(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club

By Caucasian2Step

8 years ago

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  • 11,425 posts
  • 763 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Mikespinball
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3 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #5897 Updated 9.4H manual with corrections from Coyote Posted by Coyote (3 years ago)

Post #8716 Have your picture taken in the translight Posted by Neal_W (1 year ago)

Post #10381 Switching to stereo sound. Posted by hawknole (4 months ago)

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#773 6 years ago

Hi guys, can anyone point me to a topic or help with a problem I just got with my tz? All my magnets do not work except for the right mini pf one. They fail in test mode and game play. Thanks in advance

#797 6 years ago
Quoted from RonB:

I had the same problem with mine when it came in last week. Pretty certain it was fuse F101 on the cpu, it was blown. Changed it and all the mag's have been working fine since.

Thank you very much. Solved the problem. I was very sceptical as in the manual it says F101 is for the lhs flipper and not used. The only mistake you had is that its found on the driver pcb and not the cpu, but I knew what you meant. Thanks again for your help mate

4 months later
#1165 6 years ago

Dicky connector J101?? I think being the main culprit or then Bridge rectifier next

3 months later
#1458 5 years ago

Rottendog anything is not a solution, had cpu, power driver pcbs etc all below par

4 years later
#8303 1 year ago

Has anyone experienced this before. When I go into empty balls sometime the gumball will not turn on only the trough. Other times both the trough and gumball will activate at the same time as per normal. If I get the above fault all I do is exit the operation and then activate it again and all goes well.

I have a lazy flipper issue as well that I'll address which may be connected I don't know

#8305 1 year ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Lazy flipper is usually flipper opto needing cleaned or replaced.
Not sure about your other issues

Thank you will look at opto replacement as have tried new coil, eos adjustment, cleaning of opto etc to no avail. Is it a standard opto? I think I only have to clock optos which may be different

#8309 1 year ago

Thanks Green machine they're the ones. I did notice one thing just now. The flipper works well if my other 5 games are powered off. I gave a reset fix it pcb on this game so do you think maybe I'm having voltage issues with this flipper? Either way I have to address this reset problem as well

#8324 1 year ago

Wow thank you very much to all with suggestions. I think I have some more important information about my issue. I tested further yesterday after playing the game while it was working fine and I got to Litz and several mballs Inc powerball BTW, I decided to leave the game powered on and idle for at least an hour and only tz was on no other game. I came back and had a game and the upper left flipper was weak and terrible. Piano shots were impossible.

I then powered it off for an hour and then on and while playing I switch one by one my other games on and the tz played perfectly. I played another 4 great games. I then left all games on for an hour and went back to tz. The flipper was crap. So I'm thinking something is heating up and failing, but what?

Am I on to something or lost? Thanks

#8326 1 year ago

Oh BTW I haven't tried swapping flipper pcbs. Not sure if I tried low line but would prefer to fix the problem on the game if it's there. Remember I have a resetting issue that is being cared for by the 5v fix it pcb. I've replaced bridges rects and wire links a whole ago and so am a little lost on what else needs to be replaced

#8328 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Your flipper opto board. As I mentioned, swap them. 99.9% sure the issue will swap to the UR flipper.

Thanks will try today and get back to you.

#8331 1 year ago

A quick update and I won't say it's all fixed just yet. More testing needed. But I switched the two flipper opto pcbs over and played a few games without any fault. Then I left the game idle on for a couple of hours and the issue did not appear on either side. Did a few more play tests to be sure.

I then switched them back as originally and play tested OK. Left the game idle again with all my games on for an hour and tested again. No issues. Left idle for another 3 hours and played without a problem. All flippers strong.

My conclusion is maybe a bad connection on the pcb and reseating the plug resolved the issue. But I will continue to monitor this game and keep you posted. Thanks again guys you've been great to me

2 weeks later
#8428 1 year ago

Weak flipper final update, what I did by reseating the flipper pcb did the trick. No problems for a month now thanks guys

1 month later
#8702 1 year ago
Quoted from RoyF:

Posting to "close the loop". I pulled the CPU board. All clean on there. Removed the battery holder and installed a coin cell holder, replaced the ROM with 9.4CH. Noticed I had the blue Phillips cap at C31, so I replaced that while I had the board out. Didn't have an axial cap on hand, so instead I used a 100uf 100v radial cap I had from GPE. Reinstalled the CPU. No resulting change in the 5v readings at pin 32 on the game ROM vs. TP2 on the power driver board.
Pulled the driver board and examined it. No cracked solder joints at the headers or at F113. Solder on the LM323K looked good. BR2 and C5 already tested good a few days ago per PinWiki WPC section 6.16.12. Header pins and connectors look good, as expected given the low "on hours" for this game. So, I decided to remove the LM323K and install a PSU5. A simple job, although the PSU5 units I just received in the mail recently differ slightly in appearance from those pictures I have seen posted on Pinside. Notice there are tiny labels screened on the PSU5 for the 2 pins, one says "in" and one says "out". Orient the PSU5 so the "in" pin connects to the back of the driver board trace that goes to BR2 / C5. And as others have suggested, install the PSU5 to the board with the mounting screws first (discard the old nuts and instead use replacement #6 nuts with split washers to avoid a short circuit, and in my case solder had been worked into the head of the screws making it impossible to use a screwdriver on them, so those screws were replaced with new), then go ahead and solder the PSU5 to the board. I now have 5.07v on pin 32 of the game ROM, so all is good! Trimmer pot on the PSU5 can be used to carefully adjust the 5v to where you want it, best done with J114 disconnected for safety reasons.[quoted image][quoted image]

