pause mode (catch the ball on a flipper and press the "Extra Ball" button while holding the flipper button and it'll hold the ball on the flipper for 15 minutes).

Quoted from Wmsfan:

I want to say I remember playing someone's TZ that had some sort of lit up backboard decal or? Is there one, or am I not remembering it correctly?

Twilight Zone PlexiGlass Custom Backboard and Custom PCB PDI - L.E.D. Light Strip For Plexi Backboard from Pinball Decals https://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/TZ_Page.html

Quoted from Wmsfan:

I don't remember seeing those gray switch covers on the mini pf, and there was a game HEP was working on a bit ago where he was mounting them on the underside. Is there an actual kit/mod for this or is it completely custom?

That's the way the machines came from the factory but OPs sometimes never put them back on after fixing the machine. Marco sells them - they are in small, medium and large sizes

Quoted from Wmsfan:

While I'm on it, how does the mini pf come off- waiting on a manual to arrive.

You can download the manual from https://www.ipdb.org/files/2684/Bally_1993_Twilight_Zone_Operations_Manual_OCR_searchable.pdf

#7635 1 year ago

kevinleedrum haha you were clearly faster than me - nice work!

1 week later
#7660 1 year ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Anyone know where to get the Blue Clock housing, everywhere I checked is out of stock?

Looks like Pinball Heaven has them https://www.pinball.co.uk/?product=clock-housing-03-8833-blue

1 week later
#7688 1 year ago

Methos The ball sensor pictured above is the one that is working one your machine - it'll sense a metal ball coming from the gumball or camera or deadend, so when the ball triggers the microswitch in the trough but the above sensor doesn't sense a metal ball then it is the Powerball.

Switch 26 (where your issue is) is made up of 2 small PCBs, one is located at the right-hand end of the shooter trough. This switch is a common issue with TZ. There are improved replacement boards available or you can repair/improve the original if you have the skills

1 month later
#7796 1 year ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

The look really similar to mine that I've had for 4 years plus[quoted image]

I really like the look - do you still have the file you made?

#7799 1 year ago
Quoted from spblat:

“Details here” in my prior post has links to the source artwork used in my cards and in seatmandan’s.

I missed that - thanks I'll take a look

#7808 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Yes under all star posts on mini playfield. Lightens it up quite well. The link is above LOL

Did you use the cool white (natural) or sunlight?

#7887 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Ok, what's the shadow? Not sure I've seen that one...

Bally "The Shadow" 1994 - one of my go-to favourite machines. Based off the movie starring Alec Baldwin (bit of a flop), which in turn was based off the comics of the same name.

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2 weeks later
#8057 1 year ago

Awesome - I went looking for those instruction cards but the only version I could find had different artwork on the right hand one.

Looking forward to getting these printed and on my machine

#8065 1 year ago
Quoted from birdman665:

Anyone know of a place that has the trough proximity kit in stock? Seems like everywhere I look they're sold out...

Tangles has some coming in later this month if that helps https://www.tanglestech.com/Twilight-Zone--Trough-Proximity-Eddy-Sensor--Replaces-A-16534-and-A-16528-Switch-26_p_36.html

1 week later
#8105 1 year ago
Quoted from BenB:

Got an error for extra ball in gum ball machine. I have 4 in the gum all machine and 2 in the trough. Is it simply a setting for the number of balls in the machine do I have off or is there another issue in the gumball machine?

Normally you have 3 in the gum ball machine and 3 in the tough

1 week later
#8219 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The rocket switch is from a more recent power box; my sample TZ has the “lever” switch, and the power box stands upright instead of flat on the cab floor. Never seen another game like it

WPC machines had the power box upright but they moved to having them flat on the cab floor when they moved to WPC-DCS (IJ being the first to have it flat).

My TZ has a rocker, I think the only machine I have that has a lever is STTNG which I assumed the original had been replaced - but maybe B/W leveraged both around this time depending upon what was in stock at the suppliers??

#8222 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

My STTNG had a lever too. I was trying to remember if my TAF had an upright power box. It was too long ago. But I do know it had a lever as well.

Based on tear down images on Pinside and the net, TAF was up right as well.

My STTNG lever switch is installed in the opposite direction to all my toggle switches, which always throws me when I go to turn it on or off. Is this just mine or did they install them this direction because of the orientation of the connectors in the power box???

#8247 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

What are Homepin’s ones like? I think I might need one of these.

Homepin does good boards, designed to look as close to the original as possible (which I like) but will also addresses issues that existed on the original design. They're in stock at a range of major pinball suppliers around the world




#8259 1 year ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Cleaning up nicely tho.[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks to be in great condition, once you've removed the layer of filth and the cab isn't faded (... well from the side we've seen). Congrats on the pickup!!

#8261 1 year ago

Anybody got a copy of the instructions for Great Lakes' TZ mini-PF switch kit? Just after a scanned or photographed copy, helping out a local guy whose copy are MIA.


1 month later
#8601 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball13:

I dont know why they dont make the repalcments anymore. There has to still be a market for them.

Quoted from yzfguy:

That's a link to an out of stock item

That search showed the subway proximity sensor (which is out of stock), not the trough sensor - the one you need is here and it is in stock


#8604 1 year ago
Quoted from Kwoody51:

Any solutions for managing airballs off the clock target and greed target near the scoop?
I have the Pinball Resource enhanced stand-up targets (http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm) which I thought were supposed to help with airballs but after a few hundred games I'm getting more airballs than when these targets were new.
Some airballs off the greed target have shot all the way back to the shooter lane!

Firstly check you have the correct flipper coils installed. You can try replacing the foam behind the target with a denser foam (I have even heard of people used old flipper rubbers), this stops the target angling back as much and so stops rebounding the ball on an upward trajectory

#8609 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Easter Egg during Fast Lock. For Whirlwind, I think

Close ... it's from Earthshaker

Quotes from older Pat Lawlor pins are heard during "Fast Lock":
The Addams Family: Cousin It blabbing. Hitting lock: Cousin It: "Aaaah!".
Funhouse: "Hey, it´s only pinball!". Hitting lock: Rudy: "Gulp...ptooey!".
Whirlwind: "Return to your homes!". Hitting lock: "Do not panic".
Earthshaker: "It´s sunny drive time!". Hitting lock: "Ooh, Gimme shelter!".
Banzai Run: "Welcome race fans!". Hitting lock: "Go for the hill!".

#8630 1 year ago
Quoted from HC2016:

During the solenoid test , it works fine . Starts out fast during the test , gradually adding more time between active test . Ckd the spring and that’s ok . So that proximity switch that detects the ball waiting to be ejected out is just for the PB ?

Quoted from HC2016:

Also to add , when it did get activated during play , it seemed like it didn’t have enough force to eject the ball out . It was popping but not enough to eject the ball . Then sometimes it wouldn’t work at all .

The trough proximity sensor has nothing to do with the trough switches (that indicate how many balls are in the trough) or the shooter lane feeder assembly (that ejects the ball from the trough to the shooter lane). The role of the trough proximity sensor is to determine whether the first ball in the trough (that is being ejected into the shooter lane) is the power ball - if the sensor doesn't detect a metal ball it is therefore the power ball (the ceramic ball).

In regards to your issue though, check the shooter lane feeder assembly - you might need to replace the coil sleeve (not shown in the manual but 03-7066), also potentially the coil stop on the bracket might be worn down / mushroomed and even the plunger (if worn) may need replacing. The other thing to check is the alignment of the assembly with the ball in the trough - the cam arm (A-8247) may not be striking the ball cleaning to kick it out into the shooter lane.

2 weeks later
#8672 1 year ago
Quoted from misterman:

... still learning weird things about this game.

You have now entered the Twilight Zone

1 week later
#8699 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Got my "cherry on top" mod today!
Manny65 hooked me up with an O.G. metal slot mod with 7 LEDs. It was still new in the packaging with instructions. I didn't think I'd find one, and was not wanting the plastic copy. It took two months from Australia to nj! Shipped at the beginning of the pandemic and arrived today
Great guy to deal with, great communication. I'm so psyched to have this, and I swear the game knows ..... First game with it, my t.v. mod played the slot machine episode! Creepy
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks mate. Didn't take long for you to get it on your machine - looks great!! Hope your game now gives you a GC to go with it

#8703 1 year ago
Quoted from embryon:

Is the heat sink still necessary

No it's not needed but keeps the original look of the board

1 week later
#8742 1 year ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Why is shipping restricted? Is this all covid19 still?

