(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago

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Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (3 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (1 year ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (4 months ago)

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#5865 3 years ago

Hello all - new member here. I just pick up my Twilight Zone Friday. Somebody has butchered it a little and I'm in the process of sorting it out. I have a backboard question. Please see photo. The middle piece was my backboard and the top peice was shoved in front of it to block the view of the wires. The bottom peice is my homemade replacement. Has anybody seen a short backboard like this before? Also, what are the metal brackets for. I can't figure out when they would come into play but I saw them on other TZs so I installed them on my replacement. Thanks in advance.

20180519_183752 (resized).jpg

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#5870 3 years ago

Still sorting out my “new to me” TZ. Got a question about how the mini playfield is attached. Looking at the sticker on the bottom of the cabinet it says to loosen nut A and B and removed screw C. My A connection doesn’t have a bracket attached to it. Only the B side does. I think I’m missing the A side bracket. Does anyone have a photo of it or a source to purchase it?

#5871 3 years ago

Forgot the diagram.

20180521_152539 (resized).jpg

#5874 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I will go through my teardown pics tonight. I have one somewhere.
Bother side front starposts should have a bracket attachment, yes.

I thought it should. Any help is greatly appreciated.

#5876 3 years ago

Oh Yeah - That's it. Any idea where a can score one? Haven't seen it at the "usual" places.

#5877 3 years ago

It seems like the mini playfield bracket I’m missing is a bit of a problem child to source. Please see above photo. Can someone maybe sketch it out with measurements so I can make one? Thanks in advance.

#5894 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Looking from the back of the playfield. (Front of playfield towards top of image.)

Things are looking up. Thanks to Coyote for providing me the picture of my missing mini playfield bracket. Because of the picture I new what it looked like and since I have the game a was able to figure out the height it needed to be. I first made a paper template and then cut a new one out of sheet metal. The end result turned out fairly good.

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#5908 3 years ago

Hello All - I was thinking about getting a new Twilight Zone Mirco Repro Playfield set for my game. How is the quality? Wanting to get some feedback before I pull the trigger on it. Also, I was wondering which one I should get (the 2 magnet or 3 magnet version). Your input is greatly appreciated.

#5912 3 years ago

OK - I'm sold on the Twilight Zone Mirco Repro Playfield product. Now, which repro TZ playfield should I buy (the 2 magnet or 3 magnet version? If I go with the 3 magnet version - what else do I have to purchase?


3 weeks later
#6001 3 years ago

Hello all,
I need a little help here. I’ve had my TZ for month now and just finished with my “to do list”. It looks great now. Of course, as you're working through any good “ to do list” you always find other things to do. That leads me to my current problem. The last thing I did was rebuild my playfield clock. The thing passes all tests and works as it should. It even shows the time set on the pinballl machine. The problem is, the time never advances on my MPU. It holds the time I set but never advances the time or date so my playfield clock always shows the same time when the game is in attract mode. If I change the time on the mpu it changes my time on the playfield clock but neither will advance on their own. Anybody have any ideas?

#6003 3 years ago

No NVRam here. Just have the remote battery pack on this one. I think I’ll pull the batteries and let it go back to factory settings. Don’t think I have ever done it on this game since I’ve had it. Who knows, I might get lucky.

2 months later
#6193 3 years ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

As had been mentioned to me by Coyote, the recommended fix for this is to cut off the connectors at both ends, twist the wires, and solder the wires directly to the pins. I did this with my glitchy sensor, and I have not had a problem since.

I totally agree. Cutting off the connectors sounds like a hack but it is a necessary evil. Those wimpy pins can't hold up to the vibration of all the coil activity in that area of the playfield. I directly soldered a single twisted pair of data line to the underside of the two little boards and never had a problem again. Doing it to the underside of the boards always gives you the option of going back to the cable with the connectors if so desired.

#6211 3 years ago

There has been a lot of talk about flashers lately and it got me thinking about my game. All my flashers work as they should with a big pop of light when I run the flasher test except one. The one in question is in the light pole. There is actually 2 bulbs that flash when testing that circuit (the one in the bottom of the mini playfield and the one in the light pole). The mini playfield works perfectly while the light pole flasher barely does anything. Is this normal? Thanks in advance.

#6213 3 years ago

Yes, I have tried different bulbs both LED and old school with no change.

1 week later
#6242 3 years ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

Where does this plugin I cant find a plug
[quoted image]

I think that one goes to the switch on the ramp. Here is a couple shots of mine.

20180831_165721 (resized).jpg20180831_165855 (resized).jpg
#6244 3 years ago

Hey TZ fans. I bought this little guy awhile ago and was trying to figure out where to stick him in the game. He is just static but I think he adds the correct vibe to the game. Took me a while to figure out how to get him to stay in that spot. I finally decided to run stainless steel wire through the inside of his clothes to keep him secure and to hold his pose. I haven't seen one added to a TZ before and thought it looked kind of cool.

