(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (5 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (3 years ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (2 years ago)

Post #11803 How to Add 3rd Magnet. Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #11810 Third Magnet Parts List Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #13048 Board replacement options. Posted by DumbAss (1 year ago)

Post #14049 Flipper cabinet opto board data Posted by DumbAss (10 months ago)

Post #14166 More key board data Posted by DumbAss (9 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3584 7 years ago

Hello TZ club members and any members that might be interested in a potential deal. I currently have my 2017 Bryan Kelly restored Addams Family for sale. It is a dream come true and perfect in every way. To make a long story short, When put my TAF for sale, I had (still have) other stuff going on and I had to make the very tough decision to put it and BSD for sale. At that time, a potential trade + cash deal was not considered.

After selling my BSD 2 days ago and after careful consideration, a possible trade + cash deal involving my TAF for a very nice TZ (pretty much the only machine I would do a trade + cash deal for) is looking like something I might be able to do. TAF is still for sale but now that BSD has sold, a potential deal for TAF is possible. I still have a need to sell TAF but if I can get the right deal plus a nice TZ, I can see this happening.

I honestly don't know if there are any TZ owners out there wanting a TAF in the nicest condition possible but go ahead and shoot me a PM if you are. Mostly looking for a nice to super nice TZ. Not interested in a project TZ at the moment. If you wish to check out my TAF, go into my ads profile or go into the Market Place. I posted the full restoration by Bryan from start to finish here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taf-restoration-by-bryan-kelly

My TAF has a HEP restored playfield, mods, color DMD, OCD board, Black cloud, Black powder coat job by Ron Woodard, Modfather paint job on thing and thing box, Chrome plated parts under the playfield, every part was replaced with new or fully restored. It plays like a dream. Has about 50 plays only on it at the moment.

My ad in the Market has listed everything TAF has. You can check it out here https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/47014

Sorry for taking up the space in the TZ club but I just thought this would be the best way possible to reach out to TZ owners.

Thanks a lot guys!

#3659 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Hell, I can ramble on for hours about TZ crap. And then another few days about WCS crap. And then Safecracker and CV crap.
Thank godd I don't like hearing myself talk.

Hey Coyote,

I know this might be a bit off topic but I love Harper's Ferry! Love the casino and the royalicious sandwiches are the Bomb!!!

Looking to become a TZ member soon!

#3661 7 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

If you're ever in the area, lemme know, stop on by.
I live outside the town, in the backwoods. Yes, I own a banjo.

LOL!!! Sounds like a plan! I love the drive to DC from Harper's Ferry too. Might be up there in a few months. Last time I was there, was right around April, maybe March 2015 and It was snowing! I stayed at the Casino Hotel, which was really nice

#3663 7 years ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

KornFreak, you really shouldn't let go of that TAF! Even if it's for such a beauty as TZ

Trust me, I don't want to sell it but at this point in time, It's a move I must make. I got other stuff going on at the moment. Just sold my BSD and my 2017 modded Metallica is next

BSD has given me some room to do a Sell + Trade for TAF. TZ is about the only machine I would do that for. I plan on keeping my all time favorite Indiana Jones tho. I played some TAF today and that thing plays amazing! So you like TAF better that TZ?

#3665 7 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Wow man I was going to offer to trade for my sample TZ, which has the prototype playfield, 3rd magnet installed (with optos), correctly wired door flashers, EL wire star field back board, plus every mod available.... then I saw your price for the TAF! Holy Shniekies!

And I'm losing money! This TAF is decked out! Let's see your TZ...you never know!

#3666 7 years ago

What are the differences between a sample TZ with a proto playfield VS a "regular" TZ? Thanks!

#3668 7 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

This thread documents all the differences with photos between a sample and regular TZ: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sample-tz (thanks, of course, to Coyote for listing everything)
Long story made short, there was a lot of stuff that changed/removed as TZ manufacturing when to full production.

Thank you!!

#3696 7 years ago
Quoted from MikeHogue:

Had to show a few pictures of my TZ with the new black armor!
She's officially finished!

Did you restore it yourself? Looks awesome!