Yes, a lot of parcels (especially those sent through postal services) go on commercial passenger flights which are currently almost non-existent between some countries due to Covid-19

1 month later
#8853 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Does anyone have access to a parts catalog for TZ? I am missing a bunch of stand-offs for and hardware for some of my plastics, and I am trying to identify what I need to order.

It's online at Planetary - Bally/Midway Gray Parts Catalog has TZ


#8856 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Thanks, I didn't look in that one because Planetary didn't list TZ as being part of that manual.

Yes they only list the games in the "A" supplement of that manual (also PinWiki is the same) - I've reached out to both recently to get it fixed however they haven't been updated yet

#8876 1 year ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

I did some more digging and found some signs point to yes. (at least for the lock gate) Sounds like it may only be some of the posts that get the washers. Not sure what that means for the inner part of the outer loop either. I have an early build (green lock; no 3rd mag) so I don't have the black spacers (but assume these washers were used before those were put into production)
Edit: I found some additional pictures pre-tear down. Some extra large zooming shows these spacer washers on all 4 legs of the lock assembly.
My theory on them (despite the threads about raising the lock to prevent bounce outs) is that when there is a threaded leg that gets bolted to the underside of the playfield gets a washer on both the top of the playfield and below. This prevents the top of the leg from digging into the playfield as the nut is tightened. That is why the inside wall of the outer loop also has them. There is no other reason to have that ball guide be raised.
I'm putting all 4 washers back on and will readdress if needed for any bounce outs if prevalent.

I checked my tear down photos - I had 3 washers on the outer lock ball guide and 3 on the lock mech (not sure why the 4th leg didn't have one). My washers were much thinner than yours shown and as far as I know my TZ is a std production run. I believed that these washers were there for protecting the PF and I assume that were done like that at the factory although I can't be certain. As to why they only protected the PF for this particular ball guide & mech I'm not sure as it seems like a good idea to me ... in thinking about it, these machines were designed to be operated and eventually tossed, so they probably didn't care about protecting the PF for longevity which then takes you back to the original question "why did they put washers on these ..." was it to improve the angle of the lock mech??

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#8890 1 year ago
Quoted from BryanD:

Somehow my daughter consistently manages to get the ball stuck on the skill shot. The ball just passes beyond the gate/flap, then comes to rest on the gate/ flap and sits in the groove for the skill shot switches.
Bend the flap up, bend the flap down, increase the playfield pitch... nothing seems to work. It is uncanny because with the glass off, it is rather difficult to release the ball by hand from the distance of the open flap and have it come to rest on the closed flap.
Any ideas on how to fix this? She can't beat my scores yet so I am not ready to tell her to stop playing.

This happens on mine and others I've played, you just need to do a bit of nudging to get the ball to dislodge. It happens because the momentum of the ball isn't great enough to get through the gate and as the ball comes to a halt the slope of the PF means that the weight of the ball will lean back on the edge of the gate flap. I think that regardless of the PF angle and position of the flap, there is always going to be a ball speed that will be susceptible to this issue.

My only advice would be to check that the flaps move freely with minimal effort

#8891 1 year ago
Quoted from sliprose:

I'm thinking of adding a TZ as the second pin in my collection (Stern JP Pro is my other).
What are the critical areas I should be inspecting when evaluating a machine? I know that the clock can be problematic, but what to look for exactly?
What would be the issues that make you run like the wind from buying?
I'm reasonably capable in diagnosing electrical issues, but I'm a newbie to pinball and have never bought a used machine, so I'm little nervous. When I bought my JP Pro, I was looking only at NIB because I was scared of maintenance issues. Since then, I found pinside and gained a lot of confidence and that if I do have problems, I can get advice in how to resolve.
Any advice or thoughts from those that own TZ would be appreciated. Thanks!

Generically I think that the most important thing is the quality of the PF, as this is the most expensive component to repair/replace. Depending upon whether you want a show piece or just interested in playing the machine, check the cabinet artwork (the red on the original cabinet art fades in UV light) and check that the cabinet is structurally sound - around the legs and base. Replacement cabinet decals and PF plastics are all available but whether they need replacing or not drives the price that you should pay. Check if the credit dot is showing on the DMD, this indicates that game has a potential error and you'll need to go into test mode to see what the errors are.

TZ game specific things to check, there are 2 powerball proximity sensors, one in the subway and one in the trough - the ball trough sensor (switch 26 off the top of my head) is known to be troublesome. There are aftermarket better versions which aren't expensive so even if it was an issue it's not the end of the world. Check the gumball machine works (loads a ball and returns a ball), as well as that the clock works (going into test mode and run the clock test) - depending upon the issue there are replacement parts, again it depends upon whether you want to purchase a fully functional working game or if you are prepared to pick one up for a cheaper price that has a few know issues that you know can be addressed.

There are 2 magnets on the PF (spirals) or 3 in the prototypes - some people have retrofitted a 3rd magnet to their PFs. There are also 2 magnets on the mini-PF - it's worth checking that they all work and check the micro-switches on the min-PF which can sometimes be faulty, there are aftermarket versions that replace the micro-switches as well. Color DMD, Pinsound and upgraded speakers all drive the price higher and TZ is one game that attracts a lot of mods - the original game was quite bare by comparison, so you may notice many differences between machines.

Hope this helps

#8895 1 year ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Can you please point me to a more reliable ball trough sensor (switch 26) ? Mine has started to give me the occasional dot. Thx!


#8898 1 year ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Thanks! I didn't notice you were in Melbourne. I was trying to find something stateside.

PinballLife have the main sensor board https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0421-00 but often it is the inductor and the connection to the inductor board that is part of the problem, which is why alot of replacements provide both boards to ensure they work well together. I can't find any other US based suppliers with those boards in stock.

With the Aussie dollar atm the Tangles board set is US$75 compared to the $50 for single board from PinballLife or $95 for the board set from Big Daddy (although they are out of stock)

Anyway if you were interested, reach out to Malcolm (aka Tangles) for shipping costs etc

#8900 1 year ago
Quoted from sliprose:

Thank you manny65 and mikespinball for the thoughtful responses on tips for buying a TZ. I'm not looking for purchasing a museum piece, but definitely will be looking for something that is in decent condition. It looks like most of the common issues for TZ can be addressed, but they all need to be factored into the purchase price. Playfield is obviously a big one, most of the TZ pics I see have playfield's in pretty good condition - it must have a pretty solid top coat. Are there areas to check carefully?
Gumball, Clock, magnets - got it. I'll definitely make sure to look for the credit dot for errors to run test mode.

There are difference with some of the PFs - early on the PFs had 2 extra posts in the pop bumper area (see the left PF highlighted with a yellow circle). Also B/W had 4 different companies manufacture PFs, so there is a subtle difference in colors between the the different PFs (eg compare the pink/red in the arc just above the flippers and the yellow town square in the pop bumpers).

Areas to check
1. Run your hand over the PF checking if any of the inserts are raised. If so check for any clipping around them.
2. Check for flipper drag damage - there are 4 flippers so worth checking them all (circled in white)
3. Ball drop damage can occur on the left return lane off the wireform (circled in blue) - probably worth checking the other 2 ball drop areas (just above the upper left flipper and into the inner shooter lane)
4. Check the slot machine scoop (circled in red) and piano scoop (circled in mauve) for damage
5. Check for ball track wear in the orbit (circled in green)
6. Check the ball trough kickout and shoot lane for wear (circled in orange)
7. If the PF has been restored/clear coated, check for any ghosting (cloudy/opaque coloring) on all the inserts

Note the PF may have mylar protecting certain areas (eg the orbit - in fact the green circled area on that particular PF had mylar so there was even though you can see the ball track mark it hadn't damaged the actual PF)

TZ (resized).jpg
#8915 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Just a minor note about the 2 posts in the pop bumper area - (theres's a thread elsewhere on the site) - apparently this was not exclusive to early games. Some Later production games have the posts as well; I imagine they tested the game at the factory and only installed if necessary

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I actually had forgot my game once must have had those posts. A previous owner removed them and put in plugs.
Would be interesting to know if my game was early or not.
[quoted image]

I remembered reading the story of Pat Lawlor adding the posts early in production and then later on removing them, but it seems that the PF holes were left there to allow op's to decide whether they wanted them or not.

