What a restoration! Happy to say I am also officially in the club with a nice example. So happy to finally have TZ. It's my favorite game. Are there key posts for newbies in this thread? Hard to catch up on 5000 posts. I don't need help with mods, game already has a lot of those. An opto is out in my clock. I understand there are better clock boards out there but not really not really sure what I need. I just want everything to work right. Other problem I have is line out in the dmd. Good excused for a colordmd I suppose.

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Game reports clock is broken. Fast clock test shows bottom opto stuck closed.

Not sure I like that one. Not a big fan of the whole toy mods stuck all over. TZ is the one game where it does work given the theme and packed playfield. Last owner said they were all high end mods with many no longer available. Seems like most of them can be found on websites and ebay. Thinking of selling some of them but not sure they are worth all that much. Are there any hard to find mods in demand?

I've been researching clock boards and that seems to be the way to go. There are cheaper alternatives but looks like the Ingo board will hold up better. Should I lube the gears when I take the clock apart? I read somewhere recommendations of which product to use. Mine is pretty loud on bootup but I don't mind that. Just don't know if that is an issue.

Anyone selling a plastic replacement for the carboard mini playfield bottom cover? Mine is a little beat up and not looking so good.

I prefer something not hand cut. There are so many mods and parts available for TZ so surprised there isn't more options. I guess it's not a big deal. Just thought it would be nice to replace it when I remove the mini playfield to shop.

I'm selling some of the mods removed off my game. All have leds and work. Prices include domestic shipping. PM me if interested.

Talky Tina - looks hand painted and very well done - $200
Dead End Lamp - looks like real metal and detailed - $100
Camera - hand painted but kinda rough looking to be honest - $30

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Prices are negotiable of course. I don't know the history of these mods or how easy they are to find. Just got the game and it had too many mods for my tastes. The Tina mod looks a lot better than some I have seen online. It's really well done. I look around and don't see anywhere where you can buy one. Your link is to an ended listing. The lamp also looks pretty good and more detailed than ones I found online. Previous owner talked up all the mods on the game saying most were high end mods no longer available. I think that was a bit of a stretch but some truth to it.

Dang. Not trying to rip anyone off or anger the pinside price police. There's not much info on these mods so that's why I put up several pics to show everything about them. Not trying to fool nobody. I don't see the Tina mod for sale anywhere. All out of stock. The point is that I have them and looking to see if anyone is interested in buying them.

What's funny is that the game has all these mods but not the two that I the most - Robby the robot and the car. Sucker for car and robot stuff. I guess I am keeping the rest of the mods. I wouldn't buy them new but since they are already on the game why not.

Leds make all the difference to me. Games are so much more enjoyable better lit with richer colors in inserts. I am in the middle of adding leds to my game. I'm also lighting star posts and adding spotlighs. Going to be awesome. I keep hearing how TZ really needs the ocd board. I have all the inserts currently led and they look fine to me. I have the home rom so maybe that helps. Is there a big benefit to getting the ocd board? I don't mind my other games with dimming turned off. TZ seems no different. If you get the ocd board do you need the one for gi, too?

Not sure of others but the piano mod that came on my TZ is not fastened down. It just slides out. Same with the lights that insert into the back.

Clock question. I got my Ingo clock board today and just put it in. I followed the instructions step by step. The thing is that I believe the previous owner had the clock rotated 90 degrees. I had it at 12 o'clock when I took it apart. However, when assembling and making sure motor at bottom the hands were either at 9 or 3. I think I guessed correctly putting it back together. When you power on the game or exit menu, it goes to 6 o'clock. After a few minutes it moves around and eventually goes to the correct time. Does this sound correct? Seems like it is since it is showing the correct time.

I also got two extra sets of leds with the board - one rainbow and one cool white. I ordered it with cool white but looks like warm white was installed. Hard to tell since the clock face has warm colors. Do you get an extra set of leds or are you expected to install the ones you requested? I could just swap leds but hate to go through all that trouble for nothing.

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I did get it back together as it is supposed to. Clock test works. It moves the clock the right direction and optos work. I guess I was more confused than anything how things got turned around.

I'm assuming the game using the optos to determine where the hands and how to get to the right time. If so then it might not matter how things are orientated as long as the board is installed right way up.