#3699 7 years ago
Quoted from MikeHogue:

Yep. I completely restored it myself!
Believe it or not but I picked this up for $500 a few years back. It was in five boxes of parts as the prior owner lost interest in it. I never owned a TZ before so I needed the internet to help to put it back together. Quite the puzzle.
It's got new decals, a clearcoated playfield, new translight and a plastic set. Every assembly has been rebuilt. I have just over a grand into it......... not counting my labor.

Cool! Nice job! Enjoy!

#3789 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Thx. I eyeballed and used the start button as a reference point. The start button has to be in the middle of the spiral, if it's not, it will look really bad. I spent a lot of time looking at it to make sure it was right. The front decal is very forgiving on the game with a lot of extra black around the top and sides.

Nice job! Did you fill the coin door hole to apply the decal? Did you cut the coin door hole after the decal was installed?

1 week later
#3941 7 years ago

Hello TZ club,

Don't have a TZ yet but preparing myself to own one pretty soon. I got a question...... Is it true that the clock assembly gets really hot and holes must be drilled around the housing to keep it from overheating? Thanks!

#3944 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Heat would primarily be caused by the old incandescent bulbs and overheating probably from someone putting the wrong bulbs in.
Indigo's replacement board supports LED's so that removes most heat. Also there are rebuilt boards on ebay that have LED's soldered in where the bulb sockets used to be. Those are only about 35 bucks vs over 100 for the Indigo board. Because Indigo was on holiday for a month I went with one of those to get my clock running while I waited and it works perfectly fine.

Good to know, Thanks!

#3983 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Argh.
Effin' argh.
Out of the blue today, game started resetting on the right flipper. Not all the time, just.. *sometimes*. Not 5v related, may be coil related, as coil was warmer over the left flipper. But still. Argh.

I'm sure you can fix that no problem

#3985 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yeah.. I just wanna be able to *play* the game without having to worry about X or Y or even Z..

Don't we all

1 week later
#4086 6 years ago

So I'm finally in the club! Got it from a fellow pinsider. The game is in amazing shape and has lots of cool mods! Just got it off the truck today so I'll post more pics later. I would like to thank Coyote for guiding me through the process. He was very informative and helpful.

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#4092 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Glad you got your game man!! Coyote is THE MAN. Nobody knows more about TZ.

Thank you sir! Coyote really helped me and yes, he really knows everything there is to know about TZ!

Quoted from Coyote:

Congrats! Looks in really good shape!

Yes it is! I will post a few more pics later today. The game has pretty much all the mods available out there. The only missing mod is (I think) the piano mod, which I intend on buying very soon. First time playing TZ so I got a few questions please:

Can a new game start with the Powerball? Hasn't happened yet but it got me thinking the other day....

I have played a few games and have noticed that sometimes I only lock 2 balls (doors) and then multiball starts. Is this the code or something? Usually it takes 3 locked balls to start MB, but then again, this is my first time playing TZ.

How difficult is it to install the piano mod? Do the light sockets screw or twist into the piano? Seen several versions of the piano mod.

Thanks!

#4095 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Yes, you can start a game with a powerball if it was left in the trough at the end of the last game and its the next up.
MB can be started either way, not sure if it impacts jackpot levels.
I do know that if you get multiball and a poweball is in the mix and you score the jackpot using the powerball it will double the jackpot.

Ok so basically MB can start with only 2 balls locked, correct?

By the way, The game came with a brand new Mirco playfield set. I have no intentions of doing a playfield swap at the moment mainly because the playfield in the game is in excellent shape. I will post pics of the playfield set later today. It is clear coated and no drilling required. It will sell shipping included and for a bit of a discount. PM if interested. Thanks!

#4096 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

This was discussed a few pages back in this thread, I believe.
In short, factory default, the first multiball you only HAVE to lock one. You CAN lock two. If you lock one, the jackpot starts at 15million. If you lock two, the jackpot stats at 50million. After the first multiball, all subsequent multiballs require two locks.
But, again - you can change this to your heart's desire.

Got it. Thanks a lot!

#4100 6 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

What color is the area between the flippers, red or pink?

