I have 500 pcbs here again.

I wanna make a special offer for all pinsiders.

The next 20 orders I will sell the board for only 99,00 USD (regular 130,00 USD) including sets of warm-white, cold white and blue Superfluxx-LEDs. So you can spare 43,00 USD to the regular price. Shipping to outside Europe is 8,00 USD instead of 17,00 USD.
The rainbows-LEDs are 14,00 USD.

If you are interested, simply send me a PM.

http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html

Only 7 left of that special deal ...

Thanks Robert!!!

Here is a link to a PDF installation-guide (newest version november 2014):
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/get_file.php?id=28051417&vnr=108585

Please read your PM my friend ....

Sorry, will do tomorrow morning ... promised!!!!

Haha, I am still seeking tirelessly after, what we talked about, but still no success

Here is the installation guide for your board:
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/tz-clock-instruction-english.html

Here you can download a pdf (most actual version);
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/get_file.php?id=28051417&vnr=108585

I have sent you an e-mail.

YES, the optos are installed correct - all notched edges must show outside.

Check your Molex-connector coming from under the playfield and going to the right connector of my board. Often people have there a connector problem, that has nothing to do with my board.

We will get your board running ...

This is part of the e-mail, I have sent Barry today:

"...Hi Barry,

the fault is not on my board, because neither on the old board, nor my board the optos work, same as the GI-LEDs.

You somewhere have a conneector problem or a wiring problem under the playfield or a burnt GI-fuse.

So first we should get the four great GI-LEDs running.

Please post fotos of your power driver board (PDB) connectors J115, J120 + J121. The GI for the clock-LEDs are at connectors J120-9 (white-yellow) and J121-3 (yellow).

BUT first check Fuse F108 (this one is responsible for the GI-string 3) on your power driver board.

Would also be a good idea, to check the other GI-Fuses F106, 107, 109 + 110.

Please report, if the fuse F108 is OK.

You should also follow the yellow and white-yellow wires from the right connector at the clock backwards to the PDB and look, if there is a connector under the playfield somewhere, that has a bad connection.

When we have the 4 big LEDs working, we will go to the optos, OK?

- Ingo ..."

First we should solve the GI-Problem, then we will see, where the fault is in the wiring for the optos.

And Barry confirmed, that it was fuse F108 on the PDB .... What did we all learn, when the clock GI does not work? First check F108

Ingo junior TZ-Clock-Board (resized).JPG

This is my 6 year old son Ingo junior.

Today he soldered his first TZ-clock-board under my assistance. He did a very very good job, all solder joints are perfect.
The board is tested and runs perfect. Same quality as when I had soldered it by myself. PCB is brandnew and has silkscreen October/2016.

As he is dreaming of a new game for his WiiU, he wants to sell the board here in my favorite club.

Ingo is thinking about a price of 95,00 USD. For this price Ingo will add sets of warm-white, cold-white, blue and rainbow color changing LEDs + free shipping worldwide. You save about 50,00 USD to the regular price.

First come first serve.

I am the designer and manufacturer of this board. The board is brandnew with all new parts etc. ....

For more information please look here
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/final-tz-clock-pcb-english.html

or search on pinside for Ingo clock board

I test every board on my tester before shipping, see the tester in action here:

It´s yours. I´ll send you a PM.

Did you check the connectors for a loose wire??

Connectors (resized).jpg

Replacing 3mm by 5mm does not have a really great effect.

Since you are so desperate searching for an improvement, I can offer you, to etch you a little pcb, you glue with a hot glue gun in the center of your RD-board. Before that, you have to desolder the 4 LEDs or simply cut them out; the pre resistors will remain in the RD-board without any function. Then you can hot-glue the little pcb on the top of the RD-board and solder 2 little wires to connector J2, thats all.

The little pcb has the following advantages:

- fully rectified GI voltage
- I use 130° wide angle superfluxx LEDs
- LEDs are all socketed, so simple change between colors is easy
- absolute flicker free lightning
- you can adjust the brightness of the LEDs with a little poti

I use the same circuit and parts as on my professional board. I would like to send you blue, cool-white, warm-white and rainbow color changing LEDs.