Think I got my clock sorted with the new board. Anyone interested in my old original board? It looks pretty good as in not burnt up or hacked. Bottom opto is flaky and only worked occasionally in test mode. Not sure if anything else is wrong with it but other optos worked in testing. I have no use for it now but figured someone who likes keeping things original might want it.

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Finished up shopping my TZ tonight. Still have a few things planned but done with most of it. Borrowed lots of ideas from others. I lit all star posts and upper pf lights and have them on their own dimmers. Upper pf was a challenge with all the lights. Tried several different methods to light signs. I ended up getting 2" corner braces from hardware store and bending them to fit with a light strip. Works perfect. I also have three spotlights. Spotlight by slot machine uses two head flex which does a decent job lighting up the whole back area. Used Comet matrix stuff and didn't have to solder one thing. Everything uses connectors and can easily be tweaked or removed. All new Titan rubbers both clear and blue.

Big thanks to rviguet for the tip on using small button head fasteners instead of rivets. That made things so much easier.

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Thanks! I used all Comet stuff, of course! Lighting those signs was a pain. They do light pretty good from the post lights if full bright but I have them dimmed down quite a bit. I didn't want to add any holes to the mini playfield and there is very little room below signs to clear the one jet bumper. I first tried using sockets like someone posted earlier in thread but couldn't get that to work. I used a frosted light strips cut down to 5 leds dimmed down and really happy how evenly it lights up the signs.

For the mini playfield lamp, I tried several different kinds of bulbs. Brightness and glare was a big issue. I settled on 1smd frosted ice blue bulbs. There is still a little glare but I can live with it. That lamp could really use a diffuser to cover the bottom.

The back does need the light strip like you did so that's on my to do list. Looks so dark now that the rest of the game is lit up. Almost seems like a gi string is out.

Something blocking your view is an annoyance of mine as well. The spotlights over the slings don't block my view. All new games have them and I am pretty used to them. The one I put in the back next to the slot machine does somewhat. I am planning on tucking it down, out of sight. It would be cool if there was a slimmer socket and bulb combo for spotlights. They stick out so far and that seems so unnecessary with leds that are so tiny. That would sure make it easy to tuck in spotlights in tight places and make them more hidden.

Is it a common issue for the ball to fall of the right ramp when the upper playfield is lit? I'm not talking about the diverter catching the ball. Mine has a magnet and that works perfectly. This is when the ball should go straight across to the upper playfield. Mine is falling off halfway just about all the time unless ball is traveling very slow. The diverter strength seems to be the cause. When it dumps down to let the ball go past, it seems to be shaking the ball off the ramp. You can see it shake the ramp and upper playfield when it slams down.

I believe everything is secured down well. With the mini playfield in place all the way back, the ramp is pretty much locked in with that one screw. I will check into it more tonight. I just want to play at this point but it bugs me when things don't work right. I'm also getting the brick outs of the lock shot but I know there is a lot of info on addressing that. I remember one being pretty simple without taking everything apart. Mine isn't that bad so will deal with it later.

Right, there is a screw in the middle. It was a bit loose but tightening it didn't seem to help. The diverter seems smooth enough and has the right coil looking at the manual. Only questionable looking thing is there are two washers on the top of the coil shaft instead of one listed in manual. That doesn't affect the movement, though. Looks like I just need to play with it some more to get it right. I just never seen that before on TZ's I have played. The problem is usually the diverter not catching the ball and not the ball getting knocked off the ramp when the diverter moves.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/36-50020-1

Looks like Marco has the mini pf.

That plastic pivot since only held done by that one bolt. I have an aftermarket lamp but positioned it so the lamp part is flat across the playfield. That meant turning it all one way at the base.

I'm new to the TZ world but isn't the pitch of the mini pf adjustable? On the right side, the playfield is suspended by a spring and looks like tightening/loosing the nut will raise/lower that side of the mini pf. I was just messing with that last night since I forgot to change out the post rubber under it.

I didn't know sample games had so many differences. Can you use washers as shims instead?

That mini pf is a pain to get in and out. I really hate how short they made the wires. I also did the trick of plugging in all the connectors with the playfield raised and testing the leds first. Good thing because several needed adjusting. I didn't hot glue but that's a good idea. Those leds have a tendency to wiggle out.

