(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Coyote
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#590 4 years ago

Looking at buying a TZ. Game looks pretty good except for this post between the flippers. How much would this detract value relative to a game without it? I figure I'd remove it, plug it with something black and put Mylar over the hole, won't affect play. The game is sub $5k. Thx

I think the post is there because earlier versions of code didn't have much of a ball save.

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#593 4 years ago

here's some more pics...it looks pretty nice to me overall and owner has been very easy to deal with, couple of things here and there. I'd add LEDs to it, fix some plastics, couple of cliffys, not much more. I'm not looking for CQ, just a nice game overall. I'm mostly after the post hole, as that bothers me a bit and I don't want to have issues when/if I decide to sell down the road.

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#596 4 years ago

inside pic...not looking for CQ here, just looking to be able to play it and maybe be lucky enough to get my money back down the road. Are you guys saying that $4k is the tops this machine can fetch?

What I'm seeing out there is some pretty high priced TZ's lately, most are $6k and up. if this one is between 4 and 5k, that leaves quite a bit of room to make improvements if desired.

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#600 4 years ago

Thanks guys, really appreciate hearing your views. Looks like I may pass on this one, the post bothers me and while Im happy to do some work. I don't want to spend all my time doing it.

#603 4 years ago

The search goes on. These have become harder to find in good condition at a $5k price lately. Once you start getting into the 6-7k territory, might as well get a wozLE.

1 month later
#630 4 years ago

I'm in the club as of a week ago. Playfield is in great shape, cab is also in good shape, but has leg wrinkling. I've got new decals for it. Been busy with it, full ct LEDs, added home made car, robot and camera mods, new buy in switch. Came with pinpro speakers, piano mod and lighted gumballs. I believe it's also a sample game, green lock insert, filled holes in bumpers and routed third magnet hole. I'm just dealing with a clock issue, hence the credit dot. Game is every bit as expected.

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#632 4 years ago

Here the serial number and manufacturing date.

The blue lights are two 4" 6v led strips from cointaker. I hooked them into the GI.

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2 weeks later
#669 4 years ago

Still modding my game. Added the spiral back decal, blue led strips (facing down right back) plus the invader this morning (back right). Invader is pretty cool, I put two green LEDs in his hands, two whites coming out the side of his head, plus a blue one that lights up his eyes (hard to see, my phone sucks taking led pics). Game is really looking great...and no credit dot now that my clock is fixed! Put Ingos board in and a blue clock housing. Look around, there's a few other mods in there.

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1 week later
#703 4 years ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

Finished my TZ restoration yesterday with the help of my stepdad. New side rails, mirror blades, and some touch ups. Before and after restoration pics, below

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Like the side mirrors!

2 weeks later
#735 4 years ago

I ordered from PBR last week, already installed. Much beefier. Got the clock target too.

3 weeks later
#743 4 years ago

I would replace the slot (and maybe clock) target, add cliffys to rocket switch and left inlane. Backboard spiral decal looks awesome. Add some led strips in the back where it's dark. Upgrade backbox lighting to led. Ingos clock board is also really awesome. If you need mods (camera, street light, invader, car, robot) Lmk.

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#745 4 years ago

White clock face with blue housing looks nice!

1 week later
#789 4 years ago

That's not necessarily prototype. Does it have the third magnet? How about a pic of the mini PF? What's the production date, should be sticker on back of backbox.

#792 4 years ago

That's earlier than mine, June 93, I have green lock light and plugs in bumper area. You need some mods now

1 week later
#835 4 years ago
Quoted from Craig:

Me, too. My original clock still works fine, but I figure I'll be holding onto this pin for a long time, so I might as well pick that board up now. Of course, I have a small collection of such things that I don't really need and so haven't yet installed!

Replace your old one with this one as soon as you get it, so much better and the LEDs look great.

#840 4 years ago

Put the black switch covers on, really like the look better than the drab gray.

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#844 4 years ago

When I got the game, the left one was cracked. Ordered a new one and that's what it looked like. Didn't know it would be different, guess I need to find the other. The right one is not original either as it's screwed in and not riveted.

Quoted from ryanwanger:

Those do look good.
Did you intentionally duplicate the powerfield instruction signs? There are actually two different ones.

#852 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

What I meant is that the left one is entirely different. It should say: "Defeat the power by shooting the ball thru top of pyramid". Like this: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16416-2

I must have spaced out when I ordered it. Funnier thing is that I didn't even notice it. Anyone need a brand new manga flip sign?

#861 4 years ago

Those guys have some pretty outrageous prices.

Quoted from JohnnyHK:

Man, I simply do not get the current mod-crazy pinball culture. Guess I'm just a purist...or just old.

