(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (3 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (1 year ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (4 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ltg.
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#10668 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Why would Rottendog load an old ROMset?

Rottendog shipped it with old ROM. Person that replace the CPU stuck in the ROM from the old CPU. ASIC chip too.

LTG : )

#10692 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Did I disrupt ground by pulling this old bill validator?

110 volt AC. Hot and common. You didn't disrupt ground by unplugging it.

Easy to turn game off. Plug it back in, leave it hang in there. Turn game on and check.

LTG : )

#10697 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Did I disrupt ground

That got me to thinking. Maybe nothing. Just to keep eliminating things.

Try removing the fliptronics board. Clean the pads on the back that touch the mounting posts on the back wall. Then clean the top of those posts good. To be sure that board is grounded in the game good.

Problems here always seem to involve the fliptronics board, that you know is good. And all the other boards work good so we know they are grounded good.

LTG : )

#10710 3 months ago

The pads the socket twists onto have worn dimples. Flow some solder on them to raise them level.

Gently clean the pins so the connector makes good contact. Diode for each bulb good ?

LTG : )

#10712 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

What was the issue

A quick summary. His flippers and magnets on mini playfield don't work. He has tried his boards ( Fliptronics, magnet board, and driver board ) and ribbon cables in my game. They work in my game.

He hasn't tried his flipper button opto boards in my game, I don't know if his flipper button opto boards work in switch edge test in his game.

LTG : )

#10716 3 months ago

Are dirty. Female part inside connector may be dirty too.

LTG : )

#10725 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I'd suggest reflowing the header pins anyway as they don't look great.

Or bring them in. I'll do them.

LTG : )

#10727 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Not sure as my test method is apparently flawed.

In circuit isn't the way to check a diode.

Bring the board in. I'll clean it up and try in my game.

LTG : )

#10733 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Diodes all have approximately identical readings.

They aren't your issue.

LTG : )

#10738 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I don't really know what more there could be to reflowing solder at connector pins.

Suck off the old solder. Flow on new.

Clean pins. Clean inside female connector.

LTG : )

#10746 3 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Is there any kind of fix for this??

https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-slot-machine-scoop/ it has a tab protruding from the side to stop the target.

LTG : )

#10748 3 months ago

Jump the purple wire. It may have a break internally you can't see.

LTG : )

#10753 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

You're telling me the wire could well be broken despite the continuity?

The meter is on zero. If you have continuity, jumping it won't make it any better.

LTG : )

#10773 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Now to figure out how it connects to that socket. Does it go to the banded end of the diode?

Compare to your other sockets. All wired the same. Only the stripes on the main color are different.

LTG : )

#10776 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Now to figure out how it connects to that socket. Does it go to the banded end of the diode?

Two wires. Red with violet stripe. Both go to the same lug. For shoot again lamp.

LTG : )

#10783 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Please tell me where this mini-PF corner-protector mod is available online.

Cliffy : http://www.passionforpinball.com/tz.htm

LTG : )

#10791 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I did *not* imagine it would disable the magnets entirely!

Depends on how it's wired. Right flipper button opto board has to be plugged in for the left flipper button opto board to work. The left one gets it's power from the right.

LTG : )

#10799 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

How to Safely Remove TZ Playfield?

Two people is best. Unplug everything for it. Stand straight up. Lift straight up and out.

LTG : )

#10814 89 days ago
Quoted from Kare9:

Ball trough have ball marks on it?

Older style ball trough. Marks ( divots ) common on newer ball troughs with opto boards.

LTG : )

#10815 89 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

If I were to guess, your left trough switch (#17) is acting up or sticking.

Or hit twice with ball bouncing back because of missing wireform.

LTG : )

#10831 87 days ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Now, the game only sometimes recognizes the power ball.

It has no way to recognize it. It detects metal. So if switch before and after get hit and not metal sensor triggers- POWERBALL !

LTG : )

#10844 86 days ago

Manual has the pinouts for the clock board connectors.

If the clock works and no GI. I'd concentrate on the playfield GI connector lower left corner area of your driver board.

Wiggle it, see if they come back on.

LTG : )

#10850 86 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

By "clock board" are you referring to the 8 Driver PCB Assembly?

No. Board inside the clock. Page 3-18 in the manual.

LTG : )

#10852 85 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I wonder if the fact that I have all my bulbs removed from my backbox is mucking things up.