Does everything work in the game including powerball detection? I've had games throw errors for what seems like no reason. Those errors usually clear after a few games. How often do you remove all the balls? Most of the time I just shove a rag into the ball eject when lifting the playfield.

I think Pinrob's art blades match up pretty good. Be cool to see more pics with betting lighting.

I would just look for the TZ in the best condition with a fair price. Mods do add up in costs so best to do a little research and see what the mods you want will end up costing. I don't think there is one place to get them all since there are so many mods. Lermods, mezelmods, pinbits, and pinballdecals are good places to start. Some things can only be found on ebay.

Best to use the manual as a guide and take inventory of the rings on the playfield. I used Titan dark blue for post rubbers and translucent rings. The blue matches up with the blue in the playfield. The translucent look pretty good with all my lit star posts. I put up a pic not long ago after I shopped out my game.

Speaking of rings, does anyone have an issue with the ball hitting the post in the shooter lane just above the upper flipper? I had to take the rubber off the post because the ball would hit during auto launch. Works better now but you can still hear the ball hitting the metal post on auto launch.

Congrats. TZ is an awesome game. Just got mine not long ago. I also had issues with the clock optos. Instead of wasting time on the old boards, I bought the new Ingo clock board that is engineered better so should never have a problem again. Easy swap and new board has swappable leds.

Coils firing like that are usually the result of a faulty switch - probably an opto. Open the game menu and go into the switch test. Hand press every switch and break the beam on every opto in the game. You should see that switch and only that switch trip on the display. If a switch triggers multiple switches then there is a short issue. Also bang around the playfield and see if any opto's trigger off of vibrations. For a complete list of switches, look for the switch matrix in the manual.

Best thing is to get a reinforced target like the following. They seem to be out of stock often, though.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R

I had the same problem with a few targets on my Shadow and those fixed the problem. For now, you can shove some more padding behind the targets.

Left flipper always felt weak or sluggish on mine. Inconsistent, too. Cleaning the opto helped but replacing the opto board finally seemed to fix it.

I just did it and it's easy. There are clear instructions. Make sure hands are are at midnight at the start and keep everything straight when you take it apart. I somehow got things turned around in process but think it was not put together right before I got the pin.

I used natural white leds with the stock clock face. I wouldn't use blue leds since they are pretty dark in color. Leds are easy to swap on the board so you can always try.

You mean 9.4H rom? I just put a colordmd in my game. Only funny thing I saw was some distoration during mb start animation when a friend was playing. It had a bunch of random lines all over the display. Only saw that once. On my other colordmd game MET, I have seen it loose color for a bit and then go back to color for a second or two during animations. Thatis pretty rare though. How often does that happen on yours?

Are the two proximity sensors linked together? Both of mine stopped working at the same time. I checked fuses, examined the wiring, fiddled with the connectors, and now they seem to be working again. Researching proximity errors it seems like the connectors are a big problem. Would one connector affect both sensors?

Good to know. Don't know too much when it comes to these things. Next time it happens I will know what to focus on. Thought maybe I did something when I repaired a broken wire to a target last night.

Any tips for exactly how to lube the clock gears? Mine is pretty noisy. When I swapped out the board a little while ago, I tried to apply a little Super Lube to the different gears but it made no difference.

They made something like 15000 Twilight Zones. Monster Bash and Medieval Madness came out when pinball on downturn so not nearly as many made. Simply supply and demand. I would rank TZ as one of the best. Loaded with features, great theme, and great code. Those other games are overpriced for what they are imo.

I usually like more flow games but TZ makes it work. It feels good to stick the shots and hear the ball smack metal. The stop time gives you a chance to look up at the dmd, appreciate the animations/info, and quickly look for what to shoot for next. Game will definitely punish you if you are just knocking the ball around.

TZ has always been my favorite game but I was also afraid of the maintenance. Once I got more comfortable working on pins, that fear went away. I've only had my TZ for 3 months and most of the problems have been very simple. Most of the time something just needs adjusting. I'm still trying to get things to play better but I am pretty picky about how a game plays.