I like mods, pinball is all about bells and whistles. TZ is one of those games that seems made for mods, some are better than others. Personal taste.

#879 4 years ago

I had weak flipper issues and switched the boards at the lower flippers and it corrected the problem. Not sure why, but it did.

1 week later
#893 4 years ago
Quoted from DefaultGen:

Are the connectors supposed to stick way out of the Ingo board? I'm not sure if I have room to put in the PinballMod piano mod. Are there install instructions for that piano? I'm supposed to unscrew the bulb sockets, right?
New vs old:
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Not sure which piano mod you have, but I have ingos board and a piano mod with no fit issues so it should work for you.

1 week later
#930 4 years ago

Removing the clock and replacing the board is really very simple, I can do it in 2 minutes now.

1. Remove the plastic around the clock (if you have a piano, undo the screw holding it on first)
2. Unhook the motor power connector that's under the playfield and feed up through the Pf.
3. Undo the 2 screws holding the clock bracket
4. Lift clock and pull off two connectors. Clock will now be free.
5. Remove plastic face
6. Remove ear clip that holds hands on
7. Pull off hands, noting orientation (watch the pin underneath minute hand so you don't lose it.)
8. Undo 4 screws holding bracket in back and pull the motor and gears back (it's all one piece.)
9. Pull out board and replace it making sure you put it in oriented the right way.
10. Clean and lube the gears while you are there.
11. Button it all back up.

I'm going from memory as it's been a few months since I've done it, but It should not intimidate anyone as its about a 3 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being changing a bulb.

Others can chime in with tips or if I've missed something. I was in the same boat with mine not too long ago so hope this helps out.

#931 4 years ago
Quoted from Invader:

Some of you guys are going to hate me for this, but I applied new (cheap, not original) decals over my old (faded and damaged) decals
Also without removing the playfield and putting the cabinet on the side etc.
Why? Because I don't have the space, tools and time to do so currently.
And old decals were ugly and I needed to get it look better, so I tried this "easy" way
I also got new original decals (with correct color scheme) in stock, I hope sometime in my life, I have the time to do a full renovation of my TZ.
Then I'll apply the decals the right way
But for now, this turned out pretty good luckily!
Some minor imperfections, but waaaay better looking than with old decals.
I did fill the deep scratches/holes with bondo and sanded it by the way.
At the legs I didn't fill it up, because I'm using leg protectors, so you can see that on the picture.
I was afraid the old decal would shine through, but that's not the case woohoo.
OH and to get the two big bolts out from the side of the cabinet, I lifted the playfield a bit with a bunch of tape rolls
Just had to work with the stuff I got.
And I replaced the siderails with shiny black ones, and black leg+bolts+leveler.

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Nice job! Can you tell there are two layers? Why do you have imperfections? Is it because it wasn't smooth underneath or was it due to poor adhesion of the decals? I've got new decals for mine and the thought of hours and hours of scraping, sanding and filling and more sanding, along with removing the PF is not appealing.

#935 4 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Agree with all the posts above but I would say 2 minutes is overly optimistic. If this is your first time, then leave yourself plenty of time and don't rush it. I usually will cause another problem if in a hurry. Make sure you have the right size screw driver. Those Phillips screw heads are easy to strip.

About 15-20 mins if it's your first time, but I've now done it like 15-20 times when I was diagnosing my issues, so I really can do it in about 2 minutes (the removal of clock from the game, not taking clock apart too, that takes a few more mins); three connectors, removal of one plastic and 2 screws is all it is.)

2 months later
#1116 4 years ago

Blue looks great in the back glass, here's mine.

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#1124 4 years ago

It's a very complex game. If you don't know the game well, you will be rolling the dice a bit. Clock, kick outs, boards, powerball recognition, gumball machine, mini pf. If the game has 9.4h rom, play the litz cheat and see how the game deals with all the balls.

I've got a lot of mods available too

Good luck, it's a fantastic game!

#1127 4 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

I just got my TZ and I am still learning the game.... I have 9.4H installed.... whats litz cheat?
What mods have you got?

Litz cheat is started with buyin button upon starting a game.

Here's my mods if you are interested...

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/19263

2 weeks later
#1191 4 years ago

Mount the light to a Rubber post sleeve, Crazy glue will work. Slide it over the metal post.

3 weeks later
#1270 4 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

New shooter "Rod".20150925_120537.jpg 20150925_120453.jpg

That's cool!

#1290 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Just bought mine!! Really excited. Only got a couple games in but plays great. Looks pretty stock! I'll get pics. I'd like to hear what protectors are a must (haven't had time to read whole thread... I will). I'm thinking more in terms of longevity, not style type mods.

