(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago

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  • 604 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Coyote
  • Topic is favorited by 324 Pinsiders


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#4725 2 years ago

Question - Did all your playfields have the two sided rubber-like tape under the ramps? Redoing my PF and my game had this tape under the ramp entrances and not sure if someone added it later, or if that was factory.

Also, it seems factory from the manual, but the plastic that wraps around the right ramp and sits between the ramps.. it has a extra tall stand-off that raises the plastic up so it's not flat. Everyone's like that? I guess it's raised to stop ball traps? Trying to figure out why it's bent like that. Makes deciding if I want to use my NOS plastics more of a PITA

IMG_3745 (resized).JPG

#4729 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I have never seen that tape under a ramp flap, although I've never inspected an original untouched B/W game.
That plastic can break; may be worth using your original plastic there and keeping the NOS in reserve. Plus you don't need to re-bend it and risk it snapping. TZ is a dark enough nobody will ever be able to tell its an older plastic, just clean it up with Novus

Quoted from Coyote:

Here -
Yes, the foam tape under the ramp flaps was standard back then. My playfield had it on until two years ago, when HEP re-did my PF. I don't know it's purpose, honestly.
And yes, the post is there, to lift it up. So if any ball falls between the ramps, it will roll down back to the playfield - the gumball tunnel. In a home environment, you don't need it.

Thanks for the quick replies guys. The tape is under the ramp looked official . My guess is it allows the ramp mount to be snug yet adjusted slightly.

The plastic I'm mainly just reusing my existing pieces so I'll do the same here. Just some are interesting... like the standoffs in the shooter lane under the red plastic... another area I'm unsure why they used various heights there... but confirmed in the manual.

1 week later
#4754 2 years ago

Putting my game back together (its close!! waiting on rails delivered tomorrow). I just noticed a connector I can't remember seeing at all before.

Near the harness just above the flipper area, there is a yellow with orange stripe pair of wires going into a SINGLE round pin connector. Molex style, almost looks like a barrel connector.. but the same wire going in and out into a single terminal. I can't remember ANYTHING in this game with a single terminal. Again, off the harness just above the flipper area, below the door panel. Any ideas?

Yellow-Orange is Column 3 in the lamp matrix.. but all the lamps on that column are on PCBs... except the Door 'Gum' light. I replaced the gum/ball lights with pin gizmo flashers nearly 20 years ago. Is this the connector for the old Gum lamp?

#4758 2 years ago

Has anyone had success with the GLM switch kit for the mini pf with titan silicon rubbers?

Using these bands, they just seem too thick and it presses the brackets outwards to the point they actually conflict with the hangers the pf mounts too. Tony gave me some hints, but I just can't get the alignment to physically work... let alone be adjusted for the switches.

Anyone else been down this road?

#4760 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

I put Titan rubbers on mine. I just had to pull the slack on the rubber to the front, for the switches on the mini Playfield. Also might be the rubbers are too tight, maybe go up in size/length.

The issue I'm having is that the bracket sticks too far out over the edge of the PF making it basically impossible to get it inside the mounting brackets. Even scooting the bracket in as far as possible its still jammed up and makes adjusting the switch impossible to find a spot that works.

The thickness of the rubber, plus the star post, plus the bracket just made it hang out far.

2 weeks later
#4792 2 years ago

Had an interesting ball trap tonight. Knockerlover managed to air ball the ball into the triangle are between the ramps where the ball sat down on the red plastic underneath.

I've never seen the ball go down there, and from all my image searching I don't see any games with anything there to prevent it. You only have that metal vertical plate between the ramps. The plastic does have a hole at the edge, but I've not seen a game with anything filing or blocking the gap.

IMG_3846 (resized).JPG

Any suggestions?