To install the mod, should not last longer than 5 minutes, you only should have a bit of soldering skills.

And the best: All will be free for you, so I can "play" a bit and can help you here in my favorite forum; simply send me a PM with your shipping adress.

I will etch the board this weekend, make a little video and then ship to you - IF YOU WANT ...

The board looks as follows and is placed as seen in the following pic

RD MOD TOP (resized).JPG

Thanks for sending the pics; dimensions of the little GI-board are OK.

The sweety should sit on the board like this; 2 solder bridges must be made on the bottom of the board.

Rottendog Umbau (resized).JPG

Already found the time this evening, to etch and build your board. It´s really a sweety and works perfect. I have no time, to make a video now, you can make it, when you got the board.

I did not cut the wires of the parts on the bottom, but bent them a bit, so that the board becomes as flat as possible. Tomorrow I will cut a piece of fish-paper, better we put it between the RD board and our board, to prevent possible short circuits.

For demonstration purpuses only I put the board on an original board and a blank pcb of my professional board.

By the way - the solder-bridges on the bottom of the RD-board (see post #2920) are not necessary, but I would do them.

But pics say more than words - sweet, isn´t it? In 5-8 days it will be in the US.

RD2 (resized).JPG

RD1 (resized).JPGRD3 (resized).JPGRD4 (resized).JPGRD5 (resized).JPGRD6 (resized).JPGRD8 (resized).JPGRD7 (resized).JPGRD9 (resized).JPG

Mate, tomorrow, I will ship your package. Was a bit difficult, to get fishpaper here in germany. I have added 2 different styles of the rainbows, one with dome and one without, you can play a bit with them.

Here is, what I will put in the package:

IMG_0662 (resized).JPG

IMG_0661 (resized).JPG

Hi guys,

I had I guy from Dubai who wanted my TZ-clock-board, but he had special wishes - he wanted the board in white, the pcbs for the molex-connectors in black and other Molex-connectors (he did not want Molex, but instead Mascon/Pancon connector MLAS100-8-C).

I asked him, why he wanted the board in white. He said, that he wanted something exclusive and a better reflection for the colors of the Superfluxx-LEDs. I did some tests before ordering the final boards and he was very satisfied.

So I fullfilled his wishes, here you can see the result:

DSCN001 (resized).JPG

DSCN002 (resized).JPG

DSCN003 (resized).JPG

DSCN004 (resized).JPG

And now best, as I have still 8 white boards here:

Here is my special offer only for members of the pinside TZ-Owner´s Club.

1 X white board (warm white LEDs preinstalled) + 1 set cool white LEDs + 1 set blue LEDs + 1 set rainbow LEDs + shipping

All for 99,00 USD - so you can save about 50,00 USD to the regular price.

First come first serve.

Please send me PM!!!!

The GI-strings are wired this way - hope, that helps.

WPC-GI (2) (resized).jpg

Hi guys,

there has been some demand for my clock board with board color BLUE.

I have made 10 of them, two are already sold, one to the US and the second to the Netherlands.

Nothing is changed on the board itsself, same reliable circuit as always.

Here are some impressions:

IMG_1874 (resized).JPG

IMG_1879 (resized).JPG

IMG_1876 (resized).JPG

Here it is built in a machine (thanks to Frank from the Netherlands):

image1 (resized).JPG

image3 (resized).JPG

Here you see the blue board compared with green and white pcb:

all board colors (resized).JPG

I think, the blue board will look very good with a blue housing.

And now the best, here is a very special offer only for members of this pinside TZ-Owners-Club:

The special offer for the next 6 (!!!!) BLUE boards is as follows, so you get the following:

1 X BLUE board (warm white LEDs pre-installed) + 1 set cool white LEDs + 1 set blue LEDs + 1 set rainbow LEDs + shipping.

All for 99,00 USD - so you can save about 50,00 USD to the regular price.