This is Ted Estes account of what happened:
"The history of these posts is a story of frustration for the design team. In designing Twilight Zone, Pat Lawlor wanted to try something a bit radical, and placed the jet bumpers very close to the bottom of the playfield. After experimenting with the jet bumper placement on the whitewoods, Pat decided that they weren’t too bad down there. Something changed (slight positioning differences of posts and jet bumpers, perhaps?) between the whitewoods and prototypes, however. The ball kept flying down the left drain any time it went into the bumpers. After a few weeks of listening to complaints, Pat came into work one morning, grabbed a drill, some T-nuts, posts, and rubbers, and installed the posts. The complaints died down until several thousand games into the production run. Now, people were complaining that the ball would fly out of the bumpers and straight between the flippers! Something else had changed (slight warp of the playfield, perhaps?). Pat decided to take out the posts, but leave the holes, and put the posts in the coin box for the operator to decide to use. Which setup should you use? Which ever makes your game play the best."

If you are interested The Gameroom Blog has Ted Estes article "A Peek at the Game Design Process" which details TZ prototype, sample and production differences https://gameroomblog.com/guides/twilight-zone-pinball-prototype-vs-production

#8918 1 year ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Anyone out there have pix from a TZ playfield swap? I thought I took enough pictures....NOT! Of course I thought I would remember how to put this bugger back together with my awesome memory? NOT! I feel like Borat atm
Any extra pix would be appreciated. Especially around the piano/clock area.
Thanks in advance...

Do some of these online galleries of teardowns help


#8923 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Does anyone have a set of switch covers they would be willing to sell? I’d love to get a set of the low profile power switches, but I think shipping them for Europe is not going to happen for a while.
[quoted image]

Quoted from PinJim:

I don’t mind the original covers. But I’m not a mod guy either, my machine is relatively stock. Any other stockers out there? I have an ingo board, leds, and gumballs in the gumball machine. Otherwise, stock. I’m not a fan of a bunch of mods...

Planetary are out of stock but Marco has them


#8925 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

I thought they were the large covers. I guess I was mistaken.

Looks like TZ had 2 of the small and 4 of the medium... so guessing the Mini-PF used the medium given the qtys.

Marco lists:
20-9672 (small) as 0.5 x 0.74 x 1.0 inches
20-9820 (medium) as 1 wide x 1 tall x 1/2 inch deep

Can't find anyone with the medium in stock.

Interestingly Action Pinball indicates that 20-9672 replaces 20-9860, but what they are selling is listed as 1-inch long x 1-inch tall x 1/2-inch wide. So sound like this is a medium size and not the original small (20-9672) as listed. Ref. http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=20-9672

#8942 1 year ago
Quoted from HC2016:

There’s a metal diverter at the entrance where the ball will drop down to the subway . Ball enters there 3 ways , one when ball is discharged from gumball machine , one when dropping down from mini playfield , and one from the camera shot . Balls aren’t magnetized... looks like the metal diverter at the entrance of this hole leading down to the subway is not moving freely . Hope I explained it better . I’ll post a pic later if not

Are you talking about the piece pointed to with the red arrow??

TZ PF (resized).jpg
#8944 1 year ago
Quoted from HC2016:

Having an issue with ball getting hung up leaving mini playfield ... Dropping down getting hung up on top of the metal flange . Seems like it’s not moving back to its original position. I bent it back and was working for a few days .. now it’s hanging up again . Looks like the metal gate is hanging up . Maybe needs lubrication ? Just wanna see if anyone has have the same problem

That vertical metal plate is a deflector to stop the ball when you've used the upper right flipper for the camera shot. That deflector is welded into the bottom of the subway metal box and should not move. You mentioned bending it back and lubrication, so I'm guessing your welds are cracked/broken and that plate is being bent /moved from the force of the ball hitting it from the camera shot.

You need to lift the PF and remove the metal box (see the red arrow) and inspect the welds of the deflector

Subway (resized).jpgTZ (resized).JPG
#8948 1 year ago
Quoted from HC2016:

@ Manny65
That’s exactly what happened , one weld was faulty , so there was movement on the deflector , causing the ball to hang up . I bent it some more , so if it does move , it won’t affect the ball dropping down into the subway .
I tested it over and over and so far it’s ok . Thanks again for the help

I suggest you re-weld that bracket, otherwise over time it'll fatigue the remaining weld and break that deflector off. This part would be hard to replace and better & easier to repair now when there is minimal damage

#8959 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Super newb question...I dont see lamp 81 (Left Spiral) light in lamp test and its not shown on the Lamp Location page Can someone point me in the right direction please?

This is because "you have just crossed over into the Twilight Zone"!!

Yes the lamp location page doesn't show the lamps on the mini-PF #76-78, nor #81 as it hangs off the side of the mini-PF.

Interesting that the lamp test misses it ...

#8962 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Also...MY CLOCK IS LOUD!! any tips for quieting it down?

A teflon lube such as Super Lube will quieten the gear noise



#8968 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Yep. I hear the clock, I hear Rudy's eyes in funhouse.... It's part of pinball. Of I didn't want it to be physical, I'd get a virtual pin and play a silent monitor

LOL. Yep I hear mine as well - all just part of playing TZ. That said, there are TZ's out there that gears do seem much louder, so maybe worth an inspection, clean and lube.

#8972 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

Well crap, I thought I had this one licked, but it only worked for about 5 games and now it sticks again. There has to be something wrong with the alignment. It’s a brand new coil in a brand new mech.

If you manually move the plunger in and out, can you feel any resistance or if it's catching on anything? If it just feels firm, try loosening the coil bracket where it attaches to the PF and moving the bracket marginally to see if you can reduce/remove the resistance on the plunger

#8981 1 year ago
Quoted from evileye:

Thanks, but I'm getting an unsafe/unprotected website warning for some reason when trying to go to that site from my computer or phone.

It's a secure website (HTTPS) however the encryption certificate being used expired on the 20th June 2020.

If you want to view the website, you can click on the "Advanced" button on the warning page displayed and then click on proceed to the website link

#8982 1 year ago
Quoted from Matrixnetuk:

I used a guy in the uk for all my Fluorescent acrylic protectors


I couldn't see the TZ mini-PF protector in Cols listed TZ protectors - did you use his "Design and Supply Service" to have one made up?

#8999 1 year ago
Quoted from awesome1:

I recently made my own cover for the mini playfield out of clear Lexan.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Scotty_K:

Yep, I did the same thing for mine. It's not that difficult to do.

What thickness did you guys use - the same as a plastic / plastic protector or thinner (more like the thickness of the original fishpaper)?

1 week later
#9011 1 year ago
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

Check it out, not mine . . .
ebay.com link

That's cool - except the $$$ and add another US$71 to ship it to Australia

3 weeks later
#9060 1 year ago
Quoted from Piso:

I just noticed that my TZ is missing the F103 fuse. I have downloaded the manual from ipdb and it says that F103 drives the mini playfield magnets and two coils. I tested them and they actually works. Manual also says that F101 and F102 are not used but mine have them. Are there different fuse layouts?

Yes the manual is wrong - F101 is used for 3 of the magnets (Mini-PF left and 2 main PF magnets) and believe F103 has the 4th magnet (Mini-PF right magnet) and left ramp diverter on it. So maybe double check that the right min-PF magnet is actually working?

#9062 1 year ago
Quoted from Piso:

Yes, i checked all 4 magnets with a ball in test mode and they all work. And all diverter works. Only thing that doesn't work are the flasher on the plastic ramp. But I still had not the chance of checking for burnt bulbs or bad connectors on the playfield.

I might have got it wrong, it might be F101 does the 3 magnets and F102 does the 4th one - try pulling out F102 and seeing if this stops the Mini-PF right magnet and left ramp diverter

1 month later
#9136 11 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

ColorDMD (LCD)
German Pinball clock board
LEDs + LEDOCD & GI OCD boards
About 40-50 Pachinko balls in the gumball (half each side)
Gumball light from Pinbits.
Slot lockout cliffy
Rom v9.4
Beyond that it’s mostly nice to have. Maybe some upgrades speakers too, but I haven’t done that yet.