I also have not seen any successful posts on where those other small clear plastics go (beyond the one on the shooter lane)

1 week later
#4807 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

flynnibus, that plastic should have a taller spacer in it neat the bottom (on the edge nearer the ramp entrances) to slope it up.
Balls that land in there shouldn't get stuck - they should roll up (back) to the gumball tumnel entrance.

The plastic does have the tall stand off up front (which effectively bends the plastic). I've never had a ball go in there in 20 years until that one...

2 weeks later
#4843 2 years ago
Quoted from Bowlingpin:

Having an issue with camera shot hole/scoop..
Getting a few rejects here and there. Am I right thinking there should be no play with this? It kind of hinges...

Should be solid... but doubt it's rejecting all the way back there. The ball goes far before it hits the scoop.

1 week later
#4873 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I want to replace the incandescent bulb in the start button with LED. The white 555 I have is too large to fit. I have other colored LEDs that are thinner but can't remember where I got them. Are they from Marco, Pinball Life or Cointaker? I can't tell from the pictures on their sites. Thanks.

I just took a mini and shaved it with the sander. But I'd tell you don't waste your energy... the start buttons don't really look any different LED'd unless you goto a fugly cool white which with the yellow button makes it greenish.

#4887 2 years ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

I put a light condom over my bulbs and it's been fine so far.

Its what i do as well. Frosted bulb with original condom put over it.

1 week later
#4931 2 years ago
Quoted from rkahr:

That was yours at York this year, just a few games down from where my vendor booth was set up, right? It was awesome!
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my Pinball 2000 H+V video sync combiner kit
-check out my Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2111218102/pinball-pyramid?ref=bcsjqr

Don't worry... next week is house league and you'll get to soak in mine as much as you want

3 weeks later
#4967 2 years ago

So here is a trick to help people..

Tonight I had to dive into the Geneva switch in the gumball.. which can be a real PITA.

For those who don't know, the Geneva Switch is a micro-switch with blade attached to the bottom of the gumball machine and is a common fail point. The ugly part is the switch is basically right next to the playfield, and the switch is held on with a backing plate. And removing the entire gumball machine not only takes major disassembly on the topside... getting the gumball machine out the playfield hole with the switch attached is super sketchy. So taking the gumball out is not really an option... and working with it under the PF is really frustrating. Getting the switch off is easy, getting it back on due to the backing plate and no room.. ugh.

So after taking the switch off, adjusting the blade and verifying its operation in test... I have to get the switch back on, while holding in position, and trying to somehow place the backing plate.

Well here is my simple solution..

I took a piece of 1/16" thick acrylic I had lying around... and broke off a small piece. I then put a piece of two sided tape on it, and then put the backing plate on the tape. This game me a nice little sheet I could use to position the plate.. It let me reach behind the bracket where you can't get your fingers in.. it held the backing plate secure and let me adjust the position. And even better.. the thickness was almost perfect in that the plate just held in place with friction, so I didn't even have to hold it while I positioned the screw and switch!

Check it out

Just small plate with two sided tape..
IMG_3968 (resized).JPG

And here it is holding the backing plate in place for me with no hands needed
IMG_3966 (resized).JPG

Use this idea anytime you need to hold those impossible plates in place where you just can't get your hands!

3 weeks later
#5084 2 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Yup, I just don't know what I should expect I guess. My TZ is the first HUO pin I've owned, never seen it elsewhere in an environment where you could really get a sense of how loud it was, etc.
I think if I was going to take the clock apart to lube I'd do the whole Ingo board replacement at the same time. My clock is very slightly out of alignment too (the hour hand points more towards 11 than 12 when it's supposed to be 12) so thinking of killing several birds with one stone, so to speak.

The clock is loud... especially at startup because there is no other noise. You never hear it it a loud environment but in a silent home you do. During a game play it doesn't really stand out.

The info board is worth it if you are led'ing the game or have a hacked or flakey clock. I had an all original clock and housing for 20 years in home use without ever a problem... but I put an ingo board in and a new clear housing just for athestics when I overhauled my game.