Tough to stay away from the mods. TZ is just a magnet for them and so many cool ones out there. Not sure they are all worth the trouble though. Mine came with a bunch of mods which some are pretty nice. Problem is that some don't stay in place very well and often need adjustment. I added two mods - the robot and tbird. There were issues with those and had to get replacements and refunds. Eventually got it all worked but what a pain.

I don't recall getting much communication from him but got my board in a fair bit of time earlier this year. He did reach out to me through PM's when I posted a few questions here on pinside. Very helpful.

I wouldn't be happy with that either, durzel. I've seen the same sort of thing on reproduction translites and other stuff. Some people seem to not care but it's pretty obvious to me. I would contact Marco and just see what they say. You never know what to expect from places like ebay but I would expect better from Marco.

What is the recommended slope for TZ? I know the standard is 6.5 degrees or the bubble touching the 2nd bottom line. I set mine up that way but had to extend the rear casters all the way out and the front all the way down. Hard to imagine it was designed to be setup like that. None of my other pins are like that and can be setup to pretty steep angles.

I definitely have all 4 legs in lower two holes. That's where the legs have always been mounted looking at the wear. I cannot even put them in the top holes if I wanted to unless I flip the backing plate.

Talking about the age of these games makes me feel old. I was in college when TZ was new and doesn't seem that long ago. I get the frustrations with TZ. I've only owned my game for around 4 months and had the glass off more than on. I don't even put the keys away like I do the others. I always leave it on my desk right next to the game. I hate seeing credit dots and TZ loves to throw one every few games or so even though game seems to be playing well. Still love TZ, though. Best game ever!

I have lithium batteries in a remote battery holder. Battery holder was like $20 and no modifications necessary. Battery holder sits where the coin box sits so easy access and far from boards. I don't really care about cost of batteries. Any battery should last a long while so it's not like you change them out often. Better to just get what works best. Nvram would be ideal but I do like the clock feature showing the correct time.

@mercat - Your game looks awesome. Like your contrasting flipper bats and blue star posts. Looks slick.

One question - what LED are you using for the slot machine? Is that an LED without a lens with a yellow condom over it? I am using a regular LED bulb with a frosted lens but it's a little too tall.

How about this? I bought a ramp for my Congo from them and happy with it.
http://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Twilight-Zone-Clear-Main-Ramp

I'm curious how that would look. Not sure I like the tinted for same reasons but not cheap.

I had that problem after getting the robot mod. It was always the powerball and would get stuck by the right foot. Took a metal bracket I had, fastened a star post to one end, and glued other end under robot metal base. Doesn't look to out of place.

Clock is pretty easy to take apart. If the board has leds probably not original. Might help to at least clean the optos. While you are in there you can see what board you have and visually inspect it. I also recommend Ingo's board unless you are keeping everything original.

Best thing to do is buy some sample warm and sunlight bulbs with different lenses and see what looks good. I would stick with 1smd bulbs unless you want something brighter the 2smd. I used sunlight bulbs in my Congo and like the results. It's a warmer white without being too yellow. For inserts, color match for richer color except yellow and orange. Those look better with warm white bulbs. I use clear lens for all except where bulb visisble then frosted. Not exactly stock looking but much easier on the eyes. I also like using the flex heads to light inserts where the bulb is not centered well. For large inserts, I might use a 2smd bulb or even a 2smd flex. That said, I like my games on the bright side like newer games. Keep the stock flashers. LED ones are very bright and stock works fine.

Artwork gives it a 3D effect but it's all flat and under clear.

Definitely buy colordmd instead of another dmd. Go with LCD. LED too bright imo and only good for games where the LCD does not fit. I think the LCD just looks better plus you get display options. Like a lot of people, I like dotsXL. It has a natural dot look but updated with color.

http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html

Anyone know where I can get replacement led for the Ingo clock board? I got one going bad. I contacted Ingo with same question. He said he was going to mail me a replacement but that was a long time ago.

Thanks, Ingo. I shot you a pm but no big deal. I don't want to be a bother over an led. I can wait and no stranger to long shipping delays. Funny thing is I thought I received it yesterday when I saw a small overseas package in my mailbox. Turned out to be some cheap, little thing I ordered for my daughter off Amazon 6 weeks ago.

Love the clock board! It's been working perfect. Wish I could say the same for the trough proximity sensor. Dang thing is always finicky.

