(Topic ID: 63352)

Twilight Zone Owner's club


By Caucasian2Step

6 years ago



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#5077 2 years ago

Guess there is no definitive answer to this, but does anyone know how loud the clock is supposed to be?

Mine is fairly audible, especially when turning the machine on (though it could just be more noticeable then because I'm not yet playing), but I wouldn't say it was excessively loud. It doesn't sound "broken" loud, is what I mean.

I currently have the standard board in there with its OEM incandescents, the previous owner drilled a couple of holes in the top for cooling. It has been working fine but I've been toying with the idea of getting the Ingo board anyway, and if I can make the clock quieter that would tip me over the edge to pulling the trigger on it I think.

#5079 2 years ago

Yup, I just don't know what I should expect I guess. My TZ is the first HUO pin I've owned, never seen it elsewhere in an environment where you could really get a sense of how loud it was, etc.

I think if I was going to take the clock apart to lube I'd do the whole Ingo board replacement at the same time. My clock is very slightly out of alignment too (the hour hand points more towards 11 than 12 when it's supposed to be 12) so thinking of killing several birds with one stone, so to speak.

#5086 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The clock is loud... especially at startup because there is no other noise. You never hear it it a loud environment but in a silent home you do. During a game play it doesn't really stand out.
The info board is worth it if you are led'ing the game or have a hacked or flakey clock. I had an all original clock and housing for 20 years in home use without ever a problem... but I put an ingo board in and a new clear housing just for athestics when I overhauled my game.
Do not lube your gears. They are not intended to be lubicrated and it is not necessary. Nylon gears do not need lube!

Thanks. You're the first person to say not to lube the gears

I don't have a problem with my clock currently, but it is bone stock (apart from the two ventilation holes that have been added by a previous owner) so I imagine it will fail at some point. My whole game with the exception of the flashers (and that is changing once my Comet order turns up) is LED, so there is probably an argument for doing it for completeness and "preemptive strike" sake.

#5090 2 years ago

Can anyone tell me what bulbs are used on the mini playfield? I'm damned if I can find anything at all in the manual about it. Every other bulb seems to be listed, but the only bulb I can find that it mentions explicitly is the white flasher bulb. The two red ones and the yellow one might as well not exist.

I found a photo of the underside of the mini PF here: http://www.iobium.com/DSCN1529.JPG

Are they all #906 flashers?

Thanks in advance!

#5093 2 years ago

Thanks both.

#5097 2 years ago

What's the consensus on clear (OEM) clock housing vs blue? I'm not totally sold on the blue & rainbow LEDs which most people seem to do, but at the same time the blue housing looks a lot clearer than the OEM "clear" (which is more like misted) housing. Thoughts?

#5103 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Yeah there isn't much consensus. White would be standard but TZ is ground zero of French whoring machines so you never know.

lol that's a brilliant way of putting it.

And yes - consensus was probably the wrong word

#5115 2 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Before you take the Clock apart make sure the hands are at 12 Oclock. This makes it much easier to deal with.

Do you mean remove it when the game "thinks" it's at 12, even when the hands are not? Won't the clock always be at 12 unless you switch the game off mid-mode?

Reason I ask is that 12 o'clock on mine is actually more like 11 o'clock. The minute hand is bang on, but the hour hand is slightly misaligned, halfway between 11 and 12. I'd like to fix that as part of an Ingo/LED overhaul.

#5117 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

It can also be off of 12 in attract mode when it turns into an actual clock.
As far as not being quite right your clock was probably disassembled in the past and the gears got off by a tooth or two. I made the mistake of taking it apart not at 12 the first time and it took me 3 attempts to get the hour hand dialed in after that.
The Ingo board won’t really help here since it’s basically a mechanical issue and it will get as close as it can but priority is given to the minute hand.

Thanks.

My clock is factory at the moment, and will soon be the only thing on it that's still using incandescents. It's working at the moment but keen to give it a preemptive clean & upgrade.

#5121 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

Where is a good place to buy a crystal clear clock housing...out of curiosity?

Would also like to know this. Not been able to find one anywhere

#5131 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Guys, I hate to break it to you, but if your hour hand is not straight up at 0'clock, it means it was reassembled wrong. One if the internal gears wasn't assembled correctly.
You can fix it by taking the clock apart, and following the rebuilding instructions in the manual. Pay attention to the orientation of the gears! When you don't, you get an off-center how hand.

That's what I figured. I've seen videos of other clocks and the hour and minute hand are bang on 12. My clock at 12 looks like davi's above.

I guess there is no way of knowing that you have assembled it back together properly without reassembling the whole thing and connecting it all back up?

Having never disassembled the clock before, can I ask a dumb question - why can't you just take the hands off and put them back on in the correct orientation? e.g. if the game thinks its 12 o'clock and it's really showing as 10:15 or something, couldn't you just switch off the game when it thinks it's 12, take both hands off and then reattach them both at 12? (I figure I'm asking a dumb question because since people talk about gear alignment obviously it's not that simple)

#5139 2 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I prefer something not hand cut. There are so many mods and parts available for TZ so surprised there isn't more options. I guess it's not a big deal. Just thought it would be nice to replace it when I remove the mini playfield to shop.

To be fair, it is almost completely out of sight when the mini playfield is installed in the machine. You'd only see one leading edge of it.

I believe the main reason people get the transparent cover is because it lets the light from the inserts and flasher illuminate beneath.. and the cardboard looks cheap as hell!

#5165 2 years ago

Ideally you should replace both the connector and the header block. If you have LEDs now and it's working then I suppose you could get away without doing it. If it were me it would always be playing on my mind though... burnt connectors are never good.

Pin 10 on that J121 connector is properly scorched, so I'd imagine the male pins are similarly damaged. Is your G.I. working now?

#5170 2 years ago

Why is (was) the doll attached to the Battle the Power ramp? The only time she appears is when earning an extra ball non?

#5173 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyWilliams:

Just want to say thanks. It's fixed and it was as you thought

The connectors or the wires?

#5194 2 years ago

Another vote for CraZyMuffin mini TV mod, it's awesome!

279AF4FA-D5B1-415F-8CDE-19F5F8F5D8A9 (resized).jpeg

#5200 2 years ago

Here is a guide to removing the clock board:
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/tz-clock-instruction-english.html

That guide talks about replacing the clock board in situ. I've never done it before, but it sounds like the clock can be removed completely from the playfield by just disconnecting the cables underneath. It seems to me that this would make the job a lot easier and not risk losing clips etc down holes?

If your clock is already dead on 12 o'clock then make sure you don't fiddle with the gears while playing with it.

#5204 2 years ago

On the subject of the clock - anyone know where I can get a decent NOS or reproduction of the prototype clock face decal? Some I've seen seem to be a bit inaccurate, either chunky numbers or chunky symbols (or both). Would ideally want one that is as close to, if not identical as the original prototype face for obvious reasons.

#5226 2 years ago
Quoted from canea:

Anyone else have a clunky orbit off the auto-plunge? Mine will complete the orbit maybe 50% of the time. More of an annoyance than a problem except after completing wizard mode when the game tries to reload the gumball machine with the correct number of balls. After failing to do that several times, it will give up, and you're left with some weird issues like 2 balls in the plunger lane, etc.
Can the orbit be adjusted for a smoother/faster loop or is this a thing?

Mine is like this too. It seems very easy for it to clip something on the way up, taking most of the momentum out of the ball. The auto-fire plunger I guess has to be very precise for it to consistently go around to the upper left flipper.

#5236 2 years ago

Quick dumb question.. I've got LEDs in both inserts and GI (and now flashers). When I do a test on GI of different dim levels nothing changes at any level. It is the same brightness, and it doesn't turn off.

Should I be selling "Allow Dim Illumination" (currently "Yes", factory default) to No on this basis?

#5238 2 years ago

Thanks.

Is it safe to say that because the LEDs don't turn off at level 1, that I have non-ghosting LEDs and would therefore benefit from the G.I OCD board? (I've heard it doesn't work as well with anti-ghosting LEDs)

I have no ghosting at all already - is it possible without anti-ghosting LEDs?

#5270 2 years ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

This spiral magnet on my TZ is killing me. I put it in a vise and couldn't even get the thing to loosen up. It's about 1/4 too shallow so it catches balls sometimes. Yuck.

No offence, but are you definitely turning it the right way? I did mine up by hand when it went a bit shallow.

