(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago

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Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (3 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (1 year ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (4 months ago)

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#10353 4 months ago

TZ Playfield Parts Availability?

I'm looking at a local TZ for sale and when I look over the playfield I see various parts that are oxidized or corroded - perhaps from exposure to moist air over time. Things like the blue, spring-steel ramp flaps, or the stainless ramps themselves, or various posts - they just look a bit "tired" or blotchy or in some cases show actual corrosion, and I wonder if I can tumble them back to life or if I will have to replace them if I end up buying the game. Are these parts available as new reproductions at reasonable prices? If so, from what source? I've checked Marco, Planetary, and PBL. All have a smattering of parts - plastics, for instance - but no stainless ramps.

Thanks in advance.

#10356 4 months ago

Thanks, Davi and Hawknole, for your input.
I'm a little worried about sorting such a complicated machine, but I'm going to give it a shot.
My games to this point have been modern Sterns, although I have done some ambitious modding on them and learned a fair amount about troubleshooting minor issues - thanks mostly to my friend LTG.
Are there reproduction Magna-Flip PF's available? The stock PF has been a bit abused on the right corner by blasts from the upper-right flipper toward the Camera. Is there some kind of Cliffy for that area? The board beneath the Magna-Flip PF has been abused, too. I'm going to need to learn how to cut/rivet replacement ramp flaps I guess. Not sure what gauge spring steel I will need. Do I cut them with tin snips? I have no sheering table, not surprisingly.
The first and most important thing I'm doing is scanning the Service Manual:
God bless IPDB!

#10357 4 months ago


Please advise me on replacement legs. The stock legs are rusty. I can't polish them back to life.
The Service Manual in section 2-3 shows a cabinet parts diagram and C-10843 for the "metal leg assembly."
Looking on Pinball Life for this part number shows leg sets for System-Eleven games, not WPC89. Are these legs sufficiently tall? Standard length should be 28-1/2", correct? No mention in this listing of length.


#10358 4 months ago

Has anyone installed this particular repro' mini playfield?


What are your thoughts? Junk? Worthwhile? This is the only one I could find. Are there originals kicking around?

#10360 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

The ribs are wrong on those. Most sites are out of the correct legs for some reason. PBR still has them.

Thank you, Mad Dog. Very helpful!

#10361 4 months ago

Flaky Upper-left Flipper: Please Help Me Troubleshoot

The upper-left flipper works fine in test but usually won't fire during gameplay. If it *does* fire, it does a little flutter. Like, it flips, then semi-flips immediately after, only it happens quickly enough to look like a spasm.

Former owner reseated the connectors in the Flip-tronics board in the head and swapped out the flipper opto for a leaf-switch version. Mind you, the "new" flipper switch is not simply a leaf switch as it accepts the connector that a flipper opto board would, etc. I would post a photo here but the machine isn't handy. It's kind of a hybrid thing. Perhaps it doesn't belong, but the flipper didn't work with the stock opto either. Will it be necessary to replace the Flip-tronics board in the head? If so, are they available and at what cost?

How else should I chase the problem? I have a multi-meter if that's called for.

Thanks in advance.

#10362 4 months ago

Lever-Guide Assembly Availability?

The Service Manual shows part #A-9174-4 for the lockdown receiver bar assembly. Marco is out of stock of A-9174-1. Is the "4" for widebody and the "1" for standard-body, or do wide- and standard body games use the same receiver?


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#10364 4 months ago

Thanks, Manny.
Pressing the left flipper button in test mode fires only the bottom left flipper.
No stage, no nothing from the upper.

#10367 4 months ago

Thanks, Manny, for the link. I will do some reading there.
Thanks, Scotty, for your suggestion regarding the coil itself. I don't have a replacement coil, but I can order one from PinballResource.
Today I will swap out the Fliptronics board for one that comes from another machine whose flippers are working properly. That will help me rule out my board if nothing else.

#10372 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Hey Jason - can you post a pic of your flipper switch as you mentioned that the original opto board had been swapped out for a hybrid leaf switch that had the original cable connector plugging into it. I have leaf replacements on a few of my machines, but curious what this switch looks like

I will have to photograph that oddball switch later. I've returned from the site where the game is, so I can't lay a hand on that switch for the time being. Sorry.

#10373 4 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

I had similar and ended up replacing the flipper opto board and that fixed it. You can switch left and right boards and see if problem follows to rule out the board if that's not it.

Thanks, Awesome1, for your suggestion.
Before I tried this, I borrowed a Fliptronics board from another TZ whose flippers work. No luck. Then I swapped out the funky switch for a proper flipper opto. Still no luck. Then I swapped the two optos, side to side, and, inexplicably, this solved the problem. Not surprisingly, I had lots of help from LTG. He even gave me some new 555's and a few 906's to start me on my cleaning/bulbing of the machine.
Thanks to all of you who listened and made suggestions. I appreciate it. On to the next issue!

#10374 4 months ago

V-Pad Kicker Accuracy Issue: Suggestions Sought

When I soft plunge for the SS on this game and the ball trickles into the kicker, it will rarely get launched properly up into the Camera shot. It bricks off whatever's close instead. Can this kicker be tuned up so that it launches the ball accurately? In the diagram below, you can see there are few parts to the mech. Where is its adjustability? I see none. Does it make sense to replace parts 1, 2, and 3? Will that tighten up the action of the armature?

Screenshot (46) (resized).jpg
#10395 4 months ago

Source for replacement right-side flipper-return ballguide? Need only the stainless, not the whole assembly (A-16203-1).

Checked Marco's, PBR, PBL, and Planetary.
Any suggestions?


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#10414 4 months ago

How to Free Habit-trail From Right Ramp?

This is a legit disentanglement puzzle.
Can't free it!
Do I squeeze the habit-trail ends to slip the anchor out?
No flexibility there!

A37D22BD-A1FD-46A0-9C73-EC3C47CA011F (resized).jpeg
#10416 4 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Is it tack welded on?

I got it.
Manual says "unhook" and separate.
Now time to polish!

1 week later
#10465 4 months ago
Quoted from hawknole:

Took some closer up pics today…
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Holy shirt!
Amazing workmanship!
I thought I was working hard on my TZ, but yours is in another league!
Love it!

#10466 4 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Swap or replace the ooto flipper board on the cabinet. This is a common issue with dirty or failing optos.
Try switching the two boards, and see if the problem also shifts sides.

The switch-a-roo trick sorted my game. Try it!

#10467 4 months ago

My twin gate assembly that straddles the shooter lanes has shabby flaps. They're rusted/ugly.
Marco has the left flap in black and the right flap in stainless. Not so helpful.
Does anyone out there know of a source for matching flaps? Does Mantis make them?

Also, how does this assembly come apart to access the flaps? I assume the hinge rod slides out, but how? It's confounding!

TZ.gate (resized).jpg
#10474 4 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

I couldn't work it out! Seems like a complete unit to me. My machine had a Friday afternoon gate, in that it has 2 of the same type of flaps, not one of each type. I just bought another complete unit in the end.

Your assessment is sound: the assembly doesn't really come apart unless you sheer off the flared end of the hinge rod. You can then put the assembly back together with the original, shorted rod (not ideal) or fabricate a new rod (very challenging). So, not sure where that leaves me. Interesting that your assembly has two left gates. I think that's cool and should be retained.

#10478 4 months ago

How to Remove Flasher Stack in Back Left?

