Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider grb1959.
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Hi @jason_jehosaphat,
I had a problem with the magnets which stopped working on my TZ mini-playfield several years ago. The issue ended up being my U-20 chip (ULN2803) was fried. See the URL below for the troubleshooting involved and a final resolution. Post #4 in this thread contains a URL which details the troubleshooting involved and eventual resolution.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-tz-problem-with-all-switches-on-column-4
Gord
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Can’t seem to find a listing anywhere on the web, does anyone know if the slot machine mod with moving reels is available? The Mod Couple said they won’t be making any more any time soon.
Thank you,
This one is in the UK on Ebay, but it looks nice.
I purchased a similar looking TZ slot machine mod from Tracy Mitchell (Tracy Toys) in the US back in November of 2007 for $150 which is shown in the photos below and is still going strong. The Tracy Toys TZ slot machine mod shown in my photos is made out of metal whereas the UK version of the TZ slot machine mod that is currently on Ebay is resin cast 3D printed.
Gord
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Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Continuity between pin and pad in all three cases.
I had a similar problem with the K-I-S-S lamp board on my CFTBL. When I tested continuity from the header pins to the lamp pads my DMM would buzz and register continuity. However, intermittently during gameplay one of the <S> letters would stop lighting up and then stay dark until I would jiggle the connector.
Assuming a cold solder joint, I reflowed solder to the offending <S> header pin and it has worked perfectly ever since which has been a couple of years now. I am not saying that this is the same issue in your case, but it is something to consider.
Gord
Quoted from LTG:https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-slot-machine-scoop/ it has a tab protruding from the side to stop the target.
LTG : )
I had the same issue and purchased the slot machine scoop with the tab on the side from Mantis Amusements back in March of 2008 and have had absolutely no problems since. This also stops airballs from the slot machine standup target.
Gord
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:Rocket Kicker Warning?
My Rocket kicker will fire the instant the switch is closed.
I've noticed on other TZs there is a pause, then a strobe warning, and *then* the kicker fires.
My game ROM is REV-L2 I believe.
Do I need L5 instead?
The two links below show the ROM revision history for TZ.
http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/tz_romrev.txt
http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/tz94h.php
Review these documents and pick which ROM best suits your needs. I have been running game rom U6 L9.4H since 2007 on my TZ and it works great.
Gord
Quoted from Coyote:They're not opening unreliably in test because your MINUTE hand isn't interrupting the minute optos properly.
I do not see where you are having an issue understanding this, honestly, I'm kind of confused.. But -
Just because the minute hand (not HANDS - one hand, the minute hand) sweeps 'through' the opto does not mean that the interrupter is BLOCKING the beam. If you look closely at your minute hand, you will see a small piece of it extends back, towards the optos.
The shaft that the minute hand mounted on, when it starts to wear, the shaft will start to slip forward. (You can test front-rear movement in this shaft by putting one finger on the back of the clock in the center, where the minute shaft is exposed, and the front of your minute hand, and slide it forward and backward.) Once the minute shaft - and therefore, the minute hand with that interrupter - moves far enough forward, when the motor is spinning the minute hand, it is more than possible that the interrupter - despite ppassing through the opto - is not blocking enough of the opto's beam to close the switch signal, so therefore the game "dosen't see" the minute hand pass through that opto.
If this happens in game startup (power-on, exiting test mode), the clock will me marked bad and never used. If it happens in game, the clock will reset to 12:00 and be attempted to be used the next mode.
You can also test the 'slop' by, while in Clock Test mode, GENTLY holding your finger against the front of the minute hand, thereby removing that 'slop'.
I had this problem with the interrupter on the minute hand not always blocking the opto beam on my TZ about 13 years ago. I took a small piece of black electrical tape and stuck it on the interrupter of the minute hand to extend the interrupter 1/4 of an inch or so and pressed the electrical tape together to flatten it a bit.
That was over 13 years ago and I have not had a problem with the clock since then and it functions perfectly. Below is the link to my original posting for this issue on the RGP newsgroup.
https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/OEPlD-yjm3w/m/--tvt02gZ1oJ
Gord
Quoted from cconway84:Twilight zone blacked out with rainbows end prismatic metallic. Looks mostly black with flake indoors but shows it’s rainbow effect when it catches the light.