#5271 2 years ago

Is there a how-to anywhere for removing the clock from the playfield? I've got an Ingo clock board & clock housing coming soon, and it would seem to make sense to completely remove the clock from the PF so I can clean it, replace yellowed parts as necessary, etc.

I've seen photos of the clock when it's already been removed, as well as disassembly of the clock & gears themselves, but I haven't been able to find a pictorial guide, or video, that shows the process for actually removing it from the PF.

Thanks!

#5273 2 years ago

Well that's embarassing. Thanks

EDIT: I've got a piano mod on mine, which looks like it would obscure a screw or something. Ideally would like to be able to remove the entire clock (and piano, lights, etc) assembly from the playfield and take it inside to work on, e.g. by unplugging connectors underneath the PF rather than the two connectors from the clock board itself, as my plan is to completely disassemble it to clean & replace the innards, the gears, etc. That guide essentially talks about removing it from its secured position but leaving the motor, etc still connected underneath.

EDIT 2: I basically need instructions for how to get to the *start* of this guide - http://www.flippers.be/tz_clock.html

#5277 2 years ago

Ok thanks, that makes sense. The piano was in situ when I bought the pin, fitted by the previous owner. Will have to work out how it removes without breaking it.

#5280 2 years ago

Thanks all, again. This is the one I've got:
http://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-piano-tz-2/

I'll just take it slow on removal

#5286 2 years ago

Your setup sounds weird. When I power on TZ it goes to 12 o'clock (well, more like 11 - I need to resolve that) and then after a period of time it changes to the current time. I can't understand why yours would go to 6 o'clock on startup yet still be correct during attract mode?

#5310 2 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Is it a common issue for the ball to fall of the right ramp when the upper playfield is lit? I'm not talking about the diverter catching the ball. Mine has a magnet and that works perfectly. This is when the ball should go straight across to the upper playfield. Mine is falling off halfway just about all the time unless ball is traveling very slow. The diverter strength seems to be the cause. When it dumps down to let the ball go past, it seems to be shaking the ball off the ramp. You can see it shake the ramp and upper playfield when it slams down.

I can't say I've ever noticed that. Is your ramp secured properly?

#5322 2 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

Always surprised at the number of people who prefer the new PinSound mix.
The original music is just so classic, I would never remove it.
It's a 25 year old pinball machine, it doesn't need Dolby TrueHD Atmos 7.1 lol... but, to each their own!

Amen to that. PinSound on a TZ is sacrilegious imo! The music and sounds are iconic!

#5337 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Couple questions on the Power Playfield...
A. I’ve seen lots of different examples but haven’t found anywhere that states what the proper position for the lamp is. Is there any consensus?
B. Is there a anyone making repo mini-playfields? I asked Mirco about theirs but they don’t sell it seperately and I have no need for the whole playfield. There’s just a small crack in my Power Playfield that while not impacting anything makes me want to have a spare on hand.

I'd like to know the answer to A too.

The lamp seems to be keyed in position - I.e. looking at the top left of your photo where the lamp "arm" goes down, there is a slit which means it can only have a very minimal amount of play - unless people are bending this arm?

(I hope I'm explaining it well enough)

#5351 2 years ago

Is it normal for the trough switch 26 to throw a wobbler every time you remove the balls and put them back in again? When I'm working on my TZ I empty the balls using the menu (9.4H ROM), lift the PF and do whatever, then add the balls to the game one by one whilst using the Gumball Test to fire them back into the gumball machine in the right order (2 regular + PB).

Every time I've done this after a couple of games it throws a "Check Trough Proximity 26" error or whatever that switch is. I cleared this the last time it came up simply by getting the Powerball back into the trough so that the eddy switch sees it again.

I have an upgraded eddy switch in place already that the previous owner installed - I think it's this one: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16533-PP

Any thoughts?

#5354 2 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Does everything work in the game including powerball detection? I've had games throw errors for what seems like no reason. Those errors usually clear after a few games. How often do you remove all the balls? Most of the time I just shove a rag into the ball eject when lifting the playfield.

I've been tinkering quite a bit recently, so have probably had the playfield up several times. I've always removed all of the balls when I've done this.

When the gumball machine has dispensed the Powerball it's seen it. I haven't yet managed to get it in the trough to see if it sees it there (I managed to get Powerball Mania by "mistake" playing yesterday, which put the Powerball back in the gumball machine lol). No other errors are present and the game plays as one would expect.

The last time I saw the "Check Trough Proximity 26" error it got cleared once the Powerball ended up in the trough and the game saw it there, without me doing anything else. That's why I wasn't sure if it could throw this error if for some reason the balls had all been removed at some point.

#5356 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

The 'Trough Prox Switch' error will be flagged if:
(1) The sensor is stuck on when the game knows there are no balls in the trough. (i.e. Multiball, all balls are on field, and that switch is on.)
(2) The game serves you a single ball, and then later that ball is determined to be a Powerball (by shooting Piano or Dead End or Camera).
(3) Reverse of #2 - no indication it's a steel ball, and the game determines it's a powerball by shooting the same tunnel.
For #1, the error is pretty instant. For #'s 2 & 3, it takes a few repeated tries at it before it flags.
Since it's happening when you're emptying balls, likely it's #1 above - you're hitting or the wired connection is loose, getting the switch 'stuck on', you empty balls and the game sees this, and sets the error.

Thanks. I don't think it is appearing as I empty the balls, if that makes sense. I empty the balls, do whatever I was going to do, then add them back in again one by one in order (2 steels, then the Powerball) and use the Gumball Test "Load 1 Gumball" option to fire those 3 back into the gumball machine. I then add the remaining three steel balls which just sit in the trough. I suppose I could just drop all of the balls into the trough and let the game fire 3 back in when it detects there are none in the gumball machine.

At this point I'm fairly certain no error has been registered. I will start a game and then at some point during that game, or a subsequent one, out of the blue I will get a credit dot (no other indication of an error). When cycling the menu at that point I'll get the test report with the Switch 26 error.

I'm fairly certain from your list that it's not 2 or 3 because the Powerball is in the gumball machine at that point. The error appears even when the Powerball is not even in play. The last time the error appeared I just carried on playing until I got the Powerball out of the gumball machine - the game detected it when it was released via whatever switch is up there, then I let the Powerball drain and cycle into play. When it cycled into play the game announced it in the trough and the error was no longer recorded.

Hope that makes sense.. basically the error was cleared without any kind of adjustment to the eddy switch.

2 weeks later
#5471 2 years ago

What are the diagnostic steps to address an erratic slot machine kickout? I don't think my TZ has ever consistently kicked it to the right flipper for a left flipper trap, like you see on some machines & Pinball Arcade, etc, and that seems to be a vital part of the game.

My machine has been waxed recently so it is already quick, but as it is right now I get a mixture of bullets that go SDTM (rare) that are impossible to save, balls that don't even manage to get out of the slot machine hole and drop back in (also rare), and everything in between. There doesn't seem to be an issue with power (other than with the balls that don't make it out) - quite the opposite - but there is almost no consistency. You basically have to treat it like a tennis serve whenever it fires it out.

I've checked the obvious things like welds - all appear fine - and levelling, which is bang on, but haven't yet taken the scoop off to inspect the kicker assembly. Not having much experience of diagnostics (I've never resleeved a coil or checked a spring, wouldn't even know if the spring was good or not, I'm very much an end user with negligible electronics experience) I don't really know what I should be looking for to tweak.

Since the slot machine is so pivotal to gameplay, I feel like I need to sort this out before I do anything else with the machine.... any help gratefully received.

Ideally if possible if someone could tell me what a bad plunger, sleeve or spring actually looks like - that would help immensely.

#5478 2 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

durzel
How's your Slot Machine scoop looking? Solid with no broken welds? Any movement or wobble when the ball flies out? Does the ball sit reliably central when struck? TAF's swamp kick-out is far worse to fettle into working
EDIT: sorry I skim read your post, ignore my weld questions.
I have an old scoop in the loft, can't say how good it is as i obviously replaced it on a previous TZ for a valid reason...
https://mantispinball.com/product/twilight-zone-slot-machine-scoop/
If you buy a new one i'm also after a Blue Clock housing & maybe a new Diverter from them!

The scoop itself looks fine. I haven't yet taken it off to inspect fully but the welds look fine.

