(Topic ID: 63352)
Linked Games
Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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North Port, FL
Quoted from Manny65:That bracket assembly is A-16326 and just the bracket itself is 01-11215 - I took a quick look online across the various pinball suppliers world wide but unfortunately no luck.
Might be worth placing a wanted ad in the Marketplace. Good luck
Thank you sir, will do
5 months later
Took just over 6 months to get from boxes of parts to finished TZ, plays great, working on tweaking a personal PinSound mix, may release a pure mix in a little while
49047A8D-DF9A-40B3-98E7-F320F2E38FB7 (resized).jpeg5527ECA8-CD3C-4334-833C-FF8A026DF182 (resized).jpeg6AE6BE71-B440-4F6B-A2E6-D954D581D01A (resized).jpeg7F3C70C7-A582-41B2-8A47-BA79D65EB1F3 (resized).jpegFA949642-51F5-4A97-AB06-BC69418E0191 (resized).jpeg
E90179CA-7685-4F38-9AEC-68DB9DD16875 (resized).jpeg498BA5C8-2B9A-4B7B-AB64-6C5EE5711BA3 (resized).jpeg3B3D2C1E-D970-4D90-8EA9-4D04E0B5C2DA (resized).jpegQuoted from Manny65:Great job hawknole - what's the protective plastic on the cabinet decals (last pic)? Did it come on the decals (are they radcals??) or is this something you've applied to protect the artwork while working on the machine?
Thanks, they are indeed radcals, I left the protective layer on as long as I could.
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:TZ Playfield Parts Availability?
I'm looking at a local TZ for sale and when I look over the playfield I see various parts that are oxidized or corroded - perhaps from exposure to moist air over time. Things like the blue, spring-steel ramp flaps, or the stainless ramps themselves, or various posts - they just look a bit "tired" or blotchy or in some cases show actual corrosion, and I wonder if I can tumble them back to life or if I will have to replace them if I end up buying the game. Are these parts available as new reproductions at reasonable prices? If so, from what source? I've checked Marco, Planetary, and PBL. All have a smattering of parts - plastics, for instance - but no stainless ramps.
Thanks in advance.
You can replace the blue steel flaps from Pinball Resource, cut your own, rivet in. The stainless can be tumbled and/or regrained, Flitz as a finisher. The bigger issue is weldments on the ramps & metals underneath, Mantis makes some.
Quoted from Manny65:hawknole posted his resto the other day that has radcals on it and they looked great https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/207#post-6306795
I like the radcals, 3rd set I installed during restores. You have to be careful with positioning, I end up with a small space at the bottom lip of the cabinet, no big deal because I paint black but they are much easier to install than normal decals.
As for PinSound, the DCS Granner mix is out there and different, the Re-orchestration has a higher fidelity. If you want stereo then wiring & speakers will need to be changed.
Quoted from TigerLaw:Do they have a guide of some kind for the changes needed for stereo sound and is it worth doing for TZ? How good is the re-orchestration?
This is all up to you, you have to weigh the cost. One person will tell you there is a huge difference with upgraded PinSound and another will say it is not worth it. If your original sound board dies it is a no brainer for me. The original sound boards do fetch a good dollar if still working. Not sure what is going on with that other sound board “kit” but wouldn’t mind checking it out. The PinSound build quality is top notch, they make nice hardware.
PinSound sells 2.1 speaker wiring & updated speakers but you can get speakers anywhere, I think they should be 4 ohm, don’t quote me. Flipper Fidelity & Pinball Pro sell stereo speaker upgrades as well. The holes and mounting can be a pain as you need to reconfigure the speaker panel and cut a bigger hole on the one side & worry about the right size speakers, etc. If you decide to go the upgrade route, I would suggest a PinSound Plus board, not the NEO and to keep your mono setup as it is decent and just go with an alternate mix. I prefer the DCS Granner mix & actually have a personal mix I am working on. The re-orchestration is in stereo, but again, I would not jump to all that, incremental steps. To make it even more confusing you may be able to download the mixes from the PinSound website and listen to the differences, this would take hours but is possible.
Quoted from Mickpat:Super impressive!
Thanks Mick
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Source for replacement right-side flipper-return ballguide? Need only the stainless, not the whole assembly (A-16203-1).
Checked Marco's, PBR, PBL, and Planetary.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
[quoted image]
Check with Cliff @ passionforpinball.com aka Cliffy
Took some closer up pics today…
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Quoted from embryon:Hi guys. I'm wanting to make a mod and use a standard sized led and lamp socket that I can attach/connect to 'the power ' controlled lamp.
I simply tried connecting and found the led on the power seems dimmer and the connected led flickers a little but seems fully lit but pretty much looks like it's always on. I then tried soldering a N4004 diode onto the second lamp socket but same result.
Am I trying to achieve the unachievable or is there something I'm missing in my attempts?
Pls note the lamp socket I'm using is not identical to the one I'm tapping off but does work when I've connected to the gi string so figure it should be OK. But someone might tell me I'm wrong.
This is achievable, double check the diode orientation, should be opposite of a switch.
1 month later
Quoted from noitbe1:Thanks for sharing. Do you know then the best way to improve a bit the original sounds and musics? I guess the only option is to upgrade the speaker because original sounds are not available to be reuse with pinsound. Right ?
Original sounds are available for PinSound, however, as stated above, the Granner mix is better, start with that & if you want to make the Serling callouts better they can be ‘remastered’ via Audacity tools.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Ill start there, thanks, Lloyd!