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Wow, that looks great. Good choice of powder coat colors.
Gord
Quoted from billsfanmd:My power ball is dark grey. Best way to clean ? Thx
I use this on my TZ powerball along with a micro fiber cloth. It takes a lot of elbow grease and about 20 minutes or so of continuous polishing, but eventually the TZ powerball will get really white and clean again.
Gord
Quoted from noitbe1:Hello looking for help:
I have 3 mini playfield switchs no longer working: the mini playfield left and the opto entrance and opto exit (the other switchs on mini PF are working)
In the test mode I saw that the mini playfiled left switch is always on, even if i pushed on the swith so I think something is wrong maybe with the switch or component.
I hope that is the same issue that make also the two optos to not working.
Any advice or ideas would be welcome.
Thanks for any help.
I had a similar issue back in 2013 with my TZ. The culprit ended up being the U-20 chip (ULN2803) on the MPU board. See the following two URL's for the issue and solution narrative.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-tz-problem-with-all-switches-on-column-4#post-654448
https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/_4Iezuvz-ZU
Gord
Quoted from PinballHaven:Swapped coil, flipper still sticking. Thinking it’s electronic not mechanical, there’s an audible buzzy sound before it drops. Thoughts?
I had the same problem recently on my TOM which also has the GLM flipper boards (installed in 2010). I adjusted the two small round magnets so that the correct LED would like upon a slight flipper button press and then both LED's would light upon a full flipper button press.
On my TOM prior to readjusting the magnets it would occasionally leave one LED lit for several seconds even after releasing the flipper button and the flipper would stay stuck in the up position for several seconds. My TOM now works correctly again after adjusting the two small round magnets.
On some of the later GLM flipper boards that I purchased GLM replaced the two small round magnets with one larger rectangular magnet which is stronger and not as prone to shifting out of position. Anyway, that is just my experience with the GLM boards so your mileage may vary.
Gord
Quoted from jetmechinnc:All the switches in column 8 are out in test mode. Opto and the micro switch.
Going back to February of 2013 I had an issue with my TZ where none of the switches on column 4 would register. The culprit turned out to be the U-20 (ULN2803) chip on the MPU board. Replacing the chip fixed the issue.
Perhaps a short zapped this chip on your TZ as well. It may be worth checking.
The link below from REC.GAMES.PINBALL details the troubleshooting and the eventual solution to the issue that I had back in 2013.
https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/_4Iezuvz-ZU
Gord
Quoted from ray-dude:By chance, took delivery of 2 pins today, and after 50 years of dreaming of someday having a proper pinball lineup, that day has come!
Of course, my daughter is now calling out my TZ for looking a bit thin and naked up top compared to his cousins. Any recommendations for tasteful TZ toppers that folks can share, for purchase or DIY?
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I have this one on my TZ. It is interactive with game play and fits the theme well.
https://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-topper-accessory/
Gord
Quoted from Pinkitten:What’s your vote between all chrome armor, about $2,000 total for legs, rails, lock bar, hinges, bolts, and coin door, or, sparkle black powder coat called Spiced Black (looks like space) for around $500 total? The color I’m considering is below…
I love chrome, but damn.
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My TZ has chrome armor done by the late Mike Chestnut and it is beautiful as shown in the photos. On my TZ the side rails, lockdown bar and legs are chromed. I opted not to have the backbox hinges or the coin door chromed.
I have seen some TZ's in a powder coat color like you describe and it looks amazing. For the cost difference which is significant I think I would lean towards the Spiced Black powder coat.
Gord
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Quoted from Green-Machine:Did you notice in GRB1959s pictures that his chrome almost looks black at most angles?
I would go spiced black! You won’t regret it
I think the black that you are seeing in my chrome is likely a reflection of the cabinet side art from my BSD which is very dark. In any case Spiced Black does look really nice.
