Hopkins, MN
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Why would Rottendog load an old ROMset?
Rottendog shipped it with old ROM. Person that replace the CPU stuck in the ROM from the old CPU. ASIC chip too.
LTG : )
(Topic ID: 63352)
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Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Did I disrupt ground by pulling this old bill validator?
110 volt AC. Hot and common. You didn't disrupt ground by unplugging it.
Easy to turn game off. Plug it back in, leave it hang in there. Turn game on and check.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Did I disrupt ground
That got me to thinking. Maybe nothing. Just to keep eliminating things.
Try removing the fliptronics board. Clean the pads on the back that touch the mounting posts on the back wall. Then clean the top of those posts good. To be sure that board is grounded in the game good.
Problems here always seem to involve the fliptronics board, that you know is good. And all the other boards work good so we know they are grounded good.
LTG : )
Quoted from Manny65:What was the issue
A quick summary. His flippers and magnets on mini playfield don't work. He has tried his boards ( Fliptronics, magnet board, and driver board ) and ribbon cables in my game. They work in my game.
He hasn't tried his flipper button opto boards in my game, I don't know if his flipper button opto boards work in switch edge test in his game.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:these pins,
Are dirty. Female part inside connector may be dirty too.
LTG : )
Quoted from Manny65:I'd suggest reflowing the header pins anyway as they don't look great.
Or bring them in. I'll do them.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Not sure as my test method is apparently flawed.
In circuit isn't the way to check a diode.
Bring the board in. I'll clean it up and try in my game.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Diodes all have approximately identical readings.
They aren't your issue.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:I don't really know what more there could be to reflowing solder at connector pins.
Suck off the old solder. Flow on new.
Clean pins. Clean inside female connector.
LTG : )
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Is there any kind of fix for this??
https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-slot-machine-scoop/ it has a tab protruding from the side to stop the target.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:You're telling me the wire could well be broken despite the continuity?
The meter is on zero. If you have continuity, jumping it won't make it any better.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Now to figure out how it connects to that socket. Does it go to the banded end of the diode?
Compare to your other sockets. All wired the same. Only the stripes on the main color are different.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Now to figure out how it connects to that socket. Does it go to the banded end of the diode?
Two wires. Red with violet stripe. Both go to the same lug. For shoot again lamp.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Please tell me where this mini-PF corner-protector mod is available online.
Cliffy : http://www.passionforpinball.com/tz.htm
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:I did *not* imagine it would disable the magnets entirely!
Depends on how it's wired. Right flipper button opto board has to be plugged in for the left flipper button opto board to work. The left one gets it's power from the right.
LTG : )
Quoted from Kare9:Ball trough have ball marks on it?
Older style ball trough. Marks ( divots ) common on newer ball troughs with opto boards.
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:If I were to guess, your left trough switch (#17) is acting up or sticking.
Or hit twice with ball bouncing back because of missing wireform.
LTG : )
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Now, the game only sometimes recognizes the power ball.
It has no way to recognize it. It detects metal. So if switch before and after get hit and not metal sensor triggers- POWERBALL !
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Ideas sought.
Manual has the pinouts for the clock board connectors.
If the clock works and no GI. I'd concentrate on the playfield GI connector lower left corner area of your driver board.
Wiggle it, see if they come back on.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:By "clock board" are you referring to the 8 Driver PCB Assembly?
No. Board inside the clock. Page 3-18 in the manual.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:I wonder if the fact that I have all my bulbs removed from my backbox is mucking things up.
No. Backbox and playfield are different.
Do you have power leaving GI string 3 from the power driver board ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Which pinout
Take you meter, set to AC. See if you have AC on all the playfield lines leaving the driver board. If so then see if power is getting to the clock board connector for the LEDs.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:but not seeing it.
Swap backbox and playfield connectors on the driver board. If clock doesn't light up you know it isn't a board issue. Then from the connector to the board in the clock you have a break.
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:If you are using most boards OTHER than Ingo's and OEM, yes, they have their polarity wrong for the OCD boards.
The boards came from Marco. And were working until Jason was trying to get the flippers going and other things.
LTG : )
Quoted from nerdygrrl:I can't see how I would have mixed them up as they didn't get removed until I went to clean the ball guide and then they went right back on.
Maybe they were wrong before you started ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:I've never had any luck extracting a pin from a Molex connector, but I will try.
Push tab in on the back of pin and pull up and out.
LTG : )
Quoted from DumbAss:I don't know what the product is
That is what I was wondering. WTF is it ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Twister's switch have a tiny resistor onboard or a diode?
That is a diode.
White wire/black end of diode to NC. Green wire to NO. Silver band end of diode to C.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Twister's switch
If you use the left side. White wire to WI. Green wire to GN. Then don't put a diode on it. There is one there.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:I have no idea what a switch-impulse extender might look like or how it would be wired.
BOOM !
LTG : )
Quoted from Manny65:Mine had washers top & bottom of the spring, plus another above the bracket before the nut.
My game didn't have them.
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DSC00557 (resized).JPGQuoted from Manny65:Out of interest what is the build date on your machine?
04/05/93 It's a sample game.
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Quoted from Green-Machine:I’m curious about how long were they in production?
About 9 months. Many changes during that time. Sample prototype stuff ended in a month or so. Grapefruit colored pop bumper cap, third magnet in, two posts by pop bumper, green lock light, missing flip here on mini playfield, too short metal supports to rest playfield on, sticker on light by right ramp, white clock face. No sunburst behind Rod on back box side art.
Things slowly changed. Flip here on mini playfield, magnet pole removed for third magnet, eventually no hole. Two posts by pop bumper removed, black plastic plugs in the holes, eventually no holes. Multi colored clock face. Longer playfield supports to rest playfield on. About 1/3rd of the way high power interlock switch installed but not wired in. Last third of the run had it wired in. Starburst added to backbox side art behind Rod.
No rhyme or reason on translights. Seemed like they had two stacks. One with stars cut out one without. Didn't matter when the game was made. You got one or the other.
