TZ Playfield Parts Availability?

I'm looking at a local TZ for sale and when I look over the playfield I see various parts that are oxidized or corroded - perhaps from exposure to moist air over time. Things like the blue, spring-steel ramp flaps, or the stainless ramps themselves, or various posts - they just look a bit "tired" or blotchy or in some cases show actual corrosion, and I wonder if I can tumble them back to life or if I will have to replace them if I end up buying the game. Are these parts available as new reproductions at reasonable prices? If so, from what source? I've checked Marco, Planetary, and PBL. All have a smattering of parts - plastics, for instance - but no stainless ramps.

Thanks in advance.

Thanks, Davi and Hawknole, for your input.
I'm a little worried about sorting such a complicated machine, but I'm going to give it a shot.
My games to this point have been modern Sterns, although I have done some ambitious modding on them and learned a fair amount about troubleshooting minor issues - thanks mostly to my friend LTG.
Are there reproduction Magna-Flip PF's available? The stock PF has been a bit abused on the right corner by blasts from the upper-right flipper toward the Camera. Is there some kind of Cliffy for that area? The board beneath the Magna-Flip PF has been abused, too. I'm going to need to learn how to cut/rivet replacement ramp flaps I guess. Not sure what gauge spring steel I will need. Do I cut them with tin snips? I have no sheering table, not surprisingly.
The first and most important thing I'm doing is scanning the Service Manual:
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2684/Bally_1993_Twilight_Zone_Operations_Manual_OCR_searchable.pdf
God bless IPDB!

Legs:

Please advise me on replacement legs. The stock legs are rusty. I can't polish them back to life.
The Service Manual in section 2-3 shows a cabinet parts diagram and C-10843 for the "metal leg assembly."
Looking on Pinball Life for this part number shows leg sets for System-Eleven games, not WPC89. Are these legs sufficiently tall? Standard length should be 28-1/2", correct? No mention in this listing of length.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-system-11-chrome-legs-set-of-4.html?Category_Code=

Has anyone installed this particular repro' mini playfield?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/36-50020-1

What are your thoughts? Junk? Worthwhile? This is the only one I could find. Are there originals kicking around?

Thank you, Mad Dog. Very helpful!

Flaky Upper-left Flipper: Please Help Me Troubleshoot

The upper-left flipper works fine in test but usually won't fire during gameplay. If it *does* fire, it does a little flutter. Like, it flips, then semi-flips immediately after, only it happens quickly enough to look like a spasm.

Former owner reseated the connectors in the Flip-tronics board in the head and swapped out the flipper opto for a leaf-switch version. Mind you, the "new" flipper switch is not simply a leaf switch as it accepts the connector that a flipper opto board would, etc. I would post a photo here but the machine isn't handy. It's kind of a hybrid thing. Perhaps it doesn't belong, but the flipper didn't work with the stock opto either. Will it be necessary to replace the Flip-tronics board in the head? If so, are they available and at what cost?

How else should I chase the problem? I have a multi-meter if that's called for.

Thanks in advance.

Lever-Guide Assembly Availability?

The Service Manual shows part #A-9174-4 for the lockdown receiver bar assembly. Marco is out of stock of A-9174-1. Is the "4" for widebody and the "1" for standard-body, or do wide- and standard body games use the same receiver?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/D-9174-1

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Thanks, Manny.
Pressing the left flipper button in test mode fires only the bottom left flipper.
No stage, no nothing from the upper.

Thanks, Manny, for the link. I will do some reading there.
Thanks, Scotty, for your suggestion regarding the coil itself. I don't have a replacement coil, but I can order one from PinballResource.
Today I will swap out the Fliptronics board for one that comes from another machine whose flippers are working properly. That will help me rule out my board if nothing else.

Hi.
I will have to photograph that oddball switch later. I've returned from the site where the game is, so I can't lay a hand on that switch for the time being. Sorry.

Thanks, Awesome1, for your suggestion.
Before I tried this, I borrowed a Fliptronics board from another TZ whose flippers work. No luck. Then I swapped out the funky switch for a proper flipper opto. Still no luck. Then I swapped the two optos, side to side, and, inexplicably, this solved the problem. Not surprisingly, I had lots of help from LTG. He even gave me some new 555's and a few 906's to start me on my cleaning/bulbing of the machine.
Thanks to all of you who listened and made suggestions. I appreciate it. On to the next issue!