Guess I best take it off and get some photos..

1 week later
#5539 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Any tips for exactly how to lube the clock gears? Mine is pretty noisy. When I swapped out the board a little while ago, I tried to apply a little Super Lube to the different gears but it made no difference.

I'd like to know the answer to this too, as I will be disassembling the clock soon.

I've heard people saying that you put "a bit" on the gear contact points, but how much is that? If you've done it once already and it made no difference I guess it wasn't enough?

#5542 1 year ago

Regarding the clock, I'm trying to work out in advance of some parts arriving what I need to do to remove it completely from the playfield.

Is this the screw you need to undo to be able to slide the clock out of the bracket and off?

(Note: This is not my clock - it's an image found on Google)

24766-the-twilight-zone-pinball-machine-clock (resized).jpg

I have a piano mod on mine, with no instructions. Looking at how it is installed it is held down by the red/yellow lamp screws, and it obscures the hole (so I can't get to the screw marked above). I can't see a way of getting to the two lamp screws without getting the clock off, and I can't get the clock off without getting to these screws..... unless I'm missing something obvious.

How would I go above removing the whole bracket, like you see in some photos of the clock off the playfield - e.g. from Marco's website:

index (resized).jpg

Also - does anyone have the part numbers for the red & yellow lights? The previous owner changed mine to LEDs but for some reason they are green and red (and clear bulbs).

Thanks in advance!

#5546 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The bracket is held down by just one screw, and there is a small tab which goes into a second bracket underneath the clock. Your piano is most likely just held on with double-sided tape and friction from the weight of the clock housing. You will need to remove the piano to get to the clock bracket screw

The piano is definitely screwed down, the two screws that secure the lamps are going through the red part of it. I'll get a photo tonight and post it on the thread.

Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

The bulbs? Or the bulb sockets?
I’m almost certain the 2 sockets are: https://pinparts.co.uk/products/077-5026-01
The bulbs are simply a red and a yellow bulb - well, 2 incandescents in red and yellow bulb covers originally. I use frosted lens Comet 2SMD LEDs though (not non-ghosting, obviously! We’ve done that one to death...)

The bulbs. I was trying to find LED bulbs with solid colour lens but was coming up short. I guess two frosted ones that are red and yellow wouldn't be too bad as a substitute. And yes, not non-ghosting of course

Quoted from billsfanmd:

Clock was easy....follow directions with ingo board....I used a light spray of silicone spray at each of the gears....clock is much quieter and all back together. Biggest issue is just taking your time and not losing a couple of the small pieces. I chose the blue case an white leds.

I've ended up buying all of the parts of the clock except the motor and shafts, to basically create a new clock. Figured I'd do this as the clock housing I bought is clear (not hazy like the original one), and my clock shows closer to 11 when it's supposed to be 12 anyway - so was planning to fiddle with the gears.

#5547 1 year ago

Here are the photos of my clock and piano mod as it is at the moment. As you can see it is screwed to the bracket underneath using the original lamp screws/screw holes. The lamps are just inserted into the holes in the piano.

CBA6F3BD-820F-4626-A1ED-A7D8A1A92EC9 (resized).jpeg

226CEBDE-E3B1-4D0B-9EA5-C78AF3467BD9 (resized).jpeg

As you can see the lamp screws are inaccessible.

#5550 1 year ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Offset screwdriver?

Could work, but I fear I'd never be able to get back on again. Knowing my luck I'd lose the screws down the scoop. Also, it seems like that must be harder than its supposed to be (when installing the mod).

Quoted from Coyote:

While it's not recommended - you can try removing the two bottom screws on the back of the clock - this will remove it from the bracket. (Again, it's not recommended, and difficult to get anything but a stubby screwdriver in there..)

Why not recommended out of interest?

Would these two screws ordinarily need to be undone anyway? Or is it the case that if there was no piano mod I could simply unscrew the one that the mod is obscuring, and the whole assembly would unclip?

#5553 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yeah - for a few small reasons -
One screw vs two,
If the screws go in crooked (when re-assembling), it can strip that plastic in the case,
It's a really tight fit, even for a stubby screwdriver.
The wire harness for the piano lamps are connected to the clock's wires - removing JUST the clock wouldn't get you too far before you run out of wire. You'd have to remove the bracket/lights from the piano anyways.

I guess I just need to be able to get to those two lamp screws to remove them. Then I can remove the piano mod, and get to the screw that actually removes the bracket. I suppose if I can loosen the clock so I can actually get access to the screws it would be enough, or an offset screwdriver as suggested before.

I found this PDF - http://www.pinballpro.net/instructions/piano.pdf - which I think corresponds to the mod I have (mine looks like this: http://pinballpro.net/shop/twilight-zone-piano-tz-2/) and it talks about loosening the clock there.

#5558 1 year ago

Thanks, that's very helpful! Hadn't thought of swinging clock up.

2 weeks later
#5571 1 year ago

Planning to take my clock off the playfield this weekend for a rebuild with Ingo's clock board. The plan is to take it completely off and work on it on a bench, rather than on the playfield.

I've bought a full set of gears, clear clock housing, back panel, PETG prototype clock face and clear lens and decal plate kit. I've also got some Superlube to lightly lube the gears. I think the only thing that will end up being taken from the existing clock will be the gear shafts and the motor.

None of the new parts are strictly needed, my clock isn't broken or obviously discoloured, but figured I'd refresh everything "just cause'...

Currently on my clock midnight (when the pin boots) is more like 11 o'clock. The minute hand is bang on 12, but the hour hand is almost on 11. Just for my own understanding of how it is assembled, and so I don't make the same mistake, which gear would be misaligned for this to happen?

Do I have to glue the shafts in like some guides are suggesting? I'm a bit concerned about doing that.

Can anyone think of anything I might be missing before I get started?

Thanks in advance for any help

#5573 1 year ago

Any oil or lube on the shafts? (ha!) or just a light amount on the gear matings?

#5575 1 year ago

Thanks.

Final question - this is my OCD talking now...

I originally bought a prototype clock decal from Marco, and tried to fit it to my Pinbits decal plate. It ended up being very difficult, mainly because it was so sticky, and curled around after I removed it from the backing material, but also because it is smaller than the decal plate, so alignment was difficult. Also the one I received had no holes where the shaft or screws go - but looking at the website that seems to be normal?

I had three attempts at fitting it, and it looked messy with fingerprints visible, etc. I ended up ripping off the decal and throwing it away, and cleaning the glue residue off the decal plate, and then bought the PETG reverse printed version instead (I stupidly only bought one decal from Marco, thinking it would be simple to fit, even though I'm in the UK and shipping cost as much as the parts).

I've received the PETG one which has holes in the right places, the right font for the numbers, etc. The problem I have with it is very minor - but it's preoccupying me - namely that the gold of the symbols is more of an orange, and the symbols themselves are "thicker", if that makes sense (look at the scorpion between 4 and 5). Basically it just looks a bit poorer quality than the decal was, like it was printed in toner-saver mode.

I honestly don't know what to do at this point.. reorder several more decals and have another go, or stop obsessing and just get on with sorting the clock.

#5578 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Original decals DID have the cutouts for the shaft. (Can't verify on the screws until I get home.)
I would go for the decal - before applying it, get some warmish soapy water and wipe the plastic with it. This will prevent the decal from sticking so much that you won't be able to move it around. Then once it's in place, squeegee the decal down into place. Once the water dries, you'll be good. (Same steps as applying a vinyl sticker to a vehicle or something..)

Thanks, you've said what I hoped you wouldn't say, even though I agree. The decal just looks better, even if it isn't the full size of the decal plate and I would have to somehow make the hole for the shaft (scalpel I guess). This isn't a job I wan't to be unhappy about after I've done it, or want to do again any time soon.

#5585 1 year ago

Very nice. Looks in excellent condition, with some nice tasteful mods to boot

#5611 1 year ago

Very true. It's easy to see why something like TAF was so successful and remains popular today. It's flows well.

TZ rewards perseverance with a deeper rule set, as well as pace changes (spirals, mini playfield, etc). But you're right - it's more of a stop/start experience. It can also be pretty unforgiving too, especially if you get a run of bad luck (I'm looking at you pops)

Different strokes for different folks.

My biggest issue with TZ is actually nothing to do with how it plays, it's anxiety that there's so much on the PF that it feels like at any moment something will break.