#6245 3 years ago

Sorry, the photo was on my phone. Had to make a second post.

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#6246 3 years ago

Here is the back side. He is connected in two spots.

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#6248 3 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I would stick him in the base of the cabinet, right at the back.

Tried that first. The viewing angle was wrong. Couldn't see the face while playing. My next choice was next to Robbie in the middle back. That was ok but the two toys were kind of close to each other.

1 week later
#6293 3 years ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

tried an original 555 bulb and does not work. used the light in the start button and it doesnt work in the buy in button slot. when i measure the voltage in the socket i am only getting abou 1.5 volts max. If i measure the voltage in front of the diode i get 7 volts. I used a 1n4004 diode is that the correct diode. not sure what else to check here? any help greatly appreciated!

The bulb should be a 555. Funny, I don't remember a diode on that switch. I'll check mine out tomorrow.

#6297 3 years ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

tried an original 555 bulb and does not work. used the light in the start button and it doesnt work in the buy in button slot. when i measure the voltage in the socket i am only getting abou 1.5 volts max. If i measure the voltage in front of the diode i get 7 volts. I used a 1n4004 diode is that the correct diode. not sure what else to check here? any help greatly appreciated!

So the buy in button has a diode while the start button does not. Interesting. Anyway, I bet your socket is just flaky. Install a known good 555 bulb and start the light test for that light only. Jiggle the terminals on the back of the buy in switch while the test is running. I bet you can get it to work. Seems like those sockets are a little unreliable in my opinion. If that doesn't work you have a broken wire or a bad transistor.

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2 weeks later
#6388 3 years ago

Hey TZ fans - I have a strange issue or maybe I don't. I'm not really sure. My game plays great. I have a newer Rotten Dog MPU installed with the remote battery pack and fresh batteries. About every 10 to 15 power ons the game reports "factory settings restored". The funny thing is my settings are all still there including free play. I just ignore it and continue to play on until it show up the next time. Is this one of the undocumented features????? Anybody else seeing this?

#6400 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Hmm... Didn't know that Rottendog mpu's had a history with draining batteries. That would explain why my Congo went through fresh lithium batteries in less than a year lately. Expected them to last a long time but only went around 9 months.
If you are having worst problems with batteries, I would look into nvram. Not sure if that is a pain to put in a Rottendog board but it sure is nice not to have to deal with batteries. You loose some features like the clock telling the correct time but I wouldn't call that a big deal if you have to change batteries often.

It does seems like the Rotten Dog board is eating my batteries. The batteries are testing weak after only a couple months. Got to have my clock working so NVRam isn’t an option on TZ for me. Has anybody tried a memory capacitor on a Rotten Dog MPU? In theory I think it should work.

#6407 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Your clock is still going to work with nvram. It just won't show the correct time in attract mode since the time will reset every time you power cycle the game.

Yeah - I realize that but want I it to display the correct time because I’m anal like that.

5 months later
#6884 2 years ago
Quoted from Ben38:

The vertical wood plate at the end of the playfield is missing on my TZ.
Can anyone give me the dimensions of this plate?
The height and thickness. So I will be able to build a new one.

Check my post 5865 in this thread. I had the same issue. The plywood is 3/4” thick and it is 6 1/2” tall. The width is the same as the playfield.

#6888 2 years ago
Quoted from Ben38:

Thanks a lot for the informations ! I will have a look to the post you suggest.

No problem but I told you the worng thickness. It should be 1/2".

1 week later
#6943 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I don't think its so bad... it's not like detailed board soldering. It can be done with a basic soldering iron and basic skills. Youtube has some tutorial videos.
Hey, I have a question for anyone who has rebuilt the clock mech. I am assembling now after cleaning and I am wondering if the plastic gears should be lubricated or if they are better left alone.

Lube them. Your clock will be much quieter. I use teflon made for skateboard bearings. Works great.

1 month later
#7014 2 years ago

You also should consider replacing that cap if you haven’t already. Old caps can cause all sorts of sound issues.

3 weeks later
#7104 2 years ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Hello guys my TZ is missing the bracket that goes under the mini playfield. It is this two-part assembly in the attached pics, do anyone has a spare that could sell to me? Or can you suggest a website that sells it?? Thanks!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did anybody chime in on this? I need the smaller of the two parts also. Had to fabricate my own but would love an original.

#7128 2 years ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

As someone may have mentioned before, that might not be sufficient. It will work perhaps in the short term, but as time goes on, with vibration and all, it might work its way loose again. See how it goes, but the only true solution is to solder the wires directly to the pins on one end, twisting the wires, and then soldering the other end.

