(Topic ID: 63352)
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Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
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Quoted from gunstarhero:Welcome. You unlock this door with the key of imagination... oh and money. So damn much money.
Thank you
Yes indeed!
Quoted from JWJr:That's some serious side decal sun fade there.
It sure is some sun fade. I can’t complain knowing the fine deal I received
Quoted from JWJr:You are correct. Pic now uploaded.
Nice! We have similar taste in game play it seems
3 weeks later
Quoted from Tranquilize:It is, but you really need to be careful removing the rom without a rom tool. Lift each side 1mm (1/16 inch?? ) at a time. Be careful toward the end as it will start to come out easier. If you lift one side to much compared to the other, you'll bend all the pins. You'll likely bend them a little, but it's easy to bend them back. Too much pressure on one side, and you can bend them so much that they'll break as you try to bend them back. Patience is key.
I use a small flathead screwdriver to lift either side, but I've heard others argue against that method. I've swapped many roms without an issue.
Thank you very much! I will give it go.
Quoted from Durzel:Echoing this. I changed the ROMs in my TAF, and am generally careful, but I still managed to bend the pins on 2 of the 3 chips I removed, and one pin actually came off in my hand as I put the chip down.
Definitely go with the chip puller.
Thanks! Where can I buy a chip puller?
Quoted from ramegoom:NOTE: When you remove the chip, pay attention to the notch on one end of the chip. INSERT THE NEW CHIP IN THE SAME EXACT WAY.
Since the chip is concentric, you can easily put it in backwards, which will result in smoking the chip and permanent damage.
Always note where that notch is, and insert the new chip with the notch on the same side. Normally, the silk screening on the PC board shows the direction of that notch. Also, the socket that the chip is inserted into will have its own notch on one end only. And usually all other socketed chips lie on the PC board in the same direction with notches all on the same ends.
Read the above twice so you understand that doing it wrong will destroy the new chip.
Were you at the showdown last weekend? My wife and I flew in from Ohio to attend
Quoted from gjm7777:Chip pullers can be a total pain and most of the time the cheap ones will result in bent or broken rom pins.
IF you decide to go small screwdriver route be very careful not to put the head of the screwdriver in too deep, you will end up scratching, damaging or ruining traces.
Maybe I’ll leave it in. I wanted to swap ROMs between my two TZ because I am selling one of them. I can’t the one with 9.5H update to preform score save and for some reason it drives me nuts lol
Ok..... So now that I have the insight on how important it is to go very very slow and controlled, I think I’ll give a try. I have a couple other repairs I want make first before I do it. I’ll let ya know how it goes when I do it. Thanks for all the help. It is very much appreciated
Quoted from gunstarhero:Yup, that’s an older style rocket mod. Pretty common as far as TZ mods go.
Cool... curious. Hadn’t seen one around here
Quoted from Meloyelo51:Not sure if you burn your own or not, but I can do B/W roms. Also like said above...I find the screwdriver method better than the chip pullers.
Here's a video I did on my JP...about 1:29 shows actual chip removal but it went quicker than I remember lol.
Just make sure to keep the screwdriver shaft more level and do the work with twisting side to side working your way down the chip. Bigger chips like tz may help to get it started and then switch to the other side.
Thanks Matt!
1 week later
Quoted from Coyote:Likely your flipper optos need to be cleaned. Check in switch test and see what the flipper optos (NOT 'EOS') report.
Thanks Coyote! Such an easy fix!
1 week later
Quoted from pzy:It screws into the back top right corner of the clock:
[quoted image]
Thanks pzy!
I’m getting EOS errors on all Four flippers. I have replaced one broken EOS switch and cleaned them. Checked for loose or unattached wires. All looks good.
Flippers are fully working. Anything I should else I should give attention to? I’m new at repairing pins and would appreciate some feedback. Thanks
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Ok first is the pin new? Check to make sure the EOS switches are normally not connecting. The flipper mechanism, when extended should close the EOS, but that’s the only time. If I’m not mistaken, I’ve also gotten this error when the flipper buttons themselves are triggering the flipper switch
Yes it is new to me. None of the switches are touching unless the flipper is engaged
Quoted from merccat:What do they show in the switch test? Are they showing on or off when at rest? Is there a change of state when you move the flipper mech?
I’ll check for that this evening. Thanks
Quoted from merccat:What do they show in the switch test? Are they showing on or off when at rest? Is there a change of state when you move the flipper mech?
Not sure what you are referring to!? I don’t see a switch test as option
Quoted from merccat:What do they show in the switch test? Are they showing on or off when at rest? Is there a change of state when you move the flipper mech?
Okay I figured it out! Ha...... So, at rest it reads “open”
Quoted from Coyote:And do they close (activate) when you hit the flipper buttons?
On EOS phase they do NOT indicate close when I hit the flippers
Quoted from Coyote:They're not direct, but also not on the matrix. These optos are driven by the Fliptronics 2 board. Each switch should haven a orange (common) and an Blk/? wire leading to them. I would start with the plug on the fliptronics board, and work your way down. Likely it's the common (orange wire) broken. Check the EOS connection for the Upper Right flipper - I believe that is the first switch the orange wire is joined to.
I found this unplugged. Guess previous owner was working on something and didn’t plug it back in. It has no EOS errors now. Thanks for your help guys!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I just bought one from Marco, along with an additional replacement sensor
I believe I saw that on Marco. Was it $68 or something like that?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Looks like yes. The coil alone was $20
I think
Thanks I may have to buy the the sensor and all. Didn’t want to because I already have the sensor. Guess I’ll have a back up
2 weeks later
6 months later
Quoted from drummermike:Those mini playfield post lights are great!
I agree! It was a selling point for me. I bought from Comet pinball
Quoted from Durzel:Nice. Did you put lights under all the star posts?
Yes under all star posts on mini playfield. Lightens it up quite well. The link is above LOL
Quoted from monkfe:where to get that clock face?
I made it. I didn’t like the zodiac stuff. Just not my thing(creepy stuff) So I was thinking the spirals would look good on it. I have some other cool ideas I haven’t made yet.
Quoted from Manny65:Did you use the cool white (natural) or sunlight?
I used the Cometpinball.com Twilight zone Kit. It has some different whites in it. The price is hefty because TZ has so many bulbs
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:With all due respect, what’s creepy about the zodiac? Clock face looks great BTW
Pagans and witches use them to foretell things. Not going to condone it.
Quoted from Coyote:Ebay. Search for "Coin Mech" and you'll get lots of hits. You want the smaller, 3.5" ones. (That search will come up with a lot of other vending units too..)
CF6706A0-EBBF-4E51-B14A-F8E0146D83A7.gifQuoted from Giulio:Hi there, how did you connect these lighted post under the miniplayfield ? Super beatiful! Congratulations!
Thank you! I connected them all to a couple 3 Way splitters and a set of alligator clips and attached to a GI.
Tucked wiring under the mini playfield. I had to remove mini playfield to put other LEDs in but you do not need to remove it for the assembly of the star post lights only.