LTG : )
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:Any help would be greatly appreciated!
If it goes up when you turn the game on - bad transistor.
If it goes up when you start a game - diode on the coil issue - broken off or broken leg.
LTG : )
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:Can a diode or diodes be bad and how do you check?
Youtube - lift one leg and check with a meter.
Tests - Switch Edge - slowly puch in your flipper buttons one at a time - be sure both optos on each board are reporting on the DMD.
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:but I have no idea where this came from.
I've run into it on Addams and TZ. Leg broken on diode. Flipper goes up at start of game. Replace diode. Then it worked.
Since that fixed it. I didn't reason beyond it. I quit when things are working.
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1 week later
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Can I safely substitute the Stern coil?
Yes. If the Stern coil has a diode on it remove it.
23 or 26 is the wire gauge. 800 or 1200 is the number of turns. Less turns stronger coil, more turns weaker coil.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Buy another DC Motor Control Assembly board?
Won't help.
Check if clock hands are warped and not always doing a good job.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Buy another clock board?
Borrow my brand new spare one. If it works, buy it.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Is this normal clearance for these two parts?
In my experience, too close.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Could I have magnetized balls after a few dozen plays?
With shiny balls, yes. Put a paper clip near it and see.
LTG : )
Quoted from VancouverNinja:I was wondering if anyone knows where I can purchase the mini switch replacement kit for the Power playfield?
Send a pm to Jason_Jehosaphat and ask where he got them.
LTG : )
Quoted from PinballAir:Does anyone have a pic of an original side of the head.
I want to know if the hinge screws are mill finish and if the cabinet corner screws are "blued" or painted.
This help ?
LTG : )
DSC00560 (resized).JPGDSC00561 (resized).JPGQuoted from Green-Machine:You beat me by a one second Lloyd
You helped too.
Mine is a sample head and yours is a production head. So both versions are covered.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:It appears that my Trough Proximity switch isn't working, since the game no longer announces the Powerball when it's released into the shooter lane. The Powerball is only recognized by the Slot Proximity switch in the subway.
Your game doesn't know what the f*** a power ball is. The sensors only detect steel balls. So if a non steel ball goes by, but micro mini switches before and after it are hit but no steel ball is detected, then the game thinks POWERBALL.
Go into Tests - Switch Edge - roll a steel ball by the inductor and see if it works. It most likely is, or you'd have POWERBALL for every ball, steel or not.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:The wiring is fine.
I'd take a meter set to ohms. And check each wire from the coil to the driver board. See if one side is drawing ohms. That would point to weak connector or solder joint along the way.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Open/closed
Please post a picture of the top.
That metal plate isn't setting on the coil right.
LTG : )
Quoted from Gingerbloke:I which case I guess I need to follow the cable for that row right?
If it started after you replaced switches. You might have wired one wrong. Every switch in your game is wired the same. Easy to check and compare to other micro mini switches.
White wire and black end of the diode to a lug. Green wire to a lug. Silver band end of the diode to a lug.
LTG : )
Unless you see an individual piece on Ebay, the full set might be your only option.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-1765-COMP
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Switch wiring confusion:
No confusion. The switch in your game has a lug missing. The positions are the same, marked or not. Look at the end of it, see a lug cut off. And quit showing pictures of the switch installed in the bakelite sides.
Wire it like I emailed you.
LTG : )
IMG_0616 (resized).JPG 1 week later
Quoted from McDoom:How do you fix this problem?
Check it over. Dirty, need cleaning ? Kicker not hitting the ball dead center ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:As a matter of fact, no, I do *not* have any pad there. There's no hole there to accept a grommet.
He's thinking of the later ball trough assemblies which are different than the one in TZ.
LTG : )
Quoted from Ditch_Digger:Why would players not want this setting…what’s the deal?
Game missing powerball or sensor for it at end of ball trough not working ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Ditch_Digger:I’m about to Jason the hell out of this forum.
Jason_Jehosaphat You're famous now.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:as though the operators were so exasperated with the game's complexity that they didn't bother to rout them and instead just stored them,
No. TZ was a commercial flop. Had nothing to do with the game's complexity. They were too hard and didn't get much play on route. That is why when Williams closed you could find nice ones cheap. As in under a grand.
And became a boon to collectors who could get a great DMD pin cheap.
LTG : )
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:depends what you mean by commercial flop.
Fair enough.
Williams thought it would rival TAF in numbers built and made them for 9 months. Distributors thought the next Lawlor pin after TAF would sell great too. And operators probably did too. So a lot were sold.
On the street it was up against people working harder for less money. And coin op entertainment often forgets the entertainment part. At that time a lot of players wanted entertainment, not a job.
So TZ performed poorly in earnings for operators. Which is why in 1999 when Williams closed. There were a lot of TZs in good shape available at a great price.
LTG : )
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from billsfanmd:link to his site?
https://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html
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1 week later
Quoted from atg1469:Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Be sure no broken wires and your ball trough switches are working right.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from horseflesh:you have to figure out a way to hold the ball.
Stick it in the end of a pvc pipe.
LTG : )
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:MillWax has been in use with pinball operators since several decades.
Comet cleanser was used by pinball operators for years too.
And over the years we keep learning better products to use to protect our games.
I prefer things that don't eat the container they are in, lift the edges of mylar, melt the bottoms of plastic star posts.
LTG : )
Quoted from billsfanmd:working on my TZ..where can i get the right size and strength magnet for diverter?
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-magnet-coil-20-9247.html
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1 week later
Quoted from misterman:What is the usual cause of this and some tests or things to look for.
Tests - Switch Edge - place a steel ball next to the sensor at the end of the ball trough - does switch #26 report on the screen ? If not fix that. If so, check your other ball trough switches and shooter lane switches.
It can't sense the powerball ( ceramic ) it goes by the other switches and sensor to see if a steel ball went by or not.
LTG : )
Quoted from jackd104:Can the bulb in the extra ball button be replaced
Yes. 555 in there.