V-Pad Kicker Accuracy Issue: Suggestions Sought

When I soft plunge for the SS on this game and the ball trickles into the kicker, it will rarely get launched properly up into the Camera shot. It bricks off whatever's close instead. Can this kicker be tuned up so that it launches the ball accurately? In the diagram below, you can see there are few parts to the mech. Where is its adjustability? I see none. Does it make sense to replace parts 1, 2, and 3? Will that tighten up the action of the armature?

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Source for replacement right-side flipper-return ballguide? Need only the stainless, not the whole assembly (A-16203-1).

Checked Marco's, PBR, PBL, and Planetary.
Any suggestions?

Thanks.

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How to Free Habit-trail From Right Ramp?

This is a legit disentanglement puzzle.
Can't free it!
Do I squeeze the habit-trail ends to slip the anchor out?
No flexibility there!

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No.
I got it.
Manual says "unhook" and separate.
Whew!
Now time to polish!

Holy shirt!
Mind BLOWN!
Amazing workmanship!
I thought I was working hard on my TZ, but yours is in another league!
Love it!

The switch-a-roo trick sorted my game. Try it!

ISO:
My twin gate assembly that straddles the shooter lanes has shabby flaps. They're rusted/ugly.
Marco has the left flap in black and the right flap in stainless. Not so helpful.
Does anyone out there know of a source for matching flaps? Does Mantis make them?

Also, how does this assembly come apart to access the flaps? I assume the hinge rod slides out, but how? It's confounding!

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Your assessment is sound: the assembly doesn't really come apart unless you sheer off the flared end of the hinge rod. You can then put the assembly back together with the original, shorted rod (not ideal) or fabricate a new rod (very challenging). So, not sure where that leaves me. Interesting that your assembly has two left gates. I think that's cool and should be retained.

How to Remove Flasher Stack in Back Left?

Manual says it can be "rotated" and freed without lifting the PF out of the cabinet. (Note #6)
Not even close.
Can't make room by freeing the gumball machine first as its anchor screws can't be accessed beneath the flasher stack. Maddening!
Screenshot (47) (resized).pngTZ.back.left (resized).jpg

As far as I know, Williams bodies are 1/8" shorter than Stern bodies. No idea on Gottlieb bodies. It's not easy to nest a wedge socket in a Williams body if your cap isn't large/dome'ish. But here's a little tip: a 44 socket actually sits a little lower, so it will afford you a wee-bit more clearance. Or you can just use a Stern body.

Interesting. You removed the beloved lamp above your upper PF? Mod addicts are fond of spending $170 for the lamp with the "Twilight Zone" cut-out. Not you! I would like to remove mine and polish it until it gleams. Then it will be welcome there.

Star-post lights in your upper sounds fly. I was thinking I would try that, too. Gotta order some from Comet, although they're expensive for what you get. I'm excited to personalize the lighting in this TZ. Right now all my time is going into repairs and shopping. I plan on a backboard decal and mirror blades, too.

This turned out to be exactly what I did. It irks me that the manual writer says I can "rotate" it and free it when that's clearly not true. It's helpful for me to have the back panel out, however, as now I can apply the decal easily. I've chose the one from Joey at PinballDecals.com. It basically mimics the front cabinet decal. It's fairly subtle I guess.

I pulled the wireform that feeds the gumball machine to polish it. I polished all the wireforms with bronze wool. Works well. No scratchy!

That gate assembly is diabolical. If you grind off the flared sides of the peened end, you can get the hinge pin out, and get it back in, but you'll have no way to re-flare it and it will likely just slide out with gameplay. My solution? Leave it alone until I can find a better replacement.

Gumball Modding: Ideas, Anyone?

I want to spruce up my gumball machine by loading it with some eye-catching spheres. The translite shows pinballs in there - which is fly! Has anyone stuffed full-size pinballs in there? I doesn't like more than one or two would actually fit. What are some common examples of gumball mods for the gumball machine? It doesn't look as though it can be loaded from above. Do I have the right? Must I pull the whole toy and access the tank/jar from underneath?

