i have a line on one of these twilight zones, what is a good price for machine in good working order with minimal wear? i couldnt find any on here or ebay?

i know this is not the most unbiased place to ask this question, but i am considering buying one more pin(i have run out of room) and i have a chance to pick up the twilight zone, i was also considering a monster mash or medieval madness, i see that the twilight zone is ranked 3 on the list here, but interestingly the price isnt as high as what you would see for a Monster or Medieval. What are your guys thoughts, i havent actually played any of these games. It is not exactly easy to go to an arcade and find these things anymore?

Anyone have any Pinblade images for free?

my TZ is popping out 2 balls in the shooter lane, but not at the same time, it shoots out one then about 2 seconds later it is popping out another ball. I checked the shooter lane switch and it is detecting the first ball, but it for some reason is kicking out a second a few seconds later, any ideas?

the switches work fine on the switch test. here is a video of what it is doing, seems to happen on 2nd and 3rd balls, not first. How many balls are supposed to be in the trough?

i have tried 3 and four get the same result, if there is an extra ball it just loads it in the gumball machine

yes that was it 2nd ball in trough was activating two switches, just bent one back and all is well! Thanks. It is awesome to be able to ask people in the "know" for their help. Thanks again!

anybody have a line on cheaper gumballs, seems kind of high for some marbles....

http://pinballpro.net/shop/2174/

what are you guys doing with this battery. i am thinking of just cutting it and doing a remote battery box, i was reading about nvram but i am not keen on risking the board by doing a poor soldering job, or would you just replace this battery?

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why lithium do they need to be rechargeable?

ok having problems with the extra ball button not working. when i examined it, the push button is not hitting the switch, when i examine it further the white housing which holds the switch is not secure in the black housing of the button. see video, i cant tell if the white housing is just suppose to snap in, see video below, i am guessing something has broken on the white housing, so do i need to replace the whole button or just get the white housing?

yes it took alot of force to snap it in, and then 5 minutes more to figure out how to take it out after realizing i hadnt put it through the cabinet!

thanks

i did mine with the connectors on. my button just fell out apparently for no reason, but after i put it back in the first time it was immensely difficult to push the metal tabs and pull it out, not sure how or why it just fell out?

ok one of my bulbs burned out in my clock, so i decided to go ahead and convert the board to led ( i have some basic soldering skills) I desoldered the lamps and the D1-D4 diodes. I already have the LED's and figured i would need a 180 ohm resistor to replace the diodes to get down to 3.3 volts on the led. Is this correct? 6.8volts-3.3 volts/20 milliamps=180 ohms. Also does the polarity of the leds matter? since i am pulling 6.8volts AC?
based it on this page:

https://www.aaarpinball.com/TwilightZone/TwilightZone.htm

thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-need-help-with-part-placement

i think you are missing the impact bracket part number 01-11207 page 2-48 in the manual

however i did a quick search and couldnt find anyone selling a replacement. you may have to get the measurements and see if you can get a machinist to make you one....

just for the info where did you find it?

have a friend with a 3d printer? you could just print one of the nylon rings

bought a led set for my TZ off of ebay and when i stuck the flasher bulbs in the blinking backbox holders, the flashers dont blink. any suggestions besides putting back the original bulbs?

i have a printer and could print it out and send it to you but i dont have time to design it, you could do it on tinkercad which is pretty easy to use and free.

Where does this plugin I cant find a plug

20180831_173940 (resized).jpg

my buy in button is not lighting up. i changed the diode 1N004 and kept the polarity with the cathode end connected to the red/purple wire. when i stick an led in it the bulb barely lights up (i measure about 2 volts across the outlet) if i measure the voltage behind the diode it is measuring about 7 volts. any ideas? I resoldered the wires in case it was a bad solder joint but to no avail...

tried an original 555 bulb and does not work. used the light in the start button and it doesnt work in the buy in button slot. when i measure the voltage in the socket i am only getting abou 1.5 volts max. If i measure the voltage in front of the diode i get 7 volts. I used a 1n4004 diode is that the correct diode. not sure what else to check here? any help greatly appreciated!

ok i have checked the continuity to every connector with my multimeter in column 8 (except left spiral, it is not listed on the diagram and i cant figure out what lamp it is referring to) everything reads perfect continuity. i have also checked continuity to every lamp in that row and get perfect continuity. I am getting some current through the lamp (see attached video) but not enough to light the bulb. i switched the bulb with the start button light and it works fine on the start button. i bypassed the outlet and connected the bulb directly to the two wires and still get low current flow. i measure the voltage at around 1.5 volts in the outlet which is the same as the start button.
Uggh this is driving me crazy, every other light in the colum and the row works fine (except left spiral because i dont know where that it) any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pJdaw9DeXVMBbuYA7

Ok i am a complete idiot. I was assuming the buy in button lit up during attract mode because i could see the led flickering during attract mode, instead of actually testing it by going into the light single lamp test mode. It works fine, my brain however does not. sorry for wasting your time.

i started having issues with my fish tales sound going in and out. i pulled the sound board out and saw a blown capacitor. when i checked the other major capacitors on the board they all were bad, these boards are over 20 years old and the capacitors go bad. i replaced all my capacitors and now fish tales sound is rockin!! so your options if you are good with electronics is replace the capacitors yourself, send the board off for repair, or buy a new board (not cheap about 350)

ok keep getting missing ball in gumball machine error. i empty the gumball machine and reload it and credit dot goes away. start playing the game and it is mis-detecting the powerballs and the credit dot pops back up. So i am guessing the powerball detector switch is bad? which switch is that?

the other issue that is possible is if you still have the original sound board the capacitors have gone bad. these capacitors are responsible for "filtering" the sound signal. I checked the capacitors on my fish tales, and every single one of them was bad. when i replaced them, crystal clear.