Quoted from jackd104:I thought it could be replaced but in trying to take apart the button it’s not budging
Leave the switch on it, more to grab. YANK, TWIST, PULL, it can be stubborn. Snaps back into place hard too.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from arthurrag:During flipper test when you select the hold selection, the flipper doesn't move, just a low buzz. Is this normal or should it flip albeit weakly?
Normal. With your hand hold the flipper up then test hold. t should hold it up.
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Quoted from AD72:The game plays fine. What should I be looking for with this error?
Run the gumball machine test and see if the geneva switch registers when the test is running.
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Quoted from arthurrag:Also, when I have a screw hole which needs some tooth picks, should I wood glue the screws in?
Just the hole and tooth pick. I like bamboo skewers.
Quoted from arthurrag:should I use wood glue on all the screws on the underside?
No.
LTG : )
Quoted from billsfanmd:Finishing up a TZ...the mini pf is missing all 5 rubber switch covers. I see pinball life sells 2 sizes. Anyone know how many of each and where i can get the metal clips that hold them on? Looks like they just screw onto the small screws that hold the switch in place.
If yours is an early game. TZ didn't have them.
One of the many changes over the course of production.
LTG : )
Quoted from damadczar:How do I remove these flaps?
Cut the rod they pivot on. Remove the rod. Make new rod and squish the ends when it's assembled.
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1 week later
Quoted from billsfanmd:What do I check for this?
Switch #26 the sensor at the end of the ball trough. Reseat connectors, check in Tests - Switch Edge - roll a steel ball to it and see if it registers on the screen.
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Quoted from billsfanmd:Thinking best way is just to buy both sides.
Yes, start over new both sides is best.
Check them first for wires broken off of the opto.
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1 week later
Quoted from palmab03:thanks! Looks like switch 54. I can manually get it to register, but when a ball goes through it doesn't seem to lift it high enough to touch
Carefully adjust the arm of the switch. Adjust past the body of the switch, not over the body, this could screw up the flat blade of the arm pushing the tiny knob into the switch body.
LTG : )
Quoted from palmab03:Is there anyway to stabilize it left to right?
Two sets of nubs on there - move it to the other one or get a new switch.
LTG : )
Quoted from billsfanmd:My guess is the optos are just set to low in the housing.
Put a small piece of black electricians tape on the arm. And or it might be a little warped.
LTG : )
Quoted from Skatewake:I have no idea what it is for
Weld on wall break and it's holding the shape.
LTG : )
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Any ideas ?
Assuming it is an easy push or medium push switch, learn to adjust it better.
If it's a hard push switch, dump it, not meant for pinball.
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Quoted from Flipperfun:So I figure it is the ceramic power ball and maybe 5 or 6 steel balls?
5 steel one ceramic.
You can always check the manual.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:You can always check the manual.
Page 1-2 in the manual. Twilight Zone is a 6 ball game.
Download here if you need it - https://www.ipdb.org/files/2684/Bally_1993_Twilight_Zone_Operations_Manual_OCR_searchable.pdf
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1 week later
Quoted from PinballHaven:appears they are on all coils.
Quoted from bakerhillpins:That era game does have the diodes on all the coils.
Only on flipper coils. Coils with three lugs.
No diodes on all the other coils with two lugs.
LTG : )
Quoted from PinballHaven:Thoughts?
Remove coil stop, slide coil off and leave hang. Top of coil stop concave or worn ? End of plunger have a sharp edge or mushroomed ? Is the pawl catching the end of the EOS blade ? If so rebuild it.
Does the flipper bat have a tiny bit of up and down play to prevent binding on the nylon bushing ?
LTG : )
Quoted from arthurrag:They go in but sit in there and do not roll out.
Anything broken off and stuck in there ?
Coil bracket loose and ball not sitting right to get kicked out ?
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Quoted from arthurrag:Further investigation showed me there are actually two optos for each side and therefore one opto for each flipper.
On the flipper button opto board.The top ones are for lower flippers. The lower ones for upper flippers, lane changes, entering initials, etc.
Quoted from arthurrag:Are many games like this?
If they have more than two lower flippers, yes.
Quoted from arthurrag:Is there a reason for this?
Same as with mulitple leaf blade flipper button switches. Different duties. And players can trap balls and hold with one flipper and play with the others.
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1 week later
1 - heat
4 - Pinball Life bolt and this - https://www.absolutepinball.com/shop/pivot-nut-1-2-for-playfield-support-williams-bally/
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3 weeks later
Quoted from BadBrad97:I just never can find the wiring diagram for it,
The game has it. Tests - Individual Switch - stop on the switch you want. Hit the start button. Then hit the "+" diagnostic button to step through switch name, wire colors, connector info, etc. etc.
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1 week later
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:I had no memory of ever seeing a midnight madness mode in the game but believed what I read as I never play pins in the middle of the night.
Set the time on your game so midnight is happening during the time you do play your game. Hours faster or slower as needed.
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Quoted from DumbAss:I'm pretty sure Twilight Zone doesn't have this feature.
I didn't know. Thank you.
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1 week later
Quoted from Babysha:explain me wiring please.
One switch each side gets a diode. Second switch each side is just jumpered to the first switch.
Switch with diode. Look at all your stand up targets - all wired the same. White wire black end of diode to a lug, green wire to a lug. Silver banded end of diode to a lug.
The jumper wires - follow the two blades that make contact at the top. Jumper wires go to those blades each switch.
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1 week later
Quoted from gameroompinball:Any idea where I should look first?
Reseat ribbon cables from CPU to DMD Driver Board to DMD.
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1 month later
Quoted from Ashram56:Where are the power ball detectors located?
Tiny eddy sensor sticking up at end of the ball trough. Switch #26 if you want to check in test.
LTG : )
Quoted from Ashram56:Any other suggestion?
F112 on the driver board. Pull and check with a meter.
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Quoted from Ashram56:Fuse replaced, game is working. But burns F112 again, when reaching powerball mania stage.
Something shifted in the move. I'd start by looking at coil lugs too close to metal.