#5629 1 year ago

Coyote is the man

On topic - I feintly recall seeing some kind of LED strip mod that would illuminate the gumball lane when the light is flashing, but for the life of me I can't find it now... I thought it might be a pretty cool mod, as I keep having to tell people that they can load the gumball because it's just one lone red light flashing when there's all kinds of lights flashing away elsewhere.

Anyone give me any pointers?

EDIT: Answering my own question - it might have been this

#5646 1 year ago

I spent quite a bit of time today disassembling the clock, fitting an Ingo clock board, etc. Even managed to work out how to get it dead on 12 first go.

Connected it all back up, everything worked first time... excellent!

...except, the minute hand opto interrupter is fouling the clear clock decal plate. When this happens the clock makes a nasty clicking noise, like it's skipping a tooth. Needless to say I turned it off quickly.

I pretty much replaced everything in the clock apart from the shafts and E/C rings.

I am now using a PETG clock face which sits behind the clock decal plate. I can only assume the tolerance is so small that this PETG plate is enough to catch it.

I've already got a washer on the back of the shaft (was already there), although I don't think this extends the long shaft anyway, I think it just stops there being any play in the big black gear.

Any thoughts? I've got some prototype clock decals on order, so I can try that, but it seems like I'm missing something here, unless the minute hand opto breaker tolerance really is that precise.

FA0230AD-ADBF-4670-B234-DB74BDA1D87B (resized).jpeg

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#5648 1 year ago

Dumb question but what sort of tool would be best to do this with?

#5652 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

sand paper... hold the piece in your hand and rub it back and forth across the paper on the table.
Suprised it's that tight.. I mean the factory plate has to sit there too. Are you trying to use both the factory plate (with integrated stand-offs) and the new clock face?
Other designs use stand-offs since making the integrated design is harder.

Not trying to use the factory plate. In actual fact when I took the clock apart the standoffs fell out of the clock - so they were separate. I had already bought a Pinbits clock lens and decal plate which also has separate standoffs, but unbeknowst to me I already had something similar. The previous owner must've done something with the clock in the past, because I don't even have the factory plate with integrated standoffs.

The decal that was already in the clock was your standard sticker though, not a PETG plate.

To be clear - the PETG plate is adding about an extra 0.03", which doesn't seem like it should be the difference between it fouling the plate and not?

#5654 1 year ago

Thanks all. For some reason I thought tampering with the minute hand opto interrupter would be a big no-no.. as in I'd be fixing the problem, but not actually dealing with why there is no clearance in the first place. I thought I had perhaps made a mistake somewhere in assembling it.

EDIT: Is there a way I can run the motor without having to put it back in the machine? It's a pain having to reattach everything.

#5656 1 year ago
Quoted from Carbonellie:

Hey Twilight zone friends,
I ordered a clock board from Ingo, and paid, but I hear anything from him, is he on vacation? or a sabbatical? Does anyone know anything about him?

He is on here, try messaging german-pinball

For what it's worth - I sent him a message a few days ago, but didn't receive a response either, so I guess he must be away?

#5657 1 year ago

Another clock question.. it didn't occur to me to oil the gear shafts when I put it back together, I just put a bit of Superlube on the gear matings as suggested in several places on here. Is that enough? I'm paranoid that my clock is going to be louder than it ought to be...

#5660 1 year ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

If you use the grease-version of Super Lube, by nature, the shafts will flow with lubricant by "wicking". Applying grease to the gear teeth will quiet the action considerably, with no real downside. Just don't use too much as it would tend to cake up.
Running the gears dry tends to make the clock very noisy. Noise is friction, friction makes wear, so reducing the noise reduces wear.
Since the wear of the gears is nylon on nylon, everything should technically wear evenly - but will still wear out in time.

Thanks.. I think I understand.. are you saying that by me just lubing the gear teeth where they mate with the Super Lube grease (which is what I've used) is enough for it to wick onto the shafts?

#5662 1 year ago

Thanks, that puts my mind at ease (definitely have an OCD! )

#5667 1 year ago

Mine took a while to arrive too, but he honoured a previously offered deal so I was happy to wait. When he did return from his travels he was very helpful and responsive. A lot of people have ordered from Ingo - he's solid, so no need to worry.

#5677 1 year ago

Does anyone actually make a prototype clock decal or plate for TZ that's worth a damn?

I bought a reverse printed PETG plate version from The Pinball Wizard. The kindest thing I can say about it is that the holes are all precut and in exactly the right places. The print itself is poor quality, the symbols are poorly defined, as if it was printed on an inkjet printer, and the "gold" of the clock is not very good either.

IMG_4160 (resized).JPG

Figuring that maybe a decal would be better, I bought 3 of them from Marco Specialties. First off, the image on the website is different to what I received. The alignment on each of the decals is different, and none of them are centered properly on the opto cutouts...

IMG_9046 (resized).JPG

The decal is larger than the clock plate on all sides, meaning I would have to somehow cut all around the clock, and make the holes for the centre spindle and the screw holes myself somehow. I have no idea how I'm supposed to do that cleanly, even with a scalpel.

Again, the "gold" of the zodiac part of the clock is not gold. I'm not expecting sparkling gold leaf here, but it would be nice if it looked vaguely gold coloured.

IMG_0892 (resized).JPG

I realise pinballs are a niche product, but is this basically the standard of aftermarket parts I should expect? To make matters worse, I've had to wait weeks for these things to arrive, and in the case of Marcos got hit with a £14.07 customs charge (the order was only $29.97). That is my problem living in the UK I guess, but still - it grates.

Or are my expectations just too high?

#5679 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I wouldn't be happy with that either, durzel. I've seen the same sort of thing on reproduction translites and other stuff. Some people seem to not care but it's pretty obvious to me. I would contact Marco and just see what they say. You never know what to expect from places like ebay but I would expect better from Marco.

Well, looking at the packing slip with the Marco order - I'd need to phone him to arrange an RMA, etc. After postage back from the UK it's probably not going to be cost-effective, and my TZ being clock-less for several more weeks, I might as well just cut my losses. Just annoying that I've spent so much on a pretty poor quality product.

I ended up taking the decal & clear plate to a local sign writing shop, who managed to fit it and cut out the holes. They did a good job all things considered, but there are some blemishes and fingerprint marks in a few places that you can see if you hold it up to the light.

IMG_6858 (resized).JPG

The decal is more translucent than the PETG plate, and the centre hole is more.. central, but the reverse printed plate is much more consistent across the whole face. It's just a shame the print quality is so poor.

At this point I'm just thinking maybe life is too short.. but it's hard not to be disappointed.

#5686 1 year ago

Thanks.

I've finished the install now. Decided life is too short to obsess over the decal/plate quality.

ramegoom was right, there is quite a bit you can take off the minute hand opto and it still registers properly. I accidentally sanded off more than I needed to, so the interrupter clears the plate by a good 2-3mm now. Don't know if it would still work with the factory decal though, but not a big concern right now.

The clock is louder than the old one, and makes some odd sounds occasionally, despite me lubing the gears with Superlube, but at least the hand isn't getting stuck now. I'm hoping it'll settle down after a bit of use...

Thanks to everyone for the help!

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#5688 1 year ago
Quoted from Carbonellie:

Very nice Durzel, where did you get that clear clock house?

I emailed the guy who used to sell them at www.tzclockhousings.com - he had some lying around still.

#5691 1 year ago

Yup, you're right. At least the font is correct on the white decal!

#5694 1 year ago
Quoted from thedoctor:

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DC-92
I used the above for a prototype clock decal. Good quality decal, much better than the crap they sell elsewhere.

Do you have any pictures of yours? The image on their website is ridiculously small and poor quality for some reason...

Seems like most of the website selling these are reusing the same images for their product. Marco's one for example has the 31-1751-3P code in the bottom left, and a different (wrong) font as mentioned before, but the ones I received had the right font but no code...

#5696 1 year ago

It is a great game. I'm struggling to fall in love with mine, possibly because it feels so brutal. My slot machine kickout, for example, is like returning a pro tennis serve. Played on another TZ at the weekend that had a much gentler and consistent kickout, and it was quite the revelation. I guess every TZ is a character in its own right.

#5697 1 year ago

I've just noticed something on rewatching back a video of my clock I installed last night...