First come first serve.

Please simply send me PM!!!!

All available from Ed at GPE for for good prices:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37

The pitch is .156.

Have sent you a PM.

And yes, warm-white LEDs are preinstalled, the other colors have been a gift for you. Changing to cold-white will take you one minute only.

Take your DMM, put it to AC voltage and do the following measurements and tell us the results (but first check Fuse F108 for GI-string 3):

Test 1 (resized).JPG

Test 2 (resized).JPG

You are right. Now follow the yellow and yellow/white cables from the clock connector on its way to power driver board: I am not sure, but on this way there should be a connector under the playfield, might be it is loose or corroded. Keep us updated.

PS.:
I suppose, you took your measurements at the female Molex-connector, and not at the male pins of clock board, correct??

I am NOT sure, if there is a connector under the playfield, but I think it is.

Clock-GI is string 3, please look at my grafic here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/general-illumination-circiut-wpc-grafically-illustrated

You can further check at J120 or J121 on PDB, if string 3 is OK.

DMM to AC!!! voltage, cables of your DMM to pin3 and pin9, you should measure araoun 6,3VAC - if not, fault is on your PDB, otherwise on the way from J120/121 on its way to the clock.

Should be an easy to solve problem, so no panic

PS.:
Fuse F108 is OK?? Fuse-Holder F108 is not cracked??

Could you post a photo of your connectors J115, J120/J121

Please make us a photo of the wiring of these bulb sockets from inside the backbox.

Also make photos of J120/J121 !!!!!

You can also try the following:
Put Connector J120 into J121 - what happens?
Put connector J121 into J120 - what happens?

Neal_W : Good find and repair.

There also seem to be some cracked solder joints to look at ...

cracked (resized).jpg

Here is an absolute awesome video made by my friend René (pinsider @starwarrior).

This video is the best I have ever seen - perfect demonstration of "servicing" the clock (cleaning and lubricating the gears) and clock-board replacement.

I think, we have all been waiting for a video like this - thanks René, you are the greatest.

Sometimes it can also be a contact problem with the flatcable between fliptronics-board and cpu-board. Reseat this cable a few times.

NO diodes? I think, the 2 diodes on the flipper coil MUST be at the coil!!!!!

Q4 and Q11 is correct.

Q4 = TIP 36C
Q11 = TIP 102

Please check at first, if the diodes on your coil are OK. Please post a photo oy your coil and coil wiring.

If you change the transistors, it would be good practice, to also change BR1.

My tip goes towards BR1!!!!

Read post #6163 again, I added text

Measure the diodes or change them directly on suspicion.

Mate, please send me again an e-mail or a PM please (if you PM me, please tell me your e-mail adress, so can find you in my e-mail-account). I am sure, I have sent you a "normal" letter with the LEDs. No problem for me, to send you again some LEDs.

EDIT: Just checked my PMs and asked my wife. She said, that your cold white LEDs are shipped about 3 weeks ago. When you do not get them in the next 5 days, give me feedback and we will try new, this time with tracking.

Here is a
Special offer blue (resized).jpg
for my Twilight Zone Clock Board - only for members of this TZ-Owners-Club and only for this week:


Available are 8 white and 8 green boards.

Here is my special deal:

1 X WHITE board (warm white LEDs preinstalled) + 1 set cool white LEDs + 1 set blue LEDs + 1 set rainbow LEDs + shipping

or

1 X GREEN board (warm white LEDs preinstalled) + 1 set cool white LEDs + 1 set blue LEDs + 1 set rainbow LEDs + shipping

All for 110,00 USD - so you can save about 40,00 USD to the regular price.

Please send me PM!!!!


Here are the boards:
6 + 6 TZ Clock Boards (resized).jpg

WHITE board:
white clock board 2 german-pinball-modular (resized).jpg

GREEN board:
Green clock Board (resized).jpg

Perfect illumination:
white clock board 1 (resized).jpg

RAINBOW color changing LEDs look fantastic:
white board with rainbows (resized).jpeg

Short reminder for my special offer, that ends today, here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/128#post-4603925

5 boards are still available ....