Do not lube your gears. They are not intended to be lubicrated and it is not necessary. Nylon gears do not need lube!

#5094 2 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Thanks. You're the first person to say not to lube the gears

Parrots repeat what they heard, not necessarily what they know

The gearbox requires no protection against corrosion. Lubrication does not flush debris or wear bits in this case, or provide any form of cooling. That's normally what lube is for. Here it only does two things... 1) provide a means to COLLECT dirt and debris and 2) reduce chatter by 'filling' the voids. Most people will end up using lubricants that will harm the plastic more than help it. The clock gearing is so slow and infrequent it doesn't need it. In short... more people will screw it up than benefit.

Or you can listen to Clay... http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm#lube
"As a general rule, keep this in mind for EM moving parts: Metal to metal lube is OK. nylon to metal NO lube. Nylon to nylon NO lube. And NEVER EVER lubricate the moving metal plungers inside coils (even if the metal plunger is moving inside a metal coil sleeve). Also NEVER lubricate the gears of the score motor.

In regards to nylon, all reference I find from professional plastics companies speak of nylon as "no lubrication required." In fact they mention how nylon can be worn by various greases that collect dust and act as an abrasive paste. There is also a concern about nylon expanding when it it lubricated. This is just more evidence that you should not lubricate any nylon parts."

Yes, modern Synthetics will generally be safer to use with the plastic bits.. but there is no need to. You have more to lose than to gain. The clock gearing will run for DECADES dry.

#5096 2 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I don't have a problem with my clock currently, but it is bone stock (apart from the two ventilation holes that have been added by a previous owner) so I imagine it will fail at some point. My whole game with the exception of the flashers (and that is changing once my Comet order turns up) is LED, so there is probably an argument for doing it for completeness and "preemptive strike" sake.

The clock runs warm when ran for extended periods and in a stressful (warm) environment. In most Home Use scenarios... the deficiency in the design won't cause new problems.. but many have been stressed long before they moved into a home situation. The Optos are problematic and difficult to replace effectively. The stock lights are soldered and LED conversion is a bit messy. Most clock housings are quite aged. The thing is when the clock optos go.. the game is really hard to debug because of how the optos are on the switch matrix so weird things happen. Those are the fears about old clocks. But if your clock is stable, it will likely stay that way in a reasonable home use situation. Upgrades with the Indgo board are more about future proofing and LED conversion. Clock looks great with a fresh housing, decal, and LEDs

#5100 2 years ago
Quoted from Durzel:

What's the consensus on clear (OEM) clock housing vs blue? I'm not totally sold on the blue & rainbow LEDs which most people seem to do, but at the same time the blue housing looks a lot clearer than the OEM "clear" (which is more like misted) housing. Thoughts?

There isn't a consensus.

Crystal clear casing is the usual upgrade... then the color variations

#5135 2 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone selling a plastic replacement for the carboard mini playfield bottom cover? Mine is a little beat up and not looking so good.

You can trace it and just cut with a jig saw with material from Home Depot. I started to do it, and just went back to the oem material. I didn't think the difference was worthy

#5149 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

My thoughts too. I was stunned when I noticed cardboard. Any ideas why that was a choice?

It's purely for electrical insulation for the elements mounted on the bottom of the mini pf

#5206 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

Two questions:
1) is the clock board easy to swap out?
And is there a guide or video anywhere online.
2) I can't find a crystal clear clock housing. Can anyone help me ?

Might be a stocking issue right now. Last fall I got it from mantis amusements. I know multiple people carried them. Little shop of games... even baa I think.

Clock boards are easy. Follow the manual for removing the clock. One screw secures it... you undo the molexes under the playfield... the whole assembly comes out.

Trick is to make sure clock is at 12:00 before starting and not losing the pins when taking the hands out.