Then crap behind the board.
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Quoted from rhampo:Anyone know how to best adjust the gumball diverter?
Next time you have the long screwdriver in there. Bend the pole the diverter is mounted to over a little so it goes over the lane guide more. This will last a long time.
LTG : )
Quoted from rhampo:is it safe to bend the diverter pole from above the playfield with a screwdriver? Won't that stress the mechanism?
I did it, worked great. Only need a little. Not enough to stress anything.
I looked it all over. Top and bottom. Was thinking of moving mech below, lane guide above. Dancing naked at midnight doing the sacred diverter dance.
Then as long as I had the screw driver in there anyway to unstick it. I thought, what the heck. Gave the shaft a shove near the top and was done with it.
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Quoted from shepP:Anyone know if their an option in the service menu to test the 3rd magnet?
No.
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Quoted from jchristian11:You should be able to test it in the coil test menu, I forget which number it is though.
Could it be T.4 22 Not Used ?
If not, then no test in coils either.
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1 week later
Quoted from atg1469:Is this anything to be concerned about?!
No. Flipper test is funky at best.
To run hold test. Hold the flipper bat up then run hold test, it should stay up. It shouldn't go up by itself.
If your flippers work fine in game play. Stop there.
Don't fix stuff that isn't broken.
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Quoted from atg1469:is that a problem?!
No.
Quoted from atg1469:I’ve tightened it down as good as I can but to no avail, how tight do these things need to be to stay put?!
Tighter. Eat your Wheaties.
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Quoted from gweempose:If you are running the home ROM, is there any way to turn it off free play?
No.
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2 weeks later
Quoted from Manny65:LOL I had to go measure mine, whereas I'm quite sure you'd know this off the top of your head
I had to too.
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Quoted from Gorgar666:Is this too yellowed to reuse with all new Plastics and Titan Rings? Your opinion of coarse.
New plastics. Titan rings. Just think how spiffy your game would look with this :
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Quoted from Gorgar666:So, I can’t find those switch covers anywhere the ones on the top mini Playfeild…
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9672
Do you have the clips that hold them ? I ask because sample games didn't have them. If you have the clips you are good to go.
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2 weeks later
Quoted from pindude80:I can do to try and diagnose the cause?
Have you worked on the game recently, like replaced a switch or soldered a switch wire back on ? If not I'd try going into Tests - Switches - Matrxed, band on playfield. See if any switch reports on the DMD that needs adjusting.
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Quoted from pindude80:Should these be open?
Yes. When a coin goes by pressing the arm of the switch down is when it should momentarily close.
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Quoted from p1nbot:Any thoughts?
Switch hasn't been hit recently. Switch doesn't work ie broken switch, broken wire, broken connection of same wire color at another switch.
Find it, figure it out, fix it.
LTG : )
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:options for new apron cards?
http://www.pinballcards.com/Search?submit_form=0&search=twilight+zone
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Quoted from Gorgar666:What is this collect next spiral value Plastic? I guess mines is missing…
Only on a few sample games. You aren't missing it.
LTG : )
Quoted from Crazyrayray113:Many thanks in advance!
This will help : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
Turn the game off. I'd clean the optos on the flipper button opto boards. Then one flipper at a time. Remove the coil stop, slide coil off and let hang. Check coil sleeve for dirt, cracks or breaks. Feel the top of the coil stop, is it worn and concave or flat ? Feel then end of the plunger, mushroomed or a sharp edge ? Does the flipper bat have a tiny bit of up and down play ( not back and forth ) ?
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Quoted from noitbe1:I really don’t get why some of the samples were assembled with that plastic and the mini playfield plastic trims added later. It feels strange.
No one knows. The factory just kept moving. Some early games had the translites with the stars cut out, and some didn't.
TZ was made over 9 months and had a lot of differences during the whole run.
LTG : )
Quoted from addiact:I suspect that it could be a problem with the pinball Opto board,
Flipper button opto board ? If so Tests - Switch Edge, push flipper button in slowly. Two optos on each side. First one registers ( lower flippers ) the 2nd one registers ( uppers )
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Quoted from Miguel351:Kinda like the extra graveyard plastics on TAF(which no one has ever really figured out where they were installed).
They just didn't fit right or look right. I suspect the left hole was for over the wireform and the right arch hole over the ramp, except it didn't reach far enough and the idea dropped.
Someone needs to photoshop it and stretch far enough to do both.
LTG : )
taf (resized).jpgtaf2 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from addiact:Any ideas related to this problem and how to resolve it?
First thing is it doesn't detect a ceramic powerball. It can't see it.
It isn't detecting a steel ball going by. So when a steel ball goes by and it doesn't detect it, the machine thinks it's a powerball going by.
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Quoted from esvadj:My hopes are that I am overlooking something simple and its an easy fix.
Broken wire common to both ? ( manual helps with wire colors to each coil ) at one of the coils or others using the same colors on the way to the backbox.
I'd start with that.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Broken wire common to both ? ( manual helps with wire colors to each coil ) at one of the coils or others using the same colors on the way to the backbox.
They don't have a common wire. So check wires at coil lugs for a break or bad solder joint. Thick wires to the coil lugs and thin wires from the coil windings to the coil lugs.
Then check continuity or each wire from coil to backbox, you have a break along the way. Connector or other coil.
LTG : )
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Any tips on removing this original rom without hurting anything?
ROM puller.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Where do I find one and what model of light is it?
#906 or #912 light bulb. Any pinball parts places should have it.
LEDs - https://www.cometpinball.com/search?q=906
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Green-Machine:Would appreciate any direction.
Meter in hand. Battery power getting onto the CPU ?
Battery holder failure happens.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from colocole:I’ve never done flipper Maintenace so I’m wondering what to focus on
Clean optos on flipper button opto boards.
Might be time to rebuild your flippers. New plunger assembly, new coil stop, new coil sleeve.
You'll be glad you did. Your game will play like new.
LTG : )
Quoted from dgposter:Any ideas?