Looking at the DMD it doesn't appear to register the 30 minute opto, yet it does beep when it crosses it and keeps the time properly. It appears to register it on the slower clock modes.

Is this something I should be worried about?

#5699 1 year ago

Thanks. It did concern me a bit, especially given I sanded down the interrupter.. but the clock functions perfectly from what I can tell, and keeps the correct time, etc. 0, 15 and 45 seem to register on the DMD properly during Clock Test.

Ah well, more playing less hand wringing I think.

#5705 1 year ago

What he said ^^

If you're having to extend the legs that far, you've definitely got two or more of them installed in the wrong holes. You shouldn't have to extend them that far to get to and beyond 6.5 degrees.

#5735 1 year ago

I feel like I'm going mad... or maybe I'm in the Twilight Zone..

Played 2 games earlier, when I hit the lock without it being lit it said "9 more Robots for Ex. Ball and Camera" instead of just "9 more Robots for Camera".

I don't remember ever seeing that before. I haven't changed any of the game rules from factory.

#5737 1 year ago

Dumb question, you mean adjustments that stick and apply to subsequent, completely separate games? The machine had been switched off between games, and it's still doing it.

To clarify, I've always previously seen "9 more Robots for Camera", and only ever got Extra Ball via the lock if I'd lit that door panel. Now, it seems a lock shot gives "X more Robots for Ex. Ball and Camera".

#5739 1 year ago

Thanks. I guess what this means is that I suck. Lol.

#5747 1 year ago

Welcome to the Twilight Zone, Coyote.

I wonder some days whether these ghosts in the machine is part of its charm.

For my part, the last few days, I've had the upper right flipper flasher stick on mid game, and warm the plastic (it's an LED flasher now, thankfully, but it still got warm). Fiddled with the ribbon cables to the aux board which fixed it but why it came on at all I'll never know.

#5757 1 year ago

That is a weird ass looking battery!

#5773 1 year ago

Don't the GI OCD instructions talk about it being mounted at the bottom (along with the LED OCD one) ?

#5781 1 year ago

Hateful things, a really bad design. I've got the same problem with a Funhouse that I was installing LEDs on, so thanks for the video which shows the exact same problem & clarifying that it just needs an immense amount of force, far more than seems logical or safe.

Bizarrely the button on the Funhouse just pretty much fell out when pulled, no force was required at all, so I figured I was doing something wrong when it just wouldn't go back in with the same effort.

I guess it's best to remove the spade connectors before doing this?

1 week later
#5814 1 year ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Looking to 'upgrade' my Powerfield lamp.
Does anyone have any experience with this?
Looking at:
45Eur - https://pinballmod.com/producto/the-lamp/
or
$164.99 (+ UK customs tax charges) - http://www.pinballdecals.com/TwilightZoneLampPage.html
I could buy 4 of the former for just 1 of that latter! The PD one does look nice, but very expensive...

Stop reading my mind damn you!

I've been looking at exactly the same thing. The former is also on eBay if you're interested, for the same price.

As Coyote said - you'd need to get the lamp sockets riveted to the first one, not sure if that's something you're happy to do (I couldn't do it). Big price difference between the two though, there's really nothing to justify the $164.99 cost of the latter other than it being a price some people seem apparently willing to spend. No way is that even remotely close to the parts cost.

3 weeks later
#5879 1 year ago

Can anyone tell me what the "Insert Main" is in GI? In various GI tests there are:

Mini P.F. + Insert
Clock & Insert
Insert Main

I have no idea where on the playfield "Insert" is, and the manual doesn't even cover GI bulb locations.

#5881 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Insert = Backbox
Three strings up there. 'Insert Main' is the main, all-encompassing string.

Ok I'm an idiot. I was hunting all around the playfield wondering why "insert main" didn't illuminate anything.

Also, is it normal for GI not to dim at all in test mode (with Adjustment 25 "Allow GI dimming" set to YES, I know that affects test mode too) when using LEDs? I'm using Comet LEDs, possibly non-ghosting in all of the GI. It turns off and on no problem, but dim levels do nothing. Running 9.4H.

My friend's Funhouse strobes something fierce with LED GI when you go down to low dim levels, so at least I know something is happening with it.

#5883 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I'm not an expert with LEDs. I just know what I like.
However, non-ghosting may try and cancel out the dimming, removing the flickering effects.
Yes, in test mode, with the option 'allow dim GI' set to no, the Test will still dim them.
If you're not getting any dimming - try putting an incandescent in a socket - then your Zero Cross on the power driver board isn't functioning properly.

Damn, that doesn't sound like an easy fix.

Just popped an incandescent into the right slingshot and that too did not dim at all on any level.

Any idea what my next test should be? All the GI works, none of it appears to dim.

#5891 1 year ago

I think there's some confusion here..

My Gi doesn't dim with even an incandescent bulb inserted in one of the GI sockets. It stays at maximum brightness on all settings (but does turn off correctly)

Seems that I need to fix that before I look at installing a GI OCD board.

#5896 1 year ago

While I remember, don't forget to oil and lube your clocks gents...

Before:

After:

The first video was taken after I rebuilt the clock, and put a tiny amount of Superlube - per guides - on the gear matings (no oil on the shafts). It wasn't enough. Whilst the clock wasn't obnoxiously loud, it made an sporadic noise that you can hear in the video which to me sounded worse to me than a constant grinding.

The second video was after I completely disassembled the clock again, put a small amount of sewing machine oil on all of the fixed shafts, and used a small brush to apply lube to all of the teeth on all gears. The difference was very noticeable.

EDIT: The most obvious difference is around 1:03 in the first video, and 0:16 in the second one - as camera is in the same place.

#5914 1 year ago

Is there actually any downside besides cost for going with the 3 magnet version?

I can't say that I miss not having a third magnet, but multiball grabbing all three balls sounds kinda cool.

#5916 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Yes, I have both in my game. OCD & GI OCD. but the latter won't do any good of the triacs aren't drinking at all..

Yup, this is a zero-cross issue.
i'm on my phone*do I cant get too detailed, but the GI transistors only turn on when the AC wave crosses 0v to prevent high current draws. There is circuitry on the PDB that detects when the AC crosses the 0v level. Sends this info to the MPU, which then figures if it needs to start fixing on a specific GI string.
With out that signal, the software won't ever try to do any dimming.

I haven't been able to get to the bottom of this, and I'm at the point where I'm even struggling to get someone out to actually diagnose the problem conclusively. I don't own a scope, I don't know where the traces begin and end, etc. Basically I need a professional.

The option I'm faced with at the moment is removing the power board from the game and getting it sent off for inspection and getting whatever might be problematic (traces, diodes, bridge rectifiers etc) repaired or replaced.

Not having removed a board before I'm very intimidated by this idea, but will do it if I can be sure that the problem is localised somewhere to the power board.

Is the ZC etc stuff all done there?

(sorry for my newbie language)

#5937 1 year ago

Ingo's board is pretty distinctive because it has numerous red status LEDs along the top of the PCB (even if they are disabled you can see where they are)

2 weeks later
#5986 1 year ago

LCD all the way. Also DotsXL is perfect for TZ.

#5989 1 year ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

What he said - for all games!

Yup.

Give me DotsXL or give me death!

#5991 1 year ago

Looking at a photo I took of the bottom of my playfield a while ago, I can see that connector - I think - but no idea what it connects to, or even if it's connected at all vs just hanging around. I'm not in front of my machine at the moment so can't give a more authoritative point of view.

Here is mine (excuse the poor quality):

argh (resized).jpg
1 month later
#6079 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The original lamp board light design works explicitly on AC voltage because the diodes make one set turn on one side of the wave.. the other on the second half. (the diodes there make that happen). Check the AC voltage and I guess continuity on the board.
I ordered the ingo board when I went LED.. and am very happy with it.. even tho my original board and clock were still fine.

+1

I bought and fitted the Ingo clock board even though my clock was working fine. Mainly it was because everything else in the game was LED.

It's a brilliant bit of engineering, and is as plug and play as it gets.

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#6101 1 year ago

The part number is A-16056 according to the manual.

I haven't been able to find anywhere that sells it in a quick search just now.

Marco's website seems to be down at time of writing.

Sorry that's not much help.

#6104 1 year ago

Yup. Looking at it, a Funhouse wireform with most of it chopped out and bent to shape would work.