And Compy's new interactive backboard display https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-mod-twilight-zone-interactive-backboard-display

Depending upon the condition of your TZ and then level of work you want to do, you may want to consider new cabinet decals as the original artwork wasn't UV protected and the quite often the red colour will be faded or even non-existent.

As to the mods that add during game play, this is probably only the 9.4H ROM and maybe the displays (ColorDMD and interactive backboard)

#9142 11 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

Link didn't seem to work for me

Thanks - I fixed the original post

#9154 11 months ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

Got this coming in a week or so. I fairly certain it’s a sample. Green lock insert, green art in front of left ramp. Looks to be a decal on the spiral insert. White door on backbox. Optos under the piano. Sticker on the right load gum all plastic. Flip here art missing on mini playfield.
Board mounted to the left of the cpu. Two 7 opto boards under playfield. Anything else I should be looking for to confirm that it’s a sample? Build date 03/26/93
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Mate that revolving door in your games room is picking up speed, what's this 4 new pins in how many weeks??? You might need to sell a few more

#9163 11 months ago
Quoted from Ben38:

The backboard is missing on my TZ. (the wood board at the end of the playfield)
Does anyone can send me the size of this part? I will cut and paint a new one.

Alternatively you could buy Compy's new TZ interactive backboard https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-mod-twilight-zone-interactive-backboard-display

#9168 11 months ago
Quoted from Compy:

3/4" sheet
Happy to help! Here's a CAD layout. Measurements are in mm.
[quoted image]

Just curious as to how much metric measurements are used in the US, as I've seen people referring to mm more recently. Is it being used more in engineering/manufacturing but people generally still use inches & feet?

#9174 11 months ago
Quoted from Compy:

Though I was an idiot and referred to the sheet thickness in imperial and referenced my CAD with measurements in metric

I did notice that but thought I'd let it slide ... the CAD was consistent though

Quoted from yzfguy:

Keep your metric! They tried converting us in the 70's and it didn't take!

I didn't realise that you guys had attempted to switch. Australia switched in 1970 but even now I'll often talk in imperial, although the younger generations are metric only (they look at you strange if you start talking inches & feet)

#9177 11 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

We had several years in school where we had to convert everything to metric and back. Ugh... Then they gave up on us, and it was all for nothing basically!

Did some googling, seems to have been killed off and restarted over the years - interestingly they say as of April 2019, 'an estimated 30% of businesses in the United States have largely already switched to metric (Ref: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metrication_in_the_United_States).

Anyway now back to all things TZ

#9184 11 months ago
Quoted from ceterumnet:

I have a question regarding my TZ's bridge diverter. I was having problems where it was ejecting balls sideways 25% of the time, and then they would get stuck because of my robot mod...I've attached a pic.
I was able to improve the percentage to something more like 10% of the time by adding a washer next to the c-clip of the shaft that the diverter rotates. Also, I played with bending the shape a little of it to see if I could improve it.
I'm starting to suspect that it might be inconsistent power from the coil. But I'm definitely not sure.
Does anyone have any additional suggestions?
PS> My game is level in both directions per my digital level.
[quoted image]
EDIT: I forgot to mention one more thing: There are 2 of the horizontal steel supports for the wire form right before the diverter, and the ball rolls over those almost like speed bumps...this occasionally causes some weird motion. I wanted to also validate that the ball should be hitting those or if that is something that needs to be adjusted as well.

Does the ball travel down the wireform, hit the diverter plate (see red arrow in the below pic) and bounce back up the wireform before the diverter flips (ie the ball is not cradled in the diverter when it flips)? This is a common issue - are you able to take a slow-motion video of it to see if this is what is actually happening? PinballPro makes a simple mod to eliminate the bounce https://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-diverter-magnet-tz-dm/

TZ diverter (resized).jpg

In regards to the ball clipping the wire supports that are welded to the bottom of the wireform, yes that can occur. I have EL wiring on my wireforms that are held in place by plastic sleeves, this actually raises the ball slightly which minimises/eliminates the ball clipping those supports. Here is a picture showing the plastic sleeves on the wireform (game is currently stripped down)

TZ wireform to mini-PF (resized).jpg

#9188 11 months ago
Quoted from ceterumnet:

I ordered the magnet a week or so ago. But it actually happens more with the powerball. I was hoping there is another way to improve this.

It occasionally bounces off the diverter, but more often it is slung to the side when it goes to dump the ball.
I'll take some slow motion video to see if I can narrow down what is happening.
Thanks for your suggestions

The magnet will hold the ball to the diverter while it is flipped off the wireform, so less chance of it being slung to the side ... unless of course you do have some mechanical issue, so this is where the slo-mo video will help show you what's happening. Yep you're right, it won't help the powerball

#9210 11 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Nope. Comet TZ LED kit. I wasn’t necessarily talking about my pin..... just the TZ pin in general is a very pretty pin

Well yes on both counts - TZ is a great looking pin and yours looks awesome. I really like how that LED kit has lit up the PF ... will have to take a look at it for mine

#9242 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Perfect Play from Pinball Life. I put black in my TZ.
I had used Super Bands before. They seem more bouncy.

Do you use the PerfectPlay rings or sleeves as well? If so how do you find them

1 week later
#9270 10 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

Just joined the club today. Picked mine up in pretty good shape, got a steal of a deal on it either way. Having an issue with the lower left hand flipper, when I play a game it doesn't flip when the button is pressed. The upper flipper flips tho and the right hand side both flippers are working together. When I go into the test settings all the flippers test fine for the flip, and only the upper 2 test fine for the hold. The lower flippers wont hold and when playing a game the lower left doesn't work. Any ideas what the issue could be?

In switch test mode, when you press the flipper button and hold it in you should see 4 switches activated (if you stage the flipper it's 2 then 2). You'll see the lower flipper followed almost immediately by it's EOS switch, then the upper flipper and it's EOS switch. You'll see the 4 switches activate on the displayed matrix picture for each flipper button. Let us know what you see

#9273 10 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

Hey thanks for the input guys. I took the left side optic off and cleaned it and now it’s working. Pumped to plays some games on the machine now. One more question, I have this single connector underneath the play field that’s not connected to anything and I can’t find anywhere for it to go. Any idea what it’s for?
[quoted image]

Bit hard to tell what the coloured stripe is in the pic but yellow with coloured stripes are used for the lamps

If you go into lamp test mode, do you see any lamps out? Should be pretty easy to track down from there

TZ Lamp Matrix (resized).JPG
#9274 10 months ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

I believe that is for the flashers that were installed in the prototypes under the door inserts. This was left out of the production machines, but the connection was left in the wiring harness. So on production games, it connects to nothing.

Arhh yep - that makes sense. Nice call

#9280 10 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Good evening,
In preparation for my upcoming TZ, I'd like to upgrade the ROM to 9.4h. I have the programmer, however I would welcome the reference of the ROM chip to order, along with the ROM binary and it's reference.
With regards to ROM code, I found a ZIP file on VPForums, however it contains multiple files: tzu14_l2.bin, tzu15_l2.bin, tzu18_l2.bin and tz_94h.rom. I'm assuming that U14, U15 and U18 are other ROM chips, but not sure what they are needed for. And my understanding is that U6 should actually be the ROM code.
Could someone please confirm ?
Thanks and regards

U14, U15 & U18 are the sound ROMs on your audio board. Check if you have currently L-1 or L-2 (the game and sound versions are displayed when entering service mode with your diagnostic switches). Note the zip file contains the L-2 version if you don't already have them

#9284 10 months ago
Quoted from hawknole:

Hi, I am in need of this mini playfield opto bracket. Anyone have a spare, please PM if so. Thanks[quoted image]

That bracket assembly is A-16326 and just the bracket itself is 01-11215 - I took a quick look online across the various pinball suppliers world wide but unfortunately no luck.

Might be worth placing a wanted ad in the Marketplace. Good luck

#9290 10 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Hi, just joined the club. Having an issue getting the playfield set to the proper angle. May be more of a general pinball question, but it’s on this machine so starting here. Back feet levelers are all the way out (as high as possible) and front leg levelers are screwed all the way in, low as possible. Playfield is at 5.1 degrees. There is no more adjustment so now I’m wondering if the playfield was positioned wrong? Any suggestions on how to check, or just find longer rear legs?
I have an IJ to compare it to as another wide body WPC, so that may help figure it out?

Quoted from Boof-Ed:

The back legs set up in the correct bolt holes?