Still at work so I will check on that in a little while. But I'm pretty sure is red. Don't remember seeing pink anywhere....Again, I will post pics soon.

#4102 6 years ago

Pics of the Mirco playfield set. Looks like red to me

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#4104 6 years ago

It is! Looks really nice!

#4106 6 years ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

And I can see that it's a 3 magnet version.

Yep

#4108 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Very nice! Been considering that as my playfield has a couple rough spots... but nothing severe enough to warrant the effort.
Do they sell the mini playfield sepetately?

I have no idea. This set came with my game.

#4124 6 years ago

So I would like to put some fresh batteries in the game. I know the clock is affected by having batteries vs NVRAM. Do you guys change batteries with the game ON or OFF? Will it affect the clock if I change the batteries with the game OFF? The game has a remote battery holder but I still get really nervous (fried a DE PS board one time) changing them batteries with the game ON for some reason. I usually NVRAM my games but not this one

#4126 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Turn game on.
Replace batteries.
If you replace without batteries, system will reset back to factory defaults.

Thanks! I was just wondering about the clock being affected but I'll change them batteries with the game ON.

#4139 6 years ago

Been noticing the top ball diverter next to the mini playfield moving up at random for no particular reason during play. It happens very rarely and at random but it does happen. For example, The ball is moving around the playfield and all of the sudden the diverter kicks up one time. Then it doesn't happen for like 10 games or so. It happens at random and no particular solenoid seems to trigger it. Thanks!

#4141 6 years ago
Quoted from RVH:

Maby check to see if the coil is mounted the correct direction, if it got turned around when working on it it can short on something nearby making it activate.
I did this once and it would fire and also some other coils would fire with it.
It was tough to figure out as it took a few years to rotate to that position to start giving me a problem.
Good luck

Good info, I'll start there. Thanks!

#4143 6 years ago
Quoted from RVH:

Here's a picture of my now, I had put it on upside down before.
The solder lugs are away from the playfield towards the bottom of the cabinet. my tech had put some electrical tape around the lugs. maybe you can try that,I took the electrical tape off though.

Awesome! Thank you for the picture! I'll check on it later tonight for sure.

#4145 6 years ago
Quoted from RVH:

Here's a picture of my now, I had put it on upside down before.
The solder lugs are away from the playfield towards the bottom of the cabinet. my tech had put some electrical tape around the lugs. maybe you can try that,I took the electrical tape off though.

I checked mine and the coil lugs are towards the top. There were a bunch of wires near the lugs too. My question is: Are we reversing the coil lugs to avoid them touching other wires? Or are we doing this because the coil was installed incorrectly in the first place? Thanks!

#4148 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

It would be to avoid wires (or any other conductive material such as the bracket as you wouldn't want to energize that). Coils don't care about direction, their just big dumb electromagnets.
Edit: They do care a *little* in that you typically want to avoid having the lugs by the coil stop end. Doesn't cause any issues but can potentially extend the life of the solder joints if they are a hair further from the vibration. But if you have a good solid joint to begin with it won't be anything to worry about.

Awesome! I'll reverse the coil lugs and see if that takes care of it. Thanks!

#4149 6 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

when the ball is hit up the right ramp, and the diverter dumps the ball back on the playfield, if a switch is not contact
within a certain amount of seconds, the diverted actuates as an "auto-flush" because of bouce backs on the diverter. it's written into the software.

Yes sir, I have noticed that when the ball travels way too fast and the diverter doesn't quite catch the ball. It creates a flush. But my issue happens totally at random and necessarily when a bounce back happens.

#4151 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Does the game make the sound effect of dumping? Is it a flat pull back and release, or a twitch?

No sounds at all, just a flat pull back and release once every 10 games or so. Totally at random

#4154 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Hey guys -
Leaving this Wednesday to hit the road, from the East Coast to Reno, NV with a side-stop in Willits, CA.
So, as much as I like helping ya'll, I may be silent for a while.
If anyone's in Ely, Nevada, let me know. I love US50 west of there.

Good luck Coyote! Drive safely!

#4157 6 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Just got these back from the machine shop. Very excited to get one installed and see how it looks.