The protectors you need are for the slot machine hole, rocket switch and left inlane. Nothing more really needed. You want any mods, let me know, I'll hook you up.

#1292 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I was told by Chris @ HEP who did my PF to get protectors for the Gumball Exit and Slot. With the damage my PF had before, I went ahead and got the Rocket kicker protector as well. I'm thinking about getting a switch protector for the left inlane where the ball drops, but haven't been able to find one for sale yet. :/

cliffy has them, it's just a standard switch protector.

1 week later
#1336 4 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

I just don't dig all those TZ mods: slot machine, rocketship, camera, robot, talky tina, etc, etc, etc.... they all get in the way of the ball view....

I'm partial to mods and understand that some people don't like them, but I don't follow how they get in the way of ball view. Many of the mods actually highlight what to shoot for. For example, the invader is tied into the extra ball insert, robot ties into mb ready insert, camera to camera insert and the slot machine is just flat out cool, spinning when the ball passes through, for example.

Here's a pic of my modded out game, not much distraction really, everything is easily visible. T bird obscures pops a little, but it can be repositioned off to the side. Never have I lost track of the ball because a mod blocks the view. In some games, inserts are blocked (avenger in lanes for example) and a mod makes them either easier to see or easier to know when they are or aren't lit.

Pinball is all about lights, bells and whistles, things that enhance that are good.

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4 weeks later
#1371 4 years ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

Slot mod is in da house!

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Awesome! One of the coolest (and most fidgety to get right) TZ mods out there. Glad I could be of service. These are not for the faint of heart as it can be tricky to install and get right so the ball pass through properly and the reel spins right.

#1383 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Looks heavy, good job.
Here is one for all those TZ enthusiasts.
Yes, those are real pinballs, and yes the whole thing is securely anchored.
Finally, yes, there is a trick to doing this properly.
I have used this as a topper for over a decade I believe?
I really do not remember anymore.
I can tell you I purchased the "Eye Pyramid" topper LONG before the price insanity spike.
Too damn expensive now.
AKA collector generation of the "playfield garbage mods".
Pinball Decals Inc. has to be the worse greedy offender I have ever seen.
I was in Joann Fabrics a couple of days ago getting some Krylon Triple Thick.
I saw the "double headed dragon" for $2, not $300.
Wings were unbreakable too.
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Just looked at pinball decals site for TZ mods, and while I don't like to criticize other mods because I wouldn't like it if it were done to me, but wow those prices are high. They are the exact reason I started making mods. I mean $200 for this invader is really unfair to the community. I try to give pinsiders good deals... in many cases, I can do deals where they can get four maybe five mods for close to what they charge for a mod like this, and then they are done modding. I make mods to support my pinball addiction, not screw people. Some mods truly do cost more, largely because of the labor involved as they need to be painted and assembled (slot machine is a good example and the Masudaya robot is probably the mostly costly mod to find). This guy is trying to say his product is good because it has heat shrink...wtf?

http://www.pinballdecals.com/TwilightZoneInvader4Point0Page.html

#1385 4 years ago

I have them all, or most of them. And for other games too, LOTR, tspp, IJ, avengers, IM.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-twilight-zone-mods

Also have Masudaya robot for $90.

I give 10% discount on multiple mods, sometimes more if you buy a lot. Shipping always free in US. When I ship international I state on the customs form that the value is $10 and that it's a gift so you international guys don't get hit too hard. Most are very simple to install, none require soldering.

I sell them on eBay for more than pinside, no discounts on eBay. I've also started selling through mezel mods, they have great customer service and many other mods to add to an order.

1 week later
#1415 4 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Why wouldn't you just remove the whole clock and sit down at a table to do this work?

Yes, definitely take it out to work on it. It's one or two screws, the two connectors on the bottom of the clock and the connector for the motor under the playfield. Takes less than 5 mins to get it out and put back in.

#1420 4 years ago

I get about 50% bounce back, makes the game that much harder. Not sure if there is a fix or its normal.

3 weeks later
#1457 4 years ago

In test mode, are all optos hit for each time period every single time? Does clock time equal time shown on dmd? 99% of the issues with the clock are bad optos. Rottendog board is not a good solution, Ingos board is the only way to go.

3 weeks later
#1498 3 years ago

Remove the backboard, it's just a few easily accessible screws. I have the spiral decal and it was just peel and stick.

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1 week later
#1515 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Happy to say I have joined the club.
First order of business, the dreaded credit dot tells me:
Check Switch F5 Upper Right Flipper EOS
I assume first thing is to just get a visual, make sure the wires are connected to the EOS switch on that flipper.