Just to elaborate on Boof-Ed comment - TZ has 3 bolt holes in the cabinet for the legs, believe you need to use the upper 2 holes in the front, and lower 2 in the back to get 6.5 degrees

#9300 10 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

That was it! Had to flip the brackets, golden now.
[quoted image]

So you have both the front and back on the lower holes - right? In thinking about it, it makes sense - the top holes (front & back) lower the overall machine for kids but keeps the angle the same. If you do one pair on the top and the other on the lower it'll give you either too little angle (as was your case) or too much angle.

#9305 10 months ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Get the real old timers here and they’ll tell you they paid less that a grand. The hobby has exploded in the past dozen years. It’s all good. Nobody is losing money like with other hobbies.

Yes I wouldn't suggest buying machines as an investment but it is certainly is nice that we're not losing money on machines. That said between the cost of mods and maintenance, there seems to be a constant stream of money flowing out of my wallet

#9312 10 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Yes. The front was on the lower holes already, and the back was on the top holes, so I couldn't get any angle. Fixed the back, and 6.5 was easy to achieve.
My fronts actually still had the 3 hole bracket on the inside, backs, I had to flip/move the two hole bracket down.
Was happily surprised that this machine has really clean original WPC boards (not sure if actually original to the machine, but not Rottendog). Still had batteries, so took them out immediately, a little oxidation on the ends. Need the NVRAM or remote battery holder. Any one kit/mod better than another?
Something that isn't a big deal, but bothers me (as I lay awake at night figuring out how to fix the most trivial things), my start button and extra credit button are not lighting. Switched out the bulbs, still not working. Everything else on the same color (row / column) works fine. I thought I saw a setting in a WPC menu somewhere to stop the start button from flashing during attract mode, but still think it would light up during the lamp test (which it doesn't). They are the only two things that are not working and it's sort of driving me nuts. Given that it seems like something somebody would have intentionally disabled (as they are the only things not working), any thoughts on what I might be experiencing or what I might look for (other than tracing the wires)?
And after even more play, this machine is great. A lot going on, a lot of great shots. Happy with my purchase, but I can report that I did not get it for $3k, lol.

The lamp matrix in the manual shows this column as Yellow-Grey on connector J138-9, however all the lamps are on the PF except the start button and Buy-in button so these will typically be wired separately. Looking at the Power Board it shows the PF column uses J137-9 and the cabinet column uses J136-3 and this is confirmed looking at the Power Driver board schematic as J137-9 and J136-3 are the same. So I suspect that J136 plug is not connected or has a broken wire.

TZ Lamp Matrix (resized).JPG
TZ Lamp - Column connections (resized).JPG
TZ Power Board - Lamp Column (resized).jpg

#9316 10 months ago
Quoted from cleanandlevel:

new to the club, where is the ball save feature? i looked through all the settings and can't find anything about ball save or freeze. thanks guys, this machine is exhilarating.

What's your ROM version? 9.4H added the ability to have ball save on beyond ball one

Need to have FREE RIDE TIME (A.2 27) set to non-zero.

#9317 10 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

It's called "Free Ride" in the adjustments....

Haha you beat me

1 week later
#9378 10 months ago
Quoted from PinJim:

What he said. Lol
Is anyone else a stock guy besides me? Almost all of my machines are dead stock, other than LEDs.

I have a few subtle mods to go on some of my machines but most are as I purchased and predominately stock. All plasma DMDs - I just like the classic look and feel of the machines

#9414 10 months ago
Quoted from Parker_tz:

My Twilight Zone restore is almost done. Faded to great
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow that's come up well - congrats on the job! Like the black trim ... was the PF restored or replaced with a repro?

#9447 10 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Ugh, that's a mod? I thought I got them all off (a pyramid and space ship!). I googled TZ playfield and saw this same clock mod on some other playfields (or at least one), so thought it was stock.
Other than the PinStadiums, anything else standing out on my playfield that looks to be a mod?
[quoted image]

Now you need to pop the hood, and let us spot any other mods that are under the PF

#9456 10 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Is that metal bracket stock ?

Boof-Ed TZ is a sample game, so guessing this is how they originally attached that spiral plastic


#9457 10 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Are those signs often missing?
My game does not have them.

The left spiral plastic was dropped on the production machines, while the right spiral plastic was changed to the "Shoot here to load Gumball w/Lit" plastic

TZ right orbit plastic (resized).jpg
#9495 10 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

So, you're saying it's slower!

It helps increase your ball game time

#9504 10 months ago
Quoted from Mickpat:

I am looking for the 4 screws that attach to the rear of the clock housing. They appear to be #6 32 x 1 3/4" course, but not sure. Any suggestions where to get these?

The TZ listing in ipdb.org has both the manual and parts list where you can find out the part number. The Parts List shows 4 x 4106-01013-28 "sms #6 x 1 3/4 p-ph t-25" as used on the clock. Then you can use www.pinballsearch.com to find the suppliers that have this part

USA - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4106-01013-28
Australia - https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/4106-01013-28.html
Germany - https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/screws/7368/screw-6-x-1-3/4-4106-01013-28


#9511 9 months ago
Quoted from Mickpat:

Can you use nvram and batteries at the same time? My CPU board has NVRAM but would like to keep the clock updated. Can I just add batteries or do I need to remove NVRAM first?

You can run both together - check out this thread where Sonic successfully tested having both installed


#9516 9 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Just joined the club. I seem to have an extremely early production machine... anyone have a date earlier than April 5th? There is some wierd stuff I've never seen before in my machine too. The back of this is different than the one I am used to playing on location. Looks like an extra magnet Shooter spring feels WAY too strong. Was this normal on the early runs or is that the wrong part? Anything else different to look out for on early runs? I see lots of mods and will be toning down the color LEDs a bit. Also, the leg mounting holes on this are... wierd. Even with the legs mounted high in the rear I can't get above 5.5% slope. What is recommended here? will adjust.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Boof-Ed picked up a sample game 26th March a few months ago - here's his post with various differences https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/184#post-5951064

#9538 9 months ago
Quoted from Mickpat:

I would like to upgrade my TZ to all LEDs. Who do you recommend ordering a complete kit from? What options? ie non-ghosting. etc. Thanks!

Depending upon what you like, a couple of the guys have recently put the comet LED kit in their TZ's with great results


#9545 9 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Hello all, what are the few key data points to help me figure out what I have? Born on date, is there a playfield date(?), I have the “flip here”, 2 or 3 magnet (how do I know?). Anything else?
As relates to the 2 or 3 magnet, is one better than the other? I’m seeing kits to go to 3 magnets, what’s the advantage of this presuming I don’t have it?
Does the 3 magnet version have 2 magnets around the right orbit? And then one above the left mini-flipper?

Checkout Boof-Ed post on various things on his sample game https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/184#post-5951064

The original machine had 3 magnets and would stage them for multi-ball, so is a cool feature but was dropped for production. Yes 2 magnets on the right side where the spirals are and 1 on the left orbit spiral. Here is the 3 magnet staging that Coyote did

#9560 9 months ago
Quoted from Jecco74:

Anyone have a source for a reliable clock?
I’ve reached out to the German company that sells one here on pinside. No response from them. I tried the rotten dog clock board and it’s not consistent. Fails to read optos often.
Love the game... Just need a reliable clock.

A few of the guys have the clock made by ramegoom (you can search for posts by ramegoom in this thread for more info or send him a PM)

Here is his website http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=82&product_id=1057

#9567 9 months ago
Quoted from antoniomauro:

Sorry for resuming an old post:
Could someone show me the location of this small clear plastics?
I know only the 31-1765-25 one...
[quoted image]

I could only find that one on my tear down pics as well ....

I then did a search online and it seems that this question continually comes up and other that this one plastic, nobody has been able to identify where the others were meant to go ...

20180413_123547 (resized).jpg
#9572 9 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

What in the flying f*ck is wrong with that TZ that's pictured? (Not yours, I'm assuming..)

LOL ... um yep it's mine

Do you like the ramp flap "enhancement"? Someone had put 3-4 layers of silver and clear tape over the ramp flap, not that I could see any damage on the flap or any reason for doing this ... my only guess is that it had some sort of ball hop they they were trying to address

#9574 9 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Hah! Where is your upper flipper plastic? And is there a normal bulb bulb plugged into the flasher socket there? And yes, I love the tape ramp.