Think I do need to directly solder the two boards. I keep thinking I have it good when it works right for a while but doesn't take too long to get that stupid credit dot. It just seems so wrong cutting off connectors and directly soldering wires like that.

I didn't know about the slow blink bulbs. Mine came with regular leds and I never noticed other games flashing. Pinball life says there are supposed to be 8 slow blink bulbs in the backbox. Where do they go?

I didn't know that!

I do know that you can shoot the camera shot when a ball is on the mini pf to collect the jackpot. There is no exit switch on the mini pf so the game thinks you beat it. Thus you could shoot the powerball in the camera and the game might think you beat the mini pf with it. I don't see how it would be designed that way since it would impossible to legitimately do that.

Is there any scoring strategies for LITZ? I get there now and then but never can come close to the default high score of 300m.

Are you trying to say that if you do well in those modes then point values will be higher in LITZ if on the same ball? I don't remember seeing any additional scores being added in LITZ payoff. It shows you all the shots and things you hit in the mode where each is worth what seems like a default amount of points. For example, I think you get 10m for every left ramp shot. I probably need to let some of the balls drain and focus on making the camera shot, piano, or upper pf.

Cool thing is I replaced my right ramp last week and that made making that shot so much easier. Embarrassed to say that I never noticed my right ramp had a broken weld on the bottom left for like 9 months. It just looked natural being wide open at the bottom. Never understood why it was so clunky getting a ball up that ramp on my game and so smooth on other TZ's.

Man, so much more to TZ than I previously thought. Thanks for explaining that, Coyote. Lots to think about. One strategy is to ignore all the modes and just try to complete all the door panels. That gets you to LITZ fairly easily but you miss out on a lot of points. Playing out everything can get you a lot of points and extra balls but often high risk in draining. Such a good game!

I need to learn the rules better. I don't really know of any strategy with playing the modes other than trying to bring something into multiball. What are some examples of what not to do? I usually just try to plow through door panel modes and shoot for things like gumball, camera, or upper pf when lit.

I've always love TZ and feels awesome to own one. My university center had a large arcade in the basement back in the early 90's. Sometimes they had some of the games on free play and that's when I played pinball the most. TZ always stuck out as my favorite even though I had no idea of rules. There is always something to shoot for in TZ and plenty of shots with 4 flippers. Modes are fairly simple and short plus you can stack any number of them. You don't get stuck playing out long modes and having to complete them to progress like a lot of modern games. There are just so many crazy combination of modes to get going at once. The stop and go style play is usually not my favorite but just seems to work well with TZ. You get a chance to look up at the display and think about what you need to do next.

I have similar problems. Diverter slams hard and sometimes knocks ball of wireform. Even when the ball stays on the wireform you can see it hop a little. Part of the problem was the screw kept coming loose that holds it down wireform between ramps. Threadlock helped keep it in place and helped the issue. I just wonder if the magnet on the diverter adds a lot of mass and might be a cause. At least it always catches the ball. I did put a star post next to the robot because had same problem of balls getting caught there.

Hmm... Didn't know that Rottendog mpu's had a history with draining batteries. That would explain why my Congo went through fresh lithium batteries in less than a year lately. Expected them to last a long time but only went around 9 months.

If you are having worst problems with batteries, I would look into nvram. Not sure if that is a pain to put in a Rottendog board but it sure is nice not to have to deal with batteries. You loose some features like the clock telling the correct time but I wouldn't call that a big deal if you have to change batteries often.

Your clock is still going to work with nvram. It just won't show the correct time in attract mode since the time will reset every time you power cycle the game.

My right ramp, crossover wireform, and diverter are energized when the power is on. I was doing a little maintenance and kept getting shocked when touching these metal parts. It's not a lot of current but still concerning. Only issue I have with the game right now is the sound. Sound volume keeps dropping off. Slapping the cab brings it back. I tried reseated the audio board connectors and press the chips in. That helped some. Not sure if that is related. Maybe I have a major ground issue? Never had a problem like this. Any ideas of what to check?

Thanks for the help lyonsden and coyote. I spent more time with it this afternoon. Noticed it only shocked me if I touched the side rail and metal ramp parts. It must of been a coil issue because it stopped doing it when the coin door was open. I checked all the coils under the playfield. Some coils were a bit twisted but didn't look like any terminals was touching metal. I must of did something pushing wires around because problem went away.