Bad transistor on the driver board.
Manual has which one to test.
LTG : )
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:I assume I should set this to “NO” as I don’t have the 3rd magnet installed?
If it's in what ever version of software your are running.
9.4 only goes up to 35.
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:2nd Bigkick
What number/name is this on the switch matrix, and where is it on the playfield please ?
Thank you.
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:Ah, #71. Originally the 'Auto-Fire Kicker' was named 'Big Kick #1', and there were two optos down there. Second one was 'Big Kick 2'.
Interesting. I have cut out for it and optos and no wiring to them on my game. My game is an early sample, has 3rd magnet and optos wired in for 3rd magnet and optos wired in for clock passage.
Manual doesn't have wiring for it to opto driver board or open spot on connector.
Any idea where the optos get connected to ?
Thank you. Again.
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:I put a note on my maching to look at the opto colors and trace them to the opto board next time I have to open it up.
Thank you. I appreciate your help !
LTG : )
Quoted from DumbAss:The unused switches are the ones that you want.
#88 unused do you know where it is on the playfield ?
Did you confuse it with #86 upper lock ?
LTG : )
Starting over and making a couple corrections. I dug a little deeper and am sorry for any previous mistakes.
My game has the cut outs for #71 and #71 but no optos behind them. It is an early sample game and has the other sample features. Build was around the 1st of March 1993.
Does have #81 and in test comes up as right magnet. #82 is there and registers as not used.
I don't see a spot for #88 , any idea where it can be ?
I've attached two pictures of two boards hanging under the playfield. One looks to be the 7 opto driver board with big resistors, not sure of the other board, didn't see it mentioned in the manual.
I appreciate any on going help.
LTG : )
DSC00740 (resized).JPGDSC00741 (resized).JPGQuoted from LTG:I've attached two pictures of two boards hanging under the playfield. One looks to be the 7 opto driver board with big resistors, not sure of the other board, didn't see it mentioned in the manual.
The blurry picture has the fat purple resistors on it.
LTG : )
Quoted from DumbAss:If you're unsure then post images of the connectors to each board. Good resolution, well illuminated and in focus.
1 of 2 posts. This is the board hanging on the left under side of the playfield.
Still need to know where switch #88 would be please, and on the playfield.
Thank you for your help !
LTG : )
Quoted from DumbAss:If you're unsure then post images of the connectors to each board. Good resolution, well illuminated and in focus.
2 of 2 posts. This is the board hanging on the right under side of the playfield.
Still need to know where switch #88 would be please, and on the playfield ?
Thank you for your help !
LTG : )
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I would reflow the solder on the opto board headers and replace the capacitor on that board(s) while you have it out.
Just loosened them up for the picture. Game is working fine. That is where I stop. Address it later if problems arise.
Thank you.
LTG : )
Quoted from DumbAss:Coyote will probably know the exact location for sure.
We'll see his response when he can.
Thank you DumbAss for all your help ! Since part of this is already in my game I may as well add #71 and #72 and anything else missing.
I appreciate your help !
LTG : )
Quoted from RellikJM:LTG,
Please note that the 3 ball magnet catching effect when starting multiball requires running 9.4H which is not a coin-op rom. A player will be able to start the game when 0 credits remain. You can turn off the FREE PLAY message and it will still properly take coins while allowing a player to start a game with 0 credits.
I appreciate that. I was planning for future events like my previous 50th Anniversary party or future Pinball Circus events, where I have the games on free play.
Years ago when I had Demo Man. I left all the dirty sound ROMs in, but swapped the Dirty game Rom in for the event ( free play only ) and pulled it and put back in the coin play game ROM after the event. ( the normal game ROM didn't know to access the dirty sound ROMs ).
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:Hopefully that helps.
Quoted from Coyote:IMHO, putting in the Clock Passage opto won't do anything for you, really.
Thank you for your help. I really appreciate it !
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:My game is stamped as being made over a MONTH after yours,
Thanks to your guidance. I dug a little deeper. My game was actually made April 5th, 1993. No idea why I thought it was a month older.
Under the playfield in the #86 clock passage area. I found one small empty female 2 wire molex connector with orange wire /blue stripe and green wire gray stripe. I assume that is for one side of the optos. The wires were dirty, I'll have to check to be sure of the colors. When I get a chance I'll follow the wires from the opto driver board to see where they go for the other side. I dug around and didn't see any other two wire connector unused in that area.
By the auto fire like you said. I found a small 6 wire molex connector. Six wires to it, the other side only 3 wires going out to opto #72. The three empty spots must be for #71.
Coyote I really appreciate your help. Kind of neat after almost 30 years having a mystery with this game.
Thank you,
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:I can open up my game and get the stripe colors later today, if you need 'em. (Since they're not in the manual, of course.)
I'd really appreciate that. Colors for transmitter and receiver on either side in the clock passage please. That will really help me find where the other side wires might be since I only found the one small two wire connector.
Quoted from Coyote:With all the help you give everyone else, my honor to help and return the favor.
Thank you my friend ! That really cheered me up.
LTG : )
The plot thickens :
Quoted from Coyote:One plug is Grey and Orange/Blue. It's located near the main harness,
That is the one small two wire connector I found.
Quoted from Coyote:The other plug is Black & Grey/Blue. It's located along the wiring harness up near the UR Flipper.
That is the one MIA.
So I Pulled the harness from the nylon clip holding it to the underside of the playfield. I found a Black wire & Grey/Blue wire. Oh joy. Shortly along the way they were cut, maybe where connector used to be ? wires were spliced on them and wire color changed, and running towards the rear of the playfield and up through the hole where the plastic ramp wires all go.
From the side I looked around with a bright light and couldn't find where they went. Nothing obvious on the ramp switches or anything. So sometime when I'm feeling ambitious I'll tear the ramp out and try and figure what in tarnation this invention is and where it goes and what it is doing. Doesn't look factory, yet it's nothing I ever did.
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:That.. is very odd. If you dig into it, let me know what you find.