Oh this was a pic as I stripped the PF to get it restored and I found all sorts of hidden gems like the flasher enhancement

20180413_123055 (resized).jpg
#9578 9 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Okay, your reputation isn't tarnished, then. That IS amusing, though. Suprised a normal #555 bulb would last long enough..

Just had a quick look at the tear down pics from under the PF and that lamp wasn't connected to the flasher - looks like it was piggy backed off a control lamp connector. As to why?? ...

1 week later
#9603 9 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

also the balls dont "stage" on the magnets like some peoples do when the multi ball starts. my game only has the 2 magnets, but i have the 9.4h rom. does it not stage because i only have the 2 magnets? and if so is there anyone out there who sells a third magnet kit?

Correct in a 2 magnet game the balls aren't staged onto the magnets.

There is a bit of work to do to install the 3rd magnet - this website might be worth reading http://gameroom.flipperwinkel.nl/games/dmdgames/tz/3rdmag/index_e.htm I couldn't find any kits available in my search

2 weeks later
#9658 8 months ago
Quoted from Jecco74:

Does anyone make invisi glass for TZ or voodoo glass?

Yep TZ just a standard B/W widebody - so you can get PDI, Invisi or Voodoo

JJP sells widebody invisiglass

Just double check the glass size before purchasing

#9679 8 months ago
Quoted from Jecco74:

Anyone know where to get the low profile switches for the upper playfield? Google search brings up an old website that doesn't appear to be monitored anymore.
I sent them an email months ago and never heard back.
Great Lakes Modular Logo

I believe Twister makes them - send him a PM

2 weeks later
#9868 8 months ago
Quoted from McDoom:

“Diverter” stays open some games and the ball auto plungers instead of passing ball to shooter lane so I can use the plunger.
Other photo: When I drain right away, the ball save doesn’t activate, I just loose the ball and it starts the next ball.
I hope I explained it better.
Thanks for any good advice.[quoted image][quoted image]

In regards to ball save, what ROM version do you have? I believe that the official releases only had ball save on ball 1(if enabled in the settings) while 9.4H has the ability to have ball save enabled on all balls (again via the settings)

#9880 8 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Holy cow, glad I'm not the only one and that my hours of aggravation could help someone else I'm playing mine right now!

What is your mod?

#9885 8 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

I am probably going to remote my battery pack rather than nvram on this game. I know both can live together but seems like a wasted effort to me.
I like the clock keeping time.
Before there was nvram i mounted the battery holders next to the coin box for easy change.
What are others doing?

Yes you can run batteries and NVRAM together (I read a thread previous where this was tested) ... although not sure what the point would be.

I run lithium batteries (not known to leak like alkaline) although I still prefer them off the board

#9924 8 months ago

Does anybody know what the part number for those PF plugs are or where you can source replacements from?

#9958 7 months ago
Quoted from gjk715:I just started playing my TZ after a long slumber. Everything was going well until I had a ball load that was recognized as the powerball until I realized that it was not the powerball but a large marble that one of my kids must have dropped in there. I removed the marble and now the ball release will not load a ball into the shooter lane. Another thing to note is that after playing a few games, I smelled an "electrical" smell. I did not see any smoke and assumed it was just the transformer warming up after a year of non use. I tested the ball release solenoid in the Tests menu and it fires as it should. I have owned this game since 2003 and this is my first issue. The test report at the beginning of the game does not show any problems. The game plays fine otherwise and I have not noticed any other play issues. Im not real technical. Can somebody please point me in the right direction as far as troubleshooting this problem? Any help is appreciated. Thanks

When you tested the solenoid, did it kick a ball into the shooter lane?

When you start a game, do you hear the solenoid firing?

#9972 7 months ago
Quoted from gjk715:

Also, I did not notice any burned components right away, but I know I have to do a more thorough search. Any idea where I might find the problem
component(s) or is it a matter of "anywhere"?

Looking a Pinwiki, it points to potentially the 10 Opto board - "The biggest problem for these boards is switch matrix shorts. If any of the power lines hits the switch matrix, it can easily destroy the LM339 and possibly its output diode. This issue will manifest as a ground short on one or more rows. It can be tested by removing the switch matrix connector. If the problem goes away, the associated LM339 and possibly its diode need to be replaced. If the short was from the 70V supply, multiple LM339s may be damaged. Replacing LM339s on these boards needs to be done carefully, as it is easy to lift traces and pull the through-hole plating. Always socket replaced ICs."

So pull the switch connectors off the bottom of the CPU board and power the machine on to see if the issue has disappeared. Let us know what you find

#9986 7 months ago
Quoted from pbjksb:

Newbie with pinball fixing with a question. Test report says clock is broken. Hour and minute hands rotate/move but not lined up at 12 at start of game. Inside clock ights also come one. What should I do or look first? Also, ever since the clock is broken, pinball power goes off and on again frequently. Thank you.

You may potentially have a 5v reset issue - does the reset occur when you press both flippers at the same time? If the 5 volts at the CPU drops below a threshold the machine will reset, while there are various reasons that resets can occur I'd suggest start by testing the below.

If you have a DMM measure the voltage on the Power Board at TP2 and on the CPU board at pin 32 of the game ROM - this link describes how to do the test https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Poor_Connections_between_the_Power.2FDriver_board.2C_the_CPU.2C_and_other_PCBs. If you are seeing a voltage drop then you need to potentially remove the Z connector or replace the power connectors and headers. Let us know what voltage you get at both points

#10001 7 months ago
Quoted from pbjksb:

Thank you. I will try that first. Will this fix the broken clock as well? TIA

Hard to tell what the clock issue is at this stage however I'd suggest focusing on the reset issue first - once you know the power is all good then you can look at any issues remaining.

#10037 7 months ago
Quoted from pbjksb:

Yes, power resets when I press both flipper buttons at the same time.

If you want a quick fix you can throw in a daughter board as ParisPinballAdct mentioned - I'd recommend a Kahr board (https://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html) who originally designed this fix. Note that this is not addressing the underlying issue that you have but it will get you up and going quickly. If you want to work through troubleshooting where the real issue is then I suggest to take a look at the Pinwiki link I posted previously, there's a good chance it's the Z connector which if you are into working on your machine is a simply fix.

#10043 7 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I had a re-import TZ from some bar in Germany. Had the same issue.....found a bloody tooth in the scoop!!!

Clearly the Tooth Fairy didn't manage to find that one

#10075 7 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

The door area in the center of the playfield was designed to use 4 flashers, using two small circuit boards for flash lamps under the large door panel.
This design is still in the manual, and shown in the red prototype panel.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
(Pictures from HEP gallery.)
During the conversation with Jimakost (he is doing a cool TZ scratch build), he mentioned that he is looking for lamp boards, including a door lamp board. My goal was to create a door panel with the integration of 4 flashers, operated by 4 different playfield flashers.
Aftermarket mods with small PCB only replace the GUM and BALL flashers, that's the only chance for sample/production games, only 2 holes are available for flasher extension.
The LOCK 1-2 flashers cannot be installed into these boards (unless you are ready to hack it) - there is no hole on the PCB for extra flashers.
Few years ago GLM introduced a lamp board with 4 flashers - however the control was based on only 2 playfield flashers (GUM, BALL), not 4.
My door panel contains all feature lamps (original twist-in design for bulb or LED's) and the 4 flasher area, controlled by 4 flashers as per designer's intention. Every insert area contains 4 small LED flashers for even light distribution, and the feature lamp remain in the center. Connection to factory lamp harness via plug&play harness, no soldering required.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Thanks to coyote for clarification of flasher locations. I can create more lamp boards, if there is a demand.

Nice work Davi!!

Do you have a rough idea of what the board would cost? And would you need a minimum number to make it viable?

#10102 7 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Thanks. I would wait a bit to check the interest.

Based on the response, I'd say there's "some" interest LOL

... probably need to make 15,235 (one for every TZ made) ... plus maybe a few for the scratch builds

1 week later
#10135 7 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

I have had the game for a couple of months and been playing it. Ball would occaisionally get stuck in the arch of the lock entrance. I would use a wire tie to push it around. Might not get stuck again for 30 or 40 games. I knew something was up in there. I am doing a tear down shop job soon. I would get "it" out then.
Well tonight it got stuck and she "passed a stone" so to speak....[quoted image]

LMAO I've seen it all now!!