Quoted from Giulio:Hi there, how did you connect these lighted post under the miniplayfield ? Super beatiful! Congratulations!
74012A9D-B8E4-4A78-B398-F16446EA2532 (resized).pngQuoted from monkfe:Gotta get those low profile switches now...
Do you have low profile switches? I’ve never seen them. Please show if you have them. Thanks in advance
Quoted from monkfe:They look like this ...reach out to twister I purchased them from him
[quoted image]
Wow! Looks nice and clean. Thanks! Nice Example if a modern updated TZ
Quoted from Coyote:Likely there are small tiny little divots in the magnet's core, and if the ball sits just right, when the magnet lets go, there isn't enough gravity to break it free. Then the ball search comes, and the magnet pulses, and causes the ball to jerk free.
First, get new balls.
Then, take your magnet cores out, sand them flat, and re-assemble.
Also, check your game's pitch. You likely have it a little too light - i.e. not steep.Balls will get captured when:
1. In Spiral Mode: Each magnet will catch the ball once (if 3-magnets installed), or the right will catch it twice and the right once (2-magnets).
2. Any multiball with the Powerball out.
3. Multiball start, IF the game knows the Powerball is in the gumball machine, and you are starting mutiball with one or less balls in lock.
4. Anytime a Spiral Award is lit and you make a spiral shot.
5. The right one will catch the ball if Camera Award is lit, if Town Square Madness is lit, or if you need to Relight the Jackpot during normal multiball.
6. The left one will catch the ball if the Jackpot (Piano) is lit.You have a bad eddy sensor.
FlippinJimmy this guy ^^^knows his stuff
Quoted from RussMyers:Can someone help me? Working on a TZ and someone re-installed the mini playfield and whatever bolts down the top of the playfield to the end of the wire ramp is missing. Can anyone tell me what goes here?
RussM[quoted image]
Just a machine screw. It screws into the bracket attached to the wire form that goes under the mini playfield. Not sure if that answers your question fully
22A258D7-6F5D-4F1F-9B3D-FFAFAE6A4407 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from PinJim:Actually now that you say it, I think mine is flat head....
My TZ has a shovel head
Quoted from Adipocere:Question regarding Color DMD: Does anyone have video of the LCD animations with "smoothing" turned on? I've seen a few CDMDs in the wild (and on the web site) but they always seem to just be dots. I did a search here, in the DMD thread, and in the "wild" but have not yet found anything.
Thanks.
Quoted from Giulio:Me too I am interested as never saw a vid about TZ Colord DMD with smoothing on, very interested in upgrading to color dmd...
I think Bowlingpin has posted a great looking color DMD on this thread
He has the LCD and it looks awesome on TZ
Quoted from Giulio:Me too I am interested as never saw a vid about TZ Colord DMD with smoothing on, very interested in upgrading to color dmd...
Not sure if this is on smoothing but this is bowlingpin pic of his pin on DMD- LCD Vs LED thread
6D70E2B8-EE69-45BF-BAB3-44F022577301 (resized).pngQuoted from Seatmandan:Here's DotXL from my game:
[quoted image]
Here's Popeye with smoothing on. Again, only LCD screens can do this[quoted image]
Ok so there are pros and cons to the smoothing on different games, is my guess?
Quoted from Coyote:I don't have a colorDMD, but I believe that -
The LCD model can do dots and smoothing, while the
LED model can only do dots.
Quoted from Seatmandan:I've had ColorDMD LCDs on about 5 different games, and the smoothing on each one always looked weird to me. I set every game to DotXL. seems to look the best IMO
There are 4 settings I believe-
1. standard (dots same size as plasma/LED)
2. Dot XL (still dots, just bigger)
3. Square dot (like DotXL, just square!) can't remember what the real name is for this
4. Hires/Upscaling (smoothing)
Thanks for the schooling! I have plans on getting the color DMD LCD for my TZ. So far it seems to be my choice
Quoted from Coyote:I don't have a colorDMD, but I believe that -
The LCD model can do dots and smoothing, while the
LED model can only do dots.
See you at TPF2020! This will be our first time attending..... looking forward to it!
Quoted from Seatmandan:awesome. You won't regret it! Again, I only have the LCD units, and they are amazing. I have one on Tales Of the Arabian Nights as well and it looks just as awesome!![quoted image]
Looks great... I’ve been procrastinating about buying one trying to justify the cost. In all honesty my want in the case is over my need 
Quoted from Seatmandan:I was going to say the beauty with them is that they're portable between games, but from the looks of your line-up, TZ is the only one in need of color!!
True it is the only one in need of color
I will never part with it. I’ve slowly been fixing it up.... color is next on the list
Quoted from Green-Machine:It went from pic1 to pic2 since I purchased it in spring[quoted image][quoted image]
Oops wrong picture that was my first TZ that I sold. Guess I didn’t document a before pic of my current TZ. So Dumb (re-import gave it away)
Quoted from awesome1:I have the ColorDMD LED on my TZ and love it! Also have one on my Independence Day and will be getting one for DE Jurassic Park.
I'm very happy with the LED version!
[quoted image]
Looks great! You also have the apron cards I’ve been looking for. May I ask where you got them?
Pinball decals EU
Quoted from Zukboy2002:does anyone know where i can find a translight or does anyone have one?
Quoted from RussMyers:Working on a TZ.
One of the TZ's mini playfield support bracket seems to be incorrect.
Does anyone have a picture of what this should look like?
RussM[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The support bracket should be directly across fro each other... I’ll be home in a few minutes to take a picture
Quoted from RussMyers:That's about what I thought.
Now, is there anywhere I can get one?
RussM
Google it. I find TZ parts easy to find through google
1 week later
Ive refurbed two TZs now. What a fun game to make new again. I kept one and sold one. It will always be in my collection. Always a favorite when I have friends over to play
Quoted from Navystan:Thanks. Looks like not an issue for me. I think a friend and I believe it's because this pin was fully restored including the cabinet and playfield. It seems that this cabinet may not have been an original TZ. Has anyone else experienced this? Someone restore your cabinet and used a different widebody cabinet?
http://www.pbresource.com/legs.html
Here you can buy a 31” leg to put on the back of you cab. This should get your slope into the range you need it in
Quoted from Adipocere:If I may offer a alternate suggestion...
My TZ, like many others, had leg plates that were stripped out so that the bolts did not tighten all the way. I decided to replace the plates inside the cabinet. When I ordered the replacement brackets, I found that they only had 2 holes as opposed to the 3 that the originals had. It is possible to install these in such a way that the "top" hole in the front is actually the middle hole, thus making the pitch much more shallow and resulting in a need to jack the back legs way up. You would not notice this unless you pulled off the leg protector and realized there was an extra hole up top. If this is the case (and it could be if this was a restore), simply pull the bracket out, turn it upside down, and make it so that the holes on the bracket line up to the top 2 holes on the cabinet. Then reinstall the legs and you will have a more normal pitch. I have seen from looking at many pictures over the years that this is a very common problem with TZ due to the 3 hole options for legs.
Credit also to Coyote who basically pointed this out in an earlier post.