I totally agree with this. The problem will return until the wires have been soldered in place. I soldered to the backside of the boards. It seemed a little less offensive visually.

4 months later
#7550 2 years ago

Is it just me or do others feel my pain? Lifting the playfield on my TZ is challenging. It’s doable but takes some effort. I think it is just because it is a wide body and there is so much stuff mounted on the playfield. The playfield also likes to bind along the sides on the way up and down. For that reason I would never consider using art blades on this title. I always cringe when I use the playfield prop stick. Seems like it is being stressed to the limit. It is very rare that i can get the playfield to locked into place on the first try.

1 week later
#7596 2 years ago
Quoted from mathiaswallin:

My mini-playfield stopped working all of a sudden, magnets doesnt move balls anymore. Entry-switch as well as magnets works in test. I'm clueless.
Could it be something as simple as the balls or where should I start?
Also the gum ball Popper doesnt work, How do I check if the Opto is broken or clogged or whatever the fault might be?
Could it all be connected and its something with the opto-board?

Start by checking all the fuses with a multi meter. My TZ likes to pop a solenoid fuse if I lift the playfield will the balls installed in the gumball machine. Because of that I always remove all the balls before lifting the playfield and never had a problem again. If you lift the playfield with the balls in the gumball machine one always falls into the opto sensor path and causes the solenoid to fire when you turn on the game. It seems that extra power draw is just enough to pop the fuse.

#7617 2 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I might be going mad but I turned on my TZ this morning to check something, and whilst the Grand Champion score was right, the other ones were default scores. I'm almost certain they weren't the last time I used it as it would be pretty fantastical to have a GC score with none below it. The game booted without complaint or error (so not "Factory Settings Restored" or anything). Any ideas?

Are you still using AA batteries? Weak batteries can cause issues. You start losing some settings while others remain. You can swap them while the game is tuned on if you're careful. That lets you retain the settings / scores you have left.

6 months later
#8589 1 year ago

Got a knocker question. My knocker sounds pretty lame. I dug into the mechanism and found it to be the wrong part number. The book says it should be a AE-23-800. If memory serves, this era game doesn't use a diode in the assembly. Is that correct?

#8600 1 year ago
Quoted from harig:

IIRC the diode is on the PDB board thus not needed on the coil though does not harm if installed there as well...

Thanks for the confirmation. I thought it wasn't needed but stuck it on there anyway (just in case my memory was failing me). My knocker is now nice and loud and the extra diode won't hurt anything.

4 weeks later
#8682 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Started a tear down today. WTF was I thinking ?!?
How do you guys deal with the plastics that have rivets? I don’t have a riveting tool; thinking about just doing nuts & bolts to replace the plastics that have embedded light sockets.
Also: how in THE HELL are you supposed to remove the gumball machine? I can’t figure out the plastics and the gumball itself to clean what looks like 20+ years of grime.
Also also: since I don’t have the flasher sockets and my plastic set didn’t come with any, I may have to leave the existing plastics to the left of the gumball. That’s gonna bother me!

Rivets are easy. Drill them out with a good 1/8" bit from the underside. Usually I just pop rivet in the replacements (aluminum rivets). Pop rivet guns are cheap and used often in pin repairs. Old school rivets aren't that bad to deal will but do require a little skill. If you do pop rivets make sure you also buy the correct size aluminum washers (sold in the same isle). The idea is to sandwich the pinball plastics between the pop rivet (top side) and aluminum washer (bottom side).

#8684 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I appreciate the encouragement. Are pop rivet tools available at Harbor Freight, for example? (Just noticed an ACTUAL store near me). I don’t care quite as much about authenticity but if it’s low risk to destroying the plastic I’ll give it a shot - otherwise it’s nut & bolt combos from here on out..

I have never broken a plastic with a pop rivet gun (knock on wood). Harbor Freight does carry them. Just don't forget the washers.

1 week later
#8729 1 year ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Picture of the cards installed. This is just standard stock paper cut to 6" x 3.25". I'm quite happy with these.
[quoted image]

Those new cards do look pretty good. Thanks for doing these.

20200603_180657 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#8763 1 year ago
Quoted from Rydhia:

I messed with it for a bit tonight. It looked like the lamp was cut off and never soldered back. The molex connector was still plugged and the yellow and red wire was there. I soldered it into a lamp. It works, but when a bulb is plugged in, the slot machine and gum all lights stay lit or get brighter, so I’m kind of lost.
Attached are the two connections I’m referring too (image from google)
[quoted image]

So you said you put in a new lamp. I assume that it was a new socket that you installed. Did you also install the diode? Coyote is correct when he says it might be a diode. Looking at the photo you provided it appears the red wire gets the diode and the diode band should be facing away from the socket. If you implement that fix, your problem should go away.