#5263 2 years ago
Quoted from jzdziarski:

I get the power consumption thing, but have yet to see any proof that running LEDs substantially increases the life of any of the electronics significantly. There are far higher loads put on these boards from the coils and motors to worry about GI. You’re more likely to wear down other components first than a hypothetical benefit from a minor load change to the GI.
By the time you add in all the mods, an OCD board, pinsound, etc, you’ve already lost any tiny benefit you may have gained over running low power incandescent.

You are thinking total power in the game. The issue with GI is that particular subsystem was strained in the original design. So reducing load on those loops alone has material impact on the game. You reduce the heat and resistance issues that happen on the GI connectors on the board. You also lower heat output which for games left on for extended periods is a real benefit. Hotter components tend to run with more resistance... which in turn generates more heat... and the cycle builds.

Plus, if you use the correct bulbs - you get an oem look with a fresh, brighter look.

#5276 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

There is one screw holding on the base metal plate. It is located just below the (normal position for the) yellow light.
You will have to remove the 'mod' to get the clock off.
Unscrew the screw, then SLIDE the metal plate with the clock BACK (away from player, towards back ot game) to free the catch.

What he said

One screw holds the plate... accessible to the front and on top of the piano hole area. Near the piano light. The the plate slides... it's held under tabs. If you can't get to that screw... remove whatever mods you have blocking it.

1 month later
#5565 1 year ago

Check out this new upcoming clock mod... Mirror face clock

IMG_4153 (resized).jpg

Read my thread about it here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-tz-clock-mod-mirrored-face

2 weeks later
#5617 1 year ago
Quoted from thedoctor:

Never understood why they call it the anti-flow game. My machine's pretty well dialed in, the only time I catch the ball is out of the slot machine for a split second.

Because of the stop n go nature of the modes and shots.

Gumball, Piano, Slot Machine, Camera, Dead-end, Power ramp - all shots that go and STOP then do something to return the ball in play. The game has a lot of 'stop and watch the screen' stuff.. which some people don't like.

#5618 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

My biggest issue with TZ is actually nothing to do with how it plays, it's anxiety that there's so much on the PF that it feels like at any moment something will break.

I've owned TZ for 20 years - its actually the most reliable game I've owned.

#5640 1 year ago
Quoted from Harvey27:

Just purchased Twilight zone; new to pinside. Very happy with purchase. Also have Addams Family; I'm new to owning machines but my wife and I loved playing them in college together and couldn't resist.
one quick question : on the system test getting a message to check switch 55 for gumball geneva; the gumball machine seems to work flawlessly - can there be a false positive on the system check?
Sorry to ask for help on my first post..

The game can compensate for this switch being broken. If you flip up the playfield and look at the base of the gumball machine, on the left side (near cabinet wall) there will be a switch mounted to the gumball machine base that is parallel with the playfield surface. It has a long blade on the inside. It gets triggered as the cam plate in the gumball machine rotates through it's positions. The blade should be long enough that you can attempt to trigger the switch manually in that you can reach it through some of the openings/gap. Put the game in test mode and see if the switch triggers when you move the blade.

Because the switch is so near the edge of the cabinet, it's very common for it's connection to get damaged moving the playfield. The blade itself can get broken, or it could just need a bend to make sure it's getting moved enough by the cam. Look at it's connections and use the test mode (gumball or just switch edge test) to see if it can register.

#5650 1 year ago

sand paper... hold the piece in your hand and rub it back and forth across the paper on the table.

Suprised it's that tight.. I mean the factory plate has to sit there too. Are you trying to use both the factory plate (with integrated stand-offs) and the new clock face?

Other designs use stand-offs since making the integrated design is harder.

2 weeks later
#5758 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

what are you guys doing with this battery. i am thinking of just cutting it and doing a remote battery box, i was reading about nvram but i am not keen on risking the board by doing a poor soldering job, or would you just replace this battery?

Looks like some sort of capacitor or recharable battery.. but this game wouldn't have a charging circuit... so not sure what the thinking is there.