Low-profile switches? No grey hoods? Sounds promising! Share pics when you have them!

Pachinko, eh? Interesting. If I remember correctly, a Pachinko ball is about the size of the balls used in the lower PF on The Munsters - which is to say, *much* smaller than a pinball. Still, at least they're silver and gleam like pinballs.

I believe they still play Pachinko in Japan. Or is it China?

That's slick. I can see in just the one photo of your game how nice it is. Wow! Great example! Nice, straight, clear plastics on the main ramp! Cool back panel decal!

Looks like a nice game. Congrats on bringing her back online. The rose shooter rod looks nice, if not exactly theme-appropriate.

That looks super dope. Great job!
Are these switches available from Marco's or Pinball Life, or are they part of an exclusive kit made by Twister?

Thanks, Manny.
I'll reach out to Twister.

Easy-break Plastics?

Please list those playfield plastics on TZ that are particularly prone to breaking.

*Slings
*Flipper lanes
*Slot Machine
*Rocket Pad
*Magna-Flip signs

What else?

Is the large plastic above the Jackpot scoop/hole anything to be concerned about? It takes shots from the upper-left flipper, but that flipper's coil is fairly mild. Or how about the wedge-shaped piece just above the upper-right flipper?

Thanks.

Is this normal?

I took this plastic off the playfield as part of the shopping process.
Its spacers are mismatched, causing it to bend.
Is there a purpose to that, or should I replace the longer spacer with something that matches the shorter one?

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Is my center lamp board missing its flasher board or did some TZ's ship without them?
Are they still available?
If I don't put one in, will my inserts look dim above these vacant holes?
Just want to build a complete game.
Thanks.

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GI LED Color and Brightness:

Which do you prefer?

Cool White?
Sunlight?
Warm White?

2SMD or 1SMD?

Thanks.

Thanks, but why do you need the OCD board for the GI alone?

Hi.
How does this plunger come out of the bracket?
Weird cradle head seems pressed on.
Gum ball kicker.
Just resleeving all these kicker coils.
Thanks.

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Posts or star posts in upper zone of pops?

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Yes. This became clear once I took the bracket off the PF.
Thanks, all.

Thanks.
I wondered because the pop ring is hitting the rubber rings.
Now I'm stuck.

Thanks, Coyote, for weighing in.
My solution was to shave a few millimeters from each of two sides of the ring. I had a conflict at the ballguide, too.

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Back-panel decal to liven up the PF...

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Good eye.
Switched to 44 sockets cause they'e a tad shorter (for cap clearance) and I like the security of the bayonet.

Nice product for sure.
Just apply with care to beat air bubbles.
This is a gorgeous decal, but, sadly, you don't see most of it once installed.

Connector confusion:

Reconnecting various wiring harnesses after a topside tear-down.
Embarrassingly, I have three that are confusing me, all 2-pin and all with green and white leads.
On the right in the photo, the ramp harness's female 2-pin seems set to meet a 2-pin male, but what's going on with the 2-pin male on the left, ten inches away?
I *think* the left male is unrelated, but where is his mate?
He seems to be a subway switch just above the gumball kicker.

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You are very clever, Coyote!
Bingo!
Forgot to fish the left ramp's switch connector/harness down through the PF.
BIG problem, as I had no access with the ramps installed.
Enter: the lifesaver!
A length of coat hanger cut/bent into a wire fisher!
Crisis averted!

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Opto Confusion:

Left-magnet opto switch (#83) out.
Had to pull the ramp to inspect.
Orange lead disconnected.
Whew! Problem solved!
Not so fast...
After the solder repair, the switch is still open in test (should be closed until beam is broken).
Meter reads 2V at working optos elsewhere on PF, but 29V at #83.
29V???? WTF?
Photo shows left- and right opto connectors.
All looks Kosher but clearly is not.
Ideas?
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LED shade of white for inserts:

What do you prefer?

Warm White?
Natural/Cool White?

All 1SMD?