Manual says it can be "rotated" and freed without lifting the PF out of the cabinet. (Note #6)
Not even close.
Can't make room by freeing the gumball machine first as its anchor screws can't be accessed beneath the flasher stack. Maddening!
Screenshot (47) (resized).pngTZ.back.left (resized).jpg

#10483 4 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Anyone have trouble with LEDs being too tall for the pop bumpers.
Did a full rebuild with everything new.
The 555s fit fine. The LEDs fit in one but not the other two.
All light sockets are the same.
I suspect 2 of the bodies are shorter than the third. One is bright white and the other 2 are not as bright.
Are there 2 heights for pop bodies?

As far as I know, Williams bodies are 1/8" shorter than Stern bodies. No idea on Gottlieb bodies. It's not easy to nest a wedge socket in a Williams body if your cap isn't large/dome'ish. But here's a little tip: a 44 socket actually sits a little lower, so it will afford you a wee-bit more clearance. Or you can just use a Stern body.

#10484 4 months ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

Has anyone else removed the metal lamp over the upper playfield. I just put in illuminated star posts on my upper playfield and yanked that ugly thing out.

Interesting. You removed the beloved lamp above your upper PF? Mod addicts are fond of spending $170 for the lamp with the "Twilight Zone" cut-out. Not you! I would like to remove mine and polish it until it gleams. Then it will be welcome there.

Star-post lights in your upper sounds fly. I was thinking I would try that, too. Gotta order some from Comet, although they're expensive for what you get. I'm excited to personalize the lighting in this TZ. Right now all my time is going into repairs and shopping. I plan on a backboard decal and mirror blades, too.

#10485 4 months ago
Quoted from Mickpat:

I removed the entire backboard and that gave me more room to remove the flashers. I did a complete bulb swap and was able to replace the flashers without removing the gumball. I have removed the gumball and that was a pain, but did twist out like the manual explained.

This turned out to be exactly what I did. It irks me that the manual writer says I can "rotate" it and free it when that's clearly not true. It's helpful for me to have the back panel out, however, as now I can apply the decal easily. I've chose the one from Joey at PinballDecals.com. It basically mimics the front cabinet decal. It's fairly subtle I guess.

I pulled the wireform that feeds the gumball machine to polish it. I polished all the wireforms with bronze wool. Works well. No scratchy!

#10486 4 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

If the shaft has those "pinched" stops, you could grind them off with a dremil but i do not have any idea how to recreate them once they are gone.

That gate assembly is diabolical. If you grind off the flared sides of the peened end, you can get the hinge pin out, and get it back in, but you'll have no way to re-flare it and it will likely just slide out with gameplay. My solution? Leave it alone until I can find a better replacement.

#10487 4 months ago

Gumball Modding: Ideas, Anyone?

I want to spruce up my gumball machine by loading it with some eye-catching spheres. The translite shows pinballs in there - which is fly! Has anyone stuffed full-size pinballs in there? I doesn't like more than one or two would actually fit. What are some common examples of gumball mods for the gumball machine? It doesn't look as though it can be loaded from above. Do I have the right? Must I pull the whole toy and access the tank/jar from underneath?

#10491 4 months ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

The lamp is ugly and partially blocks the view of the gumball machine. I'll take a photo once my low profile upper playfield switches are installed and those hideous grey switch cover boxes are gone...

Low-profile switches? No grey hoods? Sounds promising! Share pics when you have them!

#10492 4 months ago
Quoted from atg1469:

I added pachinko balls to mine to give it a similar effect. Looks pretty cool and mimics the backglass to an extent. Takes a lot of balls though, like 60-70 total.

Pachinko, eh? Interesting. If I remember correctly, a Pachinko ball is about the size of the balls used in the lower PF on The Munsters - which is to say, *much* smaller than a pinball. Still, at least they're silver and gleam like pinballs.

I believe they still play Pachinko in Japan. Or is it China?

#10504 4 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

I used about 25-30 balls in each half. Looks better with the power on and pinbits lights shining down, but took these in a hurry! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's slick. I can see in just the one photo of your game how nice it is. Wow! Great example! Nice, straight, clear plastics on the main ramp! Cool back panel decal!

#10505 4 months ago
Quoted from snowvictim:

I fixed my game! A few minor issues left, but it’s playable.
The only thing is… my shooter rod broke and, well, I didn’t have anything else.
[quoted image]

Looks like a nice game. Congrats on bringing her back online. The rose shooter rod looks nice, if not exactly theme-appropriate.

#10506 4 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Love the low profile switches! A little bit of work to install, but well worth it!
[quoted image][quoted image]

That looks super dope. Great job!
Are these switches available from Marco's or Pinball Life, or are they part of an exclusive kit made by Twister?

#10508 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

IIRC someone in the US used to make them a long time ago but these days they are only available via Twister so you need to contact him directly

Thanks, Manny.
I'll reach out to Twister.

#10513 3 months ago

Easy-break Plastics?

Please list those playfield plastics on TZ that are particularly prone to breaking.

*Flipper lanes
*Slot Machine
*Rocket Pad
*Magna-Flip signs

What else?

Is the large plastic above the Jackpot scoop/hole anything to be concerned about? It takes shots from the upper-left flipper, but that flipper's coil is fairly mild. Or how about the wedge-shaped piece just above the upper-right flipper?


#10515 3 months ago

Is this normal?

I took this plastic off the playfield as part of the shopping process.
Its spacers are mismatched, causing it to bend.
Is there a purpose to that, or should I replace the longer spacer with something that matches the shorter one?

9C3CDDA7-6FF4-4F91-A808-956F759ABDF8 (resized).jpegFA320FE8-9007-4C2E-AFF6-42AF95A6AEC7 (resized).jpeg
#10519 3 months ago

Is my center lamp board missing its flasher board or did some TZ's ship without them?
Are they still available?
If I don't put one in, will my inserts look dim above these vacant holes?
Just want to build a complete game.

13D91E9C-BE64-4CAD-9ECB-FB8B2B3F65EC (resized).jpeg
#10531 3 months ago

GI LED Color and Brightness:

Which do you prefer?

Cool White?
Warm White?

2SMD or 1SMD?


#10533 3 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Sunlight 2SMD + GI OCD default settings (i may have tweaked them)

Thanks, but why do you need the OCD board for the GI alone?

#10544 3 months ago

How does this plunger come out of the bracket?
Weird cradle head seems pressed on.
Gum ball kicker.
Just resleeving all these kicker coils.

6650AC0A-DAA2-4131-A98D-6532FC9EAAC5 (resized).jpeg

#10547 3 months ago

Posts or star posts in upper zone of pops?

49B3614A-FA34-4FE8-BF5F-9CA47A4CBAC1 (resized).jpeg
#10548 3 months ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

Is't there a screw on top, in the "cup" so to speak ?

Yes. This became clear once I took the bracket off the PF.
Thanks, all.

#10552 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

As factory, star posts. Though nothing stopping you from putting anything else in there.

I wondered because the pop ring is hitting the rubber rings.
Now I'm stuck.

#10555 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Tighter rings, loosen the posts slightly and shift them, loosen the pop-bumper body/top and shift it. That is naturally a very very tight area. I remember having issues up there too.

Thanks, Coyote, for weighing in.
My solution was to shave a few millimeters from each of two sides of the ring. I had a conflict at the ballguide, too.

F7C750B2-EAD9-4DA9-A555-8C9661AF3671 (resized).jpeg
#10556 3 months ago

Back-panel decal to liven up the PF...