I noticed his cabinet doesn’t look Like an original TZ cab
Quoted from Seatmandan:Noticed how? Aftermarket decals? Just want to know what denotes a "non-TZ" widebody cabinet by just looking at the outside.
There are a few widedody cabinets to chose from that he could have under the decals.
Gottlieb, system 1,
Genie
roller disco
system 80
panthera
the amazing Spider-Man
counterforce
star race
james bond
time line
force 2
pink panther
mars god of war
volcano
black hole
haunted house
eclipse
devils dare
rocky
spirit
punk
striker
krull
qberts quest
goin nuts
Williams.
contact
algar
stellar wars
laser ball
scorpion
Pokerino
bally
paragon
hotdoggin
space invaders
embryon
future spa
bally/Williams super pin
twilight zone
Indiana jones
judge dread
star trek the next generation
popeye saves the earth
demolition man
red and teds road show
data east
wwf royal rumble
guns and roses
Sega
Batman forever
hankin
the empire strikes back
Atari
the atarians
middle earth
space riders
superman
time 2000
airbourne avenger
4x4
road runner
stern electronics
flight 2000
big game
split second
iron maiden
cheetah
Orbitor 1
Viper
jersey jack pinball
the wizard of oz
the hobbit
Heghway pinball
full throttle
alien
Spinball
Jolly park
Vernes world
Behemoth body, or ludicrous body pins,
Bally Bigfoot
Atari Hercules.
Quoted from Seatmandan:You did not answer my question. You said it does not LOOK like a TZ cabinet to you. Why? What tells you it's not a TZ cabinet from just looking at it?? I've owned 3 widebody bally/williams games, (popeye, TZ, Indy) and all 3 games have completely different cabinet fronts, and the playfield hinge bolts are in different locations. I just want to know how you can tell by looking at the photo that it is not a TZ cabinet. The front looks right to me.
The giany list of widebody games has zero to do with anything.
You are amazing! Thanks for your wealth of knowledge. You didn’t give me a chance to explain myself before getting snappy about my comment.
I’m sorry that my comment annoyed you so much. My input is obviously not needed here because my knowledge of TZ is so below your level. Thanks for the welcoming
1 week later
Quoted from monkfe:does anyone have a GLM opto board available for ingo to use to replicate . Hes expressed interest in remaking this board in the GLM spirit, but needs it for a few days to copy/improve it. I don't have one....
What brand is the original?
Quoted from monkfe:Great Lakes Modular remade the board years ago (now out of business it seems) this is what he needs...
I have an extra but never examined it to see it’s maker but it looks old. So I am assuming it to be original to the game.
Quoted from monkfe:here is a pic of the old and newer style (old on the left) this is the 10A board not the 10B
[quoted image]
Thanks
Quoted from Jjsmooth:Cleaning up nicely tho.[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice pickup! I’m headed to Detroit area to pick up my third TZ. I’m a pin hoarder!
Quoted from Angel:You most likely have issues with your power driver board. Low 5V did it to me. I did a refurbish of my board a few years back (new caps, bridges and the 5Vdc regulator) to solve the power issues.
It could be as simple as loose connectors on the power driver board...You will need to do some troubleshooting and voltage measurements...
Quoted from Durzel:Yup, quite simply low 5v.
Kahr's daughterboardwould fix (mask) it, or a power board repair.
Thanks guys! I Appreciate Your help
Quoted from sturner:That little plastic piece made me nuts years ago. Couldn't figure out why the balls would get lodged. Finally realized I had never put that piece back when I cleaned out the gumball machine.
Does anyone know what price range a TZ with a good playfield, new decals, and invisaglass would go for? Just looking for a broad range. I'm completely lost on pricing of machines these days.
$6200 - 8200
Depends on who’s buying and who is selling.
I bought my first one for $4500. Three months later I paid $6500 for another one.
Quoted from embryon:Has anyone experienced this before. When I go into empty balls sometime the gumball will not turn on only the trough. Other times both the trough and gumball will activate at the same time as per normal. If I get the above fault all I do is exit the operation and then activate it again and all goes well.
I have a lazy flipper issue as well that I'll address which may be connected I don't know
Lazy flipper is usually flipper opto needing cleaned or replaced.
Not sure about your other issues
Quoted from Green-Machine:[quoted image]
They are just on the other side of your flipper buttons on inside of the cab
Quoted from embryon:Thanks Green machine they're the ones. I did notice one thing just now. The flipper works well if my other 5 games are powered off. I gave a reset fix it pcb on this game so do you think maybe I'm having voltage issues with this flipper? Either way I have to address this reset problem as well
Quoted from embryon:A quick update and I won't say it's all fixed just yet. More testing needed. But I switched the two flipper opto pcbs over and played a few games without any fault. Then I left the game idle on for a couple of hours and the issue did not appear on either side. Did a few more play tests to be sure.
I then switched them back as originally and play tested OK. Left the game idle again with all my games on for an hour and tested again. No issues. Left idle for another 3 hours and played without a problem. All flippers strong.
My conclusion is maybe a bad connection on the pcb and reseating the plug resolved the issue. But I will continue to monitor this game and keep you posted. Thanks again guys you've been great to me
That’s great! In my experience 9 out 10 times it’s something more simple like that causing problems
Quoted from yzfguy:Ok, is there a way to get that lampshade plug off without learning how to remove the mini playfield? I can't quite reach it..
I have the same piano. I agree it looks great. Great service and delivery
Quoted from yzfguy:Ok, I'm gonna duck for cover after asking this..... I'm a new TZ owner, and just finished reading this entire thread as I'm stuck home. I love the game, but can't honestly say I understand the function/purpose of the clock. It looks cool, yes, and I have the ingo board enroute, but I don't really get what it is telling me.
The Time! 
In Attract Mode, it can indicate the current time. During gameplay, it counts down timers for various rounds and modes, and is used in special ways in some rounds
2 weeks later
Quoted from Kwoody51:What high score do you need to get to allow it to register on the DMD?
I’m running 9.4H and just got a score of 730M (my best game yet and one shot from LITZ, ugh) but it didn’t let me register this. Then got a score of 600M still no high score entry.
Neither score is high enough for the buy in HSTD but is for the other list. HSTD are just the default, factory scores loaded on the 9.4H ROM.
ROM was purchased from Pinbits so would think it’s a good ROM burn.
Thanks!
I’ve tried everything in 9.4H to get mine to register and nothing has worked.
Quoted from Coyote:So it's looking like those that are reporting an issue bought in an extra ball.
Yes, this is a known bug in 9.4H - if you buy in, you (likely?) won't be able to enter in your initials, or get a credit. The high score table for buy-ins, and the credits awarded, is buggy.
Thanks Mike.... I’ll go through settings tomorrow and see what is going on. I have never changed my settings since buying my current TZ
THANKS
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:This probably could have been fixed in 9.5 so easily.
I wish that hatchet was buried...
Yes! It’s cool to bury the hatchet these days!!!
Quoted from iamabearsfan:Looking for recommendations for what colors to get for a Titan Rubber kit. Just curious what people are thinking/doing out there. Would love your ideas...