No. Backbox and playfield are different.

Do you have power leaving GI string 3 from the power driver board ?

LTG : )

#10854 85 days ago

Take you meter, set to AC. See if you have AC on all the playfield lines leaving the driver board. If so then see if power is getting to the clock board connector for the LEDs.

LTG : )

#10855 85 days ago

Swap backbox and playfield connectors on the driver board. If clock doesn't light up you know it isn't a board issue. Then from the connector to the board in the clock you have a break.

LTG : )

#10868 84 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

If you are using most boards OTHER than Ingo's and OEM, yes, they have their polarity wrong for the OCD boards.

The boards came from Marco. And were working until Jason was trying to get the flippers going and other things.

LTG : )

#10876 84 days ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I can't see how I would have mixed them up as they didn't get removed until I went to clean the ball guide and then they went right back on.

Maybe they were wrong before you started ?

LTG : )

#10885 82 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I've never had any luck extracting a pin from a Molex connector, but I will try.

Push tab in on the back of pin and pull up and out.

LTG : )

#10910 77 days ago

LTG : )

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#10913 77 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I don't know what the product is

That is what I was wondering. WTF is it ?

LTG : )

#10916 77 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Twister's switch have a tiny resistor onboard or a diode?

That is a diode.

White wire/black end of diode to NC. Green wire to NO. Silver band end of diode to C.

#10917 77 days ago

If you use the left side. White wire to WI. Green wire to GN. Then don't put a diode on it. There is one there.

LTG : )

#10925 77 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I have no idea what a switch-impulse extender might look like or how it would be wired.

BOOM !

LTG : )

#10931 76 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Mine had washers top & bottom of the spring, plus another above the bracket before the nut.

My game didn't have them.

LTG : )

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#10933 76 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Out of interest what is the build date on your machine?

04/05/93 It's a sample game.

LTG : )

#10938 76 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I’m curious about how long were they in production?

About 9 months. Many changes during that time. Sample prototype stuff ended in a month or so. Grapefruit colored pop bumper cap, third magnet in, two posts by pop bumper, green lock light, missing flip here on mini playfield, too short metal supports to rest playfield on, sticker on light by right ramp, white clock face. No sunburst behind Rod on back box side art.

Things slowly changed. Flip here on mini playfield, magnet pole removed for third magnet, eventually no hole. Two posts by pop bumper removed, black plastic plugs in the holes, eventually no holes. Multi colored clock face. Longer playfield supports to rest playfield on. About 1/3rd of the way high power interlock switch installed but not wired in. Last third of the run had it wired in. Starburst added to backbox side art behind Rod.

No rhyme or reason on translights. Seemed like they had two stacks. One with stars cut out one without. Didn't matter when the game was made. You got one or the other.

LTG : )

#10950 75 days ago
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

If it goes up when you turn the game on - bad transistor.

If it goes up when you start a game - diode on the coil issue - broken off or broken leg.

LTG : )

#10952 75 days ago
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:

Can a diode or diodes be bad and how do you check?

Youtube - lift one leg and check with a meter.

Tests - Switch Edge - slowly puch in your flipper buttons one at a time - be sure both optos on each board are reporting on the DMD.

LTG : )

#10962 75 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

but I have no idea where this came from.

I've run into it on Addams and TZ. Leg broken on diode. Flipper goes up at start of game. Replace diode. Then it worked.

Since that fixed it. I didn't reason beyond it. I quit when things are working.

LTG : )

1 week later
#11022 68 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Can I safely substitute the Stern coil?

Yes. If the Stern coil has a diode on it remove it.

23 or 26 is the wire gauge. 800 or 1200 is the number of turns. Less turns stronger coil, more turns weaker coil.

LTG : )

#11025 68 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Buy another DC Motor Control Assembly board?

Won't help.

Check if clock hands are warped and not always doing a good job.

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Buy another clock board?

Borrow my brand new spare one. If it works, buy it.

LTG : )

#11031 68 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Is this normal clearance for these two parts?

In my experience, too close.

LTG : )

#11041 68 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Could I have magnetized balls after a few dozen plays?

With shiny balls, yes. Put a paper clip near it and see.

LTG : )

#11065 64 days ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Any ideas and thoughts?

Broken wire on ball trough switch ?

LTG : )

#11067 63 days ago
Quoted from VancouverNinja:

I was wondering if anyone knows where I can purchase the mini switch replacement kit for the Power playfield?