I believe he meant the yellow target to the left of the Player Piano Jackpot hole/scoop opposite the upper-left flipper. The only source I know of for the "reinforced" target is The Pinball Resource. I installed one at the Slot Machine scoop and one beside the pops that takes the most punishment. I s'pose I should have put one by the Player Piano but I did not. They cost about $9 each and come with the diode already soldered in place. The soldering involved to swap out a target is fairly simple. It's good practice for basic soldering technique. Hard to screw it up.

Hi, NG. Thanks for your help. I did check and recheck the voltage at the switch and couldn't believe it read 29V when it should read just 2V. I will replace the opto and see where we are. I will have to ask LTG for help reading diagrams if I hope to find the associated resistor and just where the power for that switch leaves the PCB - or even *which* PCB. Do you *not* recommend just replacing the opto and seeing what happens?

Hi again, NG. Got it. A matter of taste. Sifting through this thread turns up *many* posts about shades of white - in GI and inserts - as wells as color matching inserts, etc. My initial impression of the stock lighting is, gosh, this is so yellow/dirty/dim! I just have the urge to clean everything, to brighten it up somehow - although I already have cleaned all the lenses of the stock bulbs!
I'm going to try the GI OCD board to start with and natural/cool 2SMD frosted bulbs from Comet. I may break down and buy the insert OCD board later, but for now I will tolerate the yellow/dirty/dim incandescents. I foresee using cool white 1SMD clear for the clear inserts and warm white 1SMD clear for red/orange/amber inserts - either with the OCD board or without it. Not sure what I would use in backbox. Perhaps 1SMD Sunlight. I like the idea of the OCD board as I like the freedom to use whatever LED/SMD I care to in any spot on the PF or for any insert - the way I can on a modern pin. I just wish they weren't so expensive. This game is turning out to be a bit of money pit and I still haven't ponied up for the color DMD!

This appears to be the animal.
The upper connectors are optos. The opto wiring harness begins here and snakes to all the optos - trough, lock, upper PF, magnets, etc.
How can the board supply the proper voltage to all of them *except* switch #83? The board doesn't supply the optos individually, does it?
Each opto has a simple PCB on it. Perhaps that's faulty on #83. Perhaps replacing the opto will sort it out.
At least we know a replacement board is available:
https://www.pinballlife.com/10-opto-replacement-board-for-twilight-zone-a-16807.html
Manual shows J4-3 feeds switch #83.
Resistors servicing that connector look good.
Red-black-red-gold. Is that 40ohm?
Can these be tested on the board?
I would rather not desolder one to test it.
Not sure which corresponds to J4-3 though.
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Got it.
12V from the board. Impossible to get 29V from it unless a short is involved.
I'm embarrassed to say that today's reading at the switch is 13V. Doubt it changed. More likely I misused the meter. Including a photo here for you to confirm meter setting and probe use. 20V DC is the setting.
The upper PF's opto switch reads 6.5V and the right magnet's opto not even 2V.
So, clearly things are amiss. Oddly, all the other opto switches work in test, despite the goofy voltages.
Note: I probably don't need to point this out, but for the record I am a rank amateur repair tech with no experience on machines of this vintage.

Also, in single-switch test for #83 the wires are described in colors that do NOT match the leads to this switch. They are grey and orange/black. These same colors feed the other optos, too.
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Oh. Got it. Thanks.

Also very helpful. Thanks!

No glow on #83 before, but I'm happy to report that I installed a new opto set from Pinball Life today and the switch is working again. Whew!
Thanks for putting up with all my photo-laden posts. I was some worried there! I will check my voltages tomorrow - from the black side only!

LED ColorDMD, anyone?

I know LCD ColorDMD's are very common in TZ, but are there listmembers here who have/prefer the LED version?

Sadly, I can't find any clips of TZ's LED ColorDMD on YouTube to compare. Indeed it's hard to find any clips at all of LED ColorDMD's, but I did find one of TFTC and it looked bright/dope.

Thanks.

No Upper PF Magnet Action.

"Magnet Test" shows flipper switches closing with each flipper-button press, but no magnet pulses to affect test ball.
Spiral magnets work fine.
Thought it might be a fuse but don't see any dedicated to the magnets in the fuse list.
And yes, the upper PF connectors are connected, including the thick branch for the magnets.
Ideas?
Thanks.

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Thanks, Awesome.
That was helpful.
Looks great!