Yes, check wires, but I think you need to check wires on all flippers, not just the upper one.

#1525 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

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Regarding the flipper EOS, the one complaining is this one, but the wires look fine. however, I will say this, what looks different on this one VS the others, the blade appears to be copper platted and one of the blades appears to have the copper worn off where the other half rubs against it, if that make sense. Would that cause this issue?
What do you guys do here? cliffy?
Other stuff:
Target next to the slot machine scoop is bent back, so ball has been hitting the scoop. I assume I just need a new target here?

What switch error are you getting? It might be a bad opto at the flipper board.

Cliffy for slot scoop.

Pinbits makes a reinforced target for the slot target. There is also a mod to reinforce the back of the existing target, search around.

#1528 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Check Switch F5 Upper Right Flipper EOS

F5 I believe refers to the opto. Switch the opto boards at the flipper buttons and see if the problem either goes away or moves with board.

#1531 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Oh, no.. Odd numbers are EOS's, the orange/black leads to the switched on the flipper mechs. Even numbers are the optos. The lower numbers are lower flippers, upper numbers are upper flippers.

Just checked switch matrix, you are right, f5 is the eos, not opto, my mistake. Says black-violet wire, j906-4. I suppose he could start checking continuity from connector to the flipper.

#1545 3 years ago

Check the switch the ball goes through to activate the mini pf.

3 weeks later
#1653 3 years ago

You can solder a paper clip to the back of a quarter and use it to secure it to a screw on one of the plastics.

2 weeks later
#1709 3 years ago

Depends on how much cash.

Quoted from Skyemont:QUESTION: Should I trade my TZ plus cash for a RRWOZ?

2 weeks later
#1794 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thanks great pics. I think mine is ok. Led light goes on when ball I. First position
Now I need to troubleshoot upper left flipper Opto. F8 error message

Check your flipper opto boards. Go into test mode and push flipper buttons, I think you should see f2, f4, f6 and f8 register iirc. Most likely bad opto. You can also swap boards on each side and see if problem follows.

#1797 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Thanks Lermods. I have to order some stuff from pin life can you post a link to Optos. I should get a few spares anyway

The boards I believe are getting harder to find and cost $25-35 each shipped. I got one here but looks like they are out of stock

https://ksarcade.net/type-1-flipper-opto-board-a-15878.html

#1798 3 years ago
Quoted from Archytas:

Hi All,
Just joined the club, will put up some photos of my game at some point. It has 2 issues currently which I'm going to have a go at fixing but would'nt mind being pointed in the right direction.
The main issue is the gumball is not working correctly, currently when I shoot a ball in it goes into the popper no problem, round and into the gumball and the game immediately loses track of it and instantly goes into a ballsearch (it doesn't even wait 10 seconds, just straight away does a ball search). After about 30 seconds it will release a ball from the gumball. I would have thought either the Geneva switch (which is brand new, the previous owner told me he completely replaced this and it is still flakey) or optos as the ball enters the gumball are at fault here but has anyone else had this issue?
Secondly my clock is super loud, even with the glass on. Can anyone recommend a way to quiet it down? I'm also having an issue where the top opto (so the 12 on the clock face) every 1 out of 4 rotations roughly of the hands or so does not trigger the opto, and the game give me a 'clock broken' error. The game has a new LED clock board in so would this be an opto issue? I'm not convinced it is the hand as this makes contact and breaks the beam 100% of the time on the other 3 optos.
Thanks for any advice!

Forget about the clock board in your game, new or not, and go buy ingos. You'll never have an issue again.

#1802 3 years ago
Quoted from Archytas:

Thanks for the advice, any link as to where I can get it from?

Search for user German pinball, that's Ingo. It's about $130 for the board shipped, worth every penny.

#1808 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Alot of times the opto just needs reheated on the flipper board.... ive fixed multiple opto board's from doing this.

I tried that on men, no luck.

1 month later
#2055 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Twilight Zone "Epic Mod Disaster"
DO NOT do this to your game.
It will NOT add an value to the machine.
$$$ for garbage.
This photo does not actually even include every mod either.
Some were non-reversible.
Twilight_Zone_Mod_Disaster.jpg

To each his own, I like it! And those are not my mods either.

2 months later
#2316 3 years ago

Some examples with backboard lights and trough light. Codors can be changed, white might look good on your game.

Quoted from Agent_Hero:

I'm in the club with a TZ that's just too dark for me. I don't want to color bomb it, but what's the best way to brighten it up a bit? I've seen a few people in this thread going with the Cointaker kit. Eh?