#6125 1 year ago

Extra Ball button must be stuck on. LITZ cheat requires it to be held in for 5 (?) seconds, and that's the only thing that would trigger LITZ straight away.

#6130 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Not cool to use the 9.4CH ROM. (I realize it was in the machine already) The existence of that ROM which was made specifically against Ted Estes’ wishes is the reason there were never any further TZ updates. I’ll see if I can hunt down 9.4H

Well said.

1 week later
#6169 1 year ago
Quoted from Alaskanzen:

Hello,
Does anyone have or know where I can buy a replacement clock face (plate to which the decal is attached). Thanks!

Pinbits sell a clock plate kit. It doesn't have the standoffs mounted to the face like the OEM one does though (and it is currently out of stock): http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_2&products_id=160

In other news.. the other day I switched on my TZ after perhaps 2 weeks of it being sat idle (not sure if that's relevant or not), and the white gumball flasher came on and stayed on. A few seconds later it switched off, and then behaved as normal.

Something I should look at or just another day in The Twilight Zone? I swear with stuck flasher randomness and "Check Trough Proximity Switch 26" (shout out to check_switch_26) it feels like it is haunted.

#6177 1 year ago

Or go one better and get Ingo's board. Then you can do the whole RGB LEDs thing if you want, and never have to worry about the clock failing again.

Granted the cost of an Ingo board is significant if your OEM one still works, but if you're taking the clock apart I'd just install it and forget about it. It's a brilliant design that far exceeds the reliability of the OEM board.

Got nothing to gain by posting this - I've already bought and fitted one ages ago, just a very happy customer.

5EEEDB1E-DA6F-4EA8-AAC0-9ACA41C62299 (resized).jpeg

#6179 1 year ago

That's interesting.. I have a GI OCD board waiting to go in my TZ but I have to get the power board repaired first (my GI doesn't respond to dimming at all in test, even with an incandescent bulb in, and option 25 "Allow GI dimming" on).

Does it make a big difference then?

#6188 1 year ago

My board took a little bit of time to arrive too, coming from Germany to UK, so I'd imagine there would be a bit of a delay going to the States. As has been said though german-pinball is solid so no need to worry at all.

#6190 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Thanks, Ingo. I shot you a pm but no big deal. I don't want to be a bother over an led. I can wait and no stranger to long shipping delays. Funny thing is I thought I received it yesterday when I saw a small overseas package in my mailbox. Turned out to be some cheap, little thing I ordered for my daughter off Amazon 6 weeks ago.
Love the clock board! It's been working perfect. Wish I could say the same for the trough proximity sensor. Dang thing is always finicky.

Ahhhh the old "Check Switch 26 Trough Proximity" error. Hello old friend.

#6195 1 year ago

I have this one - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16533-PP - which is supposed to be an upgrade, with a twisted cable, and I still get the error from time to time. As said soldering is the only long term solution.

#6204 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

This used to throw me off too. There is a flasher under the plastic immediately to the rear of the upper right flipper. It’s just a blue plastic under the “gum ball “ sign

This flasher is also known for locking on and melting the plastic above it. Quite why Williams flashers lock on when failing is a mystery to me.

#6206 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

It’s the transistor failing on the board, not the flasher itself. Coils lock up and melt the same way.

Fair enough. I meant more than the failure condition for a flasher is that it fails on, melting plastic if left unresolved. I don't know if failing on is something that electronically just happens?

The upper right flipper flasher on TZ is notorious for this.

IMG_5679 (resized).JPG

#6210 1 year ago

B&W TZ looks awesome!

#6212 1 year ago

No, it's not normal. Presumably you've tried a different bulb? LED flasher or incandescent?

#6215 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

You know, I may be wrong but I could have sworn that my light pole is tied into an insert not a flasher.

For a moment I thought he meant the street lamp that you often see by the pop bumpers, as that is definitely tied to an insert, but that's a mod.

I believe he means the lamp above the mini playfield which has a flasher and two GI bulbs in it.

The flasher in that works like any other. If it's dim I guess it could be a transistor (Q38) problem but that one handles both flashers so I don't know if it would affect both?

1 week later
#6247 1 year ago

I would stick him in the base of the cabinet, right at the back.

#6261 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The powerball isnt supposed to end up on the miniPF. The game should detect it and dump it out via the diverter

You've got me thinking now..

During Powerball Mania the powerball is in the gumball machine, since that's what starts it.

If just the Powerball is in play then the game won't raise the diverter to let it onto the mini-PF. The exception to this would be of course would be if it doesn't know it's a Powerball (the infamous "check switch 26 trough proximity" problem)

During regular multi-ball the powerball could be somewhere on the playfield, if it's already out, I'm not sure what happens there. Is the mini-PF even available during multi-ball (i.e. all balls diverted) ?

#6266 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Yes the miniPF is available, although the PowerBall shouldn’t be allowed up there. Occasionally it sneaks past - that happened to me yesterday. The ball will just drain

If the Powerball is amongst the other balls during multi all how would the switch leading to the mini-PF know which ball hit it?

2 weeks later
#6379 1 year ago

My TZ sounds awesome with Flipper Fidelity speakers, but granted the amp is not really up to the job of driving them particularly well. I don't feel like I'm missing anything though, and certainly wouldn't want to change the music and SFX for non-original ones.

#6389 1 year ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Hey TZ fans - I have a strange issue or maybe I don't. I'm not really sure. My game plays great. I have a newer Rotten Dog MPU installed with the remote battery pack and fresh batteries. About every 10 to 15 power ons the game reports "factory settings restored". The funny thing is my settings are all still there including free play. I just ignore it and continue to play on until it show up the next time. Is this one of the undocumented features????? Anybody else seeing this?

Someone reported this exact same thing on the UK pinball forums this week, albeit a different WPC machine. Rotten Dog board in that too.

The consensus was that they eat batteries.

If you take your batteries off you'll probably find they have very little charge remaining.

1 week later
#6426 1 year ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Finally got my TZ all shopped out. Tear down, clean, polish, and wax. LED treatment, new balls, and no credit dots! Next up ColorDMD. So nice to play a fresh shopped pin especially when it's a TZ!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Could be just my eyes or camera bloom but those LEDs look super bright, particularly the slings and the mini-playfield street lamp.

#6448 1 year ago
Quoted from dts:

Have any of you guys swapped out the autoplunger solenoid for a stronger one? Mine seems to struggle to shoot the ball around sometimes. The flipper doesn't need a rebuild.

Mine was quite inconsistent and it was fixed completely by cleaning the coil plunger. Mine has gotten a bit gunked up and as a result it wasn't returning back to idle position quickly, compromising subsequent firing.

Cleaning it up completely fixed the problem and every single ball now goes around.

I'd give that a try as a first port of call.

1 week later
#6459 1 year ago

I'm fitting new black leg bolts and have run into a problem. My TZ always seemed higher than the 2 other pins next to it, the lockbar was higher and the rears were maybe an inch from being fully extended to get to 6.5" slope. My OCD was making me want all 3 pins to have a consistent profile.

Looking at it there are metal plates all around and each leg has 3 holes available. I was using the bottom 2 on all corners. The metal plate blocks access to the top hole, I have no idea how you're supposed to use it without taking the plate off.

What am I supposed to do here so I can use the top holes on the front and back, so I can lower the pin down? Those brackets look like they're supposed to be there so I'm reluctant to take them off, but at the same time I don't know why they're like that when they block access to one of the holes?

All 4 of my legs are the same height incidentally, and presumably the standard B/W ones.

Thoughts please Thanks in advance.

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#6461 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Those plates are not factory, they're protectors added by previous owner.
Youll have to unscrew them and then re-screw them into place so that the holes you want to use are.. Well, usable.

Simple as that, lol. Thanks coyote

#6464 1 year ago

If I'm not mistaken he is referring to the plate that the decal is stuck to, not the PETG plate with the decal on that is sold in a few different places.

donniedarko I assume you mean the bit that has 4 standoff holes in each corner? I wasn't able to find this part anywhere when I rebuilt my clock, but Pinbits sell a kit with separate standoffs which works well.

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_2&products_id=160&zenid=801112576e9d75853242d89aab4f69c3

#6466 1 year ago
Quoted from DonnieDarko:

Yes, this is the piece I'm looking for. Mine was heat damaged so I was looking for a replacement. Seems hard to find the part on it's own.
Thanks for the link. I've been scouring the usual traps to try and find the piece on it's own so this one looks good. Odd that none of the big retailers keep the part, but good that someone has it.