#10145 7 months ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Hoping you folks can help me troubleshoot an issue...I recently tried replacing my Rottendog clock board for the LED board on Marco's site (listed below) and couldn't get the thing to work. The Rottendog board was still working like a champ but I wanted a brighter clock face. So while the new one lit up beautiful, the damn time was never correct and I kept getting the dreaded "clock is broken" error message. I ran a test and none of the optos were registering, so after multiple tries I gave up and decided to throw the old board back in.
Now the optos all work (no error message) but the time continuously sets at 6 o'clock, not 12. I've taken it apart and tried manually changing the gear position so the hour hand would be at 12, but when you turn the game on it keeps going back to 6!
I'm cool with sending the new board back if I have to, but does anyone have any suggestions for how I can get the time back to normal using the original board?!

Believe you have installed the hour hand 180 degrees out - hence you are seeing 6 o'clock on the hands but the game thinks it's showing 12 o'clock. Just need to change the hour hand (as it can go on in 2 positions - one is correct, the other one isn't)

#10152 7 months ago
Quoted from Piso:

While tearing down my TZ I noticed that under the ramps there is some double sided tape without the protective film removed. Don't know why. Should I replaced it after the playfiled restoration?
[quoted image]

Yes mine was the same when I tore it down. I didn't replace it (was told it wasn't needed) but interested to see what others have to say

#10161 7 months ago
Quoted from mikusm:

Finished up a shop out and now the ball is bouncing off of the diverter and the diverter is actuating before the ball gets back to it. What is the issue/fix for this? Thanks!

This is a common issue - you can stop the metal balls bouncing by adding a magnet to the diverter (won't stop the power ball bouncing back). You'll find posts in this thread showing what people have done themselves or you can buy this one https://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-diverter-magnet-tz-dm/

#10186 6 months ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

Finally became a TZ owner tonight. Still in the vehicle but should be getting it out tomorrow morning! [quoted image]

LOL great photo and congrats on joining the TZ club!!

#10197 6 months ago
Quoted from twinmice:

Does anyone have any leads on one of these? This one is ruined. Thanks Mike Paris
[quoted image]

I've not seen the 03-8835 face plate remade with the 4 legs - the replacement versions I have seen have a flat face plate with 4 separate plastic tube spaces that you slip onto the screw when assembling the clock. I bought mine from Pinbits but they are currently out of stock - maybe reach out to them and see if they are planning to restock? https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_2&products_id=160&zenid=801112576e9d75853242d89aab4f69c3

Alternatively you could buy the face plate here https://pinball-parts.shop/kategoriesuche/spielfeldteile/plastics/30931/clock-face-twilight-zone?c=270 although it doesn't look like it comes with the spacers, so you could attempt to cut them off your old face plate or look into whether you could make them or something suitable

1 week later
#10214 6 months ago
Quoted from Plungerboy:

Hello friends! I am looking for an assist on troubleshooting here. My new to me TZ has played pretty well the first month, it had some issues with the slot kick out being loose that were easily resolved and a couple solder points on coils I have fixed.
This weekend I got “into the zone” and when finished the mode the game was unable to refill the gum ball due to lack of power on the auto plunge, although it tried, and the ball count was off rendering a very good ball 1 unplayable. It took a few ball dumps and resets to get things working again, but I did get it resolved.
My next “into the zone” didn’t fare as well, after halfway through the auto plunger stopped working completely, and game froze when all balls drained. I messed around with power off like any good 90s Windows kid, and when that didn’t work I tried pulling all balls manually and figured out I had a power issue to some of the playfield / Coils.
I found fuse F112 blown, and can easily replace that and intend to take apart and clean the auto plunger coil and order parts for a rebuild there.
What else should I be looking for or concerned about, with this fuse blowing? This is my first older game and don’t see much in this thread particular to that issue, so appreciate any insight anyone can provide-

F112 is the 50V circuit that drives all the coils. These are split up later to 5 separate circuits protected by F101-F105 - I firstly suggest checking that these fuses are the correct fuses (you'll find the list of fuses in the manual - which if you don't have it can be downloaded from ipdb.org). Sometimes fuses will go simply because of their age otherwise (and more likely) a coil has locked on and caused the fuse to pop - turn the machine on (if any smoke or burning smell turn the machine off) then go into solenoid test and verify every coil works - this will determine if there is a damaged coil that needs to be fixed (it may cause one of the above fuses to go again). Let us know how you get on

#10215 6 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Just occurred to me to ask here.
So I moved my TZ into my friend’s house on a temporary trade for an Avengers LE yesterday. All was good prior to moving, once we got the TZ up my hill, into my car, 30 minutes away, down his steps, and set up, the sound no longer worked. No start up tone, no noise at all coming from the speaker. Everything else seems to be functional (a 3 ball silent game). After 2 hours of troubleshooting. We determined all LEDs on board worked according to manual, all fuses were good (removed and tested with multimeter, all connectors reseated. Finally we discovered no power was coming off of J114 on the P.C.B. to the audio board. We tested on the pins on the PCB. Well crud, moving the TZ is a pain, so how to fix remotely. He is a pin guy. We removed the TZ PCB board which had visual repairs on the back, but had never given me issues. I took the P.C.B. out of the Twilight Zone home and put it in my ST:TNG. It worked flawlessly, to include power coming off of the J114 connector. If I unplug the J114 connector in my ST:TNG the sound stops. So there was power coming off of J114 in the ST:TNG but not in the TZ using the same board. I left my known 100% and working perfectly PCB from my ST:TNG at my friend’s work this morning and hopefully that works tonight.
My questions are, is there anything I am missing? In the event that 2 separate boards (will test tonight) when inserted into a machine do not have power coming off of J114, one of them a known 100% good and tested 24 hours earlier, what is my next troubleshooting step? What step before the PCB that could go wrong would cause J114 to not get power but only J114? Other than throwing in the known good board, what else is there?
Thanks for your troubleshooting help!

J114 provides both 5V and 12V to the CPU board and 5V to the audio board - so if J114 had no power the game wouldn't have booted. Did you happen to test TP2 & TP3 when the Power Driver Board was in the TZ (as these are directly off the same wire trace)?

3 weeks later
#10286 5 months ago
Quoted from Alby87:

Shouldn't the Fliptronics board automatically switch from power to hold after some seconds? It's not ideal, but still a failsafe measure.

Guess it was more about keeping the cost down and that they were only designed to have a life of 3-5 years so the EOS switch was simple and effective

#10302 5 months ago
Quoted from atg1469:

I’m sure someone’s run into this before, but my upper left flipper is stuck open. Bottom left works as it should but the upper one is stuck. It goes back down when the ball drains but as soon as you launch a new one it automatically flips up and stays there. Any thoughts?!

Based on this it's an electrical (not mechanical) issue. Check the EOS switch on the flipper mech isn't stuck closed

#10320 5 months ago
Quoted from EJS:

Out of curiosity, which would you all favor?
Full production TZ mostly stock couple mods, great playfield, cabinet SLIGHTLY faded. Basically really solid throughout.
Early game with factory 3rd magnet, green lock light, clock etc early mini PF. Mini PF is perfect but main PF has a small crack from the right flipper going almost all the way up to the player piano. Not horribly noticeable and shouldn’t impact ball bath. Cabinet is almost perfect excluding a hasp hole.

I'd go the early version with the 3 magnets, just because it's different to the bulk TZ's out there and the staging of the balls for multiball is pretty cool - bit more of a collectors item

#10322 5 months ago
Quoted from EJS:

What’s different with the staging? I’ve played a 3 magnet game years ago but I was new to playing TZ at the time so may not have taken notice. (I’m well versed in the regular TZ format as I’m on my second regular TZ)
EDIT; ok I see you just added a video haha

This is the original magnet toss, but I'm not sure if you need to run an early ROM version or if it's available with the later versions as long as you have the 3 magnets - maybe Coyote or someone with a 3 magnet machine can chime in

#10336 5 months ago
Quoted from EJS:

A little cringe worthy?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Well at least you know the PF under the mylar is in good condition and if you're not a fan you can always remove it. Mine came off quite easily when I got my PF restored

#10338 5 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

I don't believe that's mylar that you are seeing, that's a crack in the upper layer of wood. Look at it go around the door inserts....