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3 weeks later
#2387 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballgeek:

Im unsure if this has been posted here before but all i can say is poor Tz
» YouTube video

Maybe he should focus on that credit dot first, it's probably a dot telling him to please stop with the mods. Call him and for $50 he will tell you how to make a mod, what a champ.

1 week later
#2420 3 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyapple:

Hi all. I just joined the club and picked up a TZ in decent shape but needs some love. Going to tear it down and give a good deep cleaning. There are a few things I could really use help with:
1) clock is broken. It moves correctly on test but not in game. I think from what I've read it's the board. Where's the best place to get one?
2) the game randomly resets into test mode. Not all the time but sometimes mid play.
3) I need a new/spare speaker panel. Anything available under 150? Or know how to fix a dent in the plastic?
4) flippers work but bottom ones are weak. Do I rebuild or something else?
5) inside the door to the left on the bottom of the game there's a random connector like a flipper button. One wire is broken off. Anyone know what's this part to? Here's a couple pics.
Thanks ahead of time. And if anyone knows of spare mods I will like to purchase some along the way. Pm me for those. Thanks!
Jimmy

Get clock board from ingo.

Flipper weakness may be from the opto boards at the flipper buttons. Try cleaning them with a qtip and rubbing alcohol. They may need to be replaced.

#2445 3 years ago

Your flippers may be weak because your interruptor on the flipper board is white, allow g too much reflective light in. Paint it black or cover the part that crosses the opto with black electrical tape. I had this same issue on my scared stiff.

1 month later
#2758 3 years ago
Quoted from wizard_mode:

Is it normal for a full plunge to brick off of the plunge scoop sometimes? I replaced the shooter spring and rubber tip thinking I was not getting a hard enough plunge. But it still bricks about 20% of the time. It seems like the scoop needs to be bent open or something. Before I go to work with some needle nose pliers and a blow torch, is it supposed to be like that?

No, not normal. Is your shooter rod aligned properly? Is the scoop aligned straight? Look from underneath. Are the welds broken on the scoop and bent in?

1 week later
#2806 3 years ago

Somewhat out of the blue, my game developed the dreaded reset. Started resetting when cold and when both flippers were pressed. Went through pinwiki and couldn't quite find the exact fix, but I think it's a bad br2/c5. I systematically and individually went through and unplugged j101, 102, 114 and the z connector, no change. Thought it might be the thermistor, but I swapped in a spare board I have that was repaired by John wart and the resets disappeared so far. The br was registering below 5 for resistance, which pinwiki suggests is too low so I think that's at least one issue. I don't have the proper tools to remove the rectifiers and capacitors (just a crappy solder sucker I use for transistors) nor much experience so off the board will go to John.

Seems like just a matter of time before we all start having reset issues.

#2808 3 years ago

The kahr board is a great tool, but it doesn't resolve the underlying problem. I send my boards out when issues like this arise. Costs me about $100 to get the board fixed, I consider it maintenance. On a $6k game, that's nothing, plus when/if I ever sell it, buyer has piece of mind the board is solid. I think I could fix it, but a board specialist can do it so much better and be more thorough finding anything else out of spec.

#2810 3 years ago

I wouldnt touch the boards unless its needed.

1 week later
#2852 3 years ago

Cliffys do a great job protecting high traffic areas. For TZ, I would put one on the slot scoop, the rocket switch and the left inlane drop.

2 weeks later
#2958 3 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

Hi i just joined the club
my Rocket kicker is really weak, it hardly kicks out the ball, every now and again it comes right, but generally its way to weak. How do i test it or fix it ? This is my first machine i'm a complete Noob, does the inside piece have a pad or something it looks pretty sparse in there like just a stick

First thing to check is to make sure the coil and the bracket are mounted securely. Then make sure there is no binding of the plunger. Make sure all of the connections are good.

1 month later
#3083 2 years ago
Quoted from Invader:

PinSound is awesome!
I mixed the Legacy, Tim_Kitzrow and jints56 soundpacks to the following:
» YouTube video
(old movie clip though, I have updated some sounds and volumes)

Nice backbox mod, like the color changing door.

3 weeks later
#3106 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Pay just for shipping?!?! Sounds like I've got a brand new topper and a new wall sign for the bar!
https://vintagily.com/search?type=product&q=twilight+zone

Have you ever ordered from them before? Looks like they mistyped on their sale, putting in 100% instead of 10%. They will likely cancel your order at 100% off. Lots of cool stuff for topper though.

#3108 2 years ago

I didn't order, but shipping for me would have been $25.

#3143 2 years ago

If i recall, you insert it turned a little to the right, maybe at 2 o'clock and then turn it back to 12 o'clock.

2 weeks later
#3198 2 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Awesome! Sadly, though, within a month after those ship out, we'll see them with about 5 LEDs added to them, mounted to a clear plastic piece, and selling on pinball sites for $140.