2 weeks later
#8813 1 year ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Need some quick help. For some reason I disconnected this molex connector from the power driver board. I can't seem to figure out where it goes and don't want to guess. I think it looks like it would go into J122, BUT the board connector seems to be one pin bigger, so that makes me think that isn't right.
Anyway, here are the pix. Any info would be appreciated...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Do you have a color DMD in your game? That looks like the high voltage cable needed for the OEM display. Not needed if you now have a color DMD.

#8829 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I have one of those. It's not fiber optics though; it's EL-Wire shining into holes punched in a piece of black metal glued on top of the routed-out backboard. That looked GREAT when I first got it. A few years on, you can't even see the light, because the wire has dimmed too much. It is a royal pain to replace, so I am considering just getting a backboard sticker.

EL wire has a very short shelf life. Making mods with it is usually a bad idea. Hopefully it didn't run you too much.

3 weeks later
#8913 1 year ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

I added new sound and cpu Roms today but my display slowly get squiggly after about 30 seconds of leaving it on. Any idea why this is happening and what to check?
[quoted image][quoted image]

That’s kind of on the weird side. I take it the sound and game play fine after the chip swap? If that is the case, you probably just need to reset the ribbon cable that goes to your display. It probably shifted a bit went you did the chip swap.

1 week later
#8939 1 year ago
Quoted from HC2016:

Having an issue with ball getting hung up leaving mini playfield ... Dropping down getting hung up on top of the metal flange . Seems like it’s not moving back to its original position. I bent it back and was working for a few days .. now it’s hanging up again . Looks like the metal gate is hanging up . Maybe needs lubrication ? Just wanna see if anyone has have the same problem

I'm confused by the metal gate comment. A picture showing the problem area might help. First thing that came to mind for me is your balls are magnetized and need replaced.

#8966 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

So installed the push rod on the correct side, and now it works. My only complaint on the diverter now is the fact that it doesn’t sit as low as I would like. It works ok, but it looks like the rod is about an 1/8 inch too short. I wonder if this is the difference is because I’m using an after market playfield?
Also...MY CLOCK IS LOUD!! any tips for quieting it down?

A properly lubed clock is still audible with the glass on but it has a nice controlled mechanical sound. One in the need of a lube job sounds painful like it is about to burst under stress. Clean and lube the gears with Teflon and I think you’ll be happy with the results.

2 months later
#9149 11 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

The opto design flaw was due to inferior semiconductor materials used on the original 1990s components. Electronics have come a long way since those days. The adaptation of RoHS (non Pb content) has forced semiconductor design to accommodate higher temperatures for normal operation.
Current design opto couplers have overcome the reliability issues. Also, one of the biggest problems with the original clock board was the use of four socketed incandescent lamps mounted parallel to the circuit board; they collectively produced excessive heat which damaged the glass epoxy PC board material and copper traces, and prematurely aged the opto couplers, resulting in electrical failure.
That's all been prevented by the use of LEDs. This design uses 12 LEDs to evenly backlight the clock face, with minimal heat being generated. They have been in operation for years now, with near zero defects. The simple design is efficient, without the use of additional components and poses no issues with setting failure codes.

So my TZ came with a Rottendog clock board. It seems like the company takes a lot of heat on Pinside but honestly I have never had a bad product from them. I did notice that your board design has more LEDs installed. Is it safe to assume more light? I would like my clock to be a little more flashy if possible. Do you have a video of it in action?

#9159 11 months ago
Quoted from Ben38:

The backboard is missing on my TZ. (the wood board at the end of the playfield)
Does anyone can send me the size of this part? I will cut and paint a new one.

Mine was missing also. It is 6 1/2 inches tall and the same width as the playfeild. Below is a link showing my replacement.

#9202 11 months ago
Quoted from ceterumnet:

I have a question regarding my TZ's bridge diverter. I was having problems where it was ejecting balls sideways 25% of the time, and then they would get stuck because of my robot mod...I've attached a pic.
I was able to improve the percentage to something more like 10% of the time by adding a washer next to the c-clip of the shaft that the diverter rotates. Also, I played with bending the shape a little of it to see if I could improve it.
I'm starting to suspect that it might be inconsistent power from the coil. But I'm definitely not sure.
Does anyone have any additional suggestions?
PS> My game is level in both directions per my digital level.
[quoted image]
EDIT: I forgot to mention one more thing: There are 2 of the horizontal steel supports for the wire form right before the diverter, and the ball rolls over those almost like speed bumps...this occasionally causes some weird motion. I wanted to also validate that the ball should be hitting those or if that is something that needs to be adjusted as well.