Yep didn't pick that up looking at it on my phone ... hmmm that's a bit more of an issue

1 week later
#10351 4 months ago
Quoted from hawknole:

Took just over 6 months to get from boxes of parts to finished TZ, plays great, working on tweaking a personal PinSound mix, may release a pure mix in a little while
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great job hawknole - what's the protective plastic on the cabinet decals (last pic)? Did it come on the decals (are they radcals??) or is this something you've applied to protect the artwork while working on the machine?

#10363 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Flaky Upper-left Flipper: Please Help Me Troubleshoot
The upper-left flipper works fine in test but usually won't fire during gameplay. If it *does* fire, it does a little flutter. Like, it flips, then semi-flips immediately after, only it happens quickly enough to look like a spasm.
Former owner reseated the connectors in the Flip-tronics board in the head and swapped out the flipper opto for a leaf-switch version. Mind you, the "new" flipper switch is not simply a leaf switch as it accepts the connector that a flipper opto board would, etc. I would post a photo here but the machine isn't handy. It's kind of a hybrid thing. Perhaps it doesn't belong, but the flipper didn't work with the stock opto either. Will it be necessary to replace the Flip-tronics board in the head? If so, are they available and at what cost?
How else should I chase the problem? I have a multi-meter if that's called for.
Thanks in advance.

If you go into switch test mode and then press the left flipper - it should be staged such that first the lower flipper switch is activated and then as you press the button in further the upper flipper switch is activated. When holding the button in do you get any flutting on the upper flipper switch? This will help determine if the issue is associated with your flipper switches or not

#10365 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks, Manny.
Pressing the left flipper button in test mode fires only the bottom left flipper.
No stage, no nothing from the upper.

Here's some info to help https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#FlipTronics_Games_Electrical_Reasons

It's probably worth checking that the fliptronics board and upper flipper are working correctly, as well as the connectivity between the flipper switches and the headbox

#10371 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks, Manny, for the link. I will do some reading there.
Thanks, Scotty, for your suggestion regarding the coil itself. I don't have a replacement coil, but I can order one from PinballResource.
Today I will swap out the Fliptronics board for one that comes from another machine whose flippers are working properly. That will help me rule out my board if nothing else.

Hey Jason - can you post a pic of your flipper switch as you mentioned that the original opto board had been swapped out for a hybrid leaf switch that had the original cable connector plugging into it. I have leaf replacements on a few of my machines, but curious what this switch looks like

#10377 4 months ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

So, I’m thinking of putting radicals on my TZ. Any thoughts on how this product looks on a TZ? Is it a significant improvement if you do not have a great deal of fade?
Still thinking of putting in the Pinsound board as well. I wish it just had an upgraded version of the original music of the machine upgraded and improved with more depth and what not. Interested in testing different packages though, is there a clear leader?

hawknole posted his resto the other day that has radcals on it and they looked great https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/207#post-6306795

#10383 4 months ago
Quoted from Piso:

Hi, who makes TZ stainless ramp flaps? Pinbits doesn't seem in business anymore...

Mantis makes them - https://mantispinball.com/product-category/twilight-zone/

#10386 4 months ago
Quoted from Mickpat:

Today the DMD screen on my TZ started to scroll / flicker as shown here. I have checked to ensure all of the ribbon cables are secured by pushing in on all the connectors. Nothing has changed. Maybe its time to upgrade to a color screen. Any ideas?

This looks very similar to the WPC-95 "Rolling" Horizontal Line, so possibly a failed capacitor on your DMD controller


#10392 4 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

- how does the game detect the powerball is in play. It seems to be able to detect at multiple locations

There are 2 proximity sensors, one in the trough (A-16534 switch 26) that senses the next ball to be kickout out into the shooter lane and the second one in the subway (A-16535 switch 57) that senses the ball as it passes from the dead end/gumball and camera shots down to the slot machine kickout. Note shots to the piano and slot machine won't go past the sensor. Also if the game hasn't detected the PB in a certain number of games, it assumes the senors aren't working and will automatically play a powerball every 6th (??) ball that is plunged.

#10418 4 months ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

for the triple stacked plastics in the left corner by the gumball, what are the product numbers for the plastic standoff posts?

Download the TZ parts list from IPDB - this will show you the specific parts and quantities used in each of the assemblies

#10430 4 months ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

I did but did not see the standoffs in the assembly.
Probably just reading it wrong

Think Davi has helped you out, but thought I'd share how to read the Parts List - the first column indicates the assembly/sub-assembly/component level, followed by the part number, description and quantity used for that particular assembly/sub-assembly. So in the below it shows all the components used in the plastic assembly for the top left hand corner - the assembly itself is marked as Level 2, so everything below it until the next Level 2 item (not shown) is part of that assembly. The components are marked Level 3 however H-16619 (3 bank flasher cable) is actually sub-assembly, so it's components are listed as Level 4. Now you were after the part numbers of the stand-off posts but depending upon the description B/W used that may or may not be obvious, however if unsure you can copy the part number of what you think might be the right one and look it up at Marco's. Also if you are struggling to find availability of a part, searching suppliers for the assembly or sub assembly or sometimes even some of the other parts in the assembly can help find that elusive part.

Another tip if trying to find which suppliers have a part in stock, is to use https://www.pinballsearch.com which will search all the main suppliers around the world.

Hope this helps

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#10433 4 months ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

Does anyone know if the led on the larger board is supposed to be on or not? Mine switch 26 is failing. resetting the connections isn't fixing.
Isn't there a better fix out there? (and maybe a replacement product)

The LED should be off but turns on when it senses a steel ball. If the LED is permanently on, you most likely have a break in the inductor or it's connection. As Mad_Dog_Coin_Op indicated soldering the 2 wires from the inductor board to the larger proximity board will remove a common connectivity issue found with these original boards. Also twist these 2 wires as it helps reduce interference to the frequency that the board is checking for.

Here's a set replacement boards (with an adjustable pot for calibration) if you need https://www.tanglestech.com/Twilight-Zone--Trough-Proximity-Eddy-Sensor--Replaces-A-16534-and-A-16528-Switch-26_p_36.html

#10435 4 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

How is shipping to the us? I just ordered

Typically 2 weeks however last year was up to 2 months with Covid. I think things have returned more to normal and there's no issue if you use a freight company (eg DHL or FedEx) as they have their own planes, it's a bit more variation using post that I believe heavily leverages commercial passenger flights.

Let us know when you receive it as it'd be interesting to know

#10440 4 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I need the sensor too. This is eddy board only

The ad does say "board set", so I think it would have the 2 boards - could always ask

#10453 4 months ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

New to TZ club, so I must admit I lack the context of this discussion... Would you mind elaborating? Seems some boards are going bad after a whole, and the replacement boards are hard to get?

We have been discussing Switch 26 which is the trough proximity sensor, that has 2 small boards to detect whether the next ball going into the shooter lane was the power ball - the smaller board had an inductor on it and was placed close to the trough while the main sensing circuit board, that the inductor connected to, was more out of the way. B/W improved the proximity sensor switch throughout the 90's with it being used in various machines however TZ was (possibly??) the first and while it worked there were various issues. Having no micro adjustment on the board to calibrate the sensor meant getting the inductor close enough to reliably sense the ball without it being damaged or crushed by the ball, the connectors had to withstand a lot of vibrations due to its location between the trough and 2 shooter lanes, the board senses frequency changes in the inductor but this can be affected by interference by the near by coils.

Most after market replacement boards (for all boards) look to address any of the short comings in the original design, some will use the latest components while others will balance this with keeping the look of the board the same as the original. And also remember that some electrical components simply weren't designed to run for 30 years. So to your point about boards going bad, yes boards do die however in most cases particularly on the larger more expensive boards the failed components can simply be replaced - for example the high voltage section of the DMD controller board and the capacitors on the power driver board; although sometimes it can be easier to replace a board especially with the smaller less expensive boards (such as the TZ trough proximity sensor to make use of some design improvements) or for example major battery damage on the CPU board. Replacements for the vast majority of boards are available, although the people that make them can vary from time to time. Some people will carry spare boards, such that they can keep the game running while the failed board is repaired however carrying spares for everything is expensive - it really depends upon how many machines you have and whether they are common components across them (I've got a bunch of spare boards and haven't used one yet ... touch wood).

Hope this helps

1 week later