Hi Scott,

it very rarely can happen, that one of the rainbow LEDs can fail; these have a built in microcontroller and are sensitive against over voltage. Mightbe, one was a bit "weak" from factory.

You cannot get the rainbows elsewhere as they are manufactured specially for me.

No problem for me, to send you a new set of rainbows for free. You should not have hesitated to ask me - I do not bite

Simply PM me your adress and you will get 4 new ones!!!

- Ingo

Send me a PM and I will make you a very special offer for today and you can save a lot of money

- Ingo

Here is my BLACK FRIDAY Special Deal for TZ-Clock-Board

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-clock-board-black-friday-2018-very-special-deal-#post-4699585

Do you have the original clock board built in or an aftermarket-board? You have at least 1 bad opto.

So far, everyone has managed to install a clock board; it´s no miracle and easy to do with the instructions, I have sent you via PM ...

It can be perfectly seen here on the site of Dr. Ed Cheung (really great site):

http://www.edcheung.com/album/album08/pinball/tz.htm

Thanks mate for the feedback ... and I learned a new englsh word, I have never heard before ..."chamfered" ... should improove my installation guide

Oops, that should not happen. You are one of the very few who reports such a "problem".

What optos did you have to change? One on the bottom- or top side of the board?

I have used more than 10000 Optos TCST1103 in the last 15 years, and very very seldom an opto failed, these are very reliable. Mightbe, we had a bad charge of a few optos.

If that should happen again, we will change your board on my costs. Simply send me PM then!!!!

If you only want to change the origianl bulbs, mightbe, the installation guide for my clock board caan help you disassembling the clock, see here:

https://www.german-pinball-modular.de/tz-clock-instruction-english.html

This is NOT true!!!! If you look at the PMs, my last PM I have sent you was PM #29 and I never did get an answer from you!!!!

This is NOT true!!!! None of my boards is shipped defective, all boards are tested extensively on my test bench and in my TZ Pinball machine before shipping.

Just send the allegedly defective board back to me at my expense and I will refund the purchase price at once. Then you no longer need to look at your decoration board and I no longer have to be annoyed with your destructive comments.

Fullfilled the special wish for a guy from Canada - first RED clock board ever produced - I think, will look good in a red clock housing ...

Take care and stay healthy my friends!!!!!!!

RED Board TOP (resized).jpg

RED Board BOTTOM (resized).jpg

You can get them from me. What problems do you have, with what colors?? Do you have my board and when did you buy it???

Can you make a very good photo of your clock board, so that I can see the top of the board. I cannot remeber, that you bought my board. You must not take you board out, try to make a good photo through the playfield glass, I mus see, if on the top left of the board there a 8 little control LEDs!!! If these LEDs are not there, it is not my board!!!! Nethertheless, I will help you, to get your red LEDs ...

- Ingo

Thanks!!!

Yes, that is my board.

Mightbe, that the sockets have become a bit week over time. Please take the 2 right LEDs out and gently bend the 4 legs of the LEDs slightly outwards for 1/2 mm or so and then insert the LEDs again, these should then sit a little more firmly and securely in the sockets.

If that doesn't help, I will solder 4 new sockets for you for free after the end of the covid-19 crisis. But please try to do the little bending first and post a photo ... I want the four red LEDs see lightning

The LEDs should have a notched edge and this must show to the LEFT side for all LEDs, imprint on board is "C"!!!

Your LAMP 4, that actually lights up, is NOT installed correct!!!!!!!

Attached is the installation guide!!!
Installation Guide INGO TZ-Clock-Board NOVEMBER 2014.pdf

These should work for you:

ebay.com link: 100pcs Piranha Flat Top LED Diode Red 4pin Super Flux Lights

After Covid-19 crisis you will gte bthe red ones I use ...

Good job man!!!!!

I always use a 1000uF cap at C31, brings more stability ....