Send a pm to Jason_Jehosaphat and ask where he got them.

LTG : )

#11123 58 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Does anyone have a pic of an original side of the head.
I want to know if the hinge screws are mill finish and if the cabinet corner screws are "blued" or painted.

This help ?

LTG : )

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#11126 58 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

You beat me by a one second Lloyd

You helped too.

Mine is a sample head and yours is a production head. So both versions are covered.

LTG : )

1 week later
#11177 46 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

It appears that my Trough Proximity switch isn't working, since the game no longer announces the Powerball when it's released into the shooter lane. The Powerball is only recognized by the Slot Proximity switch in the subway.

Your game doesn't know what the f*** a power ball is. The sensors only detect steel balls. So if a non steel ball goes by, but micro mini switches before and after it are hit but no steel ball is detected, then the game thinks POWERBALL.

Go into Tests - Switch Edge - roll a steel ball by the inductor and see if it works. It most likely is, or you'd have POWERBALL for every ball, steel or not.

LTG : )

#11195 41 days ago

I'd take a meter set to ohms. And check each wire from the coil to the driver board. See if one side is drawing ohms. That would point to weak connector or solder joint along the way.

LTG : )

#11198 41 days ago

How far above the coil is this metal plate ?

LTG : )

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#11200 41 days ago

Please post a picture of the top.

That metal plate isn't setting on the coil right.

LTG : )

#11202 41 days ago

Nothing looking bent or out of place.

LTG : )

#11211 40 days ago
Quoted from Gingerbloke:

I which case I guess I need to follow the cable for that row right?

If it started after you replaced switches. You might have wired one wrong. Every switch in your game is wired the same. Easy to check and compare to other micro mini switches.

White wire and black end of the diode to a lug. Green wire to a lug. Silver band end of the diode to a lug.

LTG : )

1 week later
#11266 25 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Switch wiring confusion:

No confusion. The switch in your game has a lug missing. The positions are the same, marked or not. Look at the end of it, see a lug cut off. And quit showing pictures of the switch installed in the bakelite sides.

Wire it like I emailed you.

LTG : )

IMG_0616 (resized).JPG
#11267 25 days ago

Here - cut off your bottom lug and wire black end of the diode straight to the white wire.

Or that terminal on the bakelite side, solder the white wire and black end of diode to it. And the green wire and yellow wire to the lug on top.

LTG : )

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1 week later
#11304 16 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

How do I bring the column back?

Fix what ever blew on the CPU.

LTG : )

#11307 16 days ago
Quoted from McDoom:

How do you fix this problem?

Check it over. Dirty, need cleaning ? Kicker not hitting the ball dead center ?

LTG : )

#11315 15 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

As a matter of fact, no, I do *not* have any pad there. There's no hole there to accept a grommet.

He's thinking of the later ball trough assemblies which are different than the one in TZ.

LTG : )

#11348 12 days ago
Quoted from Ditch_Digger:

Why would players not want this setting…what’s the deal?

Game missing powerball or sensor for it at end of ball trough not working ?

LTG : )

#11349 12 days ago
Quoted from Ditch_Digger:

I’m about to Jason the hell out of this forum.

Jason_Jehosaphat You're famous now.

LTG : )

#11351 12 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Which side of this colordmd is the top?

LTG : )

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#11361 11 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

as though the operators were so exasperated with the game's complexity that they didn't bother to rout them and instead just stored them,

No. TZ was a commercial flop. Had nothing to do with the game's complexity. They were too hard and didn't get much play on route. That is why when Williams closed you could find nice ones cheap. As in under a grand.

And became a boon to collectors who could get a great DMD pin cheap.

LTG : )

#11369 11 days ago
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:

depends what you mean by commercial flop.

Fair enough.

Williams thought it would rival TAF in numbers built and made them for 9 months. Distributors thought the next Lawlor pin after TAF would sell great too. And operators probably did too. So a lot were sold.

On the street it was up against people working harder for less money. And coin op entertainment often forgets the entertainment part. At that time a lot of players wanted entertainment, not a job.

So TZ performed poorly in earnings for operators. Which is why in 1999 when Williams closed. There were a lot of TZs in good shape available at a great price.

LTG : )

1 week later
#11403 4 days ago
Quoted from sbmania:

any ideas on what might be causing both errors.

Disabled in settings ?

LTG : )

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