Yellow, black, blue all look nice. I went all black.
679A9857-5813-49BA-953E-1E949FF95A56 (resized).jpeg66EC3DE4-9CEF-4E22-8B9E-53C93FBA65D5 (resized).jpeg 2 months later
Quoted from jawjaw:I also had the same brilliant idea to light all the star posts. Looks cool but what a pain. Now one is not working and I really don't feel like pulling the whole mini pf just for that.
Good Times!! Me too
88265BF6-1870-47C8-B3E9-C4854BABF737 (resized).jpeg 2 weeks later
Quoted from Pin_Guy:I'm leaning towards doing a Rockstar Sparle on all the legs, the lockdown bar, side rails, and backbox hinges. Thoughts?
I think it would look pretty slick. I’d do it if I had the means.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I'm confused by the metal gate comment. A picture showing the problem area might help. First thing that came to mind for me is your balls are magnetized and need replaced.
Ditto! That is a strange thing to happen!
Quoted from awesome1:Really liked how the Pinball Life translucent "Perfect Play" rubbers looked on my Deadpool, so I put them on my TZ. Really happy with how the game looks!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks sweet!
Quoted from Coyote:True, but also maybe not. Somehow he found out it exists. To find that out,. and NOT hear about the background? .. *shrug* I'm not awake yet to run searches and find the links. Once I've had my coffee.
I feel ya! Coffee is vey important
1 week later
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:Check it out, not mine . . .
ebay.com link
Asking a bit much I think
Quoted from Automata90:Dust cover
[quoted image][quoted image]
Very cool! I’ll take one
2 weeks later
Quoted from Shenanigander:I just listed some clock parts if anyone is interested.
Not seeing them
Quoted from Piso:Hi from Italy. I finally found a good TZ to be restored. Completely original, all matching serial numbers. Has been unplayed for 15 years. Glad to be now in this club. Will be completely restoring the best I can. Really happy. Now I need to check all 182 pages of this thread
[quoted image]
Congratulazioni
Quoted from Coyote:White is a preliminary manual. Red is the production.
If you don't have EITHER< get the Red one, as the white one is missing a LOT of information, and has a lot incorrect. (Again, preliminary.)
Great news!
2 weeks later
Quoted from gunstarhero:My cab is generally really good besides the front panel around how coin door. Does anyone sell just a front replacement decal?
That would be awesome! I could also use just a front decal
Quoted from mjfisher:ebay.com link » Twilight Zone Pinball Coin Door Decal New Next Generation Printing Mr Pinball
Ouch
Quoted from Piso:I just received my decal set from ministry of pinball. Quality is good and they have the license holographic sticker. I noticed that on the backbox there are some difference. As you can see in the picture the door and shadow of the man is different and the ball near the door is more far away. Is this a graphic error or has some pinball shipped this way? Don't know if ministry print those or just resell this decals. The name of the file printed on the decal is in Italian language...
[quoted image]
The new one is also missing the Luigi Simoni head shot too!
Quoted from Tlamb:Finished up my restore this week. It’s a thing of beauty.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great! Congrats
1 week later
Quoted from Pinkitten:Anyone happen to have backup/extra plastics and could sell me one of these?
Thanks!
[quoted image]
I have a complete set I believe. They are used. If you might be interested in some I can go through them and let you see The quality
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:I’ve finally joined the Twilight Zone club! It’s a project but pretty decent playfield, everything functions and its previous owner replaced some of the typical buggy boards, plus gave me an uninstalled tv mod and parts. Going to replace the artwork for sure. I’m excited!
It’s a fun pin to restore
Quoted from yzfguy:We had several years in school where we had to convert everything to metric and back. Ugh... Then they gave up on us, and it was all for nothing basically!
Knowing is half the battle
Quoted from KJS:Nearly there.....[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Sweet!
Quoted from ceterumnet:I have a question regarding my TZ's bridge diverter. I was having problems where it was ejecting balls sideways 25% of the time, and then they would get stuck because of my robot mod...I've attached a pic.
I was able to improve the percentage to something more like 10% of the time by adding a washer next to the c-clip of the shaft that the diverter rotates. Also, I played with bending the shape a little of it to see if I could improve it.
I'm starting to suspect that it might be inconsistent power from the coil. But I'm definitely not sure.
Does anyone have any additional suggestions?
PS> My game is level in both directions per my digital level.
[quoted image]
EDIT: I forgot to mention one more thing: There are 2 of the horizontal steel supports for the wire form right before the diverter, and the ball rolls over those almost like speed bumps...this occasionally causes some weird motion. I wanted to also validate that the ball should be hitting those or if that is something that needs to be adjusted as well.
I added a custom made clear plastic guard. I have never had a problem again.
D23CE46C-181D-432E-BD6C-F10567E57FE9 (resized).jpegQuoted from Rdoyle1978:That does look real good - dare I ask, did you put in pinstadium?
Nope. Comet TZ LED kit. I wasn’t necessarily talking about my pin..... just the TZ pin in general is a very pretty pin
Quoted from Manny65:Well yes on both counts - TZ is a great looking pin and yours looks awesome. I really like how that LED kit has lit up the PF ... will have to take a look at it for mine
I am very pleased with Comets LEDs. Their kits are thoughtful and artistic. A++ quality LEDs
I always tweak things to my liking but not much to change with the TZ LED kit from Comet.
Quoted from Davi:Don't be surprised: there are flashlights (at least 4), and I see a long very bright LED strip at the back. It's not just the regular GI.
If you put post light under the slings posts you won’t need the spot lights. And yes nothing to be surprised about because we see how great they look 
better looking and much cheaper than pinstadiums IMO
1 week later
Quoted from Clizifer:Just joined the club today. Picked mine up in pretty good shape, got a steal of a deal on it either way. Having an issue with the lower left hand flipper, when I play a game it doesn't flip when the button is pressed. The upper flipper flips tho and the right hand side both flippers are working together. When I go into the test settings all the flippers test fine for the flip, and only the upper 2 test fine for the hold. The lower flippers wont hold and when playing a game the lower left doesn't work. Any ideas what the issue could be?
Sounds like it could be your flipper opto. You could try cleaning with a cotton swab and alcohol first. Sometimes that will get it working but might not completely. In this case it will need replaced. Also try re-seating your plug to the left opto, it could have come loose.
Quoted from Clizifer:Awesome. Thanks
Game is working great, tons of fun!
Glad you got it going! If it starts acting up again the opto is a fairly inexpensive part to replace
Quoted from JHPSWE:TZ Restoration [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great! Nice job! Are the legs,side rails and lockdown bar sandblast finished? I like the look
2 weeks later
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:I’ve had the ball get stuck here a few times in the last few days. Any thoughts?
[quoted image]
Seems there’s too much saucer. Check to see if you have a “screw loose” on your wireform
Quoted from marioparty34:Simple. The instructions are easy to follow. Good luck!
Thanks! I was hoping so.