Here's my fix to the problem. The wire form keeps things in check. Not a fan of the magnet. It doubles the weight of the mechanism.

20201112_194316 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#9325 10 months ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

I pulled the LEDs and put in bulbs. no light either. With the LEDs I have a very faint glow on a few.
I've read some of what emsrph linked (but need to spend much more time there).
What I've done so far:
- determined it is the orange / white-ora string
- Swapped J121 and J120 connections. (same issue as expected since I think they are just connected pins)
- Continuity test passed for Orange wire from connector to end of line (last lamp socket)
- Continuity test passed for White-Orange wire from connector to end of line (last lamp socket)
- 5v tp = 4.91v (12v and 18v also tested okay +/-. I didn't write them down but they seemed close enough and I don't think they are involved in this issue)
- Fuse F109 pulled out and continuity test passed
- put in regular bulbs and they don't work. LEDs bulbs are new and have tested as working.
Decided to see what J120 pin 2&8 let to. Well, about as far away as possible. Ended at mini-playfield lamp flasher (x2) (two flasher bulbs of 3 in the silver "street lamp" looking thing over the mini PF) Did a test of those flashers and no workie. So...
...at this point it seems it is upstream of the J121/120 connection and not the fuse since that tested okay.
What voltage should I be expecting at J121 (pin 2&8) Orange (do I connect DMM red lead to pin2 and black lead to pin8?)
What voltage should I expect at the last backboard socket of that orange string?
What voltage should I be expecting at J121 (pin 3&9) Yellow (this set of lights works)
What voltage should I be expecting at J121 (pin 5&10) Green (this set of lights works)

Sounds to me like a problem on the Power / Driver board. Most likely a bad trace. You should be able to tone test J115 to J120 / J121. There should be 5 sets of pins that tone out (1 set for each light string). If one is missing you have a bad trace or solder joint. This is a very common failure due to the heat associated with these circuits.

#9328 10 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

So I put brand new batteries in my machine the other day when I got it home and it seemed like it was keeping memory but then today I turned it on and said restored factory settings. I checked the voltage of the batteries and they are all good. any ideas?

Time to replace the battery box. Acid probably took out one of the battery contacts. Not that hard to do.

#9360 10 months ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

My KAHR board comes today. But still managed to go through pinwiki and troubleshoot the double flipper reset problem. Did most of the easy stuff and things checked out ok enough. I didn't change pins/connectors and fully expect them to be the issue. (or at least a strong contributor to it) Kept plugging through the list and read about the Z connector. Then kept going down the list. Getting done/checking all the easy stuff. No fixes found yet... Now needed to consider doing the harder steps... Then recalled I never reset the Z connector. Did that and "fixed" the issue. I know connector resets are temporary fixes. Removing the Z connector would fix it for good.
Here are some of the readings I got.
TP1 14.14v (12vu) (what does the vu stand for? unregulated voltage? if so, what does that mean?)
TP2 4.912v (5v)
TP3 11.96v (12v)
TP6 75.5v (50v but 75 is "normal" per wiki)
TP7 22.45v (20v)
TP8 17.6-18.2 (18v) this floated around quite a bit. Not sure if that is normal or not.
CPU pin 32 4.872v (5v)
BR2 8.5v (top left lead) I didn't know how to hook DMM up for other BR test(s)
My understanding is 5v feed is main driver for double flipper resets and 4.9+/- is probably cutting it close to the cutoff which is why it has been resetting.
Some solder joints were touched up on driver board so those are looking good.
So, based on the above, anything I should check out further? My thoughts are:
1) Replacing pins/connectors would be a good course of action
2) Remove Z connector and hardwire
3) Reassess
4) Replacing the LM323K 5V regulator with more modern one sounds like a good idea
5) I do have some of the blue capacitors (Philips) (not on MPU board but on Power driver (and sound? board)) Sounds like they are a common failure point but I don't know what failure behavior results in.
With this all said and about to put in the KAHR board, is any of this necessary? (sounds like no based on my reading)

The KAHR board is more of a bypass than a fix but it should take care of your problem. Usually resets are caused by a failing cap I believe at location C5 on the power driver board. These are though to replace If you’re not up to the task. Multi layered boards are a real pain to desolder and it is easy to screw up and cause more damage.

1 week later
#9412 10 months ago
Quoted from Parker_tz:

My Twilight Zone restore is almost done. Faded to great
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great. I think it deserves a color DMD. With all those bright colors the current DMD seems out of place.