I will. Since I didn't do it, and the only one ever working on the game, and or cleaning and removing the plastic ramp, has been me. My curiosity is up. Though I'll have to wait until I can spend some time on it. Pulling the ramp out will take some time, and I may as well clean it when I'm in there. And I may have something that needs changing or fixing depending where those wires go.
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:That.. is very odd. If you dig into it, let me know what you find.
Well this is strange. Looking up the right lane going back, in Tests - Switch Edge, the first magnet registers in switch edge test as "Right Magnet #81". ( black wire and a grey wire with a tiny brown specs a few times along it )
The second magnet switch registers as #82 Not Used. The Black wire & Grey/Blue wire extensions ( the one I couldn't find a connector for because it was cut off and two wires spliced onto it ) are running to The right side of the lane, white body opto, the transmitter, for switch #82.
The unused small two wire connector is a Grey wire and an Orange Wire with a Blue Stripe.
So in order to get #86 the Clock Passage going. Do you think I could use the Grey Wire & Orange Wire with Blue Stripe for the receiver side, and tap into the Black Wire & Grey/Blue Wire for the transmitter ?
And as long as I'm on questions. The 6 wire connector has four wires running up to #71, I assume transmitter and receiver. And the two empty spots going out from the connector I assume are, for the #72 receiver , so can I tap onto #71's transmitter to make #72 work ?
Thank you for your help Coyote , I really appreciate it. And I hope it hasn't been as confusing for you as it has for me.
LTG : )
Quoted from DumbAss:If you show me (post an image)
I wish I knew this a couple hours ago. All back together now. Description above is the best I have. If #81 and #82 are registering in the right order, then their receivers are good.
And I know the connector that is empty but there for #86's receiver. Just need to know if I can tap onto #82's transmitter wiring for #86's transmitter.
#72 shouldn't be a problem if I can tap onto #71's transmitter. Then just use the two unused connector spots for the receiver.
Coyote may know more.
I appreciate your help too !
Thank you both,
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:Quick addendum - I got called into the office early this morning. I haven't had my coffee yet, and don't have access to my game today, so if something I typed above makes NO sense, gimme a little leeway, please.
I think I'm good for now. Won't start this for awhile. Need to accumulate parts.
Quoted from Coyote:Just now you need to find the other connector to use it.
It doesn't exist. I'll need to figure where it's wire is.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Pinwow:Thank you in advance for your thoughts/help
12 volts on the driver board is dropping.
Check the test point on your driver board first.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from ramegoom:What do the switch settings represent?
Country settings.
https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_wpc_country_settings.html
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Norcalpin:Any ideas?
Fix the switch in there. And check bracket holding coil is tight to the playfield, and no broken wires.
You can check both in Tests, switch edge, or coils.
LTG : )
Quoted from Smokenmirrors:I wanted to see if anyone had heard of this.
Never heard of it.
The clock face changed during production from white to colors. But TZs all came with clear clock bodies.
Colored bodies have been repo'd by several sources through the years.
LTG : )
Quoted from Miguel351:TZ is notorious as one of the most difficult machines to own, work on, and keep at 100%.
I've found it to be the exact opposite too. And not a bear to clean. This is in commercial use.
I think a big part of it is when something breaks. Fix it right. Don't patch it. If you patch it, you'll be working on it all the time.
LTG : )
Quoted from Madmax541:am I missing something?
Remove switch. Slightly adjust said switch. Put switch back.
Live happily ever after.
LTG : )
Quoted from Scoot:Why would this be here? Distributor id#?
Operator ID. Under glass instead of side of cabinet. So it's harder to remove on location.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:1. My left flipper is somewhat randomly sticking in the "up" position. This seems to occur most frequently after holding the left flipper in the "up" position for awhile (like 15-20 seconds or so) but it is still kind of random. It's frequent enough that it is causing a gameplay issue. I haven't had a chance to diagnose this but anyone else have this issue on TZ and if so what was the cause? I'm thinking (1) worn or busted coil stop; (2) broken return spring; (3) perhaps interference between flipper link and bushing mounting bolts; or out of whack EOS. I can take an under PF pic when I'm able but curious to hear thoughts from the group on this.
Remove coil stop, slide coil off plunger, is coil stop worn, not flat any more ? End of plunger mushroomed or have a sharp edge ? Coil sleeve cracked or dirt ?
If so time to rebuild flipper(s) new plunger assembly, new coil stop, new coil sleeve.
Also be sure the flipper bat has a tiny bit of up and down play ( not back and forth ) to prevent binding under the playfield between the pawl and nylon bushing the flipper shaft goes through.
LTG : )
Quoted from GILV:I wish I could order from them,
Did you check Planetary Pinball Supply or Marco Specialties ?
And instead of kits, did you try pricing just the plungers assemblies - 2 left 2 right, 4 coil stops, 4 coil sleeves ?
LTG : )
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:Can LTG or anyone else comment on whether it's feasible to rebuild flipper mechs without unsoldering the coil.
I never unsolder the coil.
When I rebuild a flipper : Turn game off. Remove two screws holding coil stop on, toss the coil stop. Slide the coil down and leave hang, remove old coil sleeve and toss it. Unbolt the plunger from flipper shaft, slide flipper up and either out or leave in place, remove plunger assembly and unhook from spring to EOS bracket. Toss plunger assembly.
Reassemble - hook spring back on new plunger assembly, put new plunger assembly back in and slide pawl over flipper shaft. Then put new coil sleeve in coil and then slide coil back on and line up so coil sleeve goes in the bracket near the pawl. Put on new coil stop and two screws. Then start to tighten nut holding pawl to flipper shaft. Just enough so flipper bat barely turns, pull flipper bat up so there is a little up/down play on flipper bat ( up and down, not back and forth ) lower playfield and the line flipper bat back up where I want it. Lift playfield. Then tighten the beejeebers out of that nut so flipper shaft doesn't turn.
I do one flipper at a time. So I can compare to others to see where parts go. ( I don't really do this, this part I posted for beginners ).