BD6EB8FC-A5E4-4130-83F8-AB41AADCF6C0 (resized).jpegC1FE1048-A5FF-4AF0-99CF-17C45E462B46 (resized).jpeg
#10561 3 months ago
Quoted from harig:

interesting to see a #44 bayonet socket in your bumper.
Any reason to put it instead the stock #555 ?

Good eye.
Switched to 44 sockets cause they'e a tad shorter (for cap clearance) and I like the security of the bayonet.

#10562 3 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Been eyeing that one myself....how is the quality??

Nice product for sure.
Just apply with care to beat air bubbles.
This is a gorgeous decal, but, sadly, you don't see most of it once installed.

#10563 3 months ago

Connector confusion:

Reconnecting various wiring harnesses after a topside tear-down.
Embarrassingly, I have three that are confusing me, all 2-pin and all with green and white leads.
On the right in the photo, the ramp harness's female 2-pin seems set to meet a 2-pin male, but what's going on with the 2-pin male on the left, ten inches away?
I *think* the left male is unrelated, but where is his mate?
He seems to be a subway switch just above the gumball kicker.

32A180B0-AF6F-4207-ACA3-B8933B626749 (resized).jpeg8A7E13BF-5A57-4DB8-922A-1378C9CC7C66 (resized).jpeg90AD7540-37B4-4C18-A446-CFDCE428F585 (resized).jpeg
#10568 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Second picture is your Left Ramp (made) switch, #54. The first pne you have pictured is likely you Left Ram Enter switch, #53.
I am guessing when you put you installed your ramp, you forgot to feed the entry switch plug through the hole in the PF.

You are very clever, Coyote!
Forgot to fish the left ramp's switch connector/harness down through the PF.
BIG problem, as I had no access with the ramps installed.
Enter: the lifesaver!
A length of coat hanger cut/bent into a wire fisher!
Crisis averted!

3449A30A-9DBA-4C65-94A1-BE58832982DB (resized).jpeg8CFD7CB8-1D71-4DFB-8B9B-8A04C6FFCE7C (resized).jpegFCB4DF97-8B60-4DD0-8482-A3462BA06E98 (resized).jpeg
#10572 3 months ago

Opto Confusion:

Left-magnet opto switch (#83) out.
Had to pull the ramp to inspect.
Orange lead disconnected.
Whew! Problem solved!
Not so fast...
After the solder repair, the switch is still open in test (should be closed until beam is broken).
Meter reads 2V at working optos elsewhere on PF, but 29V at #83.
29V???? WTF?
Photo shows left- and right opto connectors.
All looks Kosher but clearly is not.
AE587081-CFBA-4614-BF52-75028A09416A (resized).jpeg

B094B629-C170-41BE-9A5E-3F7305E154D0 (resized).jpeg
#10574 3 months ago

LED shade of white for inserts:

What do you prefer?

Warm White?
Natural/Cool White?

All 1SMD?

#10575 3 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Did you mean slot machine target needs to be reinforced?

I believe he meant the yellow target to the left of the Player Piano Jackpot hole/scoop opposite the upper-left flipper. The only source I know of for the "reinforced" target is The Pinball Resource. I installed one at the Slot Machine scoop and one beside the pops that takes the most punishment. I s'pose I should have put one by the Player Piano but I did not. They cost about $9 each and come with the diode already soldered in place. The soldering involved to swap out a target is fairly simple. It's good practice for basic soldering technique. Hard to screw it up.

#10583 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I am guessing you checked multiple times to make sure this wasn't a mistake/meter error? If so, again I don't have a ton of knowledge with this game and don't have time to look in the manual before heading out to work, but if this has an associated resistor (which many do) I would check that first. It's also worth checking the voltage from the PCB to see where that is at.

Hi, NG. Thanks for your help. I did check and recheck the voltage at the switch and couldn't believe it read 29V when it should read just 2V. I will replace the opto and see where we are. I will have to ask LTG for help reading diagrams if I hope to find the associated resistor and just where the power for that switch leaves the PCB - or even *which* PCB. Do you *not* recommend just replacing the opto and seeing what happens?

#10584 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

That's going to come down to your tastes. I have terrible night vision, anything dim and dark is miserable for me so I like my pins bright. I go natural white for: white, yellow amber and then the associated color for blue, green, red, purple. And much to the dismay of Taxman (RIP) I go 4 SMD.
I've read through the first ten or so pages of this group and must say it is one of the better and most helpful ones out there. It seems like a really solid and passionate group of pin owners. I cannot wait to get this PF started. It's great when you can help get a friend's pin back up and running.

Hi again, NG. Got it. A matter of taste. Sifting through this thread turns up *many* posts about shades of white - in GI and inserts - as wells as color matching inserts, etc. My initial impression of the stock lighting is, gosh, this is so yellow/dirty/dim! I just have the urge to clean everything, to brighten it up somehow - although I already have cleaned all the lenses of the stock bulbs!
I'm going to try the GI OCD board to start with and natural/cool 2SMD frosted bulbs from Comet. I may break down and buy the insert OCD board later, but for now I will tolerate the yellow/dirty/dim incandescents. I foresee using cool white 1SMD clear for the clear inserts and warm white 1SMD clear for red/orange/amber inserts - either with the OCD board or without it. Not sure what I would use in backbox. Perhaps 1SMD Sunlight. I like the idea of the OCD board as I like the freedom to use whatever LED/SMD I care to in any spot on the PF or for any insert - the way I can on a modern pin. I just wish they weren't so expensive. This game is turning out to be a bit of money pit and I still haven't ponied up for the color DMD!

#10586 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

On my MM, there is a PCB under the PF that has a resistor stack on it for the optos. Resistors bring down the voltage so it's the first place I would look if it's that high at the switch. The opto itself is pretty simple and I doubt it would cause what you are experiencing voltage wise.
I have my friend's manual here and have the day off tomorrow, so I can dig a little more.

This appears to be the animal.
The upper connectors are optos. The opto wiring harness begins here and snakes to all the optos - trough, lock, upper PF, magnets, etc.
How can the board supply the proper voltage to all of them *except* switch #83? The board doesn't supply the optos individually, does it?
Each opto has a simple PCB on it. Perhaps that's faulty on #83. Perhaps replacing the opto will sort it out.
At least we know a replacement board is available:
Manual shows J4-3 feeds switch #83.
Resistors servicing that connector look good.
Red-black-red-gold. Is that 40ohm?
Can these be tested on the board?
I would rather not desolder one to test it.
Not sure which corresponds to J4-3 though.
D98EADF2-4EC9-43EC-B5AC-94637845B6EE (resized).jpeg
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#10597 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Okay, first,

Okay, so first, you need to realize that that board only gets 12v unregulated, which should NOT be as high as 30v.
All LEDs (the sending part of the opto switch) have one feed wired together in serial, and all PHOTO-TRANSISTORS (the receiving end) has one feed wire all connected. The other wire to each opto/led go straight to this board you have pictured.
If you ARE getting ~30v, then something is shorted, and it is likely NOT the opto board above. Do NOT put on another opto, and feed 30v through it; you will just fry it faster than a hot-dog on the sidewalk in Arizona. Trace the wire that's giving you the 30v through the wiring harness; likely it is shorting against a flasher wire.

Got it.
12V from the board. Impossible to get 29V from it unless a short is involved.
I'm embarrassed to say that today's reading at the switch is 13V. Doubt it changed. More likely I misused the meter. Including a photo here for you to confirm meter setting and probe use. 20V DC is the setting.
The upper PF's opto switch reads 6.5V and the right magnet's opto not even 2V.
So, clearly things are amiss. Oddly, all the other opto switches work in test, despite the goofy voltages.
Note: I probably don't need to point this out, but for the record I am a rank amateur repair tech with no experience on machines of this vintage.