4 weeks later
#9595 9 months ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Anyone have an unused, no fade, right side cabinet decal they would sell?
[quoted image]

I would say just live with the faded decal or do the entire cabinet. Getting a next gen decal would likely be easy but would look funny when compared to the OEM stuff. If the fade is bugging you the aftermarket decal being different looking will drive you just as nuts. The really good stuff is the silkscreened decals but they are a premium (but worth it). Next gen is ok but you would need to do everything. Radicals are great too but that is a totally different look.

1 week later
#9623 9 months ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

My TZ arrives in about 6 hours!
Can I join the club!!!

As long as you provide photographic proof.

2 weeks later
#9764 8 months ago
Quoted from Matrixnetuk:

hey guys is there a way of stopping or slowing down the rebound from the slot machine target
I have replaced the old bent and battered target with a new re-enforced target it has reduced the number of air balls but im still getting rebounds that i cant even see with the naked eye
Also rebounds are hitting the glass and in some cases are hitting the outlane backboards and straight out its pretty vicious

You can bend the target forward a bit or do this. Works for me.

55EE5B35-D89E-4BA8-8786-F7C658AD9B60 (resized).jpeg
#9800 8 months ago
Quoted from atg1469:

I recently purchased a TZ and overall the game plays pretty great, but the more games I've put in the more often I've had an issue come up with the ball getting hung up in the piano trough. Every time it gets stuck its just resting on the inside right hand side of the trough and I have to take the glass down and nudge it into the hole (the game can't find it otherwise). It's tough to get a pic of but I did my best to capture what's going on. Still, I have no idea how to correct this issue, any thoughts?!
[quoted image]

If there isn't some sort of debris hanging the ball up in that area, my guess is your balls are magnetized. Replace them and see if the problem goes away. Also make sure your are side to side level and the pitch is correct.

#9876 8 months ago
Quoted from THJM:

Thanks. Any ideas as to how to start diagnosing this other than swapping boards? I have read through each of the club forums for my three machines and I don't recall anyone having a similar issue.

My guess is it is a voltage thing. The OEM batteries were 4 1/2 volts while I bet your coin battery is only 3. You need more juice. Just install lithium batteries in the oem holder or go with a remote battery pack.

#9926 8 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

I am looking to put all LEDs in my game.
Do i need to add OCD board(s)?
I want all LED, so do i need a board for GI and Feature lamps?

You don't need them. I recommend just installing some quality bulbs and reassessing after doing so. I don't have them in my game. You do loose some dimming effects but it is minimal in my opinion. You can always install them after the fact.

1 week later
#10011 7 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

i would love to buy the pinbits gumball light kit but the website says its always out of stock and i never get any replies back when i email them. has anyone had any luck contacting them?

I just call them during normal business hours. They are usually able to help me out.

2 weeks later
#10138 7 months ago
Quoted from damadczar:

Anyone on here know where to get a new repro or NOS Twilight Zone speaker panel plexi screen?
Mine is beat to hell and before I go experimenting with sanding it to make it better wanted to see if there were any way to get a nice replacement, just in case.

Looks like these guys have it in the Netherlands.


#10140 7 months ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Classic Arcades sells reproductions on Ebay for 100 bucks. I bought an Indiana Jones one from them when restoring, they are exact replicas.

I hope it was better than my Playboy pop caps from them. Those were total crap. The thickness was very inconsistent and looked awful when illuminated.

#10169 7 months ago
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:

Cheers to yours answers guys.
Well, there is no (apparent) broken weld.
However, YES the screws may be the issue: it's not that they are loose so to speak (they aren't) but more that they turn in a vaccum.
I have a pre-series TZ and there are 3x screws (i think the "normal" TZ have 2). well the middle screw is fine. however the other two, although not loose (can't turn them with my fingers for instance), turn in a vaccum if I am to use a screwdriver on them.
I have tried filling the holes with toothpicks many times and it works great, but after a little while, back to square one: I have to fil in the holes once again, re-tight the screws and the kick out is perfecft for a while...until next time.
it's not a killer, just a bit annoying to have to pop up the hood after every other game to do this procedure

Sounds like it is time to drill out the playfield holes and wood glue in the appropriate sized wood dowel. Make sure you don’t drill to deep. I always mark my bits with tape. Glue in the dowel, let it dry, sand it flush and then re-drill with a 3/32 bit to create a new pilot hole. Should be good as new after that.