Gord
I just posted a separate thread regarding a Slot Machine VUK kickout issue I am having.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-slot-machine-vuk-very-weak#post-7172036
Gord
Quoted from Pinkitten:Getting my newly added TZ customized to my liking. I added a color DMD, target decals and a few other mods (street lamp, chrome spiral sign, soon also a spinning slot machine, etc). I still need to install mirror blades, then decide on chrome vs black sparkle powder coat. I added clear flipper buttons with color-changing LEDs today, and my clock shooter rod is coming soon! Thanks to James in NY for this excellent deal. A true keeper. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That is one nice TZ and very tastefully modded out. Congrats on your new game.
Gord
Quoted from LTG:I'd really appreciate that. Colors for transmitter and receiver on either side in the clock passage please. That will really help me find where the other side wires might be since I only found the one small two wire connector.
Thank you my friend ! That really cheered me up.
LTG : )
I have been following this mini-thread within the TZ club thread and it is very interesting and educational. LTG is always ultra helpful and often the first to post on any issue that I have ever had with any of my games and
Coyote is the definitive TZ expert who has provided invaluable TZ information that has been very helpful to me over the past several years.
Gord
Quoted from Pinkitten:A little nod to one of my favorite episodes and TZ: The Movie, which I’ve always liked.
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Agreed that the 'Walking Distance' episode of TZ is one of the best with Gig Young. Ronnie Howard also had a small bit role in this episode. TZ is still a classic television series after 6 decades.
Gord
Quoted from PBFan:Both the chrome and black look amazing. I have a very slight preference for the black as The fingerprints on my Tron chrome drive me insane. It is beautiful when clean and not being played. The black always looks nice. TZ is such a great game in both play and looks. Good luck with your decision.
Yes, the black powder coat looks great on TZ. I have chrome armor on my TZ and it also looks really nice. A quick swipe or two with a soft microfiber cloth and the fingerprints are gone and the chrome looks perfect again.
Gord
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Quoted from delt31:That was my expectation as well. Would you mind taking a pic of the ball guide and post right by the camera? I’m curious to see how your setup looks like
My TZ right orbit shot flows all the way around to the lower left flipper as well without hitting the post by the camera. Photos are attached showing my TZ near the camera as requested.
Gord
Quoted from Runswithscissors:I’m looking for a little help here. I’ve had my TZ for about three months and I’ve had this happen twice now.
The ball rolled slowly under the power playfield. I think it was “The Camera” shot, but I’m not sure. Anyway, the ball disappears and is never seen again. I think it is down under the playfield because I can’t find it, ball search can’t find it and shaking the crap out of the machine doesn’t break it loose. The only way to get the ball back is to take the glass off and raise the playfield about 1/2 way until I hear a clank. I raised the playfield up the rest of the way trying to figure out where the ball was, but I didn’t see it. When I lowered the playfield, the ball came rolling out from under the power field.
I tried removing the metal trough under the camera hole and everything looks good. I also tried to replicate the problem, but I wasn’t successful.
Has anybody else seen something like this before? I can’t find anyplace where the ball can get stuck, but I’m obviously missing something.
Thanks for any ideas.
I seem to recall someone else with a similar problem years ago. Underneath the mini-playfield there is fish paper (thin cardboard-like sheet) that hides the wiring and switches and prevents the pinball from banging into anything underneath the mini-playfield and causing a potential short or breaking a switch or diode.
If this fish paper gets distorted, torn or bent over the years it can provide an avenue for the pinball to lodge between the fish paper and the mini-playfield and a ball search would not dislodge the pinball. When you lift the playfield it would roll out like you describe. This is just something that you may want to check.
Gord
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:Looks good -- If you end up doing a small run for others I would be interested.
Years ago someone did a run of these, but I haven't seen them available anywhere for several years. I would also be interested in one if you ever offer them for sale.
Gord
Quoted from atg1469:I second the Radcal decision! I recently restored a cabinet for my T2 and that process took every bit of 2 weeks to complete and I still see slight imperfections here and there. The Radcals slapped right on with minimal effort and easily saved me a week or more in time. To be fair, it’s not a turn-key process as they’d lead you to believe (you still have to strip or paint the original cab and drilling the holes for bolts, buttons, etc is tedious) but the end result is far worth the effort IMO.
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That is a very nice looking TZ.
Gord
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Canfield, OH