I've never seen it work, frankly.
I played one test game when I bought the pin and didn't reach the upper PF.
I immediately started my shop job, including pulling the upper PF, when I got it home.

Yes, as I wrote, the "Spiral" magnets work fine.

Hmm.
Not yet.
I will get back to you.

Source for used, WPC89 coin doors, anyone?

My coin door and frame look awful. Too much rust/corrosion and the door doesn't close smoothly. I don't want to take it all apart and refinish it. Too much work, too much expense. I would rather find a used donor door and frame. Any ideas where I should look? I wish there were a bone yard I could visit.
This photo is *not* my door!

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Hi.
Pulled my upper PF in my effort to troubleshoot the magnets.
Hoping to find something obvious under here but, alas, no such luck.
What are the odds that the current disruption is here and not farther up stream?
How does one intelligently troubleshoot this PF?
Do I raise the main PF, reconnect the upper's harness, and then test voltage at the connector closest to each magnet? That will be awkward for sure.
The other issue is the probes on my meter.
They are shielded almost to the tips.
I will need to stuff them into the female 6-pin molex to measure the voltage.
Last photo below shows the connector for magnet portion upper PF's harness.
Not sure how much success I will have testing the mate with my probes.
Might have to fashion a test-specific connector with short leads.
I'm a bit lost here.
Ideas?

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Hi, Gord.
Thanks for the suggestion.
None of my switches is out, so I don't suspect a fried U-20. I could be wrong, of course.

3-6 in service manual shows Solenoids #25 and 26 (left and right upper PF magnets) are powered by the DC Motor Control board, which sits below the back right corner of the main PF.
Mine appears fine. Am I looking for voltage at J124, 1 and 2? And *what* voltage?

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Thanks.
My mistake.
Solenoids 25 and 26 are powered by the Power Driver Board!
I misread the diagram.

Magnets Continued...

Can I safely probe this connector during the solenoid test (25, 26) from the back?
1 and 2 feed the upper PF magnets.

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Thanks for your suggestions.
Before I reflow any solder, I would like to check voltage at the upper PF's harness.
Pictured is the main harness's connector that supplies the upper's harness.
Solenoid wiring diagram shows power to 25 & 26 (left & right upper PF magnets) through blue/red and blue/brown, both of which I see at the connector.
Which wire here is common? Both of the lower magnets appear to have purple leads so I will assume purple is common in all cases.

Also, how does one best use solenoid test mode to check voltage? In solenoid test, you can cycle through "Running," "Repeat," and "Stopped." Do I leave it on "Running" and expect a constant voltage? And what voltage would that be? 50VDC? Can I safely test holding my probes as pictured with the game in solenoid test mode? I'm assuming 50VDC is fairly dangerous.
Addendum:
Decided not to risk handling the probes during test and fashioned a stand-in using a modified Z-connector and wire clips.

Thanks.

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Test Results:

I started by measuring the voltage at the connectors for the two magnets I know are working. Plugged my red probe into the connector's power lead and the common probe to the cabinet's ground braid. Set the meter to 200VDC.

Nada for both of the working magnets, so clearly my test arrangement is flawed. I'm now stuck. Also tried again with meter set to 20VDC.

Is the problem that I'm testing a disconnected connector? Must I leave it connected and test it from the back? I can't get my test probes in there and I'm spooked about doing any digging there during a magnet pulse.

Discouraging Development:

Voltage test at the driver board in "Magnet Test" shows @80V to each of the working left- and right magnets, but nothing to either the upper PF magnets.

What would cause this?

Am I overlooking something simple? A blown fuse comes to mind, but I see no mention of magnets in the fuse guide in the manual. All fuses on the driver board are fine.

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My apologies - to you, to everyone - but I have toiled over this game, "shopping" it to a fairly high standard over the last month, and I was hoping that I'd reached the finish line and could finally play the thing. I just wanted it realize its potential, so I tore it down and committed myself to sorting it out, truly. I didn't pay a lot for it but it needed a lot of attention. Along the way I have learned a lot, but, as I wrote earlier, am I a rank amateur tech and this game has obviously challenged me consistently. Troubleshooting the upper PF magnets clumsily is just one of what feel like dozens of hurdles, but I'm hanging in there. If I'm testing your patience, I'm sorry. I realize these threads shouldn't be dominated by the postings of a single user, but you are my best source for guidance and, again, I just wanted to play the game after weeks of work. I will try this last suggestion to the letter and see where I end up. Thank you!