If flipper bat moves freely and returns to down position. Move onto the next flipper.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:pull flipper bat up so there is a little up/down play on flipper bat ( up and down, not back and forth )
This video can help with a flipper spacer gauge. ( another thing I don't use )
LTG : )
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:I can't say when the bushings were last replaced so probably best to pick up some & new hardware for same and install.
Then your job gets a little bigger. You have to remove 8 screws and lower the flipper base plate so you can get at the screw heads on one side and the nuts on the other.
Myself, I don't usually mess with them. Clean them, run a QTip through them. And check for cracks or breaks. If cracked then I replace them.
Only game I do it if rebuilding the flipper is AFM or AFMR. That left flipper takes a beating and is usually cracked or soon will be. I don't like working on stuff twice.
LTG : )
Quoted from buckeyesrewind:Is it possible to change the default high scores? I have 9.4H installed. I’ve tried, but when I exit out of the menu, the default ones remain. Thanks!
It is fun and can take a few tries.
Go into Adjustments - A.4 11,12,13, &14. Lower them there. Then exit out of stuff to attract mode. Then press and hold the begin test button.
Any kind of luck it will work. Or keep trying.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from dboeren:What I need help with is understanding whether I need a flipper rebuild kit, new solenoid coils, or both. They aren't BAD, but I'd like a bit more power to hit the top ramps.
Clean the optos on your flipper button opto boards.
Rebuild flippers - new coil sleeve, new coil stop, new plunger assembly.
Do all four. You'll be glad you did.
LTG : )
Quoted from GILV:Are there Fliptronic boards on Pin2000 games?
Check the manual. I doubt it.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from JohnTTwo:I seen these posted in another TZ thread. I am not very good on using this forum and was wonder if anyone has used these switches as a replacements on the mini playfield?
They look too short.
Get one of these - https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-sub-microswitch-5647-12693-07-with-22-flat-blade.html if blade is too long cut to length.
No need to replace all of them. The one the blade broke off of you may be able to snap back on.
If you replace the switch, get the wires in the same spots and silver band end of diode facing the same way. If you replace the diode a 1N4004 or 1N4007 will work fine.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from WesleyCowan:Okay this afternoon will check the trough switches.
Compare it to the others. Could be wired wrong or diode on backwards. No matter how careful you are, it's easy to do.
LTG : )
Quoted from WesleyCowan:but after a long time gave up as getting frustrated
Take a break.
Then look it over. Think it over. Thanks to tests and your finger, you know it works. What is different when a ball is on it ?
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from GILV:green/orange wire switch row is linked to the U20
Rows are U20 columns are LM339's.
LTG : )
Quoted from ProjektPat:maybe a fuse?
No, 5 of them. Not likely you blew all 5.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems More likely burnt connector lower left side of the driver board.
LTG : )
Quoted from ProjektPat:Now maybe it's a fuse
Maybe measure AC to the driver board. AC leaving to the GI lines ? Narrow it down. Forget fuse. You replaced the connectors, did you replace the pins on the board ? Check continuity of each pin from the pin to a spot away from the repair area ? You may have lost through board continuity.
LTG : )
Quoted from atg1469:Any ideas how to test this?
Sensor switch #26 at end of ball trough. Tests - Switch Edge - roll a steel ball to it and see if it registers on the DMD.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Flato:my board doesnt seem to have 117 and 118
Did you get the right board - http://www.rottendog.us/wdb089.html ?
Or the wrong one - http://www.rottendog.us/wdb095.html ?
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from Hop721:Is there a common wire among all 4 that I can run a continuity test on,
No - check the dedicated switch columns by your switch matrix in the manual. One on the left one on the right.
Quoted from Hop721:btw but im worried about frying a coil if I trap up or something.
You won't. Fliptronics knows about it and cuts power.
LTG : )
Quoted from Hop721:I'm confident they are working
I'm confident they aren't.
Broken wire at one of them or from one of them to the fliptronics board.
I'd check continuity of wires from them to the board. If all of them are good to the board, then their IC on the board has an issue.
LTG : )
Quoted from Hop721:I'll check that out
In Tests - Switch Edge - if each one ( or any one ) works and the correct one registers on the screen, that should clear the error.
LTG : )
Quoted from Dalinar:only have a new stern.
You okay with that for basics. Cleaning ? Minor repairs ?
If so TZ will be no problem. People may disagree but I've found mine reliable in commercial use, and one of the easier pins to shop. Mini playfield - two identical connectors, don't mix them up so you don't blow up your optos. Habitrails come out easy, a connector or two, nuts and screws. Ramps - a couple small screws, and bigger screws, and connectors.
Not much else there.
LTG : )
4 weeks later
Quoted from GILV:there are so many mods for TZ out there that very few people don't get tempted by at least a few of them.
Here is an early sample TZ I've had since new. Still has the Bally sticker on the playfield glass.
I do have a slot machine topper on the backbox. And if I run an event in my business with the games on free play, I wired in the third magnet optos so that feature works with the latest free play game ROM. Third magnet and connectors for optos were already in it.
LTG : )
DSC00826 (resized).JPGQuoted from GILV:You bought it NIB from Williams?
It has a lot of the early features. No star burst behind Rod on the cabinet art, green lock light, grapefruit colored pop bumper cap, two posts by the pop bumpers, the rails are to short to rest the playfield on the front of the game, white clock face. And maybe another thing or two.
Got it new from the Distributor who got it from Williams.
LTG : )
Quoted from ProjektPat:Any idea what’s causing this?
The ball isn't staying on the end of the stainless steel launch bucket. Some have glued a magnet on the left outside end of it so the ball stays put and doesn't get launched into outer space.
LTG : )
Quoted from ProjektPat:is this a common issue?
Quoted from billsfanmd:I think it happens on most TZ.
I'd put it at kind of common. Depends on how the game is set up, and a hard shot going up the ramp and over there.
Doesn't happen on every TZ or all the time.