Also, in single-switch test for #83 the wires are described in colors that do NOT match the leads to this switch. They are grey and orange/black. These same colors feed the other optos, too.
8EF3A25E-5361-4935-84AC-2C368F3DE092 (resized).jpeg

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#10601 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

The colors reported on the display are for the switch row and column.

Oh. Got it. Thanks.

Quoted from Coyote:

<snip>Pages 3-16 and 3-17 will answer the wire-color issue for you, and will also show you where to check next.
13.77v is a good voltage on 12vu (unregulated).

Also very helpful. Thanks!

Quoted from Coyote:

This is assuming, too, that you used your cel-phone camera, aimed it at the emitter (the white one just across) and saw a glow.

No glow on #83 before, but I'm happy to report that I installed a new opto set from Pinball Life today and the switch is working again. Whew!
Thanks for putting up with all my photo-laden posts. I was some worried there! I will check my voltages tomorrow - from the black side only!

#10602 3 months ago

LED ColorDMD, anyone?

I know LCD ColorDMD's are very common in TZ, but are there listmembers here who have/prefer the LED version?

Sadly, I can't find any clips of TZ's LED ColorDMD on YouTube to compare. Indeed it's hard to find any clips at all of LED ColorDMD's, but I did find one of TFTC and it looked bright/dope.


#10609 3 months ago

No Upper PF Magnet Action.

"Magnet Test" shows flipper switches closing with each flipper-button press, but no magnet pulses to affect test ball.
Spiral magnets work fine.
Thought it might be a fuse but don't see any dedicated to the magnets in the fuse list.
And yes, the upper PF connectors are connected, including the thick branch for the magnets.

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#10610 3 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Made a quick video of attract mode to show the basics of the ED ColorDMD... not the greatest video as my phone doesn't like the brightness of the display!

Thanks, Awesome.
That was helpful.
Looks great!

#10613 3 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Was it working and stopped or did you remove the power field and now it doesn't work?

I've never seen it work, frankly.
I played one test game when I bought the pin and didn't reach the upper PF.
I immediately started my shop job, including pulling the upper PF, when I got it home.

#10615 3 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Do the magnets in the orbit work?

Yes, as I wrote, the "Spiral" magnets work fine.

#10619 3 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

did you test the upper pf entry switch to see if that works?

Not yet.
I will get back to you.

#10624 3 months ago

Source for used, WPC89 coin doors, anyone?

My coin door and frame look awful. Too much rust/corrosion and the door doesn't close smoothly. I don't want to take it all apart and refinish it. Too much work, too much expense. I would rather find a used donor door and frame. Any ideas where I should look? I wish there were a bone yard I could visit.
This photo is *not* my door!

WPC89.coin.door (resized).jpg
#10630 3 months ago

Pulled my upper PF in my effort to troubleshoot the magnets.
Hoping to find something obvious under here but, alas, no such luck.
What are the odds that the current disruption is here and not farther up stream?
How does one intelligently troubleshoot this PF?
Do I raise the main PF, reconnect the upper's harness, and then test voltage at the connector closest to each magnet? That will be awkward for sure.
The other issue is the probes on my meter.
They are shielded almost to the tips.
I will need to stuff them into the female 6-pin molex to measure the voltage.
Last photo below shows the connector for magnet portion upper PF's harness.
Not sure how much success I will have testing the mate with my probes.
Might have to fashion a test-specific connector with short leads.
I'm a bit lost here.

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#10634 3 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Hi Jason_Jehosaphat,
I had a problem with the magnets which stopped working on my TZ mini-playfield several years ago. The issue ended up being my U-20 chip (ULN2803) was fried. See the URL below for the troubleshooting involved and a final resolution. Post #4 in this thread contains a URL which details the troubleshooting involved and eventual resolution.

Hi, Gord.
Thanks for the suggestion.
None of my switches is out, so I don't suspect a fried U-20. I could be wrong, of course.

#10635 3 months ago

3-6 in service manual shows Solenoids #25 and 26 (left and right upper PF magnets) are powered by the DC Motor Control board, which sits below the back right corner of the main PF.
Mine appears fine. Am I looking for voltage at J124, 1 and 2? And *what* voltage?

13583B62-5DE1-40E5-A93C-6EC05CC0D9FE (resized).jpeg5BBE7389-F7A8-4DC6-AF94-1DA4E68C4801 (resized).jpegC0438D92-65B7-4B80-AE5A-48C3D2137E12 (resized).jpeg

#10637 3 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

The motor control board only controls the clock motor movement.

My mistake.
Solenoids 25 and 26 are powered by the Power Driver Board!
I misread the diagram.

#10638 3 months ago

Magnets Continued...

Can I safely probe this connector during the solenoid test (25, 26) from the back?
1 and 2 feed the upper PF magnets.

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#10640 3 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Back-probing on an IDC connector is not always reliable. It's much better to follow the connection to the actual device, then forward-probe the device connectors. Also, you would need to check terminal-to-pin tension to assure the connection is sound. Terminals have internal spring plates to force contact tension to the mating pin, and if the spring tension goes away, the terminal won't make proper contact.
Also worth noting is that any header connector with pins should be checked on the PC board for solder integrity. Cold solder connections, especially the high current terminations, are fairly common and will drive you crazy until you find the culprit and re-flow the solder joint.

Thanks for your suggestions.
Before I reflow any solder, I would like to check voltage at the upper PF's harness.
Pictured is the main harness's connector that supplies the upper's harness.
Solenoid wiring diagram shows power to 25 & 26 (left & right upper PF magnets) through blue/red and blue/brown, both of which I see at the connector.
Which wire here is common? Both of the lower magnets appear to have purple leads so I will assume purple is common in all cases.

Also, how does one best use solenoid test mode to check voltage? In solenoid test, you can cycle through "Running," "Repeat," and "Stopped." Do I leave it on "Running" and expect a constant voltage? And what voltage would that be? 50VDC? Can I safely test holding my probes as pictured with the game in solenoid test mode? I'm assuming 50VDC is fairly dangerous.
Decided not to risk handling the probes during test and fashioned a stand-in using a modified Z-connector and wire clips.


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#10641 3 months ago

Test Results:

I started by measuring the voltage at the connectors for the two magnets I know are working. Plugged my red probe into the connector's power lead and the common probe to the cabinet's ground braid. Set the meter to 200VDC.

Nada for both of the working magnets, so clearly my test arrangement is flawed. I'm now stuck. Also tried again with meter set to 20VDC.

Is the problem that I'm testing a disconnected connector? Must I leave it connected and test it from the back? I can't get my test probes in there and I'm spooked about doing any digging there during a magnet pulse.

#10642 3 months ago

Discouraging Development:

Voltage test at the driver board in "Magnet Test" shows @80V to each of the working left- and right magnets, but nothing to either the upper PF magnets.

What would cause this?

Am I overlooking something simple? A blown fuse comes to mind, but I see no mention of magnets in the fuse guide in the manual. All fuses on the driver board are fine.