2 weeks later
#10216 6 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Just occurred to me to ask here.
So I moved my TZ into my friend’s house on a temporary trade for an Avengers LE yesterday. All was good prior to moving, once we got the TZ up my hill, into my car, 30 minutes away, down his steps, and set up, the sound no longer worked. No start up tone, no noise at all coming from the speaker. Everything else seems to be functional (a 3 ball silent game). After 2 hours of troubleshooting. We determined all LEDs on board worked according to manual, all fuses were good (removed and tested with multimeter, all connectors reseated. Finally we discovered no power was coming off of J114 on the P.C.B. to the audio board. We tested on the pins on the PCB. Well crud, moving the TZ is a pain, so how to fix remotely. He is a pin guy. We removed the TZ PCB board which had visual repairs on the back, but had never given me issues. I took the P.C.B. out of the Twilight Zone home and put it in my ST:TNG. It worked flawlessly, to include power coming off of the J114 connector. If I unplug the J114 connector in my ST:TNG the sound stops. So there was power coming off of J114 in the ST:TNG but not in the TZ using the same board. I left my known 100% and working perfectly PCB from my ST:TNG at my friend’s work this morning and hopefully that works tonight.
My questions are, is there anything I am missing? In the event that 2 separate boards (will test tonight) when inserted into a machine do not have power coming off of J114, one of them a known 100% good and tested 24 hours earlier, what is my next troubleshooting step? What step before the PCB that could go wrong would cause J114 to not get power but only J114? Other than throwing in the known good board, what else is there?
Thanks for your troubleshooting help!

I hate to state the obvious but sometimes those are the easiest things to miss. Did you check the 2 fuses and the fuse holders on the audio board? This seems like a bad fuse or broken solder joint to me.

#10224 6 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Wondering why those leads were swapped in the first place?

I think the simple answer was it didn't make a difference when it was incandescent bulbs so nobody cared including the assembly line folks.

1 week later
#10263 6 months ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Everyone has different experiences. The upvote & downvote button is there for just that reason. It's not a "Bible" LOL. Reproduction translites and speaker panels are just what they are- imitations of the original, therefore they will never be the original. To expect that they would be is setting the bar too high, and setting yourself up for disappointment. IMO. If it's really that important to be exactly like the original, then hold out for an original to pop up somewhere.

Normally what you say is true but when vendors flat out lie like Classic Arcades they need to be called out. This photo was taken from thier current TZ speaker panel listing.

Screenshot_20210426-211948_eBay (resized).jpg
1 month later
#10359 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Please advise me on replacement legs. The stock legs are rusty. I can't polish them back to life.
The Service Manual in section 2-3 shows a cabinet parts diagram and C-10843 for the "metal leg assembly."
Looking on Pinball Life for this part number shows leg sets for System-Eleven games, not WPC89. Are these legs sufficiently tall? Standard length should be 28-1/2", correct? No mention in this listing of length.

The ribs are wrong on those. Most sites are out of the correct legs for some reason. PBR still has them.



#10390 4 months ago

Just think of the power ball as a progressive jackpot. There is no way around it unless you ad a second power ball to the game. As for power ball detection, there is a metal detector in the ball eject area and a couple under the playfield. If the switch is activated and the game doesn’t detect metal it assumes the power ball is in play.

1 week later
#10432 4 months ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

Does anyone know if the led on the larger board is supposed to be on or not? Mine switch 26 is failing. resetting the connections isn't fixing.
Isn't there a better fix out there? (and maybe a replacement product)

Break out the soldering iron and solder the wires directly to the pins between the 2 little boards. Your connectors have failed. No need to replace them because they will only fail again. It sounds like a hack but that component needs a rock solid connection to work correctly.

#10463 4 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Finished shopping out my machine.
Everything works well except the lower left flipper.
Starts out strong but warms up and gets weak.
Is this coil wired correctly?
[quoted image]

It looks to me like the wires running to your end of stroke switch might be making contact with each other.

4BC8E885-2A53-4605-ABB7-2E1EAEA0BA45 (resized).jpeg
1 month later
#10688 3 months ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

Yes, the black sockets should be 545 blinkers.
I bought these : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152953759556

Funny - I didn't realize the blinking sockets were black. Someone prior to me installed a color changing random blinking LED behind the TV on the backglass. It makes it look like the tv is working (or at least trying to). It would like to get a few more of these but can't find them. Anyone have a source?

#10690 3 months ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

I actually put rainbows behind the clock on the translite to match the playfield clock, which is running rainbows on Ingo's board. Looks really nice.
At any rate, you can get LED versions of blinkers and the rainbows at Comet.

I thought Comet too but they don't have any that color change randomly and blink.

#10719 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Looking at the door PCB those header pins still potentially have issues. Do a connectivity test on your DMM between the pad and the header pin - I think you'll find some pins need to be reflowed

I see the same thing - cracks in the solder joints.

#10720 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Measured at the pads.
Having the same issue with this board.
I reflowed solder at these pins, too, but the procedure makes me nervous as each solder point is perilously close to its neighbor. Risk of shorting seems high.
Also, voltage test on the connector shows a variety of voltages, but there *is* voltage at each/every pin for both of the problem boards.
[quoted image][quoted image]

What type of solder are you using to reflow your joints?