$119.99 actually, only three LEDs (color changing and flashing) and a metal mount from cliffy. . The robots are pretty rare and not $10.

http://lermods.com/products/twilight-zone-pinball-illuminated-color-changing-masudaya-robot-mod

#3203 2 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

Different maker, different style Robbie.
My point was that someone will take this cheap(but cool) $10 one, when it comes out in May, and throw some LEDs in it and charge a crazy amount of money for it.

I know, I was just being a little facetious, it's all good.

2 weeks later
#3288 2 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Does anyone have a good way to get the Superbands on the flippers without breaking anything? I worry that I am going to break something because I have to pull so hard. I wish there was a tool that you could use to stretch the band onto the flipper.
Thanks

Put them in hot water for a few minutes, they will slide right on.

#3294 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

IMHO, for LEDs, it completely depends on your tastes.. I like my game looking incandescent. I don't like it being in-your-face LENses. So I use Comet warm white single 5050 bulbs.
For flipper rubbers, jeez, anything except suprrbands. They have NO bounce and do not teach control.
Again, all IMHO..

I love superbands, have them on all my games. Like the way they play compared to regular rubber, easy to clean and no issues with control or lack thereof. Like you say, it's opinion and a matter of preference, to each his own.

1 week later
#3365 2 years ago
Quoted from onemoresean:

Thanks!
The topper is awesome to look at but distracting while playing due to glare.

Like the apron!

3 weeks later
#3477 2 years ago

A previous owner used the top holes on my game and it caused decal wrinkling. I would not use those top holes if you ever plan to again use the lower two holes.

#3549 2 years ago
Quoted from SteveO:

Is $5700 a fair price for a nice 100% working TZ?

Yes, maybe even low. Tz and ij have moved up in price a lot recently.

1 week later
#3695 2 years ago
Quoted from MikeHogue:

Had to show a few pictures of my TZ with the new black armor!
She's officially finished!

Love the black. I need to find someone to do it for me at a reasonable price.

#3725 2 years ago
Quoted from MikeHogue:

Had to show a few pictures of my TZ with the new black armor!
She's officially finished!

I inquired with a local place and for $140 I can get the legs, coin door, hinges, shooter housing, lock bar and rails done in black.

Never took off side rails, hope I don't damage them. Will use a putty knife.

Debating whether to put on new cab decals. Mine are in good shape except for some wrinkling around the legs. I just don't have a lot of hours to spend doing all the prep.

#3727 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Isn't your coin door already black?

Yes, but it's a bit beat up and the cost of having it redone and match the other components in texture is minimal.

#3766 2 years ago

Would you guys replace the cabinet decals on this game? They look very good in terms of color, but there is some leg wrinkling and on the right side a few pin holes. The front has a tear so I will replace that one, easy enough. Head decals, not shown are very good. I'm taking hardware off today for powder coating, but I really am hesitant to take on the cabinet side decals as time is a very big issue for me.

The wrinkling was caused by someone using the upper leg holes (my game as three).

20170415_080638 (resized).jpg

20170415_080626 (resized).jpg

20170415_080616 (resized).jpg

#3771 2 years ago

This is about 40 mins of sanding. I think a heat gun could be better. Using 100 grit paper and a festooned sander.

Pulled out the belt sander and the rest took 5 mins, but you have to be careful with a tool like that as it can easily gouge if you aren't careful. I'd guesstimate I could get the sides off in an hour with that tool, but I decided not to do the sides at this point.

20170415_103911 (yresized).jpg

20170415_110642 (resized).jpg

20170415_110651 (resized).jpg

#3773 2 years ago

All done. About 2 hrs total.

20170415_125509 (resized).jpg

#3776 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Nice job! About to tackle a decal project on my RFM... TZ will be next. Where did you get your decal from?

Can't remember. I've had them rolled up under my game the past three years. With that belt sander, I bet I could get the side decals off in an hour per side with 60 grit. I went back with 100, 150 and 220 grit. You really have to get all the roughness out as even small imperfections will show up. Also, never use wood putty to fill holes, especially if you do the wet method, as wood putty shrinks when water hits it and you'll get a divot. Use bondo!

Games is going to look great with the black armor.

#3781 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Yes, use bondo, I found out about the wood filler the hard way with the wet method on the front of the cab,
The sides and the head got the dry method treatment.
Lermods, how did you line up the decal on the cab, the placement looks great!

Thx. I eyeballed and used the start button as a reference point. The start button has to be in the middle of the spiral, if it's not, it will look really bad. I spent a lot of time looking at it to make sure it was right. The front decal is very forgiving on the game with a lot of extra black around the top and sides.

