(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

8 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (5 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (3 years ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (2 years ago)

Post #11803 How to Add 3rd Magnet. Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #11810 Third Magnet Parts List Posted by mbaumle (2 years ago)

Post #13048 Board replacement options. Posted by DumbAss (1 year ago)

Post #14049 Flipper cabinet opto board data Posted by DumbAss (9 months ago)

Post #14166 More key board data Posted by DumbAss (8 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider johnttwo.
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#10239 2 years ago

Looking for some advice. Rookie pinner but trying to learn.

I had the clock is broken error and a friend told me to get a new LED board so i did and put it in. Before the swap the time was correct, now with the new board it is reading with the optos wrong top is :45 hour hand is all wrong as well still getting the error message. Is there a way to calibrate this unit?

thanks

John
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#10241 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

You should never have more than 1 minute opto open (active) at a time. With both those shots, it is reporting both :30 and :45 optos closed.
Check that plugs were plugged in correctly, and that the optos, if socketed, are in tightly.

Yoteeeeee that was it thanks so much! Cycled it several times clock is now working.

Thanks again!!!

#10242 2 years ago

Opps spoke too soon, worked perfert for 3 games now back to clock broken, but optos working, hmmmmmmm

Any suggestions?

#10249 2 years ago

I think I figured out my new problem. I purchased the casper electronics clock pc board part 103501 from Marco. The optos do not stick out as far as the original board.

Any advice on my next move?

Thanks in advance

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#10254 2 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I had and fixed this issue. See post 10157

Brilliant and way better then my black tape on the back of the minute hand. I will be doing your conversion.

I find it off the new one's are shorter then the originals. Is it typical in the pin world for remakes to be so different.

I gotta step up and learn the search function better

10 months later
#11939 2 years ago

So I have been trying to figure out how adjust a pinball plunger.

Everyone says to do it and there so few instructions on how to do so. Right now my plunger is a litte over 1/4" high on the center of one machine of mine TZ and another machine the plunger is to the right about a 1/4 of an inch.

I like tuning things up and have no trouble spending the time to make them perfect.

With my TZ I loosed the screws took it out of my machine cleaned it up and put it back in making sure it is as low in the hole as I can put it. Right back at being over 1/4" high.

The rod is not bent since rotating it keeps it in the same high spot.

The first time I looked a shooter rod I was like how can this be adjusted the front of the rod holder sits flat on the machine and the hole and sleeve are fixed on that so that is a no go unless you bend the sleeve on the front mounting plate and that is not going to end well I imagine.

I have searched YouTube and Pinside with nothing other then loosing the screws and slightly shifting its limited amount to move it into the center of the ball.

So where can a guy go to learn how to adjust the plunger to hit the center of the ball? LTG I need help???

#11941 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Lift the playfield, and right on the inside of the cabinet you'll see 3 screws that hold a metal plate down right where the plunger is attached. Loosen the screws and then you can move the whole assembly to your liking before tightening everything back up.

Okay I get that and tried that. My bottom screw is hitting the bottom of the triangular hole. How do I make it lower by 1/4"

Thanks

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#11944 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Your playfield is held in place by two hooks that mate up with the lockbar receiver when lowered. The angles on those brackets should all be 90 degrees. Twilight Zone is a heavy playfield and those brackets tend to sag after awhile. True those up and you should have enough play in the shooter assembly to get things lined up perfect.

Wow this make sooooooo much sense.

Thanks and here all I’ve been hearing is adjust the plunger!!

#11949 2 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Your playfield is held in place by two hooks that mate up with the lockbar receiver when lowered. The angles on those brackets should all be 90 degrees. Twilight Zone is a heavy playfield and those brackets tend to sag after awhile. True those up and you should have enough play in the shooter assembly to get things lined up perfect.

Looks like they are not bend up at all.

So whats the next way to get the shooter rod centered up?

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#11952 2 years ago
Quoted from Zee:

Put little rubber pads under the playfield hooks?

If I put 1/4" of felt on the hooks will the hooks then hit the glass?

3 weeks later
#12066 1 year ago

So after getting lost in the zone, then the restart it said you are now entering the twight zone. I really had no idea what to do. Just seemed like a normal new game but I got a ton of points after the drain. Is this a special mode?

10 months later
#13460 1 year ago

I seen these posted in another TZ thread. I am not very good on using this forum and was wonder if anyone has used these switches as a replacements on the mini playfield?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TYWX86/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1

Thanks

John

#13463 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Hmmm they're pc mount...are you talking about replacements for the originals? or the Tangles aftermarket ones?

For replacing the originals. Switch leaf fell of of one.

#13465 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

They look too short.
Get one of these - https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-sub-microswitch-5647-12693-07-with-22-flat-blade.html if blade is too long cut to length.
No need to replace all of them. The one the blade broke off of you may be able to snap back on.
If you replace the switch, get the wires in the same spots and silver band end of diode facing the same way. If you replace the diode a 1N4004 or 1N4007 will work fine.
LTG : )

Quoted from LTG:

They look too short.
Get one of these - https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-sub-microswitch-5647-12693-07-with-22-flat-blade.html if blade is too long cut to length.
No need to replace all of them. The one the blade broke off of you may be able to snap back on.
If you replace the switch, get the wires in the same spots and silver band end of diode facing the same way. If you replace the diode a 1N4004 or 1N4007 will work fine.
LTG : )

Thanks LTG I really need to stop by your place soon!!!!

Did you see the price on those other ones? Like 7 bucks for 25 of them. They were suggested in a different TZ thread as a replacement. 25 that is a life time supply.

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