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#10645 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

You are jumping ALL over. Take a breather, and slow down.<snip>

My apologies - to you, to everyone - but I have toiled over this game, "shopping" it to a fairly high standard over the last month, and I was hoping that I'd reached the finish line and could finally play the thing. I just wanted it realize its potential, so I tore it down and committed myself to sorting it out, truly. I didn't pay a lot for it but it needed a lot of attention. Along the way I have learned a lot, but, as I wrote earlier, am I a rank amateur tech and this game has obviously challenged me consistently. Troubleshooting the upper PF magnets clumsily is just one of what feel like dozens of hurdles, but I'm hanging in there. If I'm testing your patience, I'm sorry. I realize these threads shouldn't be dominated by the postings of a single user, but you are my best source for guidance and, again, I just wanted to play the game after weeks of work. I will try this last suggestion to the letter and see where I end up. Thank you!

#10646 3 months ago

Testing both violet ("power") leads at the connector to the upper PF's harness reveals c. 70V, so that's encouraging.
The continuity test on the driver wires of the working magnets reveals no beep but does show a pulse of c. 1.5V when magnet pulses in Magnet Test. The same test on the upper PF driver wires shows no continuity for pulses in solenoid test set on "Repeat."
Driver wires can be traced to the 8 high-power driver board beneath the PF.
If there are driver issues, do they originate at this board or on the main driver board?
I assume there are things to learn with the meter and this board.
A good samaritan nearby will let me test my A-16116 board in his TZ. If his magnets don't work with my board, I'll have my culprit.
Thankfully, these boards are for sale new.

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#10652 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

My apologies for asking, as I have not yet gotten to break down the mini playfield, but I was wondering if it uses the same magnet cores as the playfield? My friend's magnets have some wear and I know I can buy new cores, but if the minis were the same I would just swap them out. I know the body is the same, and the manual shows the same part number I just wasn't sure if they used the same core.[quoted image][quoted image]

Smart idea!
Harvest two pristine magnets from mini-PF!
That never occurred to me, so I took out the cores and dressed/polished them.

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#10654 3 months ago

Magnets Cont'd:

Quoted from Coyote:

If you do NOT get a strobe of continuity, then the High-power driver is fine; it's not activating because it's not seeing the signal from the power driver board.

No continuity beep with common probe connected to cabinet ground braid and red probe used to probe blue/red and blue/brown at the back of the connector - both at the driver board or the high-power board.
It seems the power driver board isn't sending a signal to the high-power board in test or during game play. Why? Does the driver board get that signal from the CPU? During game play, I s'pose it could come from the Fliptronics board, but during test the Fliptronics boards isn't involved, correct? That command to drive the magnets should come from the CPU and be carried to the driver board via the ribbon cable, no? I know I have continuity from the driver board to the mini-PF harness for both blue/red and blue/brown, so I don't suspect a wiring problem. That leaves the CPU (a new Rottendog, so that's unlikely), the ribbon cables (do these ever fail?), or the power driver board. Any ideas?
Oh, and I forgot to mention that I installed my high-power driver board in another TZ and the magnets on that machine still worked fine, so we know it's not that board.

#10655 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Those came out great! Did you just grind them and then polish?

I have no grinder/polisher.
I put the core in a vice and dressed the top with a bastard-cut file until it was flat/true, then I took it out of the vice, flipped it upside-down, and pushed it back and forth *many* times over a sheet of sand paper laid on a flat plank. I used progressively finer sandpaper until I reached 1K grit. Lastly, I polished it by hand with Brasso.

#10657 3 months ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Hey all new to the group just added a Fully Restored TZ to the collection. Very excited to have this awesome machine in the collection.
Only issue is the dang Proximity Sensor switch #26. I got the game with the error so just went straight to Marco and bought both parts the coil and sensor board. I'm still having issues. I get nothing from the original Coil board in either sensor board, so that seems bad. The original sensor board looks like a repro also says Anarchy PCB and is black. With the new coil and old sensor board still no change can't get the light to turn off even after adjusting the pot on it. So both new parts now installed, I get a light on when a metal ball is in an can adjust down to have the light turn off. Seems to be working correctly. When the power ball is in the sensor the through switch 15 registers light on sensor board goes out but still have through sensor error.
Something I did notice switching back and forth on the boards when I connect the old sensor board in switch test it Registers as switch 26 but stays locked on. I don't get any notification of switch 26 when I plug in the new board. New board also says Golf Pinball.
Is the new board bad? I just got everything installed this evening and will reach out to Marco tomorrow.
Thanks Berto
[quoted image][quoted image]

Holy shirt!
That thing is stunning!
The PF looks dreamy!
Oh, and where did you get those great apron cards? I want a set.

#10664 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

<snip>If you did not, check continuity between the PDB and the 8-driver high power board.

Thanks for the suggestion. I did check continuity between the PDB and the 8-high power driver board and between the 8-high board and the mini-PF. All good.

I have had the very good fortune to work with LTG on this and he graciously allowed me to install, individually, the following parts/boards from my game in his game:

1. Fliptronics board
2. 8-high power driver board
3. CPU
4. Power driver board
5. Ribbon cables

In all cases, LTG's TZ worked fine, including the mini-PF magnets, with my parts, so I'm back to square-one.
To be honest, I'm not even back to square-one; after returning the Fliptronics board to my game, my flipper buttons aren't working. The flipper coils fire in test, but the machine doesn't respond to the pressing of the flipper buttons, in test or game play. All connectors appear to be seated properly and the fuses are good.



#10666 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

It sounds like the flipper button switches aren't working or are not being seen by the fliptronics board. To confirm, go into switch test mode and see if they are being recognised when pressing the flipper buttons.
Given all flippers are out I suspect that the boards are not connected properly to the fliptronics board or that the left flipper opto board is not getting power from the power driver board which will also cause the right flipper opto board not to work as well as it gets power from the left flipper opto board (see 3-24 & 3-25 pages in the manual)

Thanks for your help.
Flipper buttons fail in test.
I believe connectors J905 and J906 on the Fliptronics main board link to the opto switches. Both are plugged in properly, as are the connectors on the opto switches.

#10667 3 months ago

Latest/Best Game ROM?

My machine was made in 5/25/93 and is running the REV L-2 ROMset.
IPDB shows revisions up to REV L-5.
Is there a benefit to running the later revisions?
Is there any chance that my magnet woes are attributable to my ROMset?
Were there ever any versions that omitted the mini-PF magnets?
I know it's a long shot.
My game also has a Rottendog CPU. Why would Rottendog load an old ROMset?

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#10670 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Did you check the power driver connection and confirm you have power at the opto boards?

I have 12V at each of the flipper opto switches.
Is this a switch-matrix error?
Is it a ribbon cable?

Not sure if it matters, but I have 0V at the #7 pin on the left opto connector. I do have 12V at #6 though.

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#10677 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

So just to confirm:
1. all the flippers work in solenoid test mode - right?
2. both flipper buttons don't show any switch activation in switch test mode - right?
3. J905 (on the fliptronics board) and J1 (on both flipper opto boards) are correctly socketed - right?
4. J903 ribbon cable is orientated on the fliptronics board correctly, with the red line of the ribbon cable matching to J903-1?
4. J1-6 has 12V and J1-3 is grounded - right?
Did you remove the flipper opto boards to test them in your friends machine or was it just the fliptronics board?

Yes to all except the last; I did *not* install my flipper opto's in Lloyds game.

#10678 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Since items worked in another game, that means:
1. Your continuity tests were flawed,
Possible but unlikely. Not hard to check.

2. You didn't actually check the magnets on the Mini PF
Only know how to check them in solenoid- and magnet tests, and both were the first things I did. Thanks for the suggestion though.

I don't remember if you checked them, but if you DIDN'T, that would be the next step.

#10681 3 months ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Unless it's an optical illusion... the board connector not only looks broken, but the mating half doesn't look fully seated.