#3792 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Nice job! Did you fill the coin door hole to apply the decal? Did you cut the coin door hole after the decal was installed?

I cut the hole for the coindoor after the decal was applied. You need an exacto knife with a very sharp blade to trim it. Decal was applied using wet method, Dawn and water.

#3794 2 years ago

They are all decals. Best way to prevent wrinkling is with metal cabinet protectors. Pinball life sells a set for $15.

#3797 2 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

Hmm... you sure about that?

I'm sure coyote will chime in, but I thought all were decals. Mine is from June 93 and it's decaled.

#3800 2 years ago
Quoted from wizard_mode:

I guess wood grain could show through a decal too...

Decals will show every flaw underneath, including rough sanding marks. That's why it's critical to have a perfectly flat and clean surface.

#3821 2 years ago

Well, my game is from June 93 and it definitely has decals. I believe they are factory as the rails had never been removed.

#3834 2 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Silkscreened on to white vinyl after the white vinyl was already applied to the cab I believe.

Maybe, I did not realize this, my mistake if this is considered silk screened. But, my front decal had a tear in it, seemed like a decal to me, and my leg areas are wrinkling. Didn't know silkscreen can tear and wrinkle.

#3874 2 years ago

I picked up the metal cabinet protectors. Is there any reason I have to screw them in to the cabinet? Can I just put the bolts through both the leg and protector without screwing in the protector?

#3913 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Thanks again but now this one is out of stock...

I think I have an extra one. Let me check tonight.

#3916 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

Thanks man, I appreciate it!

Thanks, that's surely an option! Let's hear it from Lermods first!

This is what i have, Is it what you are looking for?

2017042495104548 (resized).jpg

#3920 2 years ago

My game.is all powder coated and back together, came out great, love the black.

20170424_204320 (resized).jpg

#3926 2 years ago

Here is a link to the one we sell. It has install instructions with pics of the correct orientation.

http://lermods.com/products/pinball-machine-remote-battery-holder

#3935 2 years ago

WPC games generally need to have nvram soldered on to the board, nobody is going to do that unless they are really good at soldering or are having their board repaired already. A remote battery holder is a great solution that eliminates the risk of board damage. It's not hard to remember to change the batteries every two or three years. You can even have them made with wire long enough to be placed by the coindoor making battery changes even easier.

#3955 2 years ago

The clock doesn't read the correct time when the gsme is off, only in attract mode.

Quoted from cavalier88z24:

I don't care about the clock reading correct time when it's off. Lol.

3 weeks later
#4181 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Blue (which doesn't photograph well.)

Put two color changers in there.

#4199 2 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I've re-decaled 2 games now with TZ being the second, and everything Chosen_s said is really accurate. I didn't however, do mine "wet" with rapid tac, I did them dry because when doing the entire cabinet, I didn't want to have to wait for one side to dry before doing the other side. If you chose to do them dry, a "plug" panel for the coin door helps tremendously when doing the front.
I used a Bosch rotary sander very very similar to the festool sander to remove all the old decals, this process using 60 grit sandpaper. I guess the most important thing when doing decals is patience and preparation. Like Chosen_S said with bondo on the cabinet- make sure the cabinet is perfectly smooth, free of grain lines and nicks. T Hose things will stand out on a mostly black decaled game. THe other thing that's important is use a tack rag to wipe down the cab just before applying the decals. Try to do the decaling in a low-dust environment if you can. Don't do them outside.
Here are some photos of mi re-decal job on my TZ.

Looks great!

4 weeks later
#4421 2 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Black armor looks good on TZ, and any game actually.

Yes it does!

20170424_204320 (resized).jpg

#4426 2 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

did you spray the black or powder coat it ? BTW pinball Life has great rubber feet I got for mine it looks great

It's powder coated except the coin door, which was sprayed.

#4429 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Wait.
Wasn't it *already* black?

Coin door was a little rough so I resprayed it when I replaced the front decal.

Im actually leaving the club I have to make room for a few other games coming in, dile and Sw pro, so I had to let this go. It's a great game and I will regret, but I'm the only one who ever plays it, and I think my family will like those better. Time for someone else to enjoy the game.

#4446 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

How hard is it to put mirror blades? I was thinking of adhesives because im not confident in drilling a screw

Very easy. Unscrew the hinge bolt, install that end of the blade, use a clamp to hold the other end in place, drill small pilot holes, install screws. Double stick carpet tape can work well too, especially if clearance is an issue.

3 months later
#4828 2 years ago

That ride is gone now, right? I think of all the rides in Disney, it might have been my favorite.