For TZ because the clock is so central, I'd suggest cutting it off, and just mounting a remote battery holder with lithium batteries. Mount the batter holder on the side of the head.

#5776 1 year ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Make sure to mount it high enough to leave room for GI-OCD board if you ever plan on installing one in the future.
ALSO: If you have a Sample/Prototype game, I believe the 8-driver expansion board is here as well on TZ
(Image courtesy of LED-OCD)

You mean like this?
tz-batt (resized).png

#5777 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Don't the GI OCD instructions talk about it being mounted at the bottom (along with the LED OCD one) ?

The GI board uses a board and an interconnect. The big board is best on the side, the interconnect is on the bottom of the head.

tz-gi (resized).png

You can see my install here -

- ocd (mini) is on the right side..

#5788 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No - serial number decals would have said 240v, 50Hz. There's even a picture of one somewhere in this thread, if I recall correctly?
No extra transformer is needed. The plug that plugs into the main transformer would just need a few wire/jumper changes, and the game would support 240v. (Plus, the little varistor in the power supply would have to be changed. My brain is friend, for some reason I can't recall the name of that darn thing. Anyone?)
The pop bumper posts were there, not there, there again, ad nausea during production. No way to really know *for sure*.

The varister, fuse size, service outlet, and transformer plug jumpers vary for the export games. And yes, like you posted, the isolation transfer was country specific requirement. And the mpu jumpers toofor language

1 week later
#5837 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

What are the “GLM powerfield switches”?

Instead of the big switch assembly (and grey rubber cap) on the mini-pf, the switches are tiny micro switches that stay inside the bracket. So you get a 'clean look' for your mini-pf

1 week later
#5864 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

Hey guys, I've got an issue where balls can get stuck on the pdi robot mod between the robot itself and the flipping mech.

Apart from removing the mod does anyone have any nice idea on stopping the ball from getting stuck? It can happen on both sides.
Basically the ball, when hit hard up the leading ramp slams into the flipping mech. It then sometimes goes back the direction it came before rolling to the mech again. Sometimes the mech will then flip the ball inti these locations.

changing the slope of the ramp can help minimize how much time the ball hangs out there vs being in the divertor.. might help minimize.

#5890 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Also, is it normal for GI not to dim at all in test mode (with Adjustment 25 "Allow GI dimming" set to YES, I know that affects test mode too) when using LEDs? I'm using Comet LEDs, possibly non-ghosting in all of the GI. It turns off and on no problem, but dim levels do nothing. Running 9.4H.

Yes and thats why we have the gi led ocd boards from herg

Cant do dimming with the leds without it. Turn off dimming or add the gi board

#5901 1 year ago
Quoted from Harvey27:

I'm new to repairs and would appreciate if anyone could point me in the right direction.
My left lower flipper suddenly went weak and slow. Pushing in the left button part way it had a slow and weak response.
The upper right flipper is inconsistent and some games will lag when trying to make camera shot (with left upper flipper held open) but other games works fine - right upper flipper only fails in that situation and non consistently.
The right upper I can deal with as a peculiarity of my machine but left lower I've got to fix.
Any tips on if I start troubleshooting coil problem or do I rebuild flipper?
I purchased flipper rebuild kit and have some online tutorials to review but not sure if that's where I should start.
Thanks for any advice


May just have a broken wire.. or binding. Slow typically means lacking high power. Look at the link above to get some general understanding of flipper theory

#5907 1 year ago
Quoted from kstairmantis:

Hey i have an NOS twilight translite mint new never in a game signed by Youssi. What is something like that worth ?

Probably 150+

The repos are OOS currently - so those in need... that said I couldn’t sell my used original at all at Allentown.