1 week later
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Ugh, fairly new machine, been struggling with a weak right flipper (even after coil stop/sleeve replacement). Went in to just redo the whole thing (replace stuff eos switch, change out white bushing), and realized even though it is colored orange, the part number for the coil is green (11722). And to make more work, the upper right flipper is orange (15411). If I could figure out the hand over the face emoji, I’d use it. LOL. Well at least I found it and can remedy.
You should be solid for awhile now at least
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Who sells the spiral art sideblades like this?
Retrofurbs
Quoted from antoniomauro:Sorry for resuming an old post:
Could someone show me the location of this small clear plastics?
I know only the 31-1765-25 one...
[quoted image]
I’m pretty this one is also on my TZ. I can check when I’m back home
62F76006-2AE3-4936-A59B-5B9AEFEED6C3 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I would say just live with the faded decal or do the entire cabinet. Getting a next gen decal would likely be easy but would look funny when compared to the OEM stuff. If the fade is bugging you the aftermarket decal being different looking will drive you just as nuts. The really good stuff is the silkscreened decals but they are a premium (but worth it). Next gen is ok but you would need to do everything. Radicals are great too but that is a totally different look.
And cost
1 week later
Quoted from The_Pump_House:Here’s my street cred am I in?[quoted image][quoted image]
What a game room!
1 week later
Quoted from awesome1:Interesting... I have the magnet mod and a strong powerball shot on my machine can sometimes bounce back several inches.
A magnet will hold a ceramic ball!?
Quoted from awesome1:No, but the other poster was saying on their machine the mass of the magnet had a dampening effect on the powerball, but i don't really notice that on mine.
I was going to say! Sounds a little bizarre. Only reasoning I could fathom was a huge amount of iron in the ceramic
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Finally finished shopping out and upgrading my Twilight Zone!
Since I got it in December I have:
1. Changed out the lighting from clown to 2smd sunlight comets, added backboard and trough comet matrix light strips.
2. Added LED Color DMD
3. Removed peeling mylar in places
4. Slight playfield touchup
5. Thorough cleanup and shopout
6. Added backboard, side, lamp, and flip decals
7. New instruction cards
8. Added rocket, piano, and pyramid toy (3-d printing is neat!).
All in all, so much better than the one at Crabtowne. This will not be a long term keeper for me but I am having fun with it!
Before[quoted image]
After[quoted image][quoted image]
Feel like I've got that world under glass now.
Spirals look great!!
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:Good luck with that, I did order my Ingo board 6 weeks ago and still nothing in the post. (for the record I live in France and from Germany it should be a 4-days DHL shipment).
Been trying to get some updates from Ingo but no replies since more than two weeks now and all i have is a wrong DHL tracking number meaning I can't even follow up online to see where the shipment is.
The thing that bugs me is that I haven't received any email confirmation of my purchase after paying through Paypal. this purchase has been very blurry.
I had to send Ingo 4 emails (no replies) and eventually found them on Pinside to finally have a reply through PM that my order had been received weeks ago. As I write now it's been over two weeks since the board supposedly has been shipped indeed via DHL (Germany to France) but nothing in the post yet and no answers from Ingo nor Teresa since. A bit annoying to not know what's happening...
Wow! Ingo is a no go! What a bunch of crap
Quoted from McDoom:No slot machine mods there. Thanks though.
If anyone does know where to get the SLOT MACHINE mod please, show me the way.
Right there at the bottom of this thread lol
Quoted from DaveH:I’m finally making some improvements to my TZ. This garbage came out of the GI and was replaced with premium warm white bulbs. Just that simple change was a huge difference for playability. I can finally see the ball, and lost a huge amount of the flicker that it had.
[quoted image]
854E38C5-B393-416D-940F-1A3AC0A895C6.gifQuoted from BrianZ:I joined the crew Dec 18th. Funny thing, i've played TZ a fews time in the past; and i thought the game wasnt anything special. Was I every wrong, this one grows on you like a fine wine. Gets better the more you play it.
Quick question. Back left corner by the gumball machine, most machines show 3 rows of flashers. Mine only has 2, missing the top one. With a clear piece of plastic over it. I figured someone removed it and covered. I've now gone through the machine several times (fixing all issues), but I cant find any wiring that would go to a third flasher. So what am i missing, and where would the third wire being sourced from?
[quoted image]
Here’s a picture of a back up I have
image (resized).jpgQuoted from BrianZ:That helps, can you take a picture of the connectors? Is one 2, and the other 4? I guess I assumed i would see (3) 2 pin connectors. Thx!
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgQuoted from BrianZ:Thank You! That helps immensely. I've got all the connectors. Someone poped 2 pins out.
You’re welcome. Glad I could help
Quoted from BrianZ:Anyone have a spare set of plastics to sale?
I have some new and some used but not a whole set.
Quoted from monkfe:I thought 9.4H was the latest....I do have ball save enabled..
Yes you do. I think he was referring to latest that is not the 9.4Home
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:Hey guys,
What screw do you have/use here for the plastics above the left ramp?
I feel mine arent the ones that should be there and as a result they have a lot of movement after any game and i have to replace them in their holes...
[quoted image]
Mine has that same screw.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from ParisPinballAdct:Thanks!
However i see that just above you have a screw that’s different than mine this time
I believe you are seeing screw underneath. Yours is there but at a different angle. Looks like your screw isn’t going into the lower plastic like it should. Maybe not a long enough screw!?
Quoted from Green-Machine:I believe you are seeing screw underneath. Yours is there but at a different angle. Looks like your screw isn’t going into the lower plastic like it should. Maybe not a long enough screw!?
I do notice your screw underneath the one you have highlighted is in the wrong hole. I bet that is your problem. Switch them up
Quoted from Scott8806:I have a question when u lock the balls in after the game is over are they supposed to be released
Mine doesn’t
1 week later
Quoted from Mikespinball:Just finished a full restoration on a TZ for a friend. It turned out amazing! Thought I would share.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Shiny new TZ. Might have to send you mine!
Quoted from PinballAir:Do mirror blades get scratched when you lift the playfield or are they removed before you lift?
These are a life saver or should I say a “blade saver!”
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
Quoted from yzfguy:Out of stock. Any other source? I just put in new mirror blades on a game and no matter how careful I am, they scrape. Only alight scratches now, bit I'd like to avoid more.
One left!!! Better hurry!!! Pinball universe in Germany makes them. You can order from them as well.
https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/protectors/interior-cabinet-game-art-blade-protector-set-for-pinball-machine/
Quoted from yzfguy:Thanks very much for the heads up... I was going to get them, but it's over 50 bucks with shipping. I think I'm going to try to find some kind of plastic and try making my own before I spring for them. I never thought about it, but all my games have either blade art or mirrors and they do get kinda chewed up over time.
Yes... we spend a lot of Jack on these blades. We need to make an effort to not cause us to spend even more cheddar destroying our investments
Quoted from PinballAir:My scoop sent it down the outhole every shot.
I removed the scoop and found the tap that is bent over the top was broken.
I welded that. Now it only goes down the out hole 40% of the time on the powerball And 10% on the steel balls.
Before that, it barely could reach the slings. I found a shooter tip down there from the previous owner.