#10754 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I brought my mini-PF to Lloyd's and connected it to the harness in his game. Switches, opto, and lamps: yes. Magnets: no. Does anything in this photo jump out at you? I have continuity from the main magnet connector to each magnet connector (violet and violet/white). Remember, my Spiral magnets work, and I already tested my 8-high power driver- and power-driver boards in Lloyd's machine. Is it a grounding issue? I assume that if the the mini-PF weren't grounded properly the switches, opto, and lamps wouldn't be working - but they *did* work in my test swap. It still seems so unlikely that *both* magnets have somehow failed. I mean, I would expect a magnet to fail about as often as a standard coil - which is to say rarely if ever.
I brought my ailing lamp boards to Lloyd's and they work fine in his machine. I guess I have to clean my connectors somehow.
I borrowed Lloyd's Fliptronics board and installed it in my game. Flippers worked normally. I then put my own board back and they did not. Lloyd's inspection of my board pointed to the bridge rectifier - which he then graciously replaced - but it didn't revive the board.
[quoted image]

Have you Ohm tested your magnets? Sorry if I missed it. You should be able to tell instantly if your magnet coils are good. They do fail. They should test at about 4.5 Ohms. Just set your meter to Ohms and place the leads on each wire running to the coil.

#10756 3 months ago

The magnets are controlled by J124 pin 1 / 2 and J109 pin 5 / 7. How do they look? Q24 and Q26 are the control transistors. Check those out too.

#10757 3 months ago

How do you know the mini playfield magnets aren’t working? They don’t work in test or they don’t work in actual game play? There is an opto that gets tripped when the ball goes to the mini playfield in game play. If that isn’t working your magnets won’t. Check out that opto in the switch test.

#10760 3 months ago

Sorry, just looked at the manual. It is switch 44 (not a opto). Make sure that is working on your game.

#10762 3 months ago

Are you sure fuse F103 is OK? Double check it and the fuse clips with the multimeter.

2 months later
#11284 20 days ago
Quoted from cconway84:

Twilight zone blacked out with rainbows end prismatic metallic. Looks mostly black with flake indoors but shows it’s rainbow effect when it catches the light.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That does look good!

#11321 15 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

No balls are left in the trough when I achieve multiball (I removed the apron and looked? It’s empty)
The balls are locked and not releasing when multi ball is achieved. What’s my next step in fixing this issue.
(I did a test and the lock seems to function correctly (releases ball during the test).[quoted image][quoted image]

Go into the test menu and empty all balls. How many did the game find? I’ve seen balls get trapped in strange places and the game starts acting funny because it is down a ball. The count should be 5 regular and 1 power power.

#11331 15 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

6 balls are in the game.
I disconnected and reconnected the wires to the “10 opto switchboard” the game behaves the same as mentioned above but now, during multiball, the lock will release the balls about 3 minutes after the mode is started (so no balls on the playfield until the lock randomly decides to release the balls after 3-4 minutes.

How many balls are staged in the gumball machine when you start a game?

#11333 15 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

I believe it's 3 balls.

Ok - you need to verify that. Here is what you need to do.

1) Remove all balls from the game using the option to do so in test.

2) While the balls are removed toggle over to switch test and take a photo of the results on the DMD and share that with the group.

3) Turn off the game and add the 6 balls back in the game.

4) Turn on the game and let it stage the balls. Pay attention to how many get loaded to the Gumball machine. And report back the findings.

5) Go back into test and look at switch test again. Take a photo of the DMD and share with the group.

One of us will do the same and we can compare the results. It will have to be another pinsider because my TZ is at my vacation house.

#11337 15 days ago

Perfect - Can one of you guys with a fully functional TZ repeat the test so we can compare? See post 11333.

#11387 10 days ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

I finally joined the club, and by that I mean the club of people with a 5V problem. My TZ was a little flaky with resets for a long time but re-pinning and re-connectoring J101 helped... then wiggling J101 helped... but now the game won't even boot and the 5V LED is out. So, maybe J120 was a red herring, or just one of the problems, as 5V is now completely gone.
Several years ago, this game did have BR2 replaced, and it didn't seem to make a difference in the occasional resets I had at that time. (Yay shotgun solder-and-pray fixes.)
The game has NOT had the Z-connector removed.
I do have a Kahr board knocking around.
Of course I will study the wiki resets article but if anyone has additional suggestions I'm all ears.
(I don't have a passion for maintaining the original circuits, so if there's an easy way to add a reliable external 5V supply, that would be interesting too.)

Sounds like your 5v voltage regulator failed. Check the fuses and test points to be sure. If it did, replace it with one of these: https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5/

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