Broken. True. But seated.

#10682 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

If you remove J905, start a game and then jumper J905-1 to ground - does the lower right flipper activate? If it does then the issue is the flipper opto boards and/or connectivity, but if it doesn't trigger then the issue is the fliptronics board

Are you telling me I can safely short #1 to ground?
I worry that I will short two pins and damage the board.

#10691 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

If you remove J905, start a game and then jumper J905-1 to ground - does the lower right flipper activate? If it does then the issue is the flipper opto boards and/or connectivity, but if it doesn't trigger then the issue is the fliptronics board

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm unable to even start a game.
Start button not responsive.
Now I'm wondering if the coin door interface board is unhappy.
I know I have 12V at J2-4.
Did I disrupt ground by pulling this old bill validator?

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#10705 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

If you remove J905, start a game and then jumper J905-1 to ground - does the lower right flipper activate? If it does then the issue is the flipper opto boards and/or connectivity, but if it doesn't trigger then the issue is the fliptronics board

Sorry for the delayed response.
I tried shorting J905-1 to ground and the flipper did NOT fire.
All switches are working, excluding the flipper optos.
Mini-PF magnets still down.

#10706 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Try removing the fliptronics board. Clean the pads on the back that touch the mounting posts on the back wall. Then clean the top of those posts good. To be sure that board is grounded in the game good.
Problems here always seem to involve the fliptronics board, that you know is good. And all the other boards work good so we know they are grounded good.
LTG : )

Thanks for the suggestion. Still no flippers.

#10708 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I got the second coat of wax down on my friend's PF today. Tomorrow I shall start repopulating. As they say thoughts and prayers...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome work!
That PF cleaned up beautifully!!
Your homey is gonna be jazzed!

#10709 3 months ago

Dead Sockets:

Lamps at upper corners on my "Door" board aren't working. I know the sockets are fine as I can rotate them around the board to check them.
I was told to reflow the solder at the connector, which I have now done.
Multimeter reads 1.5V at working sockets and 0V at the corners.
How do I revive this pair?

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#10714 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Were you measuring the voltage in the twist in socket where the LED goes - in which case look at LTG post. If you were measuring on the PCB pads the socket connects to, then I'd say you still have a problem at the header pin or the connector

Measured at the pads.
Having the same issue with this board.
I reflowed solder at these pins, too, but the procedure makes me nervous as each solder point is perilously close to its neighbor. Risk of shorting seems high.
Also, voltage test on the connector shows a variety of voltages, but there *is* voltage at each/every pin for both of the problem boards.
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#10717 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Nah I'm across the issues he's having, but after he returned the boards to his machine he posted the following

Yet from a post today it looks like he's fixed that issue - hence I was specifically asking what was the issue with the start button, as in how did he resolve it. As that might be useful to know in troubleshooting the other issues.
I got him to test the flipper buttons in switch test mode and they aren't registering, however when he shorted J905-1 to ground it didn't trigger the flipper either. The opto boards do have power.

Start button sorted. Just poorly seated in socket and not actuating when pressed.
Sorry not to mention that.
Flipper buttons don't register in test.
Flipper coils will fire in solenoid- and flipper tests.

#10721 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

What type of solder are you using to reflow your joints?


#10722 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Do a connectivity test on your DMM between the pad and the header pin - I think you'll find some pins need to be reflowed

Continuity between pin and pad in all three cases.

#10726 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Diode for each bulb good ?
LTG : )

Not sure as my test method is apparently flawed.
Meter set to 2Kohms resistance, then to 200ohms. Black probe to cathode, red to anode. No reading.

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#10729 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65: Couple of things to do:
1. Clean the optos with alcohol on a Q-tip then test if your flipper buttons work
2. Swap the opto boards between the left and right sides then test if your flipper buttons work
3. Go into switch test mode and try jumping J905-1 to J905-6, then try J905-2 to J905-6, J905-3 to J905-6 and J905-5 to J905-6
Done. No jump fires a flipper.
Let us now what you find

#10730 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Thanks for confirming the start button issue.
As to the flipper problem, we know that the fliptronics board works, the flipper coils work in test mode, the flipper opto switches don't work in test mode but are connected and both opto boards have power. What is strange is that shorting J905-1 to J905-6 (ground) doesn't register as a switch closing.
Couple of things to do:
1. Clean the optos with alcohol on a Q-tip then test if your flipper buttons work
2. Swap the opto boards between the left and right sides then test if your flipper buttons work
3. Go into switch test mode and try jumping J905-1 to J905-6, then try J905-2 to J905-6, J905-3 to J905-6 and J905-5 to J905-6
Let us now what you find

No jump in J905 fires a flipper.
Opto switches cleaned and swapped.

#10732 3 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Put your meter in diode mode...see the symbol on it

Diodes all have approximately identical readings.

#10735 3 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

Assuming a cold solder joint, I reflowed solder to the offending <S> header pin and it has worked perfectly ever since which has been a couple of years now. I am not saying that this is the same issue in your case, but it is something to consider.

Hi, Gord. Thanks for your input.
I already flowed solder at the base of each pin, adding a tiny amount in each case. I suppose I could do it again but this time *not* add more. I don't really know what more there could be to reflowing solder at connector pins. I hold the iron tip to the solder on one side of the pin and my piece of solder wire on the other. The solder flows, a second or two later my solder flows, I remove my solder and the iron, the solder cools. What else is there?

#10747 3 months ago


I brought my mini-PF to Lloyd's and connected it to the harness in his game. Switches, opto, and lamps: yes. Magnets: no. Does anything in this photo jump out at you? I have continuity from the main magnet connector to each magnet connector (violet and violet/white). Remember, my Spiral magnets work, and I already tested my 8-high power driver- and power-driver boards in Lloyd's machine. Is it a grounding issue? I assume that if the the mini-PF weren't grounded properly the switches, opto, and lamps wouldn't be working - but they *did* work in my test swap. It still seems so unlikely that *both* magnets have somehow failed. I mean, I would expect a magnet to fail about as often as a standard coil - which is to say rarely if ever.

I brought my ailing lamp boards to Lloyd's and they work fine in his machine. I guess I have to clean my connectors somehow.

I borrowed Lloyd's Fliptronics board and installed it in my game. Flippers worked normally. I then put my own board back and they did not. Lloyd's inspection of my board pointed to the bridge rectifier - which he then graciously replaced - but it didn't revive the board.


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#10751 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Jump the purple wire. It may have a break internally you can't see.
LTG : )

You're telling me the wire could well be broken despite the continuity? Not sure how I would safely jump violet wire.

#10752 3 months ago
Quoted from Gingerbloke:

If you have a good connection and the continuity test isn’t making a noise - jump the cable and see it this fixes it - the Purple cable could well be broken in the cable.

Thanks for your input. I have continuity - and thus a "beep" - when measuring.

#10755 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Have you Ohm tested your magnets? Sorry if I missed it. You should be able to tell instantly if your magnet coils are good. They do fail. They should test at about 4.5 Ohms. Just set your meter to Ohms and place the leads on each wire running to the coil.

Thanks for the suggestion.
Both are pulling 5 Ohms apparently.

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#10758 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

The magnets are controlled by J124 pin 1 / 2 and J109 pin 5 / 7. How do they look? Q24 and Q26 are the control transistors. Check those out too.

I will look, but don't forget I put my PDB in Lloyd's TZ and his magnets worked fine.