I had a re-import TZ from some bar in Germany. Had the same issue.....found a bloody tooth in the scoop!!!
Quoted from DDandB-KID:I follow what the manual states, page 2 #4
CLEANING of the POWRBALL is not recommended.
Yeah I used a sand blaster
1 month later
Quoted from PinballAir:Search classic arcades on pinside.
Ordering anything is a crap shoot.
I too have purchased from him.
Crap.
I posted pics of high speed sling plastics that were not even close to the correct color
It is what it is. Proof is in the pudding. Sorry someone had to downvote you for having an opinion. Very sad! Thanks for saving your fellow pinsiders from making a purchase that would waste their hard earned dollars. Some of us love hearing honest reviews of products
Quoted from damadczar:Well I took a chance on the classic arcades repro. Total crap. Just utter crap. The colors and sharpness on my original one were far superior, even with the damage and scratches. Anyway, after I send this back to him I'm going to go with the Netherlands reprint I guess. I mean, why isn't a TZ speaker panel quality reprint more commonly found? Seems like a missed opportunity for reprint people.
I mean, look at this?! EDIT: note there is no film covering the panel, just the transparent plastic. Also, if I gave you a close up shot you'd notice the obvious blurry/fuzziness of the printing, and not the sharp smooth lines of the original.
[quoted image]
Thank you for your honest review! Much appreciated. You have potentially saved your fellow pinsiders some hard earned money!
Quoted from Stebel:Looking through the club, saw that someone used some star post lights on the mini playfield. I decided to go a bit further.
Lit up all the main star posts, all to GI. For the upper pf, I used glow in the dark star posts and wired the post lights to the Battle the Power insert. I thought the glow in the dark posts would stand out more, but not really.
[quoted image]
Looks good 
1 week later
Quoted from LitzDoc:That looks beautiful. I think that's what I will do. Was it easy to connect? I assume you just use an alligator clip to the general illumination for the lighting. Stupid question but how do you know which wires are the GI ones? Thanks very much.
GI is an abbreviation for general illumination. So look for the wires that are attached to the bulbs that generally illuminate the game. No flashers or blinking lights. Like the bulbs under the plastics for instance. Hope that helps
1 week later
3 weeks later
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:How to Free Habit-trail From Right Ramp?
This is a legit disentanglement puzzle.
Can't free it!
Do I squeeze the habit-trail ends to slip the anchor out?
No flexibility there!
[quoted image]
Is it tack welded on?
Quoted from LitzDoc:I have a Kruzman cleared reproduction TZ PF and mini for sale. $1200 + shipping, if anybody is looking for one. I was going to do a PF swap but decided it was too much work. I have the wooden crate it was shipped in.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Ohhhweeeehohhhweee so shiny
Quoted from Manny65:The LED should be off but turns on when it senses a steel ball. If the LED is permanently on, you most likely have a break in the inductor or it's connection. As Mad_Dog_Coin_Op indicated soldering the 2 wires from the inductor board to the larger proximity board will remove a common connectivity issue found with these original boards. Also twist these 2 wires as it helps reduce interference to the frequency that the board is checking for.
Here's a set replacement boards (with an adjustable pot for calibration) if you need https://www.tanglestech.com/Twilight-Zone--Trough-Proximity-Eddy-Sensor--Replaces-A-16534-and-A-16528-Switch-26_p_36.html
How is shipping to the us? I just ordered
Quoted from Manny65:Typically 2 weeks however last year was up to 2 months with Covid. I think things have returned more to normal and there's no issue if you use a freight company (eg DHL or FedEx) as they have their own planes, it's a bit more variation using post that I believe heavily leverages commercial passenger flights.
Let us know when you receive it as it'd be interesting to know
Thanks, I’ll keep you posted
Quoted from Manny65:The ad does say "board set", so I think it would have the 2 boards - could always ask
I did ask. It’s just the one board
Quoted from 2pupPinz:I picked up one of the two from the seller this week, this is what it had. Dave was super quick as well.
[quoted image]
Weird!
48089B86-7231-4F28-A826-2E2FBC80AB50 (resized).pngQuoted from 2pupPinz:Idk….maybe he thought you meant the subway board too. He did mention he no longer has the game intended for these, so probably just cleaning up his leftover inventory of ‘when I get around to it’ or ‘those are un-obtainium items, better grab one’ stuff….which I need to do lol!
For sure! Oh well I ordered one from Australia now……so I’ll be waiting a bit till it arrives
Quoted from 2pupPinz:I’m sure you will be pleased, as I am, that these are being made. Thank goodness for those that reproduce…nay..make better the games we love.
I bought one a couple years ago. The one with the red board. It worked great but I put it on the TZ I sold. So now my keeper TZ board is acting up. I should have known it was going to happen eventually
2 weeks later
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:GI LED Color and Brightness:
Which do you prefer?
Cool White?
Sunlight?
Warm White?
2SMD or 1SMD?
Thanks.
Here is mine in sunlight from Comet Pinball
2D74AC36-A615-4DAF-A751-B7CA66DF0954 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from ramegoom:Looking for a custom mirror clock face? These were part of a prototype run, specifically for the playfield clock.
I have a few of them available along with some clear acrylic face lenses (blue protective layer shown). They mount with silver standoffs and spell out TWILIGHT ZONE instead of the cryptic characters. Clock lighting passes thru the graphics, and the rest is a mirror. PM me if interested. [quoted image]
Could you show it in the clock and lit?
4 weeks later
Quoted from nerdygrrl:I just want to say, that out of all of the groups I am and have been a part of this has by far been the most helpful and positive. You guys are all great ambassadors to the hobby.
I absolutely agree with this! Thank you, all
1 week later
Quoted from LTG:About 9 months. Many changes during that time. Sample prototype stuff ended in a month or so. Grapefruit colored pop bumper cap, third magnet in, two posts by pop bumper, green lock light, missing flip here on mini playfield, too short metal supports to rest playfield on, sticker on light by right ramp, white clock face. No sunburst behind Rod on back box side art.
Things slowly changed. Flip here on mini playfield, magnet pole removed for third magnet, eventually no hole. Two posts by pop bumper removed, black plastic plugs in the holes, eventually no holes. Multi colored clock face. Longer playfield supports to rest playfield on. About 1/3rd of the way high power interlock switch installed but not wired in. Last third of the run had it wired in. Starburst added to backbox side art behind Rod.
No rhyme or reason on translights. Seemed like they had two stacks. One with stars cut out one without. Didn't matter when the game was made. You got one or the other.
LTG : )
Thanks for all the info! Very interesting
Quoted from THJM:I preface my remarks by saying this is just my personal opinion, and that I have not installed my LED lighting yet but I have received my order from Comet. I spent a bunch of time researching what to get including may emails with Comet. I did a preliminary order of sample lights and flashers with Comet to see what I preferred.
At the end of the day I decided on Sunlight for everything where possible. I much preferred Sunlight to the other options.