One connector on the sub was a little loose. Tried making that a little tighter and sound problems seem to have gone away as well. Two for two today!

Only thing I know is extra padding to keep the target from bending back as much. I have a reinforced target as well and get some air balls. Not as bad as my Shadow where I was getting air balls over the flippers.

I replaced the switches with reinforced ones. That really helped. Still get some hops but nothing crazy. Curious, though, what do you mean by pointing them down? Like bending the mounting bracket?

I never read instruction cards but gotta have them. That's the rules lol. Same reason you have to have coin mechs. Don't need them at home but you gotta have them.

It's pretty straightforward. Hardest thing for me is dealing with the connectors. Mine have pretty much no slack which makes it difficult getting everything back together.

Dang, that sucks. Someone marked all the connectors to the boards on one of my pins. I thought that was a great idea. I do that now if there is any doubt where something goes. Pictures are good as well but things can happen to pics.

There should be 4 rubbers there - 2 on each post of 7/16" od. Same as on the post to the left of it. There should also be a plastic lane guide.

Is this what you mean by post leds on upper playfield? I lit all my star posts using Comet matrix stuff. It all connects using connectors so no soldering. I also used a dimmer since lights were very bright. It wasn't that hard to do but had it's challenges. I also lit the two signs using light strips and custom brackets.

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I used a bulb splitter in the payfield gi that was out of view in the rear. I then ran an extension cable from that down under playfield and back up to the mini playfield that could easily be disconnected. Splitters and short extensions used under mini pf. I used other bulb splitters for other added lights around pf so not to overload one circuit. I tried to plan things out on paper but recommend just buying a bunch of extensions in different lengths and splitters.

Comet sells lighter star posts as a kit but I never tried them. I just bought their post lights and sourced star posts from somewhere else. The problem I had was the post light led never fit under the star posts. They were always too wide. I had to use an exacto knife and remove material from the inside of each star post to get a clean fit.

https://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-1-SMD-5050-FLEX-6-3V-QUICK-CONNECT-p/mtx1smdflex.htm
https://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-Wires-p/mtxconnect.htm
https://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-2-and-3-Splitters-p/mtxsplit.htm
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/mtxbriteadj.htm
https://www.cometpinball.com/4-SMD-6-3V-LIGHTED-POST-LIGHT-p/mtxpost.htm

Never hurts to have spare parts but I wouldn't replace it if functioning properly and looks good.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1765-22

Do you have some kind of blade like mirror blades? Looks like it if the white is protective film. Even with that, you should have plenty of clearance and the sign should not hang over edge of playfield. For one thing, try adjusting the bracket the sign is held on by.

This. Check all switches and optos. In the switch test, activate every switch one at a time and make sure no other switches trigger at the same time. I just had a problem like this on a FT I am working on. Pop bumper hit was also triggering a sling. Turned out to be a loose wire on the launch button.

I would also bang around the optos and make sure optos do not trigger on vibrations. I have seen optos work perfectly in testing but trigger randomly during gameplay due to vibrations of coils firing or ball hitting things.

Sounds great if you have the skills and know what you are doing. It's nice to have the option of getting a brand new upgraded board with leds for reasonable cost for those that lack in skills.

I find that odd but yes that is normal. I don't recall my game ever kicking out balls out of the lock between games.

When the powerball is kicked out of the trough, do you get the Powerball animation on the dmd? Same should happen when the powerball is ejected from the gumball and before kicked out of the slot machine. Those would tell if you the proximity switches are working correctly. If you are going into powerball multiball, the game must think the powerball is in play (powerball inserts should be lit) and right orbit opto is triggered. That opto may be bad which would mean the diverter never activates. When something doesn't get activated over certain number of games, you get a credit dot for it. I'm hardly the expert at this stuff but I would check all switches and optos. Bang around the pf and see if optos trigger. Had that happen on one game. Opto worked fine in testing but triggered on vibrations.

I said check the opto. The diverter coil will fire based off of the opto. Everything in the game is controlled by switches/optos. If the powerball does not go back into the gumball machine when in play and the multiball starts randomly, it sounds like switch issues.