#10759 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

How do you know the mini playfield magnets aren’t working? They don’t work in test or they don’t work in actual game play? There is an opto that gets tripped when the ball goes to the mini playfield in game play. If that isn’t working your magnets won’t. Check out that opto in the switch test.

Magnets don't work in test or in gameplay.
Opto and switches work fine in test.

#10761 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Sorry, just looked at the manual. It is switch 44 (not a opto). Make sure that is working on your game.

Thanks for the suggestion.
That entry switch registers in test.

#10763 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Are you sure fuse F103 is OK? Double check it and the fuse clips with the multimeter.

I have continuity end-to-end on all the PDB fuses and from each fuse to its clips.
Again though, I tested my power driver board in Lloyd's TZ and his magnets worked.

#10764 3 months ago

Mini-PF magnets are now working!

I know you all like a good puzzle so I will give you two clues. It was with these two clues alone that I came to the solution.
Both are attached here.
Good luck.
A virtual Snickers bar for the first to get it!
Hint: ignore the meter.

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#10767 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:Magnets - looks like you have the left and right magnet connections switched

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#10770 3 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

So, they did work just not for the correct switch?

The magnets didn't work at all until the connectors were switched back to stock - violet/white to right.

#10771 3 months ago



I'm looking at the lamp matrix in the manual and surprised to see all the lamps that are out reside in a single row - #7. Legend reads Red-Violet, J133-8, Q84. That pin resides on the PDB. Looks fine. I will check continuity to the lamp board connectors.
Okay, I do *not* have continuity between the lamp connector at the PDB and the connector at the lamp board. Do you suspect a broken wire or a failed transistor? Is Q84 the transistor in question? How can it be tested?
Found this broken wire near a dead socket and - lo' and behold! - it's red/violet.
Now to figure out how it connects to that socket. Does it go to the banded end of the diode?
All sockets happy!

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#10774 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Compare to your other sockets. All wired the same. Only the stripes on the main color are different.
LTG : )


#10775 3 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

Hey guys would like to share a couple of photos of my Tz topper I'm working on. It is permanently lit but flashes during timed modes. Looks neat in person and the yellow is very close to the translite pyramid. It also has a blue light coming from the front eye but my photo doesn't show it well.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Super dope!
Great job!
Your translite is beautifully lit. LED's? Is so, what shade of white?
Or is that a CPR mirrored backglass?

#10778 3 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

Thanks, cool white and super bright except around twilight zone, these are cool white but quite dim leds.

Interesting. "Super Brights"? Do you mean simply 2SMD?

#10779 3 months ago

Rocket Kicker Warning?

My Rocket kicker will fire the instant the switch is closed.
I've noticed on other TZs there is a pause, then a strobe warning, and *then* the kicker fires.
My game ROM is REV-L2 I believe.
Do I need L5 instead?

#10782 3 months ago

Please tell me where this mini-PF corner-protector mod is available online. If it was made by a Pinsider, does anyone recall who that was?

corner.protector.cropped (resized).jpg
#10784 3 months ago

Ah! Cliffys! I should have guessed.

Thanks, LTG.

#10786 3 months ago


I just cleaned my translite. It was more cream colored than white on the backside. Yellowed with age, I guess. Lately I've been lusting after the CPR mirrored backglass but didn't want to blow the $300+ to get it. So, I figured I would do my level best to clean/revive my original translite first. I wasn't sure how to attack it. I separated it from the glass and laid it face down on the bench covered with a cotton tarp. I tried 409. Barely touched it. Also IPA:H20. Nah! Then I tried Crazy Clean. Only slightly better. Then I tried P21S Paint Cleanser Wax Prep. It's basically a gentle polish with some kind of detergent. That was as aggressive as I dared go. I rubbed it in, then wiped it off with a damp micro fiber rag. I did bring the translite around until it was somewhere between cream and white, but it sure wasn't bleach-white. I have bought cool-white 1SMD bulbs for the backbox from Comet and I hope the newly cleaned translite will look its best ever when finally installed. I will take a photo then. I'm a sucker for real backglasses. Love the mirrored accents and the vibrant color!

#10787 3 months ago


I'm really on the fence about a ColorDMD. I mean, sure, I would love to have one, but they are $450, shipped. Oof! I saw a clip on YouTube of a color display set to B&W. At first I thought it foolish, but then I realized that even a monochrome display in black/white is much more appealing than one in red! If I do buy a ColorDMD, I will certainly give the B&W look a try. I don't actually like many of the other B&W mods for TZ - artblades, for example. Yeah, the show aired on TV before there were color sets and all, but TZ's playfield is ablaze with color and laying B&W anything beside it looks...well, awful. How many of you ColorDMD owners have yours set to B&W?

#10788 3 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

No I think they are only one smd but bright

All right. Got it. From what vendor? Did you buy "blinking" LED's for the blinking bulbs? Are they plug-and-play or do they flicker without an OCD board?

#10789 3 months ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

The two links below show the ROM revision history for TZ.
Review these documents and pick which ROM best suits your needs. I have been running game rom U6 L9.4H since 2007 on my TZ and it works great.

Hi, Gord.
Thanks for the helpful links.
That L9.4H looks great. I don't know that I would use very many of those additional features, but it's just $12, so I will buy/install it just to be sure I have the latest re: that Rocket kicker. I was intrigued by the sound ROM's, too (who doesn't want the best callouts and sound-FX?), but I found an old post here pointing out that the L2 sound ROM adds very little. So, I will skip that one.

#10790 3 months ago

I'm with you; it makes no sense. I assumed that switched connectors would just mean reversed flipper controls. I did *not* imagine it would disable the magnets entirely!

#10797 3 months ago

How to Safely Remove TZ Playfield?

I need to pull the PF from my game to remove/refinish the carriage bolts that support the slide mechanism.
I've never removed the PF from a Bally/Williams cabinet with this style of mechanism and I don't see any instructions for actual removal in the manual. With a Stern game, you can slide the PF out to the service position and then just lift it out. With this mechanism, sliding the PF out to the service position engages the pivot-lock mech. Is the answer to slide the PF only midway out of the cabinet so the mech can't engage the pins on that plate?

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#10798 3 months ago

Does anyone have this particular style of artblades installed in his/her TZ? If so, how do you like them? Winners? Or would rather have a different style after all? If you have time to snap a photo and post it here I would love to see them in situ. Thanks!

TZ.Tilt.Graphics.Gameblades (resized).jpg
#10832 89 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

1. Two people needed.
2. Pull PF forward so it locks into place.
3. Pivot up so it's at a 75-degree angle. With each person gripping the back of the playfield (NOT the back board, but the PF where the back board meets the playfield) use your other hand to press that hood (arrow) in towards the playfield.
4. This will create an opening for that pivot bolt to slide back up - and once free, the playfield will try to *drop down* into the cabinet. (Why your other hands are back there!)
5. Lower playfield downward until the pivot bolt is free of the latch (the arrow part), then angle PF back towards back of cabinet so that the latch won't catch, and then lift up and out.

Okay, I appreciate the thorough instructions, but, again, is it necessary to engage the pivot-lock?
It seems like you have do some death-defying hoisting if you do engage the lock.
Why not just draw the PF *partially* out and lift it out when it's more or less level? No need to draw it out entirely and engage that mech. What am I missing?