I would not go with all frosted 2smd. My suggestion would be keep original flashers (even Comet suggests this, and I found the LED flashers to be meh), 1smd frosted for the backbox, 2 smd frosted for the GI and 2 smd clear for the controlled lamps under the playfield. You will need some in bayonet and some in wedge, need to count (I don't have the TZ count handy because I ordered for 3 machines at the same time). Don't order non-ghosting if you will be installing the OCD boards.
Hope that helps.
I also put the comet sunlight led in my TZ I’m very pleased with the look
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Thanks, Manny!
Hmm. A fix involving a magnet or a fix involving raising the entry end of the trough with spacers. Magnet fix is obviously easier but I find it hard to imagine that would work reliably given how fast the ball is moving when it comes through that elbow. Guess I'm going to have to pull the clock and right ramp to get at the trough and pull it, too, to install some spacers. What makes me nervous about pulling ramps is that I don't like to screw the ramp-flap screws in and out repeatedly. I worry those fragile threads will strip and with ramp flaps there is no stepping to a larger size screw allowed.
YES!! Unscrewing and reapplying the ramp flap screws always terrify me too. It would stink to strip those out
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Drat.
How am I going to invigorate my Magna-flipping? It's rare that I defeat the Power!
I lightly smack my flippers buttons really fast rather than pressing them with my fingers. It seems to yield really good results on my TZ
Quoted from PinballAir:Does anyone have a pic of an original side of the head.
I want to know if the hinge screws are mill finish and if the cabinet corner screws are "blued" or painted.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Green-Machine:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You beat me by one second Lloyd
Quoted from LTG:You helped too.
Mine is a sample head and yours is a production head. So both versions are covered.
LTG : )
D0E290B2-B37E-4AD9-8ED1-B454D6915259.gifQuoted from jawjaw:I haven't played TZ in a while. Two games in a few nights ago and I'm in LITZ. Nice but only 200m. Try playing LITZ using the home rom cheat many times. Absolute best I can do is 270m. I don't get it. Only thing I can think of is my flippers feel a bit JJPish- sluggish and a bit weak. They have always been that way. I have the right coils (155411), rebuilt flippers, and new flipper boards. Should I try replacing the coils? They look to be replaced at one point but don't remember if I did that. Any tips for snappier flippers?
Mine feel the same even after a rebuild and new flipper boards 
You nailed it there, about the jjp feel! Exactly my thoughts
2 weeks later
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Please tell me where I might look for a sticker like this one.
Thanks.
[quoted image]
1993
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Please tell me where I might look for a sticker like this one.
Thanks.
[quoted image]
Google is your friend
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Thanks!
Too bad the price is absurd. Guess I will just forget about adding this decal.
Yes, that price is crazy. Keep looking
3 weeks later
2 months later
Quoted from Manny65:Paging Coyote to the front counter please
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"994830a63faa1e62bc1b38619ce6213e2ab9e72d-1641001392-1800"};
//]]>
All the answers! Sir Coyote
1 week later
Quoted from billsfanmd:Im doing my clock soon. Have the new boards. I'm just nervous. I thought I saw detailed instuctions a few years ago how take apart and more importantly get it back together
It’s really not that bad. You can put small sticker on gear positions if you are worried about not getting it positioned correctly. Take your time and plan ahead. I’ve done it a few times and was surprised at how simple it really is.
1 week later
Quoted from damadczar:As part of doing my restore I wanted to use my 3 button coin door and make coin inserts similar to what McSquid did on his.
Here is the fruits of my labors. Feel free to re-use.
I wanted to make a few different kinds since I had 3 buttons to fill up, but also because my friend wanted some and he only has a two button door.
I was targeting this for wpc coin door inserts, obviously. No idea of different insert sizes are required for different button types.
[quoted image]
Speaking of which, the clear pinball life coin door buttons as well as what's on several of my other WPCs are 3 cm high x 1.6 cm wide.
Be sure to print at 100% scale.
Enjoy,
Steven
[quoted image]
Very cool! Thanks for sharing!
1 month later
Quoted from ray-dude:After almost 20 years in storage, unpacked my TZ today! Now time to swap out lamps for LEDs, install Cliffys and some mods, big cleaning, and slowly bring it back up to fighting shape![quoted image]
Looks really nice! Hopefully the batteries were taken out
Quoted from ray-dude:Whew!
[quoted image]
Wow! Things look great in there! Time warp
1 week later
Quoted from Coyote:Seeing as how TZ doesn't HAVE a 'Midnight Madness', you'll be fine on that count.
Good to see you again Coyote
Quoted from ramegoom:Totally ripped off of Caspers design. Amazing how someone can get away with this.
They ain’t afraid of no ghost
4 weeks later
Quoted from jid:Answering my own thread… the answer is no, the bulb can’t be replaced w/o destroying it. So I’ll get a replacement camera. How unusual!
Quoted from jid:currently shows out of stock. You may have gotten the last one!
And $103!! WHAT!!
Quoted from Manny65:in AUD
Still a little expensive for a plastic housing. Call me cheap
Quoted from pinballizfun:You admit it's annoying yet you keep it anyway? Ugh, people and topper-itis.
Wow! This guy….kick in the ribs when he’s down 
3 weeks later
Quoted from Ashram56:Would someone know where this board come from? It's not a stock clock board from what I can see
The upper right led is not working properly, it's flashing like crazy
Before I start disassembling it, looking for information
Regards[quoted image]
This
6A8428A5-4D06-47C0-A90E-664A3CADAA57 (resized).png 1 month later
Quoted from PPS:Original WMS tool Clock Housings - back available again W logo tool in Clear (Red and Blue Coming soon) sold in Matched sets $39.95 introductory price ... we've not had these for many years ... original finish, etc.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-883X-13&Store_Code=PP
Team PPS
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looking forward to getting a blue one from you!
3 months later
Quoted from Pinkitten:What’s your vote between all chrome armor, about $2,000 total for legs, rails, lock bar, hinges, bolts, and coin door, or, sparkle black powder coat called Spiced Black (looks like space) for around $500 total? The color I’m considering is below…
I love chrome, but damn.
[quoted image]
Did you notice in GRB1959s pictures that his chrome almost looks black at most angles?
I would go spiced black! You won’t regret it
Quoted from GRB1959:I think the black that you are seeing in my chrome is likely a reflection of the cabinet side art from my BSD which is very dark. In any case Spiced Black does look really nice.
Gord
Yeah for sure! The chrome looks great. I just can’t believe $2000 for a chrome job these days. I think nickel plating is a bit cheaper and looks the same to me…at least it used to be less expensive
Quoted from sizzler747:So the camera award will be Greed targets and it will then say next award is also Greed targets as well. No matter how many times I get the camera award it always says Greed targets and tells me that the next award is also Greed targets. I have completed all Greed targets and it still did not change the outcome of receiving Greed targets again for the next award.
That is pretty greedy!
Definitely something not right. Above my head, I’m not sure what it could be. Not sure what in the programming creates the sequence of awards. Could this be a flaky rom?
Quoted from sizzler747:I wonder if a new rom chip would fix it.