1 week later
#5952 1 year ago
Quoted from DW3000:

If I go this route, I'd be getting an LED-OCD and a GI-OCD and likely do it during my upcoming playfield swap.
Like, I know how to make it look like it obviously DOES have LEDs and how to make it look bright and intense and the way I don't want it to look -- but if I'm going for the stock look, what are some good options and things to avoid? I'd likely go with Comet LEDs, warm white - mayyyybe some sunlight in the backbox since my translite is already coming across fairly yellow/warm with the incandescents (I've put some GE 545 blinkers in the backbox and they aren't *quite* as yellow as the Eiko #555 bulbs, so that's what gave me that idea).
Is it best to just throw warm white pretty much everywhere if I want a stock look? Frosted? Should I be color matching some of the inserts/door panels or the piano/gumball/spiral rubbered lights for the best look? If I go LED, I ultimately want it to look pretty much like a stock machine with standard bulbs, so no cool-white or purple/blue/color-change anywhere.
Mostly, I'm hoping that someone has done this and has some tips or even some photos. I've seen a lot of photos of LED'd TZ machines, but not too many showing the natural look, and fewer still showing what a person went through to acheive it. Worst case scenario, I'm also perfectly fine leaving it incandescent unless it can be made to look really close - I'm already rebuilding a lot of the wear-parts and mechs, so my wallet wouldn't mind that option either.

To keep it stock looking, simply use warm white bulbs, and use clear domed bulbs where lights are visible. Use the bulb condoms instead of colored LEDs on the signs, etc.

LED OCD is a must. I use warm white frosted from cointaker, and use dual flex head for larger inserts. I use their clear dome retros anywhere a bulb is visible.

You can see how my game looks in this video

#5972 1 year ago
Quoted from DW3000:

Do you have any kind of pic of what the clear-dome lights look like installed and lit? I was trying to see in that video, but wasn't really catching it much. Also, you don't notice those clear-dome to be too harsh or directional and less diffused than even a clear incandescent?
Everything looks great there, and yeah the LED-OCD is definitely a must-have. I wouldn't even be considering this otherwise.

It's effectively impossible to take a photo of the lit LED in the game that looks any different due to the inadequacies of the camera to capture that contrast.

The Cointaker retros look effectively like a incandescent in terms of dome/spot in person. I use them explicitly because they DO look stock vs the white dome lights. Look great in person. Zero concerns about spot-lighting, directional, etc. On an aside, I find that more important when the socket is not facing the lighting direction (think horizontal bulb under the PF).. and always use frosted in those situations.

The lights can still be bright when you stare at them compared to a #47 bulb.. but they have the right balance. That's why "brighter is better" thinking isn't always what you want.. and all these "how can I get the brightest bulb design..." efforts are goofy IMO. The two SMD designs popular today are PLENTY IMO. The retro bulbs use one large SMD in a clear dome.

1 week later
#5992 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I found this dangling under my playfield. A quick glance, I’m not seeing anywhere to connect it to...before I start my wild goose chase, anyone know where it might belong?

If memory serves... there is a free one like that. Just do a lamp and coil test if you need extra confirmation

#6014 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I hate to say it, but there is a very noticeable difference between the quality of parts made today, and what was made back when WMS was in business.
When I had the playfield restored, and while reassembling everything, I noticed that the trough eject kicker was worn. It still worked, sure, but was very sloppy. It was original - so, it had just about 25 years of use on it. So, i ordered a new one and used it in installation.
2 years later, I notice while playing that the kicker is starting to bind. Huh. Start taking the kicker apart - coil looks good, sleeve good. Take the kicker arm off the playfield - it's binding. It's sticking and sloppy on the arm. It's pretty much toast. So, I have to get ANOTHER kicker arm to replace ont that only lasted two years. Fack me.

Yeah... I’m not a fan of bulk replacing for this very reason. Plus most do it simply for clean looks verse actually failing/wear.

If it’s lasted 25 years... it’s doing something right

1 month later
#6077 1 year ago

The original lamp board light design works explicitly on AC voltage because the diodes make one set turn on one side of the wave.. the other on the second half. (the diodes there make that happen). Check the AC voltage and I guess continuity on the board.

