Well I'm finally in the club, sadly it hasn't been a week and problems are rearing their head....

How power hungry is this game compared to most? I have TZ, BoP, MM-Remake, and Shadow on one circuit in my room but now the dreaded reboots have started.

Here is the breakdown and what I've done

1. This morning I decided to put in the 9.4H rom, powered on only TZ and I noticed that the game was now rebooting when I hit both flippers at the same time.
2. All diodes measure fine across all 4 flippers
3. It looks as if someone has done the BR2 fix
4. I reseated every connector (in backbox and in cabinet) to no avail
5. Ensured all ground screws were tightened down fully (the were not, and some were completely missing)
6. Tried putting the game on an extension cable to a GFI outlet in the garage - totally separate circuit

Still resetting...

I decided to pull and reflow most everything on the power board , sadly this didn't seem to help at all so I moved on to

1.tested wall outlet shows above 115v at all times
2.tested service outlet while on and off - both read above 115v
3.I tested TP2 area and get 5v
4. I test/measure leg 32 on the game ROM - BOOM instant reset

So I decided to pull the CPU board, and there were a bunch of cold joints everywhere including most U areas and CPU

1. I reflowed everything that needed it and most for good measure, especially near leg 32 (solder side)

This appeared to have fixed the reset issue with the game - I can now play for hours and double flipping works fine. I swear after all of this I now notice "blinking/flickering" every time I flip on my games (all LED)

The bad news.....
Now I decide to turn on my other games - they all work fine except Shadow decides to do the same thing (both flippers cause a reset) but ONLY if TZ is on. TZ also reset once while Shadow was being played.

My only guess is that...
1. TZ is way more power hungry than most games and this is normal (I'll need to figure out a way to break them up)
2. Shadow has also developed the "reset" issue for different reasons

Sorry for the wall of text, I'm just pretty frustrated at this point as the games were all fine while being on and played for most of the week and this all started today.

Thanks for the advice and feedback guys I really appreciate it.

Coyote , I can check L1 when I have some time later, Not sure where that location is off the top of my head but I'm a bit spooked to test as last time testing the ROM leg 32, the game decided to restart on me the second I touched it (could have been the main issue all along of course since the ROM swap seemed to coincide with the restarts)

I also talked to my wife and she said a few days ago she noticed the AC unit (outside our house not on the same circuit) struggled to kick on (she heard some buzzing as it was initiating) and a few of the pins restarted as a result. I'm not surprised that happened given the draw, but now I'm wondering if that incident exacerbated the reset issues I'm seeing on these two games now...

Hi all,

So I have a TV mod that came with my TZ and I decided to install it last night.

Model of the keychain is here
https://www.insigniaproducts.com/pdp/NS-DKEYBK10/9376267

Guide that was followed here
http://www.edcheung.com/album/album08/pinball/tz2.htm

I did not leave the battery in the mod because to be quite honest 1. I think it was dead and 2. I don't like the risk of overcharging it

Everything works great except for the fact it doesn't respect the "Auto Off" settings. I don't want it to ever turn off however it does after 5 minutes, no matter if I set it for 0 minutes or 30 minutes.

It's a shame as the mod works great but I can't be pulling the glass and hitting the power button every 5 minutes. Has anyone else with this mod had this issue?

Thanks

I was afraid someone would say that
The sad part was this keychain was new in the box, but it would not hold a charge even after 4+ hours so I figured why bother. Perhaps the software/firmware does a detection and still wants to see it inline somehow?

One thing that seems common in many of the playfield pics I see of this game, the inserts on the door panel, and for the black squares underneath, they appear to be raised, almost looking like a decal sticker - is this common? I'm not sure how they did it back in the day during production, say lay those down and then shoot clear over them for instance.

Thanks, I should have described it better - it basically looks like a mylar sticker (you can see the clear edges almost like a die cut)
I'm wondering if inserts can raise up causing this effect or if it's more the decal was layered then cleared. I know people also sell mylar laminated insert decals as well so just curious how it looked stock from the factory.

Some examples here
http://kcpins.com/archives/856

Chip pullers can be a total pain and most of the time the cheap ones will result in bent or broken rom pins.
IF you decide to go small screwdriver route be very careful not to put the head of the screwdriver in too deep, you will end up scratching, damaging or ruining traces.

Could anyone with a working interlock/coin door switch be able to check the wiring?

My switch was heavily damaged when I received the game, and I've bought a replacement - but it never gives me the warning message.

I'm running the 9.4H rom, but I'd think that wouldnt matter.

I'm running the green/brown wire to the top ON pin, and the white/red to the bottom COM pin.

Thanks in advance

Ah good to know, thanks!
Dumb question, but is there a way to tell without melting my face off?

Reason I ask, the flippers still function with the coin door open.

Thanks for that!
Forgive me for being dense here - so it's normal that the flippers/high voltage work with the coin door open then? I guess I'm trying to understand if the switch even does anything.

Right, but from what I can tell - the game does nothing with that information, everything works.

Thanks again.
I guess I have an older version as there is only the one switch (and based on the wiring and lack of messages) it must be the coin door. Next time I have the playfield up, I'll test the service switches.

I've seen some pics where people have changed the lower inserts above the flippers to appear lime green instead of the yellow - any idea how this is accomplished? I'm guessing 3 or 4SMD Clear blue bulbs?