Is the heat sink still necessary

3 months later
#9046 1 year ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

No credit dot. (period after "free play" or "credit 0" on display indicates there is some error)
Clock operates normally.
all 4 flippers are strong, and can make the ramps, etc.
No cabinet fade - the clock on each side of the cab should be orange, etc.
J120 connector on power driver board not burned. (GI connector)
No missing parts. (watch youtube to get familiar)
Auto launch for multiball works.
All 4 magnets work.
The above are not deal breakers, but affect value.

Add powerball is being recognized via the shooter eject and the subway ramp sensors.
Magnets work on mini playfield

3 weeks later
#9089 1 year ago
Quoted from Piso:

I've started my restoration. My mini playfield sadly has a lot of cracks. I will be clear coating it but first I want to clean it well. Is there a way to clean the dirt inside the cracks and make them less visible on white?
[quoted image]

Cleaning will be difficult. I'd buy a remake if possible.

2 weeks later
#9140 11 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

And Compy's new interactive backboard display https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-mod-twilight-zone-interactive-backboard
Depending upon the condition of your TZ and then level of work you want to do, you may want to consider new cabinet decals as the original artwork wasn't UV protected and the quite often the red colour will be faded or even non-existent.
As to the mods that add during game play, this is probably only the 9.4H ROM and maybe the displays (ColorDMD and interactive backboard)

Link didn't seem to work for me

1 week later
#9178 11 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Building construction - 100% still imperial here in the states. But manufacturing, because it is frequently global: metric.

And many cnc machines are built using metric components like leadscrew etc that running in Metric mode is supposedly more accurate.

1 week later
#9226 11 months ago

Did my own kit but didn't like all the led dots in the playfield, so out a fluro diffuser over the strip.

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7 months later
#10685 3 months ago

Hi guys. I'm wanting to make a mod and use a standard sized led and lamp socket that I can attach/connect to 'the power ' controlled lamp.

I simply tried connecting and found the led on the power seems dimmer and the connected led flickers a little but seems fully lit but pretty much looks like it's always on. I then tried soldering a N4004 diode onto the second lamp socket but same result.

Am I trying to achieve the unachievable or is there something I'm missing in my attempts?

Pls note the lamp socket I'm using is not identical to the one I'm tapping off but does work when I've connected to the gi string so figure it should be OK. But someone might tell me I'm wrong.

#10772 3 months ago

Hey guys would like to share a couple of photos of my Tz topper I'm working on. It is permanently lit but flashes during timed modes. Looks neat in person and the yellow is very close to the translite pyramid. It also has a blue light coming from the front eye but my photo doesn't show it well.

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#10777 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Super dope!
Great job!
Your translite is beautifully lit. LED's? Is so, what shade of white?
Or is that a CPR mirrored backglass?

Thanks, translite all leds except the blinking globes. All leds are cool white and super bright except around twilight zone, these are cool white but quite dim leds.

#10785 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Interesting. "Super Brights"? Do you mean simply 2SMD?

No I think they are only one smd but bright

#10792 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

All right. Got it. From what vendor? Did you buy "blinking" LED's for the blinking bulbs? Are they plug-and-play or do they flicker without an OCD board?

The blinkers are incandescents. I'll try to take a photo of the backboard today or tomorrow. The blinkers were purchased years ago. Led version I foumd on rtbb.com.au who buy stuff from pinball life

#10795 3 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

All right. Got it. From what vendor? Did you buy "blinking" LED's for the blinking bulbs? Are they plug-and-play or do they flicker without an OCD board?

Some photos

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2 weeks later
#10965 74 days ago

Hi guys need advice again. I purchased a used dmd to keep as a spare for my Tz but it looks different to what's in my game. So I'm too afraid to just plug it in to test it. Can someone confirm whether this is compatible or not and if not what manufacturer / system it's from. The dmd with the pink bubble wrap around it is the one I just purchased. Thank you

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#10967 74 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

They're compatible.
Plug and go.
You on;y need to worry if the replacement is a low-voltage LED unit, but in that case, the power plug would not fit.

Thank you. Just tested and it works great

2 weeks later
#11136 54 days ago

I can't remember exactly what I did but think I ever so slightly bent the coil stop bracket to increase the plunger rod travel. Man do those flippers exert some power. Did this many years ago.

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