2 weeks later
#4875 2 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

If I recall, I found mine at Home Depot

Yes, home Depot. You get two in a package for like $3. It's in the hardware isle, 100% fix.

3 months later
#5525 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I'm installing the ingo clock board. I have the instructions and looks straight forward. I am also swapping out the clock housing. How much more involved is that. The gears sin the back scare me...Anyone have any install details. Hoping I just replace the old housing with the new when changing the clock board.

It’s not difficult at all, can’t remember the details when I did it, but clock has to come out to replace the board anyway. I think I got to a point where the entire process takes like 5 mins. Main thing to watch is don’t lose the e- clip that holds the hands on and make sure the hands are at 12 when you reinstall. The gears are a non-issue, clean them and add just a little lube.

#5532 1 year ago
Quoted from merccat:

I agree other than adding lube. These gears were designed , like almost everything in a pinball machine, to run dry. The problem with lube is that it collects any dust/dirt floating around then edventually dries into a glue-like substance over the years.

Dry lube, like for a bicycle chain works fine.

6 months later
#6290 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

my buy in button is not lighting up. i changed the diode 1N004 and kept the polarity with the cathode end connected to the red/purple wire. when i stick an led in it the bulb barely lights up (i measure about 2 volts across the outlet) if i measure the voltage behind the diode it is measuring about 7 volts. any ideas? I resoldered the wires in case it was a bad solder joint but to no avail...

Try the bulb in the start switch in the buy in switch, I thought different bulbs were used in start buttons compared to gi, can’t recall the number, I could be wrong.

2 months later
#6582 1 year ago

Could be a bad solder joint on the battery holder connection to the board. You’d have to pull the board and test for continuity from the back of the board to the holder battery terminals.

3 months later
#6832 9 months ago
Quoted from Moonshot:

Looking to add a gumball machine light and color changing door mod for my TZ.
I need help choosing, I see there is a dazler and also a gumball light kit from pinbits that changes color from white to red.
Any advice on which to purchase also which is the best back glass door color changing mod.
Thanks

Rock has the door panel mod rock914

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1015-rock-custom-pinball/00730-twilight-zone-door-panel-mod

8 months later
#7644 38 days ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

New to the club (thanks Steve). 153 pages to look at and no Key Posts, So I have a couple of questions that have prolly been asked or addressed before, so please bear with me.
Just making sure- clock always goes to midnight when powering game on?
Any suggestions or pics of LED lighting in the backbox to get the most out of it color wise, without it looking like one of those color-bombed eBay kits?
The top habit trail seems to give me a bit of a bounce often when it first hits the diverter(?) that lowers it to the playfield. What are you guy doing to address the bounce? Some of that blue Stern dead rubber?
I believe I read that 9.4h is the ROM to get for home, is that correct? Game currently has L3- any big differences?
I want to say I remember playing someone's TZ that had some sort of lit up backboard decal or? Is there one, or am I not remembering it correctly?
I don't remember seeing those gray switch covers on the mini pf, and there was a game HEP was working on a bit ago where he was mounting them on the underside. Is there an actual kit/mod for this or is it completely custom? While I'm on it, how does the mini pf come off- waiting on a manual to arrive.
and lastly (for now)- is there a Goodway to light the gumball machine? And a source for NOS or repro Clear plastics for gumball machine?
Thank you~

We have a lit up backboard, bought the decal from pinball pimp I believe.

https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fjurassic-park-pinball-led-strip-trough-light-kit-byw-pnb-led-str

1 month later
#7709 3 days ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

they are 6v leds, and if I could get them to plug into the GI that would be great
I made myself the following mods in the pictures[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What do you mean you made the mods yourself in the pics? You are using pics from our website, that’s our camera and our led strip, and you took a pic of our Robby from our eBay ad. Not very cool. I have no problem with you making your own mods, but when you claim something is yours and it’s not, and you use someone else’s picture, you cross the line.

In fact, I’ve seen the pics for those other mods around, I’d bet those aren’t yours either.

https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Ftwilight-zone-pinball-illuminated-camera-mod

ebay.com link

#7711 3 days ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Looks like an awesome lot of work. Very nicely done!!

Thanks, but these are not his mods, they are ours.

#7713 3 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I was willing to believe it but then I saw the Robby the Robot with the custom made bracket, and I thought “this guy made a custom bracket for a mod and he doesn’t know how to wire lights into a game?” Also all your mods have alligator clips (thanks Lermods!) and you can just clip them to both wires on any GI bulb.
I believe the slot machine and camera, and possibly Robby the robot are intended to be interactive though so you might want to hook him up properly

We actually use a genuine cliffy bracket for the robbie so I can't take credit for that.

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