#10838 88 days ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Has anyone installed these? If so where did you run their lines through and to?[quoted image]

I've installed Comet's star-post lights on a few games. You need to tap into a GI string using one of their "Quick Connects":


I suggest plugging it into the socket just beneath the lower-left corner of the mini-PF. There are two there. Join the wires from the two star-post lights to a 2-into-1 splitter and from there to the Quick Connect. You might need a 6" extension wire to reach your Quick Connect from your splitter. All of that should tuck neatly under your mini-PF's carboard underside panel.
What color star post did you decide on? I believe clear with clear rubbers is fairly common when using star post lights on TZ's mini-PF, but blue star posts look dope there, too, for sure.

#10839 88 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

You can, but the issue I ran into is that if you don't pivot the field up enough, you can't lift it up high enough to clear the latches: The back board and ramps hit the underside of the cabinet under the backbox.
By pivoting it up higher, it allows clearance.

Thanks for your thoughts/experience.
Just seems like you can get a hand down behind the backboard when the PF is partially drawn out of the cabinet and just lift. Get your buddy on the front end and up/out she goes!

#10840 88 days ago


Anyone here with both OCD boards installed?
I just installed a set in my TZ and immediately I have issues.
All of my switches, including optos, are out.
No GI in the clock or coin door or Start buttons.
Sent closeup photos to LED OCD and they said install looks okay.
Double checked all connectors and ribbon cables.
Kit says plug the GI board's harness into game's GI harness, but that means depowering a ton of stuff. (See photo.)
Suggestions sought.

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#10842 87 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Off the top of my head...did you install the ground on the gi board?
Nvm... I see it now...check ribbon connectors are seated correctly? Nothing here should affect your switches matrix, but a bad ribbon connection...that's all sorts of crazy

Hi. Thanks for your input.
Blunder discovered:
I had J106 in J107 (same key and pin count) and J108 in J109 (same key and pin count). So, I have my switches back.

#10843 87 days ago

Clock GI Troubleshooting:

(I don't know that the clock face is technically part of the game's GI, but it seems to be on steadily when the game is on, so I'm including it.)

Please tell me how to troubleshoot my clock's GI. In test, you have the chance to watch the hands move forward or backward, slowly or quickly, but no chance to test the SMD's in the clock's face. Also, there is no "clock" lamp in the single lamp tests - more evidence that its lighting belongs to the GI. The clock's wiring harness is a bulky thing and may have two or more connectors. Whatever the case, they are plugged in, but without the chance to ask for "help" when checking its lamp in test, I can't identify which wires/connector feed the lights. I'm assuming the harness supplies power to the board and it in turn powers the SMD's in the face. I had the clock out for the duration of the teardown, not surprisingly, but its lighting worked when I first got the game back together. The change occurred after the installation of the OCD boards. If the board is fried, why do the clock's hands work fine in test?

Ideas sought.

#10846 87 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Manual has the pinouts for the clock board connectors.
If the clock works and no GI. I'd concentrate on the playfield GI connector lower left corner area of your driver board.
Wiggle it, see if they come back on.
LTG : )

Hi. Thanks for the ideas.
By "clock board" are you referring to the 8 Driver PCB Assembly? I see its pinouts in the manual but nothing related to lighting apart from flashers. It does not appear that the clock's GI originates here.
As for PDB GI connectors, J119, J120, and J121 are all plugged into the OCD board and are no longer on the PDB. I reseated them all to test. No change.
It seems unlikely that *all* of the clock's circuit board SMD's are fried. Power must be interrupted. I would still like to use my manual to see just what wires carry GI power to the clock face, but I'm not finding it.

#10847 87 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Inside cover of the manual, under "General Illumination" - #3: Clock & Insert.
('Insert' is what the light board is called behind the translight, the backbox. So, the Clock, and part of the backbox.)

Ah! Thank you.
J121-3 and J120-3 if I'm reading that correctly. These are now connected to the OCD board. Guess I need to ask LED OCD again.

#10849 87 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Try reverting. Return it all to stock. (Move plugs back to PDB, and down by transformer, reconnect to original harness.) See what happens.

All right. I'll work on that. Thanks.
One more thing:
Looking in the manual for the PDB pinouts shows "Yellow, return GI to playfield" for both J120-3 and J121-3. That doesn't help me find wires carrying voltage to the clock's SMD's - or does it? I'm confused.

#10851 87 days ago

I wonder if the fact that I have all my bulbs removed from my backbox is mucking things up. I mean, apparently the backbox and the clock are tied together. Could I be disrupting the circuit by removing my bulbs? I'm waiting on new LED's from Comet. I will install the bulbs before reverting the connectors to the PDB. Tomorrow if I'm lucky.

#10853 87 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

No. Backbox and playfield are different.
Do you have power leaving GI string 3 from the power driver board ?
LTG : )

Which pinout from the PDB feeds GI string #3? Looking at page 3-32 in the manual now but not seeing it.
Closest I see is J114-3, Gray, +5VDC to J210-5, but J2xx is the CPU.

#10860 86 days ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I just want to say, that out of all of the groups I am and have been a part of this has by far been the most helpful and positive. You guys are all great ambassadors to the hobby.

I'm probably the biggest help hog up here right now, so, at the very least, I should second this sentiment. Thank you, nerdygrrl, Coyote, Manny, and LTG in particular. Y'all da' best!

#10861 86 days ago

Here is what I believe is the connector that supplies the clock power, excluding its movement.
The yellow/white on the far left measures 10VDC. Is this the yellow/white that originates at J121-3? Seems like plenty of juice for the clock LED's.
LED OCD remarked that it could be a polarity issue.
OCD board may be providing the wrong polarity.

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#10883 83 days ago
Quoted from Mickpat:

You installed the OCD board and then the LEDs on the clock no longer work?
The + and - pins to the LED lights on the clock need to be swapped. The reason the LCDs on the clock are not working is because of the polarity.

GI J120-9 and J120-3 (White/Yellow) Swap these two wires by removing the wire from the back of the modex connector. I used a small screwdriver to push the pin & wire out of the molex connector. Make sure you are swapping the correct pair. (Double check me and confirm it really is J120-9 and 3.)

Since it's normally AC, and is only DC with the OCD board, it won't stop an OEM board from working if it's ever plugged back in.

You're very clever. Raymond at LED OCD also told me it might be polarity.
I've never had any luck extracting a pin from a Molex connector, but I will try. LED OCD is hoping to fashion an adapter for me to try. Perhaps they will send it out next week.
Thanks for your input!

#10884 83 days ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I just fought with the stupid post lamps and the mini pf for the last three hours.
[quoted image]

Do you mean you struggled to pull the old bulbs from those sockets? I can relate! Those two are devilish! You can't grab hold of them to do any real pulling. Or perhaps you're just talking about the star-post lights.
Your shop job is amazing. Mad props to you for doing such a thorough job.

#10888 82 days ago
Quoted from Mickpat:

<snip>The reason the LCDs on the clock are not working is because of the polarity. GI J120-9 and J120-3 (White/Yellow) Swap these two wires by removing the wire from the back of the modex connector. I used a small screwdriver to push the pin & wire out of the molex connector. Make sure you are swapping the correct pair. (Double check me and confirm it really is J120-9 and 3.)
Since it's normally AC, and is only DC with the OCD board, it won't stop an OEM board from working if it's ever plugged back in.

Hi again. Please see the attached photos to help me confirm that J120-3 and J120-9 are indeed the wires to swap at the PDB connector.
I heard from Harold at LED OCD and his suggestion was to swap two pairs of wires at the clock board. This seemed impossible as I can't possibly swap them inside the housing. Do I instead swap them at the clock's connector to the wiring harness?
And again, has anyone else had a clock GI issue after installing a GI LED OCD board?