They look nice! Are they difficult to install? Does the mini playfield have to come off?

#4168 6 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

You'll need to drill out the rivets to get the wiring harness out from the old lamp, and then either use new rivets or screws (my plan) to put them on the new lamp. I'll do this tonight/tomorrow and document the process.

Sounds good. This is something I'm looking forward to. Documenting the process will surely make things a lot easier for a lot of us

#4180 6 years ago

I like blue. How easy was it to install?

#4188 6 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Just wrote up some instructions for how to change out the power playfield lamp: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1vLcQAf36xNg7wMxDtN5OjyFojRKBxq9J3ushS_IHC0o/edit

Thank you! How much are they selling for?

#4202 6 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I've re-decaled 2 games now with TZ being the second, and everything Chosen_s said is really accurate. I didn't however, do mine "wet" with rapid tac, I did them dry because when doing the entire cabinet, I didn't want to have to wait for one side to dry before doing the other side. If you chose to do them dry, a "plug" panel for the coin door helps tremendously when doing the front.
I used a Bosch rotary sander very very similar to the festool sander to remove all the old decals, this process using 60 grit sandpaper. I guess the most important thing when doing decals is patience and preparation. Like Chosen_S said with bondo on the cabinet- make sure the cabinet is perfectly smooth, free of grain lines and nicks. T Hose things will stand out on a mostly black decaled game. THe other thing that's important is use a tack rag to wipe down the cab just before applying the decals. Try to do the decaling in a low-dust environment if you can. Don't do them outside.
Here are some photos of mi re-decal job on my TZ.

Looks great! In what way does the coin door "plug" help when decaling a cabinet? Thanks!

#4205 6 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

After re-decaling several arcade machines and now a few pinball machines, I have discovered that when doing the coin door area it is much much easier to apply the decal with the cabinet in its normal orientation, and the side decals are much easier when laid parallel to the floor.
Doing the coin door area in this way removes a lot of the problems of laying the decal on it with the coin door panel .
I decaled earth shaker with the coin door parallel to the floor, it took me about eight tries, even doing it wet to get it in the correct position, and I fought it wrinkling because of the coin door hole.
When I Decaled the coin door panel on TZ yesterday, it took me one try and about three minutes as opposed to the 30 minute ordeal with doing it the other way Decaled the coin door panel on TZ yesterday, it took me one try and about three minutes as opposed to the 30 minute ordeal with doing it the other way. No coin door plug needed, but others experience may differ.
I only do the wet method on small pieces, definitely dry method on big pieces

Thanks for the explanation! If it's not too much to ask, What do you use as a plug for the coin door hole?

#4207 6 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

You'd need to make a template and create a piece of wood.
If you will pull the backing of the decal and cut 1/4 of the backing off, then place it on the front exactly where you want it, then pull the rest of the backing off, use a squeegee and the rest will fall in place without the need of the plug

Got it. Thanks!

#4212 6 years ago

New TZ owner question here. I need to relocate my machine to a different room in the house. Due to fitment issues around the house, I have to remove the legs and set the machine upright. I will put a blanket on the floor and just slide the machine into the room. My question is: Do I have to remove the balls from the gumball machine? If so, how? Will the machine automatically load the balls back into the gumball machine upon start up? Thanks!

#4217 6 years ago

Thanks for the help guys! I love this club! I was just confused about the gumball machine but now I feel great knowing how to do this properly. It's a very heavy machine so wish me luck! Only the wife is helping me on this move

#4219 6 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

You can do it dude!
Use a piece of stuff cardboard and it will help you slide it

Thank you! Using both cardboard and a moving blanket

#4231 6 years ago

So I moved TZ to another room in the house. All went really smooth. Removed all balls, set the game upright, used cardboard and moving blankets to slide it into the room, put the legs back on and started a game. Everything works great but now, the slot machine kickout will randomly kick some balls to the right flipper, some balls SDTM and some balls to the very tip of the right flipper!

Before moving it, the slot machine would ALWAYS kick it out to the right flipper. The move was from one room to the other and nothing hit or moved the slot scoop at all! I did a visual inspection on it and it all looks to be in place.