Testing both violet ("power") leads at the connector to the upper PF's harness reveals c. 70V, so that's encouraging.
The continuity test on the driver wires of the working magnets reveals no beep but does show a pulse of c. 1.5V when magnet pulses in Magnet Test. The same test on the upper PF driver wires shows no continuity for pulses in solenoid test set on "Repeat."
Driver wires can be traced to the 8 high-power driver board beneath the PF.
If there are driver issues, do they originate at this board or on the main driver board?
I assume there are things to learn with the meter and this board.
A good samaritan nearby will let me test my A-16116 board in his TZ. If his magnets don't work with my board, I'll have my culprit.
Thankfully, these boards are for sale new.

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Smart idea!
Harvest two pristine magnets from mini-PF!
That never occurred to me, so I took out the cores and dressed/polished them.

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Magnets Cont'd:

No continuity beep with common probe connected to cabinet ground braid and red probe used to probe blue/red and blue/brown at the back of the connector - both at the driver board or the high-power board.
It seems the power driver board isn't sending a signal to the high-power board in test or during game play. Why? Does the driver board get that signal from the CPU? During game play, I s'pose it could come from the Fliptronics board, but during test the Fliptronics boards isn't involved, correct? That command to drive the magnets should come from the CPU and be carried to the driver board via the ribbon cable, no? I know I have continuity from the driver board to the mini-PF harness for both blue/red and blue/brown, so I don't suspect a wiring problem. That leaves the CPU (a new Rottendog, so that's unlikely), the ribbon cables (do these ever fail?), or the power driver board. Any ideas?
Oh, and I forgot to mention that I installed my high-power driver board in another TZ and the magnets on that machine still worked fine, so we know it's not that board.

Thanks.
I have no grinder/polisher.
I put the core in a vice and dressed the top with a bastard-cut file until it was flat/true, then I took it out of the vice, flipped it upside-down, and pushed it back and forth *many* times over a sheet of sand paper laid on a flat plank. I used progressively finer sandpaper until I reached 1K grit. Lastly, I polished it by hand with Brasso.

Holy shirt!
That thing is stunning!
Congrats!
The PF looks dreamy!
Oh, and where did you get those great apron cards? I want a set.

Thanks for the suggestion. I did check continuity between the PDB and the 8-high power driver board and between the 8-high board and the mini-PF. All good.

I have had the very good fortune to work with LTG on this and he graciously allowed me to install, individually, the following parts/boards from my game in his game:

1. Fliptronics board
2. 8-high power driver board
3. CPU
4. Power driver board
5. Ribbon cables

In all cases, LTG's TZ worked fine, including the mini-PF magnets, with my parts, so I'm back to square-one.
To be honest, I'm not even back to square-one; after returning the Fliptronics board to my game, my flipper buttons aren't working. The flipper coils fire in test, but the machine doesn't respond to the pressing of the flipper buttons, in test or game play. All connectors appear to be seated properly and the fuses are good.

Suggestions?

Thanks.

Thanks for your help.
Flipper buttons fail in test.
I believe connectors J905 and J906 on the Fliptronics main board link to the opto switches. Both are plugged in properly, as are the connectors on the opto switches.

Latest/Best Game ROM?

My machine was made in 5/25/93 and is running the REV L-2 ROMset.
IPDB shows revisions up to REV L-5.
Is there a benefit to running the later revisions?
Is there any chance that my magnet woes are attributable to my ROMset?
Were there ever any versions that omitted the mini-PF magnets?
I know it's a long shot.
My game also has a Rottendog CPU. Why would Rottendog load an old ROMset?

80EA143E-38B2-4847-B416-191CCE14C8C2 (resized).jpeg

Hi.
I have 12V at each of the flipper opto switches.
Is this a switch-matrix error?
Is it a ribbon cable?

Not sure if it matters, but I have 0V at the #7 pin on the left opto connector. I do have 12V at #6 though.