I ordered the ingo board when I went LED.. and am very happy with it.. even tho my original board and clock were still fine.

#6086 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

So Ingo's board has been documented as working - Herg noted the "Pinball Lizard" board as explicitly having a polarization issue (i.e. it is reversed), and I have this other, great board that lights the clock perfectly, but it appears to be based ON the dang Pinball Lizard board!! So I broke out the 'ol Rottendog, which works kinda/sorta but is not as bright, nor does it light the clock evenly. Arrrgh. Well at least it works. I am hesitant to shell out another $150 for Ingo's board, if for no other reason than that this will make the FOURTH board I have for this clock.

Going from memory... the Rottondog is just a tweak of the original design... so it works on the same principles with some component swaps around the optos. So I would expect the two to work the same minus defects and voltage tolerances.

I'm wondering if you have just simple voltage drop due to connectors or localized faults. i'd be checking voltages and continuity on the board itself.

1 week later
#6124 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Ver. 94CH game ROM. I did a factory reset: Whenever I go into the slot machine or piano, it starts Lost In The Zone multiball.
Does the default LITZ setting change that back to normal, or are there other settings that are needed to bring the game back to normal?
Talk about racking up points...can't imagine why you'd want that going. One ball could last all day....

The litz cheat requires holding the button at the start... it shouldn't happen anytime you start a game. LITZ cheat is an adjustment setting.

You might have a stuck button...

2 weeks later
#6216 1 year ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Fair enough. I meant more than the failure condition for a flasher is that it fails on, melting plastic if left unresolved. I don't know if failing on is something that electronically just happens?

Transistors that fail to shorting... is a trait of one way they can fail. Since it failed to short, the circuit is connected to ground.. and lamp stays on.

What condition a circuit fails to is a long part of pinball history in terms of highs and lows.. but here since the transistor's job is to complete the circuit, fusing is how they prevent it from becoming catastrophic. But in the case of flashers and plastics... heat usually arrives before the power draw pops the fuse.

#6223 1 year ago

Just get some raw stock and make it yourself with a vise. Or if feeling adventurous... beg, plead, and throw money at Kerry Stair @mantis amusements and see if he'll make it for you But I know in the past he needs volume to do a part.. but this thing is so dead simple... maybe you'll get him on a generous day.

Me, I'd say get some steel, drill, cutting wheel, file, and a bench vise and just bend it yourself. It's buried under the mini PF, no one sees it.

1 week later
#6251 1 year ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I'm sure everyone knew this but me, but was playing my TZ tonight and when you are in the multi-ball where you hit jackpot with the piano shot, if you hit the Powerball in there it doubles your jackpot. Got 70 million tonight from that. Just another cool thing I never knew about the game.

Yup, also start with a higher jackpot value by locking 3 balls before starting MB

#6270 1 year ago
Quoted from DW3000:

I have a couple questions about fasteners sizes/types/etc, and hope someone knows the answers..
First, what fastener/config is used to attach the right ramp to the powerfield? This is right after the bridge diverter as the wireform leads onto the mini-of. Mine just has the hole but nothing there to hold it, so not sure of screw size/type/length, and what’s on the underside also.
Also, what screw size and length are those mini Philips screws that attach ramp flaps to the main playfield?

It's just a machine screw... look at the manual for specs possibly or just fit one. It sits recessed in the hole and just threads into the wireform itself if memory serves. Probably a 32 thread count screw.. maybe a #8

#6276 1 year ago
Quoted from DW3000:

Yeah that’s one I can’t track down in the manual - doesnt seem to list in either the handbook, manual, or grey parts catalog.
I’m also curious if it has an integrated star/lock washer in the fastener, too..