It is not identical to the OEM piece, but it is the closest thing I could find. The OEM bit - as you know - has the standoffs integrated into it. The Pinbits one has them as separate tubes that you need to align over the holes when you put the screws through. A bit fiddly when you're trying to put the screws in but the end result is pretty much identical, and the Pinbits kit has the benefit of being crystal clear rather than cloudy like the OEM part.

#6467 1 year ago

Anyone know what sort of post fits properly into this hole, to fix the problem of balls falling out of the rocket ship after the skill shot?

A search turned up a previous fix - http://www.retroblast.com/articles/modzone_3.html#Bounce - but this webpage doesn't work anymore. I believe the suggestion is to remove one of the screws that secure the ball guide and instead install a post with a rubber on. I bought a Mini Post 1-7/16 but it didn't fit properly, so I'm a bit stuck.

Screenshot 2018-10-22 12.10.45 (resized).png

Anyone done this fix and can share a photo of what they did?

#6469 1 year ago
Quoted from Marvin:

standard post like at the top of inlane/outlane dividers works. no rubber on it though

You mean like this? https://pinparts.co.uk/products/mini-metal-post-10-32-with-threaded-fitting-nut-fastening

This screws in with a nut underneath the playfield doesn't it? The screw that's currently in the guide is one that tapers to a point and is just screwed into the playfield I think.

#6472 1 year ago
Quoted from Scotty_K:

You are correct; that screw needs to have a T-nut below the playfield in order to work.
Here's what you should get:
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-716-tall-metal-post-with-cutaway-with-wood-screw-base.html
I've done this mod on my TZ and it works perfectly. I can post a picture when I get home from work today.

Thanks

#6478 1 year ago

Excellent, thanks I'd rather it be consistent than randomly falling out to be honest.

How do you screw that in when there is barely clearance there?

#6502 1 year ago

I've got a Flipper Fidelity sub and speakers in my TZ and think it sound fine? The only real criticism I'd have is that if you crank it up too high the little amp can't really take it and it starts to cut out.

I keep hearing about PinSound but unless you can have identical music and sounds I don't think I'd go for it. The TZ music and sounds are iconic.

Marvin said it better than I could.

1 week later
#6532 1 year ago

Very simple question...

Is there an easy / recommended way of removing the slot machine scoop from underneath the playfield? I removed mine yesterday to install a scoop light, and pretty much everything got in the way of it.. the subways, the switch next to the scoop. It took me a good 5 minutes to actually remove it, and I scraped the outside of the subway plastics doing it. I ended up thinking there must be some easier way of doing it short of unscrewing everything in that area...

#6537 1 year ago
Quoted from merccat:

I just pointed an led towards the back of the scoop outside of the subway since it’s clear. Works fine.... i suppose you could get a bendy led if you wanted to get all up in the scoops business, but it’s not necessary.

Nice, I hadn't even thought of that. I followed the mod instructions somewhat blindly.

#6559 1 year ago

Don't bother replacing the cardboard, get the plexiglass (or whatever it is) that you can get for it instead.. I think it might be listed on here somewhere. The cardboard looks ugly and it's not as if it's trivial to change it after you've put the mini-PF back in..

2 weeks later
#6608 1 year ago

Important to get that screw right as the ball will naturally bobble around the rubbers at the bottom when it's trying to come out, and any uneven level will mean it gets stuck there.

#6619 1 year ago

Or run wires alongside the ones that already have to go below the playfield and connect to GI somewhere nearby underneath?

#6653 1 year ago
Quoted from Marvin:

agreed, this stuff is excellent. but buying something that's not needed is silly when those funds can be put toward things that are needed, or another machine. I'm sure someone, broke one, once, buts its a very uncommon issue.

You'd have to be really determined to break that scoop I feel. As has been said already the plunger spring isn't that strong by design, I certainly can't think how you would fire it into the scoop metal at anything like the same speed as the flippers do with the slot machine.

#6664 1 year ago

No it's not typical. The ball never leaves the playfield on my rocket launcher.

1 week later
#6684 1 year ago

Photos would help. Don't know why adding Cliffys to the right would push it to the left, unless they've been fitted wrong and even then I'm struggling to visualise how as they fit under star posts, not mini PF mounting points?

#6688 1 year ago

Had a look at mine and the plastic is a good 5mm or more from the side of the cabinet. Don't know if these photos will help..

F8F51194-4377-4C1F-8757-0EA7C2E1506A (resized).jpeg

Maybe worth checking this screw and comparing it to yours?

C90C44B6-C062-446D-87F2-573D84EE3057 (resized).jpeg

#6696 1 year ago
Quoted from sgorsuch:

Hello all, I have spent the better part of the day reading older posts with TZ clock errors and issues , but have not yet found the same symptoms my clock is having. I had a credit dot and report was broken clock. I would go thought the clock test mode and everything is fine. I recently replaced the batteries-which have been removed from the CPU board and found leakage on the battery holder.I cleaned this up and installed new batteries- now the credit dot is gone- and no test report errors. However the clock does not keep time in the attract mode. The goes forward and backward throughout the game, and will advance to the correct time of day in attract, but stays at this position.Any thoughts ? Thanks
Correction: The credit dot has returned, with the report of clock is broken. I turn the game off and restarted and the credit dot is gone ,until it goes into the attract mode.

Battery acid leakage can cause all kinds of problems. If you didn't completely remove the board and inspect it closely for damage I would presume that simply cleaning the visible damage won't be sufficient.

#6704 1 year ago

Installing Ingo's board is easy. I consider myself pretty useless when it comes to pinball maintenance, and I too put off taking the clock off the playfield and apart for a few weeks - but in the end it was a lot easier than I thought.

The language of the manual is very inscrutable, things like "Insert stub end of shaft into center hole of back panel, while aligning either of the two opposite, shorter teeth on smaller diameter gear of 03-8823 with remaining shaft" basically means "line up one gear with the shaft of another".

I wrote up a mini guide here, for what it's worth.

My clock board was actually working but I wanted LEDs (rainbow specifically) ones in my clock, and taking it apart wasn't such a big deal when I realised that I would only ever have to do it once after using this board.

#6720 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The light sockets must be replaced to put LEDs in. Unless you put in something with diffusers or light spreaders... you'll get hot spots in the lighting. Not sure if the half-wave lighting design of the board will lead to LED flicker.. possible.
Second, you'll still be stuck with optos that are NLA and replacements require ugly hacks
Third, you'll still be stuck with the compromise design of the original board that lacks switch isolation for the optos leading to high risk failures and of course the challenges of switch matrix troubleshooting if that becomes an issue.
Where as with the ingo board, all of those things are addressed... you get easily replaced parts, easy lighting options, and new features like the test features.
In the era of paying $40 for a plastic toy... the replacement clock board is the best money you can spend on your TZ fore reliable future operation.

Brilliantly put, particularly the last sentence.

For what it is, and what you get for the money, it's easily worth it.

#6730 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I was wondering what pitch people have on their machines? I have my leg levellers at the highest possible point at the back and lowest at the front and still the Playfield is at 6.0 degrees
Is that normal for this machine and if not is there such a thing as extra long levellers?

You could be using a bad combination of holes. The TZ cabinet has three leg holes on both ends, if you were using the top 2 at the back and bottom 2 at the front I would imagine it would be impossible to get to 6.5.

I have mine at 6.5 and there is probably a good 1/2 to 3/4 inch left on the bolt thread.

Edit: Guy above beat me to it

#6746 1 year ago

Check the CPU ROM is seated properly. I presume you removed this to clean it up?

1 month later
#6801 1 year ago

It's easier to think of the lock area as another trough.

Because it's the only place on the playfield besides the gumball machine where balls can stay, and there's 5 silver balls anyway, basically the game knows that it isn't going to affect gameplay to leave a ball up there between games.

I would hazard a guess that if you ended up with two locked balls up there at the end of the game that it might kick them both out so that you've got at least 2 balls in the bottom trough.

#6808 1 year ago

Great review

3 weeks later
#6866 11 months ago

People talk about alligator clips coming off and shorting on something but I can honestly say I've never seen one even close to coming off. Unless you clipped it right on the end or there was tension on the wire, or you just felt like dropping the playfield from a height (why?) I don't think it would be an issue.