I wish I knew more about how they work. There are a lot more knowledgeable people in this thread that may be able to help pinpoint your problem
Quoted from LTG:Meter in hand. Battery power getting onto the CPU ?
Battery holder failure happens.
LTG : )
Thanks Lloyd! I’ll investigate further tomorrow. What is JJP waiting on! Hire LTG for his infinite pinball knowledge!
Quoted from bakerhillpins:I worked on a TZ where sometimes the memory would hold and sometimes not... turns out the battery holder had some minor corrosion damage on one of the paddles and it made marginal connection with the negative terminal of the center cell. I found the problem by waiting for the memory to fail on boot and measured the DC voltage across the entire batter pack and compared that to the sum of the voltage measured across each of the 3 batteries. It didn't match so I inspected the holder and found the bad paddle.
Thank you! Hope to get it resolved this evening. Or at least discover the problem
Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:Toilet bowl cleaner on a Q tip will make short work of any green corrosion on Battery terminals, clean with rubbing alcohol after and good to go ✅
I took your advice. I had one paddle with acid damage. Cleaned up nicely. Looks new everything else looked rock solid! Thanks guys!
Quoted from Coyote:Stupid question, but are your batteries in correctly? (I've done it wrong many times..)
The very first thing I checked! LOL
It’s all good now. Had a little seepage causing a disturbance in the connection. When I changed batteries must have broke some residue loose and would allow the batteries do its job.
Thanks Coyote
1 week later
Quoted from Mrg50:I am doing some minor maintenance on a twilight zone pinball at my grandsons house. He is 3 1/2 tears old and really likes to help out. I am going to let him remove some acorn nuts while I hold the nut driver, etc. He gets very excited when the powerball come out during the game and I think that he would enjoy cleaning the powerball with me. I know brass cleaner would work, but I am hoping that using something with less chemicals would work like maybe tooth paste. That way he help clean it. Do you think that tooth paste would work?
I think tooth paste might work. I hear Novus works.
Quoted from Scoot:Magic eraser would be easy to use for a 3 year old.
Ohh Good idea!
Quoted from Pinkitten:Getting my newly added TZ customized to my liking. I added a color DMD, target decals and a few other mods (street lamp, chrome spiral sign, soon also a spinning slot machine, etc). I still need to install mirror blades, then decide on chrome vs black sparkle powder coat. I added clear flipper buttons with color-changing LEDs today, and my clock shooter rod is coming soon! Thanks to James in NY for this excellent deal. A true keeper. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It’s looking good
1 week later
Quoted from Pinkitten:It’s coming along!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Wow! The chrome has won the battle!! Very nice!
Quoted from ramegoom:Rottendog seems to be the only replacement. Anyone have issues with those? I see it is shipped without a CPU, wondering how they test the board prior to shipment.
Anyone here use this board for your machine?
I had a Rottendog replacement on my first TZ it worked very well for me.
1 week later
Quoted from Dan1733:Won't elevator bolts still protrude from the cabinet and head?
I’m guessing he countersunk them
Which you could do with any type of head bolts I’d say.
So is it a good idea to countersink all your bolt heads and cover them with the decals? It seems that it would look nice. Just curious…. I’m about to do my Funhouse.
1 week later
Quoted from Madmax541:Thinking of adding mirror blades to my TZ.
Wondering what others who have used mirror blades recommended.
Does it look good or do you prefer other blades?
I think it looks good. You be the judge
E13E54F2-9886-44CC-893E-4FBCD21BA1E1 (resized).jpegQuoted from Madmax541:Is that Cointaker mirror blades?
Cointaker is set in place w screws
PDI. You can use screws if you want but there is really no need to with hinge bolt’s holding them and the double sided tape.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Looks great!
I have regular mirror blades on my TZ as well.
I have them on all my pins.
Richard
I’ve done the same! It really opens things up and adds light too.
Quoted from TZ_Ryan:Here is a buddy's machine we restored a few years ago in gloss black powdercoat
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What are those speakers doing?! Looks really cool
Quoted from Dan1733:What is the easiest and safest way to create holes in radcals (for bolts) without ruining the radcals? Exacto knife? Drill?
A new sharp utility knife blade is good. I found it give better control than an x-acto knife.
Quoted from DumbAss:So are these TZ clock housings unicorns?
[quoted image]
Can't remember where or when I bought them. I want to say I got them from Kerry (Mantis) because I found them in a bunch of Mantis parts.
I’ll take the blue one, Please! They both look really nice!
3 weeks later
Quoted from A1k71:Any idea why the backboard is shaped that way (with the top corners cut diagonally) and not a straight rectangle??
OSHA standards…. It’s probably to avoid hitting something in the cab when you have the playfield in upward position
Quoted from PinballGalore:Been having issues with the clock. As you can see in the video, in test mode it’s controllable. It stops, reverses both slowly and fast, but no forward. When I exit the menu, or when turning the machine on, it continuously works, but in reverse mode only.
Thanx
You have definitely entered the twilight zone! Are the optos not registering?
The minute hand might not be breaking the twelve o’clock opto. So it’s just searching for 12 o’clock
Also check dc motor drive board. Maybe some soldering issues. You could try resoldering the L6203 on the motor control board ...
1 week later
Quoted from PBFan:My TZ had weak flippers for years compared to other friends TZs. Tried flipper rebuild, coil replacement, new flipper opto boards but nothing seemed to really improve much. I finally replaced the Fliptronics board with a repro one and bam! Whole new machine. So I always felt my IJ had weaker flippers when it came to hitting the ramps - new repro Fliptronics board and same result, I could make the ramps so easy after that.
The old components on the Fliptronics boards get weak after 30 years. Now it is probably an easy fix if you can diagnose which components are bad and solder. But a repro Fliptronics board is relatively inexpensive. As others have said don’t bother with changing the coils (maybe the sleeves).
Good luck!
100% agree. Found the same results from changing fliptronics board
Quoted from GILV:Thanks for the effort but I got an answer from the creator himself, this mod was made by Judge Dredd pinball mods.
Could someone please explain in another way because I don't quite understand what he means by "+goes to lamp tab that runs to the centre of the lamp holder/lamp" , plus, I can't really see where this bracket could mount in the shooterlane hole?
Here's his answer:
the small metal bracket is the shooterlane hole light, should have crocs on it and connects to a GI lamp, previous owner has removed crocs and soldered which is a better option, I advise you do the same, +goes to lamp tab that runs to the centre of the lamp holder/lamp.
Thanks.
Maybe it's just my rusty english since english is not my first language but I appreciate any help.
Try putting it on a Judge Dredd since that is what it is made for. Seems logical to me.
Quoted from GILV:Judge Dredd Pinball Mods is a seller, not a Pinball machine, I have art blades for my TZ that came from them:
https://mezelmods.com/collections/judge-dredd-pinball-mods
Now I get it. Sorry I was definitely confused LOL
Quoted from cliffordpd:Look what my neighbor made for me for my birthday...
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Welcome to the Geezer club!
Nice gift
Quoted from Coyote:I laughed when I saw the clock's hour hand off. Idiots.
Why are they idiots?
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Renton, WA
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