00AF9AC6-5937-4DAD-B64A-66836A05A4C3 (resized).jpeg

3E696988-28C3-4809-9D52-A4A7C4AD73D6 (resized).jpeg

Hi.
Yes to all except the last; I did *not* install my flipper opto's in Lloyds game.

Broken. True. But seated.

Are you telling me I can safely short #1 to ground?
I worry that I will short two pins and damage the board.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm unable to even start a game.
Start button not responsive.
Now I'm wondering if the coin door interface board is unhappy.
I know I have 12V at J2-4.
Did I disrupt ground by pulling this old bill validator?

703B2C00-BFDB-4C51-9DD3-1BF45C772B96 (resized).jpeg

Hi.
Sorry for the delayed response.
I tried shorting J905-1 to ground and the flipper did NOT fire.
All switches are working, excluding the flipper optos.
Mini-PF magnets still down.

Thanks for the suggestion. Still no flippers.

Awesome work!
That PF cleaned up beautifully!!
Your homey is gonna be jazzed!

Dead Sockets:

Lamps at upper corners on my "Door" board aren't working. I know the sockets are fine as I can rotate them around the board to check them.
I was told to reflow the solder at the connector, which I have now done.
Multimeter reads 1.5V at working sockets and 0V at the corners.
How do I revive this pair?

7DDA0D95-BFFD-43E0-AD2F-1BEFC2A8DEB8 (resized).jpegC89A42A1-4A35-43D4-BEC2-D16E4A292F83 (resized).jpegF8B1F101-A8AD-4BF3-8701-E313929187A2 (resized).jpeg

Measured at the pads.
Having the same issue with this board.
I reflowed solder at these pins, too, but the procedure makes me nervous as each solder point is perilously close to its neighbor. Risk of shorting seems high.
Also, voltage test on the connector shows a variety of voltages, but there *is* voltage at each/every pin for both of the problem boards.
518D4848-FB9B-4DF8-8795-6A372F910255 (resized).jpegADB295B4-1BDB-4B36-B1DE-791B25721A32 (resized).jpeg

Start button sorted. Just poorly seated in socket and not actuating when pressed.
Sorry not to mention that.
Flipper buttons don't register in test.
Flipper coils will fire in solenoid- and flipper tests.

Lead.

Continuity between pin and pad in all three cases.

Not sure as my test method is apparently flawed.
Meter set to 2Kohms resistance, then to 200ohms. Black probe to cathode, red to anode. No reading.

7EA01BDD-125C-40DC-9A30-F76CBD7CFBCF (resized).jpeg

No jump in J905 fires a flipper.
Opto switches cleaned and swapped.

Thanks.
Diodes all have approximately identical readings.

Hi, Gord. Thanks for your input.
I already flowed solder at the base of each pin, adding a tiny amount in each case. I suppose I could do it again but this time *not* add more. I don't really know what more there could be to reflowing solder at connector pins. I hold the iron tip to the solder on one side of the pin and my piece of solder wire on the other. The solder flows, a second or two later my solder flows, I remove my solder and the iron, the solder cools. What else is there?

Developments:

Magnets:
I brought my mini-PF to Lloyd's and connected it to the harness in his game. Switches, opto, and lamps: yes. Magnets: no. Does anything in this photo jump out at you? I have continuity from the main magnet connector to each magnet connector (violet and violet/white). Remember, my Spiral magnets work, and I already tested my 8-high power driver- and power-driver boards in Lloyd's machine. Is it a grounding issue? I assume that if the the mini-PF weren't grounded properly the switches, opto, and lamps wouldn't be working - but they *did* work in my test swap. It still seems so unlikely that *both* magnets have somehow failed. I mean, I would expect a magnet to fail about as often as a standard coil - which is to say rarely if ever.

Lamps:
I brought my ailing lamp boards to Lloyd's and they work fine in his machine. I guess I have to clean my connectors somehow.

Flippers:
I borrowed Lloyd's Fliptronics board and installed it in my game. Flippers worked normally. I then put my own board back and they did not. Lloyd's inspection of my board pointed to the bridge rectifier - which he then graciously replaced - but it didn't revive the board.

Thoughts?

Thanks.
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