#6869 11 months ago

I would have a preference for Molex connectors where possible too. A lot of people, myself included, don't have the skills or confidence to start crimping and working out what type of connector is needed, wire configuration etc though.

Also, what do you do about mods that clip to GI?

#6874 11 months ago

I stand by my previous comment. I can count on no hands the number of times an alligator clip has actually fallen off wherever it was attached to. The spectre of clips falling off and shorting on something is rather overdramaticised.

Obviously given the choice I would always choose a Molex connector, but I'm not going to lose sleep over the odd croc clip here or there.

Also I would dispute that every owner of a machine would need (or indeed want) to break out a soldering iron to be able to own a machine. Plenty of people just want a machine that plays, and call out people where needed for maintenance.

1 week later
#6933 11 months ago

Is it tricky to replace the ramp?

#6936 11 months ago

Hmm, you can't just pull through the cables for the flashers through holes in the playfield?

#6939 11 months ago

Thanks. That sounds beyond me

#6942 11 months ago

$430 lol

1 week later
#6956 11 months ago

Was going to say.. can't think why the gumball area would need a plastic protector, balls aren't flipped up there, they are just ejected from the machine and roll down.

3 weeks later
#6987 10 months ago

Is it possible your existing translite is non-standard?

1 week later
#6996 10 months ago

Is that even a thing on TZ? Never heard of it happening.

..that melted flasher plastic on the other hand, that's classic TZ.

#7003 10 months ago
Quoted from BenB:

I am new to the club here as I just picked up my TZ this past weekend. The 3 AA batteries are still currently PCB mounted. I’ve read mixed reviews with the clock and certain batteries. I’d like to know what most of you guys are using? Coin style, remote AA Packs, or ?.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Clock is fine with normal batteries. It won't remember the time if you use NVRAM, which some people substitute for batteries, which means it won't tell the current time during attract mode but will otherwise work as normal.

I use a remote holder and lithium batteries (less likely to leak). Belts and braces!

#7006 10 months ago

I replaced my clock board even though mine was working (previous owner had drilled holes in the top of the casing which probably helped).

Ingo's board is a "fit and forget" mod, well worth doing, you can give the clock gears a lube too if it's particularly loud. It's also the only board that works with GI OCD to my knowledge.

#7017 10 months ago
Quoted from Pesmerga:

Thanks for your answer, I was thinking about that because I have seen 2 TZ and both of them with wood "cracked" on the magnet spiral on the mini pf (but also on the main pf)!

Perhaps that is more related to general humidity conditions. TZ doesn't have any magnets on the main playfield except 2 or less typically 3 at the spirals, and they are not underneath the wood so wouldn't affect it.

2 weeks later
#7069 9 months ago

Looks good.

Not that I suppose it matters hugely but one of the bulbs is out from looking at the video.

2 weeks later
#7132 8 months ago

Maybe try using 9.4H instead and your problems might go away?

If I recall correctly "Camera + Extra Ball" is a setting that adjusts itself based on how well players have been playing the game? I seem to recall the lock shot being Camera only when I first started playing, but changed to Camera + Extra Ball when the game realised how bad I was at the game

In other news...

On my TZ I installed some yellow plastic protectors for the outlanes, slingshots, rocket and slot machine that were made by a guy in the UK (very cost effective compared to most places). Very happy with how it came out..

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_955 (resized).jpg

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_95b (resized).jpg

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_95a (resized).jpg

His name is colywobbles if anyone is interested in getting some I don't benefit in any way from the recommendation, just thought I'd pass it along.

#7146 8 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

It is, but you really need to be careful removing the rom without a rom tool. Lift each side 1mm (1/16 inch?? ) at a time. Be careful toward the end as it will start to come out easier. If you lift one side to much compared to the other, you'll bend all the pins. You'll likely bend them a little, but it's easy to bend them back. Too much pressure on one side, and you can bend them so much that they'll break as you try to bend them back. Patience is key.
I use a small flathead screwdriver to lift either side, but I've heard others argue against that method. I've swapped many roms without an issue.

Echoing this. I changed the ROMs in my TAF, and am generally careful, but I still managed to bend the pins on 2 of the 3 chips I removed, and one pin actually came off in my hand as I put the chip down.

Definitely go with the chip puller.

#7148 8 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Thanks! Where can I buy a chip puller?

Something like this would be safer:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-ICE

I should say that I haven't bought or used a chip puller myself, I'm just relaying my experiences of trying to do it carefully with a mini screwdriver - as others suggested I should do.

The chips will probably be quite stiff in their sockets, particularly if they've never previously been removed. It would be easy to apply too much twisting force on a screwdriver and bend some pins. As said, I did it on two chips - which fortunately I did not need to keep, and I consider myself to be very careful.

This was my actual chip afterwards...

IMG_2432 (resized).jpeg

#7154 8 months ago

And make sure you actually get the pins of the new chips in the holes before you push it down. It's actually easy to push it down thinking that the pins are in the socket holes, but are actually over the edge of the socket.

Again, this is what I did with my TAF, as I didn't remove the boards from the backbox to do it, so I was already reaching uncomfortably.

Made a horrible buzzing noise when I turned it on, but no damage done.

1 week later
#7197 8 months ago

Bit of a speculative question this really. When I bought my TZ it had a stack of mods already fitted, as is de rigueur for the pin.

One of them, a Gumball light, was (it's currently disconnected because it was spliced in with a Robby robot wiring, which is faulty) connected to the DC motor board at the bottom right of the playfield.

From looking at the schematics the connectors it was using give 12VDC, which seems high for LEDs unless I'm missing something obvious.

I'm trying to work out why it might have been connected there, i.e. if there's something special about that board in terms of the 12VDC and in particular when it provides it. I guess it's related to the clock which makes me wonder whether it was doing something unique when the clock was in motion, but I don't think it was.. it seemed to just be on all the time.

Would this be a logical - or as logical as any other - place to pull 12VDC from under the playfield?

The light seemed to be an ever changing RGB LED (or LEDs), for what it's worth.

61635733-40B4-4AAC-8F9C-989DFFB107E3 (resized).jpeg

81DECA32-55F7-4B79-8829-7F884607E798 (resized).jpeg

#7200 8 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Go to a second hand shop and find a 12v power supply with a minimum of 2amps. Get the kind with the box in the middle, not the box at the plug style. Cut the plug and splice it into the power supply post-switch. Then cut the power end and you now have 2 amps of mod power without taxing your boards. You can now add led strips and whatever else your heart desires. Put all your mods on this line. I've done this to all of my older machines. Take power from the wall, not the boards.

I'll probably end up doing this, but at the moment the only things using 12v in my TZ are - as far as I know - ColorDMD, a TV mod and this gumball light mod. Everything else is either clipped on or connected via Molex plugs in series with inserts, GI, etc.

I've already done something similar to what you're suggesting on my TAF using a mod power board supplied by a guy here in the UK:

IMG_2821 (resized).jpeg

#7202 8 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Plus the opto boards, and the 8-Driver board. There's a LOT of draw on that power board back there. Tax it as LEAST AS POSSIBLE.

Do you mean the DC motor board at the bottom right of the playfield? Or the power board in the backbox?

I only have a Gumball light thing plugged into the DC motor board (not by me). I wouldn't be offloading the opto boards and 8-Driver board off the main power board surely?

#7211 8 months ago

Yup, same. Have got one in my TAF, which powers my ColorDMD, flipper button LEDs, cloud topper LEDs and mini TV mod, and have bought another one for my TZ.

Even if some of those things don't draw a lot of power it's nice to know that it's offloaded from the main boards. applejuice's mod has its own fuse which means if one of those mods starts playing up then the worst its going to do is take that out, rather than other functional stuff on the main power board.

Plus it's a lot cleaner than daisy chaining different things off the power connectors on the main board.

#7235 8 months ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I have one more issue with this TZ. The trough sensor has been stripped off, including the bracket that holds the sensor in place. Does anyone know of a place that sells the bracket? I can’t find one. I could probably make one but lack the tooling to do it.

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=527

It's unobtainium as far as I know. You'd probably have to approximate something yourself unfortunately.

#7243 8 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I just bought one from Marco, along with an additional replacement sensor

Whoops ok.. I looked at Marco and it was showing out of stock, unless I looked at the wrong part number.

2 weeks later
#7267 7 months ago