LTG : )
Quoted from ProjektPat:New issue just came up. The diverter to the power ramp is triggering constantly even in attract mode. I started a game and it just immediately started the power battle and diverter continues to trigger.
Go into Tests - Switch Edge - see what switch needs attention.
LTG : )
Quoted from ProjektPat:What’s annoying is I’m pretty sure the balls were brand new when I put them in.
Doesn't mean they weren't magnetized. Age has nothing to do with that.
LTG : )
Quoted from ProjektPat:How would I go about changing the metal flaps on the ramps?
Remove the ramps. Remove the rivets. Remove old flap. Get or make new flap. Rivet it on.
You may need help with the new flaps and riveting.
If yours are in good shape, not all kitty bunkus, just the bluing worn off. I'd get some gun bluing and redo them.
LTG : )
Quoted from ProjektPat:I just don’t now how to remove and reattach.
Near the top right side of Pinside is a search feature. There have been good posts of drilling out the rivets and replacing ramp flaps.
Some people have posted offers of help to reattach flaps. You might consider that so you don't need riveting tools and rivets.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from GILV:What are these "diodes" called on the flipper opto boards (see picture) ?
Resistors
Quoted from GILV:Are they supposed to get hot after a few games?
No. But they look like after market boards, so something ain't right.
Quoted from GILV:what are the repercussions of them getting hot?
Won't work. Big fire. Nuclear explosion. Nothing major. I'd get rid of them so they don't cause other problems.
LTG : )
Quoted from DumbAss:You can't get rid of them
I didn't mean the resistors, I meant the whole flipper button opto board. They didn't look original.
LTG : )
Quoted from GILV:Would the sound be better because IJ has DCS sound,
No idea if you could use the IJ in TZ. ( check board numbers in the manual to see if they are the same board or not ). Even if you could it won't sound better.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from atg1469:Still, is this possibly an indicator that these sensors need to be replaced?
I'd put a new set in. Just to keep eliminating things.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from atg1469:Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!
It may move freely by hand, but the coil moving it is different. Something is binding when the coil moves it.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from discosucks:so I would like to pick up from local hardware store
Take the bracket with you. Tiny sheet metal screw. You might do better at a hobby shop if you live near one.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Coyote:Your game looks an awful lot like a floor.
I didn't have a picture of the one on my game so I grabbed one somewhere else.
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:Your game looks an awful lot like a floor.
Here is the slot machine topper on my game. ( DMD looks scrambled in picture, it isn't in real life )
LTG : )
Quoted from ACDNate:Is that held on place with some kind of adhesive?
4 nuts.
Should come off. Might be stuck to foam around it. Gently tug it off.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from atg1469:Any suggestions on what I should look for next?!
For a start I'd go into Tests - Switch Edge - slowly push flipper button in and see if one at a time both rgisters on the DMD.
LTG : )
Quoted from Coyote:I'm assuming the hold coil is working
Easy to check. Dig around the thin wires from coil windings for a crack or break.
Or swap left and right flipper coils. See if problem moves or new solder fixes it.
LTG : )
Quoted from atg1469:The wiring on the coil feels in tact but I can easily run some new solder on them
I'd clean that crap up. Cut back the wire a tiny bit. Strip the end. Remove solder from the lugs. Stick wire in hole in lug, flow on new solder. Practice on scraps first if you need to improve your skill, adding more to that mess won't help if the problem is there.
The thin wire from the coil windings to the lug with the orange wire, be sure it isn't cracked or broken and soldered on tight.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from mmr61184:I think gene was doing playfields around then. What about translite sand stuff like that
A lot of Gene's stuff had issues. Anything from Illinois Pin Ball, go over carefully.
LTG : )
Quoted from mmr61184:Why were there some that didn’t? I never knew that
No rhyme or reason. I believe they had both on hand and grabbed off of one pile or the other.
My sample TZ doesn't have the star cutouts. I once had a TZ made a month later and it had the star cutouts.
I don't know if it effects value. Just that somebody might be looking for one or the other.
LTG : )
Quoted from mmr61184:Do the cut outs functionality make that big of a difference
Depends on the individual.
Some may like it. Some may not. Some may not care.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from sizzler747:like it thinks the ball drained.
Tests - Switch Edge - try pressing ball trough switches one at a time. See if the correct switch registers on the DMD, or other switches report.
LTG : )
Quoted from GILV:If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Opto_Switches
This will help you with testing.
LTG : )
Quoted from DumbAss:You get what you pay for.
Damn you make a really great looking board. Like a work of art. And the best board, of what is out there.
Thank you !
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from TZBen:Not sure how to fix a switch.
Tests - Switch Edge - do any of them work when pressed ? May just need adjusting.
Manual - Switch matrix - do the non working switches have a common wire ? If so check from the switches on that wire from the switch to the CPU. A break along the way can kill them.
LTG : )
4 weeks later
Quoted from Green-Machine:Anything to look for with cap going bad or just be proactive and change it out before I wish I had?
Leaking or bulged. Otherwise leave it alone.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from PlayerPiano:slight chatter
Bad solder joint at the coil or cracked thin wire from the coil windings to the lug.
Clean your flipper button optos too.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from GILV:Anybody know what's the difference between Pin Gizmos third magnet kits and Pinbits third magnet kits?
Pinbits seems to have disappeared.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from jid:So one of these posts with rubber is not original. I can’t remember which though.
I checked my game, an early sample.
Front one circled in green is there, back one with the red X isn't there.
LTG : )
Pinside_forum_8023950_0 (resized).jpg 1 month later
Quoted from Coyote:Sample games had a clear plastic-formed cover. (Not the same grey thing that is on the powerfield, but a clear cover formed out of plastic like the ramp.) This was removed after sample game production.
Used in TAF.
LTG : )
Quoted from jrcmlc:My balls are very smooth.
You do anything special. Wax them to get the hairs off ? Polish them ?
LTG : )
Quoted from cconway84:Looking for these two upper pf plastics if anyone has a spare set.
Or check parts places for a complete plastic set.
LTG : )
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