Anyone buy one yet? I am curious how they look and worth the price.

Quick search:
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30

If everything works then I wouldn't worry about it.

I've cleaned translites before with just wiping down with mild cleaner and rag. However, I did try to clean the one on my FT and the white paint came off. It was a spot that was already stained with something. Thing was filthy and nasty so had to be cleaned or replaced.

You could just replace the flipper opto boards and rebuild all the flippers. That's what I did when I first got my pin. Flippers didn't feel strong and no obvious problems. Adds up in cost but doesn't hurt to make sure everything fresh and correct. Also check to make sure correct coils installed. The last game I got, FT, flipped okay but had wrong coils and incorrect parts.

Uh, ok. Woe is me for throwing away a few small old grungy boards and worn out flipper parts. How will I ever sleep at night? Please. Time is a factor in everything and not like I threw away the entire pin because one switch is out. I got full time job, 3 kids, aging parents, and a house to run. If I can replace a part cheaply and get things working right quickly, I am going to do that. It's a blessing you can buy so many replacement pin parts.

Maybe because high voltage to coils cutoff when coin door open? Try pushing in the door switches when trying to empty the balls.

TZ really can't compare to new games when it comes to code depth, display quality, light shows, etc. JJP games even take all that to a higher level. That said, modern games tend to get pretty complicated and quantity is not always equal to quality. TZ is from the golden era of the early 90's and a huge classic. Modes are pretty basic but there is a lot more to gameplay than just playing out modes. It's my favorite game but not everyone loves it. I recommend playing any game first before deciding to buy one.

Anyone get the clock broken error with Ingo's board? I get it now and then but error goes away. Clock seems to work fine so not sure if that is just a TZ thing.

Don't think so. I did just take it apart to replace another flaky opto on the clock board. Second time that has happened.

Appreciate that. I don't recall the clock ever not working but have seen the clock broken error message a handful of times. The last led to have a problem is the top right one. I can't remember which one it was before. They start to flicker and then go out but come back on once in a while. I have extra spares from what you sent me last time so I am all good for now. If another goes out, I will send you a PM.

OCD LED is only for the insert lamps only. Should have nothing to do with GI lamps. Have you tried a different bulb? I would try another led or even an incandescent bulb. Maybe the one led bulb is bad. I would also check to see if the lamp socket is corroded or funky.

Check the High Score Reset Every setting in HSTD Adjustments.

I might still have my notes at home somewhere. I make my own list for a game breaking it down with inserts, gi, backbox, and flashers. I write down each insert, bulb base type, color, and lens type. Flex head leds work really well in some spots and sometimes a brighter bulb is better on a large insert. GI is easy since they are all the same. Just count the bulbs and get a few extra in case you missed a few in counting. Backbox also easy to count. Helps to buy a few extra of common bulbs just in case. I then make a order list counting up all the bulbs and bulb types. It's time consuming but you get the best results with ordering just what you need.

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_2&products_id=16

Says sold out, though. Wouldn't hurt to contact pinbits to see if they can get some more soon.

If you bring a game to a show, you can get a colordmd with a discount plus free shipping. Bringing a game to a show also gets you in free so added bonus. Pretty much saves you over $100 so well worth it if you are able.

One other advantage of getting colordmd that people don't talk about much is the colordmd display does not need high voltage. Common for the high voltage av to be faulty and some of the dmd's hum/buzz. Colordmd uses low voltage and makes no noise.

1) Never heard pinsound difference. My opinion is stock sound fine for what it is. Gets expensive buying all new sound stuff.
2) I set my volume once at home and that's it.
3) Colordmd nice but not absolutely needed. I got one since dmd had issues. DotXL for best setting and most agree.
4) I bought both LED and GI OCD boards for TZ but not installed yet. I have the boards on WH2O and what a difference. I debated getting the boards for TZ since it looks acceptable. I put a lot of effort in my lighting so I decided better go all out and get it perfect.
5) There are several mods worthwhile on TZ. I recommend the magnet on the ball catcher, the extra plastic diverter thing in the gumball machine to keep balls from jamming, and gumball door flashers.
6) Anti glare glass is expensive. I've seen it on games and while it's nice, not worth big bucks to me.