It mounts to wood, so it would be a washer, not star or lock in anyway. Sorry, I pulled up the manual afterwards and see they don't show the wireform in the mini PF drawing. I don't have the game open right now, but it's nothing special in my example. Just get a panhead screw about 1" long that fits

2 months later
#6622 1 year ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Has anyone ever replaced the ball gate flaps on the shooter and auto-plunger lane?
I can't seem to work out how you remove the steel pin & have already broken it at the end
I think mine was wrong from the factory! The auto-plunge lane being the wrong type.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

ends must be pinched to round them out.. or cutoff. It's not a in/out part... designed to be permanent. Usually you can squeeze them enough to get them back through, and then flatten again to reinstall. Or get new wire, and make replacements.

#6627 1 year ago
Quoted from DW3000:

Is there anything to look for on the skill-shot scoop that might make a person want to replace it? Say, if my welds are undamaged, there’s no reason to upgrade it, is there?
Reason being, I’m going to do an order from Mantis and figured if this is something to look into I might as well add it and only pay shipping once.
I can’t see that this scoop would take much damage generally, so figured I’d check if this is something preventative to get, or only needed if the original is trashed.

Scoop fails where the sides are welded to the curved overhead piece. The Mantis scoop is stronger and re-enforced. In home use, it's not as likely an unbroken scoop will fail.. so the upgrade isn't necessary, but would simply be for piece of mind.

That scoop doesn't take nearly the abuse the slot machine does.

2 weeks later
#6699 1 year ago
Quoted from sgorsuch:

Yes in the test mode -all optos register forward and reverse, both in slow and fast mode.

you can still have other switch matrix issues causing the clock fault that would not be reported in just the clock test mode because you aren't seeing all the switch hits in that test. Broken clock comes on when it sees opto triggers when it doesn't think it should, or they are missing. It's not just a matter of 'switch hits' in test, but that they come on WHEN expected, and not any other times.

#6719 1 year ago
Quoted from McSquid:

lots of talk about clock boards here, Im still in the parts gathering phase of my massive TZ project. Is there any reason that the original board cannot be modded and have LEDs soldered in to eliminate the heat issues? Is heat the only point of common failure on these boards? I have two original boards and Id rather save money vs buying a new board. I'm no stranger to board repair, but I want to make sure I know the whole story.

The light sockets must be replaced to put LEDs in. Unless you put in something with diffusers or light spreaders... you'll get hot spots in the lighting. Not sure if the half-wave lighting design of the board will lead to LED flicker.. possible.

Second, you'll still be stuck with optos that are NLA and replacements require ugly hacks

Third, you'll still be stuck with the compromise design of the original board that lacks switch isolation for the optos leading to high risk failures and of course the challenges of switch matrix troubleshooting if that becomes an issue.

Where as with the ingo board, all of those things are addressed... you get easily replaced parts, easy lighting options, and new features like the test features.

In the era of paying $40 for a plastic toy... the replacement clock board is the best money you can spend on your TZ fore reliable future operation.

2 months later
#6879 12 months ago
Quoted from MMP:

A live & learn moment for me. I am posting so hopefully someone else may avoid the same mistake. I should have started with some simple green or something lighter first to remove the glue residue. Instead I used some liquid goof off and roasted this plastic in about 5 minutes. I was relieved to see that Pinbits has some sort of replacment, and I also picked up their door flasher upgrade while shopping.
[quoted image]

Don't worry - looks like that was a repo part anyways... as it doesn't have the plastic posts attached like the original

#6880 12 months ago
Quoted from Durzel:

People talk about alligator clips coming off and shorting on something but I can honestly say I've never seen one even close to coming off. Unless you clipped it right on the end or there was tension on the wire, or you just felt like dropping the playfield from a height (why?) I don't think it would be an issue.

The problem is not as much 'random falling off' but people accidentally knocking them off, or around moving stuff around and create shorts

They become a big snag hazzard... or people don't secure them from the start.

Tacking something onto an existing solder log is very easy.

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