And check the switch matrix that is common with that gate solenoid
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Thanks, Dave!
Brain isnt working as well.
Good to see you are back at it Art
6 months later
Quoted from ray-dude:Folks, I'm making progress on my revival of my TZ that was in storage for 20 years. Some quick questions here in case folks have advice they can share (alas, search didn't help):
(1) My magnet cores are pretty weathered, so I was looking to replace. Alas, the big bolt on the bottom is really caked on (and it looks like a huge amount of locktite under the cruft). Any suggestions/tricks for loosening the big nuts so I can remove the old cores? (trying not to be too aggressive in forcing it)
(2) I ordered the Ingo TZ clock board (https://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html ) back in October. Every month or two I send a note checking in and get a polite reply re supply chain issues, etc. which I completely understand. Has anyone ordered one of these recently that has received it? I'm coming up on the 6 month deadline to get a refund through PayPal. In case I need to go to Plan B, what is the favorite clock PCB that is purchasable today?
(3) In a similar vein, I have the Pinbits gumball lamp kit on order (https://pinbits2.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_2&products_id=13 ). I'm seeing various reports of pinbits having gone dark (then back then dark). Can anyone comment on whether Pinbits is actively fulfilling orders? Again, if I need a Plan B, any recommendations for favorite available lighting kits for the gumball machine?
(4) Lastly, the large carriage bolts that support the playfield have rusted out, so time to replace. I'm having a hard time finding a reference that has generic parts like this enumerated for this era pin. Most promising thing I've found so far is https://www.pinballlife.com/38-16-x-1-14-ribbed-neck-playfield-support-carriage-bolt.html Does anyone have a reference for which size bolt/part number is needed for a TZ? Worst case I'll pull mine and grind them down and paint them, but I prefer to replace if I can.
Appreciate the HUGE amount of help I've received here, for the 100s of times search did bring up an answer
(3) - I used a Comet matrix strip attached to the lid & just hooked it to GI in that back corner. So a matrix bulb with an extra lead & probably need a matrix extension and a maybe a dimmer if you want.
Quoted from jid:Does anyone know of a source for a full apron (aka Wizmods) for a TZ? I realize I’m like 29 years late to the game but that’s one of the 2 areas I want to improve on my game. And a topper. So suggestions beyond EBay would be greatly appreciated!
Current condition is this:
[quoted image]
Oversized cards/decals trim up the TZ apron just fine IMO
9F679C5C-89ED-4B4E-B8BA-1E60DD39874F (resized).jpegI make these, checking interest as I have a limited supply. I could make a few more sets. They are gloss laminated vinyl decals on hard backing. The manufacture process does occasionally leave slight imperfections around the edge, usually not noticeable. PM if interested.
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Quoted from sandro:Had a bit of a scare with my TZ tonight (though the pf had a paint chip). But it did highlight the fact that the inserts are starting to lift slightly (not affecting the ball path), and I've been meaning to get a 3rd magnet mod done to the machine. I happen to have a spare NOS playfield I picked up way back in the 90s. I had planned to have it drilled and cleared, but I think it's developed a slight bow near the gumball cutout. It box is probably about 2mm, enough to be visible while sighting down the top edge of the playfield. Otherwise, I think the spare pf is in great shape. Is that sort of thing repairable?
I know I could just pick up one of Mirco's playfields already setup for the third magnet, but I worry about all the negative stuff I hear about his fields.
I'm pretty sure I don't want to pull my existing playfield and send it out, since I'm not sure on my ability to pull of a full swap, and if I do it, I think it'd be easier to transfer parts from one playfield straight to another.
This is repairable. I heard Nero on here is doing good repair & clear work, won’t be cheap.
Quoted from monkfe:you mean Capt Neo?....yes good work...not cheap....but what is these days...
Yes, sorry, Capt Neo, thanks for the translation 
1 week later
Quoted from BadBrad97:I do have the 2 boards. What is weird is that there are 2 connectors that are not connected to anything. One is a Orange with red (and gray) and one is orange with blue (with gray). The manual says that orange and red is the switch for the upper magnet. Could it be as simple as connecting optos to these? I have the correct connectors.
Here is the picture.[quoted image]
Yes, those are opto plugs. Optos tell the magnets to engage. Look for similar 2 wire plugs that are plugged in to see if two are mixed up then change them all.
1 month later
Finally finished my TZ PinSound mix. I worked on it on & off since early last year. Already got some feedback from the PinSound guys & made some changes. I also have a friend running in his. If someone has a PinSound audio board & wants to give it a try before I release publicly I would be happy to share with a couple folks for evaluation.
Granner DCS is the base and is great for a standard pure mix. I added TZ show music for main gameplay & then classic rock for some of the deeper music. Pink Floyd seemed to work well in spots and also includes Allman Brothers, Jeff Beck, Chuck Berry, etc. Send me a PM if interested in Beta. If no takers it will just go public soon, thanks.
3 months later
Quoted from LTG:Only on a few sample games. You aren't missing it.
LTG : )
I did a custom with a friend, sorry only a one off.
TZ (resized).jpg
Quoted from jchristian11:Where’s the lamp?
Flex Head behind there, looks like the ball hit it and twisted the light a little. I guess that was the challenge with that prototype plastic piece, the ball would break the plastic.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Wow, what is the usual problem?
+1 same
Added 19 months ago:EDIT: after looking back at my +1 I am confused what I meant. Pinball Life has those clock boards & that work fine.
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