Since 50% of the balls do hit the right flipper and the other 50% don't, Is it safe to assume the scoop itself is not to blame here? Do you guys think the coil mechanism is causing this? Any help is much appreciated, as this has turned into a rather annoying issue

Yes, the game is perfectly leveled. Thanks!

#4234 6 years ago
Quoted from gblaz:

Its probably not necessarily related to your move, but 90% of problems with the slot machine kickout are due to a broken weld. Its easy to remove the assembly to check (you can leave the switch attached). Just unscrew a few screws and the whole assembly can be removed to look at it. There is a switch riveted to the scoop - you can just leave that on and still remove the scoop enough to inspect it.
There is a weld on each side of the scoop. The factory welds are small and not strong enough for the abuse that scoop takes. One is probably broken. Now fixing it is another story... You can find someone to redo the welds for you or you can buy a pricey replacement scoop.
While you are in there you should also look at the target to the left of the scoop. Its probably bent back as well. You can buy a replacement that is built with the extra reinforcement this switch needs.
Good luck,
- Gblaz

Thanks! If I remove the scoop, Do i have to rivet the switch when it comes time to install it?

#4238 6 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

The switch for the slot scoop is held with small bolts, if that's what you are asking, so no rivets are necessary.

Thanks! I'll inspect it tonight. Pretty weird it's doing this. Before relocating the machine, it would always kick the ball to the right flipper

#4240 6 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

You could try just loosening the playfield screws that hold the scoop and see if you can move it move the scoop slightly. I would think you can see any weld problems without removing the scoop from the machine.

Great idea! I'll report back my findings. Thanks!

#4242 6 years ago

Wondering if anybody has the clock millions mod? What are your thoughts on it? Interested in buying one being sold by a store in Spain.

Also interested in the piano mod. Which one do you recommend? Does the clock have to be removed to install the piano? Thanks!

1 week later
#4320 6 years ago

So I had some weird stuff happen today. I got the "POWERBALL" call out when a regular steel ball was served to the shooter lane. It happened only once. I then Played a few more games and the actual powerball was correctly sensed several times. Hasn't happened again since.

Then during Powerball multiball, I noticed that one ball was not autolaunched and was just sitting in the shooter lane waiting to be plunged.

I then started another Powerball multiball and noticed the first ball out of the shooter mechanism jump over the mini gate (mini diverter gate) landing in the shooter lane while the other 2 balls were correctly autolaunched.

Any idea why this stuff is happening? Thanks in advance!

#4323 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Just so happens your prox board missed a ball. May need to be adjusted, depending on how often it happens.

Sounds like the upper metal trough guide needs to be bent down, so that balls aren't launched into the air.

Quoted from merccat:

The sensor for the powerball in the ball trougth may need to be adjusted (position). I've heard twisting the wires can also help. If its too far from the steel ball it will sense no steel ball so it will think its a powerball.
Auto launcher... may need to check/clean opto.

Thank you both! I'll look into that. Coyote, by "metal trough guide" you mean the actual arm that kicks the ball into the shooter lane? Sorry for the question, just want to make sure. Thanks!!!

#4325 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No, take the apron off. You'll see that the top (away from player) metal guide has a roof on it. That 'roof' is probably too high, and should be pressed down (to angle the ball more lateral than vertical).

Gotcha! Thanks!!!!

1 week later
#4380 6 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Working on mine today

You doing a full restore on it? Restoration is part of the fun! Enjoy!

#4382 6 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Not a full restoration, I had the armor powder coated and I cleaned and fixed a few things, still a few things to do... almost finished

Nice!!!

#4415 6 years ago

Just finished installing a solid brass clock millions mod. It is very well made and looks awesome!!! Street lamp mod is next

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#4416 6 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Just about finished...

Your game looks REALLY nice! Congrats!

#4420 6 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

That, sir, is a cool mod! Where did you buy it?

Thank you sir!

#4431 6 years ago
Quoted from AlexSMendes:

That, sir, is a cool mod! Where did you buy it?

Been trying to edit my previous post but the editing rules are different now. So I decided to just reply again. Got it from a fellow pinsider. Thanks!

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